EV Digest 2913

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Auto Transporters who will move a Sparrow
        by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) Re: Auto Transporters who will move a Sparrow
        by Lonnie Borntreger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) Re: Electriclouie - another dragster? 
        by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) RE: A/C in a Henney?
        by Andrew King <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) Re: Finish charge question
        by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) Re: Power supplies as chargers?
        by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) plated bus bars?
        by "Bryan Avery" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) Re: Noisy Vacuum Pump
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) RE: Auto Transporters who will move a Sparrow
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 10) Re: Electriclouie - another dragster?
        by "Shawn Lawless" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) Re: Interesting meeting with an EV oldtimer.  NO BI GAS! Parts for sale.  
        by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) RE: plated bus bars?
        by "Chris Tromley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Re: Public design charger, patents...
        by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) Bolder TMF Cells
        by "T Humphrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) Re: plated bus bars?
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 16) Re: Bolder TMF Cells
        by FRANK GIANNANDREA <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) NEDRA Power of DC T-shirts available
        by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) RE: Noisy Vacuum Pump
        by David Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) Re: Noisy Vacuum Pump
        by "Dave Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) ZEV progress photos
        by Seth Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) RE: New EV to go into production
        by "Keith Vogt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) Re: NEDRA Power of DC T-shirts available
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 23) Re: ZEV progress photos
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 24) Re: New EV to go into production
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 25) Re: Cheap DC to DC converter.
        by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 26) RE: New EV to go into production
        by "Jorg Brown" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 27) Re: Noisy Vacuum Pump
        by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 28) Re: Public design charger, patents...
        by "Paul Compton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 29) Re: Life with a Jet Electrica EV report
        by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 30) Re: Electric mowers
        by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 31) Re: ZEV progress photos
        by Seth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message --- So, anyone know of a car hauling company that will move a non-functioning Sparrow from MI to WA?
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com

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You could try auto-transporter.com

Lonnie

On Thu, 2003-07-10 at 21:16, John G. Lussmyer wrote:
> So, anyone know of a car hauling company that will move a non-functioning 
> Sparrow from MI to WA?
> --
> John G. Lussmyer      mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....               
> http://www.CasaDelGato.com

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The other half probably went to cover that bet with Dennis ;-)

> but Louie only coughed up
> 1/2 of what we agreed on. It was nice to get the help, but I would not have
> taken on as aggressive a rebuild had I known he was only going to pay half.
> It put me in a major pinch financially.


Chip Gribben
NEDRA Power of DC
http://www.powerofdc.com

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- >Subject: A/C in a Henney?
>From: "James Jarrett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 16:14:14 -0400
>
>While re-building the rear battery box on my Henney, I noted that the >tail end of the motor has a pully attached. Since the motor is in the >back (with 1/2 the batteries) I was wondering what they meant by >putting that on there.
>
>At first, I thought it was so you could put on a small car alternator >to charge the accessory battery, and it could do that, but then I >thought, I bet this could be used to run a vaccum pump and provide some >(if not great)air condioning.
>
>James


James
Ben Graves put AC into his '78 VW bus. I know he got some of the components from Vintage Air.
The neatest thing about his installation is that he has the compressor belted to the motor with an electric clutch on the motor shaft.
This clutch is energized when he steps on the brake pedal so he has regenerative braking. He says it keeps the bus cool in stop and go driving around St. Petersburg. No good at highway speeds but that's when he opens up the safari windshields.
I'm inclined to believe him, as a Michigan resident I have to listen when a Florida resident talks about A/C.
Get in touch with me off list and I'll get you in touch with him...


--
Andrew King
Ann Arbor Michigan
technology is the answer, what was the question?

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--- Begin Message ---
You are undercharging.

Raise the end voltage a couple volts and try it again.

Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 9:56 AM
Subject: Finish charge question


> Sorry to fire questions quicker than you folks can provide answers but...
>
> My new 72v pack of US125s is behaving a bit differently during finish than
my severly abused old pack. Not a suprise.
> When charging the old pack, I did constant current of 14 amps to 87v and
then dropped back to 5.6 amps until the voltage rose less then 0.1v/hr. The
voltage was normally around 89v or 90v at this point. I have my charger set
to shut down if the voltage gets above 91v as a safety. The finish took
about 3 hrs. When I charge my new pack, the voltage is still rising at about
0.025v / minute between 90 and 91 volts and then my charger shuts off. This
is happening in about an hour.
>
> Am I under charging or over charging? Should I increase the 91v limit?
That's easy. Should I reduce the 5.6 amps? That's a bit more difficult but
doable. 5.6 amps is about 2.5% of a 225ah battery.
>
> thanks,
> Steve
>
>
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Page 10 says the short circuit current is 100% of the rated current, so it
will work as a battery charger.

The voltage trim is only 10% so you will need to be careful choosing the sum
voltage of the modules.

The Max charging current will be limited by the lowest current module in
series.

It says the modules share current within 1% when operated in parallel,
therefore that is an option.

Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


----- Original Message -----
From: "The Levine Family" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 6:33 PM
Subject: Power supplies as chargers?


> With all the discussion of charger selections, I was wondering what the
> gurus think of using power supplies for pack charging? I happened upon
this
> page: http://www.power-one.com/resources/products/datasheet/modhp.pdf -
> couldn't you choose the outputs that total what you want and put them in
> series? Since these essentially run on 300vdc, you could have one unit
that
> acts as your dc converter and disable the others when no AC is present. I
> just wonder if you can make a compensation circuit that adjust output
based
> on a temp input.
>

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I use my parking brake quite a bit in conjunction with the foot brake.
Keeps it from comming on as much.  Like every other time I brake.  It takes
up the slack some how.  Lawrence Rhodes....

----------------------------------------------------
This mailbox protected from junk email by Matador
from MailFrontier, Inc. http://info.mailfrontier.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 10:04 AM
Subject: Noisy Vacuum Pump


> My current brake booster vacuum pump is the noisiest thing in my Jet
> Electrica, and it is quite annoying.  Totally ruins the "stealth" aspect
of
> driving an EV.  I would like to see about getting something else that is
> quieter.  Any recommendations?
>
> The one I have now looks just like this one:
> http://www.canev.com/KitsComp/Components/VacuumPumpKit.html
>
> -Dave
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm trying to find a way to get a Sparrow from Northern California or
Portland, OR back to the SF Bay Area, CA at the end of July. Tried to get a
quote from auto-transporter.com, but their webform doesn't list the Sparrow.
Included details about the specific but filled out the form stating that is
was a Honda Civic (because they lack an "other" category and you cannot
submit the form without picking from their list). They quoted $750 for
Portland to SF, but when I talked with them yesterday they claim that is
based on the Honda Civic listing and they never got the comments I submitted
on their webform. Might be higher; will be talking with them today. If
that's true, then they might not be a reasonable option.

Anyone have any other recommendations (due to my short timeframe)? Best to
transport a Sparrow on a flatbed or enclosed van. Actual space requirement
is about 8'2" x 4'5" plus clearance. I've also priced out renting a 10'
Uhaul truck, but to fly up, rent and gas back comes to about $650+, plus one
day of my time (SF/Portland/SF).

-Ed Thorpe
looking for return travel from Sparrow in first leg of Eco Trakker route.

-----Original Message-----
From: Lonnie Borntreger
To: Evlist
Sent: 7/10/03 8:26 PM
Subject: Re: Auto Transporters who will move a Sparrow

You could try auto-transporter.com

Lonnie

On Thu, 2003-07-10 at 21:16, John G. Lussmyer wrote:
> So, anyone know of a car hauling company that will move a
non-functioning 
> Sparrow from MI to WA?
> --
> John G. Lussmyer      mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Any time. Call me at 800-336-1667 9-5 M-F.

Shawn
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 10:09 PM
Subject: Re: Electriclouie - another dragster?


> Shawn,
> I checked out your company website.
> You're not to far from me in Akron, OH.
> I would like to stop buy some time and check
> out your EV stuff.
> Watts a good time?
> Rod
> --- Shawn Lawless <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> > I'm not nearly as well versed in this as y'all but
> > it must be true the
> > 3000HP is right there on his website.  Considering
> > that John Force and
> > company are regularly getting a good deal of their
> > 5-6 thousand horses to
> > the pavement I'm assuming the chassis and drive
> > train required to do this
> > already exists. I must say it makes the Orange
> > Juice's estimated per motor
> > output of 235HP look downright pathetic. Taking this
> > one step further, if I
> > could get my hands on one of Doc Brown's mobile nuke
> > reactors and a flux
> > capacitor I would have 3.21 gigawatts on tap Try to
> > get that to the
> > pavement! 1/4 mile time comes in at somewhere near
> > .0493 seconds. Seriously,
> > could it be that the site has a typo. Right above
> > where it says 3000 HP it
> > says 300% greater than 30 -100 HP. This would be
> > obviously 90-300 HP, a
> > number that seems much more believable. Any
> > thoughts?
> > 
> > Shawn
> > 
> > PS: Dennis the underdog? Yeh, Right.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 7:02 PM
> > Subject: Re: Electriclouie - another dragster?
> > 
> > 
> > > Shawn Lawless wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Dennis,
> > > >
> > > > According to Louie's website and my crude
> > calculator, If I replace my GE
> > > > motors with his brushless units and my 900# of
> > Svr's with 1200# of his
> > > > battery, my estimated flywheel horespower would
> > be 4080 and my quarter
> > mile
> > > > time would be right around 5.28! If this is all
> > true I think the race is
> > for
> > > > 2nd place.
> > > >
> > > > Shawn
> > >
> > > If you think anyone of us has 4000 Hp worth of
> > motor on tap. I need to
> > > know what you are smoking!!!
> > > As you know getting the battery Hp to those large
> > slicks is not as easy
> > > as it looks.
> > >
> > > Louie's motor has never been down the strip as I
> > recall.
> > >
> > > I would love to bolt it to my Dyno and let the
> > amps fly.
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Rich Rudman
> > > Manzanita Micro
> > > www.manzanitamicro.com
> > > 1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
> > >
> > 
> 

--- End Message ---
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I got rejected from the VA DMV for NOBIGAS. They said they thought it was No
Big Ass. Then I tried NOBYGAS and everyone kept asking what NoBeeGas was. So
my tag now says ELEC CAR. Hard for the bumkins to misinterpreted that.
Mark in Roanoke, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2003 5:17 PM
Subject: Interesting meeting with an EV oldtimer. NO BI GAS! Parts for sale.


> I was comming from San Jose on my way home to San Francisco when I came
upon
> an old Saab 96 being towed.  It said Electrically Powered and it had a
> license plate that said NOBIGAS with a plate frame that said Remember
Exxon
> Valdez.  Well I was curious and so I followed them(there was a chase car)
to
> his Redwood city property.  It turns out that I was helpful because they
> needed some one that could backup a trailer.  Turns out it was an EVer
that
> has been doing it since the early 80's Chuck Olsen.  His Saab 96 has 24 6v
> batteries for a 132v system.  He needs a controller if he wants to keep
> running the Saab.  It turns out that he is in poor health and would like
to
> sell some of his EV treasures.  A 69 Saab 96 glider.  120v GE motor.  72v
> Fork Lift motor.  The corker is an Electric home built scooter that in the
> early 80's he held a speed and range record of 30 miles at 30 miles per
hour
> with two 12 volt batteries.  The bike is in parts with a rebuilt motor.
> You can get ahold of Chuck at [EMAIL PROTECTED] .  Seemed like a nice
guy.
> Will Beckett knows him.  If anyone has a controller (other than a Curtis)
> that would work with his 3800 pound Saab give him a call.    Amazing how
he
> got all that lead in the Saab but it looks good.  I always thought they
> would be a good glider.  If his health gets worse he will sell the Saab EV
> also. Lawrence Rhodes......
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------
> This mailbox protected from junk email by Matador
> from MailFrontier, Inc. http://info.mailfrontier.com
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bryan Avery wrote:

> All this talk about battery box material and corrosion from 
> matching dissimilar metals together has got me wondering if I 
> need to rethink some of my other plans.  My current plan for 
> battery interconnects is to connect the li-ion cells within 
> each strapped together bundle using a combination of solid 
> copper bus bar and aluminum heat sink.  For something like 
> this, should the copper be tin-plated (or dipped in solder, 
> etc.) or is that overkill?

If this goes back to the discussion of putting aluminum heat sinks *on*
the buss bars to improve cell cooling, why make your heat sinks out of
aluminum?  Copper is a better material than aluminum for a heat sink, in
terms of thermal dissipation.  The only reasons copper isn't used for
heat sinks in general are cost, weight and ease of fabrication.  Just
solder some copper fins to your buss bars, and while you're at it coat
the whole buss bar with solder.  Or mechanically attach the fins and dip
the whole thing in solder.  Copper hates acid, and the solder will
protect it.

Years ago the Honda factory motocross team had two seemingly unrelated
problems that were solved with a single clever solution.  Their engines
were running hot.  They wanted to improve handling by lowering the polar
moment.  They could shave weight at the ends of the bike, but they were
already at the weight minimum.  The solution was to machine cylinder
heads from solid copper.  Better heat radiation, better concentration of
mass right where it needed to be.  Normally at the end of the season
they crush the bikes.  On these bikes they saved the copper heads.

Chris

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Yes, getting a patent is more your perseverance of the legal system than the
merit of the invention. In fact the patent examiner sends "prior art" to get
around since the actual patent is how the claims are worded so there are
multiple patents that appear similar. Doesn't say much for the patent system
and I never got any money from my 4 patents, but looks good on a resume
anyway.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Otmar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 1:27 PM
Subject: OT: Re: Public design charger, patents...


> At 8:00 AM -0400 7/10/03, Mark Hanson wrote:
> >FYI, my charger patent is 6,218,812 at us-pto.gov for those interested in
> >designing a switchmode charger (1500W with fan).
>
> Oh oh, It's rant time:
>
> Not that I blame Mark for patenting it. It's well known in business
> that patents  often have value irrespective of what's in them.  But
> this is a perfect example of how dysfunctional the patent system has
> become.
>
> It often amazes me what the PTO allows to "patent".
>
> I read the claims, and out of 29 claims there are only two that I
> have not seen in previous production designs at least 10 years ago.
> Most of the ideas were in Lester chargers in the early 1980s. I mean
> 3 stage dv/dt charging? Give me a break! Of course it will be applied
> to switchers as they become more cost effective. One of the "new"
> ideas is "store a running total of a number of times a battery or
> batteries has dropped below a predetermined voltage value" and the
> other is using a infared interface for communication.
>
> What's the requirement for a claim? Must not obvious to one skilled
> in the art? I forget the actual wording, but in 2001 when this was
> patented this was all old news to me.
>
> In my opinion: A nation that grants patents like this is nothing but
> a feeding ground for lawyers.
>
> Rant off,  You may now return to your regularly scheduled EV list. :-)
>
> --
> -Otmar-
> http://www.CafeElectric.com
> Mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>

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I know that Bolder Tech went out of business. I was wondering 
about the TMF technology it seems someone would have picked this 
up. 
 
Are the TMF cells not being manufactured by anyone. I see the 
portable jump-start boxes still being sold. What's in them, 
Hawkers?

Stay Charged!
Hump


Bill Dube wrote:
>         Louie indeed went over 100 mph in a cart in the 1/4 
>mile. He smoked the tires most of the way down the strip. It was 
>impressive. He had the last of the Bolder TMF cells in it. 
>Nothing quite like Bolder TMF for drag racing. :-)





    _ /|        Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
   \'o.O'     <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
        U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com

 


 
                   

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I am not sure, but this may be what has became of this technology in 
the end.

GP Batteries Acquires TMF Technology and Facility from
Bolder Technologies of the US

http://209.41.56.193/listco/hk/goldpeak/press/p011220.htm

It seem at one point they licensed it to Johnson Controls as well.
http://mit42v.mit.edu/public/In_the_News/ Naperville_Sun_5-14-2000.pdf 

-Frank

----- Original Message -----
From: T Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Friday, July 11, 2003 9:47 am
Subject: Bolder TMF Cells

> I know that Bolder Tech went out of business. I was wondering 
> about the TMF technology it seems someone would have picked this 
> up. 
> 
> Are the TMF cells not being manufactured by anyone. I see the 
> portable jump-start boxes still being sold. What's in them, 
> Hawkers?
> 
> Stay Charged!
> Hump
> 
> 
> Bill Dube wrote:
> >         Louie indeed went over 100 mph in a cart in the 1/4 
> >mile. He smoked the tires most of the way down the strip. It was 
> >impressive. He had the last of the Bolder TMF cells in it. 
> >Nothing quite like Bolder TMF for drag racing. :-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>    _ /|        Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
>   \'o.O'     <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> =(___)=
>        U
> Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>                   
> 
> 

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We still have a few 2003 NEDRA Power of DC T-shirts for sale.

Check them out at http://www.powerofdc.com/tshirts.html

Each shirt features the Power of DC Watt Wheels car on the front and the
race sponsors listed on the back.

There are 7 XLs and 3 XXXLs left. Each shirt is $20 which includes shipping.

And we have several L and XL 2002 Power of DC Shirts left that feature a
cartoon version of Roderick Wilde's Maniac Mazda like the one on our 2002
Power of DC homepage http://www.powerofdc.com/2002/index.html. $10 each for
those.

$25 gets you both shirts which includes shipping.

Collect them all!!

 
Chip Gribben
NEDRA Power of DC Race Coordinator
http://www.powerofdc.com


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--- Begin Message ---
Mine, too!  Victor has a good solution.  Hang it in an old inner tube from
under the car.  I think he even filled the tube with water.

I think a better type of pump would work, by being be a lot quieter and more
responsive, too.  All that is out there seems to be diaphragm pumps.  I'd
think a higher speed motor coupled to a rotary vane pump would work better,
and be very smooth, quiet, and not have as much "on" time.  It'd be smaller
too!

To work good, it should have a circuit attached that ramps up to speed to
eliminate a 12V current spike.  I don't think there is enough market for me
to design one and make any money, but I could make drawings and post them if
there was enough interest.  It would take quite a while, as I don't have
software at home right now.

Anybody care to recomment a free CAD program (machanical) that will export
DXF?  Comments on the type of pump that would work?

I know some have converted to manual brakes.  Performance brakes
(http://www.mpbrakes.com/) even tells you how to do it to some degree.  How
well do they work, and what (specifically) was involved in doing it?

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Anderson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 12:05 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Noisy Vacuum Pump


My current brake booster vacuum pump is the noisiest thing in my Jet
Electrica, and it is quite annoying.  Totally ruins the "stealth" aspect of
driving an EV.  I would like to see about getting something else that is
quieter.  Any recommendations?

The one I have now looks just like this one:
http://www.canev.com/KitsComp/Components/VacuumPumpKit.html

-Dave


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This looks really cool Victor, but if I install one one of these, it will
approximately triple the value of my 1981 Escort chassis.  :)  But I will
definitely consider this for my next ground-up project, which is going to be
with all new components.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Victor Tikhonov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 12:55 PM
Subject: Re: Noisy Vacuum Pump


http://www.metricmind.com/pump.htm

$284 today.

Victor

Dave Anderson wrote:
>
> My current brake booster vacuum pump is the noisiest thing in my Jet
> Electrica, and it is quite annoying.  Totally ruins the "stealth" aspect
of
> driving an EV.  I would like to see about getting something else that is
> quieter.  Any recommendations?
>
> The one I have now looks just like this one:
> http://www.canev.com/KitsComp/Components/VacuumPumpKit.html
>
> -Dave

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--- Begin Message --- Hi All,

Just uploaded a few new pictures of my progress if anyone cares to look at 'em. a little suspension work, a little battery box work, a little motor adapter.

suspension: I'm pressing out the old rubber bushings, sandblasting everything, painting it all with POR-15, and pressing in the new urethane bushings. should look and perform pretty good once it's all back together (this summer I hope...). New springs, strut cartridges, bushings, bearings ETC

battery boxes: I have finally decided exactly what I'm doing for battery boxes in the rear. I am going to put one batt on each side in front of the rear axle (directly behind the seats), which will take some careful modification to the unibody. also four batteries in a box hanging down below the floor behind the rear axle. When it's all done the original carpet will will go back on top and you'll never know there are batteries under there! this setup will give me good structural support of the weight as well as keeping it low and centered and very close to (or better than) stock

motor adapter: because not many folks have converted a 240Z (or any other Zs) I had to do most of the adapter stuff myself. I did buy the actual adapter plate from Rod at EV Parts, but the spacers and actual shaft coupler I had to design and have made at my local machine shop. for the coupler I had my machine shop friend cut off the end of the crankshaft from the original engine, bore it out to the motor shaft diameter, put a keyway in it, bore a larger hole from the flywheel side, and press in a plug with a pilot bushing. careful sizing of the plug will keep the whole assembly from sliding down the motor shaft when I step on the clutch (plug is slightly larger in diameter than hole in flywheel). making this all work also means I have to take a little bit off the end of the pilot shaft. hopefully putting this all together early next week.

Seth

new photos: http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/240Z/Album%205%20-%20more%20progress/ Album%205%20-%20more%20progress.html

slightly older photos: http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/240Z/Album%204%20- %20nothing%20left%20to%20take%20apart/Album%204%20- %20nothing%20left%20to%20take%20apart.html


-- QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/

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The '04 Toyota Prius has an EV button, will be in production within 90 days and its 
$20,000. So, the "big automakers" now produce an EV that is actually affordable.

www.toyota.com/newprius

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I've used switching supplies as DC-DC converters by Cosel and others
90-240vac = 126 - 336Vdc. Also if they have a PFC front end they can be
operated at lower DC, about 90Vdc depending on the manufacturer.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 10:57 AM
Subject: Cheap DC to DC converter.


> A bridge makes a bad boy. An inverter makes AC from DC.  Is there a cheap
> way to make an inverter to directly convert DC to AC like a bridge
converts
> from AC to DC.  If so there are thousands of really cheap 120-240vac power
> supplies that could be used as a DC to DC on vehicles that have a pack
over
> 120v.  Lawrence Rhodes.......
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------
> This mailbox protected from junk email by Matador
> from MailFrontier, Inc. http://info.mailfrontier.com
>

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What is this EV button you speak of?  If you're referring to the "Start"
button, I can assure you the first time you press it, the gas engine
comes to life.  There is no way I know of, on the current Prius, of
which I own one, to force the gas engine to be off, other than running
out of gas.  I have never seen any indication that the new Prius is
different in this regard.

Also the NiMH battery in the Prius won't take you more than 5 or 6 miles
by itself.  I know this from first-hand experience.

jorg 

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Keith Vogt
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 8:53 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: New EV to go into production

The '04 Toyota Prius has an EV button, will be in production within 90
days and its $20,000. So, the "big automakers" now produce an EV that is
actually affordable.

www.toyota.com/newprius



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I use a CL-60 by Keystone in series with the Gast vacuum pump. I barely hear
it now compared to before. An NTC that drops from 10 ohms to .18, max run
current 5amps. Keystone-Thermometrics has different flavors of inrush
current limiters based on requirements. The pump is also mounted on rubber
poochies on the frame.

(I like this Jeep better than the previous marshmellow car-pod for mounting
stuff and sinking batteries below the floor).

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 1:04 PM
Subject: Noisy Vacuum Pump


> My current brake booster vacuum pump is the noisiest thing in my Jet
> Electrica, and it is quite annoying.  Totally ruins the "stealth" aspect
of
> driving an EV.  I would like to see about getting something else that is
> quieter.  Any recommendations?
>
> The one I have now looks just like this one:
> http://www.canev.com/KitsComp/Components/VacuumPumpKit.html
>
> -Dave
>

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> Oh oh, It's rant time:
>
> Not that I blame Mark for patenting it. It's well known in business
> that patents  often have value irrespective of what's in them.  But
> this is a perfect example of how dysfunctional the patent system has
> become.
>
> It often amazes me what the PTO allows to "patent".

About 70% of the pattents I've read would not stand up to challenge.

I had this conversation with the motorcycle designer Tony Foale when he
visited. A University department had obtained a pattent on leading link
motorcycle forks. Their pattent was for forks of greater than a certain
amount of latteral stiffness. Not a methon of achiveing such stiffness, but
the stiffness itself! This is clearly invalid, but they used the threat of
legal action to protect the pattent to shut down two rival fork
manufacturers. Tony, who was marketing his own fork at the time told them
where to go and heard nothing more.

More than once I've heard the advice not to pattent if you're an individual,
it's a waste of money.

Paul Compton
www.sciroccoev.co.uk

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If we literally wanted the cheapest cost per mile, we'd all drive
10-year old beat-up econoboxes. But the "best" choice is rarely if ever
defined by "cheapest".

My EVs have generally been cheaper per mile than my ICEs, but that's
because my driving pattern is a good match for EVs, and I've gotten good
at it. For over 20 years, I've always lived in northern states and less
than 10 miles from work. This kind of driving is murder on ICEs, but
perfect for EVs.

Except for my present EV, I've always used cheap flooded golf cart
batteries. Treat 'em right, and they last a *long* time. Cost per mile
can easily be lower than gas and oil for the same car as an ICE.

On engine-related maintenance and repairs for ICEs vs. EVs, you can rig
the statistics to get any answer you want. Leaving aside obvious
maintenance items like belts, fluids, brushes, and batteries; if it's
built right and you get lucky, nothing will fail on either your ICE or
EV in 100,000 miles. But, the ICE will be mostly shot; the EV parts will
be almost as good as new. 

Other non-engine related maintenance and repairs for EVs are essentially
identical to any other car. Tires, brakes, transmissions, lights, radio,
body work, etc. are the same for EVs or ICEs. The tire store or body
shop couldn't care less.

Much of the automotive world is pure fantasy. Our cars could be vastly
cheaper, safer, more reliable, and cleaner if people literally made
totally rational decisions about them. But, they don't. They buy style,
not utility. They believe advertising, not facts. They'd rather "feel
safe" than be safe. They don't have a clue about true operating cost.
They ignore all the dirty little consequences like pollution, traffic
congestion, and disposal costs.

Well, I'm not playing that game. EVs are a way to think for myself, to
pick a solution that *I* like and that's good for me; not one that's
good for the auto and oil companies!

And you know what? My game is more fun than their is!
-- 
Lee A. Hart                 Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N.             Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA       There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net   That's how the light gets in -- Leonard
Cohen

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I got my mom the robomower which works well if your not in a hurry. The 49lb
MTD Yardman for a 24V cordless electric was the lightest and best designed
with swappable battery packs. The Black & Decker was the heaviest at 65lbs.
If a lawnmower (gas or electric) is balanced/engineered properly, you should
be able to tilt it up by pressing down on the handlebar with your little
finger in the store. If you can't, don't buy it.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 2:27 PM
Subject: Electric mowers


>
http://www.pddnet.com/scripts/ShowPR.asp?PUBCODE=045&ACCT=0006487&ISSUE=0307
&RELTYPE=pr&PRODCODE=0000&PRODLETT=A
>
> Paste the entire URL for the article about electric
> mowers in Design News.
>
> Rod
>

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A note-

POR-15, while wonderful stuff, like most all urethane paints, has
isocyanates or other cyanide related compounds in it. It attacks the
central nervous system, so make sure you have PLENTY of ventilation. I
had a run in with a urethane paint and I wound up with Parkinson's like
twitching from it. Thankfully that stopped, and I learned my lesson. 

Seth Allen

Seth Murray wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Just uploaded a few new pictures of my progress if anyone cares to look
> at 'em.   a little suspension work, a little battery box work, a little
> motor adapter.
> 
> suspension:  I'm pressing out the old rubber bushings, sandblasting
> everything, painting it all with POR-15, and pressing in the new
> urethane bushings.  should look and perform pretty good once it's all
> back together (this summer I hope...).  New springs, strut cartridges,
> bushings, bearings ETC
> 

<snip>

-- 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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