On Jan 7, 2005, at 7:25 PM, James Lilly wrote:
Hi folks,Below is a prior post from Ed Burkhead. It turns out some coupes have the "small metal plate" at the top off the front canopy rim. Same idea, just adjust the information. See if your windows have been contacting the inner skin (Pt. No. 31035, Fig. 10 #30 in Parts Catalog) on the way down the track. The bench seat back frame attaches at the bottom to the inner skins. Structural damage to skins is not unusual. If bowed outward, these scrape your side windows.
I am flying a 415C (SN135) and I would like to change out the windows. Are there instructions somewhere that will tell me how to remove the windows? Perhaps the drawings Mr. Bayne was just talking about are the very thing I need.
The bench seat back frame has two triangular supports and adjustable-length rods connecting it through the rear spar. Remove the fastener connecting each bench seat back frame to each inner skin. The forward end of each (correctly installed) rod should have a clevis secured with a jam nut. Loosen the jam nut, remove the bolt from the clevis and screw the clevis OUT about 1/8" ( to move the lower seat frame forward 1/8"), replace the bolt and secure the jam nut.
The inner skin should now be free to move inward approximately 1/4, which should eliminate any possibility of further interferance with a side window. If necessary, rivet in a U-shaped reinforcement and redrill a hole in the bottom of the inner skin to properly line up with where the bolt hole in the bench seat back frame now is. Do all this before removing your sidescreens.
New windows should be .060 thickness material. The 19-3/4" width had a factory allowance of +- 1/16". I'd bet undersized ones move a lot easier than oversized ones! Adjustment is easy if you have access to a 10" table model disc sander. If you use Plexiglas, it is important you get the special drills for this material. The normal bit, as ground, will grab and split (not good). Aircraft Spruce has them.
Here's a link to Dave Abrams' site for directions for rear windows, (although he used .080 material): http://ercoupe.com/Maintenance/RWinNotes.html
Skyport John offers the following as to drill sizes: "The screws should be #6, which measure about 0.135. Use a 5/32 drill, or 11/64 if you're really concerned. It's the clamping force, not the shear strength of the screws that holds the window."
The real fun is replacing the welts. Most coupes have had many, many welt installations. NOBODY likes proper preparation, but cleaning the welt channels all the way back to bare metal all around is the best insurance for success. I like acetone (and I don't use gloves; it's natural...your body makes it too-make sure you have GOOD ventilation), rough terry rags (Home Depot, paint dept.) and sharp hardwood scrapers.
Cut up box cardboard into 3"-4" (or so) wide strips 5"-6" long. Stack two, fold double at halfway point and hold with a clothes pin; repeat many times. Lay the welt in the channel (without cement). Wedge some the cardboards into the welt making sure welts are forced all the way down in...cardboard should hold welt sides and back firmly against the inside surfaces of the channel (and verify welt length). Increase or decrease cardboard wedge thickness until desired results are achieved-you need enough to go all around.
Apply "fine line" tape to any painted area you don't want cement adhering to. I seem to recall applying a dry silicone spray on the front (sliding surface) of the welts before gluing them in.
Apply cement liberally to the back of the welt, starting at one end and pressing well in with fingers and jamming in cardboard wedges in to hold in place until dry. Wipe away excess cement with cloth and solvent as you go. (test solvent you use on hidden area of paint first!) Leave cardboard wedges in overnight before removing.
Mask the sidescreens and spray (edges that run in the welts) with the dry silicone on each side of each side, install (the reverse of removal) and enjoy!
My second question: are there up to date instructions regarding the maintenance of the aircraft and what current grease to use and where as well as what type of present day oil or lubricant to lube hinges with?
The LPS-2 is best for hinges. Other lubricants are described in the Service Manual. Your early plane (what's the manufacture date on your plate?) needs automotive brake fluid in the oleos, DOT-3.
Regards,
William R. Bayne
<____|-(o)-|____>
(Copyright 2004)
Any information would be helpful.
Thank you.
Jim
N86962
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(Ed Burkhead posting)
At the top of the rear canopy rim, where the two windows would meet at the top, you’ll see a small metal plate secured by a couple of metal screws.
Remove these screws and the plate.
Now slide one window up to the top. The back side of the window can now be lifted up out of the big cutout in the canopy frame. As you do this, pull the window toward the back of the plane to pull it out of the front grove.
Now you should be able to slide the whole window up and out of the plane through this gap. Repeat with the other window.
Only moderate sweat and minor cursing. Otherwise, no problem. Well, be gentle when you put the new windows in so you don’t crack them while inserting them – that causes lots of cursing.
