They are not intended for drilling, only enlarging existing openings.

Mill a rough hole 1st, using a helical path and a sharp up spiral bit, then 
finish it off with the boring bar. (Although in wood I'd probably not bother 
with the boring bar at all and do it all with a sharp carbide two flute endmill 
designed for cutting wood aka a router bit.)

Todd Zuercher
P. Graham Dunn Inc.
630 Henry Street 
Dalton, Ohio 44618
Phone:  (330)828-2105ext. 2031

-----Original Message-----
From: gene heskett <ghesk...@shentel.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2022 5:35 AM
To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] boring bar in boring head advice?

[EXTERNAL EMAIL] Be sure links are safe.

On 9/20/22 05:06, andy pugh wrote:
> On Tue, 20 Sept 2022 at 09:48, gene heskett <ghesk...@shentel.net> wrote:
>
> But the head offsets in a kit of boring bars are such the a 1/2" wide
>> bar, while boring about the
>> size hole I need, is also leaving about 3/16" in the center as an 
>> uncut post sticking up. So I assume that proper orientation of the 
>> boring bar in the head might assure its cleaning out the center.
>
> I would typically imagine a boring head to be used to machine a 
> pre-drilled hole to size. Are you actually trying to plunge-cut with a boring 
> head?
>
Yes, the material is hard maple. In metal, yes, I'd bore a starter hole.
I probably need to
make a jig to hold the workpiece high enough to let this plug drop free, but I 
don't have, in the go704, enough head room for  that, the boring heads length 
for a
3 incher, take up too much
room to allow that. Needless to say, the carbide bar has been re-sharpened 
until you could shave your arm just trying to get a clean exit hole. 2000 grit 
CBN is handy for that.

Cheers, Gene Heskett.
--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
  - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 
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