> I assume you have a similar, fixed position spindle lock? I had to make > mine.
Nope. As a friend said the other day when I asked if he'd found a lock on his... "I use a big hammer on the supplied wrench to tighten or loosen it". He's since carved a 3/4" hex head on his and is now using his electric impact driver manually. > > Doing that twice, to position the socket as its comes down to fully > engage the drawbar should be doable with a dup of the same idea, but > since that needs to be done while its up, maybe a second ring and magnet > on the socket to make it work in the up position. That would also give > you the rotational tweek for free. The impact driver, with a short 1/4" > hex to 3/8" adapter should solve the socket dropping problem too. Humans are funny creatures. We do things so easily that are difficult for a machine. So we reach up and place the 6 point socket over the draw bar. If it doesn't go down right away we just angle/tilt/twist the driver a bit until it slips down and then we press the trigger. My air cylinder just rams down the driver and the 6 point socket and even with rounding of the inside edges of the socket it's still been scraping away metal on the nut. It's not looking great at the moment at the attached photo shows. Hence I'm waiting for the 12 point deep socket. I don't have enough adjustment space for a normal length 12 point and most of the 19mm sockets appear to only be 6 point for some reason. If I had a magnet on the drawbar nut assembly (or reflective tape) I could rotate the spindle until I know where the one of the 6 flats is. At that point if I had fine enough control over the drive unit I could turn the socket until the flats were reasonably lined up before I send the socket down. Yes. I'm making this overly complicated. It's what I do. I can't help myself. You are allowed to laugh. John > > Cheers John, Gene Heskett.
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