EV Digest 2522
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: 110V AVCON Adapter
by Mason Convey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) basic and OT; DC voltage vs universal AC motor
by Marvin Campbell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: EVDash working now!
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
4) FW: EV: what kind of performance are you getting from AVCON/PFC?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
5) Re: what kind of performance are you getting from AVCON/PFC?
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: EVDash working now!
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: OT: Driver training
by Alan Batie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) NiCd manufacturers
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: OT: Dumpster diving
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: Dumpster diving
by "George Tylinski" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: NiCd manufacturers
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: basic and OT; DC voltage vs universal AC motor
by Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) OT Re: Dumpster diving
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) New GhiaMonster Pictures...
by "Steve" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: NiCd manufacturers
by "Thomas Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Range
by Richard Sklarsky <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Rabbit EV safety note (was gimme a brake ...)
by Seth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: OT: Dumpster diving
by "Kevin Coughlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Adaptor
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: NiCd manufacturers
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Adaptor
by "1sclunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Adaptor
by "1sclunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: battery gassing sensor?
by Andrew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: For sale: 24 mk2 loaded regs + sound fx board
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: OT: Driver training
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Adaptor
by Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Electric motor jackshaft to Shimano cog
by Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Range
by Lonnie Borntreger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Electric motor jackshaft to Shimano cog
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: Bringing my pack back in balance
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
i.e. tapping AVCON for 110 to feed an onboard charger...
+ How big are we talking about here? I've still got a healthy lower back:)
You better hit the gym, Marvin! ;) It IS actually going to be rather
large... larger than I had anticipated. Max input for your Soleq
charger is 30 A at 120 V... or 3.6 kVA. 3 kVA and 5 kVA transformers
are typical. I'm looking at one right now that's 5 kVA. The vitals
are:
230/460 V to 115 V, 60 Hz
Height: 7-5/8"
Width: 8-15/16"
Depth: 10-1/4"
Weight: 79 lbs
Slight changes - say to a 240 V to 120 V transformer - aren't going to
change these numbers much. You're looking at one monster xformer! :(
Let's suppose that you wanted to minimize the heft of the xformer. You
could flip your charger's selector switch to an input of 16 A. That
puts you at a max of 1.92 kVA. Cracking open a catalog, I find...
2 kVA xformer, 240/480 to 120, 60 Hz
6" x 6-3/4" x 8-1/2"
38 lbs
Still not all that small or "featherlike!" ;) :( Talk to Ohba at Soleq
about what it would cost to get a dual input onboard charger for your
vehicle or a dedicated 220 V charger if you would be willing to
live with that charging handicap. He may actually have one on his
shelf! Might be worth the call, if you haven't already asked him.
mason
-~-~- mason s. convey -~-~-
website. http://www.1opossum.com
email. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
AOL Messenger. mtnbikeAZ
Yahoo! Messenger. mtnbike_az
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Last I checked, Husqvarna made a robotic mower, but it costs about $1200.
J. Marvin Campbell
Culver City, CA
on 1/8/03 8:09 AM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List at [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
> Still for $350 you could buy a commercially made battery powered mower
> that was lighter and probably works better.
> Heck for $500 you can buy one of those robotic lawn mowers and let it
> take care of the lawn.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John,
I'm trying to connect my Handspring Edge, but been having problems with the
connection. The compact serial cable I purchased from after market (via
ebay) is slim, but bad springs. Finally got it to stay on properly and works
for a hotsync. Now to test on the emeter (which I have a 9-25 pin short
cable and a 25-9 pin adaptor.
Did you just plug it in and run EVDash and have it aquire? Or did you need
to set to Record mode? No instructions, just seat of the pants. Also, what
settings are you using (Options/SOC settings)?
Here's what I have, but need to validate with someone, like you:
Pack = 55.0
Peukert = 1.09
10% = 140.0
20% = 143.5
30% = 147.0
40% = 150.5
50% = 154.0
60% = 157.5
70% = 161.0
80% = 164.5
90% = 168.0
100% = 171.5
Max Amps = 25.0?
Thanks,
Ed Thorpe
-----Original Message-----
From: "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tue Dec 31, 2002 11:35 pm
Subject: EVDash working now!
I finally got EVDash working on a Palm M100 with my EMeter. Turns out I
had a bad serial cable my first attempt....
I did NOT need a null-modem, just a straight through serial extension
cable, I then plug the M100 serial cable into that. My biggest problem is
that I need to find a serial cable with less bulky plugs. This one is big
enough that it just barely wedges into the Emeter (too many cables and
things in the way), and I can't get it's hold-down screws to engage.
I could probably plug the M100 cable directly into the EMeter - but I need
it to sync with the computer, and it's really awkward connecting to the
EMeter. (Inside the dash of the Sparrow.)
--
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
POSTing to the Sparrow and EV List.
Some discussion about through-put on the pfc chargers with the public
charging stations.
bruce wrote:
The PFC-20 I had worked great on my 132VDC pack. I was
limited to a 20 amp DC output (21 * 150= 3.000 kw).
But with the PFC-50, I have to use a clamp on amp meter to
keep from drawing too much AC current from the host. I did
not have to be concerned with that with the PFC-20, it
would not draw 30 amps.
Drawing 30 amps on a 208 VAC source using a 10-3 cable
I get 37 amps with a 132 pack votage of 150VDC
(37 * 150 = 5.550 kw)
I think the PFC-50 is well worth the extra price and effort
(clamp on meter). It makes getting back on the road faster,
and long trips leveraging off public charging more fun.
I will assume that the PFC-50 is jsut oo big for the Sparrow.
If I were to stay with the PFC-20 and was offered a bit more
output for same size, I would go for it.
-Bruce
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Bruce,
>
> I'm getting rolling with my Sparrow upgrade with PFC-20. Wondering
> if I should get the Buck upgrade for my PFC-20, to increase the 220vac
> throughput to my pack from 16-17amp to 21amp. In my initial testing I
think
> I'm getting about 20amp initially, but need to test further. What kind of
safe
> throughput are you getting with your PFC-50?
>
> -Ed Thorpe
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 04:13 PM 1/8/2003 -0800, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I will assume that the PFC-50 is jsut oo big for the Sparrow.
If I were to stay with the PFC-20 and was offered a bit more
output for same size, I would go for it.
PFC-50 is WAY too big for a Sparrow! PFC-20 will fit in the tool/stuff
area in the back of a jellybean though. Get a PFC-20 with buck enhancer so
you can charge at 30A from a 240V outlet.
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 03:51 PM 1/8/2003 -0800, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Did you just plug it in and run EVDash and have it aquire? Or did you need
to set to Record mode? No instructions, just seat of the pants. Also, what
settings are you using (Options/SOC settings)?
I did have it in Record mode when I finally got the cables hooked up.
I have no idea on the settings, I was just trying to get the darn thing to
respond and display info. My settings are pretty much garbage right now.
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Wed, Jan 08, 2003 at 01:23:20PM -0800, Jon Sheer Pullen wrote:
> The amusing thing is that these days, we have good enough computers that
> drivers-ed could cover every conceivable situation in a simulator
I think it would make a great educational "game" also, though a larger
setup could be more realistic even...
> drivers-ed classrooms had 30 pcs with force feedback wheels and pedals
> ($1200 each of off-the-shelf stuff) and some software that accurately
> simulated the car physics (like viper racing) and the complexity of modern
> traffic - maybe three-displays to cover side and front views (multihead -
> add $500 or so to the cost of the system)
At last summer's Street Of Dreams here in Portland, one of the homes had
a home theater equipped with chairs that moved ala motion simulator rides.
They have a variety of enhanced DVDs encoded to move the chairs according
to the scenes in the movies. Hook them up to a driving simulator and you
could feel the road too...
--
Alan Batie ______ alan.batie.org Me
alan at batie.org \ / www.qrd.org The Triangle
PGPFP DE 3C 29 17 C0 49 7A \ / www.pgpi.com The Weird Numbers
27 40 A5 3C 37 4A DA 52 B9 \/ spamassassin.taint.org NO SPAM!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, I'm working on getting depressed again on finding batteries. The one
supplier of the surplus 24AH NiCd's that will fit my Sparrow - doesn't have
enough, and may not be able to get more. sigh.
So, can anyone tell me who manufactures NiCd Cells? (Not just reselling
for Saft)
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dumpster diving is encouraged at my workplace.
In fact my boss has often asked me "remember that xxx frame motor
with leads and thermocouples sticking out?, We have a new customer
that needs something similar" Sigh, I bring it back to work.
Otherwise it is put on some EV project or sent to somebody on the list
(free)
so they can incorporate it on their project.
I consider this 'recycling'.
I have TEVan parts that I dumpster dived 8 years ago.
Guess what? 9 years later I'm using some on my van or others.
These parts would be very high dollar if you had to re-create them.
Some of these parts were used on my EV Fiero that a non lister is now
driving.
'Recycling'
Rod
Jon \"Sheer\" Pullen wrote:
I am not recommending it, nor even admitting that I may have done it.
Reccommend all you want! Dumpster diving is NOT illegal, and in fact is
often used by law enforcement types when trying to find out what a criminal
is up to without getting a warrent.
At least as recently as 2001, according to The Art Of Deception, dumpster
diving was legal in all 50 states.
As long as you don't have to trespass on locked private property, dumpster
diving is 100% legal. Many times, if you're dumpster diving for devices
rather than corperate secrets, employees will be happy to help you dive by
leaving what you want in a neat little pile next to the dumpster - no one
likes to see equipment that someone thinks is usefull to them go to waste.
Back in my Epoch days, I used to dumpster-dive entire computer systems..
they'd throw out perfectly working pentiums and monitors, just because the
cases were cracked or the hard drives weren't big enough or the computers
were obsolete!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It is illegal in some areas to remove recyclable material if the garbage
hauler derives revenue from selling it. Scrap metal and newsprint for
instance.
- GT
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jon "Sheer" Pullen [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2003 1:18 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: OT: Dumpster diving
>
>
>
> > I am not recommending it, nor even admitting that I may
> have done it.
>
> Reccommend all you want! Dumpster diving is NOT illegal, and
> in fact is often used by law enforcement types when trying to
> find out what a criminal is up to without getting a warrent.
>
> At least as recently as 2001, according to The Art Of
> Deception, dumpster diving was legal in all 50 states.
>
> As long as you don't have to trespass on locked private
> property, dumpster diving is 100% legal. Many times, if
> you're dumpster diving for devices rather than corperate
> secrets, employees will be happy to help you dive by leaving
> what you want in a neat little pile next to the dumpster - no
> one likes to see equipment that someone thinks is usefull to
> them go to waste.
>
> Back in my Epoch days, I used to dumpster-dive entire
> computer systems.. they'd throw out perfectly working
> pentiums and monitors, just because the cases were cracked or
> the hard drives weren't big enough or the computers were obsolete!
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 04:37 PM 1/8/2003 -0800, John G. Lussmyer wrote:
So, can anyone tell me who manufactures NiCd Cells? (Not just reselling
for Saft)
Hmm, I just found this:
Nickel Cadmium Battery Manufacturers in the United States
http://energy.sourceguides.com/businesses/byGeo/US/byP/batP/batt/btora/bType/nicd/byB/mfg/mfg.shtml
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Only if you don't know how to shop on-line.
Here it is for $550:
http://www.robotic-lawnmower.com/robomow-robotic-mower.html
and these guys only want $499:
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/bigkidatheart/robroblawmow.html
I'm sure if I kept looking I could find for even less than that.
P.S. to keep the wife happy you could buy her a robotic vacuum cleaner:
http://www.time.com/time/roomba/
http://www.robotbooks.com/robotic_lawn_mower_robot_vacuum.htm
I'm holding out for the robotic EV.
> Last I checked, Husqvarna made a robotic mower, but it costs about $1200.
> J. Marvin Campbell
> Culver City, CA
>
> on 1/8/03 8:09 AM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List at [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>
> > Still for $350 you could buy a commercially made battery powered mower
> > that was lighter and probably works better.
> > Heck for $500 you can buy one of those robotic lawn mowers and let it
> > take care of the lawn.
>
--
EVDL
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I had friends that made a lot of money on Mac roms. They were used to make
Mac clones. Apple finally started to crush the chips before disposing of
them. I found a bunch of 6 gauge in a dumpster. Lawrence Rhodes.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon "Sheer" Pullen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2003 1:17 PM
Subject: OT: Dumpster diving
>
> > I am not recommending it, nor even admitting that I may have done it.
>
> Reccommend all you want! Dumpster diving is NOT illegal, and in fact is
> often used by law enforcement types when trying to find out what a
criminal
> is up to without getting a warrent.
>
> At least as recently as 2001, according to The Art Of Deception, dumpster
> diving was legal in all 50 states.
>
> As long as you don't have to trespass on locked private property, dumpster
> diving is 100% legal. Many times, if you're dumpster diving for devices
> rather than corperate secrets, employees will be happy to help you dive by
> leaving what you want in a neat little pile next to the dumpster - no one
> likes to see equipment that someone thinks is usefull to them go to waste.
>
> Back in my Epoch days, I used to dumpster-dive entire computer systems..
> they'd throw out perfectly working pentiums and monitors, just because the
> cases were cracked or the hard drives weren't big enough or the computers
> were obsolete!
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All,
I updated the site with new pictures RLR just sent me. They can be found
near the bottom of the page at http://www.ghiamonster.com/pics.htm . They
show the front end of the chassis welded in.
On a side note, I was wondering if anyone had a feeling for what kind of EM
danger three 8" Warps with half a megawatt going through them might generate
=o/ In the 3D model the motors are inline going down the car's centerline
right between the driver and passenger. Obviously, there would need to be
some kind of shielding between the motors and personnel if for no other
reason than to offer some protection against fireballs. What would be
appropriate for this shielding to also make the EM fields safe if they
represent a hazard at all?
Also, it appears I got the tire dimensions of the rear wheels wrong on the
model and that they're really 40% of the width of the car... each. So, I'll
be updating it when I get a chance.
Much thanks in advance,
Steve
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What do you expect to gain by converting from Optimas to NiCd
batteries? More amp hours?, less weight?, better tolerance for deep
cycling?, or what?
I'm concerned that you might convert to NiCd batteries and not get
enough range improvement to make you commute reliably. Or there
might be problems and issues with NiCd batteries just as daunting as
those you encountered with Opimas.
Tom Shay
From: "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2003 4:37 PM
Subject: NiCd manufacturers
> Well, I'm working on getting depressed again on finding batteries. The
one
> supplier of the surplus 24AH NiCd's that will fit my Sparrow - doesn't
have
> enough, and may not be able to get more. sigh.
>
> So, can anyone tell me who manufactures NiCd Cells? (Not just reselling
> for Saft)
> --
> John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Say Lonnie,
where are you getting this stuff?
--- Lonnie Borntreger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hmmm. And I thought that battery powered cars
> didn't have enough range
> for the car companies.
> -------------------
> DaimlerChrysler to Test FCVs in Japan Next Year.
> DaimlerChrysler plans to field-test eight
> hydrogen-powered fuel cell
> vehicles (FCVs) on public roads in Japan next year.
> The F-Cell
> prototype FCVs to be tested are based on its
> Mercedes-Benz A-class
> subcompact car and have a top speed of approximately
> 140 kilometers per
> hour (about 87 miles per hour). The FCV is able to
> travel 150
> kilometers (about 93 miles) without needing to
> refill its 1.8-kilogram
> compressed hydrogen fuel storage tank.
>
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A note about VW rabbits and front and rear brake parts and suspensions.
Early rabbits had smaller (15mm, IIRC) ball joints than later (17mm, I
think). A heavier car like an EV might want the later steering knuckle
and balljoint so they don't break. If they upgraded to the 17mm on the
stock rabbit, then an EV probably should have that also. Around 1980
they went to the Kelsey Hayes MkII front caliper, the one Chuck has.
This caliper lets you bolt in the inexpensive upgrade of vented rotors
in the front, probably a good idea for a EV. I am pretty sure that the
easiest way would be to change the knuckle, ball joint caliper frame,
caliper, hub and wheel bearings as more or less one piece on each side.
The knuckles and calipers are probably next to free at a junkyard and
the bearings, hubs, brake pads and ball joints are about $20 each if you
know where to look. Also if you want a high performance pad that works
on the street, try Hawk HPS compound. I know it has been available for
CRXs and VWs and it stops VERY well, hot and like a semi-metal when
cold, and it's about $35. Don't get the black or blue compund, they ar
race only, stop a bit better when very hot, but have poor cold performance.
There is another level of upgrade, involving larger diameter rotors, but
it is involved and probably not what an EV needs.
I ramble, but I figure most rabbit EVs out there have old balljoints in
them, and some are probably in need of an upgrade. There is a similar
upgrade for golf IIs, but I haven't heard of any on the list. If asked I
can post about that.
HTH
Seth
Chuck Hursch wrote:
>
> On the Rabbit, when we did the conversion back in '94, we
> refurbished the brakes with organic linings. On my steep (~20%
> grade) hill coming down from the apt, I wanted to know if I could
> stop myself in case my front hydraulic brakes failed. So headed
> down the hill and pulled up on the emergency brake handle between
> the seats. No stop. No fastah, but no stop. The rear brake
> linings were the first to go, inside of 10K miles. Hmm, not
> good, I thought EVs were supposed to have lower maintenance...
> So, Preston, the fellow EV'er who helped me convert my vehicle,
> had had good experience with carbon-kevlar linings from
> Porterfield on his VW Vanagon. I ordered up a set of shoes with
> carbon-kevlar street linings for the rear drums and we installed
> them. They have basically exceeded my expectations, and they're
> still going strong some 10K+ miles and several years later. Back
> to the hill test, and I was impressed! Yank, and come to a
> sliding stop, locking up the wheels. Can be done repeatedly and
> rather reliably, although it's tough on rear tires :-|. So I
> now felt safer against a runaway on my hill. Next up, my front
> organics ran out, except this time my inspection method failed
> me, since I was only seeing the outside shoes through the hole on
> the disc brakes up front. My mechanic had the car up on the
> hoist for the frequent CV boot replacement, and made a emphatic
> note to me that my linings (the insides) were nearly down to the
> rivets. Not good! So I had to punt and take him up on his offer
> (rather than what I was holding out for which was Porterfield
> carbon-kevlars on the front too), since he wasn't up for letting
> my vehicle out of the shop. He produced a nice set of vented and
> grooved rotors (which was another upgrade angle I was working on)
> and a set of semi-metallic "rotor eater" linings. Installed, and
> I could feel the well-known warm-up time (which wasn't long
> considering the descent from my apt). Those linings have been in
> there several years by now, and he says they're doing fine. And
> I also note that no sweat forms on my brow like it used to when I
> had a big hill descent in front of my EV. I pretty much take it
> like all the gas cars do. And when my car was down in the South
> Bay last year for an "extended period", we had the vehicle out on
> the freeway (Hi101) doing 70mph for some testing. Unfortunately,
> came up real fast on a traffic jam and all the brake lights lit
> up. It was work, but I got 'er hauled down with room to spare.
> It would help a bit if I had the vacuum assist going, but that's
> another story...
>
> Bottom line is from experience I strongly recommend getting away
> from the stock crap organic linings. Our EVs put a lot of heat
> on their linings, especially if you are in hilly country. Go
> with carbon-kevlar (my first choice) or semi-metallics (the
> braking is not so good till they warm up). Porterfield likely
> does not have shoes for your S-10, but there are probably shops
> that do. Police vehicles at least used to run semi-metallics or
> some such. Maybe your Kragen metallics would be a good bet.
>
--
vze3v25q@verizondotnet
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Long time ago, I had to toss two broken laptop computers out. I did as I was
told. I dropped them into the dumpster, into my other hand. Formalities
taken care of, I then took the two, and made one that worked. I traded it
for a non-running mercedes. I made it run and drove it a few years, then
traded that for an audi. Made it run and drove it for a year. Traded it for
an old van, and used it to haul stuff for six months, then sold it for $500
and immediately used THAT to buy my fixer upper electric mazda truck, that
I'm slowly working on and expect to drive this summer.
So... you might say that I got my EV out of a dumpster!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2003 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: OT: Dumpster diving
> Dumpster diving is encouraged at my workplace.
> In fact my boss has often asked me "remember that xxx frame motor
> with leads and thermocouples sticking out?, We have a new customer
> that needs something similar" Sigh, I bring it back to work.
> Otherwise it is put on some EV project or sent to somebody on the list
> (free)
> so they can incorporate it on their project.
> I consider this 'recycling'.
> I have TEVan parts that I dumpster dived 8 years ago.
> Guess what? 9 years later I'm using some on my van or others.
> These parts would be very high dollar if you had to re-create them.
> Some of these parts were used on my EV Fiero that a non lister is now
> driving.
> 'Recycling'
>
> Rod
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 11:52 AM 1/8/03 -0800, you wrote:
I want to get an adaptor plate to connect a Kostov to a Porsche 911
transmission. My understanding is that a VW bug to Advanced DC motor
adaptor is supposed to work (please correct me if that's wrong!).
No. The 911 is a completely different animal. I have a pattern for the
911/ADC 9" that I designed, as well as patterns for VWs and 914s. The
flywheel bolt pattern on the hubs is different also.
I also have read the "magic number" (flywheel face to motor flange
distance) is critical. Is this a standard number for VW and Porsche,
or will I need to measure it for my particular donor vehicle?
It is not standard. If you get the adaptor from us, we already have that
number.
I realize I'll have to make a custom mount for the other end of the
motor -- luckily looks like I can bolt or weld something to the stock
Porsche rear motor mount.
Which Kostov do you have? The older ones were a bear to design a mount
for. The newer ones are supposed to mimic the ADC mounting pattern.
Mike Brown
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
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At 06:24 PM 1/8/2003 -0800, Thomas Shay wrote:
What do you expect to gain by converting from Optimas to NiCd
batteries? More amp hours?, less weight?, better tolerance for deep
cycling?, or what?
More Range. i.e. More USEFUL AH's. Optimas can barely squeek out 40AH,
and that kills the battery pretty quick. It looks like I could get 48AH of
NiCd in the car, and they should last a lot longer.
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com
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I just finished a Porsche 911 but did it with a VW tranny . This was a bad
move as 1, was a lot of work making VW tranny fit were Porsche tranny was 2,
VW clutch slips (can't handle big DCP controller) . This is not my car and
toward the end of the project a 911 tranny came by . We tried the VW
adaptor and it fit the 911 tranny fine but at that point the VW tranny was
in . I got this plate for my first EV form KTA services www.kta-ev.com for
an adc 9" motor but later and with the Porsche used a kostov motor 11" 144v
. This car was very light and there was lots of room for batteries . I
used some YT look-a- likes made by excide . same numbers . Put 8 in the back
4 on ether side of motor and 5 up front.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Dymaxion" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2003 11:52 AM
Subject: Adaptor
> I want to get an adaptor plate to connect a Kostov to a Porsche 911
> transmission. My understanding is that a VW bug to Advanced DC motor
> adaptor is supposed to work (please correct me if that's wrong!).
The WV flywheel is held on by one big nut in the center(4 small pins also
aline and keep flywheel from trunning ) with piolet bearing inside . What
holds your porsche flywheel to porsche engine/?
> I also have read the "magic number" (flywheel face to motor flange
> distance) is critical. Is this a standard number for VW and Porsche,
> or will I need to measure it for my particular donor vehicle?
You can slide the hub on the shaft some . The VW I first used was the old
swing style and I had the hub as far off the shaft as I though was safe but
with the IRS VW tranny I had it slid on flush with motor shaft. (as I
rec-a-lect)
> I realize I'll have to make a custom mount for the other end of the
> motor -- luckily looks like I can bolt or weld something to the stock
> Porsche rear motor mount.
>
> If someone has an old adaptor laying around they'd like to sell for a
> good price please email me. I'd also appreciate any recommendations
> on adaptor vendors you've had good luck with.
We don't hear much about adaptor vendors and we should as every EV has one
(well almost) . What are your plans for the 911. what type bats/controller
are you planning? I don't have a lot of info on the 911 (which really was a
912 ) as its being finished by somebody else and I didn't even get to drive
it with a seat in it (or windshield) . What driving I did (sitting on a
sinder block) was a lot of fun . The car handled like a go cart (very good)
and lots of pick up.
> Thanks!
>
>
> =====
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
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>
>
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I just wrote that I though they were the same but you would know better that
me. And now that I think about it I think I got mine from you through Sara P
(this was 10 years ago so I may be wrong again) . A real fine piece . Two
parts that bolted together. and a well made hub that locks on the shaft.
When the guy came by with the 911 tranny we just held the plate up to the
tranny to see if all the holes aliened which they did/.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Electro Automotive" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2003 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: Adaptor
> At 11:52 AM 1/8/03 -0800, you wrote:
> >I want to get an adaptor plate to connect a Kostov to a Porsche 911
> >transmission. My understanding is that a VW bug to Advanced DC motor
> >adaptor is supposed to work (please correct me if that's wrong!).
>
> No. The 911 is a completely different animal. I have a pattern for the
> 911/ADC 9" that I designed, as well as patterns for VWs and 914s. The
> flywheel bolt pattern on the hubs is different also.
>
> >I also have read the "magic number" (flywheel face to motor flange
> >distance) is critical. Is this a standard number for VW and Porsche,
> >or will I need to measure it for my particular donor vehicle?
>
> It is not standard. If you get the adaptor from us, we already have that
> number.
>
> >I realize I'll have to make a custom mount for the other end of the
> >motor -- luckily looks like I can bolt or weld something to the stock
> >Porsche rear motor mount.
>
> Which Kostov do you have? The older ones were a bear to design a mount
> for. The newer ones are supposed to mimic the ADC mounting pattern.
>
>
> Mike Brown
> Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone
831-429-1989
> http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
>
>
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Perhaps you could detect gassing by pressure rise?
If the cell vent was small (perhaps pinhole size?) you could probably
plumb in a pressure activated switch.
Small diaphragm switches exist that will detect pressure differences of
a couple of inches of water.
As usual the devil's in the details, the switch has to like (at least
tolerate) acid mist and it would be smart to include a burst disc in
case the pinhole vent got clogged.
Would you need a sensor for each cell of would one per battery be
enough?
How much pressure will a battery case take anyway.
I suspect some of you may have some insight on this......
--
Andrew King
Ann Arbor Michigan
technology is the answer, what was the question?
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Sheer wrote:
------------
In order to finance my antisocial hobbies, and help clean out my garage, I'm
selling some EV related items.
1) A sound effects board, expects TTL level tach in, preprogrammed with 6
samples but I'll include directions for how to reprogram. (reprogramming
requires a mk3 wedge board, available soon) Deliverable in three months,
order now and put $10 down, total price $150. 10 available right now.
(Ignore the fact that they're marked 'mk3' - some unfortunate isolation
issues make them unusable as regulators, and I want to reclaim the money I
have sunk in them). Includes very cheesy MOSFET amplifier (low-side
switched), or you can connect to a external amplifier. 8khz sample rate, 10
bit sample depth. Just the thing for making your EV sound like a hawg, or a
Jetsons car, or whatever. You supply the speaker.
------------------
Dude.... you know I want one. Happy to see you making these available to
the list. Ink me! (watch out George Jetson!)
Roy LeMeur Seattle WA
My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informational Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
_________________________________________________________________
Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
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Sheer wrote:
------
I think often the best thing to do in a emergancy is check openings on both
sides and then ajust steering to avoid obsticle while braking or
accelerating to fit opening - quite often I've avoided accidents (or at
least calls too close for comfort) by _accelerating_.
--------
Be aware is rule number one. Know where all your escape routes are. Be
willing to dive into them to avoid the lame$$s drivers which populate our
roadways. Personally, I always avoid having another vehicle right next to me
and always give the questionable drivers plenty of room
Just my stopping distance worth :^D
Roy LeMeur Seattle WA
My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informational Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
_________________________________________________________________
Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
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On Wed, 2003-01-08 at 19:55, Electro Automotive wrote:
> At 11:52 AM 1/8/03 -0800, you wrote:
> >I want to get an adaptor plate to connect a Kostov to a Porsche 911
> >transmission. My understanding is that a VW bug to Advanced DC motor
> >adaptor is supposed to work (please correct me if that's wrong!).
>
> No. The 911 is a completely different animal. I have a pattern for the
> 911/ADC 9" that I designed, as well as patterns for VWs and 914s. The
> flywheel bolt pattern on the hubs is different also.
The flywheel bolt pattern might be different but the adapter plate is
identical, i.e the engine to transmission mounting bolts and pattern.
Also there is no requirement to use a Porsche flywheel, you could use a
VW flywheel that is the right size to fit the Porsche clutch disk.
As far as the Kostov vs ADC, I couldn't say.
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Ok there are at least three solutions.
#1 get a #40 or #42 cog for industrial chain and carve it down
(thinner). It's the right spacing for the links but just too thick.
#2 Use go-cart type chain and sprockets (#35)
http://www.nidlink.com/~glblitnpwr/driveparts.htm
(they 'might' be able to order a sprocket that works on bike chains)
#3 Build a Shimano adapter. Here's how I did it.
FIrst I got an old cassette hub body (Just the part the gears slide on
to) You can either start with an old hub and strip it down (like I did)
or see if your local bike shop has one in their "junk" drawer.
Then get a plastic or aluminum pulley designed for toothed belts (timing
belts). Might be able to find one at an auto parts store or your local
mechanic or DIY autocenter (look in the junk/recycle bin)
Find one that fits your motor and is either a snug fit inside the
cassette body or larger. If it's larger attach it to the motor (put the
motor shaft through a hole in a piece of paper/plastic first to keep
metal filings out of motor) and turn the motor on.
Use a rasp or file on the pulley until you carve it down to size so that
it will fit snugly in the body (check frequently while working on it)
Clean the body out good with a degreaser and use "JB Weld" to glue the
modified pulley inside the cassette body.
Volia' a home made cassette adapter.
If you make it so the locking threads are towards the inside (motor
side) then you can use one of the small screw on sprockets. However I
would recommend using the slide on sprockets and the screw on locking
ring.
You can see some photos of this at my old website:
http://www.angelfire.com/oh/PetesCafe/phase2.html
Second and third photos down on the right.
note: this bike was a really crappy design (especially the motor mount)
and was just a quick proof of concept. However the drive sprocket
worked great and I still use it in other test projects.
P.S. don't forget to make some way to tighten down the locking screw to
hold the adaptor on the shaft. I had to drill a hole through my
cassette body and make sure I didn't get any JB Weld into the threaded
hole in the aluminum pulley I used. I just filled the holes up with wax
before glueing and made sure they lined up before the glue set..
> Hi. I'm building an electric bicycle, and I'm stumped
> about where to find a specific part:
>
> I'm looking for a hub that will go on a 1/2, 5/8, or
> 3/4 inch electric motor jackshaft that will hold an
> individual Shimano sprocket from a Shimano sprocket
> cassette.
>
> Does anybody know where I can get such a part? Or can
> anyone suggest a solution that will allow me to use a
> Shimano cog with an electric motor (obviously I want
> to use a bicycle chain, not a #30 chain for which
> there are jackshaft gears available)?
>
> I'm assuming this has been done many times before so
> I'm hoping there is an easy solution.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> grant-
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
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>
--
EVDL
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On Wed, 2003-01-08 at 20:45, Richard Sklarsky wrote:
> Say Lonnie,
> where are you getting this stuff?
>From here:
-------------
To subscribe to Fuel Cells 2000's Fuel Cell Technology Updates, send a
blank message to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Fuel Cells 2000 (www.fuelcells.org) is a non-profit, educational
activity that seeks to promote the development, demonstration and
commercialization of fuel cell technology.
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Grant Young wrote:
> I'm looking for a hub that will go on a 1/2, 5/8, or
> 3/4 inch electric motor jackshaft that will hold an
> individual Shimano sprocket from a Shimano sprocket
> cassette.
>
> Does anybody know where I can get such a part?
Electric motors run pretty fast; like 3000-5000 rpm for the ones often
used on electric bikes. This is really too fast for ordinary bicycle
chain. That's why you see gearboxes, friction drives, belts, or much
smaller chain sizes used.
--
Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
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Mark Dodrill wrote:
>
> Hello all. I could use some recommendations on exactly how to bring
> all the batteries in pack back in alignment with each other.
If they are seriously out of balance, you don't want to rebalance them
with the Rudman regulators. They are only intended to *keep* batteries
in balance.
The simplest way is to either charge or discharge each battery (pair)
individually, so they are all at a known state of charge. For example,
clip on a load resistor until each one reaches 10.5v. Or, connect a good
12v charger that turns off when it detects that the battery is full, and
let it sequentially recharge each pair.
Then your batteries will be pretty close to balanced. You can then
charge and discharge them all at once, with the Rudman regulators
leaning on them to push them the rest of the way into line.
--
Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
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