I'm confused. Hartmut's picture shows the wire on the outboard side of the handle just like SM38 suggest. That is the only way I have seen them hooked up and that is in direct line with the wire.
Kevin1 --- In [email protected], "pilotmac818" <pilotmac...@...> wrote: > > Eureka! At 1324 hours yesterday I successfully completed the installation of > new trim wire in my coupe replacing the safety wire that the previous owners > relied on. I could not have done it without the help of this group. I would > like to give thanks to Hartmut for his excellent description and pictures > showing the repair of a broken wire at > http://www.ercoupe.info//n=Main.Homepage. I especially benefitted from his > picture of the fittings at the stabilizer which showed me how to thread the > wire through the conduit in the stabilizer and run it back and forth several > times-each time applying heavy doses of lubricant. To Linda whose advice not > to replace the conduit in the stabilizer saved me many hours of useless > agony; a look at the diagram of the conduit in the stabilizer in Service > Bulletin No. 38 clearly shows why she was correct. To Roy Stubbs for > suggesting that I smooth out any burrs at the tip of the wire-- not only did > I do that but I also put a point at the tip which facilitated threading the > wire through the bolt holes. And to Kevin for suggesting I feed the wire > through the rear; I've done it both ways and Kevin is right. Thanks to you > all. I have learned a few things that I'd like to pass on: > 1. Although Hartmut's picture shows the wire on the inboard side of the trim > handle Service Bulletin No. 38 recommends it be installed on the outboard > side. I installed it on the outboard side to allow the fastener to pivot > freely as Hartmut recommends. > 2. Linda's advice to use copious amount of lithium grease to help the wire > move freely is undoubtedly correct but I had no lithium around. I did have > silicon spray left over from installing the new welt on the sliding windows > though. I worked like a charm! > 3. Although I can't imagine doing this job without visegrip pliers they have > a tendency to mark the wire and cause burrs which greatly complicate the job > of threading the wire through the bolt holes. Solution: sand the wire before > threading through the holes. Better yet, use two washers or similar to > prevent the plier teeth from touching the wire in the first place. > 4. If you have complied with Service Bulletin No. 55A Installation of Trim > Tab Stops and Springs to reduce the chance of flutter if the trim wire fails, > then rigging the trim tab according to Bulletin No.38 doesn't make sense. > Instead I set the trim control handle in the cockpit to the full forward > position (nose up) and secured the trim wire to the swivel on the elevator to > the full up position. Consequently moving the control handle to the full > back position moved the tab to the full down position which is what you would > want to assist in a rapid descent. > I hope to acquire some expertise in the future so I can give back to the > group some measure of what they have given me. Thank you. > > Mac McMahon > N94184 > VKX Friendly, MD >
