The nozzle and heat break have to be screwed into the heater block and
tightened while it's hot. Do that when it's all cold and thermal expansion of
the block loosens up the parts and it leaks.
On Sunday, August 16, 2020, 6:27:12 AM MDT, Gene Heskett
<[email protected]> wrote:
On Saturday 15 August 2020 09:05:48 Gene Heskett wrote:
> Slim chance I might get the rest of the screws I need later today.
I did, almost, get enough screws to put one together & take it for a
spin. Screw lengths very critical. Works but the motor only has enough
torque to turn it at over 2.5 amps/coil drive. But that will get the
motor hot enough to soften the plastic in about 15 minutes so I quit at
about 5.
Now the 64k$ question is, it is worth building an air cooled shaft
extension to isolate these from the motor heat? I'll have to think on
that. I've been thru hell with this printer and anything I need is 3-5
weeks away. The whole hot end of it is a pisspoor design, leaking hot
plastic out thru the nozzles threads. Or anyplace else. The si sock on
it is dragging on the work as its filled up, now that its cooled, with
about an eighth of and inch of solidified plastic from the leakage. Its
also ripped up from the leaking PLA glueing it to the hot end, and
damaging it during removal. The final fix might be a strip of teflon
pipe tape on the nozzles threads, but that would have to be done to
brand new, clean parts I don't have.
_______________________________________________
Emc-users mailing list
[email protected]
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
