EV Digest 3375
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Fw: NRT2 Nokian
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Pie in the sky
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Magne Chargers
by "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) AC induction vs BLDC
by Seth Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: If the Tango was closer to the ground.
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Multi-output battery charger update
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Magne Chargers
by "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: AC induction vs BLDC
by "Andre Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Magne Chargers
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
10) Re: Pie in the sky
by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Magne Chargers
by "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Magne Chargers
by "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: Pie in the sky
by "Andre Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: If the Tango was closer to the ground.
by Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Magne Chargers
by "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: AC induction vs BLDC
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Magne Chargers
by "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Magne Chargers
by "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Tour de Sol Schedule - in brief
by M Bianchi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Pie in the sky
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Cheap magne chargers on ebay
by Alex Karahalios <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Pie in the sky
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Cheap magne chargers on ebay
by "Diana Trevino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Newbie EV'er - Fry's His E-meter!
by "dan shoop" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Fw: NRT2 Nokian
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Please reply
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
27) Re: AC induction vs BLDC
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: If the Tango was closer to the ground.
by Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---Message I received from a tire dealer. Lawrence Rhodes... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greer Enterprises" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 10:27 AM Subject: Re: NRT2 Nokian > Yes. We have most sizes in stock today. > > Pat > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 2:13 AM > Subject: NRT2 Nokian > > > > Is this tire still available? Lawrence Rhodes...... > > > > > >
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--- Begin Message ---Seems that matching the motor to the size of vehicle and adding a Zilla of the proper size. Makes the most performance sense. AC or BLDC might be a bit more efficient but still expensive. Using a Prius, or Insight with a DC motor and taking advantage of it's built in regen might be one option. Lawrence Rhodes..... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Reverend Gadget" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 10:59 PM Subject: Pie in the sky > If you could pick a motor for an EV what would it > be(brushed DC, AC, BLDC)and what would you want from a > controller for it. Thanks > Gadget > > ===== > visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com >
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--- Begin Message --- I feel this question has been answered on the list before, but I couldn't find the answer... what is the difference between BLCD and AC induction? By the time you get to electronic commutation, isn't everything pretty much AC?
seth
-- QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION '72 Datsun 240Z Conversion http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
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--- Begin Message ---You might also consider getting wheels offset towards the inside of the car, and narrow the fenders. Probably a lots less work than cutting a section out of the center and reconnecting. On a truck, you could narrow the bed at the rear, but leave it the same size at the front. The kit car magazines and web pages would be good places to look for ideas. --- Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > On Tue, Feb 24, 2004 at 07:28:18PM -0800, Lee Hart wrote: > > If you're building a car for yourself, it doesn't really matter > much if > > it has 3 wheels for 4. The requirements for licensing a homebuilt > > 4-wheeler aren't that much more difficult. > > I'm thinking about efficiency more than licensing. I was thinking > of using > two ETek motors and two belts or chains, one on each side of the > single > rear wheel. But then changing the tire would be a lot of work. > > > > So I was wondering... if I wanted to build a Tango-style narrow > car (to > > get the drastically reduced frontal area), what car would I use > as a > > donor vehicle? One that could be easily narrowed? > > Yeah exactly. > > > But, I happen to have a 1965 Chevy Corvair, and am quite familiar > with > > But it would be a shame use a classic car like that just for parts. > > I happen to have a 76 or so Datsun pickup and need to have a closer > look at > the front end; but I figured it's a truck, and some economy cars > are bound > to have something more suitable (lighter weight, smaller etc.) But > so many > of them are FWD. ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want. http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools
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--- Begin Message ---Bruce Parmenter- I'm curious how the multi-output battery chargers (e.g. DualPro) are working for you. I'd like to hear about the performance, any reliability issues since your last post, model#s used, other issues, efficiency, cost, etc. While I'd like to ditch my Lestronic charger(s) for my boat ( http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/492.html ), it'd be cool to have small modular chargers. Last I read, you were using 10amp DualPro units which didn't seem to even put out the 10amp spec. I'd like to have a charger which can dish out 40 amps at 36v or any 6v-subsets of that. I guess I'd need 4 DualPro, 3-output, 10-amp units to get that power output. Presumably that'd cost me at least $800 ? I'm looking at wanting max 36v DC charging from a Honda EU2000i genset's AC output while boating longer than 20-mile distances. With two 36v Lestronics connected in parallel, I get 35amps into the batteries, but I'd like something smaller, lighter and quieter, but affordable and reliable. Thanks in advance- -Myles Twete, Portland
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--- Begin Message ---Um.... The Magnechargers are 1/2 of a charge system. You need a car that has a MC port. Connect to vehicle means it is ready to go. Do you have a car/truck with a MC port? Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 2:04 PM Subject: Magne Chargers I just hooked up one of the Magne chargers and the display said " Connect to Vehicle" . What all will that display tell you, volts, amps, ect? It was pluged into a charge port that was out of the vehicle but no difference. No DC out from the charge port. Does it need to see the battery voltage before turning on?
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--- Begin Message ---If I remember right BLDC is normally trapezoidal waveforms and they are synchronized with the rotation. AC induction is normally sine waves and there needs to be some slip. By the time you get to the other side of commutation (electronic or graphite and copper) almost all motors are AC. And the one that isn't is not very useful. Andre' B. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Seth Murray Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 1:09 PM To: EV List Subject: AC induction vs BLDC I feel this question has been answered on the list before, but I couldn't find the answer... what is the difference between BLCD and AC induction? By the time you get to electronic commutation, isn't everything pretty much AC? seth -- QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION '72 Datsun 240Z Conversion http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
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--- Begin Message ---but what about brushless DC? seems like it could give you the torque of the dc motor with the speed of the AC plus regen capabilities.
I really like brushless DC because you can seal the motor against moisture and particle intrusion and there are no brushes to wear. This makes BLDC the longevity leader in my opinion. Properly designed, a BLDC motor should outlast everything else in a given application with zero ongoing maintenance.
With enough budget, I think BLDC can deliver just about any power level or torque curve you want, based on what I've seen in large industrial applications. Also, isn't BLDC the most efficient option available? The downside is the very high cost of course.
That's my .02
-Ken Trough http://visforvoltage.com 24 hour AIM - ktrough 24 hour message center - 866-872-8901
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--- Begin Message ---Um....Yes, I know the Magnechargers are 1/2 of a charge system. I was looking for someone that has actually used them. Does the display only say " connect to vehicle" and "charge done" or is it more intelligent? I have a Mc port that is out of the car which the paddle is pluged in to. I am helping a man that has two electricars(prizm & 3/4 ton pickup) to try and get them going. The batteries are dead on both and he had no charger. Friday , I will take the chargers to the EV's and see what happens but just playing around with them for now. Looks like I will have to tear the MC port apart and see what makes it work. If the rectifiers are in the MC port and the Paddle is inducing then there must be a relay or something inside the MC port that puts the AC to the rectifiers? I think there should be someway to get DC directly out of the back of the MC port even if it is not connected to the charge controller in the EV. I could be wrong but then , what fun I am having. Jack. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 1:32 PMe Subject: Re: Magne Chargers > Um.... > > The Magnechargers are 1/2 of a charge system. You need a car that has a MC > port. > > Connect to vehicle means it is ready to go. Do you have a car/truck with a > MC port? > > Chris > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 2:04 PM > Subject: Magne Chargers > > > I just hooked up one of the Magne chargers and the display said " Connect to > Vehicle" . What all will that display tell you, volts, amps, ect? It was > pluged into a charge port that was out of the vehicle but no difference. No > DC out from the charge port. Does it need to see the battery voltage before > turning on? >
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--- Begin Message ---Thanks, do you know what the 9pin port is for? ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 1:43 PM Subject: Re: Magne Chargers > The charger senses a charge,then shows state of charge and tells you > time to complete charge. >
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--- Begin Message ---How about a series wound brushless DC motor? Replace the permanent magnets on the rotor with a series winding connected thru a set of slip rings. Properly designed and built slip rings should not have the RPM limits that a commutator does. Andre' B.
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--- Begin Message ---No I was thinking of building a car from scratch mostly, but using some front suspension components from a suitable donor. According to RQRiley.com it's not too hard to make your own fiberglass body shell; not that I have done any of that kind of work before. Anyway it would have a sturdy welded frame from steel tubing probably (or I-beams and steel tubing), batteries mounted as low as possible, and a fiberglass body on top just to keep the weather out, but not to depend on it for much of the structure. I'm thinking of putting a continuous tubular bumper all the way around for collision protection. This is a little pie-in-the-sky as I don't really have time at this point, but hope to get around to it sometime in my life. :-) Maybe I'm underestimating but I think a simplified, purpose-built EV could take somewhere around the same time to build as a tough conversion. Anyway I could build the chassis and a roll cage, call it a dune buggy, and worry about the body later. Can anybody recommend a good CAD system for designing such things? I have AutoCAD but it takes too long to do anything significant with it. Heard good things about Solidworks but it's kindof un-affordable. There are lots of free 2D CAD systems but 3D ones are harder to find. --- David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > You might also consider getting wheels offset towards the inside of > the car, and narrow the fenders. Probably a lots less work than > cutting a section out of the center and reconnecting. On a truck, you > could narrow the bed at the rear, but leave it the same size at the > front. The kit car magazines and web pages would be good places to > look for ideas. ===== . _______ Shawn T. Rutledge / KB7PWD [EMAIL PROTECTED] (_ | |_) http://ecloud.org/ [EMAIL PROTECTED] __) | | \______________________________________________ __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want. http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools
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--- Begin Message ---The MC will say what the car wants it to say. The default message is "Connect to Vech" however all further messages are controlled by the car itself. This includes "Full" on my car, along with the percentage charged/remaining Check Vehicle, and whatever else one might want. As to pulling the MC port apart, you could, but I would advise against it. The MC system will not fire up unless the car's computer tells it to. And the car's computer will not do that if the batteries are too low (<250 volts on a Prizm). As to fun, it would be a shame if you wound up breaking this guy's MC system. I have found it to be vastly superior to the Dolphin charger, and it seems to take good care of the Hawkers. If wrecked, I don't know where one would find another. Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 2:53 PM Subject: Re: Magne Chargers > Um....Yes, I know the Magnechargers are 1/2 of a charge system. I was > looking for someone that has actually used them. Does the display only say " > connect to vehicle" and "charge done" or is it more intelligent? I have a Mc > port that is out of the car which the paddle is pluged in to. I am helping a > man that has two electricars(prizm & 3/4 ton pickup) to try and get them > going. The batteries are dead on both and he had no charger. Friday , I will > take the chargers to the EV's and see what happens but just playing around > with them for now. Looks like I will have to tear the MC port apart and see > what makes it work. If the rectifiers are in the MC port and the Paddle is > inducing then there must be a relay or something inside the MC port that > puts the AC to the rectifiers? I think there should be someway to get DC > directly out of the back of the MC port even if it is not connected to the > charge controller in the EV. I could be wrong but then , what fun I am > having. > Jack. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 1:32 PMe > Subject: Re: Magne Chargers > > > > Um.... > > > > The Magnechargers are 1/2 of a charge system. You need a car that has a MC > > port. > > > > Connect to vehicle means it is ready to go. Do you have a car/truck with a > > MC port? > > > > Chris > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 2:04 PM > > Subject: Magne Chargers > > > > > > I just hooked up one of the Magne chargers and the display said " Connect > to > > Vehicle" . What all will that display tell you, volts, amps, ect? It was > > pluged into a charge port that was out of the vehicle but no difference. > No > > DC out from the charge port. Does it need to see the battery voltage > before > > turning on? > >
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--- Begin Message ---Seth Murray wrote: > I feel this question has been answered on the list before, but I > couldn't find the answer... what is the difference between BLDC > and AC induction? By the time you get to electronic commutation, > isn't everything pretty much AC? *All* motors are actually AC motors (except the homopolar motor; it's a special case, and never used). The meaning of "AC induction" motor is pretty well standardized. But "BLDC" is kind of a marketing term that covers a wide range of motor types. One type of BLDC motor is just a regular brushed DC motor, but with the commutator replaced by some kind of electronic switches. It behaves exactly like the corresponding brushed motor (series, shunt, compound wound, etc.) Another type of BLDC is really a standard AC motor, with a DC-to-AC inverter placed inside the same case. It behaves exactly like whatever type of AC motor it is based upon (induction, synchronouus, etc.). Then there are all sorts of imaginative hybrids, where the motor and its control electronics are woven together to get characteristics you wouldn't normally see in any conventional motor. For example, the inverter is optimized to produce square waves (making it simpler and cheaper), and the motor windings are optimized to run on square waves (making it MORE complicated and less efficient). The goal is that the resulting combination is cheaper than if the motor and inverter were treated separately. The BLDC fan motors in all our PCs are examples of this approach. -- "Never doubt that a small group of committed people can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has!" -- Margaret Meade -- Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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--- Begin Message ---This is not his MC port , It came with the Chargers I that I bought, his are still on the vehicles. So if the batteries are below 250 volts how can you fool the MC port to come on? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 2:30 PM Subject: Re: Magne Chargers > The MC will say what the car wants it to say. The default message is > "Connect to Vech" however all further messages are controlled by the car > itself. This includes "Full" on my car, along with the percentage > charged/remaining Check Vehicle, and whatever else one might want. > > As to pulling the MC port apart, you could, but I would advise against it. > The MC system will not fire up unless the car's computer tells it to. And > the car's computer will not do that if the batteries are too low (<250 volts > on a Prizm). > > As to fun, it would be a shame if you wound up breaking this guy's MC > system. I have found it to be vastly superior to the Dolphin charger, and it > seems to take good care of the Hawkers. If wrecked, I don't know where one > would find another. > > Chris > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 2:53 PM > Subject: Re: Magne Chargers > > > > Um....Yes, I know the Magnechargers are 1/2 of a charge system. I was > > looking for someone that has actually used them. Does the display only say > " > > connect to vehicle" and "charge done" or is it more intelligent? I have a > Mc > > port that is out of the car which the paddle is pluged in to. I am helping > a > > man that has two electricars(prizm & 3/4 ton pickup) to try and get them > > going. The batteries are dead on both and he had no charger. Friday , I > will > > take the chargers to the EV's and see what happens but just playing around > > with them for now. Looks like I will have to tear the MC port apart and > see > > what makes it work. If the rectifiers are in the MC port and the Paddle is > > inducing then there must be a relay or something inside the MC port that > > puts the AC to the rectifiers? I think there should be someway to get DC > > directly out of the back of the MC port even if it is not connected to the > > charge controller in the EV. I could be wrong but then , what fun I am > > having. > > Jack. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 1:32 PMe > > Subject: Re: Magne Chargers > > > > > > > Um.... > > > > > > The Magnechargers are 1/2 of a charge system. You need a car that has a > MC > > > port. > > > > > > Connect to vehicle means it is ready to go. Do you have a car/truck with > a > > > MC port? > > > > > > Chris > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 2:04 PM > > > Subject: Magne Chargers > > > > > > > > > I just hooked up one of the Magne chargers and the display said " > Connect > > to > > > Vehicle" . What all will that display tell you, volts, amps, ect? It was > > > pluged into a charge port that was out of the vehicle but no difference. > > No > > > DC out from the charge port. Does it need to see the battery voltage > > before > > > turning on? > > > >
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--- Begin Message ---Well, you could lie to it :-) Seriously, if his pack is below 250 then one has a really serious problem. My pack had sat in a warehouse for years and still had enough oomph to start the Dolphin. If the average battery is truly below 10vpb, then it's probably time for a new pack. People have discussed sending 300 volts down the secondary battery wire; I think that's a great way to burn out the wiring harness. YMMV. Try plugging the MC into the car and see what happens. As to your port, note that the MC will do what the car tells it to do via a RF link. If there is no "car" computer, then putting the paddle into the MC port will not do anything. The car tells the MC to power up, send current into the inductor, how much and at what voltage, etc. Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 3:37 PM Subject: Re: Magne Chargers > This is not his MC port , It came with the Chargers I that I bought, his are > still on the vehicles. So if the batteries are below 250 volts how can you > fool the MC port to come on? > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 2:30 PM > Subject: Re: Magne Chargers > > > > The MC will say what the car wants it to say. The default message is > > "Connect to Vech" however all further messages are controlled by the car > > itself. This includes "Full" on my car, along with the percentage > > charged/remaining Check Vehicle, and whatever else one might want. > > > > As to pulling the MC port apart, you could, but I would advise against it. > > The MC system will not fire up unless the car's computer tells it to. And > > the car's computer will not do that if the batteries are too low (<250 > volts > > on a Prizm). > > > > As to fun, it would be a shame if you wound up breaking this guy's MC > > system. I have found it to be vastly superior to the Dolphin charger, and > it > > seems to take good care of the Hawkers. If wrecked, I don't know where one > > would find another. > > > > Chris > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 2:53 PM > > Subject: Re: Magne Chargers > > > > > > > Um....Yes, I know the Magnechargers are 1/2 of a charge system. I was > > > looking for someone that has actually used them. Does the display only > say > > " > > > connect to vehicle" and "charge done" or is it more intelligent? I have > a > > Mc > > > port that is out of the car which the paddle is pluged in to. I am > helping > > a > > > man that has two electricars(prizm & 3/4 ton pickup) to try and get them > > > going. The batteries are dead on both and he had no charger. Friday , I > > will > > > take the chargers to the EV's and see what happens but just playing > around > > > with them for now. Looks like I will have to tear the MC port apart and > > see > > > what makes it work. If the rectifiers are in the MC port and the Paddle > is > > > inducing then there must be a relay or something inside the MC port that > > > puts the AC to the rectifiers? I think there should be someway to get DC > > > directly out of the back of the MC port even if it is not connected to > the > > > charge controller in the EV. I could be wrong but then , what fun I am > > > having. > > > Jack. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 1:32 PMe > > > Subject: Re: Magne Chargers > > > > > > > > > > Um.... > > > > > > > > The Magnechargers are 1/2 of a charge system. You need a car that has > a > > MC > > > > port. > > > > > > > > Connect to vehicle means it is ready to go. Do you have a car/truck > with > > a > > > > MC port? > > > > > > > > Chris > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 2:04 PM > > > > Subject: Magne Chargers > > > > > > > > > > > > I just hooked up one of the Magne chargers and the display said " > > Connect > > > to > > > > Vehicle" . What all will that display tell you, volts, amps, ect? It > was > > > > pluged into a charge port that was out of the vehicle but no > difference. > > > No > > > > DC out from the charge port. Does it need to see the battery voltage > > > before > > > > turning on? > > > > > >
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--- Begin Message ---The 2004 Tour de Sol is getting closer and closer. The public days are ... Friday, May 21 Register the teams and technical testing in Burlington, New Jersey. Saturday, May 22 Public display in the park as part of Burlington Days Festival Sunday, May 23 Range testing in and around Burlington Monday, May 24 Festival and Autocross in Trenton, New Jersey Tuesday, May 25 New York City Festival and closing Awards Ceremony If you would be interested in volunteering for some or all of those days, contact NESEA. [EMAIL PROTECTED] Northeast Sustainable Energy Association 50 Miles Street Greenfield, MA 01301 413-774-6051 More info at www.TourDeSol.org www.Foveal.com/Tour_de_Sol_Reports.html -- Mike Bianchi
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--- Begin Message --- Rich Rudman wrote:
Yea I vote for a AC drive that is programmable like Ot's Hair ball. Has all the data points prgrammable so we can swap motors to our heart's content. Also there are a few items that could make a genaric AC drive stage even more sweet, Like slecting AC induction, BLDC or 3 channels of DC current, All from the same device.
I think the Seiman's motors are the best for size and wieght, and RPM.
Newer Siemens Simotion inverters use Skiip IGBT modules which is one chunk of aluminum with six pack IGBTs, integrated thermal protection, current sensors, heat sink, etc.
Semicron makes these, I think they are attractive for designers: http://www.power-electronics.de/skcweb/e/products/skiip.html
For DC drives: 600V or 1600A per pair http://www.power-electronics.de/databook/07skiipp/skiip1602gb061-459ctv.pdf
For AC drives: 600V or 800A per phase http://www.power-electronics.de/databook/07skiipp/skiip1602gb061-459ctv.pdf
-- Victor '91 ACRX - something different
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--- Begin Message --- Hi Jack,
I see that Chris Zach has answered most of your questions on a different thread. Most of the information you need is in the files section of the Yahoo USElectricar_EV group. Have you contacted Bruce to get access to the group? Although allot of the USElectricar_EV group members are on this list, there are others who are not.
The DB9 connector that you see is not directly compatible with a PC. It has TTL level signals on nonstandard pins. You need to TTL to RS232 level converter for it. I've made several of these cables before that work for the CC200 charger controller. Chris Zach has one of them. The software you need to reprogram the CC200 is, again, on the USElectricar_EV group. It is capable of programming up to 7 modes of constant voltage or constant current. You can also specify your pack voltage, min/max temperature, and other useful parameters.
There are three boxes used for the MC:
1. Charger port. Accepts charger paddle and outputs inductively coupled AC to power conversion box.
2. CC200 charge controller. The CPU which controls of the boxes and contains the charging algorithm.
3. Power conversion box. Converts from high frequency AC to DC. The output of this goes to the battery pack.
So to answer your question regarding getting DC out of the charger port: No, the charger port outputs high frequency AC.
Also take a look at
http://www.etecevs.com/chargers/wm7200.html
for some specifications about similar (if not the same) chargers as yours.
Alex Karahalios
On Feb 25, 2004, at 10:39 AM, Jack Knopf wrote:
I was asking some questions about the Magne Chargers I bought on ebay. It
looks as if the first part of my message was left out, I will try again. I
see there is a port on the Chargers to hook up a pc, can they be programed
for voltage, current limit, ect.? Where do I find a manual with prints? The
man also had a charge port with the chargers. Can I get DC right out of this
charge port without it talking to the charge controller on the vehicle? I
will figure all this out eventually but with your help it might come a
little quicker.
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--- Begin Message --- Ken Trough wrote:
> I really like brushless DC because you can seal the motor againstmoisture and particle intrusion and there are no brushes to wear. This makes BLDC the longevity leader in my opinion.
Induction or synchronous motors are sealed just as well.
With enough budget, I think BLDC can deliver just about any power level or torque curve you want, based on what I've seen in large industrial applications.
Again, same for induction motors.
-- Victor '91 ACRX - something different
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--- Begin Message ---Thanks, that helps a lot, Jack. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alex Karahalios" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 4:19 PM Subject: Re: Cheap magne chargers on ebay > Hi Jack, > > I see that Chris Zach has answered most of your questions on a > different thread. Most of the information you need is in the files > section of the Yahoo USElectricar_EV group. Have you contacted Bruce to > get access to the group? Although allot of the USElectricar_EV group > members are on this list, there are others who are not. > > The DB9 connector that you see is not directly compatible with a PC. It > has TTL level signals on nonstandard pins. You need to TTL to RS232 > level converter for it. I've made several of these cables before that > work for the CC200 charger controller. Chris Zach has one of them. The > software you need to reprogram the CC200 is, again, on the > USElectricar_EV group. It is capable of programming up to 7 modes of > constant voltage or constant current. You can also specify your pack > voltage, min/max temperature, and other useful parameters. > > There are three boxes used for the MC: > > 1. Charger port. Accepts charger paddle and outputs inductively > coupled AC to power conversion box. > 2. CC200 charge controller. The CPU which controls of the boxes and > contains the charging algorithm. > 3. Power conversion box. Converts from high frequency AC to DC. The > output of this goes to the battery pack. > > So to answer your question regarding getting DC out of the charger > port: No, the charger port outputs high frequency AC. > > Also take a look at > > http://www.etecevs.com/chargers/wm7200.html > > for some specifications about similar (if not the same) chargers as > yours. > > Alex Karahalios > > On Feb 25, 2004, at 10:39 AM, Jack Knopf wrote: > > > I was asking some questions about the Magne Chargers I bought on ebay. > > It > > looks as if the first part of my message was left out, I will try > > again. I > > see there is a port on the Chargers to hook up a pc, can they be > > programed > > for voltage, current limit, ect.? Where do I find a manual with > > prints? The > > man also had a charge port with the chargers. Can I get DC right out > > of this > > charge port without it talking to the charge controller on the > > vehicle? I > > will figure all this out eventually but with your help it might come a > > little quicker. >
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--- Begin Message ---Hello to all.
I pushed this '85 Nissan Sentra in the garage in April '97. Now, seven years later, it's sooo close to being finished!
Ralph Merwin has been kind enough to review my wiring and offer suggestions and support throughout the convertion process. He visited last week-end to check-out my charger hook-up and noticed I had the negative from the charger on the wrong side of the shunt. WOOPS!! I grabbed a wrench and began the switch while Ralph examined the fuse box wiring. I didn't think much of the unsuspected sparks but shortly afterward while trying to put some juice to the batteries we noticed the E-meter would display " 511" in the amp mode. I guess this is the hex sign of a failing E-meter. Drat. Should have disconnected the battery pack.
Ralph thought we might be able to revive it by cutting the power on it's lead for a few seconds. No good. We went to the manual and tried the reset
mode. NO good.
I'm considering sending it back to Xantrex for repair but after reading the statements in the manual like,"Your E-meter purchase includes one 15 minute
phone call. Subsequent calls will be billed $1.00/min.. Have your Visa number ready." kind of made me think I should try you guys first.
Any ideas for a quick fix? Just send it back to Xantrex? Anybody else work on these things?
Thanks to all. Dan Shoop in Portland, OR
--___________________________________________________________
Sign-up for Ads Free at Mail.com
http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
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--- Begin Message --- What dealer? We don't have any in Missouri and when I called the 1-800 number the factory rep referred me to a dealer in Illinois. He reported the NT2 was out of production and being replaced by a new tire I think he called the NRE. Due to snow tire production, those were not expected to be available until March or so.
I need a set for a '95 Force, and had been considering other tires instead.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey, '88 Civic EV '95 Solectria Force (almost there) Kansas City, Missouri EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
At 12:28 PM 2/25/2004, you wrote:Message I received from a tire dealer. Lawrence Rhodes... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greer Enterprises" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 10:27 AM Subject: Re: NRT2 Nokian
> Yes. We have most sizes in stock today. > > Pat > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 2:13 AM > Subject: NRT2 Nokian > > > > Is this tire still available? Lawrence Rhodes...... > > > > > >
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--- Begin Message --------------------- Virus Warning Message (on castor) Found virus WORM_MYDOOM.F in file posting.exe (in posting.zip) The file is deleted. ---------------------------------------------------------Take it------------------ Virus Warning Message (on castor) posting.zip is removed from here because it contains a virus. ---------------------------------------------------------
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--- Begin Message ---The type of bldc I had in mind was the permanent magnet on the rotor type, with commutation achieved electronically on the field magnets. Gadget --- Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Seth Murray wrote: > > I feel this question has been answered on the list > before, but I > > couldn't find the answer... what is the > difference between BLDC > > and AC induction? By the time you get to > electronic commutation, > > isn't everything pretty much AC? > > *All* motors are actually AC motors (except the > homopolar motor; it's a > special case, and never used). > > The meaning of "AC induction" motor is pretty well > standardized. But > "BLDC" is kind of a marketing term that covers a > wide range of motor > types. > > One type of BLDC motor is just a regular brushed DC > motor, but with the > commutator replaced by some kind of electronic > switches. It behaves > exactly like the corresponding brushed motor > (series, shunt, compound > wound, etc.) > > Another type of BLDC is really a standard AC motor, > with a DC-to-AC > inverter placed inside the same case. It behaves > exactly like whatever > type of AC motor it is based upon (induction, > synchronouus, etc.). > > Then there are all sorts of imaginative hybrids, > where the motor and its > control electronics are woven together to get > characteristics you > wouldn't normally see in any conventional motor. For > example, the > inverter is optimized to produce square waves > (making it simpler and > cheaper), and the motor windings are optimized to > run on square waves > (making it MORE complicated and less efficient). The > goal is that the > resulting combination is cheaper than if the motor > and inverter were > treated separately. The BLDC fan motors in all our > PCs are examples of > this approach. > -- > "Never doubt that a small group of committed people > can change the > world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has!" > -- Margaret Meade > -- > Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 > leeahart_at_earthlink.net > ===== visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
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--- Begin Message ---On Tue, 2004-02-24 at 23:04, Shawn Rutledge wrote: > On Tue, Feb 24, 2004 at 07:28:18PM -0800, Lee Hart wrote: > > If you're building a car for yourself, it doesn't really matter much if > > it has 3 wheels for 4. The requirements for licensing a homebuilt > > 4-wheeler aren't that much more difficult. > > I'm thinking about efficiency more than licensing. I was thinking of using > two ETek motors and two belts or chains, one on each side of the single > rear wheel. But then changing the tire would be a lot of work. You're making it too complicated. Use one drive chain. Setup one motor to run reversed and mount the two motors nose to nose with the drive sprocket on a coupler that connects both shafts. Use the rear suspension from a RWD vehicle with IRS (like a VW or Porsche). Pull the CV joint and mount the rear sprocket to the stub-axle. That way you can keep the stock brake system intact on the swingarm. -- +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ The problem with the world is stupidity. Not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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