EV Digest 3444
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: melted trojan 105
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Solar powered car
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Organic 'radical' Battery, NiMH capacity, fast recharge...
by "Andy Harris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Solar powered car
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Solar powered car
by "bobrice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Fast charge/discharge battery
by Alan Batie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Solar powered car
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: Solar powered car
by "Andre Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: IUI and IU charging algorithms
by "Jamie Marshall \(GAMES\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) EV Grin is back!
by Michael Hoskinson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) titling services?
by Derrick J Brashear <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Saab 96 EV ?
by "Michael Jaross" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Fast charge/discharge battery
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: melted trojan 105
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
15) RE: melted trojan 105
by David Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Free donor - Porsche 924 in Snohomish, WA
by JD & Heather <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: melted trojan 105
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Solar powered car
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
19) Online BEV Information. Re:Solar powered car
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Controller isoaltion (Re: ACPropulsion combo on eBay)
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Unsubscribe
by "Dean Tryon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Controller isoaltion (Re: ACPropulsion combo on eBay)
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) unsubscribe
by "" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Controller isoaltion (Re: ACPropulsion combo on eBay)
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Solar powered car
by "Jon \"Sheer\" Pullen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Base load pollution and charging EVs
by Matt Trevaskis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: titling services?
by "" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Controller isoaltion
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: melted trojan 105
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: Solar powered car
by Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Ok, I got the relays, now I need the fuses (battery monitor, take
.1)
by Chris Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) Re: Solar powered car - amorphous film
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
33) Prizm pack drop this weekend, Baltimore MD.
by Chris Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
All the comments about cold creep and loose connections have been
accurate. However, the only sure long term preverntive is DON'T use the
studs on universal posts. You can keep tightening them all you
want. Eventually, the stud will pull completely out of the lead. If you
are stuck with these posts, cut off the useless studs and invest in
automotive clamp type cable ends. Get the right size for your cable, and
properly crimp them on - none of these wussy emergency clip on jobs.
Mike Brown
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
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--- Begin Message ---
How about the part where he says his electric bill spiked
dramatically? !!!!?????!!!!
Shari Prange
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
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Clark Ward Jr wrote:
> The car I want to convert (saving money for components) is an
> old Porsche 914, which I have seen done several times.
Yes, there have been a number of good 914 EV conversions. As with any
old car, just make sure it is basically in good shape, and that you like
the car.
> but charging off the grid at night has got to be cheaper than
> buying all that gas!
Right again. However, don't assume that you will save money overall with
an EV. The fuel (electricity) is much cheaper than gasoline. But unless
you get everything "right" the first time, there is a substantial (and
expensive) learning curve. For example, most beginner "murder" their
first set of batteries, or cheap out on things that turn out to cost
them more in the long run.
> How great a difference does having 144VDC vice 120VDC in your
> battery pack make in acceleration?
Battery voltage by itself does not matter. Voltage is like saying "how
tall is your gas tank". It is a meaningless number unless you also know
the width and length.
What matters for range is the total energy it can deliver (volts times
amphours), and the battery pack's total weight. Energy/weight is your
figure of merit for range.
What matters for accelleration is total battery pack voltage times
maximum battery current. It's not usually the batteries that limit the
max current; it's your motor controller. Most controllers have a battery
current limit, so your figure of merit is total pack voltage times
controller current limit.
Voltage only matters for range and accelleration when people take the
*same* EV (with its existing motor and controller) and add batteries.
Sure, this increases the voltage; but the extra range and accelleration
came from having more total batteries on-board.
--
"Never doubt that a small group of committed people can change the
world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has!" -- Margaret Meade
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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----- Original Message -----
From: Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: Solar powered car
> How about the part where he says his electric bill spiked
> dramatically? !!!!?????!!!!
> Hi Shari;
MINE didn't, oh maybe a few bux, but hardly noticable @400plus miles a
week.When it gets warmer and the E- HEATING season ends!
Bob
> Shari Prange
> Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
> http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
>
--- End Message ---
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http://neasia.nikkeibp.com/wcs/leaf?CID=onair/asabt/news/299678
"NEC Corp has developed a battery that can be recharged only
in 30 seconds, company sources said. Called an organic radical
battery, it can be recharged to the same level of power as that
stored in nickel-hydrogen cells, which are widely used in digital
cameras, portable MD players and other electronic devices"
...
"The battery can also discharge power in a short time, making
it useful in applications requiring a large amount of power."
--
Alan Batie ______ alan.batie.org Me
alan at batie.org \ / www.qrd.org The Triangle
PGPFP DE 3C 29 17 C0 49 7A \ / www.pgpi.com The Weird Numbers
27 40 A5 3C 37 4A DA 52 B9 \/ spamassassin.taint.org NO SPAM!
To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we
are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic
and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public.
-Theodore Roosevelt, 26th US President (1858-1919)
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Jim Coate wrote:
By staying on the grid, you get to use the utility as a giant storage
battery. That means you size the panels so that over the course of a entire
year you generate as much as you use. During the winter you end up buying
more than you make, but during the summer you sell more than you use so it
all balances out.
Only if your state has good yearly net-metering laws :^D
Feeding a daily commuter EV and your residence _and_ having it all ballance
out at the end of the year would take a whole lotta PV.
Roy LeMeur Olympia, WA
My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
_________________________________________________________________
Free up your inbox with MSN Hotmail Extra Storage! Multiple plans available.
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My BS meter is pegged all the way thru that article.
"The sun hit the moon, went through four feet of snow and still charged my
batteries," he said. "That's how good they are."
If the sun hits the moon he will have a lot bigger problems then charging
batteries or paying for gas.
I do not remember even getting a measurable voltage from my PV array during
a full moon, let alone any current.
The snow in California must be a lot less dense then what we get in
Wisconsin because an inch of snow will about shut off my array, even in full
sun, and 4 feet would be close to the structural limits of the mounting
system.
I could not find a date on the article but I would guess it is about 6 days
old. If not the best I can say is, he has no clue.
Thanks,
Andre' B. Clear Lake Wis.
----- Original Message -----
From: Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: Solar powered car
> > How about the part where he says his electric bill spiked
> > dramatically? !!!!?????!!!!
> > Hi Shari;
>
> MINE didn't, oh maybe a few bux, but hardly noticable @400plus miles a
> week.When it gets warmer and the E- HEATING season ends!
>
> Bob
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--- Begin Message ---
DOH! You are right, of course. I was not confused about the workings
of the human eye, I'm just caught up in my little computer graphics
world.
I'm used to thinking of light as an a combination of discreet red,
green, and blue values. Its very counter-intuitive to me that red light
plus green light doesn't just look yellow, it actually combines somehow
into yellow.
The fact that this is the same both visually and physically as a source
that is yellow to start with is very odd. But it does make for color
TV, so I'm in!
-Jamie
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On
> Behalf Of Lee Hart
> Sent: Friday, April 02, 2004 5:51 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: IUI and IU charging algorithms
>
> Jamie Marshall (GAMES) wrote:
> > You can't make a filter that responds only to yellow. Yellow light
> > is red and green together. You would have to double your circuit,
> > have two filter-phototransistor setups, one for red and one for
> > green. When both are activated, you know you have yellow light.
>
> You are confusing the limited response of the human eye with the
actual
> physics.
>
> There *is* true yellow light; it has a wavelength of 580-600
nanometers.
> Yellow LEDs produce a single narrow band of wavelengths somewhere in
> this region. Their output at red (635-660 nm) and green (500-560 nm)
> wavelengths is negligible.
>
> You *can* have a yellow filter; it is one that passes only 580-600 nm,
> and blocks other wavelengths.
>
> The human eye only has three color receptors; for red, green, and
blue.
> These receptors are very broad-banded; the red and green receptors
also
> respond to yellow light. We only see yellow indirectly; a pure yellow
> LED happens to excite the red and green receptors about equally.
> --
> "Never doubt that a small group of committed people can change the
> world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has!" -- Margaret Meade
> --
> Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377
leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Whew! Long time coming. I took apart the "D" (a 1970 Citroen ID) at
the end of January to try to fix a vibration problem in the drive
train. My initial impression was that the adapter hub was not right,
so I sent it back to Randy to get it checked. It turns out that the
adapter was ok; it was the end of the motor shaft itself that was
warped/bent/out of round. Since the taperlock adapter was quite tight
on the motor shaft, I thought I might try truing it up myself. So I
set up a jig with hinged 2x4's, a file on the top 2x4 and a screw to
separate them gradually. I managed to shave off the high side of the
shaft and still get the hub to fit on tightly. When I put the flywheel
back on, I could not detect any wobble with a dial indicator, compared
to 20 thouh before the fix.
It took me until last night to get her back together and out for a
drive. Wow! Smooth and quiet, revved right up in 3rd gear with only
a barely detectable vibration. Now all I have to do is get the rest
of the 12 volt wiring checked out (I changed a few things while I had
the thing ripped apart) and put back the hood and front quarter panels
and I'm on the road again.
See Mike. See Mike Grin.
Mike Hoskinson
Edmonton
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I finally have paperwork for my car, it had a salvage title in California
(not salvage-reconstructed) which makes things a little more fun for
getting it registered in Pennsylvania, but not much worse than what it
was.
Anyhow, I'm wonder if any of you know of companies that sell a "here's the
paperwork and a pile of money, get a reconstructed title for my car"
service?
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Alan Batie wrote:
> "NEC Corp has developed a battery that can be recharged only
> in 30 seconds, company sources said. Called an organic radical
> battery, it can be recharged to the same level of power as that
> stored in nickel-hydrogen cells, which are widely used in digital
> cameras, portable MD players and other electronic devices"
> "The battery can also discharge power in a short time, making
> it useful in applications requiring a large amount of power."
Sounds like Marketing describing a supercapacitor to a gullible
journalist.
--
"Never doubt that a small group of committed people can change the
world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has!" -- Margaret Meade
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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<<When installing new batteries for the first time, all the battery terminals
should be torque to manufacture specifications, about every 5 miles, until
they do not loss too much torque.
Then check them once a week and finally monthly.>>
Isn't that what belleville (sic?) washers are for? Well, I guess that's one more
argument for VRLA - don't know what the metal is on Hawkers, but they don't
need this kind of maintanence!
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They are brass, but they still should be checked on occasion. Say every 6
months or so. Brass is a lot better than lead, but it can still creep a
bit.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 2:27 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: melted trojan 105
>
> <<When installing new batteries for the first time, all the battery
> terminals
> should be torque to manufacture specifications, about every 5 miles, until
> they do not loss too much torque.
>
> Then check them once a week and finally monthly.>>
>
> Isn't that what belleville (sic?) washers are for? Well, I guess that's
> one more
> argument for VRLA - don't know what the metal is on Hawkers, but they
> don't
> need this kind of maintanence!
--- End Message ---
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My question is what's the deal with the firetruck behind the gate?
John David
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Perhaps. When I dropped the pack on the Prizm (9 years old) every bolt
on the 50 batteries were nice and tight. They did have a bit of lock
paint, but there was no evidence of them being loose.
Then again the Prizm is a high voltage low current pack. One will never
draw more than 100 amps thru the batteries anyway, with average being
30-50 amps.
Chris
David Brandt wrote:
They are brass, but they still should be checked on occasion. Say every 6
months or so. Brass is a lot better than lead, but it can still creep a
bit.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 2:27 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: melted trojan 105
<<When installing new batteries for the first time, all the battery
terminals
should be torque to manufacture specifications, about every 5 miles, until
they do not loss too much torque.
Then check them once a week and finally monthly.>>
Isn't that what belleville (sic?) washers are for? Well, I guess that's
one more
argument for VRLA - don't know what the metal is on Hawkers, but they
don't
need this kind of maintanence!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roy LeMeur wrote:
>Feeding a daily commuter EV and your residence _and_ having it all ballance
>out at the end of the year would take a whole lotta PV.
Don't bet on it.
All depends on the specific circumstances (house and EV use). Check out these
statistics at our house...
Average home electrical usage: 10kWh/day (no air conditioner, CFL lighting everywhere)
Average EV electrical usage: 5 kWh/day (22 mile commute/day with top up at work)
Total usage: 15 kWh/day
We have a 19-panel PV array which was sized around a Sunny Boy 2.5kW inverter. I
think this qualifies as a small system. In theory it should produce an average of 15
kWh/day (6 hours average sun * 2.5 kW). In practice, we fired it up last winter and
it started producing 5 kWh/day. Now, in April, it's already up to 15. What will it
be in summer? I don't know. But real-world performance seems to be right on-par with
theoretical.
Total PV supply: 15 kWh/day
This small system should cover ALL my electricity. And we don't live like hermits in
a cave, either. We have two kids, TVs, computers, an aquarium, etc.. Even an
electric lawn mower. ;-)
Richard
1981 Jet Electrica
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/474.html
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So, Today I was reading up on fusion at an online encyclopedia resource,
which is GNU Copyrighted, CopyLeft, Open Source, ie. Free for EVeryone!
"Wiki wiki" means "super fast" in the Hawaiian language, and it is the
speed of creating and updating pages that is one of the defining aspects
of wiki technology. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiki
Anyway, Not trying to move the list somewhere else, Just pointing
everyone to a "High Traffice" Internet Resource that WE CAN CONTROL,
Or Influince Anyway. Unlike http://www.evtech.org/phpwiki/index.php
The other Wiki that has been mentioned here before, perhaps we might
consider working on a project that is more likely to be seen by others.
Anyway, I got to wondering what they had to say about BEVs, so
I ended up finding some interesting stuff, here's the journey:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicles
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automobile
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas-electric_hybrid_engine
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hybrid_electric_vehicle
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hybrid_car
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_motor
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Generator_(device)
FINALLY ! ! A not to shabby BEV page ! !
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_vehicle
Anyway, I intend to spend some time looking over the hybrid and ev
pages and seeding other pages with the link for the BEV page.
Some of you may want to visit the "Motor" or "Battery" pages to
add a sprinkle of your EV-influinced knowledge for all to share.
Anyway,
L8r
Ryan
PS.
Brad Waddell wrote:
This story is about a solar powered EV - can a solar panel really
collect enough power to run this vehicle once a day? thanks.
http://www.lodinews.com/articles/2004/04/01/news/03_solar_040401.txt
That story makes _ME_ sound like a PV and BEV Pessimist, <Grin>.
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Lee Hart wrote:
And why isn't whatever this is also a problem for hobbyists
using non-isolated chargers?
Because (almost) all hobby EVs use separate chargers and motor
controllers. The charger can be isolated. The motor controllers are
never isolated.
Siemens and MES-DEA AC inverters are all isolated. Traction pack
is floating vs chassis. This is perhaps because they are not hobby EV
product and OEMs have good reason to require isolation.
Isolation hardware sure adds some cost but as I mentioned numerous
times, silicon cost is a small fraction of the total product price.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
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Lee Hart wrote:
>> The motor controllers are never isolated.
Victor Tikhonov wrote:
> Siemens and MES-DEA AC inverters are all isolated. Traction pack
> is floating vs chassis.
Wrong context, Victor. You are thinking about the controller being
isolated from ground. Pretty much *all* controllers do this.
This thread was talking about isolation between the batteries and the AC
line and/or traction motor. No motor controller (including the Siemens
and MES-DEA) has isolation between the motor and batteries. It would
require a *big* transformer, add cost, lower efficiency, and be
pointless.
The point made earlier was that AC Propulsion uses their motor
controller as a battery charger. Since motor controllers have no
input-output isolation, this means they have a non-isolated "charger".
a charger that isolates the batteries from the AC line. hobby EV
> product and OEMs have good reason to require isolation.
>
> Isolation hardware sure adds some cost but as I mentioned numerous
> times, silicon cost is a small fraction of the total product price.
--
"Never doubt that a small group of committed people can change the
world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has!" -- Margaret Meade
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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Victor Tikhonov wrote:
>
> Lee Hart wrote:
>
> >>And why isn't whatever this is also a problem for hobbyists
> >>using non-isolated chargers?
> >
> > Because (almost) all hobby EVs use separate chargers and motor
> > controllers. The charger can be isolated. The motor controllers are
> > never isolated.
>
> Siemens and MES-DEA AC inverters are all isolated. Traction pack
> is floating vs chassis. This is perhaps because they are not hobby EV
> product and OEMs have good reason to require isolation.
>
> Isolation hardware sure adds some cost but as I mentioned numerous
> times, silicon cost is a small fraction of the total product price.
>
> --
> Victor
> '91 ACRX - something different
Umm Victor and Lee I think we have a conceptual problem here.
Lee is right, the traction pack and a DC drive are NEVER isolated from
each other, and Niether is the Siemans.
The Siemans is Insulated from the chassis and the motor is insulated
from Chassis, and so are all the drive electronics. Even the Dc to Dc is
isolated from the main pack giving
Isolations and insulation between the House 12 volts and the motive
pack. This is what I think Victor means.
But Lee, most of us "Advanced" DC drive folks have insulation from the
drive pack to the house 12 volts. That's why we have little Dc/DC
converters for our Rs-232 E-meters. Our only fault point is the Carbon
build up in the motor case. This is solved with a seprate contactor in
the neg side if the motor leads and the Battery main contactor in the
controller positive lead. So.. when the drive is OFF There are no
possible leaks to chassis from the pack that are not faults inside the
traction pack to chassis(Fault by definition)
Being loose with the concepts Victor, implies that the input or the
output of the Siemans drive is transformer isolated from the drive
motor, which it is NOT!. It is well insulated. Touching a exposed
conductor in the drive motor and the Neg side of your traction pack at
the same time will result in a shock, If the drive motor is being
driven.
Adding a charger, is not as simple as it sounds. The ACP guys used the
Stator windings as the Boost/buck inductor in thier "20Kw" integrated
charger. Nice, but it coupleds line currents into the rotor of the
induction motor, this has to be insolated from the tranny shaft or else
the car drive train would go "hot" to the Ac grid. I have heard the the
motor would want to spin also, when charging. Opps! I was handed the
insulator "plate" from a ACP 175Kw drive once. it was a piece of high
density Fiber board, AKA "Masonite"
I almost died laughing.... 200 Hp through this???? That team rebuildt
thier insulator out of electrical Laminate grade material, Which can be
order in some really impressive ratings and specs.... We use the good
stuff in the PFC chargers as Torroid supports, and our own fuse
holders... You can get some REALLY good stuff!. Anyways the stuff the
Team used to replace the "designed by the White coats" units was about 1
magnitude stronger. And cost about $50 of material. So using the
induction motor for the charger boost element can have unforseen draw
backs... Doing a purpose designed charger, allows for much better
magnetics designs, smaller packinging,and a inductor that won't drive
way on you under full charge power.
Still the best charger I have seen is the Brusa Water cooled 3800 watt
unit that Victor showed me last year. I was and still am impressed as to
it's functions and featurea and small water cooled packaging. I build
one that is air cooled occupys about 10 times the volume and makes 4
times the power. And cost less. With water cooling and some new tricks I
bet I could get a PFC30 to make 12Kw, but that's non Isolated. Ah to
have the time and money to compete with a Billion Dollar company....
--
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
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> Jim Coate wrote:
>
> >By staying on the grid, you get to use the utility as a giant storage
> >battery. That means you size the panels so that over the course of a
entire
> >year you generate as much as you use. During the winter you end up buying
> >more than you make, but during the summer you sell more than you use so
it
> >all balances out.
>
> Only if your state has good yearly net-metering laws :^D
>
> Feeding a daily commuter EV and your residence _and_ having it all
ballance
> out at the end of the year would take a whole lotta PV.
Hmm. Let's work out how much it'd take, shall we? (pretend I live in SoCal,
where the sun is beating down fast and furious)
I use about 1000 kwh a month. [Yes, I know, shame on me]
This averages out to 2.7kw for every production hour. (since solar cells
don't put out much at night)
Solar cells put out, on a really good day, about 40 wh a sq foot
so I'd need about 70 sq feet.
Thta's only 10' x 7' of PV - shucks, that's less than half my roof...
granted, the panels are somewhat pricy, but if _everyone_ bought them,
wouldn't they get cheap in a hurry the same way that other types of silicon
(RAM, CPU, power FETs, etc) have gotten cheap in a hurry because everybody
was buying them?
Am I oversimplifying when I say 'it's just sand'?
S.
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The usual comparisons that I have read of EV 'emissions' versus
fossil-fuelled vehicles, considering the source of the electricity, seem to
simply compare on the basis of the mix of electricity generation plant in a
region or country and the *average* pollution (e.g. grams of CO2 per kWh)
associated with each.
While obviously having to make a weighted sum corresponding to the different
generating fuels used, does anyone know of a publication, or just raw
figures, for base load versus peak power generation? I'm assuming that the
base load plant from which our EVs draw most of their power (can) operate
more efficiently while creating less pollution than a peak plant?
Another way to ask the question is how do base load power station emissions
compare to peak generating plant?
My supposition is that the overall reductions in most pollutants that are
oft quoted from using EVs may actually be greater if we were to only
consider base load plant? (For those countries like the UK that use quite a
mix of sources)
Another related question is would the widespread use of EVs (and hence
higher power consumption overnight) allow more efficient use of base load
plant that could mean no net increase in fuel used or emissions created,
whether or not peak time energy exporting from vehicles is employed. I
think that the industry refer to this as "system demand factor" - less
variability between base load periods and peak periods.
Has _base load_ capacity in a region been compared to the requirements for
widespread EV charging overnight?
A couple of threads touched on this briefly:
www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/msg04094.html
www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/msg04435.html
Matt
1999 Peugeot Scoot'Elec 21,000km
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Here, do it yourself...
http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/pdotforms/mv_forms/mv-426B.pdf
otherwise, I've read good reviews about titles unlimited, but have no personal
experience with them. www.titlesunlimitedinc.com
Stay Charged!
Hump
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Derrick J Brashear
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 3:12 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: titling services?
>
>
> I finally have paperwork for my car, it had a salvage title in California
> (not salvage-reconstructed) which makes things a little more fun for getting
> it registered in Pennsylvania, but not much worse than what it was.
>
> Anyhow, I'm wonder if any of you know of companies that sell a "here's the
> paperwork and a pile of money, get a reconstructed title for my car"
> service?
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Rich Rudman wrote:
Victor Tikhonov wrote:
> Umm Victor and Lee I think we have a conceptual problem here.
Lee is right, the traction pack and a DC drive are NEVER isolated from
each other, and Niether is the Siemans.
The Siemans is Insulated from the chassis and the motor is insulated
from Chassis, and so are all the drive electronics. Even the Dc to Dc is
isolated from the main pack giving
Isolations and insulation between the House 12 volts and the motive
pack. This is what I think Victor means.
Almost. The motor case is NOT insulated from the chassis, in fact you're
suppose to ground the motor case. But, the stator windings are
insulated from the motor case, so in that sense the motor [feeding
power] *is* insulated from the chassy.
Being loose with the concepts Victor, implies that the input or the
output of the Siemans drive is transformer isolated from the drive
motor, which it is NOT!. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^^^
This is totally inaccurate impression Rich, I did not imply this.
You need to clarify "from the drive motor" you mean motor's windings
or motor's case.
The Traction pack is directly connected to the inverter power stage
which is directly connected to the motor winding.
But all of above is isolated from everything else including
the motor case. Yo WILL get shock if you touch the battery
and the motor winding terminal, but it is impossible since
the motor terminals are sealed under cover on the motor side
as well as on the inverter side. You can safely touch any
battery pack end and the chassy. The drive system is connected
to the chassy through I think 500k to 1M bleeding resistor
preventing the pack/power stage/motor winding network
from floating far away from the ground. It is considered
isolated for chock preventing purposes.
I did short numerous times negative or positive end of the
pack (so the power stage and so the motor windings) to the
chassy, no problem.
In my EV you may get shock by touching battery and chassy
only if you connect non-isolated instrumentation to the pack,
like grounded shunt driver circuit or something, but this is
unrelated to the topic.
The point is, if you block access to the battery terminals,
you can touch ANYTHING in my EV with both hands, it is fine.
Actually there is nothing to touch - no exposed bars or motor
terminals bolts.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
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Isn't that what belleville (sic?) washers are for? Well, I guess that's
one more
argument for VRLA - don't know what the metal is on Hawkers, but they don't
need this kind of maintanence!
Bellevilles are great on "L" posts. On universal posts, cold creep will
happen under ANY pressure, only the rate of creep will change.
Shari Prange
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
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--- "Jon \"Sheer\" Pullen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Solar cells put out, on a really good day, about 40 wh a sq foot
> Thta's only 10' x 7' of PV - shucks, that's less than half my roof...
> granted, the panels are somewhat pricy, but if _everyone_ bought
> them,
> wouldn't they get cheap in a hurry the same way that other types of
> silicon
> (RAM, CPU, power FETs, etc) have gotten cheap in a hurry because
> everybody
> was buying them?
>
> Am I oversimplifying when I say 'it's just sand'?
Nope, like one prof at the university (in another department) used to
say the whole EE department is conerned with creative ways of cooking
sand.
Then there are the new solar cells where they use flexible stainless
steel as a substrate, so you can shingle your roof with them and not
need special supporting infrastructure, and not worry about having hail
break them etc. (How they tie them together electrically to handle all
the current I'm not quite sure.) If those got cheap enough everybody
could have an excess capacity by doing their entire roofs (rooves?)
with them.
=====
. _______ Shawn T. Rutledge / KB7PWD [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(_ | |_) http://ecloud.org/ [EMAIL PROTECTED]
__) | | \______________________________________________
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway
http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
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Ok, I got the relays here for my super-monitoring tool. And it looks
like they will fit in the hollow of the battery with room to spare.
My plan now is to wire small resistors across the NO points on the relay
directly, then have wires going off to the poles of the battery (so two
batteries can be monitored with one relay) and two wires going off to
the sensor lines.
Question is what kind of really small fuse can I put in here? Preferably
something small; I will have a 5 amp load on the batteries with 12 volt
batteries. I suppose it's theoretically possible to somehow short the
pack (maybe) but that would require serious stupidity with the relays
engaged (at which point the relay would probably disintegrate if the
wire didn't first.
So:
1) What kind of in-line fuse should I use (7.5 amp, or 5 amp say)
2) What kind of wire should I be using (handle a 5 amp load, the lighter
the better)
Thanks!
Chris
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Shawn Rutledge wrote:
Then there are the new solar cells where they use flexible stainless
steel as a substrate, so you can shingle your roof with them and not
need special supporting infrastructure, and not worry about having hail
break them etc. (How they tie them together electrically to handle all
the current I'm not quite sure.) If those got cheap enough everybody
could have an excess capacity by doing their entire roofs (rooves?)
with them.
Augh yes, the "amorphous film" ie. Uni-Solar, or Texico Ovonics.
Why do they own all the "good stuff" and refuse to sell any of it?
This PV technology "Should" be much cheaper than the standard Silicon
based PV technology, That's one of it's advantages "as advertised".
Ironically though it's cost is just as high as the others, probably
because it can be when you have the market cornered. Amorphous PV
is also more durrable, flexable (for various applications), and it
works better in low light, like overcast and in northern locations.
Disclaimer:I haven't actually touched or tested amorphous film PV,
and other companies may be breaking into this market, and I don't
personally like Ovonics. So don't quote me here in any "real works".
L8r
Ryan
PS.
As great as they are, even these PV's on your car won't get you far.
But on your homes roof is a whole other story, hope they get cheap!
Search for "Flexible PhotoVoltaic" for about 30,800 matches.
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Ok, I'm planning on dropping the Prizm pack this weekend. Anyone
interested in assisting?
This will be an all-day project, so feel free to drop in to the house.
Email me for directions and the like and I will provide pizza. If EVADC
people come, I will even give people a check so I can finally *JOIN*
Chris
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