EV Digest 3387
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: DCP T-Rex remote display
by Richard Bebbington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Grid-powered "dump charging" Europe & EVs
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) PFC Series Chargers on Inverter
by Edward Ang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Aspire rearend by a SUV
by Marvin Campbell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) No board better to ask then this one
by Lee Dekker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) E-tractor mower -which motor(s)?
by JCT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: BLDC go cart pics
by "Peter Eckhoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Car trailer
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
9) Re: PFC Series Chargers on Inverter
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: E-tractor mower -which motor(s)?
by Lonnie Borntreger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Aspire rearend by a SUV
by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Aspire rearend by a SUV
by "Peter Eckhoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Motor properties
by Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Discovery delays launch of "Sucking Amps"
by Roderick Wilde <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Motor properties
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Discovery delays launch of "Sucking Amps"
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: OT Re: Playing with a Basic Stamp
by Michael Hurley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: DCP T-Rex remote display
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Look at my plan for my ev and give me input
by "brian G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: DCP T-Rex remote display
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Tuscon, Arizona - Public Charging Station Info
by "Mason Convey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: fiero gas tank tunnel
by Ken Lange <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Look at my plan for my ev and give me input
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Tuscon, Arizona - Public Charging Station Info
by Alex Karahalios <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Motor properties
by "Jon \"Sheer\" Pullen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: DCP T-Rex remote display
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: No board better to ask then this one
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Aspire rearend by a SUV
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Aspire rearend by a SUV
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) There is hope.
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Rich Rudman wrote:
I found the original schemtic yesterday. Let me know if you need the
data.
Rj 1 nc
2 RED LED
3 Yellow LED
4 Green led
5 gnd to a 1n4005, the anode goes to the common cathodes of all the
leds
6 nc
Leds are jumped with a 1K, and a .1uf cap for a filter.
Does that schematic detail the tach sensor? If it does,
could you send me the details?
I still haven't had any luck trying to figure out the
connections in my Raptor600, and would like to connect
a proximity sensor to it ( produces a nice 2x rpm pulse
train, active-low 12v ) to use the rpm limit.
Kind of useful, if my belt drive breaks...
( I sure hope not! )
Thanks
Richard Bebbington
electric Mini pickup
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Marc Geller wrote:
Why Europe doesn't have a niche consumer EV market, why the Euro car
makers haven't made cars, and why govt has forced the issue is a big
question I'd really like the answer to.
They do, but also suffer from poor support from local governments.
This small sample is a bit outdated info, but give you an idea of
what's been done as far as engineering goes. I haven't updated this
page for quite a while. http://www.metricmind.com/photo.htm
What you actually see on the roads is governed by politics:
Why you don't see many EVs niche or not? This discussion
is OT, but in short it all comes to money, nothing more.
Those who can produce EVs and legislate them seem are happy
with current situation as far as profits go. Naturally, shareholders
and investors want money for themselves first and green/health
stuff for others second. As long as priorities are such, I don't
see why anyone in the world where dollar rules over common sense
would bother to change.
It would take a crisis or disaster to change - look at the history.
Heck, people don't even bother to buy a snow chains (to get prepared)
until after it freezes and they start getting in the accidents.
By the same talking they will not think about EVs until after they
start running into serious difficulties with fuel supply (or health
problems costing more than it would take to put EVs on the roads).
I want to be wrong here.
Please, don't reply or reply off line if you want.
This topic is OT.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Have anyone successfully run a PFC series charger on a
12Vdc to 110Vac inverter?
I have been trying many things out, but my PFC
chargers would just cycle on and off (in about 1/2
second interval) if I tried to pull more than about
170W. Rich gave me some suggestions, but I just want
to know if others have a "cheaper" solution. I am
using a cheap 600W modified sine wave inverter.
I am planning to use my 2004 Prius as a low emission
generator (if needed) during EVents. I have tested
running a 500W halogen lamp for about 20 mins before
it started its ICE to recharge the high V pack. A
Prius owner reported running a 1000W load for 2 hours
without any problem. And, another reported using his
Prius in this matter for 8 hours during a winter storm
blackout. The 12V supply should be able to provide
120A.
Anyhow, I have try running a 300W load first before
turning on the charger. A drill press motor first. I
tried putting an AC cap in parallel with the charger.
I even tried putting a 12V DC motor in series (as an
inductor) and putting the 12V motor and an AC cap etc.
The only thing that seem to help is a 12V bulb in
series. I could get to about 255W. But, the 12V bulb
was getting very bright.
I probably should invest in a good true sine wave
inverter. But, these are not cheap. Or, I should get
a 9kw generator head and somehow connect it to the
front wheels. I could use the cruise control...
Enough day dreaming. Any idea?
Ed Ang
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you�re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That truly sucks. But most states have a way you CAN get your money out of
them when they have no insurance.
First you take them to small claims court. Usually they don't show, but even
if they do, you still win a judgement- which, in my experience, they then
usually don't pay. Here's how to get your money:
Turn them in to the DMV for not making good on the judgement. Usually you
have to file a complaint and make a little noise. Their file gets red
flagged, and guess what happens when they go to get their license renewed?
That's right! They have to show proof of the judgement being satisfied.
Until they pay you and you sign off, they don't get their license. It may
take a little while, but unless they move to another state, you will get
your money this way. Your state law may vary, but it's worth a shot.
Strike hard and strike early. Scumbags usually count on you just giving up
and going away. Don't do it!
Good Luck!
Marv
> From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 09:29:14 -0800
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Aspire rearend by a SUV
>
> A very nice SUV met the back of my Aspire yesterday. I was stopped at a red
> light. It looks like a total. The batteries in the spare tire well in a
> custom stainless box don't seem compressed much. Voltage didn't drop. I
> drove the car off to the side of the road and the right back tire popped.
> It was towed to a body shop. The guy doesn't have insurance but he has
> friends at the body shop. I am a little stiff today. He says his dog
> jumped on his lap he looked down and when he looked up I was there.
> MAN..... The right side doors won't open easily and the roof has some
> rolling dents from compression. My seat went back at a 45� angle. I don't
> know if anyone else has had their 3500 pound mini car hit like this but I am
> having bad feelings even though the repair person at the shop says they can
> fix it. What should I do. The police came and a report was made. Lawrence
> Rhodes......
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
* LP8.2: HTML/Attachments detected, removed from message *
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all,
I am in the process of converting a CRAFTSMAN II tractor, with12HP
OHV and 38" mowing deck to lectric power and would like your opinion
on dc motor HP and other info you want to throw at me.
My plan is to transfer the 4 batt (48V) and 275A 48V controller from
my e-Skidoo to the e-tractor for the summer and back to e-skidoo for
the winter.
My initial idea would be to use a 1HP PM motor and a switch for the
deck (2 blades) and a 1HP PM or series wound with the controller for
the traction.
One 1/2 HP PM motor for each blade would also be an option...
Anyone care to comment? Does the HP seems to be OK for this application?
Anyone been there done that concerning separate motor for the deck?
Thanks, JCT
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I just forward your URL to a friend who wants to build a gocart for his
grandson. I told him to eat his heart out!!! ;-)
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 22:09 PM
Subject: BLDC go cart pics
> http://www.qsl.net/w8rnh/gocart/gocart.html
>
> I took a few pics of the kids go carts.
> Definately not a Wayland instillation, but these
> are merely testbeds for my prototype control.
> David Roden stopped by tonight and dropped off an
> Elec Trak plow blade. I think he liked the
> performance of this setup but agreed that it's not
> a setup that kids should be using (excluding myself).
> Hopefully in the next month I'll get the aluminum
> housing for the controls and I'll crank up the current
> limit 2x. This should be interesting. I'm not the
> risk taker I was 15 years ago, and the current setup
> is kind of scary. It should be interesting with twice
> the current limit. I'm also building a control for a
> 72Volt pack, this should really be fun.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
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--- Begin Message ---
Hello Edward,
My accessory drive system that is on my EV is something different than I
seen on any EV so far.
Instead of using a DC to DC invertor to drive all the accessories I have, I
used a rotating AC to DC and AC to AC invertor that is connected to the
pilot shaft on my main motor.
This is a Delco Invertor Alternator which has a output of 145 amps at 12VDC
and 120 VAC at 7200 watts.
Its uses a Dynamote control that is design for this unit. Dynamote is
located in Seattle.
Normally these units are design for boats, fire trucks, etc.
I can run the heating system in my EV, which consist of one 1000 watt water
heater and two 840 watt under dash heaters.
These are standard Cab heaters you can purchase at any auto parts store.
They are 120 VAC and I can used commercial power to preheat the car using a
transfer switch.
Starting this EV, is like starting a ICE.
1. Transmission must be in neutral.
2. Ignition switch on providing power to controller.
3. Pressing accelerator peddle brings motor RPM up to 600 RPM.
4. The rotating invertor powers up and accessory drive provides vaccuum,
power brakes, power steering, air condition, heating system and 120 vac
outlet power.
5. Shift transmission into gear and go.
If the roads are very icy or wet, this rotating invertor system provides a
compression like load of a ICE. If I have all the heating load on, it will
actual slow the car down without braking.
When you are slowing down or going down a hill, you are not using any main
battery power to run this invertor and accessories at the time, only the
inertial produce.
When I let up on the accelerator, it than idle down to 600 Rpm which I can
leave on if there are many short slow downs or brief stops, this prevents
high motor starting ampere.
If commercial power is out, I can plug my house to my EV by using a transfer
switch.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Ang" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 4:55 PM
Subject: PFC Series Chargers on Inverter
> Have anyone successfully run a PFC series charger on a
> 12Vdc to 110Vac inverter?
>
> I have been trying many things out, but my PFC
> chargers would just cycle on and off (in about 1/2
> second interval) if I tried to pull more than about
> 170W. Rich gave me some suggestions, but I just want
> to know if others have a "cheaper" solution. I am
> using a cheap 600W modified sine wave inverter.
>
> I am planning to use my 2004 Prius as a low emission
> generator (if needed) during EVents. I have tested
> running a 500W halogen lamp for about 20 mins before
> it started its ICE to recharge the high V pack. A
> Prius owner reported running a 1000W load for 2 hours
> without any problem. And, another reported using his
> Prius in this matter for 8 hours during a winter storm
> blackout. The 12V supply should be able to provide
> 120A.
>
> Anyhow, I have try running a 300W load first before
> turning on the charger. A drill press motor first. I
> tried putting an AC cap in parallel with the charger.
> I even tried putting a 12V DC motor in series (as an
> inductor) and putting the 12V motor and an AC cap etc.
> The only thing that seem to help is a 12V bulb in
> series. I could get to about 255W. But, the 12V bulb
> was getting very bright.
>
> I probably should invest in a good true sine wave
> inverter. But, these are not cheap. Or, I should get
> a 9kw generator head and somehow connect it to the
> front wheels. I could use the cruise control...
>
> Enough day dreaming. Any idea?
>
> Ed Ang
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search - Find what youre looking for faster
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 2004-03-02 at 16:53, JCT wrote:
> Hi all,
> I am in the process of converting a CRAFTSMAN II tractor, with12HP
> OHV and 38" mowing deck to lectric power and would like your opinion
> on dc motor HP and other info you want to throw at me.
> My plan is to transfer the 4 batt (48V) and 275A 48V controller from
> my e-Skidoo to the e-tractor for the summer and back to e-skidoo for
> the winter.
> My initial idea would be to use a 1HP PM motor and a switch for the
> deck (2 blades) and a 1HP PM or series wound with the controller for
> the traction.
> One 1/2 HP PM motor for each blade would also be an option...
> Anyone care to comment? Does the HP seems to be OK for this application?
> Anyone been there done that concerning separate motor for the deck?
> Thanks, JCT
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/226.html uses a similarly sized motor.
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/276.html uses separate motors for drive
and deck (although it has more than 1HP for drive).
These are both factory electrics.
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/292.html looks very much like what you
are planning. It has a very nice write-up, along with some motor sizing
advice.
I'm planning (no cash at the moment) to convert my Wheel Horse garden
tractor. My plan is to use one E-Tek to power the drive and the 42", 3
blade deck (just replace the ICE) - this way all the existing
attachments will work as before..... but I'll be sure to read others'
feedback on your project.
Lonnie
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ouch!!
Sorry to hear about that Lawrence.
When my Escort EV was broadsided a few years back the insurance company
declared it a total loss at $1500. Even though the passenger side door and
quarter panel was damaged they said the repair cost was more then the value
of the car.
So what I did was prove to the insurance company the car was worth several
times more then that because of the value of the EV components.
They asked me to verify that claim. So I wandered over to Mike Chancey's EV
Trading Post and found several Escorts for sale about the same age. All were
way over $1500.
Apparently, that was enough proof for them to say the car wasn't a total
loss after all so they cut me a check for the damages.
A word of advice about body shops. Be careful and explain the car
thoroughly. My car was running fine when I drove it there. But it ended up
being towed back home. The guys there said they drove it into the spray
booth with no problem, but after the car was painted and baked in the oven
it wouldn't work. Not sure if the heat had anything to do with it or if
there was overspray that got in the contactors or what.
I had them actually strip and repaint the car and they weren't too careful
with masking the EV components so there was overspray on stuff. Plus they
tend to want to rev up the motor like a gas car which just gives me the
heavie jeavies hearing the motor wind up with no load. So you have to be
careful with these guys.
See ya,
Chip
On 3/2/04 4:51 PM, "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 09:29:14 -0800
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Aspire rearend by a SUV
>
> A very nice SUV met the back of my Aspire yesterday. I was stopped at a red
> light. It looks like a total. The batteries in the spare tire well in a
> custom stainless box don't seem compressed much. Voltage didn't drop. I
> drove the car off to the side of the road and the right back tire popped.
> It was towed to a body shop. The guy doesn't have insurance but he has
> friends at the body shop. I am a little stiff today. He says his dog
> jumped on his lap he looked down and when he looked up I was there.
> MAN..... The right side doors won't open easily and the roof has some
> rolling dents from compression. My seat went back at a 45� angle. I don't
> know if anyone else has had their 3500 pound mini car hit like this but I am
> having bad feelings even though the repair person at the shop says they can
> fix it. What should I do. The police came and a report was made. Lawrence
> Rhodes......
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm glad to hear that you were not seriously hurt.
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 12:29 PM
Subject: Aspire rearend by a SUV
> A very nice SUV met the back of my Aspire yesterday. I was stopped at a
red
> light. It looks like a total. The batteries in the spare tire well in a
> custom stainless box don't seem compressed much. Voltage didn't drop. I
> drove the car off to the side of the road and the right back tire popped.
> It was towed to a body shop. The guy doesn't have insurance but he has
> friends at the body shop. I am a little stiff today. He says his dog
> jumped on his lap he looked down and when he looked up I was there.
> MAN..... The right side doors won't open easily and the roof has some
> rolling dents from compression. My seat went back at a 45� angle. I
don't
> know if anyone else has had their 3500 pound mini car hit like this but I
am
> having bad feelings even though the repair person at the shop says they
can
> fix it. What should I do. The police came and a report was made.
Lawrence
> Rhodes......
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 2004-03-02 at 11:22, Otmar wrote:
> Hey All,
>
> What's wrong with no BEMF, it seems simple to me.
>
> Maybe all he's done is make his motor into a SR or VR motor.
> (Switched Reluctance or Variable Reluctance)
An SR/VR motor might not have any BEMF when no electrical power is
applied, but it certainly has BEMF when operating.
-snip-
> Advantages are high efficiency, low mass and very high rpm (due to no BEMF)
> Disadvantages are high mechanical noise, expensive electronics and
> very difficult to design well.
I've heard people claim that VR motors have high efficiency, but it
seems to me that the one commonly available EV version (the Lectra) did
have really impressive efficiency. Not bad, just average.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All, I received a phone call from my producer today and the date
for "Sucking Amps" has been moved up to April 22nd. Yea, they let us
know after we sent out 5000 post cards. The good side is that it will
give our webmasters, Chip and Jordan more time to finish the site.
Roderick
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
We use SR motors at Ametek for blower applications.
We run these up to 25,000 RPM with no problem.
The blowers have high efficiency due to the RPM and
there isn't any start torque problems in this
application. These motors are ideal for this
application but they would suck for traction/EV use
due to the low RPM cogging problem.
I'll stick with BLDC or brush motors for traction
applications.
Rod.
--- Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On Tue, 2004-03-02 at 11:22, Otmar wrote:
> > Hey All,
> >
> > What's wrong with no BEMF, it seems simple to me.
> >
> > Maybe all he's done is make his motor into a SR or
> VR motor.
> > (Switched Reluctance or Variable Reluctance)
>
> An SR/VR motor might not have any BEMF when no
> electrical power is
> applied, but it certainly has BEMF when operating.
>
> -snip-
>
> > Advantages are high efficiency, low mass and very
> high rpm (due to no BEMF)
> > Disadvantages are high mechanical noise, expensive
> electronics and
> > very difficult to design well.
>
> I've heard people claim that VR motors have high
> efficiency, but it
> seems to me that the one commonly available EV
> version (the Lectra) did
> have really impressive efficiency. Not bad, just
> average.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks for the info Rod.
I'll have to say that I've got more
strange looks at my 'Suck Amps' t-shirt than
my Dodge TEVan with the 'Etric' license plate.
I guess it's the shock value, kind of like a silver
sunburst on the nipple during super bowl half time.
The Gone Postal shirt has raised some eyebrows as
well.
The clerk at Harbor Freight said 'we don't need any
gone postal customers here' All in good fun of
course, but it definately caught their attention.
Rod
--- Roderick Wilde <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi All, I received a phone call from my producer
> today and the date
> for "Sucking Amps" has been moved up to April 22nd.
> Yea, they let us
> know after we sent out 5000 post cards. The good
> side is that it will
> give our webmasters, Chip and Jordan more time to
> finish the site.
>
> Roderick
> "Suck Amps EV Racing"
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 8:57 PM -0800 on 3/1/04, Doug Weathers wrote:
If you're talking about ROBOLAB, you can still get it from Pitsco
Lego Dacta. (Long link warning)
http://www.pldstore.com/pld/catalog.cfm?dest=itempg&itemid=1264&secid=9&linkon=subsection&linkid=45
That's probably it. It's been about 5 years since I was told what I
know. I then worked for a phone-based, outsource tech support company
called Stream International. One of the contracts at the site at
which I worked was the Lego Mindstorms line (not the contractor I
supported). Glad to see Lego finally supports it (or at least
acknowledges it's existence).
IIRC it's based on National Instruments' LabVIEW. It's available
for Windows and Mac.
Again, that's probably correct.
--
Auf wiedersehen!
______________________________________________________
"..Um..Something strange happened to me this morning."
"Was it a dream where you see yourself standing in sort
of Sun God robes on a pyramid with a thousand naked
women screaming and throwing little pickles at you?"
"..No."
"Why am I the only person that has that dream?"
-Real Genius
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Richard Bebbington wrote:
>
> Rich Rudman wrote:
>
> > I found the original schemtic yesterday. Let me know if you need the
> > data.
> >
> > Rj 1 nc
> > 2 RED LED
> > 3 Yellow LED
> > 4 Green led
> > 5 gnd to a 1n4005, the anode goes to the common cathodes of all the
> > leds
> > 6 nc
> >
> > Leds are jumped with a 1K, and a .1uf cap for a filter.
>
> Does that schematic detail the tach sensor? If it does,
> could you send me the details?
>
> I still haven't had any luck trying to figure out the
> connections in my Raptor600, and would like to connect
> a proximity sensor to it ( produces a nice 2x rpm pulse
> train, active-low 12v ) to use the rpm limit.
> Kind of useful, if my belt drive breaks...
> ( I sure hope not! )
>
> Thanks
>
> Richard Bebbington
> electric Mini pickup
I've got the layout and no controlling Schematic.
I have 3 of the sensors.
Allied electric PN# 968-5301 Fairchild OPB703.
I am back engineering the Schematic. He hooks it through a LM431, and
does some pull up and Pull downs. And also has a LOT of filter Caps in
it.
The dropping R and some other 47K pull ups are the items that induced
the noise problems. Basicly if you use larger pull up and stiffer pull
downs it becomes more noise immune.
I am going to re design it, and use it on the Dyno, and as a Item drive
a Fet that will pull down a 12 volt line so I can use a "Stock
Tachometer". Normal tachs need a 2 pulse per rev signal, for 4 cycler
work and 4 pulses for V-8 work. The DCP's used 2 pulses per Rev, and
drove a current limted pull down circuit. I Do have the AS built in '99
Raptor schematics. Warning a 4 pulse pre Rev will give you rev limits on
the DCP of 1/2 what you want. Use 2 pulses per Rev.
The tach sensor that I am using right now is a 4 pulse per rev, unit
off a Sparrow spec 8incher, that Rod had installed on a 9 incher. Once
that motor leaves for Gone Poastal, then I loose my tach readings.
--
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
hi all
i breifly visited this list once before but found it over whelming as i
was very new to the topic of evs. no im not new to the topic but almost
everything else im still new. i talked to John Bryant in mt about his and
saw it.
here is my plan
1978 brat
i will be using a toyota or chevy 5speed man trany and making the brat RWD
only. (this i can do not a problem)
Advanced DC 9in motor (dual shaft)
Battires(??) thinking of optimas yellow top) at least 120 volts worth
controler (not a clue im putting 1500.00-2000.00 in my budget for that i
would like to get the best i can)
chargers (yet to be deturmined.)
anyway those are some of the main components. let me know what you think
please feel free to critizie as long as your trying to help.
ps ive also read Convert IT lots of times.
thanks
brian
i hope to become a contributing member of the list not just a scavanger(like
us unlearned ones always are at first)
_________________________________________________________________
One-click access to Hotmail from any Web page � download MSN Toolbar now!
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The diode sounds vaguely familiar... but are you saying there are
resistors and caps in the remote box as well? That doesn't ring any
bells. And yeah, my memory could be bad.
Rich Rudman wrote:
Rj 1 nc
2 RED LED
3 Yellow LED
4 Green led
5 gnd to a 1n4005, the anode goes to the common cathodes of all the
leds
6 nc
Leds are jumped with a 1K, and a .1uf cap for a filter.
_________
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak
1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
http://www.eeevee.com
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As many of you know, I maintain a list of public charging stations as a
service to the Arizona EV community. Given that I live in the Phoenix area
(as do most of the people who help to keep my list up to date), I'm not
always the first to find out when Tucson charging stations disappear... nor
do I find out details on the actual stations. That having been said, are
there any Tucson area residents who can help me verify these public charging
stations? You'll notice on my list that I post the address, specific
location on the property, number of parking spots, and the types of charging
available from each parking spot. If anyone could save me a few trips to
Tucson and send me some current info on these stations, I would be very
grateful!
http://www.1opossum.com/evs/chargers/
Bookman's Used Books
1930 E. Grant Rd., Tucson 85719-3407
Bookman's Used Books
3733 W. Ina Rd., Tucson 85741-2001
Costco
6255 E. Grant Rd., Tucson 85712-5804
Saturn of Tucson
6020 E. Speedway Rd., Tucson 85712-5125
TEP - Main Office
220 W. 6th St., Tucson 85701-1014
Tucson Mall
4500 N. Stone Ave., Tucson 85705-1699
Tucson Medical Center
3301 E. Grant Rd., Tucson 85716-2811
University of Arizona
East of McKale Center, Tucson 85719
Westin La Poloma Resort
3800 E. Sunrise Dr., Tucson 85718-3302
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I have 2 Optima Yellow Tops in my Fiero's tunnel.
I wouldn't want to put anything besides sealed
batteries there.
Ken
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Brat, as in Subaru? Hopefully you aren't in snow country, so away from
the rust problems.
Would the Chevy trany be the same as in S-10 pick-up trucks? If so,
Canadian EV sells the housing and adapter needed to connect the 9" motor
(Advanced DC/Netgain) to the trany.
A Zilla 1K with 156 volts of Optimas or Orbitals would fit your budget
and make a fun car. Actually an 8" motor might be enough. You didn't say
what range you need... 600 pounds of batteries would do 'round town
errands but not be the distance winner.
brian G wrote:
here is my plan
1978 brat
i will be using a toyota or chevy 5speed man trany and making the brat
RWD only. (this i can do not a problem)
Advanced DC 9in motor (dual shaft)
Battires(??) thinking of optimas yellow top) at least 120 volts worth
controler (not a clue im putting 1500.00-2000.00 in my budget for that i
would like to get the best i can)
chargers (yet to be deturmined.)
_________
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak
1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
http://www.eeevee.com
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Hi Mason,
The following charging station do not exists any more:
Tucson Mall
4500 N. Stone Ave., Tucson 85705-1699
University of Arizona
East of McKale Center, Tucson 85719
You can also cross reference this with the EV Charger News website
which is kept up to date:
http://www.evchargernews.com/regions/ch-az-all.htm
Also the Saturn of Tucson location does not have the readily available
charger at the front of the store, but they had one in their back
parking lot near the service center last time I checked (8 months ago).
Alex Karahalios
On Mar 2, 2004, at 9:41 PM, Mason Convey wrote:
If anyone could save me a few trips to
Tucson and send me some current info on these stations, I would be very
grateful!
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> We use SR motors at Ametek for blower applications.
> We run these up to 25,000 RPM with no problem.
> The blowers have high efficiency due to the RPM and
> there isn't any start torque problems in this
> application. These motors are ideal for this
> application but they would suck for traction/EV use
> due to the low RPM cogging problem.
> I'll stick with BLDC or brush motors for traction
> applications.
Maybe what we need is a 'starter moter' - a series DC motor with a clutch to
get the car rolling and up past the 'chunka-chunka' point - then fire up the
switched-reluctance to go all the way to 20k RPMs. Sounds clutzy but less
clutzy than a multispeed transmission..
S.
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Jim Coate wrote:
>
> The diode sounds vaguely familiar... but are you saying there are
> resistors and caps in the remote box as well? That doesn't ring any
> bells. And yeah, my memory could be bad.
>
> Rich Rudman wrote:
> > Rj 1 nc
> > 2 RED LED
> > 3 Yellow LED
> > 4 Green led
> > 5 gnd to a 1n4005, the anode goes to the common cathodes of all the
> > leds
> > 6 nc
> >
> > Leds are jumped with a 1K, and a .1uf cap for a filter.
> >
> >
>
> _________
> Jim Coate
> 1970's Elec-Trak
> 1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
> 1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
> http://www.eeevee.com
Old Sch from 99. There are 1Ks across the LED for brightness control.
Remove them as needed.
The cap keep the led from being lit when the RF gets out of line.
--
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
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In what way being improved?
Power density improvement? The Exide Orbital is an improvement on the Optima
because they can be discharged faster to make EV drag racers go faster.
Bolders came and went. Inspiras came and went. I expect Exide to stick
around for a while. The Pikes Peak record with Lithium was outstanding but
it is a single data point that does not seem to be making it onto the
street.
Longevity improvements? Yes, packs are lasting longer. Probably because of
improved charging. The newer technologies are just getting to the point
where they are exceeding the longevity of the old standards. As the newer
cars age, this is becoming more apparent. Problems with a lot of Saft NiCads
has become apparent whereas the older ones are still working whereas the
newer ones die an early death. They might have fixed the problem but you
will get a different answer depending on how you ask the question.
Range improvements? Some of this is due to better rolling stock and some due
to higher energy density. Evercel seem to be playing peek-a-boo right now.
If the MB-80s work better than the MB-100s than we have a better product for
range at the expense of power. NiMh continues to improve but the cost is
still prohibitive for EV size cells.
Cost improvements? Some batteries are getting cheaper and some are getting
more expensive. What market are you targeting?
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Dekker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV SJS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 4:21 PM
Subject: No board better to ask then this one
>
> The question is. By what percentage do you estimate batteries have
improved since the last model EV1 was produced?
>
> I know there are many ways to look at this question. But it's just a wield
assed guess anyway so please give it a shot.
>
> 2%, 20% 200% ???
> Any and all supportive information would also be much appreciated.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster.
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I hope you are wrong. I understand that it should pay everything. I know
when I got t-boned in my Sable wagon my insurance paid me off including the
deductable. Lawrence Rhodes.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shawn Rutledge" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: Aspire rearend by a SUV
> Back in 1991 or so I had another accident, again the other party was
> at-fault, and they took off on foot because they knew they were in
> trouble (couple of drunk Mexicans driving a stolen pickup). The cops
> never caught them and they didn't have insurance anyway. I found out
> then that "uninsured motorist" coverage doesn't protect you at all, and
> certainly not your car... its only purpose is to pay excess medical
> claims that nobody else pays, for the other guy, not for you. In other
> words if the guy that hits you gets injured and has no insurance to
> cover it, your uninsured coverage will. (Why that's my liability at
> all eludes me.) At least that's what they told me at the time. That's
> why it's so cheap, because it's nearly useless.
>
> --- Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Bummer! Do you have 'uninsured motorist' coverage? Do you believe
> > the
> > guy when he says he doesn't have insurance? Maybe he's just trying
> > to
> > keep the accident off his policy.
>
> That's a good question too.
>
>
> =====
> . _______ Shawn T. Rutledge / KB7PWD [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> (_ | |_) http://ecloud.org/ [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> __) | | \______________________________________________
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
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The bummer is that the car only has 6k on it and is a 97. Relatively new
for a conversion. It also sat for 3 years not used. If I get a fresh body
I have to do all the welding again. It would for sure have many more miles.
I'd just as soon sell the adapter and tranny to someone else that had an
Aspire. I've been looking at a few used conversions in the Bay area. If I
get it totaled I would be better off. Maybe as an alternative I could
reduce the weight in batteries to 800 pounds, Put in an OTMAR controller and
reduce the range to 50 miles instead of 80 miles. Use Some Exides and in
crease the performance........Lawrence Rhodes......
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerry dycus" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 12:52 PM
Subject: Re: Aspire rearend by a SUV
> Hi Lawrence and All,
> --- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > A very nice SUV met the back of my Aspire yesterday.
> > I was stopped at a red
> > light. It looks like a total. The batteries in
> > the spare tire well in a
> > custom stainless box don't seem compressed much.
> > Voltage didn't drop. I
> > drove the car off to the side of the road and the
> > right back tire popped.
> > It was towed to a body shop. The guy doesn't have
> > insurance but he has
> > friends at the body shop. I am a little stiff
> > today. He says his dog
> > jumped on his lap he looked down and when he looked
> > up I was there.
> > MAN..... The right side doors won't open easily and
> > the roof has some
> > rolling dents from compression. My seat went back
> > at a 45� angle. I don't
> > know if anyone else has had their 3500 pound mini
> > car hit like this but I am
> > having bad feelings even though the repair person at
> > the shop says they can
> > fix it. What should I do. The police came and a
> > report was made. Lawrence
> > Rhodes......
> >
> Ouch!!!
> If you liked the Aspire then they should be able
> to find a good one cheap, prep it for you to take the
> e parts and cash to pay for the rest of the work,
> costs would be your best bet.
> I wouldn't try to fix it as the unibody has
> probably been bent making it likely that down the road
> it would break under the load of batts.
> But if he had a nice SUV, he's probably paying
> for it and has an insurance policy.
> Get any offer in writing and have the shop sign
> it that he pays and they can't keep the car if he
> doesn't.
> I'd call the prosecutor so when he pleads, as
> part of his sentence fixing your car is part of it.
> Good luck,
> jerry dycus
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
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I sent a copy of the EVlist about the EV mode button on the Prius to an
instructor of mine that owns a prius and works for the california air
resources board, his reply has some interesting info.
Jeff,
Many thanks--I was intrigued by the EV mode button on Japanese Prius cars. The South
Coast Air Quality Management District is apparently spending some of their $ on
developing pluggable hybrids for the LA basin (EV mode for commutes and hybrid mode
for longer trips).
I think your prediction that hybrids will eventually help EVs is coming true. The
switchable hybrid is a step in the evolution...
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