EV Digest 3388
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Tour de Sol -- 2 weeks left to register!
by M Bianchi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Discovery delays launch of "Sucking Amps"
by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Aspire rearend by a SUV
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Look at my plan for my ev and give me input
by "brian G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: SUV'd aspire
by "jeanedd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Gas prices make electric sound pretty good!Trakkin' the Thread
by "bobrice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Look at my plan for my ev and give me input
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Raptor & diodes
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: E-tractor mower -which motor(s)?
by Jim Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) DOT rules for low speed vehicles.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Aspire rearend by a SUV
by Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Solectria Force with low miles available.
by "Will Beckett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: The EMW goes for a test ride
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Look at my plan for my ev and give me input
by "brian G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) first charge on NiMH cells
by Dermot Dobson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Your website
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
17) Re: DCP T-Rex remote display
by Richard Bebbington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: DCP T-Rex remote display
by Richard Bebbington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Solectria Force with low miles available.
by Marc Geller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) EV transport, gas taxes Re: Gas prices Trakkin' the Thread
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Look at my plan for my ev and give me input
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
22) Re: Look at my plan for my ev and give me input
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: first charge on NiMH cells
by Seth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
from the Tour de Sol people ...
Dear Tour de Sol potential entrants:
Only 2 weeks left to register for the 2004 Tour de Sol !
Don't miss out on the 16th annual Tour de Sol!
It' big ... it's important ... and we hope you will be part of it all!
We have just updated our web site, and we have more useful information posted
than ever before. At the end of this letter, you will also find a draft
itinerary of the event, from a competitive perspective.
On our web site, we have posted a large number of resources, such as a list of
past entrants (if you are new to the Tour these people can offer you a wealth
of information), tips on how to built a car that has a good center of gravity,
engage the press, get sponsors on board, and much more!
Please fill in the registration form and find resources at
http://www.nesea.org/transportation/tour/involved/enter.html
and register today! We will send you an email when the 2004 Tour de Sol Rules
are posted. We do not anticipate any major changes in vehicle specifications.
There will be some scoring and award changes, especially for the Production
Division. Note: you must send us your registration fee to secure your place.
Registration Fee: $550
Registration deadline: March 15, 2004
If you would like a printed copy of the rules, please send us $20.
We hope to hear from you soon!
Sincerely,
Nancy Hazard, Director, Tour de Sol, Ext 18
Anissa Sanborn, Transportation Event Coordinator, Ext 30
David Knowles, Logistics Coordinator, Ext 29
Northeast Sustainable Energy Association
413-774-6051
PS. For profiles of past Tour de Sol entrants compiled by Mike Bianchi go to
http://www.foveal.com/Tour_de_Sol_Reports.html
DRAFT ITINERARY: MAY 21-25, 2004
The 2004 Tour de Sol will kick off in the City of Burlington, NJ.
We will then rally to the New Jersey State Capitol in Trenton, NJ.
The grand finale will be held in New York City's lower Manhattan.
Friday, May 21 - Registration, Welcome meeting, and technical testing
for student and independent (S&I) teams
Saturday, May 22 - Technical testing, Reliability & Festival Technical
testing for S&I teams completed by 4pm
Student and independent teams display when not testing.
50 mile Reliability/efficiency event for S&I & OEM teams at 4:30 pm
OEMs display at "Burlington Day" festival 11am-4pm
Sunday, May 23 - Range & Efficiency day
Hybrid Electric-Human Vehicle (HEHV) S&I & OEM teams hold technical
check and range event.
All S&I & OEM teams participate in a range event.
Data collected during this event, and Friday's reliability event
will be used to calculate vehicle efficiency.
Vehicle efficiency and fuel type data will be used to calculate
greenhouse gas emissions.
Criteria emissions may be collected on this day.
Monday, May 24 - Reliability & Handling events & Festival
AM- Reliability drive for S&I teams to Trenton NJ street festival next
to the Capitol
OEM vehicles go directly to Trenton for festival set-up.
PM - Autocross event for S&I and OEM teams.
PM - drive or trailer to New York City staging area
Tuesday, May 25 - Awards Ceremony & Festival
Parade to street festival in lower Manhattan
AM - Grand finale media event - top awards announced
PM - Full awards ceremony
--
Mike Bianchi
Foveal Systems
190 Loantaka Way
Madison NJ 07940-1910
+1 973 822-2085 Voice; call to arrange Fax
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Create videos of auditorium and classroom presentations without a crew?
Yes!
http://www.AutoAuditorium.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Roderick,
Stan Hanel just mentioned to me that April 22 happens to be Earth Day.
Whether it's just coincidence or was planned that way it's added publicity
to have an EV hot rod show on Earth Day. Pretty cool!!
But it's not so cool about the cards though.
See ya,
Chip
On 3/3/04 8:36 AM, "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> From: Roderick Wilde <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 19:11:02 -0800
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Discovery delays launch of "Sucking Amps"
>
> Hi All, I received a phone call from my producer today and the date
> for "Sucking Amps" has been moved up to April 22nd. Yea, they let us
> know after we sent out 5000 post cards. The good side is that it will
> give our webmasters, Chip and Jordan more time to finish the site.
>
> Roderick
> "Suck Amps EV Racing"
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
California has a statute of limitations on how long
you can press someone for damages in an accident.
I got in an accident, and the guy said he'd have it
fixed up by some friends at a body shop. They were
operating under the table,and had no business cards or
receipts, so I filed a police report on it within the
time frame.
My heart goes out to you. This is another case in
point for having all of our marvelous EVs as "stated
value policies".
Peace,
--- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The bummer is that the car only has 6k on it and is
> a 97. Relatively new
> for a conversion. It also sat for 3 years not used.
> If I get a fresh body
> I have to do all the welding again. It would for
> sure have many more miles.
> I'd just as soon sell the adapter and tranny to
> someone else that had an
> Aspire. I've been looking at a few used conversions
> in the Bay area. If I
> get it totaled I would be better off. Maybe as an
> alternative I could
> reduce the weight in batteries to 800 pounds, Put in
> an OTMAR controller and
> reduce the range to 50 miles instead of 80 miles.
> Use Some Exides and in
> crease the performance........Lawrence Rhodes......
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jerry dycus" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 12:52 PM
> Subject: Re: Aspire rearend by a SUV
>
>
> > Hi Lawrence and All,
> > --- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > A very nice SUV met the back of my Aspire
> yesterday.
> > > I was stopped at a red
> > > light. It looks like a total. The batteries
> in
> > > the spare tire well in a
> > > custom stainless box don't seem compressed much.
> > > Voltage didn't drop. I
> > > drove the car off to the side of the road and
> the
> > > right back tire popped.
> > > It was towed to a body shop. The guy doesn't
> have
> > > insurance but he has
> > > friends at the body shop. I am a little stiff
> > > today. He says his dog
> > > jumped on his lap he looked down and when he
> looked
> > > up I was there.
> > > MAN..... The right side doors won't open easily
> and
> > > the roof has some
> > > rolling dents from compression. My seat went
> back
> > > at a 45� angle. I don't
> > > know if anyone else has had their 3500 pound
> mini
> > > car hit like this but I am
> > > having bad feelings even though the repair
> person at
> > > the shop says they can
> > > fix it. What should I do. The police came and
> a
> > > report was made. Lawrence
> > > Rhodes......
> > >
> > Ouch!!!
> > If you liked the Aspire then they should be
> able
> > to find a good one cheap, prep it for you to take
> the
> > e parts and cash to pay for the rest of the work,
> > costs would be your best bet.
> > I wouldn't try to fix it as the unibody has
> > probably been bent making it likely that down the
> road
> > it would break under the load of batts.
> > But if he had a nice SUV, he's probably
> paying
> > for it and has an insurance policy.
> > Get any offer in writing and have the shop
> sign
> > it that he pays and they can't keep the car if he
> > doesn't.
> > I'd call the prosecutor so when he pleads,
> as
> > part of his sentence fixing your car is part of
> it.
> > Good luck,
> > jerry dycus
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for
> faster
> > http://search.yahoo.com
> >
>
=====
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
(in progress)! ____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? Are you
saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you�re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
HI,
yes im in snow country but we dont salt the roads up here yet so ive found
a few old subarus with NO rust. in fact i have a 73 split tailgatew wagon
with 377k on it and its rust free. anyway geting the car is not a problem
yes im thinking of using the chevy s10 trany. i like the idea of the optimas
or orbital batterys since there sealed.
as for the motor id rather go bigger then smaller since i dont want to over
work it. and the price differnce isnt big enough to wornt the head ace.
alothough lots of people have had luck with the 8in.
as for range. id like to get 50 or so miles at 30 mph. on falt ground.
thanks
brian
From: Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Look at my plan for my ev and give me input
Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2004 23:54:33 -0500
Brat, as in Subaru? Hopefully you aren't in snow country, so away from the
rust problems.
Would the Chevy trany be the same as in S-10 pick-up trucks? If so,
Canadian EV sells the housing and adapter needed to connect the 9" motor
(Advanced DC/Netgain) to the trany.
A Zilla 1K with 156 volts of Optimas or Orbitals would fit your budget and
make a fun car. Actually an 8" motor might be enough. You didn't say what
range you need... 600 pounds of batteries would do 'round town errands but
not be the distance winner.
brian G wrote:
here is my plan
1978 brat
i will be using a toyota or chevy 5speed man trany and making the brat RWD
only. (this i can do not a problem)
Advanced DC 9in motor (dual shaft)
Battires(??) thinking of optimas yellow top) at least 120 volts worth
controler (not a clue im putting 1500.00-2000.00 in my budget for that i
would like to get the best i can)
chargers (yet to be deturmined.)
_________
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak
1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
http://www.eeevee.com
_________________________________________________________________
Learn how to help protect your privacy and prevent fraud online at Tech
Hacks & Scams. http://special.msn.com/msnbc/techsafety.armx
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Also consider the potential for personal injury. Since your seat was forced
back 45 degrees, you must have experienced sufficient impact energy acting
on your body to cause this. Thus please check for any as yet undiscovered
stresses or partial dislocations, possibly masked for the moment by nature.
These can show up later and be bad news, long - term. Can you find any way
to be expertly checked out by a practitioner experienced in this kind of
impact on the human body?
I wish you all the best, (and hope this idea is in fact redundant)
Ed. Gordon, in Plymouth, Devon, England
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: James Jarrett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 10:58 AM
Subject: RE: Gas prices make electric sound pretty good!
Hi James an' All;
A few comments on this theme, I like it, though!
> My wife has always been fairly understanding about my "weird facination
with
> electric stuff" but since the gas prices have started to go up, and up and
> up, she has started to see the electric as a darn good investment. She
has
> even started driving it more.
>
> Well the other night myself and a few friends started one of those "what's
> wrong with this country is __________" conversations. We came up with an
> idea that we agreed would be WILDLY unpopular, but would completely (or
> nearly so) do away with our need for / dependance on foreign, and domestic
> oil.
>
> It would be a multi year plan:
>
> Starting in year one a $.25 per gallon tax is put on all forms of
petrolium
> products EXCEPT home heating oil (and maybe propane). This tax would be
> split "evenly" between research/production of alternative energy sources
and
> building up a proper mass transit and freight infrastructure.
> A few years ago Amtrak tried for one-half-a-cent of the national gas tax.
This would give them more subsity then they are getting now! Got shot down
REAL quick by the hiwaymen in DC.I can understand that keeping Amtrak as it
is, doesn't appeal to many people surviving a train trip HOURS late as the
train they were on gets progressively later, diner runs out of food and,
Horrors! Booze, too.Lights go out, or engine breaks down, as it is old
enough to vote, in the upcoming prez elections<g>! Lets go for Serious RR
improvements like in France or Japan, NEW right of way, THATS the secret!
You don't see any freight trains on the TGV! They stay on the old RR which
they are used to, or on the Bullet train trax in Japan, they were planning
to at first, but the extra wear and tear they felt wasn't worth it.
So, lets earmark, say 10 sence a gal for Hi speed rail, which could run
right by many airports, on the way into the centre of town? From the
national gas tax. Once ya get this wonderful RR system built you have to
subsidize it big time to keep the fares low. What's the point if it has
Acela like fares? Acela isn't for Ma and Pa Sixpack, but for the Biz
traveller who woulda flown from say Washington to NYC. Twice the fare of the
regular Amtrak coach fares, keeps off the riff raff, I guess.Not to mention
the ..Weee! New Train smell! Acela would run standing room only if it was
cheap! They, we, couldn't run enough of them! IF it was really competitive
with loading the kids in the SUV and paying parking fees if they get there.
> In year two, the tax goes up to $.50 per gallon.
> Yeah! We could GIVE the train tickets away!
> It contiues to go up $.25 per year every year until the average cost per
> gallon of gasoline is the same as the average cost per gallon in the
> European Union.
> and we wouldn't hafta rebuild the roads every two years, because they
wouldn't be beaten to death, so fast. Freight would go on freight trains
,out of sight and out of the way, except at grade crossings, ' cept if the
RR was electric you wouldn't hafta wait as long. Electrify the major,
existing trunk RR's, too, cuts down on Diseasel exhaust, although the Lokie
builders are doingh a hellova job at cleaning them up, though. Help the BNSF
and UP wire MILES of roadbed out west, trains running on hydro electric,
like 80 years ago on the Milwaukee Road, and Northern Pacific, some of the
FIRST electric outfits!
> This would likely have the side benefit of getting a lot of those SUV's
and
> Hummers off the road.AND alotta tripple trailers trux, singles, too!
> Cuttiing down on the risk of getting rear ended by a SUV, be a guy in an
EV, diddling with his E meter!
OK out of my Perfect World
Bob an'
> James
>
> James F. Jarrett
> Information Systems Associate
> Charlotte Country Day School
> (704)943-4562
> http://www.ccds.charlotte.nc.us/~jarrett
> http://www.ccds.charlotte.nc.us/~jarrett/EV
>
> The superior man is distressed by the limitation of his ability; he is not
> distressed by the fact that men do not recognize the ability he has. -
> Confucius
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Behalf Of Michael Hurley
> > Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 10:31 AM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: Gas prices make electric sound pretty good!
> >
> >
> >
> > On Monday, March 1, 2004, at 04:07 AM, John Lawton wrote:
> >
> > > I pay UKP 0.779 per litre in Cambridge in the UK, (although
> > it may be
> > > a bit cheaper in other areas).
> > > A US gallon is 3.785 litres (the Imperial gallon is 4.546litres).
> > > Therefore a US gallon would cost 3.785 x 0.779 = UKP 2.95
> > > At a currency conversion rate of 1.868 this is US$ 5.51
> >
> > OK. My bad. Still, very expensive compared to here.
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________
> > Michael Hurley Digital Print Specialist
> > AlphaGraphics, Inc. (901) 681-9909
> > 1195 Ridgeway Rd. (901) 761-2139 FAX
> > Memphis, TN 38119 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
For your range, you'll be wanting at least 1/3 the total weight to be
batteries. The stock Brat is around 2200 pounds so taking away the
engine & gas tank etc. (but adding in a little for the larger tranny)
some rough numbers are around 20-24 batteries. Assuming the Orbitals at
41 pounds each. If you can cram this many in without breaking the body,
perhaps set up in 2 parallel strings (120-144 volts) and stay with the
basic Zilla 1K. Or increase your controller budget and get the 300 volt
version of the Zilla and make a single 240-288 volt string.
Since you are in snow country, you are also in cold country... you
should allow room for insulation around the batteries and some sort of
heating system if you want to keep your range during the winter. (And
where do they not salt the roads to death? I'm moving!) Add regulators
or a balancing system for the batteries to protect your investment.
Googling on the Brat lead me to a few fun sites
http://www.ultimatesubaru.net
http://www.subarubrat.com (raised Brat with swamp tires!?)
Almost tempting to go back to Subarus...
brian G wrote:
yes im in snow country but we dont salt the roads up here yet so ive
found a few old subarus with NO rust. in fact i have a 73 split
tailgatew wagon with 377k on it and its rust free. anyway geting the car
is not a problem
yes im thinking of using the chevy s10 trany. i like the idea of the
optimas or orbital batterys since there sealed.
as for the motor id rather go bigger then smaller since i dont want to
over work it. and the price differnce isnt big enough to wornt the head
ace. alothough lots of people have had luck with the 8in.
as for range. id like to get 50 or so miles at 30 mph. on falt ground.
thanks
_________
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak
1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
http://www.eeevee.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So it looks like I may be replacing the remains of my Raptor 1200 with a
Raptor 600. With plans for truck #2 starting to move, this will keep #1
on the road as a basic in-town driver.
The diode question remains open... I'm not clear if the 600 has less
diodes than the 1200 and therefore is more susceptible to the damage the
1200 saw. Or perhaps the lower battery current limit will keep the motor
loop from getting out of hand and avoid the problem. Then there is the
idea of adding external monster diodes still floating around. I wouldn't
want to upset the delicate balance of the original design, and I'm not
sure what would convince the electrons to go through the extra diodes
rather than the internal ones.
_________
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak
1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
http://www.eeevee.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
JCT wrote:
Hi all,
I am in the process of converting a CRAFTSMAN II tractor, with12HP OHV
and 38" mowing deck to lectric power and would like your opinion on dc
motor HP and other info you want to throw at me.
That is about what I have (see the album, #411 I think).
Except mine is AC induction but shouldn't make much difference.
My plan is to transfer the 4 batt (48V) and 275A 48V controller from my
e-Skidoo to the e-tractor for the summer and back to e-skidoo for the
winter.
My initial idea would be to use a 1HP PM motor and a switch for the deck
(2 blades) and a 1HP PM or series wound with the controller for the
traction.
Sounds good to me. I have a 2 HP for traction, and it is
plenty for towing cars :-) I still haven't gotten the mower
to work, around 2/3 HP is too small! I think the V-belts
are very inefficient (I have three blades) Took years to
even figure out where to put a bigger motor. How are you
going to do it? I don't have the vertical distance between
the ground and (unfortunately) the steering tie rod.
One 1/2 HP PM motor for each blade would also be an option...
Anyone care to comment? Does the HP seems to be OK for this application?
Anyone been there done that concerning separate motor for the deck?
Thanks, JCT
Jim Phillips
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/rulings/lsv/lsv.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I hope so. Maybe just an Arizona idiosyncracy.
--- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I hope you are wrong. I understand that it should pay everything. I
> know
> when I got t-boned in my Sable wagon my insurance paid me off
> including the
> deductable. Lawrence Rhodes.......
=====
. _______ Shawn T. Rutledge / KB7PWD [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(_ | |_) http://ecloud.org/ [EMAIL PROTECTED]
__) | | \______________________________________________
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you�re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If anyone has an interest in a Solectria Force, four door Metro conversion
by Solectria, with low miles and a burgundy red in color, there is one
available in Sacramento for $13K that has very low miles and is in excellent
condition. Contact me if you are interested.
-Will
Will Beckett
Beckett PC Solutions
4189 Baker Ave.
Palo Alto, CA 94306-3908
(650) 269-7011 cell
(650) 494-6922 phone/fax
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://beckettpcsolutions.com
"Let me make it easy for you!"
a Business Network Int'l member http://www.paloaltobni.com
a member of the Palo Alto Chamber of Commerce http://www.paloaltochamber.com
Support the arts, subscribe to West Bay Opera http://www.wbopera.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Awesome! I like how it looks, even without covers.
--- Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> --- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > >From my experience at 48v and a top speed of 40
> > with the Lectra I would
> > imagine that 72v should be capable of 60 mph with
> > good hill climbing with only one gear.
>
>
> How right you are! that sucker easily goes 60 but I
> have to finish off the electrical to find out just how
> fast. (it has an electronic speedo) It easily takes
> off in fifth gear on flat streets, but it's a rocket
> in second. I wouldn't want to pull any long hills in
> top gear so I'm happy having the gearbox. my future
> driveway is about 1/4 of a mile of 25% grade after
> several miles of 10% or better grade so I think gears
> are the ticket for my application. now begins the job
> of building a nice aluminum fairing and buttoning up
> the package, however I will be leaving a window into
> the batteries and cables.
>
>
> > I'm not sure what the
> > Reverend's pack weighs but I sure do want to know.
>
>
> My pack weighs 276 lbs and the bike feels about the
> same as it did with the ICE and a full tank of dino
> juice
> Gadget
>
> =====
> visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
>
=====
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you�re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
i will be also droping some wieght fromt he car as im making a carbin fiber
hood. front fenders. and doors skins . also im replacing the rear and side
glass with plexi. the subaru trany is very heavy as it holds a front
differentail as well. i can get the fly wheel lightend and also some other
misc stuff. as for the total weight of the batteries i was thining of making
an aluminum structure to spread out the weight over the entire bed and part
of the cab(bassicaly along the frame rails, as long as i can keep my weight
ballence. also im going to make some lighter stronger bumpers for it. i have
a few other plans but maybe there just dreams. lol.
would it be good to run the 3.7 diff or a 3.9 diff (limited slip on either
as im in snow country)
thansk for the links for the subaru sights ,
im very well acquainted with the both. i have a wagon that im starting to
lift 8in in the next couple of weeks.
anyway thanks for the great responsis its awsome to talk to people that are
interested in the same things i think my ICE friends and wife are tired of
my ev talk.
From: Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Look at my plan for my ev and give me input
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 11:00:02 -0500
For your range, you'll be wanting at least 1/3 the total weight to be
batteries. The stock Brat is around 2200 pounds so taking away the engine &
gas tank etc. (but adding in a little for the larger tranny) some rough
numbers are around 20-24 batteries. Assuming the Orbitals at 41 pounds
each. If you can cram this many in without breaking the body, perhaps set
up in 2 parallel strings (120-144 volts) and stay with the basic Zilla 1K.
Or increase your controller budget and get the 300 volt version of the
Zilla and make a single 240-288 volt string.
Since you are in snow country, you are also in cold country... you should
allow room for insulation around the batteries and some sort of heating
system if you want to keep your range during the winter. (And where do they
not salt the roads to death? I'm moving!) Add regulators or a balancing
system for the batteries to protect your investment.
Googling on the Brat lead me to a few fun sites
http://www.ultimatesubaru.net
http://www.subarubrat.com (raised Brat with swamp tires!?)
Almost tempting to go back to Subarus...
brian G wrote:
yes im in snow country but we dont salt the roads up here yet so ive
found a few old subarus with NO rust. in fact i have a 73 split tailgatew
wagon with 377k on it and its rust free. anyway geting the car is not a
problem
yes im thinking of using the chevy s10 trany. i like the idea of the
optimas or orbital batterys since there sealed.
as for the motor id rather go bigger then smaller since i dont want to
over work it. and the price differnce isnt big enough to wornt the head
ace. alothough lots of people have had luck with the 8in.
as for range. id like to get 50 or so miles at 30 mph. on falt ground.
thanks
_________
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak
1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
http://www.eeevee.com
_________________________________________________________________
Get business advice and resources to improve your work life, from bCentral.
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My pack of GP NiMH cells arrived today for my e-bike - 30x GP1300FH giving
me a pack of 36V at 13.5AH
I gather that the Peukart curve is not as good for NiMH as for NiCd, but
given that I'm changing from a 4AH NiCd pack to a 13.5AH NiMH pack -
pulling around 10A most of the time, will I see an improvement in range
much different to the simple ratio of the respective capacities?
Are there some precautions I should take on the first charge? I seem to
remember that one should do a significant overcharge the first time around
to ensure that all the cells are definitely at full capacity to avoid one
or more cells being reverse-volted during discharge.
I don't plan on charging the cells at faster than at the 4 hour rate, but
to prevent ingress of rain and dirt, they will be in a sealed box with
little external airflow. Is it worth fitting a small air circulation fan (
a PC CPU cooler fan perhaps?) to equalise temperature during charging?
I got my cells direct from GP in the UK - �7-85 per cell, which is a pretty
competitive price for cells of this capacity.
Of course that would still be a hugely expensive pack for a real EV!
dermot
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Rich Rudman wrote:
I've got the layout and no controlling Schematic.
I have 3 of the sensors.
Allied electric PN# 968-5301 Fairchild OPB703.
I am back engineering the Schematic. He hooks it through a LM431, and
does some pull up and Pull downs. And also has a LOT of filter Caps in
it.
The dropping R and some other 47K pull ups are the items that induced
the noise problems. Basicly if you use larger pull up and stiffer pull
downs it becomes more noise immune.
I am going to re design it, and use it on the Dyno, and as a Item drive
a Fet that will pull down a 12 volt line so I can use a "Stock
Tachometer". Normal tachs need a 2 pulse per rev signal, for 4 cycler
work and 4 pulses for V-8 work. The DCP's used 2 pulses per Rev, and
drove a current limted pull down circuit. I Do have the AS built in '99
Raptor schematics. Warning a 4 pulse pre Rev will give you rev limits on
the DCP of 1/2 what you want. Use 2 pulses per Rev.
The tach sensor that I am using right now is a 4 pulse per rev, unit
off a Sparrow spec 8incher, that Rod had installed on a 9 incher. Once
that motor leaves for Gone Poastal, then I loose my tach readings.
Ok, so we have an Optek reflective IR sensor ( OPB703 )
and a Nat Semi zener shunt regulator ( LM431 ).
I'd guess the LM431 gives a constant current through the IR LED?
( constant illumination, even with varying 12v power )
And the phototransistor pulls the signal line down to Gnd
when it gets reflected IR from a white patch on the motor shaft?
( which would suit my inductive proximity sensor - "NPN" type )
If the phototransistor pulls the signal high, well I'll just have
to add an inverting transistor between the sensor and Raptor.
Ok, I'm nearly there.... now I just need the pinout on the connector.
I don't fancy opening up the Raptor this evening ( it's raining, and
we all know Lizards hate the wet! ;-)
Luckily the belt sprocket on my motor shaft has two threaded holes,
for the set screws that force the taperlock adaptor to
contract onto the shaft - I simply found two bolts with the right
thread, and used the bolt heads to trigger the inductive sensor.
Voila, two pulses per rev, and it doesn't care about dirt.
Seems to cope with extreme RF as well, as I'm sure the motor currents
get pretty high when first moving off. But the sensor is at the
shaft end of the motor, not the commutator end, and the signal cable
is kept well away from the big nasty wires!
Thanks Rich, it's very useful info.
Regards
Richard Bebbington
electric Mini pickup
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Jim Coate wrote:
The diode sounds vaguely familiar... but are you saying there are resistors and caps in the remote box as well? That doesn't ring any bells. And yeah, my memory could be bad.
Rich Rudman wrote:
Rj 1 nc
2 RED LED
3 Yellow LED
4 Green led
5 gnd to a 1n4005, the anode goes to the common cathodes of all the
leds
6 nc
Leds are jumped with a 1K, and a .1uf cap for a filter.
I built mine with just a cable, a bit of circuit board and three
high-brightness LEDs ( 1 red, 1 yellow, 1 green )
No resistors needed, they're already on the Raptor's circuit board.
Initially, I got mine in the wrong order, so the Red LED
meant "OK", and the green one meant " UH OH!".
Kind of confusing ;-)
A quick bit of soldering, and it works fine.
Richard Bebbington
electric Mini pickup
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Mime-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v606)
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: Seth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: first charge on NiMH cells
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 19:37:57 -0500
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
A: Do you have the datasheet from GP. It is quite good.
B: Don't deviate unless you know what you are doing, and if you have to
ask...
C: At the 1 hour rate, expect 10-11Ah for 100% DOD
D: for best life, try to discharge to less than 80%
E: Vent the container when charging/ discharging. They get hot. And use
a fan.
For the first charge, peak charge them. I don't like peak charging, it
feels a little like Russian Roulette. But you will defintely know when
dV/dt falls off. (and when dT/dt climbs) I suspect for that cell, you
can peak charge at C/2, but follow the datasheet.
You need all 3 protections for charging these: timer, dV/dt and Dt/dt
or elese you will set something on fire. Charge termination detection
will be trickier as the rate drops.Take it from someone who has charged
a LOT of higher spiral wound NiMH. You can't play the same tricks with
D and F cells you can with the smaller cells, like Sub C and below.
Seth
On Mar 3, 2004, at 3:06 PM, Dermot Dobson wrote:
> My pack of GP NiMH cells arrived today for my e-bike - 30x GP1300FH
> giving me a pack of 36V at 13.5AH
>
> I gather that the Peukart curve is not as good for NiMH as for NiCd,
> but given that I'm changing from a 4AH NiCd pack to a 13.5AH NiMH pack
> - pulling around 10A most of the time, will I see an improvement in
> range much different to the simple ratio of the respective capacities?
>
> Are there some precautions I should take on the first charge? I seem
> to remember that one should do a significant overcharge the first time
> around to ensure that all the cells are definitely at full capacity to
> avoid one or more cells being reverse-volted during discharge.
>
> I don't plan on charging the cells at faster than at the 4 hour rate,
> but to prevent ingress of rain and dirt, they will be in a sealed box
> with little external airflow. Is it worth fitting a small air
> circulation fan ( a PC CPU cooler fan perhaps?) to equalise
> temperature during charging?
>
> I got my cells direct from GP in the UK - �7-85 per cell, which is a
> pretty competitive price for cells of this capacity.
>
> Of course that would still be a hugely expensive pack for a real EV!
>
> dermot
>
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