On Tuesday 11 April 2017 21:37:30 Jon Elson wrote:

> On 04/11/2017 12:32 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > If you have a slow leak with R-12 in it, putting R-134a in
> > it will probably let you hear the leak, its a much smaller
> > molecule and can get out of a leak R-12 can't. R-134a also
> > operates best at 2-3x the high side pressure R-12 works
> > best at. Enough diff I blew the R-12 rated hoses on my old
> > gauge kit, and a new R-134a rated kit was cheaper than
> > just the hoses. I expect I'll have to charge both rigs
> > before the weather gets out of hand in the next month. Cheers,
>
> Well, the problem is that once these things start to leak,
> they will just get worse.  Generally, the evaporator has
> corrosion due to being wet all the time, and you'll just
> keep plugging new leaks. And, plugging a pinhole leak
> somewhere in the middle of a (likely) aluminum evaporator
> coil without blocking the whole tube might be a complete
> exercise frustration.
>
> Jon
>
I was referring basically to my 1999 GMC, which I had to convert. R-134a 
leaves in around 3 years, whereas the OEM charge of R-12 worked well for 
around 7 years.  The 2007 Rav-4 OTOH, is suffering from a worn 
compressor which while it still has R-134a in it, and I've topped it off 
once, is not doing much cooling until the engine has about 3 miles of 
35mph on it. Needs a compressor according to my gauges, not enough 
compush left at idle to do any cooling at all.  High side pressure could 
be used as a substitute tachometer.  Anything close to a normal high 
side reading is 4500 rpms.

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Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>

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