On 7/25/20 1:10 PM, Chris Albertson wrote: > ...just model threads in the plastic.
This trick works much better on the newer high resolution MSLA resin printers that sell for as little as $209. I used FreeCAD this morning to design a rough functional prototype to test that has 1/2-28 threads. Two of them are currently printing on my MSLA printer with about 40 minutes remaining. I used high temperature resin for these parts. I'm sure several of you guys, including Gene, can guess what I'm prototyping. I attached an image. Hopefully it made it through the list server. I've printed gradually tapering nut pockets on both the FDM and MSLA 3D printers and pushed in stainless nuts. That works very well, and it's a cheap trick. I designed some large thumb wheels with an M3 nut pocket that's over 20mm deep. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4383435 In theory, horizontal holes and hexagonal pockets have overhangs that are greater than 45 degrees and that's usually a no-no for 3D printing, but in practice, small holes for screws or nuts can be bridged by the filament on an FDM printer and don't need support.
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