EV Digest 3257
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: EV picture donations
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Newbie Question, Solargizer Battery Maintenance System
by Sam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: High Voltage or High Current
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed?
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed?
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed?
by Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Newbie Question, Solargizer Battery Maintenance System
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Announcement: The Voloci electric motorbike line now owned and MANUFACTURED by
NYCeWheels!
by "Ken Trough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed?
by "acid_lead" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed?
by "acid_lead" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: Heat Tape
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
14) Re: EV picture donations
by Marc Geller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed?
by "Paul Compton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Blessing in disguise. ( Charging Complexities, Simplified! )
by "Paul Compton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed? - ADRs
by "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Blessing in disguise. ( Charging Complexities, Simplified! )
by Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: EV picture donations
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: EV picture donations
by "Park, Youngchul" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) motor mounts
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed? - ADRs
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: EV picture donations - EV1 grave..........ouch
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed?
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: EV picture donations - EV1 grave..........ouch
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: motor mounts
by "garry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: motor mounts
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: motor mounts
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Wabbit Weport (NiCads)
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: Wabbit Weport (NiCads)
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: EV picture donations - EV1 grave..........ouch
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) RE: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed? - ADRs
by "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---Ryan, I have some under hood shots of the TEVan at www.qsl.net/w8rnh/tevanh Rod --- Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hi Everyone, > > I'm slowly getting my EV website going > (http://www.evsource.com) - I'd like > to put a real neat looking picture of an EV on the > homepage. If anyone has > pictures they would be willing to give me of their > cars (under the hood > shots would be cool), I'd be really appreciate. I'm > trying to put together > something that will be useful to the EV community. > If anyone has > suggestions of things that would be helpful that > doesn't currently exist, or > maybe doesn't exist "well", I'm open to ideas. > > Thanks, > > Ryan > > _________________________________________________________ > Ever seen an electric car? Visit www.evsource.com >
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--- Begin Message ---Hi, I've been on the list for about six months now mostly lurking and learning, and I have just acquired my first conversion, a 120v truck using 3 year old 6v flooded lead acid batteries. I�m getting about 20 miles of range now during the winter season which works for me as my commute is 15 miles round trip. The previous owner gave me some 24v solargizer units and they are brand new, still in the boxes. www.pulsetech.net Reading the web-site, they sound like a good idea. Their claim is �Solargizer helps to prevent dead batteries, extend battery life dramatically & maintain peak battery efficiency. It also increases charge acceptance so batteries recharge faster and with better quality.� I�m mainly curious to what other list members think about installing these units. I�m wondering if anyone has any experience with these. Good idea? or Waste of time? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Sam 88 Ranger __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now http://companion.yahoo.com/
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--- Begin Message ---Hello Peter, In any battery type, make sure you order it with the optional heavy duty post, that can with stand 110 inch lbs or torque without distorting it. I have the low profile post with bolt stud. Maximum torque is 105 inch lbs. These tend to mushroom the post and had stud pull outs!!! It's best to have a higher larger post. I have seen several years ago, a battery post terminal that has a taper hole with a stud bolt hole on top. When the nut on the stud is tighten, it put force all around the taper sides of the post plus pressure on top. This can be torque to 15 ft lb with out pull out and keep the battery post from deforming. Has anyone ever seen these units? I have seen battery post colors on the WEB, but there not taper types. Could go into the shop and start up my lath, and make these out of brass and then would have to plate them. Might get done in 2005 - 2006 or so. Roland ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "EV" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 9:36 PM Subject: RE: High Voltage or High Current > The choice between the T-105s and 145s kinda depends on the rest of your > components (can they handle they higher voltage?) > > I'd avoid the 8V batteries in this case. They loose to 105s on both > usable energy and usable power at EV current levels, plus even when you > baby them they don't live as long. > > On Fri, 2004-01-02 at 20:58, vinnybrain wrote: > > I was wondering if anyone else on the list might have some > > suggestions as to wich way I should go on my batteries for my Metro.. > > Here's the choices: > > 20x US145 > > 26x US2200/T105/SamsClubT105 > > 20x US8VGC (doesnt seem like all that much more current than my > > 13xgrp27's can already produce) > > or > > a buddy string of 26 Orbital 34 XCM's (and all its entanglements) > > > > Any help would be appreciated, > > > > Thanks, > > > > Vince Barma > -- > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > The problem with the world is stupidity. Not saying there should be a > capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the > safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself? > >
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--- Begin Message ---When I have my 120/240 VAC 4 wire plug into the car: A Large LED is on when the plug in plug in. This may be 120 VAC or a 12V by relays. I have this LED as a Blue Color on the battery charger control and one on my Indicator Console. When I turn on the battery charger, than a Green LED comes on. I come off the VAC plug in with 120 VAC going through a switch, to a fuse and then to the LED's. Roland ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 11:29 PM Subject: Re: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed? > The cord is plugged into the driver's side of the car and I dragged it > until > I noticed it. I was backing out of the garage at the time and did not pull > it taut so no damage occurred. > > If the cord had gotten under the front wheel, I could have broken the > inlet > housing or severed the cord where it came out of the former fuel inlet. > > If I had been backed into the garage and taken off forward, I probably > would > not have seen the cord until something had broken. > > I took it as a warning to be more careful when getting into the car. > > Joe Smalley > Rural Kitsap County WA > Fiesta 48 volts > NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 11:47 PM > Subject: Re: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed? > > > > Joe Smalley wrote: > > > How about 'it won't move if the charger is connected to power'. > > > Once in five years, I tried to move my car with the charger cable > > > plugged into power. > > > > ...and what happened? > > > > I don't have any interlock on my EV. But the charging connector is a > > common 120vac 15amp on the front grille, which plugs into an extension > > cord. The EV is driven into my garage nose-first. If I back the car out > > with the charger connected, it simply unplugs itself. > > -- > > Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring > > 814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering > > Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything > > leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen > > > >
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--- Begin Message ---I thought of putting a retractable real on my cord, about a mile length of it. So when I make my 1 mile round trip in the morning, I will still be plug in. Roland ----- Original Message ----- From: "Otmar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 11:18 PM Subject: Re: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed? > >Joe Smalley wrote: > >> How about 'it won't move if the charger is connected to power'. > >> Once in five years, I tried to move my car with the charger cable > >> plugged into power. > > > >...and what happened? > > > >I don't have any interlock on my EV. But the charging connector is a > >common 120vac 15amp on the front grille, which plugs into an extension > >cord. The EV is driven into my garage nose-first. If I back the car out > >with the charger connected, it simply unplugs itself. > > I had a similar connection on the back of my Sprint. I used to > parallel park it in the street. About once a year I would come home > and see the cord stretched out down the street. It's a bit > embarrassing. :-) > > It is important to note that it's better to inhibit vehicle operation > whenever the cable is plugged in, not only when power is applied. > This protects the cord when breakers trip and the cord remains > connected. > > -- > -Otmar- > http://www.CafeElectric.com > Mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > >
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--- Begin Message ---I have an Avcon on my car, and use the built-in reed relay to control a relay that breaks the "ignition" signal that enables the main contactors and the controller. The controller/motor don't get power if the Avcon handle is plugged in, regardless if the charger is running or not. A LED on the dash comes on when the Avcon is plugged in. I also have to step over the Avcon cable to get to the driver's door, making it difficult to forget that it's plugged in. Ralph Joe Smalley writes: > > Concur. > > My car has a cover over the connector inlet. I was thinking that if I ran > the precharge contactor power through a microswitch on the cover and used > the other contact of the SPDT switch to a buzzer and light, it would remind > me to unplug and close the cover. > > Joe Smalley > Rural Kitsap County WA > Fiesta 48 volts > NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Otmar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 10:18 PM > Subject: Re: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed? > > > > It is important to note that it's better to inhibit vehicle operation > > whenever the cable is plugged in, not only when power is applied. > > This protects the cord when breakers trip and the cord remains > > connected. > > > > -- > > -Otmar- > > http://www.CafeElectric.com > > Mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >
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--- Begin Message ---Sam wrote: > Hi, I've been on the list for about six months now mostly lurking and > learning, and I have just acquired my first conversion, a 120v truck > using 3 year old 6v flooded lead acid batteries. Congratulations, and welcome! > The previous owner gave me some 24v solargizer units and they are > brand new, still in the boxes. www.pulsetech.net... I�m mainly > curious to what other list members think about installing these > units. I�m wondering if anyone has any experience with these. > Good idea? or Waste of time? If you got them for free, you paid a fair price. Otherwise, you were screwed. These things are worthless. -- Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring 814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
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--- Begin Message ---The deal has been struck and the news is out! As of January 1st, 2004, NYCeWheels is the new MANUFACTURER and sole owner of the Voloci Electric Motorbike products! Some of you may be aware that NYCeWheels recently resurrected the Voloci brand by becoming the sole distributor for the Voloci. Now NYCeWheels takes that one step further and completely buys out the brand, allowing them complete creative control of how the product is built, modified and packaged. This means that Xootr LLC is no longer associated with the product. NYCeWheels is completely running the show now. http://www.nycewheels.com This is a great boon to Voloci owners present and future. There are MANY upgrade options and extensive accessory packages that will become available in the coming months. We will also be digging directly into the controller firmware coding and plan to offer higher performance firmware code for the SLA version if at all possible. Look for significant ongoing changes at http://www.voloci.com as the site is updated to reflect the ownership change-over as well as the new upgrade options and accessories that will be coming online. Another important note is that ALL the available technical documents will be available to me as on-line tech support guru for the product line. Hopefully, that means there will be very few questions I won't be able to answer. Many technical files and documents will be also be available in the Voloci Forum file section for registered forum members to peruse and download at will. We will even have a technical support computer notebook that will be preconfigured and preinstalled with the various controller software sets. This way end users can easily reinstall or upgrade their controller firmware with minimal struggle. There are big plans for this product. Expect to be very surprised as time goes on and new information, upgrades, and accessory packages are released. Who knows? The Voloci may even start making appearances at the race track! Stay tuned to the Voloci forum for details. Remember that anyone can view the message archive or post to the message board at the Voloci forum, but only registered members get direct tech support and only registered members get full access to the growing online tech file library. Be a part of the forum and tell us the features and accessories YOU would like to see available on the Voloci. We have lots of plans for this product line, but we are listening to what you want as well. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/voloci It's an exciting day to own a Voloci! -Ken Trough Voloci Evangelist 24 hour AIM - ktrough 24 hour message center - 866-872-8901
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--- Begin Message ------ In [EMAIL PROTECTED], James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I'm doing a drawing > in MS word of the complete vehicle diagram. Once I get reasonably > progressed with it I'll work out some way to make it available to those who > are interested. I'm going to put together a manual for my vehicle with as > much info as I can find - parts specs and everything I can put together. You know that's a good idea but it takes time away from the actual conversion, so most mortals let it go. Not to say that it won't save time in the long run. I'd like to do mine in a real schematic/wiring diagram software, but I don't need another learning curve either... > > >I do not plan to keep headlights on the > >always on list because of the risk of leaving them on by mistake and > >not being able to get home. I'm not sure if there are laws about > >this, but some things do not make sense to copy standard ICE practice. > > Yes, with an emergency disconnect the ICE problem of "throttle stuck, dark, > if I turn the key off I loose the headlights" is no longer valid. OK you just convinced me to leave the headlights in the "always on" section! When I leave my headlights on, it's when I put them on in daytime (often quite gray/rainy in these parts). So I should create a separate "daytime running lights" circuit (taillights and 80% headlights) that turns off with the key, and leave the normal full headlights switch function as is, always on. A polite audible reminder about the regular headlights wouldn't hurt regardless. > 3) a pressure switch in the brake lines, that under emergency braking force > would trip, but not under normal braking, and A brake pressure switch must latch off or you could launch forward again when you let up. The latching philosophy has a down side in that you may come to rest in harm's way. Same with ICE I guess, but one must be aware of the tradeoffs. Someone on this list suggested that applying the brakes may naturally pull the amps up to where the fuse(s) clears. I'd like to think so but it would need to actually be tested... like you replace your controller and contactors with one huge switch and plant both feet on the brakes... maybe need a fan on the shunt... and time how long it takes for the ammeter to die back to zero. > 4) the drivers' side door switch, since we don't want the motive power on > without a driver, and > 5) ?? what else?? My car (1973 MG Midget) has a seat belt interlock which energizes a buzzer and a light if the key is on, there is weight on the seat, and the seatbelt is not latched. A switch like this would make an intersting contactor or throttle pot interlock, though you'd want it to be a very reliable component or fail closed-contact. -GT
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--- Begin Message ------ In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Lee Hart > >I don't have any interlock on my EV. But the charging connector is a > >common 120vac 15amp on the front grille, which plugs into an extension > >cord. The EV is driven into my garage nose-first. If I back the car out > >with the charger connected, it simply unplugs itself. > > I had a similar connection on the back of my Sprint. I used to > parallel park it in the street. About once a year I would come home > and see the cord stretched out down the street. It's a bit > embarrassing. :-) Not as much as if the wall end disconnected and you dragged the cord to the job interview. Lee probably thought of that and added a BIG strain relief at the wall. > > It is important to note that it's better to inhibit vehicle operation > whenever the cable is plugged in, not only when power is applied. > This protects the cord when breakers trip and the cord remains > connected. Hmmm, good point, especially for us PFC-50 users... > > -- > -Otmar- > http://www.CafeElectric.com > Mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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--- Begin Message ---Roland Wiench wrote: > I thought of putting a retractable real on my cord, about a mile > length of it. So when I make my 1 mile round trip in the morning, > I will still be plug in. Someday, somewhere, someone just *has* to try this. If for no other reason, just so we have an example to point to the next time we hear the old joke about an electric car needing a mile-long extension cord. :-) -- Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring 814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
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--- Begin Message ---acid_lead wrote: Lee Hart wrote: >> I don't have any interlock on my EV. But the charging connector >> is a common 120vac 15amp on the front grille, which plugs into >> an extension cord. The EV is driven into my garage nose-first. >> If I back the car out with the charger connected, it simply >> unplugs itself. > > [what] if the wall end disconnected and you dragged the cord > to the job interview. Lee probably thought of that and added a BIG > strain relief at the wall. No, I was lazier than that. I simply put the cord under the charger (which contains a 2kw isolation transformer). The cord *will* unplug itself from the car before it drags that boat anchor across the garage! :-) -- Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring 814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
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--- Begin Message ---Great idea GT. I just found a great deal on indoor/outdoor thermometer at Checker Auto. For $7 you get a digital clock/thermometer with a LONG wire to the temp probe, so it easily reaches any battery box for temp. Has a backlight and can be set for degrees F or C. Has a back lit readout (only when you push button) and runs on one AAA battery. I've got this installed and we've got a cold week in Colorado forcasted, so I'll collect the data while waiting for heat tape to arrive! Chuck > > After doing some more searching, I found the same heat tape as the previous site, but at this location, you don't have to buy 50' or 100' of the stuff. > > Have ordered some to TRY as battery warmer. Will keep you folks on the list advised as soon as I test it out. > > http://www.bigappleherp.com/Reptile_Supplies/Product/Heat_Tape_119105. html > > Happy New Year! > Chuck Please do... Be a Saint and take some temperature measurements before and after adding the heaters, under same/similar conditions (or at least known ambient temp and like "just charged" or "just finished driving 10 miles" etc.) and "the battery heats up x degrees in y minutes in a z degree garage"... -GT ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
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--- Begin Message --- Ryan,
Here's a photo I thought you might like. It's an EV1 and the (300 mile range) LiOn TZero in San Francisco. Taken during Bibendum in Sept. 03.
Marc Geller Th!nk City driver (till Ford takes it away in about 6 months.) San Francisco,�6 3 � mi�fz{lu�^rם�騽�_���z��Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> From: "Paul Compton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed? Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 20:29:33 -0000 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > It is important to note that it's better to inhibit vehicle operation > whenever the cable is plugged in, not only when power is applied. > This protects the cord when breakers trip and the cord remains > connected. The factory Skoda pickup (Elmo) conversion has a compartment behind the grill to store the charge cable. In order for the vehicle to operate there is an outlet in the compartment into which the cable must be plugged. Foolproof. Paul Compton www.sciroccoev.co.ukMessage-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> From: "Paul Compton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Blessing in disguise. ( Charging Complexities, Simplified! ) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 21:05:42 -0000 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Could you provide a little more information on this connector (ratings, > mechanical, etc.)? What is it normally used for? It's a standard industial equipment connector and also often used for outdoor use. My 3hp compressor is plugged into one because the start current exceeds the capability of the 13A (maximum) fuse built into the standard domestic13A plug. Power tools intended for outdoor use are 110v (used in conjunction with a step down transformer with the output earthed at the centre-tap 55-G-55) and come equipped with the yellow version of the plug. There are four colours; Purple is 24v, Yellow 110v, blue 240v, and Red 415v (generally 3 phase). I have an example of the smallest version (in blue) in front of me now. It is officially rated at 16A. The two 'hot' pins are 5mm dia. and the earth 7mm dia. They will accept a conductor of up to about 3.5mm dia. There are 32A (fairly common) and 125A versions (never seen one). If you type 'IEC 309 connector' into Google I'm sure you'll be able to find a manufacturers website with drawings available. Paul Compton www.sciroccoev.co.ukSubject: RE: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed? - ADRs MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 09:13:35 +1100 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> content-class: urn:content-classes:message From: "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi James, Regarding the emergency disconnect, the Australian Light Vehicle Code of Practice (section 4.2 - Electric Drive Conversions) says that you should have a manual switch in reach of the driver, and that a g-shock cut out is highly recommended. I was sent my copy of the document by the engineers I'm arranging inspection through. It is a very useful document that covers things like: Maintaining Aust Design Rule compliance of seats, seat belts, windscreen demisting, brakes etc. Battery installation, covering mounting and venting. Isolating the HV stuff from the 12V stuff. It also has a checklist that asks the relevant questions about the above stuff which gets attached to the engineering certificate. Mark -----Original Message----- From: James Massey [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, 3 January 2004 2:14 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed? <snip> I'm contemplating various schemes for the emergency disconnect, varying from purchacing a big-red-button (BRB) type, and having longer power cables, to using triple contactors (which I have) and using electrical disconnect from: 1) the g-shock sensor, and 2) an industrial control BRB, and 3) a pressure switch in the brake lines, that under emergency braking force would trip, but not under normal braking, and 4) the drivers' side door switch, since we don't want the motive power on without a driver, and 5) ?? what else?? <snip> James Massey '78 Daihatsu cab/chassis under conversion. Launceston, Tasmania, Australia.Subject: Re: Blessing in disguise. ( Charging Complexities, Simplified! ) From: Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: EV <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Mime-Version: 1.0 Date: 03 Jan 2004 15:43:14 -0700 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On Sat, 2004-01-03 at 14:05, Paul Compton wrote: > > Could you provide a little more information on this connector (ratings, > > mechanical, etc.)? What is it normally used for? > > It's a standard industial equipment connector and also often used for > outdoor use. Of course standard equipment that is easy to find at the local hardware store in England is often nearly impossible to obtain in the USA, or at least expensive.From: "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 19:25:01 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: Re: EV picture donations Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Content-description: Mail message body On 3 Jan 2004 at 13:16, Marc Geller wrote: > Here's a photo I thought you might like. Marc, Sorry, you cannot send attachments to the list. The listserver filters them out. Please post photos on a website and provide a URL. Thanks. David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA 1991 Solectria Force 144vac 1991 Ford Escort Green/EV 128vdc 1970 GE Elec-trak E15 36vdc 1974 Avco New Idea 36vdc = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Thou shalt not send me any thing which says unto thee, "send this to all thou knowest." Neither shalt thou send me any spam, lest I smite thee. = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =content-class: urn:content-classes:message MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Subject: RE: EV picture donations Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 16:56:52 -0800 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> From: "Park, Youngchul" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit If you do not mind gruesome pictures: EV1's in death row.... http://ev1-club.power.net Young -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ryan Bohm Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 10:17 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: EV picture donations Hi Everyone, I'm slowly getting my EV website going (http://www.evsource.com) - I'd like to put a real neat looking picture of an EV on the homepage. If anyone has pictures they would be willing to give me of their cars (under the hood shots would be cool), I'd be really appreciate. I'm trying to put together something that will be useful to the EV community. If anyone has suggestions of things that would be helpful that doesn't currently exist, or maybe doesn't exist "well", I'm open to ideas. Thanks, Ryan _________________________________________________________ Ever seen an electric car? Visit www.evsource.comMessage-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 17:21:06 -0800 From: Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> MIME-Version: 1.0 To: EVlist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: motor mounts Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit When you guys make an adapter for your electric motor, do you keep the rubber motor mount or do you eliminate them. Are they there for vibration or torque supression.Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 12:18:56 +1100 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] From: James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed? - ADRs Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 09:13 AM 4/01/04 +1100, Mark Fowler wrote: >Hi James, > >Regarding the emergency disconnect, the Australian Light Vehicle Code of >Practice (section 4.2 - Electric Drive Conversions) says that you should >have a manual switch in reach of the driver, So I'll need to get one. Or a suitable rated breaker with a manual operator. >and that a g-shock cut out is highly recommended. The G-shock switch that I've got is an industrial one, adjustable from 0 to 4.5 G. Does anyone have a rating for a vehicle G-shock setting? >I was sent my copy of the document by the engineers I'm arranging >inspection through. > >It is a very useful document that covers things like: >Maintaining Aust Design Rule compliance of seats, seat belts, windscreen >demisting, brakes etc. >Battery installation, covering mounting and venting. >Isolating the HV stuff from the 12V stuff. Who publishes the Code of Practice? it sounds like another thing I should get. >It also has a checklist that asks the relevant questions about the above >stuff which gets attached to the engineering certificate. > >Mark James Massey '78 Daihatsu cab/chassis under conversion. Launceston, Tasmania, Australia.Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 17:27:30 -0800 (PST) From: Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: EV picture donations - EV1 grave..........ouch To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii That was gruesome, kind of like ethnic cleansing in human terms. How could GM be so cold hearted, all those viable and innocent EV1's stacked in a mass grave, really made me cringe............. Rod. --- "Park, Youngchul" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > If you do not mind gruesome pictures: > EV1's in death row.... > http://ev1-club.power.net > > Young > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Behalf Of Ryan Bohm > Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 10:17 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: EV picture donations > > > Hi Everyone, > > I'm slowly getting my EV website going > (http://www.evsource.com) - I'd like > to put a real neat looking picture of an EV on the > homepage. If anyone has > pictures they would be willing to give me of their > cars (under the hood > shots would be cool), I'd be really appreciate. I'm > trying to put together > something that will be useful to the EV community. > If anyone has > suggestions of things that would be helpful that > doesn't currently exist, or > maybe doesn't exist "well", I'm open to ideas. > > Thanks, > > Ryan > > _________________________________________________________ > Ever seen an electric car? Visit www.evsource.com >Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 12:28:45 +1100 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] From: James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 07:25 AM 3/01/04 -0700, Mike Hoskinson wrote: >Randy Holmquist (Canadian Electric Vehicles) makes up his kits with a big >breaker on the HV positive lead that has a mechanical pull to trip it, a >big black panic button in the cab. If you know the brand and model or spec of the contactor, I'd apreciate knowing what they supply. I'd be looking to fing a off-the-shelf in Australia equivalent if I can. >The contactors, relays and such are in a large gray box with connectors >coming out the bottom for all the circuits. There is a relay for the >charger port - when the signal wire is grounded by a switch in the charger >port, the controller is disabled. A similar concept to what I'm intending - a box that is hard against the battery box with all the HV contactors in it, no HV outside the battery and contactor boxes when the key is off. ><snip> >Vive la Pile! > >Mike Hoskinson >Edmonton James Massey '78 Daihatsu cab/chassis under conversion. Launceston, Tasmania, Australia.From: "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 20:50:51 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: RE: EV picture donations - EV1 grave..........ouch Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Content-description: Mail message body On 3 Jan 2004 at 17:27, Rod Hower wrote: > How could GM be so cold hearted ... FWIW, Pivco (prior to or about the same time as the acquisition by Ford) crushed the Citibees that were returned from the Alameda Station Car program. One person who was there told me they seemed rather excessively eager to carry out the process. It's hard to imagine why. I suppose there may be reasons that we don't know that destroying these vehicles, and the Pivcos, was the "correct" choice. Even if that be true, these photos are still anguishing to see. = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation, or switch to digest mode? See http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA 1991 Solectria Force 144vac 1991 Ford Escort Green/EV 128vdc 1970 GE Elec-trak E15 36vdc 1974 Avco New Idea rider 36vdc = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Open source software has fewer bugs because it admits the possibility of bugs. -- Paul Graham = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> From: "garry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: motor mounts Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 17:13:50 +1300 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit When I did mine I made a cradle that mounted the motor to the original engine mounts using the original rubber mounts, for me this eliminates and question of strength or modification of the mount itself and leaves only the welding of the cradle to be questioned. Garry Stanley Cable.net.nzMessage-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 20:14:01 -0800 (PST) From: Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: motor mounts To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii In the case of CivicWithACord, I used the original rubber motor mount. It is there primarily for vibration, but will accomplish SOME torque suppression, if it has metal underneath. (Mine seems to be a rather interesting fabrication of both). A gearhead colleague is trying to persuade me to do anti-torque reinforcement, but I confess, I'm more concerned about getting it on the road first... --- Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > When you guys make an adapter for your electric > motor, do you keep the > rubber motor mount or do you eliminate them. Are > they there for > vibration or torque supression. > ===== '92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (in progress)! ____ __/__|__\ __ =D-------/ - - \ 'O'-----'O'-' Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids? __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Find out what made the Top Yahoo! Searches of 2003 http://search.yahoo.com/top2003Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 22:34:15 -0600 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] From: Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: motor mounts Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 07:21 PM 1/3/2004, you wrote: >When you guys make an adapter for your electric motor, do you keep the >rubber motor mount or do you eliminate them. Are they there for vibration >or torque supression. I would recommend you keep the rubber motor mounts. While they are primarily there to deal with engine vibration and toque loads, they also help isolate the chassis from road noise carried through the drive line. I also suspect the rubber mounts effect the peak stresses on the transmission, gear, and other drive line parts. Basically, the mounts permit a little "give" in the system that would otherwise not be there. The design of a particular vehicle must be considered when considering the true function of the motor/transmission mounts. For example, there are four mounts on my Civic conversion, three on the transmission and one on the motor. The front and rear transmission mounts primarily handle torque loads while the motor and side transmission mount provide vertical support for the weight of the assembly. On a conventional front engine-rear drive vehicle, there are usually two side mounts on the engine for both vertical support and torque, and a tail shaft mount on the transmission for vertical support. Often when converting this type of design to electric an additional torque control arm must be added to prevent the motor and transmission assembly from rotating in the ring clamp usually used on this type of conversion. What are you converting? Thanks, Mike Chancey, '88 Civic EV '95 Solectria Force Kansas City, Missouri EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.htmlMessage-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 21:03:47 -0800 From: Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> MIME-Version: 1.0 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Wabbit Weport (NiCads) Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit James wrote: > > "If you are interested in converting your charger to MSDOS remote control, > let me know so I can keep you informed." > > Please send the info along. > > Thanks > > James Msdos remote control??? Speak to me since it's a PFC20 charger. Rs-232, with Ascci would be nice. -- Rich Rudman Manzanita Micro www.manzanitamicro.com 1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> From: "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Wabbit Weport (NiCads) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 21:07:34 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit RS-232 ASCII protocol. The PC is the master and each charger is a slave on an RS-485 network. Joe Smalley Rural Kitsap County WA Fiesta 48 volts NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder [EMAIL PROTECTED] ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 9:03 PM Subject: Re: Wabbit Weport (NiCads) > James wrote: > > > > "If you are interested in converting your charger to MSDOS remote control, > > let me know so I can keep you informed." > > > > Please send the info along. > > > > Thanks > > > > James > > Msdos remote control??? > > Speak to me since it's a PFC20 charger. > > Rs-232, with Ascci would be nice. > > > -- > Rich Rudman > Manzanita Micro > www.manzanitamicro.com > 1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266 >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 00:05:06 -0800 From: Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> MIME-Version: 1.0 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: EV picture donations - EV1 grave..........ouch Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit David Roden wrote: > On 3 Jan 2004 at 17:27, Rod Hower wrote: >>How could GM be so cold hearted ... > I suppose there may be reasons that we don't know that destroying these > vehicles, and the Pivcos, was the "correct" choice. Even if that be true, > these photos are still anguishing to see. Heartbreaking, absolutely Crushing, and not very punny at all. Of course there are many reasons, but they are all lies. The true reason is so they can start denying their existance, like the black sheep of the family. I can hear it now, the EV-What? They all had to be crushed as to avoid a clean car and oil independent revolution. L8r Ryan PS. I count 14 stacks of 6 cars each, 84 crushed EV1's. How sad, that's enough cars to set up an EV-1 Race Track, like "Champs" Karts. I wonder what (how much) they stripped out of them, look like not much.Subject: RE: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed? - ADRs MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 20:39:26 +1100 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> content-class: urn:content-classes:message From: "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi James, The code of practice is published by the NSW RTA. Is it relevant to you in Tas? Possibly. Contact your local RTA and ask them what you need to do to get an electric car registered. They will hopefully know something about it, or know where to find out. Give me a yell off list if you want a photocopy of the stuff I have. Mark -----Original Message----- From: James Massey [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, 4 January 2004 12:19 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Wiring harness for EV - what's needed? - ADRs At 09:13 AM 4/01/04 +1100, Mark Fowler wrote: >Hi James, > >Regarding the emergency disconnect, the Australian Light Vehicle Code >of Practice (section 4.2 - Electric Drive Conversions) says that you >should have a manual switch in reach of the driver, So I'll need to get one. Or a suitable rated breaker with a manual operator. >and that a g-shock cut out is highly recommended. The G-shock switch that I've got is an industrial one, adjustable from 0 to 4.5 G. Does anyone have a rating for a vehicle G-shock setting? >I was sent my copy of the document by the engineers I'm arranging >inspection through. > >It is a very useful document that covers things like: Maintaining Aust >Design Rule compliance of seats, seat belts, windscreen demisting, >brakes etc. Battery installation, covering mounting and venting. >Isolating the HV stuff from the 12V stuff. Who publishes the Code of Practice? it sounds like another thing I should get. >It also has a checklist that asks the relevant questions about the >above stuff which gets attached to the engineering certificate. > >Mark James Massey '78 Daihatsu cab/chassis under conversion. Launceston, Tasmania, Australia.
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