EV Digest 2837
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: First EV ride from Oz. (and amp-hours)
by Seth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) OT:html vs. txt (was watch your quoting)
by Aubrey Wilder <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: SIADIS Inverter software question-Window 98 problem?
by Ryan Fulcher <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: EV Motorcycle
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: OT: HTML in Emails
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: OT: HTML in Emails
by Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: OOPs should have been pictures of Sparky. OOPs do I see you motor mounted to
the upper frame?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) EV Drag Bike
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
9) Re: sparky, e-bike, nicads and' stuff from Damon
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Status of E-Cycle?
by "The Levine Family" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: EV Drag Bike (addendum)
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
12) Re: Old Motor help
by "The Levine Family" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Electrify this.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Wouldn't this make a nice EV.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: FYI Rabbit original gas inlet to be Avcon with Ford Think hatch.
by Danny Ames <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) eBay posting feedback, please
by "The Levine Family" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) TELL Auto dealers their future hybrid offerings must have plug in
abilities
by Danny Ames <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Put out the flames! (OT, apology)
by Lesley Walker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: eBay posting feedback, please
by "Mike Brandon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) More on line calculations pages
by "James Jarrett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: SIADIS Inverter software question-Window 98 problem?
by "Ed Koffeman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: OT: HTML in Emails
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Electrify this.
by Michael Hurley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: eBay posting feedback, please
by Stan Witherspoon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Electrify this.
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: eBay posting feedback, please
by "Eric Penne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) FYI: Two additional models of EV impacts on Climate Change vs ICE
by Jay Donnaway <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: US Battery Life
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Sparky comments
by "Chris Tromley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: Henney problem.
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I see where I said something ambiguous.
So by "less than 30amp hours most of the time", I meant for most trips
keep the consumption before recharge less than 30 amp-hours. Like less
than 80% DOD.
The rationale: You have 52 amp-hour batteries (2x26) at C/10 rate.
Probably 35 or 40 amp hours at the 1 hour rate if you are lucky. So you
should not use more that 30 amp hours or 9 kilowatt-hours (implied
300VDC pack) of energy before you recharge. Or even less. I don't need
to tell you what a reversed cell smells like...
For an analogy
amps= miles per hour
amp-hours= miles (or miles per hour multiplied times hours driven)
if you do 35 miles per hour for 45 minutes, you get 35mph x 45 min
*1hour/60min = 26.25 miles
if you discharge at 35 amps for 45 minutes you get 26.25 amp-hours
26.25 amp-hours * 300VDC is 7875 watt-hours or ~7.9kWh
I can't see why you can't do 200 amps peak current (total). With a 300V
pack, you have the voltage to probably keep accelerating for a while,
so the 200A peak might be for tens of seconds. If you can keep battery
amps below that level, you are better off. As a data point, Solectria
Forces ran a similar battery current at about half the voltage.
(http://www.solectria.com/products/usedcars.html ) The result was about
the same peak power as your 300V car at 130 battery amps. You probably
don't need more than 150 battery amps, and less current is good for
range (and probably can't hurt battery and controller longevity)
Seth
Chris Zach wrote:
>
> I'm just not going to say amps anymore :-)
>
> > For a trip, I would try to keep it under 30 amp-hours most of the time,
> > maybe less. Half the C/10 rate amp-hour capacity is probaably a good
> > place to stop, at least at first.
>
> 30 is a bit low; times 300 volts that's only 9kw of power. Bit light.
>
> > Low power, higher energy gel batteries are probably better off at a max
> > of 2-3x c/20 rating. Or 160-240amps for a 80amp-hour (rated at C/20)
> > battery. AGMs, like those Hawkers can do more. 4X is ~200A or 60kW or
> > about 80hp input (again, assuming the nominal 300VDC), probably 70 hp
> > output. I would *hope* that 300 battery amps is safe *if* the inverter
> > will do it. If you can keep the peak current at 120A total (not 120 x 2
> > strings) then you are doing very well.
>
> 200 amps is pretty much the cut-off point for the inverter. So it's safe
> to take the car up to 200? If so then I can really launch this thing :-)
>
> Chris
--
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So sorry to continue this topic but I had to put in my two cents.
The original request, as I remember it, was just that everyone chop off the
message they were responding to except for the pertinent bits. That would
keep the digest version of the list from getting so long.
I don't think that the person who started all this (sorry, don't remember
your name and can't find the archives!) intended a debate on the merits of
plain text vs html.
But, if everyone could trim their messages, those of us on the digest
version would greatly appreciate it.
Can't we all just get along... :D
Aubrey
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Augh the fun of com ports..
Actually com3 is supposed to share an irq with com1, 2&4 share aswell.
com3 and com4's irq's can be changed, but this is the standard.
I should have caught this in my last post, but you should use
com1 and com2 for the two devices that are going to be "talking"
at the same time.
If you'r computer has only one native com port (com1) and you are
using a usb-serial device then all further bets and speculation are off.
If you have two native ports, use them for your dos app,
make your other serial devices (mouse?) use the usb stuff.
Remember:
com3 is at address "3" "e" "three"
com1 is at address "3" "f" same 3 different letter
com2 is at address "2" "f" f's are first.
com4 is at address "2" "e" fill in the blanks.
Of course:
com3 would use irq 4, just to keep you on your toes.
com1 uses the same, since odd ports share irq's
com2 and com4 must then be at irq3.
funny the odd ports use even interupts, the even ports use odd.
com1-3f8h-irq4
com2-2f8h-irq3
com3-3e8h-irq4(or other irq)
com4-2e8h-irq3(or other irq)
com5-Not available in dos.
com6+ ditto
Many prople like to give the higher ports(3,4,+) their own irq's if they
are available
though they rarely are(were). In general there are only two serial
ports on a computer
anyhow. com 1&2 can be used at the same time since they have different
irq's.
com ports that share irq's can some times be used at the same time, but
you should try
to avoid this, mouse on com2, modem on com1 or com3 but not on com4.
augh he11, nevermind, none of this really applies to modern computers anyway
with their big bad pci buses, plug-n-pray expansion devices, and the new
universal
serial bus that is just starting to become universal, sorta... Things
were much simpler
back when you could set a jumper...
"modem is at com3, irq4, and it's not goin to change itself"
L8r
Ryan
PS. Anyone have any low level obd-ii communication tricks or tips?
Tim Clevenger wrote:
Hi Cliff,
Part of the problem is that SIADIS may not be able to properly
determine the IRQ for COM3 and up. COM1 is always on IRQ4, and COM2
is always on IRQ3, but COM3 and COM4 have to be assigned whichever
IRQ's are free in your system. (COM3 can be on IRQ5 or 7, depending
on whether it can coexist with your sound card, and USB adapters
sometimes assign IRQ's above 10 to serial ports.) In addition, USB to
serial adapters can assign addresses other than the standard 3E8 to COM3.
Check your Device Mangler to see what IRQ and address are assigned to
COM3. Victor may then be able to help you put in the correct address
and IRQ into the INI file.
As far as running multiple copies of SIADIS at the same time, you may
need to keep a completely different copy in a separate folder, so each
can use a separate INI. Try SIADIS.EXE /? or /HELP from a DOS prompt
to see if you can specify the port or INI file from the command line,
then create a batch file appopriately.
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: Cliff Rassweiler [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: June 04, 2003 16:26
To: EV List
Subject: SIADIS Inverter software question-Window 98 problem?
Hi,
I am using the SIADIS software with the two Siemans Inverters that we got
from Metricmind. I am having trouble getting the software to look
anywhere
but com1 for the serial connection to the inverter.
I have used notepad to edit the siadis.ini file where I have changed
comm =
COM1 to comm = COM3. Despite this, the software is still reading on COM1.
I am running the software as a DOS window under Windows 98. Victor
suggests
that under Windows, the .ini might be being ignored. This seems probable
because I have also tried modifying another parameter in the siadis.ini,
buffer length, and it had no effect.
I have tried identifying siadis.ini as the batch file that should be
associated with the DOS window for the SIADIS.exe. I get bad command or
file. I have tried writing a .bat file that says run siadis.ini or just
siadis.ini. Again bad command or file name.
I do not want to just run the computer in straight DOS mode since I
have two
inverters and I would like to be able to toggle between two copies of
SIADIS
at the same time. I am running a Keyspan USB 4 port serial adapter that
allows me to have extra serial ports on one computer.
Any suggestions.
Cliff
www.ProEV.com
_________________________________________________________________
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--- Begin Message ---
I have considered the chain tensioner idea, just forgot to mention it. I
have not (yet) modified the frame in any way.
From: "Mark Thomasson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: EV Motorcycle
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 21:39:56 -0500
Damon, Thanks for the interesting photos. If you are still speaking to me
after my recent nomination, here are a couple of questions:
1. Would one of those spring loaded chain tensioners solve the chain
problem?
2. Did you remove any frame material to get the motor where it is? If so,
are you worried about weakening the frame? Most motorcycle frames I've
seen
have framework in that area which takes up a lot of space under the seat.
If that Suzuki comes without this framework, it is ideal for EV conversion.
Thanks, Mark T.
----- Original Message -----
From: "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 7:17 PM
> A couple of others on the list also doing motorcycles have asked to see
> pictures of Sparky. Here are some links.
.......................................
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Actually I wouldn't mind doing this. I have my hotmail account set up so
that I don't see the messages that come though as HTML just the part that
says it has been stripped off. The reason I think one person should do it
and do it off list is so that someone new doesn't get bombarded with a
million e-mails and it keeps this kind of chatter down. From now on when I
see an HTML message come through I will e-mail the person. I guess that
means I second the nomination. All those in favor send a plain text aye!
damon
From: "Mark Thomasson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: OT: HTML in Emails
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 21:27:21 -0500
> we should elect an HTML monitor to take care of this.
>
I hereby nominate Damon Henry as HTML Monitor. Do I hear a second?....:-)
_________________________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Wed, 2003-06-04 at 21:40, damon henry wrote:
>I guess that
> means I second the nomination. All those in favor send a plain text aye!
>
Man, I am so tempted to write a huge Rube Goldberg script whose sole
purpose is to waste processing power while slowly printing out 'A' 'y'
'e'
I'm resisting, so far ....
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I still do have an occasional chain falling off event
> >which obviously I need to totally eliminate.
I noticed this problem right away. It is a must do either going with your
hard tail idea which is ok for big harleys or better yet mount it to the
pivot arm. You would be suprised how little it moves. Put it down as low
as possible and mount other things above it. It will move in a small arc
forward more than up. Lawrence Rhodes
I can overcome
> >this by either redoing the mount so that it mounts off the pivot point of
> >the swingarm, or taking out the rear suspension all together and going
with
> >a hard tail. Currently I am riding with the chain tension tuned to my
> >weight and the suspension set as stiff as it will go. This works fairly
> >well, but I am concerned about what this might do in the long term to my
> >motor bearings. I still do have an occasional chain falling off event
> >which obviously I need to totally eliminate.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all,
Does anyone have any advice to offer regarding how to determine the optimum
neck angle (rake) for the front end of a drag bike? Or is there a good ROT?
This is for a special purpose drag only machine. I am also looking for opinions
on the feasability of using a 17" x 1-3/8 rim for the rear of this machine and
where to find a decent high speed slick that is wide enough to handle the
approximate 15 HP peak motor output. TIA, David Chapman.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wow. This is a perfect opportunity to make a great bike. Forget the frame
you have unless you want to modify it. Make a battery box(very strong).
Weld a suspension to it and you are in business. You won't have to worry
about making things fit. Your batteries are better than the glider. If you
make it low and feet forward you will have better cd. Lots of good welding
talent in your area.(Portland right) Put it altogether and have it power
coated and you will have something nice with a lot of range. Just pick out
a front and rear suspension in the weight carrying range of all your
components. Here are some examples.
http://www.voidstar.com/bff/images/recped.jpg A guy having fun with a very
sweet ride.
http://www.voidstar.com/bff/ffoneoff.html#RecPed A bunch more. Very easy
to put a fairing on.
You have the right components for a very nice project. 48v would be fun but
72v would be some tire smokin fun. Lawrence Rhodes.......
> A few notes:
>
> If it is a series wound motor (no regen) then don't remount the motor,
> just add a tensioner on the bottom side of the chain. Full torque will
> tend to compress the rear a bit more than normal (squat), but it
> shouldn't be too bad. If you have a lot of regen then you probably need
> to get a different layout.
>
> Alternately, do a jackshaft. I think the minibike from Hell had one
> (www.manzanitamicro.com). Then locate the front sprocket at or very near
> the pivot.
>
>
> 200 battery amps max on those NiCads. After Ralph had his way with them,
> they probably don't like >200A even more than stock.
>
> As for charging:
> At 48V, can you use a 2:1 stepdown transformer off of 120VAC and give it
> "manners" to get it close to 64VDC for charging? Or a Sorensen 80-13
> (80VDC, 13A) power supply can be had for $300 off eBay pretty regularly,
> and you could even add brains to it later. I have one for my 40Ah cells.
>
> Seth
>
> damon henry wrote:
> >
> > A couple of others on the list also doing motorcycles have asked to see
> > pictures of Sparky. Here are some links.
> >
> > Here are a few shots of it stripped down. Note - the pictures are in
pairs,
> > the second is a low resolution version.
> > http://home.attbi.com/~damonhenry/DCP_0033.JPG
> > http://home.attbi.com/~damonhenry/DCP_0033_sm.jpg
> >
> > Here are the NiCads out of Ralphs car that I am still trying to figure
out
> > if I can use.
> > http://home.attbi.com/~damonhenry/DCP_0034.JPG
> > http://home.attbi.com/~damonhenry/DCP_0034_sm.jpg
> >
> > This is one 6 volt module sitting on the seat. I am trying to figure
out
> > where to put 8 of them.
> > I should be able to get 4-6 of them where the current batteries are.
After
> > that I am considering some kind of saddle bag, and/or hanging behind the
> > back seat arraingement. At 28 pounds a piece I have to be careful where
I
> > put the weight. I was consdering shortening the seat, but then the kids
> > couldn't get rides anymore :-) The other option is to buy a larger
glider.
> > These NiCads have really thrown a wrench in my thinking. LiIons or
NiZN
> > would have fit where my current pack is, but I was looking at $1200 -
1800
> > worth of batteries. Ralph gave me these for nothing but the time it
took to
> > get them out of his garage, so it is worth trying to make them work.
> > http://home.attbi.com/~damonhenry/DCP_0035.JPG
> > http://home.attbi.com/~damonhenry/DCP_0035_sm.jpg
>
> <snipped out lots, but left some for context>
>
> Notice I adjusted the subject line...
> >
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Any time you see increased circuit complexity, you have to ask yourself,
> "Why did they add those extra parts? What benefit did they expect to
> gain?" Often, there is a reason for them, not just bad design.
>
> So, I wouldn't call the E-cycle approach 'bullshit'.
>
Whatever architecture they choose, they still haven't delivered controllers
to people who've paid them, some of whom have just the motors...and they've
been showing us their one mock-up for how long? Not true vapor, but rather
vaporous!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
BTW, the rear wheel measurement that I posted was actual rim dimensions, not
taken off a tire. I expect that I will at least need the biggest slick that I
can fit on this rim. The expected total weight of the bike and rider will be
approx 310 lbs to 335 tops. David Chapman.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Can anyone on this list tell me which two wires are the armature and which
> two are the field? For bonus money, please tell me which wires, when
hooked
> up to a battery, would make the motor go forward, and which would make it
go
> in reverse.
>
The narrower end houses the brushes - just hook up one of these to one of
the other two leads, power to the remaining two, and figure rotation for
that! The brush cover is just a ring of metal "sleeve, so you can take it
off by undoing one screw (probably underneath) and sliding it off the end
(if you ever need to). If you're going with a high-current controller, you
probably should use a reversing contactor instead of that direction selector
that makes a bunch of sparks.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://pages.zoom.co.uk/elvis/peel.html 38 mph. Must be scary. Lawrence
Rhodes........
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http://pages.zoom.co.uk/elvis/vigilante.html very fast.
http://pages.zoom.co.uk/elvis/azlist1.html#t Many 3 wheelers. Lawrence
Rhodes.....
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi Chuck,
The welder has gone over the Avcon assembly specifications and I am not
going to worry about the side panel to much.
The design well be interesting.
Waiting on other parts, the domino effect.
I like the idea of charging access on the side like my Think.
If it needs paint oh well.
I did get my new cover hatch from Ford.
PS sorry for the late reply I did not notice your post.
Danny...
Chuck Hursch wrote:
>
> Danny, I'd certainly like to know how you're going to mount an
> Avcon inlet port to the round hole of the Rabbit gas inlet. I
> think the Avcon inlet is much larger than the gas hole, so you're
> going to have to hack quite a bit of metal out => which will
> imply a whole new paint job for that panel, and who knows how
> well they'll be able to color match to the paint on the rest of
> the car. My preference is to put the Avcon inlet behind the rear
> license plate, kind of like GM did with some of their old
> gassers - you pulled the license plate mount back and stuck the
> nozzle in. If it looks a bit messy, the license plate will cover
> it. It's on a flat panel there. And there might even be room to
> squeeze in a 14-50 inlet to boot.
>
> Chuck Hursch
> Larkspur, CA
> NBEAA treasurer and webmaster
> www.geocities.com/nbeaa
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/339.html
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Danny <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: EV SEND MSG <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2003 2:09 PM
> Subject: FYI Rabbit original gas inlet to be Avcon with Ford
> Think hatch.
>
> > The cover on the Ford Think Avcon inlet has a plastic spring
> loaded
> > black plastic cover.
> > Its mounted with 2 threaded machine screws hidden under a
> plastic
> > locking cap right next to the hinge.
> > The snapping action provides a decent seal on the Think.
> > I have been pondering the best way to create a door for the
> AVcon inlet
> > once its installed on my Rabbit gas inlet and this seems like a
> nice
> > simple way to achieve this. The dealer can get these covers
> still so now
> > may be a good time before Ford completely stops parts support
> on the
> > Thinks.
> > This is also may be of use to other home EV conversions if they
> can
> > leverage an AVcon infrastructure as I can in my area.
> > I will probably use a welder and machinist to help me with
> mounting the
> > AVcon fixture into the Rabbit.
> > Danny...
> >
> > The AVcon part I think should work is this:
> > 2IF040-010 about $175.00
> > Its orderable as I checked last week.
> > >From AVcon Corp. @ 1-877-423-8725 or 1-800-433-7642
> > Level 2, 40 amp w/emulator*
> > Emulators provide the pilot function to turn on
> > the public and private "PCS" Power Control
> > Supply Boxes. This is needed for the home or
> > enthusiast makers of EVs.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
After 6 weeks of dragging my feet, I have finally posted the Autoette on
eBay; please take a look and tell me if everything look kosher. I think I
covered all that a buyer would want to know, but I would revise it if
needed:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2418303933
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Go to your local Auto dealer and ask about their future hybrid offerings
and that they need to have plug in abilities.
I happen to be working at a Lexus dealership today and as always they
know me from my driving several various EV cars now the Think and EV
Rabbit. I tend to get a lot of auto talk. They have informed me of a new
Lexus hybrid in the works.
They got my take on the subject which was the story of Ford possibly
offering an Escape model hybrid that may could have plug in capability
for short range trips. So I encouraged them to pass the word along.
As Oil awareness starts to rise over the media's suppression of the
don't worry be happy policy of endless Oil and consume more, a lot more
folks aren't buying into the USA energy policies.
We need to encourage vocally to the dealerships what we want.
My 2 cents,
Danny...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
David Roden (Akron OH USA) wrote:
> Lesley, your response was actually ^more^ of a problem. I understand
> your point, but your post increased the anger level. Better to go the
> other way.
My apologies to all for the tone of that email and the resulting waste of
bandwidth. Most of the time I know better than that. I plead stress, but I
won't bore you with the details.
--
Lesley Walker, Wellington, New Zealand
LRW at clear.net.nz
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/460.html
http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/lrw
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It looks like the top 7 photo's don't show up. I do see the one at the
bottom though.
-----Original After 6 weeks of dragging my feet, I have finally posted
the Autoette on
eBay; please take a look and tell me if everything look kosher. I think
I
covered all that a buyer would want to know, but I would revise it if
needed:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2418303933
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all,
The success (and ok, I'll admit it, fun of making it) of the on line EV /
Gas comparisions page got me thinking.
Are there any other "complex" EV calculations that would be good to present
this way. I have a lot of "busywork" I have to do at my desk today and may
have some time to work on another project or two.
Suggestions?
James
James F. Jarrett
Information Systems Associate
Charlotte Country Day School
(704)943-4562
It takes a big man to admit when he's wrong, and an even bigger one to keep
his mouth shut when he's right. - Jim Fiebig
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It sounds a little like the "Working Directory" is different than you expect, so
perhaps it's looking for the .ini file in a different place than the one you are
editing.
If you "double-click" on the .exe it should try to find the .ini file in the
same directory.
If you set up a .lnk or .pif you can set the working directory - if this is how
you're starting it it might not be set correctly.
The program might have some rules for where to look for the .ini that make it
fail to see your .ini file, or see another one instead.
Do a "search" for files called siadis.ini to see if there's more than one of
them on your hard drive. If so, try modifying the other one(s).
Ed Koffeman
Kinetric
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Don't worry Peter I am probably just as clever at writing scripts and could
take care of it on my end. It reminds me of a very early version of
Microsoft Exchange that I took a class for. What do you suppose happened if
two users setup rules to auto reply to each other?
damon
From: Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: EV <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: OT: HTML in Emails
Date: 04 Jun 2003 22:17:55 -0700
On Wed, 2003-06-04 at 21:40, damon henry wrote:
>I guess that
> means I second the nomination. All those in favor send a plain text
aye!
>
Man, I am so tempted to write a huge Rube Goldberg script whose sole
purpose is to waste processing power while slowly printing out 'A' 'y'
'e'
I'm resisting, so far ....
_________________________________________________________________
Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
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--- Begin Message ---
http://pages.zoom.co.uk/elvis/peel.html 38 mph. Must be scary. Lawrence
Rhodes........
No thank you! And just as a note, should any of you be interested,
Elvis Payne's three wheeler archive has it's own domain now. The
above address points to his old site. The new address is:
http://www.3-wheelers.com
One of my favorite sites.
--
Auf wiedersehen!
______________________________________________________
"..Um..Something strange happened to me this morning."
"Was it a dream where you see yourself standing in
sort of Sun God robes on a pyramid with a thousand
naked women screaming and throwing little pickles
at you?"
"..No."
"Why am I the only person that has that dream?"
- Real Genius
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You really need more than 1 photo. Also, you didn't set your location,
so no one can tell if you are local so that they can come and look at
it/pick it up. I would also define exactly what you are bidding on.
Make it clear as most people will not read all the way through your
info in the first pass. Something like:
You are bidding on
* 1 47-53 autoette with the following features:
* tank turret motors
* etc
* 1 Lester charger for above, modified
* 1 additional power supply to boost lester charger
* etc
then describe history, etc.
Do a ebay search on completed auctions for a car that you are familiar
with and examine the bids for the people that got the highest bids.
good luck,
stan
On Thursday, June 5, 2003, at 01:44 AM, The Levine Family wrote:
After 6 weeks of dragging my feet, I have finally posted the Autoette
on
eBay; please take a look and tell me if everything look kosher. I
think I
covered all that a buyer would want to know, but I would revise it if
needed:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/
eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2418303933
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I think a motor controller and batteries would be a bit of overkill anyhow.
How about a large spring with a wind up key hanging out the back.
No thank you! And just as a note, should any of you be interested, Elvis
Payne's three wheeler archive has it's own domain now. The above address
points to his old site. The new address is:
http://www.3-wheelers.com
One of my favorite sites.
_________________________________________________________________
STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
--- End Message ---
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You need to find a new place for the pictures that won't cut your bandwidth.
I think it will hurt the bidding if you can't see the item all the time.
especially if the bidding starts heating up or a bidder trys to come in
late.
> After 6 weeks of dragging my feet, I have finally posted the Autoette on
> eBay; please take a look and tell me if everything look kosher. I think
> I covered all that a buyer would want to know, but I would revise it if
> needed:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2418303933
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Here's some traffic from another listserve, it discusses two more methods of
estimating the eco-impact of various vehicle types, which I don't think have
been posted on the EV List yet.
-Jay
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: Life-cycle costs of HEVs
From: "Roel Hammerschlag" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 16:55:03 -0700
X-Message-Number: 1
I second the GREET suggestion. You might also want to take a look at the
summary on our website of a Seikei University study that evaluated EV vs.
HEV vs. gasoline: www.ilea.org/lcas/taharaetal2001.html.
Let me know if you need the full study and I'll have someone photocopy &
mail it to you.
- Roel
Roel Hammerschlag tel: 206-328-3093
[EMAIL PROTECTED] fax: 206-328-6050
Institute for Lifecycle Energy Analysis
310 27th Ave. E. / Seattle, WA 98112
www.ilea.org
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
http://www.transportation.anl.gov/greet/
The Greenhouse Gases, Regulated Emissions, and
Energy Use in Transportation (GREET) Model is the Argonne National
Laboratory's Transportation Technology R&D Center's method to "To fully
evaluate energy and emission impacts of vehicle technologies, the fuel cycle
from wells to wheels and the vehicle cycle through material recovery and
vehicle disposal".
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------
I hope this is helpful in winning over some more EV skeptics, but the
Japanese study purports to show that 'Coal-Fired' EVs result in just barely
lower CO2 emissions than gasoline ICEs. (Of course this ignores off-peak
charging, etc..)
Charge Forward,
Jay Donnaway
State Recycling Coordinator
Office of Environmental Management
Georgia Department of Community Affairs
60 Executive Park South, NE
Atlanta, GA 30329-2231
404-679-3161
fax 679-0646
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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On 4 Jun 2003 at 18:13, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> The question still needs to be answered by US Battery engineers.
I've asked this question too, and IIRC the answer seems to be that they
don't like estimating life because it depends on so many factors outside
their control. If you send a private message to Nawaz, he may be willing to
give you an informal estimate -- or not.
US makes pretty good batteries, IMO. As with any well designed battery,
cycle life depends somewhat on the design, but much more on how you treat
them.
USBMC has supported the EV community for a long time. Just try calling up a
factory rep at Trojan and asking him to ship you 16 batteries for your EV.
Good luck. All he'll do is tell you to call your dealer.
But USBMC will deal with you directly, and ship the batteries right to your
driveway. Or they'll arrange for you to pick them up at a local dealer, at
a good and fair price. You want L terminals? Automotive posts? Would you
rather have a one-piece triple "speed cap" or separate twist-off cell caps?
No hassles. They'll give you whatever you want.
Disclaimer: I'm not connected with USBMC in any way, but I've purchased
batteries from them and have been fairly well satisfied.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation, or
switch to digest mode? See http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
1991 Solectria Force 144vac
1991 Ford Escort Green/EV 128vdc
1970 GE Elec-trak E15 36vdc
1974 Avco New Idea rider 36vdc
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Thou shalt not send me any thing which says unto thee, "send this to all
thou knowest." Neither shalt thou send me any spam, lest I smite thee.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
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Hi Damon,
I should start by saying I was a mechanic on an AMA Superbike team long
ago, so I admittedly might be a bit more picky than others about how
Sparky is shaping up. I do understand you're in the early stages of a
long running project. I admire your willingness to experiment your way
to success. Here's my take on how to stay on a productive path.
Damon Henry wrote:
> Here are a few shots of it stripped down. Note - the pictures are in
> pairs, the second is a low resolution version.
> http://home.attbi.com/~damonhenry/DCP_0033.JPG
> http://home.attbi.com/~damonhenry/DCP_0033_sm.jpg
OK, the first thing that leaps out is what the heck is the motor doing
there? Doesn't an A89 weigh something like 50 lbs? Placing weight high
and rearward is a bad idea on a motorcycle.
> This is one 6 volt [NiCad] module sitting on the seat. I am trying to
> figure out where to put 8 of them.
My advice is to forget the NiCads. They're too big to fit enough of
them. Even if you mount some in front of your knees (which you may have
to do, regardless of what type of battery you use), you'll still have to
carry several like saddlebags. Again it's that high and rearward thing,
which is worse on a little bike like yours than it would be on a big
touring bike.
And then there's the fact that they're flooded. If any batteries aren't
tucked within the frame tubes, they'll get holes ground in them if you
go down. Do you want to be sliding on electrolyte-covered asphalt?
That stuff might not be too bad on your skin if contact is brief, but
it's a different matter entirely if you're talking about an open wound.
This is perhaps the strongest argument in favor of lead AGMs. You can
get surplus Hawker 13 Ah units for $20 each.
> Here is a closeup of my motor mount and chain. I like the placement
> of the motor as it leaves a nice area for batteries, but it has
> caused me some
> grief. I mounted the motor on the frame not realizing that
> this would make
> the chain go slack when the rear suspension compresses. I
> can overcome this
> by either redoing the mount so that it mounts off the pivot
> point of the
> swingarm, or taking out the rear suspension all together and
> going with a
> hard tail. Currently I am riding with the chain tension
> tuned to my weight
> and the suspension set as stiff as it will go. This works
> fairly well, but
> I am concerned about what this might do in the long term to my motor
> bearings. I still do have an occasional chain falling off
> event which
> obviously I need to totally eliminate.
> http://home.attbi.com/~damonhenry/DCP_0036.JPG
> http://home.attbi.com/~damonhenry/DCP_0036_sm.jpg
It may be possible to leave the motor where it is *if* you counteract
its placement with batteries elsewhere. It's the final cg that matters.
However, you're making things very difficult for the chain. I'm not
sure what you mean about tuning the chain tension to your weight. The
chain should *never* be tight - always at least a little slack, no
matter what the suspension does. Adjust it at the point in the
suspension travel where it's least slack.
A jackshaft is probably your easiest solution, if a bit lacking in
elegance. It will hurt efficiency a little. It may be the only
practical solution - the motor's diameter prevents it from getting the
sprocket close enough to the swing arm pivot centerline without
redesigning the frame and swing arm.
Don't even consider a hard tail. Motorcycles don't have hard tails,
some two-wheeled fashion statements have hard tails. (Dear me - did
that sound anti-Harley? Shame on me!) Think about it. Would you
consider removing the rear suspension of your car? Even if oxcart
technology was somehow considered cool? Besides, you'd hate the ride,
even after you invested in a tall, soft 16" rear wheel and tire.
If you stay with your current glider, you will have some difficulty
fitting everything you need due to its size. (Or not, see below.) But
then, starting from scratch with a new glider may take longer than
fixing what you have.
Be very careful with your cg placement. Too high and the wheels won't
feel planted in a turn. (Like my old BMW 750 /5 - yes, they have a
rather high cg contrary to the marketing blah-blah.) Too low and you
have a bike so stable it won't want to change direction easily. (Like
some of the old Ducatis.) Look at how the latest sport bikes are laid
out, accounting for the relative weights of the various components. My
gut tells me you want your cg a little below and forward of your shins
while in a riding position. (I've seen no actual cg placement data.)
IMHO, it's time to start thinking a little more boldly. It's really not
that big a deal to whack off the whole bottom of the frame and replace
it with a structural battery box. It would make putting things where
you want them *much* easier. It would also help your particular frame's
strength, because it currently has no direct connection between the
steering head and swing arm pivot. Your type of frame was abandoned
long ago.
If you take this approach you'll need to consider things you might not
otherwise. Like ground clearance, both vertical and during cornering
(with bumps). How close can you get to the front wheel? (How much does
the fork flex during max braking? You'd be surprised.) Cover those
bases, plan your new battery box and start cutting. I think you'll have
a much better bike.
HTH, and please keep us posted on progress.
Chris
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[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> On the henney, there is a 3 "step" relay system. If you put the car
> in "neutral" you can watch the voltmeter as you "step" through the
> voltages. When the key is off, the voltmeter shows the "full" pack
> voltage (close to 80v on this pack).
>
> As soon as you turn the key, you hear the relays "kick" and the
> voltage drops to around 24v.
24v is an unexpected number. I wonder just what this voltmeter is
measuring? Can you trace down the wires and find out where they go? Or,
can you connect your own voltmeter to (say) the pack or the motor, and
see if the dash voltmeter matches it?
> As you press down the "gas" you eventually hear the relay switch
> and the voltage changes to about 40v. Push farther down, and it
> eventually switches to "full" (80 v).
I would expect it to have a 4-step controller: Off, low, medium, and
high. Off is obviously 0 volts to the motor. Low is half pack voltage
thru a big resistor. Medium is half pack voltage without the resistor,
Full is full pack voltage, again with no resistor.
If you have it in neutral with the "gas" pedal released, the motor
should be off. If your voltmeter is on the motor, it should read zero.
Step down a little, and the motor should start and slowly wind up to
speed. A voltmeter on the motor would read something low when the motors
first starts, rising to about 1/2 of pack voltage after the motor is
wound up.
Step down more, and the motor will accellerate from a stop to 1/2 speed
much quicker, and a voltmeter on the motor will show a step change to
1/2 pack voltage.
Step down all the way, and a voltmeter on the motor should read full
pack voltage. The motor will speed up very fast and head for a very high
rpm. Don't hold it down for more than a few seconds! The motor can be
destroyed from excessive rpm!
> BUT if I put the car in "gear", when I press down on the gas, the
> voltage reads very low, about 20v, and never goes over that, no
> matter how hard I push the gas down. The car tries to move, but it
> is very slow, and unless I am on level ground I am not moving to
> speak of.
This could be a bad connection, or a dead or bad battery somewhere in
the pack. Have someone measure each battery under load (there are
battery testers that can do this).
Is there an ammeter in the car? It will tell you how much current your
motor is drawing. It should be 100s of amps when starting out. If it's
not, then again I'd look for a loose connection or bad battery.
> I also noted that the car SEEMS to have more power in reverse than
> forward. But there should be no difference between the two.
In most cars, reverse is the lowest gear, so it WILL have more torque
(but less speed) in reverse.
--
Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
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