On Sunday 10 September 2017 03:40:28 Erik Christiansen wrote: > > But I can't find anything that goes to over 110C. An ntc would work > > but its own packaging would fall apart. A Weller WTCP used to have > > tips as high as 800F, but that tech is 60 years old now. One could > > stick the hand assembly thru a hole, leaveing the heater unpowered > > but use that curie temp setup to trigger some real heater power. But > > the problem is, I may have the last working model of that on the > > planet. > > There are probably more extant than you'd think. My only iron is still > a Weller from 1973 - still on its first heater, 'cos I turn it off > when not in use. In the last decade I've bought a couple of new tips, > including one from Plato, which has a hollow in the angled face. Once > filled with molten solder, it allows a dozen pins on one side of a > QTFP package to be soldered in one second, after a thin bead of flux > has been run first. > > > OTOH I have a > > junk box with at least 2 of the platinum thermisters in it. I think > > one of those might be the ticket for the controller sensor. > > With screw connections in a ceramic block, that might do the job. > > > What do you guys think about the sawtooth pattern as a way to > > conserve vertical space of a really long taper. I sort of like it. > > A steeper angle would allow more wear to be taken up with less screw > turns, but probably increase the chance of it slackening off with > vibration. > > Erik > I wouldn't think that would be a problem if the adjustment screws are opposed, tightening against each other as the G0704 uses. I haven't had to do anything other than wear comp to it so far. My clue there is the resonant chatter vs rpms when the post gets a feelable clearance. Those screws have quite large heads, 5/8" OD, and seem to snug up against its twin on the far end of the gib pretty well.
They ought to go in the edge of the saddle, but clearances will probably make me put them in the cover strip. Which if heavy drag, could move a few thou until it hits the clamping bolts. But if they are that loose, I didn't make it right. :( They should be drawn up and immobilized with all those screws it it. A definite advantage to the saw toothed pattern if the thinest part is thin enough, say 3/32", at the bottom of the tooth's gullet it can act as a hinge from one tooth to the next, meaning I'll have far less trouble with work warping even if it does. The more I think about it, the better it sounds. Now if I have room for a 1/2" thick assembly without interferring with the top of the x motor or the bellows around the z screw as it passes by. Holding the workpiece will be the biggest problem as it will be about a foot long, maybe more. I'll need $300 worth of those low profile toe clamps. Fun and blue words I'm sure... Cheers, Gene Heskett -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
