Are the ways grease or oil lubricated?  A grease lubricated system will be much 
more difficult to clean up and get working correctly if the grease has dried 
out, or worse had different incompatible greases used.  (Incompatible greases 
will sometimes react with each other and solidify plugging everything up.)

Those are not Hiwin HG style ways in your photos.  The HG ways are cheap and 
easy to get with lots of compatible imitations from various Chinese suppliers.  
Those look more like a Rexroth style rail.  Not that they are that brand, but 
that style/shape.  My experience are they are generally much better quality 
than the Hiwin HG style, but also more expensive.  That said I've had to 
replace lots of worn out Hiwin HG style bearings and rails on various machines, 
and I've never had a failure of a Rexroth style rail or bearing.  For example 
we had two identical machines from the same manufacturer but 1 year different, 
one had Rexroth (the older one), the other Hiwin.  In about 15 years I had 3 
bearing block failures on the newer Hiwin equipped machine vs none on the 
Rexroth.  Mode of failure is the plastic ball return endcaps blow out on the 
bearing blocks and all the balls fall out.   I've also had spalling issues in 
the ball tracks on a couple HG style rails (not sure who the manufacturer was, 
they were unlabeled so they probably weren't Hiwin, who usually laser etches 
their name on the rails.)

The differences between the two style rails are; Rexroth style rails have all 4 
bearing races inside the concave sides of the rail below the flat top.  The 
Hiwin HG style rail has one pair of races on the sides and one pair on the top 
edge of the rail.  The Bearing blocks on the Rexroth have a thick sheet metal 
reinforcing plate that wraps around the sides of the ball return end caps, 
while the Hiwin only has a thin piece of flat sheet metal embedded in the seal 
on the end of the ball return cap or on "heavy duty" versions a 2nd heavier 
reinforcing plate, but nothing that wraps around the sides of the cap to 
reinforce where the balls blow out.  Also the Hiwin plastic end caps are not 
solid pieces they have lots of internal hollow space around the ball return 
tracks.  (No idea of the internal construction of the Rexroth end caps I've 
never had the opportunity to take one apart they've always just worked.)

Yes, unfortunately your machine is what I would consider a cantilever style 
machine.  Any slop in either the X and/or Y axis will be amplified by the 
distance the Y axis is extended.  At it's furthest extension there is more than 
a couple meters of leverage applied to the X axis ways.  All directly acted 
upon by both accelerative and cutting forces.  While at rest, with gravity 
settling it into a single position, you might not be able to easily measure the 
lash, but you may find it quite compliant dynamically if anything is loose, 
resulting in wobbly movement at all but the slowest changes of direction or 
load.  What's worse the slop in the X and Y axis will be additive compounding 
on each other.  (It will also mess with your Z axis accuracy.)  Unlike in a 
more conventional style machine where X and Y impression is mostly independent 
of each other.

Todd Zuercher
P. Graham Dunn Inc.
630 Henry Street
Dalton, Ohio 44618
Phone:  (330)828-2105ext. 2031

-----Original Message-----
From: Viesturs Lācis <viesturs.la...@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2024 5:32 AM
To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) <emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net>
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] How to treat rusted linear rails?

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Thank you for suggestions! Just to clarify a little bit of what kind of machine 
is that - here you can see backside of the machine:
https://wta.hoechsmann.com/en/article/72463/biesse_rover_322.html#gallery-4

In my case the main problem are the rails along X axis (length of machine), 
where all that Y axis frame is mounted (in that picture it is retracted to left 
side, it will move all the way to right side, it might fall into category of 
'cantilevered frame') . So taking the rails off the machine is definitely not a 
thing I want to do. Y axis rails are in much better condition and Y axis 
ballscrew also is better (X axis has rack and pinion drive)

The size of the rails is approximately equivalent to Hiwin HGR35.

Unfortunately I did not notice the condition of rails when machine was loaded, 
so it was moved half a way to make room for placing the control cabinet on top 
of the machine frame. It seems to me that cleaning the rails AND injecting lots 
of grease in the bearing blocks is mandatory before attempting to move it again.

From all the responses I am not sure I understand completely, what is 'elbow 
grease'?
I would use something like this for the bearing blocks:
https://www.qualitybearingsonline.com/gadus-s2-v100-2-400gm-hi-performance-m-purp-grease/

Viesturs

pirmd., 2024. g. 11. marts, plkst. 14:59 — lietotājs Les Newell
(<les.new...@fastmail.co.uk>) rakstīja:
>
> I've had good success with fine scotchbrite and WD40/AC90/Duck oil or
> other light oil spray. It seems to do a pretty good job of knocking
> off the rust without affecting the metal. I find steel wool doesn't
> last very long and leaves bits of steel wool everywhere which is a
> pain to clean up.
>
> Les
>
> On 11/03/2024 07:42, Viesturs Lācis wrote:
> > Hello!
> >
> > Last year there was a chance to acquire Biesse machine for a a
> > really low price so I surprised myself with pretty large and heavy
> > Christmas present. Just put it in the workshop (where heating is not
> > yet
> > present) and was waiting for a warmer weather to start retrofitting
> > it with LinuxCNC.
> >
> > Since this machine has spent at least several years in a shed - roof
> > above it but no other protection against outside temperatures, I did
> > not worry about adding one more winter to it.
> >
> > I have 2 questions:
> > 1) are there any recommendations for outside temperature when trying
> > to connect it to power? I want to see the status messages on
> > servodrives - hopefully they are good (I have done 4 similar
> > retrofits so I feel familiar with those old drives).
> >
> > 2) my main problem is the rust on linear rails. what is recommended
> > procedure to treat this?
> > Here is a picture that show the extent of the issue:
> > https://pa/
> > steboard.co%2FC1EAn0w5t8KT.jpg&data=05%7C02%7Ctoddz%40pgrahamdunn.co
> > m%7Cadee1a35e0614a257b5508dc4340b52d%7C5758544c573f47cebee96c3e0806f
> > b43%7C0%7C0%7C638459192413774962%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4
> > wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C
> > &sdata=yDyeoorPCvaRGvlno1SVya2cXPpBtMLsX%2FPal%2FZQpwo%3D&reserved=0
> > What I did is brushing it with a piece of steel wool moisted with oil.
> > I am not sure that it is sufficient so I would appreciate any tips
> > on how to treat them.
> >
> > Viesturs
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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