On 07/13/2017 05:44 PM, dave wrote:
On 07/13/2017 06:38 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Thursday 13 July 2017 07:27:35 andy pugh wrote:
On 13 July 2017 at 01:01, Gene Heskett <[email protected]> wrote:
Greetings all;
I have rx'd a 6" scale with a remote readout, made by Shars, or at
least resold by Shars, with the intention of putting it on my
Sheldon's tailstock.
Instead of that, why not CNC-drill with the toolpost? You get
peck-drilling and accurate depth that way.
True Andy, but I'd need a truly aligned hole in the table to support the
workpiece, which is a stainless steel rod, already bored thru lengthwise
and cut rifled, with the ability to locate that bore to microinch
accuracy. Oh, and I forgot, the hole in the table would need to be a bit
over 30" deep.
IOW, this is a lathe job.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
Please allow me to attempt to draw a verbal picture related to what I
thought Andy was saying
Mount a decent or indecent piece of steel on the crossfeed, large
enough to allow for a collet.
I'm thinking 5C or 16C. With a drill mounted in the chuck drill a
starter hole. Mount a boring head
in the chuck and bore dia for your choice of collet. Back out and do
the taper. Make yourself
a nice brass or bronze nut to affix the collet(s) in the holder. This
can now hold very long drills
for drilling for barrel inserts, reamers as appropriate, boring
heads,boring bars, etc. Your X zero is as good as your measuring
system and mechanics, ditto with Z. You can shim up if necessary to
align
in Y: or grind a bit off the bottom of the block. It is as stable and
stiff as your cross-slide.
Hope this is useful; I certainly have found it so.
Dave
Ouch! My brain is fried. How weather or age is getting to me. The
procedure for the taper is
clearly wrong. Do the taper in the mill with circular interp or mount
the block in the chuck and
do the taper. I used two .5" bolts to hold the block to the
cross-slide. I think that is stiff enuf.
Sorry.
Dave
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