On Wednesday 12 July 2017 23:44:13 Erik Christiansen wrote: > On 12.07.17 20:01, Gene Heskett wrote: > > However at 6" of travel (and closer to 9" overall by the time the > > beam mounting brackets are added) for its overall length, thats > > about 4.5" too long w/o quite a bit of it sticking out past the > > plunger. Because that puts part of it well past a live center, I'm a > > bit spooky about it being easily damaged should something give way > > at speed. > > Rather than risk ruining the scale, what about making a short flat on > the back of the tailstock, affixing an Alu offset block wide enough to > generously clear the handwheel radius, then extending the handwheel > hub to bring your knuckles clear of the skinning device? By the time > beam mounting brackets are added to the Alu block, you're probably out > past the handwheel radius pretty quickly. > > What I've usually seen on tailstocks is a digital caliper with the > movable jaw clamped to the tailstock, and the fixed one clamped to the > spindle. If a 6" caliper is used, that's the finished length, as all > clamping is on the jaws. It's also quick to replace if there's only > one clamp screw on each jaw. > > Mind you, there's nothing active in the scale, AIUI. If the one you > have is like the calipers, then it should be quite feasible to put a > cutoff wheel through it without loss of function on the rest of the > length. > > Erik > I might have it figured out, Erik, and it involves cutting about 2" off the right end of the beam. Salvation comes in the fact that the barrel can only be driven about 2.5" before it runs off the bolt threads. My 1.25" bore clamp on the barrel nose, if I can find some 1/4" hard alu plate, will use about 1/8" of that travel. A rig with only 3" of travel would actually be ok. If I can get it mounted laying on its back on the mill, I can make a flat on the front face of the casting, getting it below the top some for less potential falling object damage, and still reach past it for the holddown bolts nut underneath, then another piece of the 1/4" can be used to anchor the slider, and a stub I'm SWAG*ing at 5/8" tall off the barrel clamp will reach the bracket clamped to the end of the beam. Getting the slider true to the barrel axis will be fun because there is not a location on that barrel shaped casting thats dead true to the axis of the barrel except the bottom V way.
I wouldn't mind a 1" longer bolt as it can only eject the 3/4" chuck with a double flatted back end of the #2 Morse taper its on, but not the live centers I have, which don't have the longer rear end, but its quite well fitted southpaw thread. Guessing at 1/2" 13 tpi? The thrust bearing at the handwheel has more slop than the bolt threads. 20-25 thou there at least. Needs a shimstock washer, or 2? Thanks for confirming there is not any active electronics in the scales beam. I'll feel easier about cutting it off. Cheers, Gene Heskett -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
