As for the Ag paints, I prefer Van Sickle it seems to have a bit better
UV resistance but they are pretty close. I personally don't think any of
them are much better than good 'ol rust-o-leum unless you use a
hardener. The rust-o-leum seams to dry slower though. For the best of
both worlds you can use the hardener meant for Valspar Ag paints with
rust-o-leum, or likely any oil base enamel, if you don't mind working
with the isocyanates. Going that way lets you get a custom color as many
places carry the rust-o-leum bases and can custom tint them.

Personally I would rather avoid the risk of the hardeners and just deal
with repainting the item after a couple of years if needed. If I really
need a hard finish I will take it to a body shop where they are set up
to deal with it. Alternatively I would take it to a powder coater, but
we don't have anyone close by in my neck of the woods.

A good primer makes all the difference in the world, as does using a
phosphor etch if not using a self-etching primer. This seems to really
help with both adhesion and rust resistance.

One trick that I have used while avoiding the hardeners is to either
bake the enamels in the over, or use heat lamps or the sun on larger
pieces to get the surface temperature up. It seems that by curing them a
bit faster they get to the hardness level that you don't see for a
couple of months otherwise. Oh, and the spray bombs of rust-o-leum seem
to take almost 10 times longer to get nice and durable in comparison to
the pints, quarts, gallons. I suppose it is all of the extra solvent?



On 03/07/2017 08:05 AM, Dave Cole wrote:
> They do have some quality items, but you pay for them.
> 
> You are revealing your age just a little.  :-)
> I've been around the block a few times as well.
> 
> Regular oil based Rustoleum paint is good for at least 20 years outside 
> if done with a primer and at least one heavy topcoat. But the surface 
> has to be properly prepped.  I have past projects which have proved that.
> 
> I recently purchased some one part polyurethane (moisture cured) from 
> Rural King that says that it has a 30 year design life outside.
> Not bad for $80/gallon!
> 
> I re-roofed the house a few years ago and decided against 50 year 
> shingles since I won't need anything that will last that long. ;-)
> 
> Dave
> 
> On 3/4/2017 11:25 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
>> On Sat, Mar 4, 2017 at 12:52 PM, Dave Cole <linuxcncro...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> Usually when they put "marine" on the label the price automatically gets
>>> jacked up 50%. :-(
>> I wish it was "only" 50%.   But WM has been my go-to store when I need
>> the best quality hardware, paint or electrical supplies.   Where else
>> can you walk into a local retail store and find made in the US liquid
>> tight sealed toggle switches, or even heat shrink tube with an
>> internal lining of hot melt glue or any hardware item in type 316
>> stainless?
>>
>> Last I used that paint it was outdoors with a foam brush.  I have a
>> few items I painted that have been continuously outdoors for 30 years
>> still looking very good.    But not cheap when you buy it by the half
>> quart.  Or maybe it is cheap when you consider the lifetime cost
>>
>>
>>> Two part poly/urethane paint is great stuff, but it is also very
>>> toxic.   Isocyanates are usually used as a catalyst.
>>>
>>> You need to be very careful with that stuff.   I have used it, and it
>>> works great, but it is a health risk if you don't use the right gear
>>> including good gloves, keep the paint off your skin, and a charcoal
>>> cartridge mask at a minimum if you spray it.
>>>
>>> Painters that use Poly/urethane paint regularly,  use supplied air
>>> systems with full body suits so they avoid the fumes entirely and keep
>>> it off their skin.
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 3/4/2017 1:30 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
>>>> On Saturday 04 March 2017 13:13:41 Chris Albertson wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Gene,
>>>>>
>>>>> Do you live anyplace near a large body of water.  If so there is a
>>>>> West Marine store near you.   Look for the paint there.  They sell
>>>>> stuff used by boat owners who keep their boat in salt water 24x7.  The
>>>>> best paint I found there is a catalyzed two part polyurethane.  It
>>>>> comes in two cans.  you mix then and then most use the paint within a
>>>>> short time.   You can spray it but it goes no well with a farm brush.
>>>>>    How hard it it?  New cars now all have plastic painted bumpers, this
>>>>> is when the car makers use on the numbers. It is tough stuff.
>>>>> Problem is that whole price is over $100 per gallon and retail is
>>>>> about $80 per 1/2 quart.    But if you are after "bought" you need the
>>>>> kind of paint that is mixed just before use.
>>>>>
>>>>> The spray=on "epoxy" just epoxy power fillers in it and a normal
>>>>> binder.
>>>>>
>>>>> There is also the kind that uses UV light to catalyze the reaction but
>>>>> that is even more expensive and needs special UV light "ovens".  The
>>>>> dentist use this for filling now and my sister uses this in her finger
>>>>> nail solon.  Ive had here paint a smallpartthen place it in the UV box
>>>>> and then the only thing that gets it off is abrasives and a
>>>>> Dremel-like tool.
>>>>>
>>>>> The two part stuff will survive decades outdoors with direct exposure
>>>>> to salt water, good enough.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Fri, Mar 3, 2017 at 7:57 PM, Erik Christiansen
>>>> Thanks Chris, yes, StoneWall Jackson Lake's Dam is less than 2 miles
>>>> south of town. I'd use up a 6 gallon tank in my 9.9, and refill it from
>>>> jerry cans twice from the headwaters of one leg to the headwaters of the
>>>> other main leg, and be several hours doing it. In West Virginny, that
>>>> qualify's as big. I'll see what Bill Cunningham has on the shelf at his
>>>> Warehouse Marine facility.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Cheers, Gene Heskett
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