EV Digest 3340
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Exploding batteries? ( was battery placement)
by Michael Hurley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Evercell cycling test reaches cycle 123
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: race video
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
4) Re: Dauphine power
by "1sclunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) alltrax control
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: alltrax control and Cursit control
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: BLDC dyno and control
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) MSN EV story
by "Jon \"Sheer\" Pullen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Pukka owner review.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: balance and battery placement
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) EV Mode Programming is ALIVE & WELL in US Prius! RE: to the 2004 list.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Unsubsribe
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
13) STATUS
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
14) Re: race video
by Seth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: BLDC dyno and control and DSP selection
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Prius Torque, an' Stuff
by "bobrice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: BLDC dyno and control and DSP selection
by Seth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) thanks
by "Mark" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: MSN EV story
by "Jim Waite" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Lee's LED LM339 circuit
by fred whitridge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: death of a DCP raptor, ?'s an' comments
by "bobrice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) ev pr
by JD & Heather <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) [Fwd: ev pr]
by JD & Heather <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: BLDC dyno and control and DSP selection
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) how small is too small?
by JD & Heather <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) o'scope
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: BLDC dyno and control and DSP selection
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: race video
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
29) Re: AC/DC hybrid drive combo? (was Re: Fisher Fury EV Concept)
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
At 11:32 AM -0500 on 2/6/04, 1sclunn wrote:
Right on David , I've "popped" a few batts in my time, really no big deal,
Exploding is what stuff with gasoline dose
I agree that working with gasoline is much more
dangerous than working with batteries. but, since
I inadvertently started this thread I'd like to
reiterate my original point. I don't like the
thought of having upside-down batteries accessed
from under the vehicle. It seems to me to be more
dangerous because, among other things, if you
short a battery or something while working under
the car and the battery explodes (implodes,
bursts, arcs, melts, whatever), you are much
closer to it and you have a more difficult time
getting away from it when you really need to.
Yes, the dangers are less than setting off a
tankful of gas, but I still don't feel like
getting a face-full of sulfuric acid vapor,
molten lead and plastic. Has all the earmarks of
a Bad Day�, ya know?.
--
Auf wiedersehen!
______________________________________________________
"..Um..Something strange happened to me this morning."
"Was it a dream where you see yourself standing in sort
of Sun God robes on a pyramid with a thousand naked
women screaming and throwing little pickles at you?"
"..No."
"Why am I the only person that has that dream?"
-Real Genius
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Derrick J Brashear wrote:
>
> On Sat, 7 Feb 2004, Rich Rudman wrote:
>
> > The MB80s are all the new good idea batteries.
> > The only Bad new version was the MB100 8 cellers.
>
> So what's the implication of the comment on
> http://www.manzanitamicro.com/download.htm
>
> about the MB100 not being a reject like the M100? Or was it just the
> particular sample you had was no good?
>
> Is there any reason to not buy M100s now?
M100 were ther old 7 cell units that could make almost 1Kwhr of power.
They had some issues, most of which were a long shelf life before we got
them. They were OK, but took some care to make work right.
The MB100s were 8 cell units, that could make about 1.1 to1.3 Kwhr for
the same wieght and a slightly different pacakage. These units, had
issues, and I was not the only one that had them. I just had Joe test
them and document the issues. These I don't recomend, But there are new
and improved versions in the works.
When ?? I don't know.
If you can get M100, do so. Most are going to be 2 to 3 years old.
There is a data collection here on the EV list that can support your
efforts.
My recomendataions are to use the MB80 or a MB100 that has a 2004 date
code. Or a M100 with a date code that is current, If that beast exists.
--
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yeah,
I'm willing to make the DVD's but no one has contacted me to send me pictures
and copies (or original) video tapes to make into the dvd.
I'm ready to go..
James
Quoting 1sclunn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
> I haven't heard anything more about a video of the drag races. I
> believe
> James Jarrett said he would edit and put them on a dvd and sell them for
> $5
> ( want a deal!!!) I have down loaded a few but with my setup this is
> slow
> and I want to show them to others ( who don't want to wait 30 miniuts to
> is
> 14 seconds ) .
>
> Steve Clunn the one with the slow computer
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>
> I'm sure you could make it handle it, but by the time you did all that,
> you'd have some SERIOUS money in it. Still, there are days I find my self
> saying "Ok, replace the contact controller with a zilla ....." I usually
> scare myself financially.
>
I just got a 24/72 volt 300 amp controller for alltrax for my local battery
store's EV boat , This thing is about 1/2 the size of a Curtis and you can
plug it into a computer and change max amp, hi low voltage cut out and ramp
. $450 , . I tried it out on the Toyota tercel that I'm doing with my EV
friend Tom and it worked very well, Got that first ride EV grin going . .
You can tell the wife your getting it for the kids go cart. :-)
> James
>
> The most exciting phrase to hear in science, the one that heralds new
> discoveries, is not Eureka! (I found it!) but rather, 'hmm.... that's
> funny...'. - Isaac Asimov
I say this all the time when I look in my wallet.
Steve Clunn
-----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Behalf Of Reverend Gadget
> > Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 3:45 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: Dauphine power
> >
> >
> > Remember Rod's concept of a sleeper? How about a
> > Dauphine ala Gone Postal. Imagine the faces at the
> > drag strip when one shows up in it.
> >
> > Gadget
> >
> > =====
> > visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I believe they designed this control for
sepex golf carts and Elec Tracs (this being
a side job application).
I plan on ordering one myself.
I made an interface circuit for my Elec Trac
that would work with a 300A Curtis series control,
http://www.qsl.net/w8rnh/etrakh/ELECTRAK.PDF
I went through all this trouble to figure out the
Cursit control was dead.
So I plan on going the easy route and just buying
the Alltrax control. More EV Ebay listing BLDC and
motors to follow..............(to pay for my EV vice)
Rod
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Oh, I forgot to mention, I'll fix the
Cursit with parts that will make it scream
with 500Amps on a go cart.
Will it blow? Who cares, just my time
and free sample parts from vendors.
Rod.
P.S. Thanks to Otmar and Rich for the schematics,
at least I'll have a clue were I can find the
resistors to crank up current limit to at least
500Amps. I may even get vindictive and crank it
higher just for the fire show, after all, I told that
spoiled kid across the street my electric would go
faster than his gas powered go cart. If I could only
convince him that his mom was the trophy, she was Miss
Ohio 25 years ago (and still very hot, like a 400Vdc
pack).
--- Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I believe they designed this control for
> sepex golf carts and Elec Tracs (this being
> a side job application).
> I plan on ordering one myself.
> I made an interface circuit for my Elec Trac
> that would work with a 300A Curtis series control,
> http://www.qsl.net/w8rnh/etrakh/ELECTRAK.PDF
>
> I went through all this trouble to figure out the
> Cursit control was dead.
> So I plan on going the easy route and just buying
> the Alltrax control. More EV Ebay listing BLDC and
> motors to follow..............(to pay for my EV
> vice)
> Rod
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rod Hower wrote:
>
> http://www.qsl.net/w8rnh/dyno/dyno.html
>
> The web site is running now, no membership required.
> Thanks again to Seth Allen for the splined shaft that
> connects from the NEV motor to the Love-Joy coupling.
> Ran the dyno on Friday all day at 1.5 Hp, keeps the
> lab warm with the resistor load bank :-).
> Rod
> You can see the 'Seth' coupling here,
> http://www.qsl.net/w8rnh/dyno/dyno2.jpg
> He used this on the Frankenmerc
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/482.html
> When I'm done with dyno testing this NEV motor will
> power my pontoon boat.
Hey Rod... your dyno looks really nifty!!
Wanna see mine???
I just took a E-stroll through the Ti DSP motor control site. And have
gotten a little updated on what's available.
Can you tell me , and or the list What kind of chip you are using? What
kind of phase sensing, BEMF, sensored, new magic.
And what kind if PWM, Straight, Phase centered, Space Vector, other...
I did straight PWM, edge triggered, Trap wave. I implimented BEMF
sensorless, and had to go to sensored for locked rotor torque. It's been
3 to 4 years since I hammered at it. I want to get back, and get onto
induction.
Is the old TMS320F240 chip still the front line for this stuff or is the
C28, or 2407.
--
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Anyone see the MSN story that included pictures of the Kewet, Sparrow, and
Twike?
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/4039831/
Not trying to duplicate the efforts of our excellent newswire editor, but
this would seem to call for some discussion. It appears the tide may be
turning - away from FCVs and to BEVs.
S.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 05:51:04 -0000
From: "myfastscooter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Lots of electric mini bikes lately.
I bought a $299 GX400C Pukka. Here is the low down on the Pukka. It
is 70lb and 8oz. It is much bigger than a clown bike. I am 6 feet 1
inch and the seat is all the way down and the handle bars look
normal. Adults will have no problems stealing this way from their
kids.
The controller output peeks at 80 amps, for going up hill is hitting
55-60 amps. I am 190lbs. The acceleration is Awesome. From a
calculation of
Volts x amps = watts
24 x 55 amps = 1320 watts
Am I missing something? Maybe take into account the efficiency of the
motor, so say 75% so what 990 watts.
990 Watts - I am a very happy Pukka owner!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Brian Staffanson wrote:
> I haven't driven a car with all the weight in the back. Would this
> be the configuration that you would go with, and suggest? I am
> leaning toward this option.
For modest low-speed driving, where you never get close to the limits of
tire adhesion, the rear weight bias won't bother you. The problems only
show up when you have to do a panic stop, or turn so fast that the tires
lose their grip.
My dune buggy wound up with only about 400 lbs on the front wheels. In a
fast stop, the front tires would lock well before the rear, so you'd
lose steering control. I fixed this by putting skinnier shoes on the
front to reduce their braking force. I also reduced front tire pressure
until the proper amount of tread was on the road. Front tires were stock
VW size.
> What was the rear tire size?
Going from memory, I think it was a G70R15, on widened VW rims.
> I planned on having to readjust the torsion bars.
Yes. You may also have to soften the front bars. I think I removed some
of the leaves or replace them with some intended for dune buggys.
> Would I have to change the shocks, and brake shoes, and add a sway
> bar? Would those changes make it much safer to drive? Or just nicer
> to drive?
Both!
If you're not sure how much change is necessary, take the car into a
parking lot and try some panic stops, and drive in circles and figure
eights, progressively faster, and see how it handles. Bad handling will
make itself obvious!
--
Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This seems like a first step to a gridable Prius. Congrats. Hope things go
well with your experiment. Lawrence Rhodes.....
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 23:20:18 -0000
From: "mwbueno" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: EV Mode Programming is ALIVE & WELL in US Prius!
Folks,
With the help of a very good friend in Europe (I'll share his name
when he says OK to do so), I have managed to hook up an EV Button in
my '04 and it works!!! Yeah!!!
HOOKING IT UP IS SCARY!!!
First, I am not going to publish how to do this until I know for
certain that nothing is getting hurt as the tie in is quite tricky
and involves a small modification to the HV ECU (The Mother
Computer) and I don't want to have a bunch of us killing our cars!
I promise to keep everyone up to date on testing and pros, cons, amp
usage, mileage & etc. I don't have a British Operator's Manual so I
am not even certain what it is supposed to be doing yet.
I can tell you that if the car is stopped and the ICE is running, if
I push the button, the ICE stops immediately and I am allowed to
drive in EV mode up to about 30 MPH then it starts with three little
chirps from somewhere under the dash.
It does seem to allow a fairly healthy amount of amps in EV Mode
before the override chirps go off and the ICE starts up to
compensate. I will hook up my instrumentation and check all of
these things out in more detail over the next few days.
Well, I thought this may not be possible and I am very glad that I
am wrong!!!!
IF I DON'T HURT ANYTHING - I PROMISE TO SHARE
If after a little while I can determine it is not hurting us, I will
post instructions & pictures & etc. I promise to be prompt.
Regards,
Wayne
I have only tested it for 10 minutes, so I don't know all the
particualrs yet.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
------------------ Virus Warning Message (on pollux)
Found virus WORM_MYDOOM.A in file test.pif
The file is deleted.
---------------------------------------------------------
------------------ Virus Warning Message (on pollux)
test.pif is removed from here because it contains a virus.
---------------------------------------------------------
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Cool! can you take MiniDV?
I will send you the whole cassette then. I am no expert and have little
free time.
Seth
On Feb 7, 2004, at 11:37 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Yeah,
I'm willing to make the DVD's but no one has contacted me to send me
pictures
and copies (or original) video tapes to make into the dvd.
I'm ready to go..
James
Quoting 1sclunn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
I haven't heard anything more about a video of the drag races. I
believe
James Jarrett said he would edit and put them on a dvd and sell them
for
$5
( want a deal!!!) I have down loaded a few but with my setup this is
slow
and I want to show them to others ( who don't want to wait 30 miniuts
to
is
14 seconds ) .
Steve Clunn the one with the slow computer
Seth Allen
AKA "the cynic"
" the other Seth"
"I lost on eBay too"
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich,
I use the TMS320LF2402 DSP.
The front runner production DSP's are the 28xx family,
however their working on faster one's.
In my 'opinion' I would use the Motorola 56F803 DSP
(I think they now call it a 'Hybrid' Microcontroller,
since they have faster DSP's for motor control).
Motorola app notes, software, support are all easier
to work with than TI stuff. I would strongly
recommend going with Mot product.
I'm using center triggered standard trapazoidal PWM.
I'm also using hall sensors since the SW is orders
of magnetude easier and you don't have to tweak the
parameters for each motor (and operating temperature)
I got sensorless working 3 years ago, but came to the
conclusion it's not worth the trouble for traction
applications. The best of both worlds is to use
hall sensors for starting the motor then switching
over to sensorless once the BEMF is strong enough.
While the motor is running you can use the hall
signals as a sanity check to verify your zero
crossings.
The beauty of sensorless is using the best possible
commutation for maximum efficiency (kind of like
Denise Beruby's moveable brush assembly).
Rich, can you post pictures of your dyno?
If I was still at Baldor I would have access
to the 500HP CONTINUOUS dyno.
Rod
--- Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Rod Hower wrote:
> >
> > http://www.qsl.net/w8rnh/dyno/dyno.html
> >
> > The web site is running now, no membership
> required.
> > Thanks again to Seth Allen for the splined shaft
> that
> > connects from the NEV motor to the Love-Joy
> coupling.
> > Ran the dyno on Friday all day at 1.5 Hp, keeps
> the
> > lab warm with the resistor load bank :-).
> > Rod
> > You can see the 'Seth' coupling here,
> > http://www.qsl.net/w8rnh/dyno/dyno2.jpg
> > He used this on the Frankenmerc
> > http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/482.html
> > When I'm done with dyno testing this NEV motor
> will
> > power my pontoon boat.
>
> Hey Rod... your dyno looks really nifty!!
> Wanna see mine???
>
> I just took a E-stroll through the Ti DSP motor
> control site. And have
> gotten a little updated on what's available.
>
> Can you tell me , and or the list What kind of chip
> you are using? What
> kind of phase sensing, BEMF, sensored, new magic.
> And what kind if PWM, Straight, Phase centered,
> Space Vector, other...
> I did straight PWM, edge triggered, Trap wave. I
> implimented BEMF
> sensorless, and had to go to sensored for locked
> rotor torque. It's been
> 3 to 4 years since I hammered at it. I want to get
> back, and get onto
> induction.
> Is the old TMS320F240 chip still the front line for
> this stuff or is the
> C28, or 2407.
>
>
> --
> Rich Rudman
> Manzanita Micro
> www.manzanitamicro.com
> 1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Apollonio <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2004 5:51 PM
Subject: Prius Torque
> Well, I got to drive a 2004 Prius today. Very nice car! I had a
> little bit of a tough time convincing it to stay in "stealth" mode, but
> that may have just been that the battery was a bit low. My biggest
> complaint is that the little LCD display can be distracting, but of
> course that's why it has an off button.
>
> I'm a bit curious though about the Prius specs. According to Toyota,
> both on their official brochure and their website, the AC, Permanent
> Magnet electric motor outputs 295 ft-lb of torque from 0-1200RPM. This
> sounds awfully high to me. I expected lower or similar numbers to come
> out of my 1000A 914 conversion, and that has a 9" ADC in it. As the
> Prius's NiMH batteries don't stand a chance of delivering 1000A, it is
> hard to believe that the Prius could really offer so much torque (and I
> didn't get any tire smoke when I drove it). I'd be shocked if Toyota
> were lying. Could it be a misprint? What did they claim for torque on
> the old Prius?
>
> Thanks
> -Ben
Hi Ben an' Prei Pilots;
I have an 'Old" one, you sure can't do smoke shows with it<g.>! Of
course it would sorta miss the point with the eco-mode of the whole concept.
I have noticed some sort of wheelslip control, what with all the @#$% ice on
roads 'round here lately. One spins, then the other? Seems like, once in a
while it will forget itself, and spin, like any other car. If it went to
full power, I would imagine it would give you a smoke show, but is limited
by the software? The other fellow that posted must be talking about the new
one, being able to run in EV mode with a switch control?? Seems to me that
the older 2002 would be too sluggish to drive in only electric mode, I mean
in Real World traffic??
All things considered, I like the car, never had a NEW ICE car before,
it starts EVery time, gets respectable, about 38 MPG in the cold, maybe will
do better in warm weather?I STILL hafta put GAS in it to make it go. So it
'aint an electric car, but I knew that, before I got it, but it will hafta
do til I get the Wonder Battery I have been promised the last 40 years!
Seeya, at the Gas Pump, less often
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have heard rumors of bugs in the 28xx stuff that isn't fixed yet.
240X seems a logical incremental upgrade path from the 240. Haven't
even heard rumors about Motorola stuff, but that's because of what I
get exposed to more than any other reason...
Rod- you have sensorless code for fan/pump/outboard boat motors? Hint,
hint...
Seth
On Feb 8, 2004, at 10:29 AM, Rod Hower wrote:
Rich,
I use the TMS320LF2402 DSP.
The front runner production DSP's are the 28xx family,
however their working on faster one's.
In my 'opinion' I would use the Motorola 56F803 DSP
(I think they now call it a 'Hybrid' Microcontroller,
since they have faster DSP's for motor control).
Motorola app notes, software, support are all easier
to work with than TI stuff. I would strongly
recommend going with Mot product.
I'm using center triggered standard trapazoidal PWM.
I'm also using hall sensors since the SW is orders
of magnetude easier and you don't have to tweak the
parameters for each motor (and operating temperature)
I got sensorless working 3 years ago, but came to the
conclusion it's not worth the trouble for traction
applications. The best of both worlds is to use
hall sensors for starting the motor then switching
over to sensorless once the BEMF is strong enough.
While the motor is running you can use the hall
signals as a sanity check to verify your zero
crossings.
The beauty of sensorless is using the best possible
commutation for maximum efficiency (kind of like
Denise Beruby's moveable brush assembly).
Rich, can you post pictures of your dyno?
If I was still at Baldor I would have access
to the 500HP CONTINUOUS dyno.
Rod
--- Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Rod Hower wrote:
http://www.qsl.net/w8rnh/dyno/dyno.html
The web site is running now, no membership
required.
Thanks again to Seth Allen for the splined shaft
that
connects from the NEV motor to the Love-Joy
coupling.
Ran the dyno on Friday all day at 1.5 Hp, keeps
the
lab warm with the resistor load bank :-).
Rod
You can see the 'Seth' coupling here,
http://www.qsl.net/w8rnh/dyno/dyno2.jpg
He used this on the Frankenmerc
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/482.html
When I'm done with dyno testing this NEV motor
will
power my pontoon boat.
Hey Rod... your dyno looks really nifty!!
Wanna see mine???
I just took a E-stroll through the Ti DSP motor
control site. And have
gotten a little updated on what's available.
Can you tell me , and or the list What kind of chip
you are using? What
kind of phase sensing, BEMF, sensored, new magic.
And what kind if PWM, Straight, Phase centered,
Space Vector, other...
I did straight PWM, edge triggered, Trap wave. I
implimented BEMF
sensorless, and had to go to sensored for locked
rotor torque. It's been
3 to 4 years since I hammered at it. I want to get
back, and get onto
induction.
Is the old TMS320F240 chip still the front line for
this stuff or is the
C28, or 2407.
--
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
Seth Allen
AKA "the cynic"
" the other Seth"
"I lost on eBay too"
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* LP8.2: HTML/Attachments detected, removed from message *
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Hi Sheer & All,
I just sent the following to hopefully help his/our momentum;
(when I think of all those years of driving back & forth in front of Bill's money
machine.........)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Miguel,
Where were you in '02? (to update an old phrase:-)
Unfortunately my family situation forced me to sell our EV in 2002, however, up until
that time and actually beginning
in 1996, I drove a battery electric vehicle (conversion) everyday. I initially drove
23 miles round trip (between
Woodinville & Bothel) for the first year, then 18 miles round trip (between
Woodinville & Redmond) for the last 5
years. My employer (located centrally to the Microsoft Redmond campus, but not
"Bill":-) not only allowed me to
"opportunity" charge while at work (and so help maximize the cars battery life), he
even installed an outdoor electric
outlet to help in my efforts towards spreading the word on alternative transportation
using renewable energy sources.
There are many others who continue to do this today, not only in our area, but
throughout the world
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/
Let me know if you need more information, or how I can help you & your family (or
perhaps to help others).
Best regards,
Jim Waite http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/021.html
[By the way, aside from replacing the battery pack every 2-3 years and perhaps adding
a gallon or so of distilled water
to them every 4-6 months, the daily cost of operation was ~$0.27. The car's new owner
(in Corvallis, Oregon) continues
to use the car as a "daily driver", and so has extended the reincarnation of this car
from it's initial 167K miles
"gasser" existence beyond the ~16K electric miles I put on it, and I understand it's
rapidly closing in on 200K miles
(with ~33K "pure electric"). Also, our family's "other" vehicle is a 2001 Toyota Prius
with just over 40,000 100%
trouble-free miles. Don't let the lower mileage ("only 42 mpg") you witnessed
discourage you, since our locale with the
many hills tends to reduce the Prius' better open-road mileage]
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Bought some of the white 10,000mcd LED's from www.besthongkong.com
(painless via paypal and took about a week) and lashed up Lee's circuit
with an LM339. I found I needed to drive only 3 of these in series per
channel. Current ranged from 11ma to 19ma from 10 to 15vdc and
brightness looked acceptable thruout the whole range. One wants to keep
the current below 20ma and this is the limit, not voltage, correct?
Lots of lower power good intensity lighting ideas brewing....
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Hi Jim an' All;
Sorry to hear of the demise of yur Raptor, I hava couple, have often
been shuttling them back an forth to Alltrax/DCP for repairs. Now I still
have the origional Smoke still inside. it has been stupid -fix- in -one- day
stuff for me. Like a Cap in the charging circuit, so it will pull in the 12
volt contactor, gunched pot on the box, from careless battery handling and
the old getting it wet. They sure don't like even the HINT of water, was
thinking of bringing it inside the car, in a dry corner, as it doesn't get
hot, for me. This is what amazis me, in the hottest weather it runs cool,
stop an; go traffic, whatever. I think I can count on one hand when the fan
has run in anger,ie towing, stuff like that.I hava hill like you describe,
known as Chatfield Hollow Hill on RT 80 in Killingworth, it is downshift in
gas car work, too. I can blaze up it in 4thor 5th@ 500 amps and maintain a
respectable 50-55MPH with everybody else, but bayttery sag is down to about
90 volts, after running the first 25 miles from New Haven to get there, so
the cells are tired. I don't do this EVeryday. I feel that I'm breaking the
back of the batteries, so I often get a good roll down the other side and
turn off about half way up, cut through a rez area, where I can go slow, 25
and look like a respectable citizen, in first [EMAIL PROTECTED] amps. In super
economy mode I have done all this run @ 100 amps or less, like the batteries
are pretty dead<g>! This is where I find my "Trojan Teakettles" Batteries
who hava reversed cell!Smoking and gassing!
Jim, your Big Hill is longer than mine, I can do mine in about a
[EMAIL PROTECTED] or so. That's scarry that I was pushing the Raptor that close to
death, and not knowing that!A question for you controller garus; When you're
in flat out or full on mode, isnt the controller pretty much in "Bypass"
mode or out of the circiut, for want of a better term? Jim's Raptor would go
on cranking out those amps all day, it was when he shut off at the top of
the hill, that killed it.Other circuit problems, but he was running 132
volts, closer to their 150 volt max, but his CURRENT draw would be less than
if I were chasing him up the hill in the Rabbit. Ohm's law in hiz favor a
bit? My thoughts, I was harder on my Raptur towing dead ICE wrecks uphill in
my yard, than flying up my Hill, because I was really using the controller's
electronics, power circuits for GRUNT to pull stuff at low speed , in first
gear. Hell I have even used the EV to pull stumps! Albiet small ones, but
the smooth power is sure nice!Reverse is the lowest gear, for stumps and
moving busses!
Maybe DCP haz changed it's policy on fixing them, in the last few weeks?
Doesn't wanna get involved with ground up rebuilds, on old units? Minor
fixes OK, though? I hope, like whothehell ELSE would or can fix them? Ya
don't just schleppe it down to your local electronix guy. Well you don't do
that with anything else for that matter. Nobody fixes VCR's and TV's today.
Junk it, get a new one! A Chang Hong TV a Broksonic VCR, cheaper than
walking in the door of a TV shop to even LOOK at yur dead one!I hope it
isn't thew same with controllers.
Seeya
Bob
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Rick,
Speaking of Boeing, the Tango looks like it could be a great
flight-line vehicle. And not just for big aircraft manufacturers. I'm
thinking general aviation airports and FBOs. Can the Tango be set up to
tow a small general aviation aircraft (like cessnas, pipers) which can
weigh (I think) up to 5000 to 7000 pounds? The largest G.A. aircraft
only carry four people. Can the Tango carry a trailer with four seats on
it as a kind of flight line taxi? Just an idea.
John Shelton
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* LP8.2: HTML/Attachments detected, removed from message *
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Seth,
Blowers, fans and boat props are all good examples
of loads that are 'sensorless friendly'.
I've made lots of changes to the code since I got
sensorless running.
The SW is still embedded in the production code,
it just isn't compiled as a conditional.
Maybe I'll have something working by Spring in MA
(isn't that sometime mid June?).
Rod
--- Seth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have heard rumors of bugs in the 28xx stuff that
> isn't fixed yet.
> 240X seems a logical incremental upgrade path from
> the 240. Haven't
> even heard rumors about Motorola stuff, but that's
> because of what I
> get exposed to more than any other reason...
>
> Rod- you have sensorless code for fan/pump/outboard
> boat motors? Hint,
> hint...
>
>
> Seth
>
>
> On Feb 8, 2004, at 10:29 AM, Rod Hower wrote:
>
> > Rich,
> > I use the TMS320LF2402 DSP.
> > The front runner production DSP's are the 28xx
> family,
> > however their working on faster one's.
> > In my 'opinion' I would use the Motorola 56F803
> DSP
> > (I think they now call it a 'Hybrid'
> Microcontroller,
> > since they have faster DSP's for motor control).
> > Motorola app notes, software, support are all
> easier
> > to work with than TI stuff. I would strongly
> > recommend going with Mot product.
> > I'm using center triggered standard trapazoidal
> PWM.
> > I'm also using hall sensors since the SW is orders
> > of magnetude easier and you don't have to tweak
> the
> > parameters for each motor (and operating
> temperature)
> > I got sensorless working 3 years ago, but came to
> the
> > conclusion it's not worth the trouble for traction
> > applications. The best of both worlds is to use
> > hall sensors for starting the motor then switching
> > over to sensorless once the BEMF is strong enough.
> > While the motor is running you can use the hall
> > signals as a sanity check to verify your zero
> > crossings.
> > The beauty of sensorless is using the best
> possible
> > commutation for maximum efficiency (kind of like
> > Denise Beruby's moveable brush assembly).
> >
> > Rich, can you post pictures of your dyno?
> > If I was still at Baldor I would have access
> > to the 500HP CONTINUOUS dyno.
> >
> > Rod
> >
> > --- Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >> Rod Hower wrote:
> >>>
> >>> http://www.qsl.net/w8rnh/dyno/dyno.html
> >>>
> >>> The web site is running now, no membership
> >> required.
> >>> Thanks again to Seth Allen for the splined shaft
> >> that
> >>> connects from the NEV motor to the Love-Joy
> >> coupling.
> >>> Ran the dyno on Friday all day at 1.5 Hp, keeps
> >> the
> >>> lab warm with the resistor load bank :-).
> >>> Rod
> >>> You can see the 'Seth' coupling here,
> >>> http://www.qsl.net/w8rnh/dyno/dyno2.jpg
> >>> He used this on the Frankenmerc
> >>> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/482.html
> >>> When I'm done with dyno testing this NEV motor
> >> will
> >>> power my pontoon boat.
> >>
> >> Hey Rod... your dyno looks really nifty!!
> >> Wanna see mine???
> >>
> >> I just took a E-stroll through the Ti DSP motor
> >> control site. And have
> >> gotten a little updated on what's available.
> >>
> >> Can you tell me , and or the list What kind of
> chip
> >> you are using? What
> >> kind of phase sensing, BEMF, sensored, new magic.
> >> And what kind if PWM, Straight, Phase centered,
> >> Space Vector, other...
> >> I did straight PWM, edge triggered, Trap wave. I
> >> implimented BEMF
> >> sensorless, and had to go to sensored for locked
> >> rotor torque. It's been
> >> 3 to 4 years since I hammered at it. I want to
> get
> >> back, and get onto
> >> induction.
> >> Is the old TMS320F240 chip still the front line
> for
> >> this stuff or is the
> >> C28, or 2407.
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> Rich Rudman
> >> Manzanita Micro
> >> www.manzanitamicro.com
> >> 1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
> >>
> >
> >
> Seth Allen
> AKA "the cynic"
> " the other Seth"
> "I lost on eBay too"
>
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I noticed there is a Fiat 600 in the album that looks like a really
neat and clean conversion. A Fiat 500 looks to be even smaller and I'd
like to have one someday. Is there a point where a car is too small to
get decent speed out of, say 50 to 60 mph?
Thanks,
John David
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Hi Ralph-
Myles here.
Say, you mentioned you had some o'scopes you'd like to sell.
I've only ever had a 4-channel B&K 100MHz scope---but it let smoke out a few
years back after being stored in a damp basement for a few years and I
haven't sent it in to get fixed (if it's possible).
Anyway, I'm going to be making a couple battery desulfators next week and
would like to have a scope----probably about time I buy one.
Please let me know if you still have one which you'd like to find a good
home for.
Thanks!
-Myles
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Rod Hower wrote:
>
> Rich,
> I use the TMS320LF2402 DSP.
> The front runner production DSP's are the 28xx family,
> however their working on faster one's.
> In my 'opinion' I would use the Motorola 56F803 DSP
> (I think they now call it a 'Hybrid' Microcontroller,
> since they have faster DSP's for motor control).
> Motorola app notes, software, support are all easier
> to work with than TI stuff. I would strongly
> recommend going with Mot product.
> I'm using center triggered standard trapazoidal PWM.
> I'm also using hall sensors since the SW is orders
> of magnetude easier and you don't have to tweak the
> parameters for each motor (and operating temperature)
> I got sensorless working 3 years ago, but came to the
> conclusion it's not worth the trouble for traction
> applications. The best of both worlds is to use
> hall sensors for starting the motor then switching
> over to sensorless once the BEMF is strong enough.
> While the motor is running you can use the hall
> signals as a sanity check to verify your zero
> crossings.
> The beauty of sensorless is using the best possible
> commutation for maximum efficiency (kind of like
> Denise Beruby's moveable brush assembly).
>
> Rich, can you post pictures of your dyno?
> If I was still at Baldor I would have access
> to the 500HP CONTINUOUS dyno.
>
> Rod
>
500 Hp continuous DROOOOOl!!!!
Man that would be fun to play with.
My little dyno is a 8000 rpm aircraft alternator. Just like the unit in
Alan Cocconni's Range cart. The bigger dyno is a 8 incher XP-1263
shafted to a 9" stocker set of advanced DC motors.
The MONSTER dyno is still in Phoenix AZ in David Chapman's care until I
get a 1 ton truck back down into the Deserts of the SW.
We could taken it back from Vegas, but Rod just had to bring a old Hot
tub up from Jerome. And David Calley didn't have the truck or the time
to Haul it up for me.
--
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
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I THINK so. I have access to several cameras on campus, all various formats,
and I seem to remember 1-2 mini-dv's.
James
Quoting Seth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
> Cool! can you take MiniDV?
>
> I will send you the whole cassette then. I am no expert and have little
>
> free time.
>
> Seth
>
> On Feb 7, 2004, at 11:37 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > Yeah,
> >
> > I'm willing to make the DVD's but no one has contacted me to send me
> > pictures
> > and copies (or original) video tapes to make into the dvd.
> >
> > I'm ready to go..
> >
> > James
> >
> > Quoting 1sclunn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
> >
> >> I haven't heard anything more about a video of the drag races. I
> >> believe
> >> James Jarrett said he would edit and put them on a dvd and sell them
>
> >> for
> >> $5
> >> ( want a deal!!!) I have down loaded a few but with my setup this
> is
> >> slow
> >> and I want to show them to others ( who don't want to wait 30 miniuts
>
> >> to
> >> is
> >> 14 seconds ) .
> >>
> >> Steve Clunn the one with the slow computer
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> Seth Allen
> AKA "the cynic"
> " the other Seth"
> "I lost on eBay too"
>
>
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My two questions would be how the AC motor connects, but that seems to
have been thoroughly discussed, and how to connect the DC motor. On
paper it is fine, but this gets back to the problem of no large sep-ex
controllers being made. The largest I know of is 96 volt/500amp or 48KW
peak. Add this to the 20ish KW from the AC drive for 70 KW peak total,
which doesn't do what I'm looking to do. Or maybe pair with a larger AC
drive.
Although 75 KW is probably good for a car. I just need to get over my
affliction with monster truck syndrome. Maybe if I start with one of
those Subaru baja psuedo-truck deals.
Lee Hart wrote:
Jim Coate wrote:
OK, so power is from hybrid LiIon and AGM pack. Now what is the
best way to get the power to the wheels? ...
could use a smaller DC motor and controller along with a small
AC motor and controller. The AC motor is used for cruising and
takes its power (up to say 20 KW) from the LiIon pack, keeping
currents modest. The DC system is powered by the AGMs to dish
up the big amps when needed for additional power. Should still
get 150 KW peaks. No power is shuttled between the battery packs.
I like this idea. The LiIon pack could be low-current high-voltage,
optimized to drive an AC motor and controller that provides your basic
driving and cruising power. It could easily be well under 50kw.
The AGM pack would be optimized for peak power. But rather than a
straight series motor (ADC), I'd look for one that you can also use as a
generator, with a shunt field winding or at least interpoles (GE,
Kostov). Use it with a controller that allows regen. Why? You'll see :-)
Have both these motors coupled, but with a clutch or transmission so you
can run them with the car in neutral when parked. Now consider; you have
a large AC/DC motor-generator onboard! The AC motor can certainly be
connected directly to 120/208/240vac. It spins the DC generator, whose
output you use for battery charging! Simple capacitors on the AC line
can do your power factor correction. No PFC charger needed!
If anyone is interested in trying something like this, I happen to have
a couple of Westinghouse 15 HP (continuous) AC/DC motor-generators. The
AC machine is 240/480vac 3-phase 3500 rpm 60 Hz. The DC machine is a
compound-wound (both shunt and series fields) rated at 240vdc.
_________
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak
1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
http://www.eeevee.com
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