Eureka! At 1324 hours yesterday I successfully completed the installation of 
new trim wire in my coupe replacing the safety wire that the previous owners 
relied on.  I could not have done it without the help of this group.  I would 
like to give thanks to Hartmut for his excellent description and pictures 
showing the repair of a broken wire at 
http://www.ercoupe.info//n=Main.Homepage.  I especially benefitted from his 
picture of the fittings at the stabilizer which showed me how to thread the 
wire through the conduit in the stabilizer and run it back and forth several 
times-each time applying heavy doses of lubricant. To Linda whose advice not to 
replace the conduit in the stabilizer saved me many hours of useless agony; a 
look at the diagram of the conduit in the stabilizer in Service Bulletin No. 38 
clearly shows why she was correct. To Roy Stubbs for suggesting that I smooth 
out any burrs at the tip of the wire-- not only did I do that but I also put a 
point at the tip which facilitated threading the wire through the bolt holes. 
And to Kevin for suggesting I feed the wire through the rear; I've done it both 
ways and Kevin is right.  Thanks to you all.  I have learned a few things that 
I'd like to pass on:
1. Although Hartmut's picture shows the wire on the inboard side of the trim 
handle Service Bulletin No. 38 recommends it be installed on the outboard side. 
 I installed it on the outboard side to allow the fastener to pivot freely as 
Hartmut recommends.
2. Linda's advice to use copious amount of lithium grease to help the wire move 
freely is undoubtedly correct but I had no lithium around.  I did have silicon 
spray left over from installing the new welt on the sliding windows though.  I 
worked like a charm!
3. Although I can't imagine doing this job without visegrip pliers they have a 
tendency to mark the wire and cause burrs which greatly complicate the job of 
threading the wire through the bolt holes. Solution: sand the wire before 
threading through the holes.  Better yet, use two washers or similar to prevent 
the plier teeth from touching the wire in the first place.
4. If you have complied with Service Bulletin No. 55A Installation of Trim Tab 
Stops and Springs to reduce the chance of flutter if the trim wire fails, then 
rigging the trim tab according to Bulletin No.38 doesn't make sense.  Instead I 
set the trim control handle in the cockpit to the full forward position (nose 
up) and secured the trim wire to the swivel on the elevator to the full up 
position.  Consequently moving the control handle to the full back position 
moved the tab to the full down position which is what you would want to assist 
in a rapid descent.
I hope to acquire some expertise in the future so I can give back to the group 
some measure of what they have given me.  Thank you.

Mac McMahon
N94184
VKX Friendly, MD 

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