EV Digest 3396
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: fun with powerwheels 2...
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) tango at SAE ?
by Fortunat Mueller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Fast charging
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: wireless e-meter remote
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: First drive, batteries, range
by Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Zinc fuel cells
by Fortunat Mueller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: fun with powerwheels 2...
by Chris Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: First drive, batteries, range
by Chris Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: wireless e-meter remote
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Modify Zivian NG3 for Current Interupt Algorithm
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: fun with powerwheels 2...
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Rewinding a charger transformer - strange turns.
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: OT: Fellow EV'er Needs Help
by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Best 2wd trany??
by "brian G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE
First drive, batteries, range
by billb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: First drive, batteries, range
by Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Best 2wd trany??
by Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: wireless e-meter remote
by Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Best 2wd trany??
by "brian G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: wireless e-meter remote
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Best 2wd trany??
by Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Modify Zivian NG3 for Current Interupt Algorithm
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: wireless e-meter remote
by Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: wireless e-meter remote, Yes!
by "bobrice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Got Torque?
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: wireless e-meter remote
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: wireless e-meter remote - long range
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Humm, how about series/parallel shifting for speed control?
step 1 - 12v
step 2 - 24v
Just need an extra switch for the accellerator and perhaps
some relays and creative wireing for the batteries.
L8r
Ryan
David Dymaxion wrote:
I've fixed and hotrodded several powerwheels. Great fun, and I'm not
even talking about the kids yet! Here are a few of my observations:
Doubled voltage on Lamborghini = broken trannies. I think it is the
sudden jolt of starting that does them in. If you could start more
gradually, then I think the powerwheels would be up to doubled
voltage. One idea is the "controller" from a cordless drill might
work to slowly ramp up the current. Another thought is just a
potentiometer -- any ideas anyone for a cheap 30 Amp potentiometer?
You'd waste a bit of power starting off, but since these cars are run
at full throttle most of the time, not a problem. Of course, you
could buy a "real" controller, like for a wheelchair or something.
I found I can buy a Hawker Cyclon 12 V, 8 Ahr battery for $25. They
fit perfectly in the battery wells. They look like baby Optimas, so
you can have vicarious NEDRA fantasies. They'll run for hours, use
two if you want megarange. Two will just fit under the seat of a
Lamborghini. Automotive female blade type connectors slip nicely onto
the terminals. You can also fairly easily make one into a 6 volt
battery by putting the two battery halves in parallel.
I like to put in a self-resetting 30 Amp auto fuse. Then if a kid
trips it (like by going through high grass uphill) it "fixes" itself.
The Jeeps can do wheelies when you double the voltage! Consider
weighting down the front end. Lamborghinis don't have this problem.
Something I want to try: Putting 12 V LEDs across the braking
resistor, for tail lights. Then when the driver lifts, the brake
lights would come on.
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--- Begin Message ---
Hey all,
i am spending the week at the SAE World Expo in
Detroit. Most of the papers being presented are
useless marketing fluff or well meaning, but
underwhelming university research presentations.
but one talk on this mornings agenda caught my eye. It
was titled, "Design of a Freeway-Capable Narrow Lane
Vehicle".
Of course, I immediately thought of the Tango. Well, i
missed the talk, but I did get a chance to browse
through the paper that is for sale at the bookstore
here (for those who might be interested it is probably
also available online and is Paper no 2004-01-0760).
Anyway, the paper isn't about the Tango, but it is a
study done by some graduate students (i think) at UC
Davis about the need for, and viability of a narrow
lane vehicle. They discuss some pros and cons of
various existing designs in a rather superficial way,
but i think it is an interesting read none the less.
(I imagine that rick and people at Commutacars are
already familiar with the publication).
As an interesting note, the paper brief comment about
the tango is that it is a vehicle that is unsure of
its identity (they mention its unusual performance
focus and its heavy weight). But, the concept that the
authors come up with, is pretty similar to the Tango
in many regards. admittedly, I am no expert on either,
but they choose a tandem two seater with four wheels
and an electric drivetrain. I think they chose li ion
batteries and a 35 kW solectria drive train though.
anyway, i thought some of you all might be interested.
i may have some other comments to share about the expo
when i get home, but from a BEV standpoint, it has
been pretty slow. i did go to a talk given from a guy
from Gaia (aka Lithium Technologies), about their Li
Ioin battery development.
~fortunat
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How about a controller of the appropriate voltage/amperage range and a big
inductor to mimic a motor? Voltmeter and Ammeter to monitor the current and
a panel pot to adjust it. Probably could use an older cheaper controller.
Might not even need big contactors, just a DC rated breaker and maybe a
couple big fuses. David Chapman.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reverend Gadget" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 5:59 PM
Subject: Re: Fast charging
> I've got a 1600 amp service here at my shop( as he
> puffs his chest) but my question is about building a
> dump pack. I have no power at the other end of my
> commute, except for solar. Is there a rule of thumb
> for sizing one and how does one control it?
>
> Gadget
>
>
> --- bobrice <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Bruce EVangel Parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 2:01 AM
> > Subject: Re: Fast charging
> >
> >
> > I'll see Rich's PFC-50 9Kw ...
> > and raise you a NG5 5Kw + 4 K2's
> > (2*2.5Kw + 2*1Kw =) 7Kw, a total of 21Kw worth of
> > chargers onboard.
> >
> > I have a 21Kw charging ability. I dual charging
> > output cables to handle the 150+ amps into my pack.
> >
> > But finding an EV charging spot that has 21Kw
> > for me to plug into, now that is the challenge.
> >
> > Usually, it is two 14-50 208VAC 40amp circuits, or
> > the PFC-50 turned down to 6Kw, and the NG5's 5Kw
> > = 11Kw into my pack.
> >
> > But find me the right power, I can pump 21Kw !!!
> > Now that's fast charging ... Bruce style.
> >
> > Now thats more like it! No wussy 10 amp outlet! I
> > have 200 amp service in
> > the house, have pulled 100 amps off that charging
> > the Rabbit, should be able
> > to do some serious charging with that. The big SUV,
> > Mc Mansion houses go for
> > 400 amp nowadaze!
> >
> > Sounds like Rich needs to pop for a $ervice like
> > that! He said only 70
> > amps! in his shop?Who'd a thunk it!
> >
> > Seeya
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> >
> > =====
> > ' ____
> > ~/__|o\__
> > '@----- @'---(=
> > . http://geocities.com/brucedp/
> > . EV List Editor & RE newswires
> > . (originator of the above ASCII art)
> > =====
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster
> > http://search.yahoo.com
> >
>
>
> =====
> visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Otmar [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> It's wireless communication that stumps me on this one. Does anyone
> know of a way to implement this in a small remote inexpensively.
> I'd built one if I could work out the communication part in a
> simple manner.
Check out TI's offerings <http://www.ti.com/sc/trf6900>
Looks like you can get a one-chip 900MHz transceiver (TRF5901 or
TRF6900) for about $6.40 in qty 1 from the likes of DigiKey, and the
TRF6901 is even a bit cheaper at $5.40.
Of course they'd prefer you to use it with one of their ultra-low power
MSP430 micros, but presumably anyone's micro will interface to the
transceiver's serial port.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Well, I'm not sure what all this is, but I can say that driving my car
> all winter with a max drive of <10 miles has really tanked the range.
> I've also noticed that if I drive it down, then charge, then drive, it
> goes a little further each time.
If you'd add a digital thermometer to your battery pack, you'd probably
notice that the pack gets warmer after ever discharge/charge. This is
why your range is improving.
Add about 1" of styro foam insulation and it will stay warm for a day or
so. Then as long as yo drive it every day, your range will stay up near
your warm weather range.
> Last week with the spell of warm
> weather I could take my Prizm 25 miles where a week before it would poop
> out at 10. And this is in 50-60 degree weather. I'm hoping to get my 30+
> mile range back once the weather gets back to the 70's and 80's...
>
> Last night by comparison it got back down into the low 30's and I took
> it for another run. Barely made it 16 miles before the pack was
> exhausted. Temp makes a *BIG* difference, even on Hawkers. I think the
> literature that says they lose 30% power at 32 degrees F is a bit
> optimistic.
>
> > We're working on the battery resurrection tips we got from the list
> > earlier, but it sounds like he just committed battericide to me. I
> > warned him not to drive them dead again, and that we need to use them a
> > few times before they really wake up. I figure about 100v on the pack
> > is the least we should allow, but Nathan can't figure out how to make
> > the E-meter display pack voltage. We didn't get a manual; is it even
> > possible? How else do we know when to stop driving?
>
> E-meter should display pack voltage if hooked up properly. The manual is
> online. Try googling for it.
>
> I try to never take my pack below 260 volts under load. The Dolphin
> controller on my pack will limit current to no less than 250 volts. And
> in the words of this list, that's asking for trouble. I have a 300 volt
> pack.
>
> The lowest you probably want to go is 126 volts on a 144 volt pack.
> That's 10.5 volts per battery. Go lower than that and you run the risk
> of reversing and blowing a cell. Go lower than 120 volts (10 volts per
> battery) and you're really asking for trouble.
>
> Chris
--
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The problem with the world is stupidity. Not saying there should be a
capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the
safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> I still wonder about the voltage sag problems
> with the non-PbA chemistry. Is it fairly
> easy to build an inverter which can deal with
> widely varying DC inputs, so it can still
> deliver power when needed (even if efficiency
> goes way down, and batteries heat up)?
sorry, i am a few days behind on reading the EVDL, but
in case this question hasn't been answered :
i don't know about easy, but I do know that almost all
the drivetrains that are being built for FC vehicles
have this capability. They are typically BLDC motors
(or synchronous AC, if you like) and operate over a
wide DC voltage range. Something like 240-460 VDC is
not uncommon.
I doubt that any battery chemistry sags this much.
~fortunat
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--- Begin Message ---
Doubled voltage on Lamborghini = broken trannies. I think it is the
sudden jolt of starting that does them in. If you could start more
gradually, then I think the powerwheels would be up to doubled
voltage. One idea is the "controller" from a cordless drill might
work to slowly ramp up the current. Another thought is just a
potentiometer -- any ideas anyone for a cheap 30 Amp potentiometer?
You'd waste a bit of power starting off, but since these cars are run
at full throttle most of the time, not a problem. Of course, you
could buy a "real" controller, like for a wheelchair or something.
*nod* Problem is as soon as you hit a bump or something the current will
surge and *snap* one will tear apart another transmission. The
Elec-Traks got around this problem with a shunt monitoring circuit that
would cut out field weakening if the armature current exceeded a certain
amount. You could try replacing the FP motors with shunt motors (keeps
plug braking) and have a seperate control to handle field weakening with
this sort of circuit (not really complex) or build a current limiter for
the existing system.
Also can the existing switches safely make/clear at 24 volts? You really
don't want to weld power on; perhaps install a rated contactor and have
the floor switch turn that on and off (would also lower the amount of
wire between battery and motors)
I found I can buy a Hawker Cyclon 12 V, 8 Ahr battery for $25. They
fit perfectly in the battery wells. They look like baby Optimas, so
you can have vicarious NEDRA fantasies. They'll run for hours, use
two if you want megarange. Two will just fit under the seat of a
Lamborghini. Automotive female blade type connectors slip nicely onto
the terminals. You can also fairly easily make one into a 6 volt
battery by putting the two battery halves in parallel.
How do the Cyclons hold up in terms of voltage drop under load? Do you
have an E-meter you can put into this thing? Reason is as voltage sags
the current draw goes way up, leading to blown breakers (see below)
I like to put in a self-resetting 30 Amp auto fuse. Then if a kid
trips it (like by going through high grass uphill) it "fixes" itself.
Mine seems to have a self-resetting breaker down in the footwell. This
only pops when the Genesis battery is nearing empty, and the voltage is
dropping/current rising to compensate. After a minute it cools and resets.
I need more battery capacity, that is for sure.
The Jeeps can do wheelies when you double the voltage! Consider
weighting down the front end. Lamborghinis don't have this problem.
Perfect place for a Hawker. I have a 13ah Genesis in the front of my
jeep to fix this problem. Be sure to lube the front steering, as you
have more weight on the spindles and such. Now to tie it into the main
power grid...
Something I want to try: Putting 12 V LEDs across the braking
resistor, for tail lights. Then when the driver lifts, the brake
lights would come on.
*smile* Cute thought.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you'd add a digital thermometer to your battery pack, you'd probably
notice that the pack gets warmer after ever discharge/charge. This is
why your range is improving.
*nod* I have 7 sensors in the pack, and they do confirm it warms up
after charges. However it still seems that if you do shallow discharges
on a pack, then keep it "peaked" the range goes down.
Add about 1" of styro foam insulation and it will stay warm for a day or
so. Then as long as yo drive it every day, your range will stay up near
your warm weather range.
Mmm... Unfortunately there is no space for insulation on the Prizm pack,
and the bottom is both steel and right under the car (in the airflow).
I'll have to think about this one over the spring/summer, without
insulation I don't know if battery heaters alone will keep it warm.
Spring and summer will be here soon. Ah the days of 35-40 mile range.
Driving with two bars on the E-meter and not going "Oh heck, it's about
to die!"...
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roger Stockton wrote:
Otmar [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It's wireless communication that stumps me on this one. Does anyone
know of a way to implement this in a small remote inexpensively.
I'd built one if I could work out the communication part in a
simple manner.
Check out TI's offerings <http://www.ti.com/sc/trf6900>
Looks like you can get a one-chip 900MHz transceiver (TRF5901 or
TRF6900) for about $6.40 in qty 1 from the likes of DigiKey, and the
TRF6901 is even a bit cheaper at $5.40.
Of course they'd prefer you to use it with one of their ultra-low power
MSP430 micros, but presumably anyone's micro will interface to the
transceiver's serial port.
Cheers,
Roger.
Microchip and Maxim both make controllers with RF stage integrated
in it as well as stand alone transmitters and receivers.
But off-shelf wireless RS232 extenders may work better, or
I should say present less effort if all you need is remote
display (one way comm).
I'm planning on add on option for BMS - exactly as Jim
described, which is remotely monitor charging progress.
Normally this part of the gadget will be left unpopulated.
But, one thing at the time...
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello, I am new to this mailing list and new to EVs. Forgive me if this
has already been posted, but I have searched without finding similar
information.
I have read the paper by Keyser et al with respect to "Current Interupt
Charging Algorithm" for VRLA AGM batteries and it intrigues me that they
can extende the life of VRLA batteries by 2 times by using a Current
Interrupt technique. I was wondering, since the Zivan NG3 charger can
be programmed, can it be programmed to apply a constant current charge
to 100% charge, then repeating a cycle of charge for 15 seconds, then
rest for 20 seconds, until a 3 Ah overcharge was provided?
In the paper, they applied a large amperage CC charge (100amps to a 288
volt pack), I realize that there is no way the Zivan can approach this
capacity, but the effect may be similar.
thanks
Don
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Snipped for brevity, comments inserted.
> Also can the existing switches safely make/clear at 24 volts? You really
> don't want to weld power on; perhaps install a rated contactor and have
> the floor switch turn that on and off (would also lower the amount of
> wire between battery and motors)
It might be beyond the budget scope on these things but if you find you need
24 V rated switches, contactors and relays, drop me a line OL. I have a
large assortment of this stuff and they go pretty reasonable in the lower
ranges like you probably need.
> > I like to put in a self-resetting 30 Amp auto fuse. Then if a kid
> > trips it (like by going through high grass uphill) it "fixes" itself.
>
> Mine seems to have a self-resetting breaker down in the footwell. This
> only pops when the Genesis battery is nearing empty, and the voltage is
> dropping/current rising to compensate. After a minute it cools and resets.
I have found these high amperage 24V circuit breakers at RV and Marine
shops. You might even try NAPA in their farm and tractor/fleet catalogs.
Good luck and have fun with your mini-ev projects. Can't think of a better
way to start off the kids. David Chapman.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
James Massey wrote:
> I pulled apart a very old 72V 3600VA (rated input 240V 15A) charger
> transformer in order to get it rewound to be multi-tapped output to
> charge 96V, 120V or 144V (contingency for as my pack ages).
Sorry for being slow to get back to you on this, James. I was travelling
last week.
> The transformer is 'I' laminates, of two different lengths, lapped
> up to form a single-loop core:
That's a fairly common core structure when you are only going to make a
small number of transformers. It's easier to stackup the I's, wind them,
then assemble the core together. With conventional E-I laminations, you
have to wind some kind of bobbin, then insert the E's and I's into it.
> I assume that the limit on the charging current is either by turns
> per volt, or purely that the taps are selected to set the current
> when matched to the battery.
Right. This core appears to develop about 1 volt per turn. So you just
need to figure out how many turns need to be in the primary and
secondary for the voltages desired.
> The transformer design is that the primary is wound on first, half
> on each side of the core, with the secondary on top, half on each
> side...
Again, that is quite normal. The primary usually has the highest
voltage, and so the most turns of the smallest wire. They wind it on the
core first, because the wire bends easier.
> Primary Secondary
> VAC
> 0V ----, ||| ,------0V
> (6t) ||| @
> 6.5 ---@ ||| @
> (6t) ||| @
> 12.8 ---@ ||| @
> (6t) ||| @
> 19.3 ---@ ||| @
> (6t) ||| @
> 25.7 ---@ ||| @ 47 turns
> (6t) ||| @
> 32.2 ---@ ||| @
> (6t) ||| @
> 38.6 ---@ ||| @
> (79t) ||| @
> cross ,-' ||| '--, cross link
> link '-, ||| ,--' between halves
> (76t) ||| @
> 216.6 --@ ||| @
> (15t) ||| @ 46 turns
> 232.7 --@ ||| @
> (15t) ||| @
> 248.7 --' ||| '---100.8V
>
> Since the taps are to allow me to reconnect to reduce pack volts
> by removing 12V modules (as the pack gets old), should I allow for
> 108 and 132V as well?
This transformer has a useful number of taps as-is. You may not need to
rewind it at all.
If it was originally wound for 72vdc (with two diodes in a full-wave
center-tapped arrangement, then for 144v, all you need to do is connect
a bridge rectifer across the ends. You can then adjust the output
voltage and current with the primary taps in 6-turn increments.
For lower output voltages, you can go back to the full-wave center-tap
configuration, but reduce the primary turns as needed to get the desired
output voltage. A transformer can usually handle up to 20% more than
rated voltage on any given winding before the core starts to saturate
and draw excessive current. It wouldn't surprise me if the existing
primary is wound for 277vac nominal, or 277 x 1.2 = 332vac peak.
I'd try it as-is before going to the expense of rewinding it. Run the
transformer no-load for a few hours with progressively less turns in the
primary until the core starts to get hot (an indication that the volts
per turn is getting too high).
> I was expecting to find the same number of secondary turns on each
> half. Should I maintain the offset ratio of secondary turns?
Like a toroid, what counts as a 'turn' is anything that goes thru the
hole in the center. Even though you list 46 and 47 turns, you will
probably find that the wires are arranged so each half goes thru the
center exactly the same number of times.
> The primary was wound in approximately 3.5mm OD wire... which gives
> around 9.5mm2. This is is capable according to my cable sizing guide
> of around 50 Amps, although the input rating of the charger is only
> 15A. Assuming that it was deliberately over sized (due to its age),
> what size wire should I specify to the winding shop?
When you have only a few wires in open air, they can handle more
current. When you bundle dozens of them together in a transformer core,
you have to run a lower current density. The usual current density in a
transformer is 600-1000 circular mils per amp (1000 circular mils =
0.0319" diameter).
3.5mm diameter is about #7 AWG or #9 SWG, which is 20820 circular mils,
which can carry 29.7 amps at 700 cm/amp. So you're right; this is a
pretty conservative wire size.
> The secondary was wound in flat aluminium strap, as wide as the coils (note
> I didn't say as wide as the former, since it doesn't have one yet). The
> local winders will not have flat strap, so they are likely to want to use
> round or rectangular wire. Since this is nominally a 3.6kVa transformer,
> the nominal output current at 96V (lowest tap, sizing wire to suit) is
> 37.5A, although the peak currents will be higher. So part two of what size
> wire, how many mm2 should they use on the output? (if you know the size in
> gauge, AWG or SWG, I should be able to find a conversion to mm2, but please
> specify the standard you are using).
>
> I am going to make new formers for them to wind on to using insulation
> panel for the ends, and PCB fibreglass sheet (with the copper removed) as
> the inside box, epoxy resin glued together.
>
> Any and all comments welcome.
>
> Thanks
>
> James Massey
--
"Never doubt that a small group of committed people can change the
world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has!" -- Margaret Meade
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sorry to hear this Mark,
Lawson is a really great guy and has done some nice EVs over the years
including building an EV for the Governor of South Carolina and working with
local high schools in the state on their EV projects. He's made a big impact
on the EV movement in the Southeastern US.
Within the past year he has also been doing work on his hybrid Insight and a
'93 Metro conversion.
Lawson's been a big supporter of the NEDRA Power of DC and both him and Mark
traveled to our race last year.
I will keep him in my prayers.
Chip Gribben
NEDRA Webmaster
http://www.nedra.com
http://www.powerofdc.com
On 3/9/04 9:29 PM, "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> From: "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 11:04:17 -0500
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: OT: Fellow EV'er Needs Help
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> Please pray for Lawson Huntley a friend of mine. He was diagnosed with
> terminal Leukemia. We are hoping for a miracle, for God to heal him.
>
> For notes of encouragement, he's at P.O. Box 1025, Monroe, NC 28111
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> Thanks, Mark
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
i was thinking of using a chevy s-10 trany(as adapters are already desinged
and such) but then with what others had said i started thinking what would
be the smallest lightest 2wd rear drive trany
its going in a subaru Brat (just for refernce)
here are the ones i was thinking about.
BMW 2002 trany.
early Mazda rx-7 5 speed.
mazda miata 5 speed.
nissan,Datsun 510 or z car trany
any guesses.
weight is my main consern.
_________________________________________________________________
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http://special.msn.com/bcentral/loudclear.armx
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Folks,
I noticed you mentioned Reno, there are a couple more of us EV folks
here too. Two of us work at the"U" here. I Have 5 EVs myself and I am
also running a EV bus as an outreach project for the Physics Department.
I would like to know any other EV folks in Reno. Bill
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> > Add about 1" of styro foam insulation and it will stay warm for a day or
> > so. Then as long as yo drive it every day, your range will stay up near
> > your warm weather range.
>
> Mmm... Unfortunately there is no space for insulation on the Prizm pack,
> and the bottom is both steel and right under the car (in the airflow).
My pack hangs below my truck also, the styrofoam just makes it hang 1"
lower, no big deal. I put all of the foam outside the battery box.
Pack the foam on the outside, if there is no room inside.(outside the
interior, but inside fender wells etc.) If you can't reach somewhere
with foam sheets, try using spray on expanding foam.
--
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The problem with the world is stupidity. Not saying there should be a
capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the
safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You might consider a VW transaxle. Adapters are easy to get, and one
item replaces transmission, driveshaft, and differential.
Does the Subaru have IRS? If not, you'd have to graft that on too.
On Tue, 2004-03-09 at 21:18, brian G wrote:
> i was thinking of using a chevy s-10 trany(as adapters are already desinged
> and such) but then with what others had said i started thinking what would
> be the smallest lightest 2wd rear drive trany
>
> its going in a subaru Brat (just for refernce)
>
> here are the ones i was thinking about.
>
> BMW 2002 trany.
> early Mazda rx-7 5 speed.
> mazda miata 5 speed.
> nissan,Datsun 510 or z car trany
>
> any guesses.
>
> weight is my main consern.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get business advice and resources to improve your work life, from bCentral.
> http://special.msn.com/bcentral/loudclear.armx
--
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The problem with the world is stupidity. Not saying there should be a
capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the
safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well...an enterprising individual could take a digital pager and change
the frequency to either something in the Ham band or one of the license
free freqs. I believe the protocols for these pagers are available in
the public domain. and you can pick them up cheap now, Electronics
Goldmine has them for $2 each. Just build an interface and transmitter.
This would handle the remote display portion. Transmitting a push
button signal back is trivial.
On Tue, 2004-03-09 at 19:24, Otmar wrote:
> This brings up something I would like to see for us hobbyists.
>
> Remember the Honda EV+ key fob remote? That was slick!
>
> I believe it was rated for 1000 foot range, had a display of battery
> state of charge and a precondition button. You could push this button
> 1/2 hour before you left (say from inside your home or office) and
> the car would preheat or precool using grid power.
>
> It's wireless communication that stumps me on this one. Does anyone
> know of a way to implement this in a small remote inexpensively.
>
> Does anyone know of a auto remote on the market now that receives information?
>
> I'd built one if I could work out the communication part in a simple manner.
--
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The problem with the world is stupidity. Not saying there should be a
capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the
safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
i had thought of that but heres the problem
a vw trans axel sits with the motor behind the rear axel. an don my subaru
there isnt much space there for a motor out the back. id like to keep it
looking relitivly origanal now if there was a way of mounting it so that the
vw trany say upsidedown so that the motoor was in front of the axel i would
be all four it.
oh and every subaru ever made late 50's to 04 are ifs irs.
From: Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: EV <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Best 2wd trany??
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 21:42:11 -0700
You might consider a VW transaxle. Adapters are easy to get, and one
item replaces transmission, driveshaft, and differential.
Does the Subaru have IRS? If not, you'd have to graft that on too.
On Tue, 2004-03-09 at 21:18, brian G wrote:
> i was thinking of using a chevy s-10 trany(as adapters are already
desinged
> and such) but then with what others had said i started thinking what
would
> be the smallest lightest 2wd rear drive trany
>
> its going in a subaru Brat (just for refernce)
>
> here are the ones i was thinking about.
>
> BMW 2002 trany.
> early Mazda rx-7 5 speed.
> mazda miata 5 speed.
> nissan,Datsun 510 or z car trany
>
> any guesses.
>
> weight is my main consern.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get business advice and resources to improve your work life, from
bCentral.
> http://special.msn.com/bcentral/loudclear.armx
--
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The problem with the world is stupidity. Not saying there should be a
capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the
safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
_________________________________________________________________
Frustrated with dial-up? Lightning-fast Internet access for as low as
$29.95/month. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200360ave/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
FM pagers to notify you when you car is being broken into (why??) are
available, such as
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-aJFXul2i7yt/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?i=041CM2500
which can send 6 different 'zone' (SOC) signals.
I never saw the EV+, let alone the matching key fob. It sounds like the
perfect consumer accessory... getting down to fob size is the challenge.
Otmar wrote:
This brings up something I would like to see for us hobbyists.
Remember the Honda EV+ key fob remote? That was slick!
I believe it was rated for 1000 foot range, had a display of battery
state of charge and a precondition button. You could push this button
1/2 hour before you left (say from inside your home or office) and
the car would preheat or precool using grid power.
It's wireless communication that stumps me on this one. Does anyone
know of a way to implement this in a small remote inexpensively.
Does anyone know of a auto remote on the market now that receives information?
I'd built one if I could work out the communication part in a simple manner.
_________
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak
1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
http://www.eeevee.com
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--- Begin Message ---
Flip the ring gear and it will run backwards, then you can have the
motor in front of the tranny. They do this all the time with sand rails.
On Tue, 2004-03-09 at 22:04, brian G wrote:
> i had thought of that but heres the problem
> a vw trans axel sits with the motor behind the rear axel. an don my subaru
> there isnt much space there for a motor out the back. id like to keep it
> looking relitivly origanal now if there was a way of mounting it so that the
> vw trany say upsidedown so that the motoor was in front of the axel i would
> be all four it.
>
> oh and every subaru ever made late 50's to 04 are ifs irs.
>
>
> >From: Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >To: EV <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Subject: Re: Best 2wd trany??
> >Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 21:42:11 -0700
> >
> >You might consider a VW transaxle. Adapters are easy to get, and one
> >item replaces transmission, driveshaft, and differential.
> >Does the Subaru have IRS? If not, you'd have to graft that on too.
> >
> >On Tue, 2004-03-09 at 21:18, brian G wrote:
> > > i was thinking of using a chevy s-10 trany(as adapters are already
> >desinged
> > > and such) but then with what others had said i started thinking what
> >would
> > > be the smallest lightest 2wd rear drive trany
> > >
> > > its going in a subaru Brat (just for refernce)
> > >
> > > here are the ones i was thinking about.
> > >
> > > BMW 2002 trany.
> > > early Mazda rx-7 5 speed.
> > > mazda miata 5 speed.
> > > nissan,Datsun 510 or z car trany
> > >
> > > any guesses.
> > >
> > > weight is my main consern.
> > >
> > > _________________________________________________________________
> > > Get business advice and resources to improve your work life, from
> >bCentral.
> > > http://special.msn.com/bcentral/loudclear.armx
> >--
> >+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> >The problem with the world is stupidity. Not saying there should be a
> >capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the
> >safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Frustrated with dial-up? Lightning-fast Internet access for as low as
> $29.95/month. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200360ave/direct/01/
--
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The problem with the world is stupidity. Not saying there should be a
capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the
safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How do you define "can"?
Somewhere out there is an engineer who made the thing and could
undoubtedly make a custom eprom to produce this profile, or at least the
15/20 duty cycle. The 3 Ahr overcharge can't be determined as the Zivan
has no Ahr counter.
But... as owner/end-user of a Zivan you can't program that in. In fact,
you can't really make many changes at all.
Don Cameron wrote:
... I was wondering, since the Zivan NG3 charger can
be programmed, can it be programmed to apply a constant current charge
to 100% charge, then repeating a cycle of charge for 15 seconds, then
rest for 20 seconds, until a 3 Ah overcharge was provided?
_________
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak
1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
http://www.eeevee.com
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--- Begin Message ---
For anyone that is interested in using pagers for a remote display, here
are complete instructions on how to do it including the required
hardware.
http://www.qsl.net/kb9mwr/projects/pager/plan.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: wireless e-meter remote
> FM pagers to notify you when you car is being broken into (why??) are
> available, such as
> http://www.crutchfield.com/S-aJFXul2i7yt/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?i=041CM2500
> which can send 6 different 'zone' (SOC) signals.
>
> I never saw the EV+, let alone the matching key fob. It sounds like the
> perfect consumer accessory... getting down to fob size is the challenge.
>
>
> Otmar wrote:
> >This brings up something I would like to see for us hobbyists.
> >Hi All;
Now I'll vote for that! That would be a great EV accessery, for sure,
if nothing else let ya know if it is charging! Finally, an answer to that
@#$% circuit breaker that waits til you go away, to trip! Voltage,
checkable, OK maybe a remote climate control, but let me know if I'm sttill
on charge.
Any of the List electronic garus come up with a cheepo production thing,
bet ya he could EVen make a buck, selling them to us?!
> >It's wireless communication that stumps me on this one. Does anyone
> >know of a way to implement this in a small remote inexpensively.
> >Yeah, Me too If I knew how to do it, would be a done deal!
My two amps worth
Bob
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--- Begin Message ---
Joe drew up a "Instrument Amp circuit"
I built it and we tested it.
It can track a Nickel on a 16 inch lever arm.
Yea a 1000 lbs sensor can track a tenth of a lb.
So... the Dyno can read back 1/10 of ft/lbs reading with fair accuracy.
Data for tonight is 148 amps on a 9" will make 19.7 ftlbs of force at
430.5 RPM. This is 0.121 ftlbs per amp. It looks like we are going to
find a LOT of Ftlbs, quite a bit more than most folks expect.
Torque compounding is evident at from 90 amp to 150 amps. The torque per
amp doubles.
More data as we get it.
Need more automation, and LOTS more AMPS!!!
Progress is being made...
--
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Otmar wrote:
> It's wireless communication that stumps me on this one. Does anyone
> know of a way to implement this in a small remote inexpensively?
> I'd built one if I could work out the communication part in a
> simple manner.
Oh, come now. It's not that hard.
You can buy a cordless phone for $19.95; that will provide a 2-way
communications channel.
Digikey sells a variety of Melixis, TI-RFiD, and Linx Technologies brand
RF modules, ranging from $7 to $50 each; a complete development kit (2
transmitters, 2 receivers, antennas, and everything needed to send
serial data for $113-$195.
For an E-meter, you could wire a crystal oscillator module to the serial
output as a transmitter (serial data controls its Enable output) as a
transmitter, and a consumer AM or FM receiver to receive the data.
--
"Never doubt that a small group of committed people can change the
world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has!" -- Margaret Meade
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tuesday, March 9, 2004, at 11:00 AM, Jim Coate wrote:
As something I always wanted for my EV, I'm working on making a
wireless
remote for the e-meter (Link-10)... and I got to wondering if anyone
else would be interested in such while I'm at it? The idea is to have a
small box to carry around that shows the same info the meter display
shows... that way can be sure the breaker hasn't tripped, check the
status of an opportunity charge, etc. Basically as a security blanket
to
know that the charge is progressing well without having to keep running
outside.
This is a fun idea. I started free-associating as soon as I read the
message. Here's what fell out of my brain.
To be really useful it would need to have pretty good range. Probably
more than the average key fob or garage door opener. I'd want to know
what's happening in the parking lot from my office.
Peter's idea of using a pager is an excellent one. Just make it a real
pager, and put it on your paging service. Turn off the buzzer and the
alarm, and have the car page you every 10 minutes or so with the status.
Getting the car to page you is left as an exercise for the reader, but
I imagine something involving an old laptop computer and a cell phone
modem cable would work. Or, possibly one could hack up something with
a two-way pager. If you have Wi-Fi access at the car, then the car can
send an email to a pager gateway.
Then there's private paging systems, which are advertised as having a
range of up to two miles. That ought to reach my office! Command
Communications makes a base station with two dry-contact "alarm" inputs
that automatically trigger a page. Here's a web page:
http://www.connectworld.net/cgi-bin/iec/COM0023 . No monthly fees!
Commtech Wireless makes another one called the MAXpage:
http://www.commtechwireless.com/pages/products/desktop.php .
The SmartSynch CreataLink looks like the guts from one of these, ready
to integrate into your project.
http://www.smartsynch.com/telemetry/creatalink.htm
And hey - if you can run a power cord out to your car, maybe you can
run a phone line too! Then you can do all sorts of stuff. For
example, the Circuit Cellar Tele-Alert project.
http://www.circuitcellar.com/library/ccofeature/petruzzellis1099/
index.asp
Or a full-on environmental monitoring system with a voice synthesizer
in it, like the Sensaphone. http://www.smarthome.com/7005.html
I think I'm done babbling now.
_________
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak
1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
http://www.eeevee.com
Later,
Doug
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org
--- End Message ---
