Hey Don: I still do not know which type of windshield you have??
    IF you have the bubble windshield, plan on cutting  approximately 2 
inches out of the rear window channel and placing a cover over  it when you are 
finished. This should have been accomplished when the bubble  windshield 
was put in place. I do not believe that the windows can be easily  removed by 
removing the windshield. I have not run across this problem, but I  have had 
to put the cut out in the rear channel.
Lynn Nelsen
 
 
In a message dated 2/22/2010 5:27:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[email protected] writes:



I am still stuck on getting the windows out!  My coupe  does not have that 
little opening in the channel as the photos show, so I  guess I have to 
loosen the windshield and move it forward to release the  windows?

--- In [email protected], iflysmo...@...  wrote:
>
> 
> From: iflysmo...@...
> To:  dongen...@...
> Sent: 2/22/2010  12:17:31 P.M. Eastern Standard  Time
> Subj: Re: [ercoupe-tech] Re: Removing  sliding canopy to  replace welt
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Don: I am sure you can get  different answers to your questions. I  
will 
> try to answer them  in turn.
> Yes, you can push the welt out of the channel enough to get  the window 
in  
> and/or out of the track. 
> You remove one  window at a time, but take everything out and replace 
both  
>  welts before putting anything back.
> Yes, glue the welt to the channel.  (The hardest part is usually removing 
 
> the old glue)
> No,  you do not need to remove the upholstery, just unsnap the baggage   
> compartment (after opening the zipper in the bottom) and you will be  
able to  
> see the bottom rear of the channel. Remove the seat  bottom, and raise 
the seat 
>  bottom support and you can see the  forward channel bottom. I use a 3 
foot 
> long  1/8 inch thick by 1  & 1/2 inch wide stick to attach the new welt 
to. ( 
> A  thumb  tack works well) After placing some glue in the channel, run 
the 
>  welt  down to the bottom and use the stick to work it into the channel  
from 
> the  window opening to the bottom. Of course, it helps to  have glued the 
top 
> of the  welt in the channel first. then  remove the thumb tack and wood 
> strip. (A piece  of two by four  ripped on your table saw works well if 
you have 
> no knots in the   wood)
> You do not need to remove the windshield, just the strap over  the top, 
in  
> order to remove the windows and put the welt in  place.
>     Of course, it is easier to replace the welts  if  you remove the 
entire 
> seat structure and the panels covering  the side  windows.
>     Oh yes, I recommend using  several strips of  cardboard cut into 
about 
> one foot strips 2  inches wide. Once you have a welt  in place with fresh 
> glue,  place the strips along its entire (as much as you  can reach) 
length and  
> let it sit at least overnight and preferably a day or  two to  let the 
glue 
> dry completely. This will make your reinstallation of  the  windows much 
> easier. Also, I recommend putting some talcum  powder inside the  welts 
prior to 
> putting the windows back in  the welts/channels.
> Lynn Nelsen
>  
>  
>  In a message dated 2/22/2010 9:56:45 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,   
> dongen...@... writes:
> 
> 
> 
> I am  following this close, my welt is badly worn, I have  new ones on 
hand.  
>  I believe you are saying that you can push the  welting up  and out of 
the 
> way to get the window into the new welt?   Do  you do one side and window 
at 
> a time or both at a  time?  Do you glue  the new welt to the channel?  I 
have  
> the sun shield option, wo I have  another piece to deal  with.  I assume 
you 
> need to remove the upholstery  inside  to gain access to the entire 
channel? 
>  I need to replace  the  rubber at the bottom of the windshield as well, 
> would it be  better to just  remove the windshield to replace the welt?
>  
> --- In  [email protected], Iflysmodel@ wrote:
>  >
> > Hey Mac:  I strongly recommend against cutting the new  window welt to 
get 
>   
> > the windows back in  place. It is OK to cut the old one, but you  
really 
> do not  
> >  need to. Just push it up and out of the way as  you  are forcing the 
> window  
> > end/edge out of the  track.
> >  Lynn Nelsen
> >  
> >   
> > In a message dated  2/22/2010 9:37:29 A.M. Eastern Standard  Time,  
> > hbeil@  writes:
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > mac.
> > 
> > have   a  look here:
> > _http://www.ercoupe.info/?n=Main.SlidingWindows_   
> > (http://www.ercoupe.info/?n=Main.SlidingWindows) 
> >  
> >  You  need to pull the window a feet or two through  the opening  that  
it 
> can 
> > be removed from the  other channel.
> > I hope  you meant the sliding  windows  when you are speaking of the  
> sliding  
> >  canopy.
> > 
> > Hartmut
> >  
>  >  
> > ____________________________________
> >  To:  [email protected]
> > From: pilotmac818@
>  > Date:  Mon,  22 Feb 2010 14:19:44 +0000
> > Subject:  [ercoupe-tech]  Removing sliding canopy  to replace welt
>  > 
> >  
> >  
> > My sliding canopys  have metal bars on both ends and  I  can't seem to 
> slide  
> > them out of the one slit on the forward  frame. A  matching  slit on 
the 
> rear 
> > frame would have  helped  (Mike at Skyport says there is such  an 
> arrangement  
> > on one of  the Coupes there). I would appreciate advice on  how  to 
remove 
> the  
> > plastic canopy to replace  the welt. I have considered  removing  the 
> > alumnium  panels covering the base of the panels  by drilling out the 
>  rivets  and 
> > later replacing them with  self-taping  screws but I'm not sure that 
would 
>  help.
> > 
>  >  Mac McMahon
> > N94184 VKX
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> >  
> >  
>  > ____________________________________
> >  Hotmail: Powerful  Free email with security by Microsoft. _Get it  
now._  
>  >  (https://signup.live.com/signup.aspx?id=60969)
> >
>  
> 
> 
> 
>  ------------------------------------
> 
> Yahoo!  Groups  Links
>




------------------------------------

Yahoo!  Groups Links




Reply via email to