Since this is not a production job I would program a nonagressive cutting
regime. I would find some material a little thick (1/2?). I would clamp on
parallels so I could machine the entire periphery and face of the most
precise features. I would then turn the block over and face the block to
thickness and machine the rest of the features.
thanks
Stuart

On Sun, Jul 14, 2019 at 12:35 PM Gene Heskett <ghesk...@shentel.net> wrote:

> On Sunday 14 July 2019 12:11:00 John Dammeyer wrote:
>
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> > > Sent: July-14-19 8:26 AM
> > > To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > > Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Work holding machining Techniques
> > >
> > > On Sunday 14 July 2019 09:46:02 andy pugh wrote:
> > > > On Sun, 14 Jul 2019 at 14:43, Roland Jollivet
> > > > <roland.jolli...@gmail.com>
> > > >
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > Jogging up is better, backlash notwithstanding.
> > > > > Use an accurate rod or the shank of an endmill, say 10mm
> > > > > Jog upwards while you gently try to roll the rod under the
> > > > > cutter
> > > >
> > > > Yes, I should have perhaps gone in to more detail of the
> > > > touch-off. The way you describe is what I do when I want accuracy,
> > > > I use some of my massive stock of broken end-mills as the
> > > > reference.
> > > >
> > > > But for a skim cut to start a job, especually with the big shell
> > > > mill, I often simply jog down until it starts to cut, and call
> > > > that my surface (it soon will be)
> > >
> > > Another technique I've used, works well on the G0704 as its spindle
> > > is well grounded, and when making a "box" of parts, is to plant a
> > > small bit of pcb at some fixed and findable point on the jigging
> > > with super glue, and run the machine to above it.  The top of the
> > > pcb is connected to the probe input, I start the spindle in reverse
> > > so the contact is not destructive either to the copper or the tool,
> > > go down to the probe trip, then back upwards at about 10% of the
> > > down speed until the probe opens. This point is recorded as the
> > > #<_tlo>, and that becomes z=0 for the rest of the time that tool is
> > > in use.  Unforch I've got to figure out a better way on the 6040 as
> > > theres no way, with all the epoxy paint, and apparently ceramic
> > > bearings in the spindle motor to assure a good ground on the tool.
> > > So I've both a spindle mount probe and a contact pad/switch. Now my
> > > problem is a solid mount for it... Due to the wires stiffness, and
> > > its low weight it cannot be convinced to lay dead flat on the table.
> > > Combine that with the lack of a grounded tool needing to have a
> > > ground clipped onto the tool and a PITA is what it is ATM. But I'll
> > > figure out something.
> > >
> > > Just saying there's more than one way to skin this cat.
> > >
> > > Cheers, Gene Heskett
> > > --
> >
> > For my CNC router I use the PCB with a very thin flexible wire
> > soldered to it and to an input on the BoB.  When I press the tool zero
> > button on MACH3 it runs a customized macro I wrote that throws up a
> > dialot telling me to put the ground clip onto the tool.    It expects
> > the tool tip to be within a specific distance of the PC board which I
> > lay on top of the work I want as Z Zero.  Once I've done that I click
> > on OK and it goes down probing for contact with the PCB.  After it's
> > found that it adds the PCB thickness to the Z axis position and
> > retracts to the Safe Z location.  Then throws up another dialog
> > telling me to remove the clip from the tool.  Nothing runs until I
> > click OK on that.
> >
> > John
> >
> That should do a good job too, just be aware that you should actually
> measure the thickness of the pcb material to get that offset, I've had
> it vary by over a thou over a 1" x 2" teeny board. First noticed when I
> made micarta pallets to hold the pcb flat as I was carving a circuit.
> The micarta was flat, but the etching was not as consistent as I would
> have liked.  There, the idea is to remove the copper, without digging
> into the glass, which obviously is hell on the etching tool.  Works best
> actually when you have worn a small flat on the end of the tool.  Or I
> have drawn the end of the v-tip across a diamond plate at a slight angle
> designed to make the cut wider by a thou or 2. The end will wear as it
> cuts glass until it no longer cuts the glass but skids in it, while the
> cutting edge still removes the copper.  Tool is finished when you need
> to 4-0 steel wool the board to remove the coppers burrs on side one so
> side 2 will lay flat.
>
> I learned too, that you only drill a thru hole about 3/4 of the board
> thick deep, then run the drill pattern from both sides so it meets
> inside the board and doesn't drill thru, screwing up the pallets
> flatness with a dulling carbide drill. That of course demands .001"
> accuracy. I got that by planting a 1/16" brass contact just outside the
> cutout in the pallet, calibrating where its center was at, per pallet
> and offsetting the co-ords to fit.
>
> Slow work on a std mill, with its slow spindle limiting cutting speeds
> and one of the reasons I bought the 6040 with it's 24k revs spindle.
> Rapids are much faster too. Unforch. the bed is nowhere near flat enough
> for that level of work, so I'm debating on how best to replace it with
> something stronger and flatter.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
>  - Louis D. Brandeis
> Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>
>
>
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