On Tuesday 17 July 2018 00:38:43 TJoseph Powderly wrote:

> I have not seen this mentioned on the list.
> Its interesting enough, esp after i tried opening and closing my
> collets with quarter turn.
>
> "people is so clever"
>
> https://hackaday.com/2016/06/20/hackaday-prize-entry-diy-automatic-too
>l-changer/

Neat, for a Styofoam carver maybe.

'twouldn't work on my machine. Incapable of loosening any collet/nut 
combo I own in 1/4 turn. 2 turns maybe, and in any event could only 
tighten a collet to about 5% of the torque it needs to adequately hold a 
tool. Might work if carving Styrofoam, but certainly not wood or metal. 
The tool would walk out of the collet until it was cutting so deep it 
breaks. Been there, done that, bought the tools and fed the wrecked 
workpiece to the trash fire to prove it.

To adequately hold a 1/4" mill thats carving steel, I have a customized 
(ground thin to fit the flats on a tts holder) 22mm wrench to hold the 
TTS adapter, and a 15" crescent wrench to tighten the nut, probably 
putting 50+ lb/ft of torque on the nut. Then I insert the TTS into the 
spindle and tighten the drawbolt with a porter-cable impact tool with an 
8 point 5/16" socket on a 1/4" adapter.

And that socket is apparently one of a kind, its getting fat and I have 
been unable to find a replacement, but its the only way I've found that 
will positively immobilize both the tool, and the TTS adapter.

The idea could be modified to give perhaps half a turn, but thats not 
enough to pop a er20 collet loose, and I usually need to change the size 
of the collet anyway it seems.

For instance, to make these tap hats, I first insert a drill of the taps 
shank size in a chuck mounted on the right end of the table, put the 
blank 7/8" slug in a 7/8 R8 collet, goto the center of the chuck and 
come down slow to let the drill quit wobbling, then drop the head at a 
decent drilling speed until its thru, retract the head, remove the slug, 
put it into an alu clamping jig near the center of the table, and clamp 
it down so as to put a good squeeze on the slug, remove the 7/8" R8, 
insert a 3/4" R8 and insert the tool, a 1/4" endmill, TTS and all, move 
to measure the tool, then back to the jig and carve a 2mm deep slot in 
the side of the slug about 8mm from the end, then back to the top, 
change the TTS for one with a 1/8" drill bit in it, move to measure it, 
then back to the center of that slot and half a mm above it, go down at 
4mm/minute for 1.5mm, so the drill self centers then 60mm/minute to 
drill a hole 10mm deep. Back to the top, and change the R8 for a 7/8" 
carrying a tap hatted tap, now keyed to the spindle by a notch in the 
edge of the 7/8" collet and carryig a 4mm.7 tap to tap that hole. 
Measure the tap and tap that hole. Back to the top, pull that hat and r8 
and back to a 3/4" r8, carrying a TTS with a drill sized for the grub 
screws used for this one.

Put the keying bolt into the side of the slug after removing it from the 
jig and move the slug to another notched 7/8" r8 chucked in a 3 jaw 
mounted in the A axis, sitting backwards so most of it projects out. The 
slug is supported by a poplar block with a 7/8" half circle carved in 
the top, all rigged so the slug rotates in that "bearing" when the table 
is turned. Bring the drill to the measureing contact and measure it, 
then to the center of the slug and using the same sneaky drive that 
stabilizes the drill, and drill a 10mm deep hole, back up just enough to 
clear the spinning bit, rotate 90 degrees and repeat, then 180 and 270, 
change the r8 and TTS back to one holding the tap for the grub screws 
being used for this one, zero the A table, measure the taps length, and 
tap all 4 holes. Except for installing the grub screws and mounting that 
tap in that hat, done.

How many "tool changes" is that?, tool changes that reach clear up to 2 
different r8 collets?

Neat idea TomP, and many thanks for posting it but impossible to make it 
do daily work on my machine. I would need something that automates the 
drawbolt too. And while it can and has broken several 1/4" endmills, I 
doubt it has the push to adequately tighten a collet nut.

> i dont think i'll use the wifi web socket esp/arduino connection
> though a remap may suffice for testing
>
> boohoo, the gif is 2.7 meg, else i'd attach it
>
> tomp

-- 
Cheers, Gene Heskett
--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most
engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
_______________________________________________
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Reply via email to