Removing the windshield will not help because the window bow will still be 
there. If you take the strap off the bow you should be able  to get the windows 
out with out having a cut out in the rear. This is for the bubble windshield 
and as Lynn pointed out you have not told us what windshield you have.

Kevin1

  

--- In [email protected], iflysmo...@... wrote:
>
> Hey Don: I still do not know which type of windshield you have??
>     IF you have the bubble windshield, plan on cutting  approximately 2 
> inches out of the rear window channel and placing a cover over  it when you 
> are 
> finished. This should have been accomplished when the bubble  windshield 
> was put in place. I do not believe that the windows can be easily  removed by 
> removing the windshield. I have not run across this problem, but I  have had 
> to put the cut out in the rear channel.
> Lynn Nelsen
>  
>  
> In a message dated 2/22/2010 5:27:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> dongen...@... writes:
> 
> 
> 
> I am still stuck on getting the windows out!  My coupe  does not have that 
> little opening in the channel as the photos show, so I  guess I have to 
> loosen the windshield and move it forward to release the  windows?
> 
> --- In [email protected], Iflysmodel@  wrote:
> >
> > 
> > From: IFLYSMODEL@
> > To:  DonGeneda@
> > Sent: 2/22/2010  12:17:31 P.M. Eastern Standard  Time
> > Subj: Re: [ercoupe-tech] Re: Removing  sliding canopy to  replace welt
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Hey Don: I am sure you can get  different answers to your questions. I  
> will 
> > try to answer them  in turn.
> > Yes, you can push the welt out of the channel enough to get  the window 
> in  
> > and/or out of the track. 
> > You remove one  window at a time, but take everything out and replace 
> both  
> >  welts before putting anything back.
> > Yes, glue the welt to the channel.  (The hardest part is usually removing 
>  
> > the old glue)
> > No,  you do not need to remove the upholstery, just unsnap the baggage   
> > compartment (after opening the zipper in the bottom) and you will be  
> able to  
> > see the bottom rear of the channel. Remove the seat  bottom, and raise 
> the seat 
> >  bottom support and you can see the  forward channel bottom. I use a 3 
> foot 
> > long  1/8 inch thick by 1  & 1/2 inch wide stick to attach the new welt 
> to. ( 
> > A  thumb  tack works well) After placing some glue in the channel, run 
> the 
> >  welt  down to the bottom and use the stick to work it into the channel  
> from 
> > the  window opening to the bottom. Of course, it helps to  have glued the 
> top 
> > of the  welt in the channel first. then  remove the thumb tack and wood 
> > strip. (A piece  of two by four  ripped on your table saw works well if 
> you have 
> > no knots in the   wood)
> > You do not need to remove the windshield, just the strap over  the top, 
> in  
> > order to remove the windows and put the welt in  place.
> >     Of course, it is easier to replace the welts  if  you remove the 
> entire 
> > seat structure and the panels covering  the side  windows.
> >     Oh yes, I recommend using  several strips of  cardboard cut into 
> about 
> > one foot strips 2  inches wide. Once you have a welt  in place with fresh 
> > glue,  place the strips along its entire (as much as you  can reach) 
> length and  
> > let it sit at least overnight and preferably a day or  two to  let the 
> glue 
> > dry completely. This will make your reinstallation of  the  windows much 
> > easier. Also, I recommend putting some talcum  powder inside the  welts 
> prior to 
> > putting the windows back in  the welts/channels.
> > Lynn Nelsen
> >  
> >  
> >  In a message dated 2/22/2010 9:56:45 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,   
> > DonGeneda@ writes:
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > I am  following this close, my welt is badly worn, I have  new ones on 
> hand.  
> >  I believe you are saying that you can push the  welting up  and out of 
> the 
> > way to get the window into the new welt?   Do  you do one side and window 
> at 
> > a time or both at a  time?  Do you glue  the new welt to the channel?  I 
> have  
> > the sun shield option, wo I have  another piece to deal  with.  I assume 
> you 
> > need to remove the upholstery  inside  to gain access to the entire 
> channel? 
> >  I need to replace  the  rubber at the bottom of the windshield as well, 
> > would it be  better to just  remove the windshield to replace the welt?
> >  
> > --- In  [email protected], Iflysmodel@ wrote:
> >  >
> > > Hey Mac:  I strongly recommend against cutting the new  window welt to 
> get 
> >   
> > > the windows back in  place. It is OK to cut the old one, but you  
> really 
> > do not  
> > >  need to. Just push it up and out of the way as  you  are forcing the 
> > window  
> > > end/edge out of the  track.
> > >  Lynn Nelsen
> > >  
> > >   
> > > In a message dated  2/22/2010 9:37:29 A.M. Eastern Standard  Time,  
> > > hbeil@  writes:
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > mac.
> > > 
> > > have   a  look here:
> > > _http://www.ercoupe.info/?n=Main.SlidingWindows_   
> > > (http://www.ercoupe.info/?n=Main.SlidingWindows) 
> > >  
> > >  You  need to pull the window a feet or two through  the opening  that  
> it 
> > can 
> > > be removed from the  other channel.
> > > I hope  you meant the sliding  windows  when you are speaking of the  
> > sliding  
> > >  canopy.
> > > 
> > > Hartmut
> > >  
> >  >  
> > > ____________________________________
> > >  To:  [email protected]
> > > From: pilotmac818@
> >  > Date:  Mon,  22 Feb 2010 14:19:44 +0000
> > > Subject:  [ercoupe-tech]  Removing sliding canopy  to replace welt
> >  > 
> > >  
> > >  
> > > My sliding canopys  have metal bars on both ends and  I  can't seem to 
> > slide  
> > > them out of the one slit on the forward  frame. A  matching  slit on 
> the 
> > rear 
> > > frame would have  helped  (Mike at Skyport says there is such  an 
> > arrangement  
> > > on one of  the Coupes there). I would appreciate advice on  how  to 
> remove 
> > the  
> > > plastic canopy to replace  the welt. I have considered  removing  the 
> > > alumnium  panels covering the base of the panels  by drilling out the 
> >  rivets  and 
> > > later replacing them with  self-taping  screws but I'm not sure that 
> would 
> >  help.
> > > 
> >  >  Mac McMahon
> > > N94184 VKX
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > 
> > >  
> > >  
> >  > ____________________________________
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> > 
> > 
> > 
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