EV Digest 3258
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: EV picture donations - EV1 grave..........ouch
by "Paul Compton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Newbie Question, Solargizer Battery Maintenance System
by "1sclunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) UK battery suppliers?
by Dermot Dobson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: UK battery suppliers?
by Seth Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: motor mounts
by "Joe Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Announcement: The Voloci electric motorbike line now owned and MANUFACTURED
by NYCeWheels!
by "1sclunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Voloci bought by NYCe Wheels.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: UK battery suppliers?
by Dermot Dobson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: motor mounts
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: motor mounts
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: UK battery suppliers?
by Seth Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: EV picture donations - EV1 grave..........ouch
by Richard Bebbington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Newbie Question, Solargizer Battery Maintenance System
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) My conversion options - opinions needed
by "James" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: motor mounts
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: My conversion options - opinions needed
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: opinions needed
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
18) Re: Wabbit Weport (NiCads)
by Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: My conversion options - opinions needed
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: My conversion options - opinions needed
by "James" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: My conversion options - opinions needed
by Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Sniff test, Re: EVLN(UK: 230Ah CAMDEN GELs
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: head count for NEDRA pre-season Jan 24th
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) RE: High Voltage or High Current
by "vinnybrain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re Wabbit Weport
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) PFC-20 remote control (was Wabbit Weport)
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) OT : Hybrid Invasion
by "Dave Stensland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
> FWIW, Pivco (prior to or about the same time as the acquisition by Ford)
> crushed the Citibees that were returned from the Alameda Station Car
> program. One person who was there told me they seemed rather excessively
> eager to carry out the process. It's hard to imagine why.
>
> I suppose there may be reasons that we don't know that destroying these
> vehicles, and the Pivcos, was the "correct" choice. Even if that be true,
> these photos are still anguishing to see.
No duties had been payed because they were only temporarily imported. They
either had to be repatriated back to Pivco, or the import taxes payed on the
original 'new' value. The vehicles were really just test mules and had come
to the end of their useful life. I heard that some components had been
'liberated' from the project before the shells were officially destroyed.
Paul Compton
www.sciroccoev.co.uk
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Sam wrote:
> > Hi, I've been on the list for about six months now mostly lurking and
> > learning, and I have just acquired my first conversion, a 120v truck
> > using 3 year old 6v flooded lead acid batteries.
>
sounds like a good start, and maybe enough left in the batteries to get the
feel of batterie care.
> > The previous owner gave me some 24v solargizer units and they are
> > brand new, still in the boxes. www.pulsetech.net... I'm mainly
> > curious to what other list members think about installing these
> > units. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with these.
> > Good idea? or Waste of time?
>
> If you got them for free, you paid a fair price. Otherwise, you were
> screwed. These things are worthless.
ahh but they sound so good , I tried one out years ago , put it on the 2 6 v
batteries in the front of my 20 battery EV Ranger , and they where the first
to die. I later read on the list that batteries in the front get more cool
air and may die before the ones in the back so I don't think it killed them
, . I put it on my scope and it was making pulse ,. Lee do you think they
might work under the "right" conditions and what would they be. Wouldn't any
switching type charger give the same square wave out put that they talk
about , that allegedly brakes down the sulfite. Mr. Tilley should take note
, as they have sold a lot of them.
Steve Clunn
> --
> Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
> 814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
> Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
> leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm looking for a UK supplier of NiMH batteries to upgrade the range on my
e-bike (currently a a 36V 4AH NiCd Heinzmann system).
Ideally, I'm looking for F size 12-13AH cells, but �25 per cell from the
likes of Allbatteries is not a very attractive price.
GP batteries have some 13.5AH cells for under a tenner, any one have
views/experience with them?
I can get them tagged and packed, so just need bare cells.
dermot
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I really like the GP 9Ah NiMH cells. Haven't used the F cells. I used a
lower voltage limit of 1.08VPC and they worked well.
Seth
On Jan 4, 2004, at 10:26 AM, Dermot Dobson wrote:
I'm looking for a UK supplier of NiMH batteries to upgrade the range
on my e-bike (currently a a 36V 4AH NiCd Heinzmann system).
Ideally, I'm looking for F size 12-13AH cells, but �25 per cell from
the likes of Allbatteries is not a very attractive price.
GP batteries have some 13.5AH cells for under a tenner, any one have
views/experience with them?
I can get them tagged and packed, so just need bare cells.
dermot
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Depends on your setup, and how you want to mount your motor. I mounted my
motor to a plate on the bell housing of the tranny (rear wheel drive), but
the strap that goes around the motor for torque suppression is bolted to the
original rubber engine mounts.
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EVlist" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 5:21 PM
Subject: motor mounts
> When you guys make an adapter for your electric motor, do you keep the
> rubber motor mount or do you eliminate them. Are they there for
> vibration or torque supression.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Looks like a nice ride, any dealers in Florida?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Trough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 1:46 PM
Subject: Announcement: The Voloci electric motorbike line now owned and
MANUFACTURED by NYCeWheels!
> The deal has been struck and the news is out!
>
> As of January 1st, 2004, NYCeWheels is the new MANUFACTURER and sole
> owner of the Voloci Electric Motorbike products! Some of you may be
> aware that NYCeWheels recently resurrected the Voloci brand by
> becoming the sole distributor for the Voloci. Now NYCeWheels takes
> that one step further and completely buys out the brand, allowing
> them complete creative control of how the product is built, modified
> and packaged.
>
> This means that Xootr LLC is no longer associated with the product.
> NYCeWheels is completely running the show now.
>
> http://www.nycewheels.com
>
> This is a great boon to Voloci owners present and future. There are
> MANY upgrade options and extensive accessory packages that will
> become available in the coming months. We will also be digging
> directly into the controller firmware coding and plan to offer higher
> performance firmware code for the SLA version if at all possible.
>
> Look for significant ongoing changes at http://www.voloci.com as the
> site is updated to reflect the ownership change-over as well as the
> new upgrade options and accessories that will be coming online.
>
> Another important note is that ALL the available technical documents
> will be available to me as on-line tech support guru for the product line.
> Hopefully, that means there will be very few questions I won't be
> able to answer.
>
> Many technical files and documents will be also be available in the
> Voloci Forum file section for registered forum members to peruse and
> download at will. We will even have a technical support computer
> notebook that will be preconfigured and preinstalled with the various
> controller software sets. This way end users can easily reinstall or
> upgrade their controller firmware with minimal struggle.
>
> There are big plans for this product. Expect to be very surprised as
> time goes on and new information, upgrades, and accessory packages
> are released.
>
> Who knows? The Voloci may even start making appearances at the race
> track! Stay tuned to the Voloci forum for details.
>
> Remember that anyone can view the message archive or post to the
> message board at the Voloci forum, but only registered members get
> direct tech support and only registered members get full access to
> the growing online tech file library. Be a part of the forum and tell
> us the features and accessories YOU would like to see available on
> the Voloci. We have lots of plans for this product line, but we are
> listening to what you want as well.
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/voloci
>
> It's an exciting day to own a Voloci!
>
> -Ken Trough
> Voloci Evangelist
> 24 hour AIM - ktrough
> 24 hour message center - 866-872-8901
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 09:48:18 -0800
From: "Ken Trough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Announcement: The Voloci line now owned and MANUFACTURED by
NYCeWheels!
The deal has been struck and the news is out!
As of January 1st, 2004, NYCeWheels is the new MANUFACTURER and sole
owner of the Voloci Electric Motorbike products! Some of you may be
aware that NYCeWheels recently resurrected the Voloci brand by
becoming the sole distributor for the Voloci. Now NYCeWheels takes
that one step further and completely buys out the brand, allowing
them complete creative control of how the product is built, modified
and packaged.
This means that Xootr LLC is no longer associated with the product.
NYCeWheels is completely running the show now.
http://store.nycewheels.com/voloci-electric-motorbikes.html
This is a great boon to Voloci owners present and future. There are
MANY upgrade options and extensive accessory packages that will
become available in the coming months. We will also be digging
directly into the controller firmware coding and plan to offer higher
performance firmware code for the SLA version if possible.
Look for significant ongoing changes at http://www.voloci.com as the
site is updated to reflect the ownership change-over as well as the
new upgrade options and accessories that will be coming online.
Another important note is that ALL the available technical documents
will be available to me as on-line tech support guru. That means
there will be very few questions I won't be able to answer.
Many technical files and documents will be also be available in the
Voloci Forum file section for registered forum members to peruse and
download at will. We will even have a technical support computer
notebook that will be preconfigured and preinstalled with the various
controller software sets. This way end users can easily reinstall or
upgrade their controller firmware with minimal struggle.
There are big plans for this product. Expect to be very surprised as
time goes on and new information, upgrades, and accessory packages
are released.
Who knows? The Voloci may even start making appearances at the race
track! Stay tuned to the Voloci forum for details.
Remember that anyone can view the message archive or post to the
message board at the Voloci forum, but only registered members get
direct tech support and only registered members get full access to
the growing online tech file library. Be a part of the forum and tell
us the features and accessories YOU would like to see available on
the Voloci. We have lots of plans, but we are listening to what you
want as well.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/voloci
It's an exciting day to own a Voloci!
-Ken Trough
Voloci Evangelist
24 hour AIM - ktrough
24 hour message center - 866-872-8901
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 10:37 04/01/2004 -0500, you wrote:
I really like the GP 9Ah NiMH cells. Haven't used the F cells. I used a
lower voltage limit of 1.08VPC and they worked well.
Seth
That's comforting news as GP are an unknown quantity to me, did you buy
direct or from a distributor?
I'll only be drawing 12-15A max sustained (20A peak for a handful of
seconds) from a 13AH cell, which shouldn't be too much of a problem, from
the datasheet.
What kind of load are you drawing from the GP D cells, are they in an
e-bike or another application?
I've been having a look around for chargers, but haven't yet found a dv or
dt one for NiMH that will charge a 36V stack - most seem to have a maximum
voltage of 12 or 24V.
cheers,
dermot
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have 2 options on conversion, an '88 mitsubishi truck or an 87 300zx.
I would like the lists' opinions on the 300zx. It is sporty and has the
engine out already. I am worried about how difficult to fit the
batteries. The truck is in daily use right now because my Grand-am needs
a transmission but when I fix the grand am the truck would be easier.
Both are rear wheel drive and the truck has a racing history so it has
reinforcments, roll cage not comfy. Either way, I want a tire smoker.
"transmission of road vibration to chassis" hadn't concidered that.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I used the existing GM engine mounts which was for the existing 350 cu in
engine that was in my El Camino.
The engine mounts was left in place, and the motor and transmission was set
in for a trail fit. Finding that the motor mounts was too far forward, I
than weld a platform just behind the crossover member.
Did another trial fit to see where the engine mounts would be on the motor.
Check alignment and pitch and mark the side of the motor for attachments.
Broke down the motor and drill and tap two holes for each motor mount in the
side of the motor. My motor housing is over 1/2 thick. The motor mounts
are than bolted to the motor.
Another trail fit of the motor to located and mark the holes on the platform
for the motor mounts. Then remove it again, drill, trail fit again, and than
removed again for painting.
I found that bolting the engine mounts directly to the motor works great.
These mounts have now lasted over 19 years.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Chancey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 9:34 PM
Subject: Re: motor mounts
> At 07:21 PM 1/3/2004, you wrote:
> >When you guys make an adapter for your electric motor, do you keep the
> >rubber motor mount or do you eliminate them. Are they there for vibration
> >or torque supression.
>
> I would recommend you keep the rubber motor mounts. While they are
> primarily there to deal with engine vibration and toque loads, they also
> help isolate the chassis from road noise carried through the drive line.
> I
> also suspect the rubber mounts effect the peak stresses on the
> transmission, gear, and other drive line parts. Basically, the mounts
> permit a little "give" in the system that would otherwise not be there.
>
> The design of a particular vehicle must be considered when considering the
> true function of the motor/transmission mounts.
>
> For example, there are four mounts on my Civic conversion, three on the
> transmission and one on the motor. The front and rear transmission mounts
> primarily handle torque loads while the motor and side transmission mount
> provide vertical support for the weight of the assembly.
>
> On a conventional front engine-rear drive vehicle, there are usually two
> side mounts on the engine for both vertical support and torque, and a tail
> shaft mount on the transmission for vertical support. Often when
> converting this type of design to electric an additional torque control
> arm
> must be added to prevent the motor and transmission assembly from rotating
> in the ring clamp usually used on this type of conversion.
>
> What are you converting?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Chancey,
> '88 Civic EV
> '95 Solectria Force
> Kansas City, Missouri
> EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
> My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
> Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
> Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
IMO, the GP cells will do what the datasheet says, I never had a
problem. I don't recall what a F cell will do- 40-50A? In general, I
haven't had a big problem with name brand cylindrical cells (Saft, GP,
heard good things about Sanyo)
You could split the pack and charge two 15 cell strings, or center tap
it, disconnect it from the load and charge it with two chargers.
(talking off the top of my head here) Like hobby train chargers or RC
electric plane chargers.
HTH
Seth
On Jan 4, 2004, at 11:12 AM, Dermot Dobson wrote:
At 10:37 04/01/2004 -0500, you wrote:
I really like the GP 9Ah NiMH cells. Haven't used the F cells. I used
a lower voltage limit of 1.08VPC and they worked well.
Seth
That's comforting news as GP are an unknown quantity to me, did you
buy direct or from a distributor?
I'll only be drawing 12-15A max sustained (20A peak for a handful of
seconds) from a 13AH cell, which shouldn't be too much of a problem,
from the datasheet.
What kind of load are you drawing from the GP D cells, are they in an
e-bike or another application?
I've been having a look around for chargers, but haven't yet found a
dv or dt one for NiMH that will charge a 36V stack - most seem to have
a maximum voltage of 12 or 24V.
cheers,
dermot
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Man, that makes me want to be sick.
What a waste!
When I was at EVS17 in Montreal, I was lucky enough to get a drive in
an EV1. It was awesome, and got me hooked on electric cars. To think it's
come to this...
After seeing that, I'll never buy a GM car if I can help it.
As various people on this list have said,
"Stuff 'em [ re: the big 3 ], we'll build our own EVs."
Richard Bebbington
electric Mini pickup
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
1sclunn wrote:
>> The previous owner gave me some 24v solargizer units...
> ahh but they sound so good, I tried one out years ago, put it on the
> 2 6v batteries in the front of my 20 battery EV Ranger, and they
> were the first to die... Lee, do you think they might work under the
> "right" conditions and what would they be. Wouldn't any switching
> type charger give the same square wave out put that they talk
> about, that allegedly brakes down the sulfite.
The problem with all sorts of 'miracle' devices like this is that they
sell them with marketing hype, and depend on testimonials and
pseudoscience to 'prove' that they work. They never run any objective
tests to find out if the device actually works.
I haven't tested this particular product (it would be impossible to test
every product -- there are hundreds of these miracle pulsers being
marketed). But I have tested a couple different kinds, and they showed
no positive benefits at all.
I can't say that there will *never* be a case where one of these pulsers
might work and do something useful. But, I don't see any mechanism for
it.
--
Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I want to build an EV but have a very limited budget. Right now I can get a
Saturn without a motor and a Sprint both are $100 and both are early 90s.
Do to the budget I have thought about buying the ADC special priced motor
and a used Curtis 1244 that I can get for an excellent deal. I have been
told that I will be disappointed with this setup and should save for a drive
system with more power like an ADC 9" and a Curtis 1231C-8601, would take me
a year or two to save up including batteries. I have started to take
transit to work and my local drives are short. But I would keep an ICE or
rent one every now and then, my parents are about 60km away and my cottage
(www.sulltek.com/earthship) is a three hour drive. Charging at work would
never happen it's a 60km (aprox 37miles) round trip. I haven't thought
about batteries but would have to have them heated for winter, I'm in
Toronto, Ontario, Canada. I may also have to rent a garage to do the
conversion but could store some of the parts at home and the two cars are
not going anywhere until Spring.
So do I just do it and start with the conversion of an NEV or do I wait and
go for better distance and speed.
Thanks
James
* LP8.2: HTML/Attachments detected, removed from message *
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jeff Shanab wrote:
> When you guys make an adapter for your electric motor, do you keep the
> rubber motor mount or do you eliminate them. Are they there for
> vibration or torque supression.
Many purpose-built electric vehicles do not have rubber motor mounts;
the motor is hard-mounted directly to the frame. Electric motors are so
quiet and vibration-free that you can get away with this.
However, when you are doing an EV conversion, you may find that you get
excessive transmission and differential noise. This mainly manifests
itself as gear whine. For example, my ComutaVan had its motor
hard-monted to the frame, along with a Borg-Warner 3-speed manual
transmisison. The motor itself was nearly silent; what little noise it
made was drowned out by gear whine, especially in 1st and reverse.
--
Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi James!
I don't feel that EVs are not for people with
limited budget, if limited is below $8,000.
Cut out the E-meter, save $300, but ruin slacks as you
test battery charge with a hygrometer and get acid
drops on you. Cut out a $170 circuit breaker, and
have a controller failure which destroys the motor
when you take it out of gear to come to a safe stop?
Cut out batteries and have really restricted range?
Get a cheap controller, be humiliated as you watch
people with limited vision and even less patience wave
at you with their middle finger; although perhaps
Canadians are more forgiving, eh?
This statement is not intended to hurt you, but
rather to make you happy with the finished project.
You must want to have something you'll be proud to
show off, and that also doesn't turn off potential
converts.
Personally, I'd go with the Saturn. They have a
much better crash cage, and Gross Vehicle Weight
Rating. I'd be happier carrying 1K lbs. of lead in it
than a Suzuki (sprint).
37 miles is do-able with at least 1K lbs. of lead;
batt. heaters would insure the complete range.
Best of success as you embark on this!
Sincerely,
--- James <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I want to build an EV but have a very limited
> budget. Right now I can get a
> Saturn without a motor and a Sprint both are $100
> and both are early 90s.
> Do to the budget I have thought about buying the ADC
> special priced motor
> and a used Curtis 1244 that I can get for an
> excellent deal. I have been
> told that I will be disappointed with this setup and
> should save for a drive
> system with more power like an ADC 9" and a Curtis
> 1231C-8601, would take me
> a year or two to save up including batteries. I
> have started to take
> transit to work and my local drives are short. But
> I would keep an ICE or
> rent one every now and then, my parents are about
> 60km away and my cottage
> (www.sulltek.com/earthship) is a three hour drive.
> Charging at work would
> never happen it's a 60km (aprox 37miles) round trip.
> I haven't thought
> about batteries but would have to have them heated
> for winter, I'm in
> Toronto, Ontario, Canada. I may also have to rent a
> garage to do the
> conversion but could store some of the parts at home
> and the two cars are
> not going anywhere until Spring.
>
> So do I just do it and start with the conversion of
> an NEV or do I wait and
> go for better distance and speed.
>
> Thanks
>
> James
> > * LP8.2: HTML/Attachments detected, removed from
> message *
>
=====
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
(in progress)! ____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? Are you
saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Find out what made the Top Yahoo! Searches of 2003
http://search.yahoo.com/top2003
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
<<I want to build an EV but have a very limited budget.....Charging at work
would never happen it's a 60km (aprox 37miles) round trip. I haven't thought
about batteries but would have to have them heated for winter, I'm in
Toronto, Ontario, Canada. I may also have to rent a garage to do the
conversion but could store some of the parts at home and the two cars are
not going anywhere until Spring.>>
Better to buy an already-done conversion, usually for less than the parts in it
would run when new: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/geobook.html and keep an
eye on eBay for an occasional EV for sale. Wouldn't recommend the NEV route
unless you do it to get around laws while making a full-speed EV.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Joe Smalley writes:
>
> I was planning on posting an application note on the web site, but I have
> not gotten that far yet.
>
> If you are interested in converting your charger to MSDOS remote control,
> let me know so I can keep you informed.
Joe,
I'm interested in this information too. It could come in handy when I
get back to the charger controller node for my BMS.
Ralph
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
James wrote:
> I want to build an EV but have a very limited budget.
Hi James! Welcome to the EV list.
I built my first EV for about $1000, using a vehicle I already had.
Surplus aircraft generator, a dozen golf cart batteries, and a home-made
contactor controller and battery charger. I used it to commute to work
for two years. When I did it (in 1978-80), there was no EV list to help
me -- I had to make all the mistakes myself :-)
> Saturn without a motor and a Sprint both are $100 and both are early
> 90s.
The key is to make sure you pick a 'donor' vehicle that is basically
sound and doesn't need a lot of repairs. And, be sure it is a car you
like!
> Due to the budget I have thought about buying the ADC special priced
> motor and a used Curtis 1244 that I can get for an excellent deal.
That's a pretty small motor and controller; only suitable for a very
small NEV-type car. For example, the 1980's ComutaCar had this size
motor and controller, and could only muster about 40 mph in a 1400 lbs
car.
Though, you might be able to use TWO of these motors, if you have the
mechanical skill to couple them up. They have the advantage of being
shunt wound, which means you really don't need a sophisticated
controller. It can be as simple as a couple contactors and a field
rheostat.
> I have been told that I will be disappointed with this setup and
> should save for a drive system with more power like an ADC 9" and
> a Curtis 1231C-8601
This pair is kind of the opposite extreme -- it's what you'd use if you
want to meet or beat the performance of the original engine.
> I haven't thought about batteries but would have to have them heated
> for winter, I'm in Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
Or, at least put them in insulated boxes. If you drive every day, waste
heat from charging and driving can keep them warm.
> I may also have to rent a garage to do the conversion but could
> store some of the parts at home and the two cars are not going
> anywhere until Spring.
Lacking a garage is a big pain, but still possible. Without one, you
should stick to a car that others have converted before, where you can
get a kit or at least good guidance on exactly what needs to be done.
--
Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
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--- Begin Message ---
Thanks everyone for your honest opinions, at this point I just realy want an
EV. I'll just have to keep getting out of debit and see what next year
brings. I've thought about selling my car to come up with some cash but I
was checking it's current value and it's not worth very much.
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--- Begin Message ---
Start small. Build an electric bike or scooter. You can learn a lot
this way, what works, what doesn't. How to care for batteries, etc.
It's an economical way to learn the lessons that can be expensive with a
car size EV. Besides, they are fun AND cheap.
This way you can save up or buy parts as the good deals show up.
Buying a used conversion is also a good idea, the price is usually much
less than the parts are worth. Even if you don't like the used EV, you
can strip the parts and build your own. Of course they normally come
with the warning "Needs Batteries".
On Sun, 2004-01-04 at 20:44, James wrote:
> Thanks everyone for your honest opinions, at this point I just realy want an
> EV. I'll just have to keep getting out of debit and see what next year
> brings. I've thought about selling my car to come up with some cash but I
> was checking it's current value and it's not worth very much.
--
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The problem with the world is stupidity. Not saying there should be a
capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the
safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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--- Begin Message ---
Okay, Lee? Rich? Others? What am I missing, as
these are billed as the greatest thing since sliced
bread? Gels have been around forever as motorcycle
batts. Calcium as a catalyst-- been there, done that.
So it sounds like we need a test bed EV to be a guinea
pig, and exchange (a depreciating dollar) rates with
the pound? Hmmm, how many time zones do I cross as I
call?
--- Bruce EVangel Parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> EVLN(UK: 230Ah CAMDEN GELs, ?no equalisation
> necessary?)
> [The Internet Electric Vehicle List News. For Public
> EV
> informational purposes. Contact publication for
> reprint rights.]
> --- {EVangel}
>
http://www.emediawire.com/releases/2003/12/emw94040.htm
> Press
> Releases for December 13, 2003
> NEW GELLED ELECTROLYTE BATTERIES FROM CAMDEN
> ELECTRONICS
>
> Camden Electronics has launched a new range of valve
> regulated
> lead acid (VRLA) batteries featuring gelled
> electrolyte
> construction for completely spill and leak proof
> operation.
>
> (PRWEB) December 11 2003--Camden�s new BEG series
> batteries are
> offered in 6 and 12V versions with a wide range of
> capacities
> from 7.5 up to 230Ah. The gelled electrolyte
> construction offers
> numerous advantages over absorbent glass mat (AGM)
> construction
> in many applications. Completely maintenance free
> and sealed, BEG
> series batteries offer increased durability and deep
> cycle
> ability for heavy duty applications. Features
> include zero
> stratification due to immobilised electrolyte, fully
> tank formed
> plates, valve regulated (2.5psi maximum internal
> pressure),
> multi-position usage, UL94V0 case and cover (ABS on
> request), low
> self discharge characteristics, and CE/UL approvals.
>
> Specifications include design life of 12 years,
> operating
> temperature range from -20 to +50 C, calcium/tin
> lead alloy grid,
> fully tank formed flat pasted plates, microporous
> duroplastic
> separator and analytical grade purity sulphuric acid
> electrolyte.
> Various types of terminal options are available
> including lead
> flag, automotive, J type, copper flag, J type
> adapter and insert.
> Insert terminals are fabricated from brass with
> copper, nickel
> and silver plating yielding excellent mechanical,
> electrical and
> corrosion resistant properties.
>
> Gelled electrolyte batteries offer a number of
> advantages over
> AGM types and can be used in a wide variety of
> applications.
> Advantages include full recovery from deep discharge
> even when
> the battery is not recharged immediately, ideal for
> repeat
> cycling (eg daily use), excellent performance over
> long charges,
> good tolerance in higher temperature applications
> and suitable
> where mains power is unstable. Gelled batteries also
> offer
> improved charge acceptance due to low internal
> resistance, high
> resistance to water loss with the correct charging
> set up,
> ultra-stable polymer separator with glass mat for
> increased
> performance, high resistance to shorting due to
> superior
> mechanical strength of the polymer separator and
> increased
> tolerance to poor charging parameters. Batteries can
> also be
> discharged even when full recharge has not been
> achieved with no
> loss of battery capacity.
>
> With no equalisation charge necessary and reduced
> self discharge,
> gelled electrolyte batteries are ideal in many
> applications,
> particularly cycling/float service, residential,
> telecommunications, refrigeration, photovoltaic,
> solar and wind
> power, engine starting, wheelchair, electric
> vehicle, floor
> cleaning machines, water pumping, golf caddy,
> portable medical
> equipment, cathodic protection, boats and general
> marine,
> navigation aids and many other deep cycle uses.
>
> Camden Electronics Ltd., based at St. Albans,
> Hertfordshire, UK,
> is a leading manufacturer & supplier of PCB terminal
> blocks,
> fuses & fuseholders, sealed lead acid batteries,
> LEDs, miniature
> switches, interface modules, enclosures, IC & PLCC
> sockets and
> relay bases for the electronics, telecommunications,
> lighting,
> and electrical industries. The company has ISO 9002
> accreditation
> and exports a significant proportion of its
> production to Europe
> and the Far East.
>
> Information from Camden Electronics Ltd., 15 Porters
> Wood, Valley
> Road Industrial Estate, St. Albans, Hertfordshire,
> AL3 6PQ,
> England. Tel.: +44 (0)1727 864437 Fax: +44 (0)1727
> 855400.
> Email: info @camdenelec.com Web site:
> http://www.camdenelec.com
> Press information from: Tim Jennings, Marshall
> Jennings PR Ltd,
> Wyvols Court, Swallowfield, Reading, Berkshire, RG7
> 1WY, England.
> Tel: +44 (0)118 988 0288 Fax: +44 (0)118 988 0388.
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> -
>
>
>
>
> =====
> ' ____
> ~/__|o\__
> '@----- @'---(=
> . http://geocities.com/brucedp/
> . EV List Editor & RE newswires
> . (originator of the above ASCII art)
> =====
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard
> http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree
>
=====
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
(in progress)! ____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? Are you
saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Find out what made the Top Yahoo! Searches of 2003
http://search.yahoo.com/top2003
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It looks like I will make it as crew for the "Gone Postal" team
it's 18 Deg F here in Kingston Wa.. Lee Hart. come and get your winter weather
out of here please!!!
Goldie has not moved in weeks.
We are racing in 3 weeks... man this does not seam right!!.
Bob Rice wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Seth Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2003 9:52 AM
> Subject: head count for NEDRA pre-season Jan 24th
>
> > Ok, I am still looking to buy a ticket. Do we have a current headcount?
> >
> > Seth A
> >
> Hi EVerybody;
>
> Count me in, got Jet Blue passes in hand, goin' out Fri, home Mon.,
> staying at the Cannery Hotel, near the strip, DRAG strip, that is. Doing
> some of the sites, time permitting, getting a cheepo Thrigfty Car rental. A
> mini Vavation, should be fun!See ya all there?
>
> Sayin' Seeya and meaning it.
>
> Bob
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--- Begin Message ---
Hello list,
Thanks for the response Peter. I think that your right in
eliminating the 8V's from consideration early in comparison to 105's
or 145's. I saw their current rating as only marginally better than
the 13xgrp27's I'm already running and thought that there just was'nt
a big enough gain in Ah capacity to justify changing to them...
despite the getting of lots of volts in the same size/wt package as
other options. As for the power handling aspects of it, my controller
is a Raptor 1200 so it can handle either voltage, and my charger is a
Zivan NG-3 so changing from the 156 volts it's set at now to say 120
will require it's EEPROM changed.
David Roden's address to the amount of weight were adding to this
Metro Convertible are a good call, thats why I put airbag spring
inserts in last year. They're pretty cool... CoilRight from Macs
Springs ( http://www.macsspring.com/website/coilriteframe.htm )
There somewhat easy to install until it gets to the part of having to
drill a 1/2" hole at the center of the bottom of you're spring
towers. That manuver would be very easy if one has a shop lift
instead of ramps and a great driveway like I have. The airsprings
add a pretty significant amount of lift and weight compensation to
the rear of the car. More than I expected they ever would. I was
already prepared to change out the springs to something beefier, per
the Randy Holmquist CanEV Metro Method. (Great Guy by the way!)
Before I added any batteries or airsprings the fender to driveway
measurements were 23 7/8". Just adding the airsprings un-inflated
brought the tail up to 25", pushing down with my 260lbs I could
easily get it back to the 23 7/8". Putting half the batteries in it
went to 22". Add 15lbs air - up to 24". Put the remainder of the
790lbs of batteries in, it sits at 21", I air them to 40 lbs and it
settles in at 24"... an eighth higher than I started. Pushing on the
bumper in the back and I still have full suspension travel, and
sitting my 260lbs on the tail, I can take my air hose out and push
the bags to 60lbs and the car levels out again. The bags max pressure
rating is 80 psi so this will be as far as I would want to push it.
A pack of course would be divided between the fron and back likne
most all other designs I've seen... i.e. 15 in the back 5 up front or
some derivative. I still have some weight capacity remaining up
front as I've replaced my ICE with a 100lb ADC and a 25lb Raptor, I
should use it for some lead... right?
Wich brings me back to the two choices of:
20 US145's- 29.3kwh 1400lbs maybe 1050 in the back, 350 up front.
---or---
26 US2200's- 35.1kwh 1638lbs maybe 1008 in the back, 630 up front
with spring help.
Wich would you go list?
Thanks again,
Vince Barma
(I guess it might be a good time to list all my ev projects:
`91 Geo Metro Convertible,
Bosch 750 powered 16" scooter, 36v 44ah
Leeson 2hp 12" dual suspension scooter
Franken-KettCar go kart
26" Mountain bike
Toys-r-us 12" scooter w ev warrior guts - the one that started it all!
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--- Begin Message ---
Joe Smalley wrote:
I have a PFC-20 running as a peripheral from an MSDOS 486. The software was
tested over the last week and I think I got the last glitch out of it. (Is
software ever finished?)
I was thinking of a BASIC Stamp, or something akin to that. Does
this interface board have a simple enough protocol to manage using a BASIC
Stamp?
At the moment, I'm not 100% sure wheater I'll have the BASIC Stamp
board measure current and voltage, or if I'll run a cable from the RS-232
on the E-Meter. There is something to be said for either approach.
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
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--- Begin Message ---
RS-232 ASCII protocol. The PC is the master and each charger is a slave on
an RS-485 network.
Now you have me VERY interested. Can you list the commands?
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
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--- Begin Message ---
2005 Toyota Highlander Hybrid and Hybrid FTX Concept Truck Unveiled
Today
http://www.autofan.com/newsdetail.asp?id=1032
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