EV Digest 3395
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Fast charging
by "Tim Medeck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Gadgets on the dash question
by James D Thompson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Gadgets on dash
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: Gadgets on the dash question
by "Tim Medeck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) other dash mount ideas
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Gadgets on dash
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: Gadgets on the dash question
by "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: Gadgets on the dash question
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Your website (ScanMail has removed a file)
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
10) Will PAY for help on EV project in N.Cal
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
11) OT: Fellow EV'er Needs Help
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Orbital mounting help
by Seth Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) plugs
by Lee Dekker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Fast charging
by "bobrice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) wireless e-meter remote
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: plugs
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: wireless e-meter remote
by David Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: plugs
by Lee Dekker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: other dash mount ideas
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Gadgets on the dash question
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Gadgets on the dash question
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: wireless e-meter remote
by "James Jarrett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Fast charging
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Fast charging
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) First drive, batteries, range
by Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Fast charging
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: wireless e-meter remote
by Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: First drive, batteries, range
by Chris Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: First drive, batteries, range
by Alex Karahalios <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) RE: fun with powerwheels 2...
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: wireless e-meter remote
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) Re: Fast charging
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks for the clarification Lee. I figured it was nothing new to you gurus!
Tim Medeck
_________________________________________________________________
Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee when you click here.
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>I'd like people's expertise/suggestions on how one would
>like to semi-permanently mount a gadget (about a cell phone
>size) on a dash of a modern car.
Velcro strip with a good adhesive. Or, if you want something a little
stiffer you can try this stuff: http://tinyurl.com/2b4kd
David Thompson
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What about those plastic gauge holders that replace the trim on the edge
of the windshields. I saw a bunch of that kind of stuff at the street
racer speed shop.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Victor wrote:
I'd like people's expertise/suggestions on how one would
like to semi-permanently mount a gadget (about a cell phone
size) on a dash of a modern car.
3M Scotch VHB (Very High Bond) tape is used to glue exterior panels to motor
coaches and semi trailers in place of rivets now. It is available from
www.mcmaster.com, or if you just want a few inches of the stuff, just let me
know and I'll mail it to you for no charge. This stuff is amazing. If you
want to surface mount something, this is it. I've used it in place of welds
on some applications.
Tim Medeck
_________________________________________________________________
Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee when you click here.
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nowadays with flat screens and flat touch screens, someone ought to make
a display and controller on the sun visor!
For removable stuff, I vote for sticky velcro. My G-Anylist was held on
with that stuff and did fine.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Personally, I'd much rather be in the driver seat with
the seatbelt on.
Gadget
=====
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Like others have said, safety in an accident is of primary importance.
Have a look at what aftermarket GPS nav systems use.
How/where do they mount?
Do they have a screen for maps?
Is its position adjustable?
Since the gadget you refer to is a small rectangular shape, another
option is to mount it on top of the dash.
This will put it closer to your normal driving line of sight.
(Of course this depends on the size/shape of your dash)
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: Victor Tikhonov [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, 9 March 2004 8:01 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Gadgets on the dash question
Fellow EVers,
I'd like people's expertise/suggestions on how one would
like to semi-permanently mount a gadget (about a cell phone
size) on a dash of a modern car.
Drill holes in it an use expandable base drywall screws?
Suction caps / duct tape / bunji cords? :-)
How would *you* mount a gadget on your dash?
I saw what Garmin offers for their GPS units (I have one)
and I don't quite like it.
Of course, if you find a spot and make a hole for it
like for an e-meter, this is no longer a concern.
Objective is no/minimal damage to the dash material should
you (re)move the gadget, but have it solidly mounted
outside the dash without excessive mods like for those
computers in police cars.
Which brings another option: what do you prefer -
in dash mounting or outside? If both options are
available, which one would you pick (pros/cons) and why?
Thanks for comments,
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Victor and all,
Have you looked into using the existing dash mounting and trim
screws? Most cars usually have quite a few, most hidden under plastic
caps. I suspect with some judicious bends and angles one could make a
mounting plate from lightweight aluminium to hold almost anything
anywhere. Alternatively, you could remove one of the dash or defogger vent
covers, make the bracket to fit under the lip of it, drill the holes out of
site in the vent, then replace the vent over the bracket. I always thought
Peter Ohler's Palm mount for his EV1 was a great example of a solid
mounting without drilling visible holes. You can find it on the web at:
http://www.ohler.com/ev/ev1/MyBracket.html
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
'95 Solectria Force (almost there)
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
See the attached file for details.
* LP8.2: HTML/Attachments detected, removed from message *
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a 1960 Lambretta that I bought with plans to convert to an EV, but don't
have the technical skills to make the rear swing arm/Etek motor mount needed,
along with the other bits and pieces I never can get nicely done. Besides
having a few Eteks, I have a 4QD controller, a couple sizes of Hawkers in sets
of 4, a Vicor FlatPak charger, DC-DC converters galore, contactors, and a
couple REVI bikes that can supply their rear wheel/sprocket to the cause. I am
not just asking for help -- I am willing to spend whatever it takes to get this
on the road, or give the builder the REVI frames/etc. that is left.
Contact me by email or call 707-451-9034 - I'm in Vacaville, about 50 miles from
Sacramento or S.F.
--- End Message ---
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--- Begin Message ---
I, too, am in the middle of battery box design work.
Plasma Boy said:
...For the second set of 14 batteries, we had to create space in the
trunk floor
area. Up to this point, the little Datsun's stock kidney shaped sunken
spare tire well had
been left alone and was a hollow unused area. Marko and I thought
ahead, and decided that
since we had to use it for battery containment, we'd 'improve' on it
by cutting it out of
the car, and replacing it with a newly fabricated sunken well more
suited to holding
batteries than a spare tire....gone would be the kidney shape with a
non-flat floor molded
to fit a tire's sidewall, and in its place would be a flat floored,
larger, more
battery-friendly shape.
this is exactly what I am doing with the spare tire well in my Datsun
240Z, except sadly I don't have a metal whizz like Marko :-( I got
an Optima dummy but I can't get ahold of an orbital dummy. John, with
your powerful Exide connections, do you think you could procure an
Orbital Marine or XCD dummy for me? Please please please please
please? :-)
Seth
--
QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION
'72 Datsun 240Z Conversion
http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
--- End Message ---
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----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce EVangel Parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 2:01 AM
Subject: Re: Fast charging
I'll see Rich's PFC-50 9Kw ...
and raise you a NG5 5Kw + 4 K2's
(2*2.5Kw + 2*1Kw =) 7Kw, a total of 21Kw worth of
chargers onboard.
I have a 21Kw charging ability. I dual charging
output cables to handle the 150+ amps into my pack.
But finding an EV charging spot that has 21Kw
for me to plug into, now that is the challenge.
Usually, it is two 14-50 208VAC 40amp circuits, or
the PFC-50 turned down to 6Kw, and the NG5's 5Kw
= 11Kw into my pack.
But find me the right power, I can pump 21Kw !!!
Now that's fast charging ... Bruce style.
Now thats more like it! No wussy 10 amp outlet! I have 200 amp service in
the house, have pulled 100 amps off that charging the Rabbit, should be able
to do some serious charging with that. The big SUV, Mc Mansion houses go for
400 amp nowadaze!
Sounds like Rich needs to pop for a $ervice like that! He said only 70
amps! in his shop?Who'd a thunk it!
Seeya
Bob
=====
' ____
~/__|o\__
'@----- @'---(=
. http://geocities.com/brucedp/
. EV List Editor & RE newswires
. (originator of the above ASCII art)
=====
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
As something I always wanted for my EV, I'm working on making a wireless
remote for the e-meter (Link-10)... and I got to wondering if anyone
else would be interested in such while I'm at it? The idea is to have a
small box to carry around that shows the same info the meter display
shows... that way can be sure the breaker hasn't tripped, check the
status of an opportunity charge, etc. Basically as a security blanket to
know that the charge is progressing well without having to keep running
outside.
The downside is cost... like $300+. So the same as the e-mater itself.
The major costs are the radio modules, along with a micro-controller
chip. Plus boards, cases, and all the other widgets.
The transmitter will go under the dash and run from the house 12 volt
battery, with a dc/dc to power an opto-isolated RS232 input [Max232
derivative] to go to the transceiver [MaxStream]. Optionally could add a
second isolated RS232 port so could still plug in a laptop while the
transceiver is connected.
The remote will use a micro controller [BasicX] to process the data
received [MaxStream module] and display the useful parts. It will be a
small box with displays to toggle for amps, volts, a-hrs, & temp and a
SOC bar graph just like the meter itself. Or maybe two displays to watch
2 of the 4 things at once. It could run for a while on a battery or
plug in with a wall-wart for long term running. It will have an RS232
port on the side to connect to a computer for logging the data if
desired. Initial testing with the radio modules gives good reception
from anywhere inside the house while the EV is parked in the driveway
just outside the house.
This is the super-geek version, transmitting all the e-meter data. The
normal consumer would probably be satisfied with something like a key
fob with a tricolor LED (red=error, yellow=charging, green=complete).
I'm making this to work with the e-meter but figure that in the future
could alter the software to use with other BMS I might have. And two-way
communication will be enabled so could hook a computer to the remote and
"log in" to the BMS if it had something to respond with.
So that is my 'spare time' project... and learning project to then take
on a battery balancer project. Once my remote is working I could make
more if there is interest.
_________
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak
1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
http://www.eeevee.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Now the amusing part is that Honda also makes the Civic GX, which is
natural gas. Those driving natural gas vehicles are very interested in
the home fueling stations that are supposed to be coming out. Rather
than driving to the filling station for a quick high pressure
("current") fill ("charge"), these devices will fill the NG tank
overnight from a regular low pressure gas line ("outlet") already in the
house for the stove, furnace, etc.
So the NGV folks want to make the paradigm shift to fueling at home
while doing something else. EVers already have made this shift to
filling (charging) at home while eating dinner or sleeping etc. And yet
it is advertised against as something bad. Go figure.
Lee Dekker wrote:
Saw the Honda Civic hybrid add on TV last night. They are using the
> same “never have to plug it in” line as Toyota.
_________
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak
1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
http://www.eeevee.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That sounds *awesome*!!! I don't currently have a conversion that has an
e-meter in it, but if this gadget is available when I build that conversion,
I will buy one.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Coate [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 1:01 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: wireless e-meter remote
>
>
> As something I always wanted for my EV, I'm working on making a wireless
> remote for the e-meter (Link-10)... and I got to wondering if anyone
> else would be interested in such while I'm at it? The idea is to have a
> small box to carry around that shows the same info the meter display
> shows... that way can be sure the breaker hasn't tripped, check the
> status of an opportunity charge, etc. Basically as a security blanket to
> know that the charge is progressing well without having to keep running
> outside.
>
> The downside is cost... like $300+. So the same as the e-mater itself.
> The major costs are the radio modules, along with a micro-controller
> chip. Plus boards, cases, and all the other widgets.
>
> The transmitter will go under the dash and run from the house 12 volt
> battery, with a dc/dc to power an opto-isolated RS232 input [Max232
> derivative] to go to the transceiver [MaxStream]. Optionally could add a
> second isolated RS232 port so could still plug in a laptop while the
> transceiver is connected.
>
> The remote will use a micro controller [BasicX] to process the data
> received [MaxStream module] and display the useful parts. It will be a
> small box with displays to toggle for amps, volts, a-hrs, & temp and a
> SOC bar graph just like the meter itself. Or maybe two displays to watch
> 2 of the 4 things at once. It could run for a while on a battery or
> plug in with a wall-wart for long term running. It will have an RS232
> port on the side to connect to a computer for logging the data if
> desired. Initial testing with the radio modules gives good reception
> from anywhere inside the house while the EV is parked in the driveway
> just outside the house.
>
> This is the super-geek version, transmitting all the e-meter data. The
> normal consumer would probably be satisfied with something like a key
> fob with a tricolor LED (red=error, yellow=charging, green=complete).
> I'm making this to work with the e-meter but figure that in the future
> could alter the software to use with other BMS I might have. And two-way
> communication will be enabled so could hook a computer to the remote and
> "log in" to the BMS if it had something to respond with.
>
> So that is my 'spare time' project... and learning project to then take
> on a battery balancer project. Once my remote is working I could make
> more if there is interest.
>
> _________
> Jim Coate
> 1970's Elec-Trak
> 1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
> 1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
> http://www.eeevee.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
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--- Begin Message ---
Jeff Shanab wrote:
Nowadays with flat screens and flat touch screens, someone ought to make
a display and controller on the sun visor!
Unless you complicate things with wireless interface, imagine a bundle
of wires coming to the visor.
For removable stuff, I vote for sticky velcro. My G-Anylist was held on
with that stuff and did fine.
Point taken, thank you, will evaluate this. I checked yesterday the spot
for a standard radio. The LCD PCB alone is slightly larger that that, so
no way it can fit in. However, it can be mounted on outside of the
special face patch for radio bay.
Keep the ideas flowing!
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark Fowler wrote:
Like others have said, safety in an accident is of primary importance.
It is very important, but you drive and use it every day while
rarely if ever get into such an accident that fly toward your BMS.
Have a look at what aftermarket GPS nav systems use.
Done, looked at few marine ones and automotive.
How/where do they mount?
A locking base you tape (or bolt) to the dash on top, and
removable unit locks into it.
Do they have a screen for maps?
What's the point of a GPS without screen ???
Is its position adjustable?
Yes, Garmins are swivel around the base, and part of the
case is tiltable and lockable with a thumb screw behind.
Since the gadget you refer to is a small rectangular shape, another
option is to mount it on top of the dash.
This will put it closer to your normal driving line of sight.
(Of course this depends on the size/shape of your dash)
Yes, there seem to be no two car models with the dash alike...
The size planned is about 230 x 70 mm (9" x 2 3/4"), most of which is
existing display PCB. This is
not exactly small face. It should be smaller, but cramming lots
of info in a tiny (palm like) screen is not good especially if
you read it while driving.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: Victor Tikhonov [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, 9 March 2004 8:01 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Gadgets on the dash question
Fellow EVers,
I'd like people's expertise/suggestions on how one would
like to semi-permanently mount a gadget (about a cell phone
size) on a dash of a modern car.
Drill holes in it an use expandable base drywall screws?
Suction caps / duct tape / bunji cords? :-)
How would *you* mount a gadget on your dash?
I saw what Garmin offers for their GPS units (I have one)
and I don't quite like it.
Of course, if you find a spot and make a hole for it
like for an e-meter, this is no longer a concern.
Objective is no/minimal damage to the dash material should
you (re)move the gadget, but have it solidly mounted
outside the dash without excessive mods like for those
computers in police cars.
Which brings another option: what do you prefer -
in dash mounting or outside? If both options are
available, which one would you pick (pros/cons) and why?
Thanks for comments,
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike Chancey wrote:
Hi Victor and all,
Have you looked into using the existing dash mounting and trim screws?
Most cars usually have quite a few, most hidden under plastic caps. I
suspect with some judicious bends and angles one could make a mounting
plate from lightweight aluminium to hold almost anything anywhere.
Alternatively, you could remove one of the dash or defogger vent covers,
make the bracket to fit under the lip of it, drill the holes out of site
in the vent, then replace the vent over the bracket. I always thought
Peter Ohler's Palm mount for his EV1 was a great example of a solid
mounting without drilling visible holes. You can find it on the web at:
http://www.ohler.com/ev/ev1/MyBracket.html
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
'95 Solectria Force (almost there)
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
Yes, Mike, thanks for the great example. It is not a problem
for me to mount stuff on *my* dash, I've attached larger
pieces to it in the past, you've probably seen this:
http://www.metricmind.com/ac_honda/images/display2.jpg
http://www.metricmind.com/ac_honda/images/dash3.jpg
But I do many things in my EV I wouldn't recommend to
a customer :-)
I'm thinking how to design a gadget case so the minimal
work required for someone who will try to attach it.
Do I make tiltable screen while the enclosure stay put?
Pivots? Would people want to unsnap it and hide in a glove
box like those detachable faces of expensive radios?
When you start designing what seems to be a simple thing, there are
many challenges which become apparent later. I'm trying
to foresee as many as I can and make fewer mistakes for
the first run. Therefore yall's (as they say in Texas)
responses are invaluable help.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It sounds REALLY cool, but it seems to me that the price is a tad high. I'm
not an engineer myself, but considering the plethera of low cost wireless
products on the market today, it seems like there would be a cheaper
solution. Heck an inexpensive X10 wireless video camera pointed at the
dash, with a battery powered reciver and pocket tv would be less than 200
bux all total.
James
James F. Jarrett
Information Systems Associate
Charlotte Country Day School
(704)943-4562
http://www.ccds.charlotte.nc.us/~jarrett
http://www.ccds.charlotte.nc.us/~jarrett/EV
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've got a 1600 amp service here at my shop( as he
puffs his chest) but my question is about building a
dump pack. I have no power at the other end of my
commute, except for solar. Is there a rule of thumb
for sizing one and how does one control it?
Gadget
--- bobrice <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bruce EVangel Parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 2:01 AM
> Subject: Re: Fast charging
>
>
> I'll see Rich's PFC-50 9Kw ...
> and raise you a NG5 5Kw + 4 K2's
> (2*2.5Kw + 2*1Kw =) 7Kw, a total of 21Kw worth of
> chargers onboard.
>
> I have a 21Kw charging ability. I dual charging
> output cables to handle the 150+ amps into my pack.
>
> But finding an EV charging spot that has 21Kw
> for me to plug into, now that is the challenge.
>
> Usually, it is two 14-50 208VAC 40amp circuits, or
> the PFC-50 turned down to 6Kw, and the NG5's 5Kw
> = 11Kw into my pack.
>
> But find me the right power, I can pump 21Kw !!!
> Now that's fast charging ... Bruce style.
>
> Now thats more like it! No wussy 10 amp outlet! I
> have 200 amp service in
> the house, have pulled 100 amps off that charging
> the Rabbit, should be able
> to do some serious charging with that. The big SUV,
> Mc Mansion houses go for
> 400 amp nowadaze!
>
> Sounds like Rich needs to pop for a $ervice like
> that! He said only 70
> amps! in his shop?Who'd a thunk it!
>
> Seeya
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> =====
> ' ____
> ~/__|o\__
> '@----- @'---(=
> . http://geocities.com/brucedp/
> . EV List Editor & RE newswires
> . (originator of the above ASCII art)
> =====
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
=====
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You have 480Vac 3 phase?
Perhaps you could put up 200Amps of service on Ebay
for your fellow EV'rs :-)
I only have 100Amp service, it works OK for
my Dodge TEVan and other EV's (GE Elec Trac, Club Car
golf cart, 3 scooters, 2 go carts).
My E bill is pretty high, I would hate to see yours
(or Rich's).
Rod
--- Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I've got a 1600 amp service here at my shop( as he
> puffs his chest) but my question is about building a
> dump pack. I have no power at the other end of my
> commute, except for solar. Is there a rule of thumb
> for sizing one and how does one control it?
>
> Gadget
>
>
> --- bobrice <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Bruce EVangel Parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 2:01 AM
> > Subject: Re: Fast charging
> >
> >
> > I'll see Rich's PFC-50 9Kw ...
> > and raise you a NG5 5Kw + 4 K2's
> > (2*2.5Kw + 2*1Kw =) 7Kw, a total of 21Kw worth of
> > chargers onboard.
> >
> > I have a 21Kw charging ability. I dual charging
> > output cables to handle the 150+ amps into my
> pack.
> >
> > But finding an EV charging spot that has 21Kw
> > for me to plug into, now that is the challenge.
> >
> > Usually, it is two 14-50 208VAC 40amp circuits, or
> > the PFC-50 turned down to 6Kw, and the NG5's 5Kw
> > = 11Kw into my pack.
> >
> > But find me the right power, I can pump 21Kw !!!
> > Now that's fast charging ... Bruce style.
> >
> > Now thats more like it! No wussy 10 amp outlet! I
> > have 200 amp service in
> > the house, have pulled 100 amps off that charging
> > the Rabbit, should be able
> > to do some serious charging with that. The big
> SUV,
> > Mc Mansion houses go for
> > 400 amp nowadaze!
> >
> > Sounds like Rich needs to pop for a $ervice like
> > that! He said only 70
> > amps! in his shop?Who'd a thunk it!
> >
> > Seeya
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> >
> > =====
> > ' ____
> > ~/__|o\__
> > '@----- @'---(=
> > . http://geocities.com/brucedp/
> > . EV List Editor & RE newswires
> > . (originator of the above ASCII art)
> > =====
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for
> faster
> > http://search.yahoo.com
> >
>
>
> =====
> visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, the vacuum switch did the job; now the Electric Olds has good
brakes. Nathan took it for a test drive to calculate its range; here is
an edited version of his email to me.
"Yesterday I took my electric station wagon on its first test drive. I
had spent some time getting the brakes and 12-volt system to work, and
now I was finally getting to use it. So I carefully took it around the
block. No problems. Good acceleration, easy shifting, good
deceleration. Later that evening I had to make a run to a pharmacy
about 2 miles away. I took the electric to make it fun. No fun. As I
was pulling out of the parking lot on my way home, I noticed it was no
longer accelerating very well. As a matter of fact, calling it
accelerating is being very generous. I felt sorry for the guy who
slowed down to let me out into traffic. He eventually pulled around
me. I mean, how long are you going to stay behind some guy who's only
going 15 and slowing down? I did manage to get it off the road and into
a parking lot before it stopped moving altogether. Then I drove around
the lot at a fast walk, as fast as the car could go, looking for an
outlet I could plug into and pirate a few hours of electricity. No
luck. So I parked it in front of a Batteries Plus store in hopes that
the battery man would be sympathetic. The next morning he generously
let me plug in and recharge and earlier tonight I drove it home. About
2 miles. No problems."
He's in Reno, but it's a balmy 70+ degrees out there. Therefore I expect the
range problem was because the batteries were sitting for three months
without exercise. They're 12 Trojan 30XHS, and the EVDL has already told us this is a poor EV battery. The guy at the battery store says different, though; he thinks these are some of the best batteries we'll be able to get. So now Nathan wants to know what makes them so poor, and the only thing I can come up with is internal resistance. Anybody care to explain in better detail?
We're working on the battery resurrection tips we got from the list earlier, but it sounds like he just committed battericide to me. I warned him not to drive them dead again, and that we need to use them a few times before they really wake up. I figure about 100v on the pack is the least we should allow, but Nathan can't figure out how to make the E-meter display pack voltage. We didn't get a manual; is it even possible? How else do we know when to stop driving?
Thanks for all the help,
Judebert
Still EVirgin
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--- Begin Message ---
Actually the building has 240V 3 phase. But I got
amps. My building has "T" three phase- 2 120V legs and
a 208V "stinger" leg. It's kinda funky but it gives me
single phase and three phase on the same service. And
your right, you don't want to see my E-bill.
Gadget
--- Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> You have 480Vac 3 phase?
> Perhaps you could put up 200Amps of service on Ebay
> for your fellow EV'rs :-)
> I only have 100Amp service, it works OK for
> my Dodge TEVan and other EV's (GE Elec Trac, Club
> Car
> golf cart, 3 scooters, 2 go carts).
> My E bill is pretty high, I would hate to see yours
> (or Rich's).
> Rod
> --- Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > I've got a 1600 amp service here at my shop( as he
> > puffs his chest) but my question is about building
> a
> > dump pack. I have no power at the other end of my
> > commute, except for solar. Is there a rule of
> thumb
> > for sizing one and how does one control it?
> >
> > Gadget
=====
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That sounds pretty cool. But you could also do the same thing with a
car PC (which has other uses like music and maps) and a PDA with a wifi
link (like a Sharp Zaurus for example). It would cost more but it
would also have more than one use.
=====
. _______ Shawn T. Rutledge / KB7PWD [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(_ | |_) http://ecloud.org/ [EMAIL PROTECTED]
__) | | \______________________________________________
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you�re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
He's in Reno, but it's a balmy 70+ degrees out there. Therefore I
expect the range problem was because the batteries were sitting for
three months without exercise. They're 12 Trojan 30XHS, and the EVDL
has already told us this is a poor EV battery. The guy at the battery
store says different, though; he thinks these are some of the best
batteries we'll be able to get. So now Nathan wants to know what makes
them so poor, and the only thing I can come up with is internal
resistance. Anybody care to explain in better detail?
Well, I'm not sure what all this is, but I can say that driving my car
all winter with a max drive of <10 miles has really tanked the range.
I've also noticed that if I drive it down, then charge, then drive, it
goes a little further each time. Last week with the spell of warm
weather I could take my Prizm 25 miles where a week before it would poop
out at 10. And this is in 50-60 degree weather. I'm hoping to get my 30+
mile range back once the weather gets back to the 70's and 80's...
Last night by comparison it got back down into the low 30's and I took
it for another run. Barely made it 16 miles before the pack was
exhausted. Temp makes a *BIG* difference, even on Hawkers. I think the
literature that says they lose 30% power at 32 degrees F is a bit
optimistic.
We're working on the battery resurrection tips we got from the list
earlier, but it sounds like he just committed battericide to me. I
warned him not to drive them dead again, and that we need to use them a
few times before they really wake up. I figure about 100v on the pack
is the least we should allow, but Nathan can't figure out how to make
the E-meter display pack voltage. We didn't get a manual; is it even
possible? How else do we know when to stop driving?
E-meter should display pack voltage if hooked up properly. The manual is
online. Try googling for it.
I try to never take my pack below 260 volts under load. The Dolphin
controller on my pack will limit current to no less than 250 volts. And
in the words of this list, that's asking for trouble. I have a 300 volt
pack.
The lowest you probably want to go is 126 volts on a 144 volt pack.
That's 10.5 volts per battery. Go lower than that and you run the risk
of reversing and blowing a cell. Go lower than 120 volts (10 volts per
battery) and you're really asking for trouble.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes, it's possible. You can get the owner's manual for the E-Meter
(Link-10) at
http://www.xantrex.com/support/docserve.asp?id=72
Alex Karahalios
On Mar 9, 2004, at 6:37 PM, Jude Anthony wrote:
Nathan can't figure out how to make the E-meter display pack voltage.
We didn't get a manual; is it even possible?
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--- Begin Message ---
I've fixed and hotrodded several powerwheels. Great fun, and I'm not
even talking about the kids yet! Here are a few of my observations:
Doubled voltage on Lamborghini = broken trannies. I think it is the
sudden jolt of starting that does them in. If you could start more
gradually, then I think the powerwheels would be up to doubled
voltage. One idea is the "controller" from a cordless drill might
work to slowly ramp up the current. Another thought is just a
potentiometer -- any ideas anyone for a cheap 30 Amp potentiometer?
You'd waste a bit of power starting off, but since these cars are run
at full throttle most of the time, not a problem. Of course, you
could buy a "real" controller, like for a wheelchair or something.
I found I can buy a Hawker Cyclon 12 V, 8 Ahr battery for $25. They
fit perfectly in the battery wells. They look like baby Optimas, so
you can have vicarious NEDRA fantasies. They'll run for hours, use
two if you want megarange. Two will just fit under the seat of a
Lamborghini. Automotive female blade type connectors slip nicely onto
the terminals. You can also fairly easily make one into a 6 volt
battery by putting the two battery halves in parallel.
I like to put in a self-resetting 30 Amp auto fuse. Then if a kid
trips it (like by going through high grass uphill) it "fixes" itself.
The Jeeps can do wheelies when you double the voltage! Consider
weighting down the front end. Lamborghinis don't have this problem.
Something I want to try: Putting 12 V LEDs across the braking
resistor, for tail lights. Then when the driver lifts, the brake
lights would come on.
=====
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you�re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This brings up something I would like to see for us hobbyists.
Remember the Honda EV+ key fob remote? That was slick!
I believe it was rated for 1000 foot range, had a display of battery
state of charge and a precondition button. You could push this button
1/2 hour before you left (say from inside your home or office) and
the car would preheat or precool using grid power.
It's wireless communication that stumps me on this one. Does anyone
know of a way to implement this in a small remote inexpensively.
Does anyone know of a auto remote on the market now that receives information?
I'd built one if I could work out the communication part in a simple manner.
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
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--- Begin Message ---
Boy have I got a charger for you!! Chloride Electronetworks, bus selectable
up to 480 V input, rainproof enclosure, brains. I think they put out 220 or
230 Vdc or so. David Chapman.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reverend Gadget" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 6:41 PM
Subject: Re: Fast charging
> Actually the building has 240V 3 phase. But I got
> amps. My building has "T" three phase- 2 120V legs and
> a 208V "stinger" leg. It's kinda funky but it gives me
> single phase and three phase on the same service. And
> your right, you don't want to see my E-bill.
>
> Gadget
>
>
> --- Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > You have 480Vac 3 phase?
Snip!!
--- End Message ---
