EV Digest 3354
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Sparrow reborn
by Alan Batie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: GEM resale
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Is this mad? (Re: AC/DC hybrid drive combo?)
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Wife driving the electric...
by "Tom Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: death of a DCP raptor - Schottky's
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: AC/DC hybrid drive combo?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) TEVan parts and generator
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: anyone EVER fried a zilla?
by "Tim Medeck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Fwd: Edan 100Ah cells
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
10) Cheap magnachargers on eBay
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
11) Re: Conformal (Re: anyone EVER fried a zilla?)
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Dual battery temp meter E-bay
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) EVTech Wiki needs info
by "Eric Penne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Cheap magnachargers on eBay
by Chris Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Sparrow reborn
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Lee's saying
by "Tim Medeck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: death of a DCP raptor
by Seth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: TEVan parts and generator
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Carbon pile?
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Sparrow reborn
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Edan 100Ah cells
by "Doug Martin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Motor Slotted Ring to Adjust Timing (Re: Sparrow reborn)
by Edward Ang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Conformal (Re: anyone EVER fried a zilla?)
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Unsubsribe
by Joseph M Weber <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: Wife driving the electric...
by "James Jarrett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) RE: Edan 100Ah cells
by David Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: anyone EVER fried a zilla?
by Martin Klingensmith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Edan 100Ah cells
by John Lussmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) RE: Conformal (Re: anyone EVER fried a zilla?)
by David Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: Which Hawker battery in Electricar Dolphin systems?
by Jerry McIntire <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: Which Hawker battery in Electricar Dolphin systems?
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) Warmer, batteries improving....
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
On Wed, Feb 11, 2004 at 09:59:10PM -0600, Mark Thomasson wrote:
> I'm confused (again). My ADC has an insulating ring inside the end bell
> that the brush holders attach to. The ring attaches to the end bell. Would
> it be easier to drill a new set of holes in this insulating ring, rather
> than drill the case? Mark T.
I've never seen that setup, so couldn't say. It sounds like it would work
though...
--
Alan Batie ______ alan.batie.org Me
alan at batie.org \ / www.qrd.org The Triangle
PGPFP DE 3C 29 17 C0 49 7A \ / www.pgpi.com The Weird Numbers
27 40 A5 3C 37 4A DA 52 B9 \/ spamassassin.taint.org NO SPAM!
To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we
are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic
and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public.
-Theodore Roosevelt, 26th US President (1858-1919)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sounds like a fellow I met at a recent Aircraft auction. Kinda makes sense,
see a lot of Gems on the taxiways and hanger areas. Get me some more info
for him and I will run him to ground for you. David Chapman.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 12:40 PM
Subject: GEM resale
> Does anybody know Mark Carman in Phoenix?
> I just talked to the Chrysler engineer in charge
> of electronics for the GEM and he said Mark
> sold GEM pieces parts and vehicles.
> Thanks,
> Rod
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee, I just scrapped a welder out that had DC and AC windings on one shaft.
It was ICE driven from one end and had a comm on other end and then a set of
slip rings. I wonder if this might be a starting point for someone that
wanted to tinker cheaply with building a AC/DC hybrid type drive? I still
have the armature but the field and casing was toast so it got recycled. One
could probably find another readily, they are getting pretty old and
probably are going obsolete, made by Lincoln and I think it was a "225"
AC/DC portable stick machine. David Chapman.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
When we had our Ranger EV conversion, my
wife liked to ride with me in it but she didn't want to drive it. She
didn't like its short driving range or the charging hassles or the need to
drive it differently than our other cars. She only drove it a couple of
time around the block. I think she could have driven it home
if I was ever unable to.
That EV was not driver friendly. Its "fuel
tank" held the equivalent of about two gallons of gas with no good way to
determine how much "fuel" was in the tank. It had to be
babied up the hills to avoid damaging the motor or the batteries. It
required strange
rituals for charging and tending to the batteries. Its performance which
never was
exciting become even worse when the weather
was cold. People would sometimes ask her questions about the EV that she
couldn't
answer. It could hardly haul anything because it was already fully loaded
with the batteries.
My wife couldn't see any point in learning
how to use an EV while we had other vehicles
that she understood and could drive with
considerable skill and confidence.
Tom Shay
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Seth,
Pulling a long acceleration with the transmission
in high gear is really hard on the diodes.
Same thing when you shift up and it PWM's the
FET's/IGBT's until you get to a higher duty cycle.
Starting out in a higher gear is not only hard
on the diodes, but the motor is operating
in a very innefficient region. Just ask Otmar, his
range went down 20% (correct me if that's not right
number)when he fixed his tranny in 3rd gear (stop and
go driving, not highway)
Rod
--- Seth Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> hmm, so the issue lies when the pulse width (of the
> fets) is small
> which makes the diodes work harder? doesn't this
> put a huge toll on
> the diodes every time you start from a standstill,
> or shift up?
>
> seth
>
>
> On Tuesday, February 10, 2004, at 10:15 PM, Rod
> Hower wrote:
>
> > The flywheel diodes will carry current during PWM
> > of the motor. The actual current depends on the
> > duty cycle. For example, when you are
> accelerating
> > the motor is in PWM for awhile until you reach
> higher
> > motor terminal voltage. Several factors will
> > determine how long you are in this PWM transition
> > stage. If you start out in first gear this will
> be
> > rather short. If you try to start the car in 4th
> gear
> > from a dead stop you'll be in PWM for quite awhile
> > (and the motor will be very innefficient for a
> good
> > deal of this time) During this 4th gear start
> you'll
> > see lots of freewheel current in the diodes.
> > Freewheel current and diodes are not always rated
> at
> > the same amp levels of the MOSFET's or IGBT's in
> the
> > drive. Therefore if you have a 1200Amp control
> the
> > freewheel diodes aren't always rated at 1200 amps
> > since
> > they only see a transitory current (hopefully you
> > start in 1st or 2nd gear and don't do the high
> current
> > 4th gear start).
> > I think there are some other factors that come
> into
> > play in this DCP control failure. I'm guessing
> the
> > current limit control and thermal sensing circuit
> are
> > slow in responding to the load (Rich can fill us
> in on
> > this question). The other possibility is not
> enough
> > design overhead for the transistor voltage and
> > transient voltage seen by stray inductance and
> > resistance in the control, especially as the bus
> caps
> > age and have higher internal resistance (this is a
> > progressive failure and non-linear for the caps).
> > Rod
> > www.qsl.net/w8rnh
> > --- Seth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >> Ok, can I now say I finally did some "outside the
> >> box" thinking...
> >>
> >> Get it... out side the box... ahh nevermind...
> >>
> >> Seth
> >>
> >> On Feb 10, 2004, at 11:43 AM, Rod Hower wrote:
> >>
> >>> I have some 200V, 400A Schottky power modules
> >>> in a TO-244AB package.
> >>> 1 or 2 of these should work.
> >>> Low price if your interested.
> >>> Rod
> >>> --- Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >>>> A look around DigiKey makes this a $500-ish
> >> project
> >>>> for 5-10 high
> >>>> current modules, plus designing appropriate
> >>>> wiring/connecting methods.
> >>>> Plus labor. Nothing is easy as they say.
> >>>> Or use as seed money for new controller fund.
> >>>>
> >>>> - Jim
> >>>> Brought to you by the word: "Epitaxial"
> >>>> "
> >>>>
> >>>> Seth wrote:
> >>>>> Maybe "the diode from hell" wired for
> freewheel
> >>>> at the motor in
> >>>>> parallel with the 'Rex? Like multiple 200V
> >>>> "Schottkys" or FREDs on a fan
> >>>>> and heatsink bolted adjacent to the motor (you
> >> are
> >>>> running 132V, right
> >>>>> Jim?) Seth Murray might need a 300V FRED for
> >> 192V?
> >>>> Just thinking out
> >>>>> loud on that one. Maybe there are good reasons
> >> not
> >>>> to do it? Lee, Rich,
> >>>>> Otmar??
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> _________
> >>>> Jim Coate
> >>>> 1970's Elec-Trak
> >>>> 1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
> >>>> 1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
> >>>> http://www.eeevee.com
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >> Seth Allen
> >> AKA "the cynic"
> >> " the other Seth"
> >> "I lost on eBay too"
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION
> '72 Datsun 240Z Conversion
> http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Victor Tikhonov wrote:
>
> Mark Thomasson wrote:
>
> > Is it just me, or are we going in circles? Drive a DC motor with AC power
> > to turn an AC generator to charge DC batteries? Definitely out of the box
> > thinking. Why not just put the AC power directly into the AC controller and
> > skip the motor-generator step altogether? Mark T.
>
> That's correct Mark, I was about to ask the same:
>
> Since AC motors offer all the advantages of DC ones + more,
> I can't see what AC-DC combo can possibly buy. Why not just
> use AC system for driving AND regen AND charging? Beats me.
>
> Anyone?
Jim Coate posted some reasons why such a hybrid AD/DC drive might be
advantageous. Basically, it is economics and availability. I can afford
a smaller AC drive, and boost its accelleration with a cheap DC drive. I
can also have a high voltage pack that is not good for range but not
high peak currents, and a high-power pack for fast accelleration but not
range. The mechanical coupling between the AC and DC systems eliminates
the need for big expensive converters.
But such an approach does not make sense for a manufacturer, because
they have vastly more engineering resources.
Taking the next step, a motor-generator charger only makes sense once
you already have the motor-generators. It wouldn't make sense to add a
second motor just for charging.
So, we are talking about a specialized solution for a specialized
problem -- not a general-case solution for every EV.
--
"Never doubt that a small group of committed people can change the
world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has!" -- Margaret Meade
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Next Wednesday I'm driving to PA to pick up
all of the remaining electronic stuff from
the Chrysler TEVan program. This will be
a David Chapmin grab bag of stuff, but the
tech at the company said 'there's some expensive stuff
so we didn't want to scrap it'
Luckily I still have an inside source to get these
components.
I plan on keeping most of it to support the limited
TEVan drivers still on the road.
I plan on Ebaying the rest.
Since I'll have extra money from sales I plan on
building a genset trailer for the TEVan using
a 9" GE shunt motor to charge the batteries.
I still need an ICE motor to power the DC charge
motor. Anybody have good leads on a clean 5HP
motor to power this beast? I'll either buy surplus
off the internet or trade somebody on the list
for EV stuff.
Any links would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rod
P.S. I would also like to thank Mike Chancey for
throwing in that tow bar attachment that I need to
mount on the TEVan.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
James wrote:
Well, the fact that he DID choose this frequency means I could actually own
one on the future. I have a condition called "shifted" hearing. I can't
hear
squat in the low frequency band, but I can hear sounds up to about 23kHtz,
so I for one like this choice.
There are some buildings with ultra-sonic motion detectors that I have to
leave. They give me a migraine.
I know what you mean, James. Old Raytheon radar systems do the same to me.
Tim Medeck
_________________________________________________________________
Plan your next US getaway to one of the super destinations here.
http://special.msn.com/local/hotdestinations.armx
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I had been enquiring about Li-Ion cells from edan.com.tw and finally got a
reply. If anyone is in need of a high-energy pack, check out the specs and get
a group purchase together - they look better than Thunder-Sky, lower price,
lower internal resistance, higher tested cycle life, UL and CE listed, just
needs BMS and charger:
----- Forwarded message from [EMAIL PROTECTED] -----
The battery cells are danger because of their high energy density.
In the past, we ONLY sell them to manufactuers which are technically
capabile of handling the cells.
In your case, we must ask you to sign a note to declare that you know the
potential danger
and you know how to use them.
Our quotation is US$175 each with minimum order of 100 cells.
The price is FOB China or Taiwan depending on our inventory location.
Since it is very difficult to judge whether a cell is abused,
we only offer 3 month guarantee for cells which become bad (e.g. leakage or
0 volt)
before assmebly. In that case, we will replace them or refund those bad
cells
depending on the situation.
Hsin-chang Lan
Founder and Chairman, Edan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2595897186
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jim Coate wrote:
> What exactly is "conformal coating"?
"Conformal coating" is another name for "paint". It is any coating that
serves to keep water, dirt, bugs, metal shavings, etc. from causing
shorts if it gets on an electronic circuit. Just as bare metal will rust
and raw wood will rot if you leave it outside, circuit boards will
corrode, short out, and fail. That's why you can't take something
designed for indoor use and put it in your car and expect it to survive
for long.
Just as there are thousands of paints, there are dozens of conformal
coatings. There are epoxies, acrylics, urethanes, silicone rubbers, etc.
Usually, manufacturers pick whatever is the cheapest, and use as little
as possible (acrylics). Sometimes they pick materials that are
impossible to remove (epoxies) so no one can fix it or steal their
circuits.
If you're doing it yourself, use epoxies when you know you never need to
get it off -- they have the highest moisture and abrasion resistance. If
you *do* want to get it off someday, use a silicone rubber based
material; they will peel right off, and offer excellent moisture
resistance.
--
"Never doubt that a small group of committed people can change the
world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has!" -- Margaret Meade
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Saw this and thought it might be handy for someone that wanted to monitor
the temperature of 2 batterypack/strings. Trick looking and good history
too. David Chapman.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2459234303&category=26436
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This has been brought up a few times before.
EVTech.org has a Wiki for editing information on the page by anybody that
comes by and has something to add.
I started adding some basic information to break the ice. The process is
really easy and if somebody puts something that isn't nice then it is easy
to revert to a previous edition to get rid of it.
It will work really good as a FAQ for EVs. Here are a couple of links
that need lots of help.
http://www.evtech.org/phpwiki/index.php/Batteries
http://www.evtech.org/phpwiki/index.php/Tires
http://www.evtech.org/phpwiki/index.php/Motors
http://www.evtech.org/phpwiki/index.php is where to start. Sign in with a
nickname and start editing. If you aren't sure of the formatting just
type the info in and we can format it later.
Eric
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Cool. I just put in a min bid, if anyone in the DC area wants one of
these (hint hint) I will give it to them for splitting the shipping with me.
Chris
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2595897186
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Look at :http://www.manzanitamicro.com/download.htm
Scroll down to PHOTOS about 25% of the way down the page.
Select the fifth and sixth entries in the list of photos.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Ang" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 10:39 AM
Subject: Re: Sparrow reborn
> Any pictures you can post about the slotted ring?
>
> Ed Ang
>
> >
> >
> > --
> > Rich Rudman
> > Manzanita Micro
> > www.manzanitamicro.com
> > 1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I like Lee's new "saying" , but his "Let the bells ring" got me off my duff
and let me feel OK about doing the "quick and dirty" car. At least I'll be
driving a BEV while I'm building the one that I'll be proud to show off.
Thanks Lee, and everyone else that's helped me.
Tim Medeck
_________________________________________________________________
Keep up with high-tech trends here at "Hook'd on Technology."
http://special.msn.com/msnbc/hookedontech.armx
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Freewheeling diodes again
On eBay now if you search under SOT-227 and include desciptions in the
search, you will find dual channel 60A 600V fast recovery diodes from
IXYS. So if you have a higher voltage pack (like 192 or 240V), these
might be for you, but you would need to parallel them. 4 of them is for
8 total diodes, 8 would be 16. My personal preference would be to use
larger individual diodes, but they are more rare and expensive.
Right now they are at ~5 British pounds for 4 pieces.
Seth Allen
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 4:58 PM
Subject: TEVan parts and generator
SNIP!
>This will be a David Chapmin grab bag of stuff
Sounds like a neat load of stuff. Thanks for the compliment. Gee, am I
finally getting the recognition I deserve? LOL, probably.
On the subject of your Range Extender, I don't think that you will be real
happy with the typical small (5 hp) engine. These tend to be very noisy,
inefficient and very dirty from an emmissions standpoint. And to get
anything that might do you much good you would likely need something up
around 15-20 HP range. I have a 3 phase aircraft alternator that I have
always thought would be good with a 2 cyl VW conversion or maybe a 3 cyl Geo
engine driving an A-10 ECM pod either one converted to run propane. If you
just want a 5 HP genset to use for backup/emergency charging buy a factory
built one with a Honda OHV engine. I saw some not too long ago at Home
Despot for 4-500. Your time is much more valuable than that. Well, back to
the Junqyard!! David Chapman.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jim Coate wrote:
>
> I came upon an automotive alternator tester headed for the trash... the
> control panel with pretty meters and such is now in my basement.
>
> It includes some sort of stack of gray discs that get squished together
> tighter as the "load" control knob is turned up. Is this a 'carbon pile'
> that I have heard referred to in the past?
>
> The meter goes up to 300 amps... if this is a carbon pile, what are it's
> likely limits? How long can it be under load?
>
> Picture of the potential carbon pile:
> http://www.coate.org/jim/ev/archives/tester_carbon.jpg
>
> and of the complete tester unit:
> http://www.coate.org/jim/ev/archives/tester_front.jpg
> http://www.coate.org/jim/ev/archives/tester_back.jpg
>
> The rest of the tester consisted of a case with a 220 VAC motor inside
> with a pulley and belt to spin the alternator under test.
>
> _________
> Jim Coate
> 1970's Elec-Trak
> 1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
> 1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
> http://www.eeevee.com
Jim and List I am LOOKING FOR THESE!!
The one I have is a old battery tester from the 40 or 50s. It can get
to 1850 amps, it's what I use on the battery blaster!.
I need about 6 of them!! The larger the better.
Mr. Berube knows of 5000 amp verisions, but won't tell me where to find
them. These are going to be apart of the field control on my Medium
sized dyno.
When it catches fire, put it out, write down what the limit was!!!! I am
NOT kidding here!
They do lots of amp, are adjustable, but don't shed the heat well.Once
hot you need a LOT of air to cool them. No water of they will shatter.
Working temps in the many hundreds of Deg F. Like 500F to incandesent
temps.
The big warning is the expand when hot, cranking in 1000 amp jumps up
as the plates heat and expand, and some timed they jam the nut, better
have a breaker that can be opened!!
--
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Edward Ang wrote:
>
> --- Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > We slotted the rivet holes, then extened them to a
> > external ring that
> > can be moved.
> > If You want to just set the ring ahead, this is s
> > good idea. We wanted
> > to have the brushes movable from the outside.
> > Clare Bell does the slotting in the ring.
> > Gone Poastal has new holes drilled int he steel
> > case. Since we had the
> > motors out and on the floor it was the easiest
> > procedure.
>
> Rich,
>
> Any pictures you can post about the slotted ring?
>
> Ed Ang
>
> >
> >
> > --
> > Rich Rudman
> > Manzanita Micro
> > www.manzanitamicro.com
> > 1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
> >
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
Clare does the slotted ring, we do the new holes or the active brush
moving setup.
So... No.
--
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
umm... something odd about those 100AH cells when I looked at their site:
www.edan.com.tw/Product-2002515153759.html... anyone else care to calculate
the weight of those things? Assuming there are still 100 grams to a kg, each
one is approximately 31kg. If memory serves, there were approximately 2.2lbs
per kg, bringing each cell to a whopping 68.2lbs. 100AH of lithium would
indeed be a nice thing, but I'd have to electrify a Humvee in order to
accommodate a 6820lb battery pack (of 360V/150amp nominal current for an AC
setup)! Did I just smoke some bad crack, or is that one heavy-duty EV?
Seeing as how they're not especially large cells physically 20X15X5cm
approximate, I'd guess the weight was misquoted... or they're actually the
world's first Osmium Ion batteries... ;^)
Anyone want to correct my imperception / misperception?
-Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 3:39 PM
Subject: Fwd: Edan 100Ah cells
> I had been enquiring about Li-Ion cells from edan.com.tw and finally got a
> reply. If anyone is in need of a high-energy pack, check out the specs and
get
> a group purchase together - they look better than Thunder-Sky, lower
price,
> lower internal resistance, higher tested cycle life, UL and CE listed,
just
> needs BMS and charger:
>
> ----- Forwarded message from [EMAIL PROTECTED] -----
>
> The battery cells are danger because of their high energy density.
> In the past, we ONLY sell them to manufactuers which are technically
> capabile of handling the cells.
>
> In your case, we must ask you to sign a note to declare that you know the
> potential danger
> and you know how to use them.
>
> Our quotation is US$175 each with minimum order of 100 cells.
> The price is FOB China or Taiwan depending on our inventory location.
> Since it is very difficult to judge whether a cell is abused,
> we only offer 3 month guarantee for cells which become bad (e.g. leakage
or
> 0 volt)
> before assmebly. In that case, we will replace them or refund those bad
> cells
> depending on the situation.
>
> Hsin-chang Lan
> Founder and Chairman, Edan
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Joe,
I have seen those photos, but they don't show the
slotted ring.
Ed Ang
--- Joe Smalley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Look at :http://www.manzanitamicro.com/download.htm
> Scroll down to PHOTOS about 25% of the way down the
> page.
> Select the fifth and sixth entries in the list of
> photos.
>
> Joe Smalley
> Rural Kitsap County WA
> Fiesta 48 volts
> NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Edward Ang" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 10:39 AM
> Subject: Re: Sparrow reborn
>
>
>
> > Any pictures you can post about the slotted ring?
> >
> > Ed Ang
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Rich Rudman
> > > Manzanita Micro
> > > www.manzanitamicro.com
> > > 1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
> > >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing
> online.
> > http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
> >
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Lee and others,
In talking about coating's of electronic and electrical equipment, what type
of coating do you used on battery terminals?
I had been using Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease by coating both terminal
and connector. I find that dust clings to this grease and continues to
build up.
I than coated the whole connector with black and red rubber coating that is
use for Plastic Dipping hand tools handles. I leave the stainless steel nut
exposed for testing and retorqing as required.
Since I went from welded battery links on my 300 AH batteries to bolt on
links on 244 AH batteries, I find that over 90 percent of my maintenance is
battery connections.
It's been either retorqing the battery connectors, replacement's of battery
studs, reshaping or remolding the post's, checking the current flow of each
battery connector by using the shunt test at each connection.
Is this the way it is or is there a better way?
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 3:29 PM
Subject: Re: Conformal (Re: anyone EVER fried a zilla?)
> Jim Coate wrote:
> > What exactly is "conformal coating"?
>
> "Conformal coating" is another name for "paint". It is any coating that
> serves to keep water, dirt, bugs, metal shavings, etc. from causing
> shorts if it gets on an electronic circuit. Just as bare metal will rust
> and raw wood will rot if you leave it outside, circuit boards will
> corrode, short out, and fail. That's why you can't take something
> designed for indoor use and put it in your car and expect it to survive
> for long.
>
> Just as there are thousands of paints, there are dozens of conformal
> coatings. There are epoxies, acrylics, urethanes, silicone rubbers, etc.
> Usually, manufacturers pick whatever is the cheapest, and use as little
> as possible (acrylics). Sometimes they pick materials that are
> impossible to remove (epoxies) so no one can fix it or steal their
> circuits.
>
> If you're doing it yourself, use epoxies when you know you never need to
> get it off -- they have the highest moisture and abrasion resistance. If
> you *do* want to get it off someday, use a silicone rubber based
> material; they will peel right off, and offer excellent moisture
> resistance.
> --
> "Never doubt that a small group of committed people can change the
> world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has!" -- Margaret Meade
> --
> Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: Joe Weber
E-MAIL: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
All this talk about wives driving EV's came at a very opportune moment. My
wife (accompanied by our 9 month old daughter) started driving the Henney on
errands and the like for the first time this week. In all, she says she
likes the idea of the EV, and the little one seems to love it, but she has
two problems with driving it. One is the brakes. The Henney is heavy for
it's size (about 2300) and has old (read non power) brakes that are a tad
soft. They stop the car fine, but require a good bit more force than she is
used to using to stop.
She and I both think she can adjust to that over time with practice, but the
other problem she has I would have never guessed. She can barely see over
the steering wheel! She's not that small a person, about 5'3", and as small
as the Henney is I would have never thought that, but there it is. I just
think it is funny that, in the fairly near future, my wife and daughter will
BOTH be sitting is booster seats.
James
James F. Jarrett
Information Systems Associate
Charlotte Country Day School
(704)943-4562
http://www.ccds.charlotte.nc.us/~jarrett
http://www.ccds.charlotte.nc.us/~jarrett/EV
The most exciting phrase to hear in science, the one that heralds new
discoveries, is not Eureka! (I found it!) but rather, 'hmm.... that's
funny...'. - Isaac Asimov
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That should be *1000* grams to a kilogram, not 100...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Doug Martin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 10:44 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Edan 100Ah cells
>
> umm... something odd about those 100AH cells when I looked at
> their site:
> www.edan.com.tw/Product-2002515153759.html... anyone else
> care to calculate the weight of those things? Assuming there
> are still 100 grams to a kg, each one is approximately 31kg.
> If memory serves, there were approximately 2.2lbs per kg,
> bringing each cell to a whopping 68.2lbs. 100AH of lithium
> would indeed be a nice thing, but I'd have to electrify a
> Humvee in order to accommodate a 6820lb battery pack (of
> 360V/150amp nominal current for an AC setup)! Did I just
> smoke some bad crack, or is that one heavy-duty EV?
> Seeing as how they're not especially large cells physically
> 20X15X5cm approximate, I'd guess the weight was misquoted...
> or they're actually the world's first Osmium Ion batteries... ;^)
>
> Anyone want to correct my imperception / misperception?
>
> -Doug
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 3:39 PM
> Subject: Fwd: Edan 100Ah cells
>
>
> > I had been enquiring about Li-Ion cells from edan.com.tw
> and finally
> > got a reply. If anyone is in need of a high-energy pack,
> check out the
> > specs and
> get
> > a group purchase together - they look better than Thunder-Sky, lower
> price,
> > lower internal resistance, higher tested cycle life, UL and
> CE listed,
> just
> > needs BMS and charger:
> >
> > ----- Forwarded message from [EMAIL PROTECTED] -----
> >
> > The battery cells are danger because of their high energy density.
> > In the past, we ONLY sell them to manufactuers which are
> technically
> > capabile of handling the cells.
> >
> > In your case, we must ask you to sign a note to declare
> that you know
> > the potential danger and you know how to use them.
> >
> > Our quotation is US$175 each with minimum order of 100 cells.
> > The price is FOB China or Taiwan depending on our inventory
> location.
> > Since it is very difficult to judge whether a cell is
> abused, we only
> > offer 3 month guarantee for cells which become bad (e.g. leakage
> or
> > 0 volt)
> > before assmebly. In that case, we will replace them or
> refund those
> > bad cells depending on the situation.
> >
> > Hsin-chang Lan
> > Founder and Chairman, Edan
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you're interested in power conversion, "Switching Power Supply
Design" by Abraham Pressman is a good book. Includes a chapter about
various methods of driving power transistors. It's mainly about
switching power supplies though as you can (hopefully) infer.
I'm a sophomore EE too.
--
--
Martin Klingensmith
http://infoarchive.net/
http://nnytech.net/
Seth Murray wrote:
...Does that make sense?
yes, I think so...thank you. this stuff is very interesting to me. I'm
taking power electronics as soon as I can (only a sophomore EE now) but
any recommended reading in the mean time? I have a copy of "power
electronics and drives" by ned mohan here which I've been browsing
through...cheers,
seth
--
QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION
'72 Datsun 240Z Conversion
http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 08:43 PM 2/12/2004 -0800, Doug Martin stated:
umm... something odd about those 100AH cells when I looked at their site:
www.edan.com.tw/Product-2002515153759.html... anyone else care to calculate
the weight of those things? Assuming there are still 100 grams to a kg, each
There are 1000 grams to a Kg. Not 100.
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.Com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi, roland.
Some time ago, the list recommended (after much debate), a 3-step process
for connections, to protect against corrosion and keep clean.
The first step was to run a small bead of silicone around the base of each
post before making the connections. This is just an everyday silicone such
as would be used around the house.
The second was to use the brown, goopy NOCO rings.
The third was to use one of the commercially available spray-on corrosion
prevention chemicals that are specifically for battery terminals.
I did this when I replaced a pack of T-125's with US125's about 1 1/2 years
ago, and have not had any dirt or corrosion problems at all (well, except
where wasps built a nest on top of one of the batteries. They have built
nests in the engine compartments of all of our vehicles at one time or
another, even on the engine blocks of ICE vehicles!).
I sprayed the connection after attaching and torquing the terminals. It is
a waxy substance that repels moisture and acid, but it isn't conductive, so
you want to make the connections before spraying them.
I also have rubber battery boots covering the connections.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roland Wiench [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 9:23 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Conformal (Re: anyone EVER fried a zilla?)
>
> Hello Lee and others,
>
> In talking about coating's of electronic and electrical
> equipment, what type of coating do you used on battery terminals?
>
> I had been using Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease by
> coating both terminal and connector. I find that dust clings
> to this grease and continues to build up.
>
> I than coated the whole connector with black and red rubber
> coating that is use for Plastic Dipping hand tools handles. I
> leave the stainless steel nut exposed for testing and
> retorqing as required.
>
> Since I went from welded battery links on my 300 AH batteries
> to bolt on links on 244 AH batteries, I find that over 90
> percent of my maintenance is battery connections.
>
> It's been either retorqing the battery connectors,
> replacement's of battery studs, reshaping or remolding the
> post's, checking the current flow of each battery connector
> by using the shunt test at each connection.
>
> Is this the way it is or is there a better way?
>
> Roland
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 3:29 PM
> Subject: Re: Conformal (Re: anyone EVER fried a zilla?)
>
>
> > Jim Coate wrote:
> > > What exactly is "conformal coating"?
> >
> > "Conformal coating" is another name for "paint". It is any
> coating that
> > serves to keep water, dirt, bugs, metal shavings, etc. from causing
> > shorts if it gets on an electronic circuit. Just as bare
> metal will rust
> > and raw wood will rot if you leave it outside, circuit boards will
> > corrode, short out, and fail. That's why you can't take something
> > designed for indoor use and put it in your car and expect
> it to survive
> > for long.
> >
> > Just as there are thousands of paints, there are dozens of conformal
> > coatings. There are epoxies, acrylics, urethanes, silicone
> rubbers, etc.
> > Usually, manufacturers pick whatever is the cheapest, and
> use as little
> > as possible (acrylics). Sometimes they pick materials that are
> > impossible to remove (epoxies) so no one can fix it or steal their
> > circuits.
> >
> > If you're doing it yourself, use epoxies when you know you
> never need to
> > get it off -- they have the highest moisture and abrasion
> resistance. If
> > you *do* want to get it off someday, use a silicone rubber based
> > material; they will peel right off, and offer excellent moisture
> > resistance.
> > --
> > "Never doubt that a small group of committed people can change the
> > world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has!" -- Margaret Meade
> > --
> > Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377
> leeahart_at_earthlink.net
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Re: Which Hawker battery in Electricar Dolphin systems?
Thanks Alex and Chris for the quick replies! I was afraid that the real
range was lower. 30 usable miles isn't enough for me-- in fact I had a US
Electricar Ford Escort with DC drive that was built for me in 1993, and it
never went farther than 35 miles on a charge (120V pack, 10-12V Trojan 5
SHP's). I always wished I had 6V batt's.
Anyway, thanks for the battery sources. I think I'm going to pass on the
Geo Prizm that the Salt River Project in Arizona has for sale-- runs, but
has charging issues and needs batt's, only $3,000 but...
Jerry
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Anyway, thanks for the battery sources. I think I'm going to pass on the
Geo Prizm that the Salt River Project in Arizona has for sale-- runs, but
has charging issues and needs batt's, only $3,000 but...
*nod* If you want sheer range it seems that the best way to go is with a
VW Rabbit with 20 T105's or a light pickup.
That said, I have been thinking about getting a US Electricar pickup.
They use the 42ah batteries in two strings (84ah), and one could easily
add a string of 26ah batteries to get 100ah. Enough to go 70 miles I
would think...
The Prizm is fast, can outrun most EV's at speed, and really comfortable
to drive. However max range is not it's key point.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, after the wife drove the car the other day (no, it didn't go foom)
I took it out for a nice 12ah run, then let it sit in the driveway with
the heat and lights on for an hour.
Brought the pack down to 21ah, with a voltage under an 8amp load of 302.
Not bad. Put it on charge for the night and found that the E-meter had
registered a net positive of 6 ah. (probably 28ah uncompensated)
That's a bit more charging than normal. Maybe the pack finally warmed up
a bit. Wish the MC stored history; I would have liked to see what the
max temp on the pack was. Whatever, it didn't fault so it didn't get
above 40 degrees C.
I really would like it to warm up so I can have my range back. I miss
25-30 mile drives.
Chris
--- End Message ---
