Will,

Awesome trip!  I would have loved to have been in on this one but at
over 10 milrs you might have had to have carried me out! ~Laughing~!

" Dutchman's hammock " is awesome. What a vine!

James Parton

On Apr 19, 2:16 pm, "Will Blozan" <[email protected]> wrote:
> ENTS,
>
> Yesterday I made an epic 10.5 mile hiking/bushwhacking tour of Clontz
> Branch, one of the last remaining unexplored coves on the south side of
> Caldwell Fork. The drainage lies in the realm of the "Eastern Hemlock
> Superlative Zone"- an area in Cataloochee Valley that contains the vast
> majority of super-tall eastern hemlock as determined by Jess Riddle and me
> during the course of the Tsuga Search Project. Aerial photos and
> remote-sensed data indicated a few small but dense groves of
> hemlock-dominated forest lying in the topographic and elevation ranges
> conducive to tall specimens. A survey of this last cove has been nagging at
> me for quite some time.
>
> Clontz Branch in center of map
>
> The day started at a cool 36 degrees but quickly warmed up into a classic
> clear, spring day. I made quick time up the Caldwell Fork Trail and paused
> briefly to get waypoints for some trees and inspect the four hemlock
> conservation areas I was involved with treating in 2005-2006. They were
> mostly dead with scant sign of hemlock life. Treatments commenced too late
> and the hemlocks are now reduced to huge, standing lichen gardens. Although
> dead, the hemlocks with thick draperies of lichens were quite beautiful in
> the crystal air and blue sky.
>
> Lichen Garden hemlock snags
>
> I choose to cut off trail between McKee and Clontz Branch to see the lower
> flats of the ridge between them. Spunky old field pines and tulips were
> already nearing 130' and 9 feet in girth. I passed over a dry ridge into the
> eastern side of Clontz Branch and encountered a second-growth forest of
> mainly tuliptree. As I headed up the creek the western bank began to harbor
> some larger trees. I crossed over since the eastern side was west facing and
> dry. The soils were very rich and spring wildflowers were raging. The trees
> reflected the soil quality and the older relic specimens of tulip,
> cucumbertree, red oak, and buckeye were getting impressive. The first tree I
> measured was a fine, "stovepipe" cucumbertree 10'6" cbh X 139' tall.
> Surrounding tuliptrees were approaching 150' tall and were accompanied by
> white basswood, black birch, black cherry, and scattered hemlock. One fine
> birch hit 107.8' tall on a stem 5'2" in girth.
>
> As I ascended the west bank a small rich cove was the first uncut or
> non-settled area I encountered. A huge 16'1" X 155.1' tuliptree with little
> taper dominated the cove with several others 12-15' in girth nearby. Large
> red oak, buckeye, and more cucumbertree shared the cove with some impressive
> hemlocks. One hemlock in the center of a dense grove was the tallest I found
> all day and would have surely scaled close to 1000 cubic feet. It was 13'7"
> cbh X 157' tall with sloooow taper.
>
> 16'1" cbh X 155.1' tuliptree
>
> "Dutchman's Hammock"
>
> I was mainly on a hunt for hemlock but the soils on Clontz Branch were much
> too rich for dense or extensive hemlock forests. However, the hardwoods more
> than made up for the lack of hemlock and were some of the most impressive I
> have seen in the valley. The upper cove of Clontz certainly has the finest
> collection of yellow buckeye I have seen in Cataloochee. The largest I saw
> was 14' cbh X 141' and MASSIVE. This species is unjustly underrated as a big
> tree species; among the hardwoods- second only to tuliptree and perhaps red
> oak. Incidentally, a nearby unnamed cove has one over 151' tall- the tallest
> specimen in the valley.
>
> Crown of 14' cbh X 141' buckeye
>
> Base of 14' cbh X 141' buckeye
>
> Sharing the upper cove with the buckeyes was a giant black cherry that I
> believe is a girth record for the valley. This giant tree stood 121.9 feet
> tall on a stocky base 15'2" CBH. Just downstream from this beast grew a
> massive ~900 ft3 hemlock 14' cbh X 149.4' tall. Not bad for 4000 feet
> elevation. A sugar maple nearly was 9'5" cbh and 131.1' tall.
>
> 15'2" X 121.9' cherry
>
> Crown of 15'2" X 121.9' cherry
>
> I headed back down the stream and explored the side coves on the eastern
> side. One of the other dense hemlock groves nearly hid huge tree that would
> have been close to a volume superlative. The top was broken out and the
> remaining trunk stood 136.3' high. The base however, was really chunky and
> at 15'7" cbh enters an elite class of huge hemlocks. Taper was slow and
> numerous reiterations would have put the volume in the 1,200 ft3 range. Like
> every other large hemlock I saw on Clontz Branch, it was dead and oozing
> black goo from the trunk flare. Wholesale HWA slaughter.
>
> Not far from this giant hemlock was a sourwood that looked really, really
> old. It was a relic in a former chestnut dominated flat and stood among the
> carcasses of its former, fallen cohorts. At 6'4" cbh and 101 feet tall it is
> the largest I know of in the valley. I headed out from there and didn't
> measure anything else except for a really gnarly 17'5" tuliptree that was
> completely balded and scarred with bear claw scratches leading to a huge
> hollow in one of the broken off branches. I could have crawled inside the
> branch if I climbed up there- it was that large.
>
> 6'4" X 101' sourwood
>
> 17'5" tuliptree base
>
> 17'5" tuliptree crown
>
> Clontz Branch has a fine collection of hardwoods and is relatively easy to
> traverse. The rich soils keep the rhododendron out and the wildflowers are
> spectacular. BTW, I made a concerted effort to locate a specimen of
> yellowwood but even though the perfect habitat was present, none were
> spotted. I don't believe the species has ever been reported from Cataloochee
> yet it occurs in rich coves just to the north in Big Creek and elsewhere in
> the Smokies. Maybe the elevation was too high. Truly bizarre.
>
> Will F. Blozan
>
> President, Eastern Native Tree Society
>
> President, Appalachian Arborists, Inc.
>
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