Great idea... in fact I think I will use that idea to cool my TIG
welding torch! :-) A radiator from a compact car should be cheap at
the junk yard.
It might even come with an electric fan if I ask for it!
Dave
On 5/24/2018 8:28 AM, Kenneth Lerman wrote:
It sounds to me like a car radiator from a junked car would make a perfect
cooling tank and heat radiator.
Ken
On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 8:01 AM, Dave Cole <linuxcncro...@gmail.com> wrote:
RV antifreeze works well for things like this. I have been using it for
years in my bandsaw coolant tank. It doesn't seem to go bad even after
years and it doesn't evaporate much.
For cooling, You might want to consider making a flat tank. Two sheets of
steel or alum spaced apart an inch or so and welded at the edges. That
would increase your surface area for cooling while not creating a huge tank
volume wise. Put the tank on edge and it won't take up much space.
On 5/22/2018 5:34 PM, Bruce Layne wrote:
I've had two of the Chinese 2.2 KW water cooled spindles for the last few
years and have had no trouble with them. I consider them to be a good
value. Well worth the plumbing hassle, in my opinion.
Be sure to use good quality very flexible tubing of the correct size. I
think I got 8mm outside diameter tubing from McMaster-Carr (red for supply
and blue for return). I use pink RV antifreeze as the coolant. It's used
full strength and not diluted. I use it in the hope that it's less
corrosive than water. Neither machine's coolant has had any rust or other
issues, although there was a slight film of oil that's flushed out of the
spindle motor. I'm not worried about it freezing because one of the CNC
routers is in an attached garage and the other is in my basement, and
neither get very cold. I'd actually be more worried about the machine
rusting if it was in a condensing environment, and the CNC routers are
mostly aluminum.
I mounted a thin liquid crystal thermometer on the spindle facing the
operator so I can tell at a glance if the spindle overheats. These liquid
crystal strip thermometers are readily available on eBay and are sold for
reptile terrariums. I buy a bunch of them and put them in electrical
panels, etc.
I haven't finished wiring it yet, but the production machine will have a
130F bimetallic button thermal switch siliconed to the spindle motor
housing and wired into the e-stop circuit to shut everything down if the
spindle overheats.
The Huanyang VFD produces a lot of electrical noise, apparently mostly
radiated. I used ultra flexible shielded four conductor cable (three
phases plus ground) to keep the cable from radiating much energy. The only
place I had an RFI problem was the VGA monitor and a good quality VGA cable
fixed that problem.
On the larger router, I tried to place a five gallon coolant tank under
the router and pump the coolant up and then back down to the spindle
motor. I was partly motivated by not wanting a leak that siphoned the five
gallon coolant tank empty. After some experimentation, I gave up and put
the coolant tank on top of the CNC router enclosure. When it was
underneath, I needed to use such a large pump to have enough pressure to
pump the coolant six feet vertically that the submerged coolant pump was
heating the coolant more than the spindle. It was a spindle heater, not a
spindle cooler.
We're finally ramping up production, with some programs running
unattended for ten hours. I'm going to need to add a radiator in the
coolant return line and a couple of muffin fans to keep the coolant
temperature low enough. The other alternative might be ten or fifteen more
gallons of coolant to increase the thermal mass, but that seems to only
delay the overheating problem with greater risk of a severe coolant leak.
On 05/22/2018 03:18 PM, Roland Jollivet wrote:
I'm looking at getting one of those 2.2kW air or water cooled spindles +
VFD kits out there for a router.
I'm not worried about the noise difference between the two types.
Has anyone taken apart a water cooled spindle?
How are they doing the cooling? Is it a water jacket or just some copper
tubing inside?
How likely is it to leak in a few months time?
I can only find one video describing leaks and water related shorts etc.
(so they must be good?)
I actually prefer the idea of using air-cooled and making ducting to take
the exhaust away from the spindle nose. Make a closed loop fan-assisted
air
duct.
The irony is that I want to use flood cooling on the work. (composite
material) So it won't be a dry environment.
Regards
Roland
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