Thanks for that information Darick, Nitrile is the word I was trying to 
remember.  Too often I feel we get all tangled up around "airplane legal" 
stuff.  I would not hesitate to put those seals in mine, in fact if you get an 
exact size located let me know the part numbers, I will do it in a minute for 
mine.  I would then decide if I want to tell the Fedies about it or not (my 
brother is a FSDO so I can get some inside information for free).  So far I 
have never seen a ramp check that took Ercoupe struts apart and did a chemical 
test on the composition of the rubber cups!  Why Skyport did not just use cups 
for hydraulic fluid already in the supply stream, I will never understand.  If 
you don't do your own work it may be a problem to get your A&P to put them in.  
In that case you need a new A&P who has heard of the 337 process!

--- In [email protected], c.d.gu...@... wrote:
>
> Don, 
> You are correct. The cups used for DOT brake fluid is made of EPDM (ethelyene 
> propelyene -this might be misspelled) rubber. The rubber used for regular oil 
> base hydraulic fluid is acrylonitrile bunadiene, commonly called buna or 
> nitrile rubber. This is by far, the most common rubber used in hydraulic 
> systems like you find in earth moving equipment - Caterpillar, Case, John 
> Deere, etc. 
> 
> 
> These cups are readily available and are made of buna rubber which is the 
> rubber of choice for oil base hydraulic fluid, which includes the 5606 
> approved for aviation use. Now the problem is that technically we can't go to 
> a hydraulic seal distributor and buy these cups and put them in an airplane. 
> Am I right about this? Somebody in the group who is knowledgeable about all 
> the red tape can tell us. 
> 
> 
> If I'm wrong about this and we can legally put buna cups in our airplanes, 
> purchased from industrial suppliers, let me know. I've worked in the fluid 
> power industry for 30 years and I know where to get them. Here's my soap 
> box... Yes, we can buy parts to put into mobile cranes that lift thousands of 
> pounds hundreds of feet into the air and put hundreds of people at risk but 
> you can't put that same part in a two seat airplane. Ok, I'm off my soap box 
> now. 
> 
> 
> The good news is that the world has a cup that can be used in hydraulic oil 
> and is readily available. 
> 
> 
> Darick 
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Donald" <dongen...@...> 
> To: [email protected] 
> Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 3:24:03 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
> Subject: [ercoupe-tech] Re: Filling the MLG struts 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What the world really needs is a cup that can be used in hydraulic oil! I 
> wonder what happens when one puts hydraulic oil into the strut that has been 
> converted to the rubber cup? Many industrial applications use those same type 
> cups in hydraulic oil, made of a different compound I suppose. 
> 
> --- In [email protected] , William R. Bayne <ercoguru@> wrote: 
> > 
> > 
> > There is more than a little possibility of confusion by the less 
> > experienced in reading these two posts. 
> > 
> > I agree with Alan that the rubber cup is a better design (for proper 
> > long term oleo seal service) than the O-ring installed in later birds. 
> > The rubber cup was the earlier design, though. IMHO, the O-ring was 
> > NOT an improvement; but if your oleos are not worn to the point that 
> > the O-ring cannot seal properly, or needs replacement often, install 
> > the Skyport "cup kit" SMK-61. It is the "better now" to which Alan 
> > refers. Individual cups are available as Skyport part number SS12301. 
> > 
> > For anyone interested, the oleo snap ring (part number 415-33229-1, see 
> > Fig. 12, item 18, NOT clearly shown and perhaps no longer available 
> > from Univair or Skyport is/was a "Reliance Light External Ring for 
> > 1.250 shaft, .125 x .620 wire section, .250 gap, style #6 gap" from 
> > Eaton Mfg. Co., Massilon, OH. 
> > 
> > Donald is correct that DOT 3 brake fluid will destroy oleo O-rings 
> > (just as hydraulic oil will destrot rubber cups). That should come as 
> > no surprise, as this the lubrication instructions are specific. Many 
> > mechanics don't know about the Skyport kit, and blindly service oleos 
> > according to ERCO's serial number recommendations (thus assuring 
> > failure of installed rubber cups on later birds). If rubber cups are 
> > installed, brake fluid MUST be used as oleo fluid. It may be that DOT 
> > 5 (silicone) brake fluid will not destroy AN O-rings...I have not 
> > tested that. 
> > 
> > The "old time spring cap" (and tube) deteoriate. Due to rusting, many 
> > no longer have spring closure action. Replacements are available from 
> > Skyport (and perhaps Univair). Forney used Gits Bros. #402, Style "E", 
> > but there may be other sources of such a generic item. Some mechanics, 
> > not knowing that replacements are available may have tapped the oleo 
> > hole to receive the pipe plug Alan describes. 
> > 
> > The pipe plug was "production" on Ercoupes through serial 812 (per 
> > Parts Catalog Fig. 11, p. 12, (upper) item 14. If this item were 
> > correctly referred on facing page 13, I believe it is the final item 
> > listed under 12a as "AN913-1D, Plug - hex (415-33166-3). 
> > 
> > Due to the many production changes to Ercoupe design and service parts, 
> > it is important that posters identify the serial number of the aircraft 
> > their experience (and information) relates to. A list of many of such 
> > changes in inside the back of the Service Manual. "One size DOES NOT 
> > "fit all" in this context, and no one intends to mislead or wants to be 
> > mislead. 
> > 
> > Regards, 
> > 
> > William R. Bayne 
> > .____|-(o)-|____. 
> > (Copyright 2010) 
> > 
> > -- 
> > 
> > On May 27, 2010, at 12:17, Donald wrote: 
> > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > You speak of a filler plug with safety wire. My two sets of struts 
> > > have an old time spring cap like was used on oil holes a long time 
> > > ago, must be a change along somewhere. 
> > > I opted to use only new O rings, and the red aviation hydraulic fluid, 
> > > nice and oily. After seeing what brake fluid did to my other set, no 
> > > brake fluid for me. 
> > > 
> > > .--- In [email protected] , ALAN FAIRCLOUGH 
> > > <texasaviator@> wrote: 
> > >> 
> > >> How to and what not to do... 
> > >> 
> > >> I have found there are several things to watch out for. 
> > >> 
> > >> 
> > >> First of all, jack up the plane so the weel extends all the way down. 
> > >> Push the wheel up and down to feel the current hydraulic damping. 
> > >> 
> > >> If it is good, your sysyem is working and may just need topping off. 
> > >> If it is not you will feel it when pushing the wheel up. 
> > >> 
> > >> First thing to check is the bumpers. these are little rubber stops on 
> > >> the landing gear leg and on the strut. When the wheel drops down, the 
> > >> motion is stopped by a rubber bumper that is attached to this little 
> > >> arm. If it is missing, which is quite common, you are in trouble. 
> > >> The wheel has been dropping too far down, the filler hole has a rough 
> > >> edge on the inside of the 
> > >> cylinder and it destroys the seal. if you have a seal cup version. If 
> > >> you have the O'ring version, you need to take it off and get a seal 
> > >> cup kit from Skyport. 
> > >> The O'ring version was made to last 10 years at best and none will 
> > >> last long. It was a great idea at the time but there is better now. 
> > >> 
> > >> When you take the cylinder apart, you will see if you have the cup or 
> > >> the O'ring. You can leave the O'ring on as it will not harm anything. 
> > >> You will have to wash out the cylinder which is made of steel and 
> > >> probably has rust on the inside. Go to the auto parts store and buy a 
> > >> small 3 blade fine ctlinder hone that will fit inside. ( take the 
> > >> cylinder with you to test if it fits or make a second trip). You then 
> > >> hone out the inside surface with this device in a power drill and 
> > >> with diesel or kerosene in the cylinder. If you don't do this, the 
> > >> rust will eat up your cup seal. 
> > >> Wash it out well. Clean up the piston surface with sandpaper and 
> > >> diesel or with a wire wheel brush and install the cup kit as 
> > >> instructed. 
> > >> I find it is easier to fill the cylinder before installing it on the 
> > >> plane. Just pour the fluid into the cylinder and inser the piston 
> > >> seal and slowly push it down. Any excess fluid will come out the fill 
> > >> hole. inser the plug into the fill hole and safety wire. 
> > >> Put it on the plane and test the damping motion. 
> > >> 
> > >> If you need to top off the fluid, remove the rubber bumper and 
> > >> inspect it. Drop the wheel as low as it will go and add fluid through 
> > >> the filler hole. I use that syringe the dentist gave me to irrigate 
> > >> my wisdom tooth hole. An old oil can also works. 
> > >> The U cup seal is now above the filler hole. Do not push the wheel up 
> > >> now. 
> > >> Fill with fluid until it runs over and then push a wooden chopstick 
> > >> into the hole to carefully help the cup lip over the filler hole 
> > >> inside surface while slowly pushing the wheel up. Once the U cup seal 
> > >> is below the filler hole, prop the wheel up so it does not drop again 
> > >> and re-install the filler plug with safety wire and re-install rubber 
> > >> bumper. 
> > >> 
> > >> With the rubber bumper installed, you can now drop the wheel all the 
> > >> way down again and the U cup seal will remain below the filler hole. 
> > >> Now test the damping. 
> > >> 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > ------------------------------------ 
> > > 
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> >
>


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