Then go into the CAD software and fill the hex pocket and enlarge the holes to accept the brass inserts or make models threads.
At some point to you have to decide that the person who designed this thing only made a first level prototype and more development is required. I'm following your story and I would have made that determination weeks ago. It is a good fist try, to prove it might work but they break quickly and seem to be very hard to print. My guess is that a few more design iterations are needed. To make them easier to print and stronger. I think there might be trade-offs reduction ratio and backlash and strength and "printability" I had a professor once who said you can always tell a new or amateur engineer because the stuff he designs only works if you use non-standard high precision parts. Better designs don't need any of that. Designing things that work and are printable is hard. Easier to design stuff in metal with 0.0001 level specs. This designer was tinking in metal but using plastic. On Sat, Aug 22, 2020 at 3:42 PM Gene Heskett <ghesk...@shentel.net> wrote: > On Saturday 22 August 2020 16:30:56 Chris Albertson wrote: > > > The solution is not to use captive hex nuts. > > Thats what this thing is designed for, if indeed it has pockets for the > nuts. The m4's generally have a pocket, but the m3's in the wave bearing > carrier are plumb bare. > > > You can simply print M4 > > size threads inside a hole and screw the cap screw into the threaded > > hole. This works if you don't go through so many assembly/disassembly > > cycles. The best is to use these heat-set brass thread inserts. > > Then your screw goes into brass threads. > > > > In all cases, blue (medium) Locktite works well. > > And of coarse I have red and green. :( > > Got the second one running, fairly quietly, but I do need to split it and > molycoat the wear areas. 3rd one has a slightly smaller flexgear about > 5% built, hopefully it will work with one of the ring gears I have a > pile of at various sizes, flow looking good at 100%, even on the brim. > Running at 210 and 55 once past the startup layer, I read someplace > where strength was enhanced with less cooling under the nozzle, more > time to weld itself I guess, so its running that fan at 55%. And I've > resliced with some elephants foot comp ( 0.5mm) enabled. Thats why I > had to take the first white one to the lathe and shave that off. That > was not a problem with the black, but that stuff is more brittle than > the white. And I'm outta m4x10 ss cap screws and m4 hex nuts, > miss-counted badly. Monsterbolts and my banks MC is my friend. :) > > > amazon.com/Threaded-Heat-Set-Inserts... > > <https://www.amazon.com/Threaded-Heat-Set-Inserts-connecting-injection > >/dp/B07BH5X252/ref=sr_1_18?dchild=1&keywords=m4+brass+insert+3d+print&q > >id=1598128018&s=industrial&sr=1-18> > > That would need the source .stl's modified, and I don't know enough about > freecad to attempt that. So I'm stuck using the designers fasteners. > > Thanks Chris. > > Cheers, Gene Heskett > -- > "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: > soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." > -Ed Howdershelt (Author) > If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable. > - Louis D. Brandeis > Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> > > > _______________________________________________ > Emc-users mailing list > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users > -- Chris Albertson Redondo Beach, California _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
