EV Digest 3386
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) OT(?) Electric Groundskeeping
by "Chris Tromley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: OT(?) Electric Groundskeeping
by Derrick J Brashear <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Motor properties
by "1sclunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Grid-powered "dump charging"
by Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Grid-powered "dump charging"
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
6) Aspire rearend by a SUV
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) fiero gas tank tunnel
by Fortunat Mueller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: Aspire rearend by a SUV
by David Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: OT(?) Electric Groundskeeping
by Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Grid-powered "dump charging" Europe & EVs
by Marc Geller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) DCP T-Rex remote display
by Ben Apollonio <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Motor properties
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: fiero gas tank tunnel
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Aspire rearend by a SUV
by Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Aspire rearend by a SUV
by Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: DCP T-Rex remote display
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Home made dynos with torque sensors
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Motor properties
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Your document
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
20) Re: OT(?) Electric Groundskeeping
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: OT(?) Electric Groundskeeping
by "Chris Tromley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: Motor properties
by "Andre Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Motor properties
by "Tom Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Aspire rearend by a SUV
by Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Aspire rearend by a SUV
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Motor properties
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Motor properties
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: DCP T-Rex remote display
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Green Emeter, Lucus Effect - Wabbit Weport
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
30) Re: Aspire rearend by a SUV
by "Mark Thomasson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I've just moved to a new house. (Which is why progress on LeSled has
been at a standstill for way too long.) The old place was on a postage
stamp size lot with a single tree. The new place is 3/4 acre with over
50 trees. In terms of yard maintenance I've gone from blissfully
ignorant to Junior Forest Ranger.
I *really* want to manage the new yard ICE-free. My B&D electric mower
should reach all corners of the lot if I add another cord, so I'll
probably start out with that. I also want to spend as little time as
possible on yard work, so I'm willing to spend some bucks for equipment
to make that happen. The problem is, what equipment?
I'm keeping my eyes open for an Elec-Trak to handle mowing and snow
plowing, and maybe even some grading. All those trees will drop lots of
pine needles, 3-4" long pine cones, deciduous leaves and those golf ball
size spiky things. There will also be a steady supply of small branches
to dispose of.
There is free municipal pick-up, but the sheer volume demands that it be
chipped or shredded. I've seen the McCulloch chipper-shredders
http://www.mccullochpower.com/shredder.htm and the Flowtron leaf
shredder (mixed reviews at Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00006XMTM/104-9699675-294
3131?v=glance&vi=customer-reviews. Haven't seen an electric version of
a *real* chipper yet.
Then I learned about lawn vacuum/shredders.
http://products.consumerguide.com/cp/family/review/index.cfm/id/24641
No one seems to make an electric one, but they appear to save you the
time of raking up leaves and even have a handy hose to clean out flower
beds and such. Anyone use one? Do they work? (Even on pine cones and
those spiky thingies?) If so, I'd consider getting one to convert to
electric. Is there such a thing that could be towed by the Elec-Trak
but doesn't cost as much as a car?
And lastly, I know there must be some discussion lists for hobbyist
gardeners/landscapers that would be very helpful. Any recommendations?
TIA,
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 2 Mar 2004, Chris Tromley wrote:
> I *really* want to manage the new yard ICE-free. My B&D electric mower
> should reach all corners of the lot if I add another cord, so I'll
> probably start out with that. I also want to spend as little time as
> possible on yard work, so I'm willing to spend some bucks for equipment
> to make that happen. The problem is, what equipment?
The RoboMower I got is nice; 2.5 hours on a charge, once you put down the
perimeter wire it does most of the work by itself, but since you need to
suck up stuff it may not be for you. It's passive, e.g. the blades spin
but there is no suck.
I got an RL500. I think Amazon lists the newer RL800 now.
Sadly even with 2.5 hours of charge I doubt I could drive it to work;-)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: "Rich Rudman"
>
> I am not trying to reinvent the world. I am messing with gear that can
> make a few hundred ft lbs of torque. Frankly I can't see how a zero
> BEMF motor can work, or how the techniques could have any effects on the
> grunt low tech business of Brushed series wound motors.
>
But You do have a motor hooked up to a generator, which we all know that the
sight of this will whip "gen on a wheel" foke into a frenzy.
>
> Alot of listers want to hear the real test data, and the stories that
> are made by doing the hardwork, and making it happen. The Bad and the
> good, and the answered questions reduced to practical procedures and
> concepts. That's why I am here.
All this is very intersting to me as I need to advance the timing on the
Mazda I believe its set at netruel , which I now know how to check for ,
from your last post. ( This is probable what killed the big t-rex) . How far
to advance ? What effect dose the voltage/amps have on how far to advance ?
What are the down sides to having the motor set for hard core racing when
doing regular driving ?
>
> Tonight I have the charger production late shift, and 4 board sets to
> load and low power, This is the nuts and bolts of what I have to do to
> keep the light on around here, and maybe scratch some late hours out in
> the cold getting the 1000 lbs force sensor bolted up to the dyno in a
> manner that won't break it. This is NOT going to be easy.
Been thinking about a water cooled chargers?. I can see with at Zilla
becoming popular people will have the pump setup and would be easy to run a
water line to charger also.
Steve Clunn
>
>
> --
> Rich Rudman
> Manzanita Micro
> www.manzanitamicro.com
> 1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Schacherl Jens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Only a few of these stations are installed in some european
> countries.
> No EVs, "no demand"...
And what does gasoline cost there? Something like it does in England,
I suspect?
I would expect Europe to be leading us in EV usage... higher gas
prices, smaller distances, more crowded downtown areas, in some ways
more progressive-thinking people.
=====
. _______ Shawn T. Rutledge / KB7PWD [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(_ | |_) http://ecloud.org/ [EMAIL PROTECTED]
__) | | \______________________________________________
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you�re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Chris said (in part)
> Makes sense. It takes a solid 30amps at 240 volts to charge the
> Prizm and even that provides only [EMAIL PROTECTED] volts base (well, up
> to 375, but you get the point). This will bring me 36 miles of
> range in 2 hours. To do this in 7.5 minutes would take eight
> times the power, or 240 amps dual phase or perhaps 160 amps 3
> phase 240 volts.
> To go 140 miles in a theoretical Lithium battery would take 8
> hours, four times as long. Hawkers can take a fast charge rate,
> but I don't think Lithiums can. Even if they could, to bring the
> pack up to full in 7.5 minutes would now take 320 amps at 3 phase
> 480 volts.
> Multiply that by eight cars charging at once at 8 pumps and you
> have a lot of power needed. The sheer amount of energy in
> gasoline is staggering, even extracted at the inefficient amounts
> of an ICE...
That last part is certainly true enough!
However with that said, the point of this reply is that the impression I
got from Chris's comments was that it would take a large enough amount of
power that it would be hard to get for an electric filling station. You're
thinking too much residential. Note who I work for in my signature line...
The high capacity lithium pack recharging in 7.5 minutes is only a load of
about 1/4 megawatt. Charging 8 such packs at the same time is therefore
only 2 megawatts. A typical residential distribution line at 12KV can
easily handle 10 - 12 MW (and does not normally carry anywhere near that
much). A 16KV distribution line can go quite a bit higher. For areas that
have 4KV distribution, it would be a bit of a problem, but not much of
anybody has built 4KV distribution in quite a while except for some very
small systems. Distribution in commercial areas allows quite a bit more
load than residential areas. If we really did have large charging stations
on every other street corner (as there is for gasoline stations now), it
would be noticeable and would require some upgrading, but that is a long
way off and could easily be phased in over time. Remember that we like
large load customers - makes lots of money for us. Keeps my 401k going
strong!
In other words, it's just not that big of a deal.
-----------------------
Jim Walls - K6CCC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Southern California Edison Co.
Ofc: 626-302-8515
FAX: 626-302-7501
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A very nice SUV met the back of my Aspire yesterday. I was stopped at a red
light. It looks like a total. The batteries in the spare tire well in a
custom stainless box don't seem compressed much. Voltage didn't drop. I
drove the car off to the side of the road and the right back tire popped.
It was towed to a body shop. The guy doesn't have insurance but he has
friends at the body shop. I am a little stiff today. He says his dog
jumped on his lap he looked down and when he looked up I was there.
MAN..... The right side doors won't open easily and the roof has some
rolling dents from compression. My seat went back at a 45� angle. I don't
know if anyone else has had their 3500 pound mini car hit like this but I am
having bad feelings even though the repair person at the shop says they can
fix it. What should I do. The police came and a report was made. Lawrence
Rhodes......
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
hey,
i pulled the gas tank out of the fiero last night. It
occupies some prime real estate (for those not
familiar with the fiero, the gas tank is between the
seats, sort of where the transmission tunnel would be
if the car wasn't rear engine-rear drive).
it made me wonder, with all the people having
converted fiero's. how come i've never seen anyone
stuff a handful of batteries up there where the tank
was ? I didn't measure the dimensions but surely it is
big enough for 3-4, no ?
I suppose this is a better idea for SLA's, but i am
wondering if anyone has done it ? if not, but you
considered it...why not ?
~fortunat
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you�re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Man! Sorry to hear that, Lawrence! Hope you are doing OK.
What kind of insurance did you have on the Aspire? Just liability or
collision, too? Since he wasn't insured, get your insurance co. to pony up
for a lawyer. Never believe them when they "have a friend in the business."
I have had (bad) experience with that!
I would think you need to pull all the affected electrical components and
add in the value to replace any that are damaged, even in the slightest.
Get that cost added to the repair estimate. Include your time spent to
disassemble and inspect it. It would also be good to have another
EV-knowledgeable person there during the inspection, to lend more
credibility to the claims. Insurance companies usually like that.
Keep us posted.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lawrence Rhodes [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 11:29 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Aspire rearend by a SUV
>
> A very nice SUV met the back of my Aspire yesterday. I was
> stopped at a red
> light. It looks like a total. The batteries in the spare
> tire well in a
> custom stainless box don't seem compressed much. Voltage
> didn't drop. I drove the car off to the side of the road and
> the right back tire popped.
> It was towed to a body shop. The guy doesn't have insurance
> but he has friends at the body shop. I am a little stiff
> today. He says his dog jumped on his lap he looked down and
> when he looked up I was there.
> MAN..... The right side doors won't open easily and the roof
> has some rolling dents from compression. My seat went back
> at a 45� angle. I don't know if anyone else has had their
> 3500 pound mini car hit like this but I am having bad
> feelings even though the repair person at the shop says they
> can fix it. What should I do. The police came and a report
> was made. Lawrence Rhodes......
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Harbor Freight has a cheapie chipper/shredder that looks something like
the McCullough ones.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=9661
I'm tempted to get one but I bet I'd be disappointed.
Anyway it sounds like you should be doing some composting.
> 3131?v=glance&vi=customer-reviews. Haven't seen an electric version
> of
> a *real* chipper yet.
Agreed. I think it would need to be of the eccentric-flywheel-driven
variety, with the blade reciprocating up and down. I remember somebody
advertising one like that a long time ago but I suppose it was
gas-powered.
=====
. _______ Shawn T. Rutledge / KB7PWD [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(_ | |_) http://ecloud.org/ [EMAIL PROTECTED]
__) | | \______________________________________________
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you�re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Why Europe doesn't have a niche consumer EV market, why the Euro car
makers haven't made cars, and why govt has forced the issue is a big
question I'd really like the answer to.
On Mar 2, 2004, at 9:19 AM, Shawn Rutledge wrote:
--- Schacherl Jens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Only a few of these stations are installed in some european
countries.
No EVs, "no demand"...
And what does gasoline cost there? Something like it does in England,
I suspect?
I would expect Europe to be leading us in EV usage... higher gas
prices, smaller distances, more crowded downtown areas, in some ways
more progressive-thinking people.
=====
. _______ Shawn T. Rutledge / KB7PWD [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(_ | |_) http://ecloud.org/ [EMAIL PROTECTED]
__) | | \______________________________________________
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you�re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does anybody know which wires connect to which LED's for the DCP
T-Rex's remote display? I have the original module, but my car has
relatively limited dashboard space, so I'd like to custom implement
something. Are they common cathode or common anode? What size
resistors should I use (if any)?
Thanks
-Ben
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey All,
What's wrong with no BEMF, it seems simple to me.
Maybe all he's done is make his motor into a SR or VR motor.
(Switched Reluctance or Variable Reluctance)
These motors have no magnets, just a iron core. They work a bit like
many solenoids, a bit like the simplest motor you could imagine.
Here's a animation:
http://www.cs.uiowa.edu/~jones/step/typesf/1anim.html
They are commonly used as stepper motors, but were also used in a
electric motorcycle (Lectra?) They have often been listed as the holy
grail of EV motors if the noise problems could be resolved.
Advantages are high efficiency, low mass and very high rpm (due to no BEMF)
Disadvantages are high mechanical noise, expensive electronics and
very difficult to design well.
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Its been done with the Toyota MR2, which has the same design.
-Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Fortunat Mueller
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 9:54 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: fiero gas tank tunnel
hey,
i pulled the gas tank out of the fiero last night. It
occupies some prime real estate (for those not
familiar with the fiero, the gas tank is between the
seats, sort of where the transmission tunnel would be
if the car wasn't rear engine-rear drive).
it made me wonder, with all the people having
converted fiero's. how come i've never seen anyone
stuff a handful of batteries up there where the tank
was ? I didn't measure the dimensions but surely it is
big enough for 3-4, no ?
I suppose this is a better idea for SLA's, but i am
wondering if anyone has done it ? if not, but you
considered it...why not ?
~fortunat
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yikes that sounds like a lot of damage for that guy to pay to have
fixed with his own money. I recently had a small accident with similar
results... no license, no insurance, he offered to pay but where is he
now. Haven't heard from him and can't get him on the phone anymore. I
have to go pay him a visit again one of these days, but probably only
to hear his latest excuse. In my case at least I can still drive the
car, it just has a dent I will want to get fixed some day. The guy hit
the rear axle from the side, and the impact was absorbed by the car
going for a spin rather than by excessive crumpling.
Do you have collision coverage? At least then you can let your
insurance co. go after him instead of doing it yourself, and either way
it will be paid for. Otherwise if they run up a $10K bill at the body
shop and he can't pay for it, his being buddies with them isn't going
to get you your car back. And if he could afford to pay for it, he
could've afforded insurance too. But maybe it won't really cost so
much.
I'd like to try and build an EV stiff enough to survive low-speed
crashes like that, with a bumper designed to bend and absorb the impact
(and then be replaced) rather than crumpling supporting structures and
everything inside. But as has been pointed out, if the car doesn't
crumple, it means your body will be subjected to stronger jolts which
you might not survive.
The only real solution would be to quit driving altogether, and live in
a dense city environment where you can walk to work. No need for
transportation would eliminate at least half the risk we face in our
lives, as well as the pollution problem and usage of fossil fuels that
we're trying to solve with EVs. But it's not as much fun.
--- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> A very nice SUV met the back of my Aspire yesterday. I was stopped at
> a red
> light. It looks like a total. The batteries in the spare tire well
> in a
> custom stainless box don't seem compressed much. Voltage didn't
> drop. I
> drove the car off to the side of the road and the right back tire
> popped.
> It was towed to a body shop. The guy doesn't have insurance but he
> has
> friends at the body shop. I am a little stiff today. He says his
> dog
> jumped on his lap he looked down and when he looked up I was there.
> MAN..... The right side doors won't open easily and the roof has
> some
> rolling dents from compression. My seat went back at a 45� angle. I
> don't
> know if anyone else has had their 3500 pound mini car hit like this
> but I am
> having bad feelings even though the repair person at the shop says
> they can
> fix it. What should I do. The police came and a report was made.
> Lawrence
> Rhodes......
>
=====
. _______ Shawn T. Rutledge / KB7PWD [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(_ | |_) http://ecloud.org/ [EMAIL PROTECTED]
__) | | \______________________________________________
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you�re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bummer! Do you have 'uninsured motorist' coverage? Do you believe the
guy when he says he doesn't have insurance? Maybe he's just trying to
keep the accident off his policy.
I'd at least take it to a different body shop for an estimate.
Ralph
Lawrence Rhodes writes:
>
> A very nice SUV met the back of my Aspire yesterday. I was stopped at a red
> light. It looks like a total. The batteries in the spare tire well in a
> custom stainless box don't seem compressed much. Voltage didn't drop. I
> drove the car off to the side of the road and the right back tire popped.
> It was towed to a body shop. The guy doesn't have insurance but he has
> friends at the body shop. I am a little stiff today. He says his dog
> jumped on his lap he looked down and when he looked up I was there.
> MAN..... The right side doors won't open easily and the roof has some
> rolling dents from compression. My seat went back at a 45� angle. I don't
> know if anyone else has had their 3500 pound mini car hit like this but I am
> having bad feelings even though the repair person at the shop says they can
> fix it. What should I do. The police came and a report was made. Lawrence
> Rhodes......
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
For my truck, I opened up the original module (just a tiny screw on the
back) and took the 3 LED's out. I kept the LED's all wired up and
mounted them into the back of my dashboard, in the blank where the
indicator for an automatic transmission would go. Then added a bunch of
epoxy and was all set. It was just the LEDs, so I assume the resistors
are back in the controller box somewhere. I didn't notice if common
cathode or common anode, but a little exploratory surgery should reveal
that.
Ben Apollonio wrote:
Does anybody know which wires connect to which LED's for the DCP T-Rex's
remote display? I have the original module, but my car has relatively
limited dashboard space, so I'd like to custom implement something. Are
they common cathode or common anode? What size resistors should I use
(if any)?
Thanks
-Ben
--
_________
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak
1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
http://www.eeevee.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rod Hower wrote:
>
> Thanks for the picture, unfortunately the sensor
> is sitting on top of the price.
> How much did you pay for this sensor?
> Thanks,
> Rod
$300 even, with NIST tracking documents.
Nice piece of gear.
I hope I get to it this week... the orders for Green boxes is getting
over whelming again.
--
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
1sclunn wrote:
>
> From: "Rich Rudman"
>
> >
> > I am not trying to reinvent the world. I am messing with gear that can
> > make a few hundred ft lbs of torque. Frankly I can't see how a zero
> > BEMF motor can work, or how the techniques could have any effects on the
> > grunt low tech business of Brushed series wound motors.
> >
> But You do have a motor hooked up to a generator, which we all know that the
> sight of this will whip "gen on a wheel" foke into a frenzy.
>
> >
> > Alot of listers want to hear the real test data, and the stories that
> > are made by doing the hardwork, and making it happen. The Bad and the
> > good, and the answered questions reduced to practical procedures and
> > concepts. That's why I am here.
>
> All this is very intersting to me as I need to advance the timing on the
> Mazda I believe its set at netruel , which I now know how to check for ,
> from your last post. ( This is probable what killed the big t-rex) . How far
> to advance ? What effect dose the voltage/amps have on how far to advance ?
> What are the down sides to having the motor set for hard core racing when
> doing regular driving ?
>
> >
> > Tonight I have the charger production late shift, and 4 board sets to
> > load and low power, This is the nuts and bolts of what I have to do to
> > keep the light on around here, and maybe scratch some late hours out in
> > the cold getting the 1000 lbs force sensor bolted up to the dyno in a
> > manner that won't break it. This is NOT going to be easy.
>
> Been thinking about a water cooled chargers?. I can see with at Zilla
> becoming popular people will have the pump setup and would be easy to run a
> water line to charger also.
> Steve Clunn
> >
> >
> > --
> > Rich Rudman
> > Manzanita Micro
> > www.manzanitamicro.com
> > 1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
> >
I have done 4 water cooled PFC20s. I charge a blanket $500 premium for
this. I have not done one in months to years. Then they come in large
batches. I need to do a Rev6 PCB set up with the new Caps, and circuit
board.
They are a lot of hassel. I am not sure I would just take a order
without some real thinking, and maybe wanting some kind of volume, like
say 2 or 3 orders at at time.
--
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
--- End Message ---
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Found virus WORM_NETSKY.D in file your_document.pif
The file is deleted.
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Your document is attached.
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your_document.pif is removed from here because it contains a virus.
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--- Begin Message ---
Where abouts are you located? Might get lucky and find an ElecTrak
nearby.... if your not already on the Elec-Trak discussion list, you'd
do well to join. There are a ton of gardening/landscaping lists...
google around to one in your area and maybe head for the "organic" ones
as likely to be more receptive to electric everything.
I looked around a bunch a year or two ago and unfortunately came to the
same conclusion that shredders for leaves & twigs are available, but
nothing electric for chipping actual branches. Perhaps you can find a
good deal on a used chipper meant for a tractor PTO (Power take off,
used with Class XX hitches on tractors a bit bigger than the ET). Rather
than hook it to a tractor, keep it stationary and stick an electric
motor on the PTO shaft and run an extension cord into your house.
Tractor PTOs run at a semi-constant speed so should be able to find a
motor of matching RPM.
(PS I'll second the comment to think about composting... compost is
called "black gold" for good reason :-)
Chris Tromley wrote:
I *really* want to manage the new yard ICE-free. My B&D electric mower
should reach all corners of the lot if I add another cord, so I'll
probably start out with that. I also want to spend as little time as
possible on yard work, so I'm willing to spend some bucks for equipment
to make that happen. The problem is, what equipment?
_________
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak
1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
http://www.eeevee.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Shawn Rutledge wrote:
> Harbor Freight has a cheapie chipper/shredder that looks
> something like the McCullough ones.
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=9661
>
> I'm tempted to get one but I bet I'd be disappointed.
Yeah, I've seen those. I have no experience here, but some of the user
reviews suggest I should be buying something that looks like it was
built by a good ol' boy in a welding shop and weighs a couple hundred
pounds. I don't want to have to buy a new one next year.
> Anyway it sounds like you should be doing some composting.
The previous owners of the house did, and the compost built up faster
than they could use it. The left-over piles from last season are taking
up a big chunk of space. My 50+ trees is probably enough to keep me and
several of my neighbors in compost. Most of it's gotta go. It won't go
to waste, though. My local township composts all yard waste (except
grass). I'll just be pre-shredding it for them to keep the volume
manageable.
> > 3131?v=glance&vi=customer-reviews. Haven't seen an
> electric version
> > of a *real* chipper yet.
>
> Agreed. I think it would need to be of the
> eccentric-flywheel-driven variety, with the blade
> reciprocating up and down. I remember somebody advertising
> one like that a long time ago but I suppose it was gas-powered.
I haven't seen one of those. If anyone comes across a picture or link,
please pass it on off-list. I'll probably end up converting something
later this summer.
Thanks to everyone for the help on this, both on-list and off.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Are you sure?
I am finding a lot of references to variable reluctance generators. Even
solenoids generate back emf.
Andre' B.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Otmar
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 12:23 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Motor properties
Hey All,
What's wrong with no BEMF, it seems simple to me.
Maybe all he's done is make his motor into a SR or VR motor.
(Switched Reluctance or Variable Reluctance)
These motors have no magnets, just a iron core. They work a bit like
many solenoids, a bit like the simplest motor you could imagine.
Here's a animation:
http://www.cs.uiowa.edu/~jones/step/typesf/1anim.html
They are commonly used as stepper motors, but were also used in a
electric motorcycle (Lectra?) They have often been listed as the holy
grail of EV motors if the noise problems could be resolved.
Advantages are high efficiency, low mass and very high rpm (due to no BEMF)
Disadvantages are high mechanical noise, expensive electronics and
very difficult to design well.
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Otmar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: Motor properties
> Hey All,
>
> What's wrong with no BEMF, it seems simple to me.
>
> Maybe all he's done is make his motor into a SR or VR motor.
> (Switched Reluctance or Variable Reluctance)
>
> These motors have no magnets, just a iron core. They work a bit like
> many solenoids, a bit like the simplest motor you could imagine.
> Here's a animation:
>
> http://www.cs.uiowa.edu/~jones/step/typesf/1anim.html
>
> They are commonly used as stepper motors, but were also used in a
> electric motorcycle (Lectra?) They have often been listed as the holy
> grail of EV motors if the noise problems could be resolved.
>
> Advantages are high efficiency, low mass and very high rpm (due to no
BEMF)
> Disadvantages are high mechanical noise, expensive electronics and
> very difficult to design well.
>
> --
> -Otmar-
Reluctance motors produce a back emf although one might choose to call it
something else. Voltages are induced in the windings when the motor runs.
There's no escaping back emf. The process of converting electric power to
mechanical power or vice versa can't be done without back emf. Even the
sinplest solenoid produces back emf when its armature moves.
Tom Shay
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Back in 1991 or so I had another accident, again the other party was
at-fault, and they took off on foot because they knew they were in
trouble (couple of drunk Mexicans driving a stolen pickup). The cops
never caught them and they didn't have insurance anyway. I found out
then that "uninsured motorist" coverage doesn't protect you at all, and
certainly not your car... its only purpose is to pay excess medical
claims that nobody else pays, for the other guy, not for you. In other
words if the guy that hits you gets injured and has no insurance to
cover it, your uninsured coverage will. (Why that's my liability at
all eludes me.) At least that's what they told me at the time. That's
why it's so cheap, because it's nearly useless.
--- Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Bummer! Do you have 'uninsured motorist' coverage? Do you believe
> the
> guy when he says he doesn't have insurance? Maybe he's just trying
> to
> keep the accident off his policy.
That's a good question too.
=====
. _______ Shawn T. Rutledge / KB7PWD [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(_ | |_) http://ecloud.org/ [EMAIL PROTECTED]
__) | | \______________________________________________
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you�re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Lawrence and All,
--- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> A very nice SUV met the back of my Aspire yesterday.
> I was stopped at a red
> light. It looks like a total. The batteries in
> the spare tire well in a
> custom stainless box don't seem compressed much.
> Voltage didn't drop. I
> drove the car off to the side of the road and the
> right back tire popped.
> It was towed to a body shop. The guy doesn't have
> insurance but he has
> friends at the body shop. I am a little stiff
> today. He says his dog
> jumped on his lap he looked down and when he looked
> up I was there.
> MAN..... The right side doors won't open easily and
> the roof has some
> rolling dents from compression. My seat went back
> at a 45� angle. I don't
> know if anyone else has had their 3500 pound mini
> car hit like this but I am
> having bad feelings even though the repair person at
> the shop says they can
> fix it. What should I do. The police came and a
> report was made. Lawrence
> Rhodes......
>
Ouch!!!
If you liked the Aspire then they should be able
to find a good one cheap, prep it for you to take the
e parts and cash to pay for the rest of the work,
costs would be your best bet.
I wouldn't try to fix it as the unibody has
probably been bent making it likely that down the road
it would break under the load of batts.
But if he had a nice SUV, he's probably paying
for it and has an insurance policy.
Get any offer in writing and have the shop sign
it that he pays and they can't keep the car if he
doesn't.
I'd call the prosecutor so when he pleads, as
part of his sentence fixing your car is part of it.
Good luck,
jerry dycus
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you�re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.ecgf.uakron.edu/husain/personal/pdf/IATran01Anwar.pdf
Check out page 9.
While it's true that spining a SR rotor produces no
voltage on the stator field windings, it's doing no
work.
It still has BEMF when it's run as a motor.
Rod
--- Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hey All,
>
> What's wrong with no BEMF, it seems simple to me.
>
> Maybe all he's done is make his motor into a SR or
> VR motor.
> (Switched Reluctance or Variable Reluctance)
>
> These motors have no magnets, just a iron core. They
> work a bit like
> many solenoids, a bit like the simplest motor you
> could imagine.
> Here's a animation:
>
>
http://www.cs.uiowa.edu/~jones/step/typesf/1anim.html
>
> They are commonly used as stepper motors, but were
> also used in a
> electric motorcycle (Lectra?) They have often been
> listed as the holy
> grail of EV motors if the noise problems could be
> resolved.
>
> Advantages are high efficiency, low mass and very
> high rpm (due to no BEMF)
> Disadvantages are high mechanical noise, expensive
> electronics and
> very difficult to design well.
>
> --
> -Otmar-
>
> http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
> http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 2:26 PM -0600 3-2-04, Andre Blanchard wrote:
Are you sure?
I am finding a lot of references to variable reluctance generators. Even
solenoids generate back emf.
At 12:38 PM -0800 3-2-04, Tom Shay wrote:
Reluctance motors produce a back emf although one might choose to call it
something else. Voltages are induced in the windings when the motor runs.
There's no escaping back emf. The process of converting electric power to
mechanical power or vice versa can't be done without back emf. Even the
sinplest solenoid produces back emf when its armature moves.
Tom Shay
Ah yes,
Andre and Tom,
You are both right.
I was incorrect in my definition of BEMF. When they are excited
properly they certainly do produce Back EMF.
btw: here's an interesting note I saw on it:
http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/phy00/phy00351.htm
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jim Coate wrote:
>
> For my truck, I opened up the original module (just a tiny screw on the
> back) and took the 3 LED's out. I kept the LED's all wired up and
> mounted them into the back of my dashboard, in the blank where the
> indicator for an automatic transmission would go. Then added a bunch of
> epoxy and was all set. It was just the LEDs, so I assume the resistors
> are back in the controller box somewhere. I didn't notice if common
> cathode or common anode, but a little exploratory surgery should reveal
> that.
>
> Ben Apollonio wrote:
> > Does anybody know which wires connect to which LED's for the DCP T-Rex's
> > remote display? I have the original module, but my car has relatively
> > limited dashboard space, so I'd like to custom implement something. Are
> > they common cathode or common anode? What size resistors should I use
> > (if any)?
> >
> > Thanks
> > -Ben
> >
> >
>
> --
>
> _________
> Jim Coate
> 1970's Elec-Trak
> 1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
> 1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
> http://www.eeevee.com
I found the original schemtic yesterday. Let me know if you need the
data.
Rj 1 nc
2 RED LED
3 Yellow LED
4 Green led
5 gnd to a 1n4005, the anode goes to the common cathodes of all the
leds
6 nc
Leds are jumped with a 1K, and a .1uf cap for a filter.
--
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bill Dube<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said (in part):
> When we got up to the Wabbit, Steve went over to pull the plug. Steve
> said, "Man it really stinks over here. Come over here and check it out."
> At that moment, I figured out why all the parking lot was so dark.
Don't keep us in suspense. Tell the rest of the story!
-----------------------
Jim Walls - K6CCC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Mobile Radio Operations
Southern California Edison Co.
Ofc: 626-302-8515
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Uninsured motorist coverage does cover your property and medical costs in
Texas. My wife was rear ended in 1996. State Farm initially paid for the
damages ($1200) minus the deductible. Even for this small claim, they took
the uninsured guy to court and made him pay up, after which I was reimbursed
for the deductible part also. Getting the money back was good, but it was
really satisfying knowing this guy was forced to take financial
responsibility for his actions. Mark T.
> then that "uninsured motorist" coverage doesn't protect you at all, and
> certainly not your car... its only purpose is to pay excess medical
> claims that nobody else pays, for the other guy, not for you. In other
> words if the guy that hits you gets injured and has no insurance to
> cover it, your uninsured coverage will. (Why that's my liability at
> all eludes me.) At least that's what they told me at the time. That's
> why it's so cheap, because it's nearly useless.
>
> --- Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Bummer! Do you have 'uninsured motorist' coverage? Do you believe
> > the
> > guy when he says he doesn't have insurance? Maybe he's just trying
> > to
> > keep the accident off his policy.
>
--- End Message ---
