Yes, you can't just disconnected the housing and pull it out. There is a clamp in the stabilizer holding it.
Kevin1 --- In [email protected], Hartmut Beil <hb...@...> wrote: > > > Linda. > > If you also want to change the rear wire housing, then you will have to take > the stabilizer / elevator rudder from the plane. > > That is no easy feat, since the whole assembly is then loose and needs to be > held in place, better yet taken from the plane , so you can work on it when > put upside down. > > Still relatively easy work, but better done with two people and in a hangar. > > Changing the wire alone is simple - you are not taking anything apart then. > > > > Hartmut > > > > To: e...@...; [email protected] > From: laspr...@... > Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 13:54:03 -0800 > Subject: [ercoupe-tech] trim cable wire > > > > > > > Ed wrote: > > If you do fly it, I'd do as John suggests, set the trim tab flat to the > elevator. John suggested the chord. Humm. That might give more nose > down trim than you want. You might have to hold a lot of back pressure > at all speeds during such a flight. > > But I don't know that I'd want to recommend anything different. It's > conceivable that having the trim tab parallel to the upper surface of > the elevator might give a trim speed closer to your true trim speed. I > don't know and any such flight will be as a test pilot. > > If you do fly it, I'd want to clamp the trim tab in the position you > choose so it can't float and cause elevator flutter. (There's supposed > to be a spring strong enough to hold the trim tab against the stop to > prevent this.) > > Ed, > > To reassure you & explain: > There's presently no way to "set the trim tab" at all, it is firmly > stuck in one position because it is still attached to the wire, which > is stuck in the housing (though now broken at the front handle). In > fact, I only discovered the problem during flying the plane home (15 > min. flight) after painting. It took off fine, just couldn't trim > nose-down during flight and needed to hold forward pressure on the > yoke; by the time I realized that, was almost home, and landed fine. > > The spring & stop are all still where they should be. > > However, your post did make me think twice. If I attempt to replace > the wire myself, succeed in getting the old one out, but can't get a > new one in, *then* your concern about the trim tab floating around is > right on point! So I don't want to change the status quo unless/until > I'm sure of being able to complete the work. > > Since everyone says (and it feels like) the insides of the rear > segment of the wire housing is the likely culprit for why it's stuck, > I ordered one of those from Skyport, too. Hartmut has sent me a > picture of how to access the connection for that rear segment where > tail cone meets stabilizer; if my plane has the same fairing as his, > and the connection is right under it, as on his, then as he wrote, I > should be able to change both the wire and the rear segment of the > housing myself with a helper. In fact, if the rear segment of the > housing is rusted-up or corroded inside, then it is better to change > it out, too, rather than struggle with (in effect) reaming its > insides out. > > I am going to go look Monday morning to see if it has the same access > & connection as Hartmut's. If so, this should be do-able. > > Rest assured that merely reading your old post about flutter ensures > I'd never fly with anything flapping loose. > > Linda > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Keep your friends updated—even when you're not signed in. > http://www.microsoft.com/middleeast/windows/windowslive/see-it-in-action/social-network-basics.aspx?ocid=PID23461::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-xm:SI_SB_5:092010 >
