EV Digest 3848
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Who handles NEDRA tech questions for new builders????
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Woodburn 2004, Video
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Does cryogenic harding really work ??(was Re: Dog clutches)
by Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Dog clutches
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Does cryogenic harding really work ??(was Re: Dog clutches)
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Dog clutches
by richard ball <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) China's Initial Michelin Challenge Bibendum
by Lee Dekker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: advanced solar battery
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Chico EAA meeting Sat. Oct.16th
by "Chuck Alldrin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Odd Brake behavior questions
by Paul Wallace <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) 6-Volt vs. 8-volt Batteries
by "Patrick Maston" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) RE: 6-Volt vs. 8-volt Batteries
by "Adams, Lynn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Odd Brake behavior questions
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) RE: actuations of brake/reservoir size
by "Adams, Lynn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Woodburn...thanks for the show!!!!!!!!!!
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Back on the road with a T-Rex and E-meter question
by "Adams, Lynn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: 6-Volt vs. 8-volt Batteries
by "Adams, Lynn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Vacuum pump diode
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Rick, I'm glad you are inspired. Send me an off list email and I will try to
get you some more video that will further inspire you. Under contact info on
the top red bar on all the NEDRA pages www.nedra.com is this address for
tech support: [EMAIL PROTECTED] This is forwarded automatically to our
National Tech Director, Bill Dube, who is on this list. His direct email is:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Roderick Wilde
NEDRA President
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 9:51 PM
Subject: Who handles NEDRA tech questions for new builders????
Hi Everyone,
I'm getting into the process of elimination on various project ideas of
late. Who can I direct specific questions to regarding what qualifies a
vehicle to be classed one way or another?
My goal is to build some sort of two-wheeled vehicle that can be safely
riden and raced without getting the black flag during tech inspection at
the
first event I show up at.
I also have some questions about specific building techniques and
component
placement that I would like some reassurance on before I commit hard
earned
time, materials and hours of labor.
Just for those who may be wondering, I'm moving up the food chain from
ebikes. As fun and simple as they are to build and ride, they just won't
smoke the back tire. ;-))
It's all Bob Rice's fault!!!!! He had home movies of Woodburn and allowed
me
to make a copy of it while he was here visiting in Phoenix.
Thanks and regards,
Rick Pryor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2004 1:26 PM
Subject: Re: Woodburn 2004, Video
> Can I get a Video of the races/fireballs? That would be cool, I know my
5.7
> year old would clap. Let me know how much$$
> Mark E. Hanson
> 184 Vista Lane
> Fincastle, VA 24090
> 540-473-1248
> Hi Mark;
Give me a little time to slop some of my race stuff together on a VHS
tape I can send ya. I can fill up a 2 hour tape have yur kid cheering them
on or shutting down for bedtime!
Seeya
Bob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2004 12:29 AM
> Subject: Re: Woodburn 2004, My response to Rudman
>
>
> > Oh Boy....here we go again.....
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 2004 4:44 PM
> > Subject: Re: Woodburn 2004, My response to Rudman
> >
> >
> > > Well I had to wait quite a while to make this post as I needed to
check
> my
> > > facts before I posted unlike some folks who talk out their other
holes.
> I
> > > went to Oat for some facts on his California Poppy 914. He had just
> gotten
> > > back from the long way home from Woodburn. He's got quite a story.
Rich
> > > said: "And NO Otmar does NOT have the advance that we have. So he
CAN'T
> > pull
> > > as hard as we can up high." The facts Rich, Omar's advance is within
one
> > > degree of ours.
> > Really ????
> >
> > >
> > > Rich further stated: "Amps are NOT only thing that makes you move down
> the
> > > strip. Amps in a motor that is NOT pukeing fire balls and brush chunks
> > makes
> > > power." Rich, go back and do some research on Ed Rannberg's
Kawashocki.
> He
> > > had to put a shield on his endbell because the fireball was burning
his
> > leg
> > > when he was turning elevens. Of course he added extra insulation to
keep
> > it
> > > from backfiring. Rich also told me he had turned my rear motors down
to
> > 1300
> > > amps because he and Joe Smalley decided for me that they would not
> produce
> > > any more torque after 1300 amps. Well I just got off the phone with
Oat.
> > > Data point: At 1600 amps on his dual eight inch motors the rear tires
> > won't
> > > break loose on the street. At 1700 amps they do. On the strip he can
go
> up
> > > to 1800 to 1900 amps before breaking loose due to the extra adhesion
of
> > the
> > > track. At 1300 amps on the track Oat says his 60 foot time is 2.1
> seconds
> > > which is the same as my board scooter. At between 1800-1900 amps this
> > drops
> > > to 1.8 seconds. Better 60 foot time, better ET. End of argument on
amps,
> > > Rudman. When you can tell your behind from a hole in the ground then
we
> > will
> > > discuss real drag racing and real amps.
> >
> > Lets keep a couple things straight... Ot's motors are don't have stone
> > groves in them....Yours do.
> > If your motors could stand the amps of course they would make more
> > torque.
> > We found they could not. And backed off. Did you want me to vaporize
> > them??? Oh OK that's your job, I just have to fix them.
> > Also lets get it clear the I Have seen your back motors suck up 2000
> motor
> > amps. They arc like hell. The left side arcs Green the right side Arcs
> Blue.
> > The Gas guys at Bremerton came over and warned me about it. It was that
> bad.
> > You Blew them off, I took notes....
> > So much for 2000 amps.
> > And lets keep the north and and the South end of my Body out of this
> thread.
> >
> > >
> > > Rich further stated: "Look at your timing slips, and piece together
how
> > and
> > > where the back drives shine." Rich, I have looked at my time slips and
I
> > > know where the rear drives shine. As I have stated on may occasions on
> > this
> > > list that when the rear drive switches from series to parallel it is
> like
> > > nitrous. This is the only electric I have ever driven that will go
from
> 73
> > > mph to 98 mph in 5.1 seconds. If you hadn't disabled my
series/parallel
> > > switch without telling me I feel that run number one would have had a
> much
> > > greater mph than that slow 92 mph on stone cold batteries.
> > >
> > Rod We both expected to hit the track before Woodburn. I was going to
dial
> > in what you wanted at that time.
> > Sorry. That point I screwed up on. I could have sworn that I programmed
> > that back after we were done testing the side to side ballence of the
back
> > motors.
> >
> > > Rich went on with his ranting from his other end: "Do I have to show
you
> > > how....again! Or are you just going to melt all your motors to the
> > > ground....because you can." The rear motors have already been tested
to
> > 2000
> > > amps without melting. The only melting that occurred on "Gone Postal"
> was
> > on
> > > the original GE when a crewmember wired it as a shunt motor and melted
> the
> > > field windings.
> > That would NOT be me. Since I solved that issue.
> > >
> > > Rich also stated: "It was handed back to you with the best brush
> breakin
> > it
> > > ever had , on all the motors. Front and back. so... If the front drive
> was
> > > blown just how did you find that 300+ hp to jump to 98 Mph??
> > >
> > > The part about the brushes being well seated is very true. There is no
> > > substitute for miles put on under load. I will post pictures soon. The
> > front
> > > motor did not go away it just sizzled a lot at high RPMs. Someone
reset
> my
> > > tach shift light to 6500 rpms and I didn't notice it on the first run.
> > Also
> > > on the first run when I was still in series I did get a backfire from
> the
> > > rear. The rear brushes don't look quite as good as the fronts but they
> > only
> > > show about 20 to 25% facial arc damage. Typical for high amps can be
up
> to
> > > 50%. I'm sure that Dennis gets very little with his advance system. We
> > were
> > > no where near melting the motors down as Rich had eluded to. Suck
Amps!
> go
> > > quicker, turn it down go slower. As for me I'll just keep on sucking
> amps.
> > >
> > This is something we can agree on...
> >
> > > Roderick Wilde
> > > "Suck Amps EV Racing"
> > > www.suckamps.com
> > >
> > >
> > We both want to suck more amps. The more the merrier. But I know that
> > tossing out fire balls wrecks the motors, and wasted most of the power
> from
> > that amps point on up.
> > The point is to prepare the motors so they CAN and DO pull the big amps
> with
> > out Arcing.
> >
> > And Dennis has not used his brush movment stuff in months, and not at
all
> in
> > all this years bracket racing successes. He just uses it to dial in a
> locked
> > in brush angle. He only uses dynamic movment when he is Record hunting.
I
> > don't think he has made a attempt at a record setting run in years. He's
> go
> > his motor so Dialed that he doen't use any of his killer tricks to
Braket
> > race since that would make his run times less reliable.
> >
> > We could only Dream about having that much control over our motors.
> > So you break the motors, Rod
> > Some day I want to go fast.
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 2004-10-12 at 08:33, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I was told by a driveline shop to get my gears cryo'd after
> I went dropped by third transmission.
>
> Does cryogenic harding really work ??
I have no idea how well it would work for driveline components, but
Harley Davidson uses it extensively on their motorcycle engines.
I was once at a event where one of the companies that founded the cryo
process was exhibiting. They were handing out off the shelf cheap
disposible razors that they had treated. For me, cheap razors last
maybe a week before reaching the painfully dull stage. The freebie
razor was lost on a business trip eight months worth of use later, and
it was still as sharp as when I started using it.
Mark
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 21:46:06 -0700, Roderick Wilde <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>The advice I received from Autotech was to use a button on the
>shifter to blank the pot during shifting. This kit uses much larger
>shafts with closer ratio gears. It converts it to a six speed also.
>You mentioned a bus ring and pinion. This is a Corrado FWD transaxle.
>We already have the quaife diff installed.
Standard technique on a racing dog gearbox is to undercut each dog by
about a degree so that torque forces them fully engaged. This also
permits an extremely rapid shift. The technique involves pre-tensioning
the shifter with your foot or hand and then winging the kill switch to
cause a very brief interruption of torque. The same technique should work
with electric drive.
Can you program the controller for zero acceleration ramp? That would
seem vital for blanking the pot fast enough.
I can envision a very fast setup. A spring in the linkage strong enough
to effect the shift stores energy. As the shifter handle is pulled
against the spring, it hits a microswitch at the end of the travel which
interrupts power. The shift is then spring driven. A switch on the other
end (tranny side) of the spring restores power when the shift is finished.
This would not only be lightning fast, it would also guarantee the dogs
are fully engaged before power is re-applied.
John
---
John De Armond
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The next time you folks see one of these Cadillac Eldorados or Olds Tornados
notice the length of the hood. It was not a styling decision! The
transmission is in front of the differential and the motor is in front of
the transmission. Now go to www.suckamps.com and notice the distance from
the centerline of the front axles to the front of the vehicle. You will not
need a measuring device to tell you that it is not feasible in your wildest
imagination. It would be far easier to stuff an Allison V12 in a Nash
Metropolitan :-)
PS: For those not familiar with the famous Allison V12 engine there is a
nice picture of this 1710 cubic inch monster at:
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.geocities.com/whoppanz/Dsc01008.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.geocities.com/whoppanz/allison&h=680&w=1024&sz=75&tbnid=pFu1UL5r-MEJ:&tbnh=99&tbnw=149&start=1&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dallison%2BV12%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 6:51 AM
Subject: Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Clevenger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 11:20 PM
Subject: Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
That's would be a nice choice. I'm on a Caddy list where a guy is
running
11's with a souped up 500 and the stock tranny. This in a car that's
about
the same weight as GP.
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
> Maybe a dumb question, but could you use the GM 475 transaxle? I
believe
it
> lived behind 400 HP 455 Oldsmobile and 501 Cadillac engines.
> David C. Wilker Jr.
> USAF (RET)
winner WINNER WINNER...
Yea if we can find one....this would be really nice.
OK Rich, I'll sniff around here in CT , if one lays, unloved in a local
junkyard.Or the Bargain News Auto parts dept.
Bob
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 09:33:08 -0400, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>I was told by a driveline shop to get my gears cryo'd after
>I went dropped by third transmission.
>
>Does cryogenic harding really work ??
Yes, spectacularly. Several cycles between LN2 and about 300 degs works
even better.
John
---
John De Armond
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
how about an electric linear actuator for throw with
the same micro switch function as described ? this
would mean shift function could be made from a
tiptronic paddle or a button on the wheel near your
thumb.
--- Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 21:46:06 -0700, Roderick Wilde
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>
> >The advice I received from Autotech was to use a
> button on the
> >shifter to blank the pot during shifting. This kit
> uses much larger
> >shafts with closer ratio gears. It converts it to a
> six speed also.
> >You mentioned a bus ring and pinion. This is a
> Corrado FWD transaxle.
> >We already have the quaife diff installed.
>
> Standard technique on a racing dog gearbox is to
> undercut each dog by
> about a degree so that torque forces them fully
> engaged. This also
> permits an extremely rapid shift. The technique
> involves pre-tensioning
> the shifter with your foot or hand and then winging
> the kill switch to
> cause a very brief interruption of torque. The same
> technique should work
> with electric drive.
>
> Can you program the controller for zero acceleration
> ramp? That would
> seem vital for blanking the pot fast enough.
>
> I can envision a very fast setup. A spring in the
> linkage strong enough
> to effect the shift stores energy. As the shifter
> handle is pulled
> against the spring, it hits a microswitch at the end
> of the travel which
> interrupts power. The shift is then spring driven.
> A switch on the other
> end (tranny side) of the spring restores power when
> the shift is finished.
> This would not only be lightning fast, it would also
> guarantee the dogs
> are fully engaged before power is re-applied.
>
> John
>
> ---
> John De Armond
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/
> Cleveland, Occupied TN
>
>
___________________________________________________________ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger -
all new features - even more fun! http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
GM's broad range of advanced automotive technologies on display, which dramatically
reduce emissions and improve efficiency, include the
revolutionary Hy-wire and HydroGen3 hydrogen-powered fuel cell vehicles,
and a parallel hybrid pickup.
http://www.fuelcellsworks.com/Supppage1272.html
Want to see this parallel hybrid pickup.
_______________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Dekker wrote:
> Hope someone can explain this one.
>
> http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/english/doc/2004-10/11/content_381384.htm
>
> Cars powered by this type of battery can keep running for up to
> 3,000 kilometers.
They're talking about solar cells, not "batteries". I suspect what they
meant was that solar-powered cars have run in multi-day races that
covered over 3000 km total. For instance, the solar car race from Darwin
to Adelaide Australia (1950 miles, 3120 km).
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Here is a link to tech illustration of the GMC front wheel drive setup which
used the Toronado drivetrain. It looks like the engine is set about centered
over the driveshafts.
http://www.gmcmotorhome.net/pages/engine.html
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 9:19 AM
Subject: Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
The next time you folks see one of these Cadillac Eldorados or Olds
Tornados notice the length of the hood. It was not a styling decision! The
transmission is in front of the differential and the motor is in front of
the transmission. Now go to www.suckamps.com and notice the distance from
the centerline of the front axles to the front of the vehicle. You will
not need a measuring device to tell you that it is not feasible in your
wildest imagination. It would be far easier to stuff an Allison V12 in a
Nash Metropolitan :-)
PS: For those not familiar with the famous Allison V12 engine there is a
nice picture of this 1710 cubic inch monster at:
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.geocities.com/whoppanz/Dsc01008.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.geocities.com/whoppanz/allison&h=680&w=1024&sz=75&tbnid=pFu1UL5r-MEJ:&tbnh=99&tbnw=149&start=1&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dallison%2BV12%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 6:51 AM
Subject: Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Clevenger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 11:20 PM
Subject: Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
That's would be a nice choice. I'm on a Caddy list where a guy is
running
11's with a souped up 500 and the stock tranny. This in a car that's
about
the same weight as GP.
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
> Maybe a dumb question, but could you use the GM 475 transaxle? I
believe
it
> lived behind 400 HP 455 Oldsmobile and 501 Cadillac engines.
> David C. Wilker Jr.
> USAF (RET)
winner WINNER WINNER...
Yea if we can find one....this would be really nice.
OK Rich, I'll sniff around here in CT , if one lays, unloved in a local
junkyard.Or the Bargain News Auto parts dept.
Bob
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You are invited to attend the Chico chapter of the Electric Auto Association
or "EAA".
Learn more about:
� Electric automobiles
� How to convert a car to electric
� Hybrid automobiles
� Fuel cell powered automobiles
� Compressed natural gas automobiles
This month we will have a 1975 Vanguard CitiCar on display.
Date: Saturday, October 16th from 11am. The meeting is FREE, and all are
welcome.
Join us at Chuck Alldrin's home located at:
930 West 11th Ave
Chico, CA 95926
530-899-1835
Directions:
Go West on 11th Ave.. 1/4 mile past Holly on the North side. Look for the
black mailbox and Birch trees.
We need you at the meeting to help our new EAA chapter in Chico. If you are
not now affiliated
with a local chapter, we would welcome you to transfer to our chapter.
EV's of all types (i.e.: autos, scooters, skateboards) and Hybrids are
welcome.
For more information call:
Chuck Alldrin
530-899-1835
www.energy-alternatives.com
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
***************************************************************
Chuck Alldrin Chico, CA. KN6JS Ham call
"If my people...will humble themselves and pray...I will heal their land."
II Chronicles 7:14
***************************************************************
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
With all the talk about brakes, I thought I would get in here and ask a
question about the brakes on my truck that I haven't been able to figure
out.
First the setup:
Metricmind self contained vacuum pump, works like a champ
4"diameter by about 6" long PVC vacuum reservoir
Standard Chevy S-10 (-91) vacuum booster and master cylinder
Rear drum, front disk brakes, stock for the 14" original wheels
All pads replaced within the last 20k miles
Rear wheel anti lock system, non functional at this time
Now the problem:
If I hit the brake pedal hard and very suddenly, it seems like I'm
getting no perceptible braking for a little while and the pedal does not
seem to sink down the way I would expect. If I depress the pedal
slowly, then all works as I would expect. If I push the pedal down
slowly but firmly and the truck is traveling along at a good speed, like
20mph, I can take the pedal all the way to the mechanical stop without
locking the brakes. If I am stopped with the vacuum pump stopped
(system at max vacuum), I can push the brake pedal all the way to the
mechanical stop.
I suspect air in the system somewhere. I had the brake pads and rotors
professionally serviced the last time. I am wondering if they were
successful in bleeding the brakes properly.
Anyone have thoughts on items to check, or should I just expect slow
braking for an about 3k lb vehicle?
Paul Wallace
'91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT Nicads
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello,
I'm finally going to get my Jet Electrica running this winter. I need
new batteries and was wondering what are the pros and cons of using
6-volt vs. 8-volt batteries? My car will hold 20 T-105 batteries. So
am I better off using 20 6-volt batteries for a total pack voltage of
120, or 18 8-volt batteries for a total pack voltage of 144? Will both
battery packs last the same number of cycles?
Thanks,
Patrick
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
An ongoing question. I am now in the middle a science experiment to
answer these questions:
All miles were on the same commute 43 miles to work, recharge, 43 mile
home recharge etc. (with a little variation as you can expect commuting)
Which is better, US Battery 8VGC's or US Battery 8VGC-HC?
Answer: The 8VGC gave me 12,300 miles, the 8VGC-HC gave me 14,100
miles. Pound for pound the same milage, but the -HC leaked something
awful and I had massive acid build up in the battery boxes (and
continual odor). Probabally something to do with the higher level of
acid to cover the expanded plates, without increasing the case height.
I would recommend the 8VGC over the 8VGC-HC's.
Which is better, US Battery 8VGC's or Trojan T-825?
Now running the T-825's and have 6,400 miles on them. No issues so far,
but then the US8VGC were good at 6000 miles too.
An answer to this question should be available next March (the time
where I should surpass the 8VGC milage)
When the T-825's can no longer make my commute, I will be changing the
car over to 108 V system using T125. So around spring time, 2006, I
will have an answer to the your question backed up with real world data.
General advice on the list is that 6 volters give longer life than 8V.
Lynn Adams
See my 100% electric car at http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/379.html
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Patrick Maston
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 10:59 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: 6-Volt vs. 8-volt Batteries
Hello,
I'm finally going to get my Jet Electrica running this winter. I need
new batteries and was wondering what are the pros and cons of using
6-volt vs. 8-volt batteries? My car will hold 20 T-105 batteries. So
am I better off using 20 6-volt batteries for a total pack voltage of
120, or 18 8-volt batteries for a total pack voltage of 144? Will both
battery packs last the same number of cycles?
Thanks,
Patrick
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I had the same thing happen to me, after I had the brakes, brake lines,
vacuum booster replace replace in a major replacement of all parts
overhauling.
Having one person filling the brake reservoir and another one pumping until
brake fluid comes out at the brakes may not be effected 100 percent of the
time.
I had the same indications you have. I went to a parts store and bought a
brake servicing tool, that pulls the fluid out from the reservoir to the
brake bleeding values.
There was a lot of air in this fluid, so I replace it with a new brake fluid
that did not absorbed air. I ran twice amount of brake fluid through the
system to flush all the lines out.
The 7K Lb EV stops like normal.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Wallace" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 10:56 AM
Subject: Odd Brake behavior questions
> With all the talk about brakes, I thought I would get in here and ask a
> question about the brakes on my truck that I haven't been able to figure
> out.
>
> First the setup:
>
> Metricmind self contained vacuum pump, works like a champ
> 4"diameter by about 6" long PVC vacuum reservoir
> Standard Chevy S-10 (-91) vacuum booster and master cylinder
> Rear drum, front disk brakes, stock for the 14" original wheels
> All pads replaced within the last 20k miles
> Rear wheel anti lock system, non functional at this time
>
> Now the problem:
>
> If I hit the brake pedal hard and very suddenly, it seems like I'm
> getting no perceptible braking for a little while and the pedal does not
> seem to sink down the way I would expect. If I depress the pedal
> slowly, then all works as I would expect. If I push the pedal down
> slowly but firmly and the truck is traveling along at a good speed, like
> 20mph, I can take the pedal all the way to the mechanical stop without
> locking the brakes. If I am stopped with the vacuum pump stopped
> (system at max vacuum), I can push the brake pedal all the way to the
> mechanical stop.
>
> I suspect air in the system somewhere. I had the brake pads and rotors
> professionally serviced the last time. I am wondering if they were
> successful in bleeding the brakes properly.
>
> Anyone have thoughts on items to check, or should I just expect slow
> braking for an about 3k lb vehicle?
>
> Paul Wallace
> '91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT Nicads
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Bob,
I get 2-3. The pump inside the battery box is not quite as loud but it
is noticable.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bob Bath
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 6:11 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: actuations of brake/reservoir size
Okay EVers; how many brake actuations are you getting
per pull on the vac. pump?
I'm getting ONE! It's a Randy Holmquist pump with a
KTA reservoir (about 18" long x 3" dia). It just
seems like I got more with the setup Mike Brown had on
the Rabbit. I've replaced the vac. booster, and maybe
I'll have more actuations after I bleed the line, but
right now it looks like still one brake actuation per
pump pull. (This model is non-adjustable).
Thanks,
=====
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering
wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?
_______________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today! http://vote.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Who's selling video's? Can I get one?
Mark E. Hanson
184 Vista Lane
Fincastle, VA 24090
540-563-2000x290-w
540-473-1248-H
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 2:20 AM
Subject: Woodburn...thanks for the show!!!!!!!!!!
> Hello again to All,
> I want to express a personal thanks to all of you who made Woodburn the
life
> altering event that it was for me, even though I only got to see it on
tape,
> read the post race show here on The List, and sift through hours of great
> still photos on the various Sites.
>
> I hope for the speediest (pun intended) and least expensive repairs to
> everyone who broke stuff, and speedy recovery from bumps and bruises
aquired
> at the track. It was a heck-of-a-show!!!!
>
> Regards,
>
> Rick Pryor
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Back on the road today with a used T-Rex 600 replacing the Raptor 600
that I smoked.
Every thing is working great, except my Emeter is no longer reading
current (voltage is fine, but current reads 0). Curiously, my back up
analog amp meter continues to indicate current drawn. Of course, since
the current is not being read, all the nifty emeter KW-hour, percent
used and fuel gauge features do not work. Is there something I'm
missing or is this a standard indicator of a emeter problem?
Glad to be back on the road!
Lynn
6400 miles on my pack of T-875's and rolling!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
T875's not T825's!
Lynn
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Adams, Lynn
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 11:39 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: 6-Volt vs. 8-volt Batteries
An ongoing question. I am now in the middle a science experiment to
answer these questions: All miles were on the same commute 43 miles to
work, recharge, 43 mile home recharge etc. (with a little variation as
you can expect commuting)
Which is better, US Battery 8VGC's or US Battery 8VGC-HC?
Answer: The 8VGC gave me 12,300 miles, the 8VGC-HC gave me 14,100
miles. Pound for pound the same milage, but the -HC leaked something
awful and I had massive acid build up in the battery boxes (and
continual odor). Probabally something to do with the higher level of
acid to cover the expanded plates, without increasing the case height. I
would recommend the 8VGC over the 8VGC-HC's.
Which is better, US Battery 8VGC's or Trojan T-825?
Now running the T-825's and have 6,400 miles on them. No issues so far,
but then the US8VGC were good at 6000 miles too. An answer to this
question should be available next March (the time where I should surpass
the 8VGC milage)
When the T-825's can no longer make my commute, I will be changing the
car over to 108 V system using T125. So around spring time, 2006, I
will have an answer to the your question backed up with real world data.
General advice on the list is that 6 volters give longer life than 8V.
Lynn Adams
See my 100% electric car at http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/379.html
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Patrick Maston
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 10:59 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: 6-Volt vs. 8-volt Batteries
Hello,
I'm finally going to get my Jet Electrica running this winter. I need
new batteries and was wondering what are the pros and cons of using
6-volt vs. 8-volt batteries? My car will hold 20 T-105 batteries. So
am I better off using 20 6-volt batteries for a total pack voltage of
120, or 18 8-volt batteries for a total pack voltage of 144? Will both
battery packs last the same number of cycles?
Thanks,
Patrick
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Always put a diode across (in parallel, cathode to +) any inductive device
(pump in this case). This keeps the back emf spike 100's of volts from
frying your contacts and not to mention and uP controls that may get
glitched when the pulse goes through the wiring. I also put an inrush surge
protector CL-60 in series to cut the noise in half. It used to go BURreeee,
now it goes urreee. Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Hursch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 4:00 AM
Subject: Re: More info RE: actuations of brake/reservoir size
> Hi Bob,
>
> In regards to your ? of how many brake actuations per toggle of
> the vacuum pump, here's what my scene is.
>
> I've got a modified VoltsRabbit. I never got the vacuum assist
> scene to work on that car (fried relays and it went "blat" every
> touch of the pedal). I gave up on that scene and went with no
> vacuum assist for several years.
>
> I finally got around to dealing with this situation about a year
> ago. I was going to have my vacuum assist working nice, no two
> ways about it! I'm still using the VoltsRabbit vacuum reservoir,
> although Mike Brown years ago sent me a four-hole one to replace
> the two-hole stocker. Now that I had four holes, I had plenty of
> places to put in taps and a vacuum gauge, so I can see what's
> going on and leak vacuum voluntarily (certainly helps set pump
> on/off set points). The big change is going with the KTA
> adjustable Square-D switch. It's big. It weighs a bit. It's
> expensive ($80). It goes "clack" when it turns off (the loudest
> part of the whole vacuum system now). It's reliable - the switch
> points are holding up well after a year - I see maybe a little
> carbon on them). And, it's adjustable. I have been told that
> 10" of vacuum is about what I should aim for on the low side. So
> that's when the pump turns on as we're leaking vacuum. The
> turn-off vacuum is 20". 4 presses of the break pedal to go from
> 20" to 10" (nice!), unless it's a super-hard stop. The system
> will hold vacuum better than 10" for about 15 minutes, so I have
> a bit of a leak somewhere, but I will live with it. Pumpdown
> time from 0" to 20" is about 17 seconds. Amp draw on the pump
> (same one that came with the VoltsRabbit originally) is about
> 8-9A. I have never fallen behind on pumping down - the pump
> builds up plenty of vacuum in a hurry.
>
> I've also got a muffler can ensconced down near the front
> crossbeam just behind the front bumper. Any noise that's left
> over after the muffler gets emptied into the crossbeam cavity.
> Noise is not really an issue anymore. Vibration is still there
> from the pump - I might be able to reduce that.
>
> Now I'd like to ask a ? (asked once awhile back, but no one bit).
> I avoid turning off the car's key switch when the pump is going -
> I want to avoid arcing the main key-switch relay, which is a
> chokepoint for turning the car on. What do I need in terms of
> cap and resistors to stop the pump without arcing the key-switch
> relay? The other issue is the pump is (nearly) always going to
> start when I turn on the car, so same kind of ? there. I
> remember Mike Brown circuit #1 had a diode in the circuit - maybe
> that's all I need. So far the key switch relay is holding up to
> all the turn-ons, but I'd like to be able to shut down without
> waiting for the pump to pump things down.
>
> Thanks,
> Chuck
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Bath" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 7:49 PM
> Subject: More info RE: actuations of brake/reservoir size
>
>
> > I'm _certain_ after working with a vac. gauge that I
> > don't have a leak.
> > What I _am_ thinking, though, is that my vac.
> > switch doesn't have a ton of leeway; in other words,
> > it cuts in when there is still plenty of vacuum, and
> > cuts out when it could pull the Hg down even further.
> > I'm wondering if I should just bypass the existing
> > switch, and hook up an adjustable one.
> >
> >
> > =====
> > '92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
> > ____
> > __/__|__\ __
> > =D-------/ - - \
> > 'O'-----'O'-'
> > Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the
> steering wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
> > http://vote.yahoo.com
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks for posting the pic Dave. I was wrong. I guess my memory isn't that
good. Yes the diff is in front of the trans just below the engine but I
believe it was to the rear as I vaguely remember a cutout in the rear of the
pan for an axle crossover. I will have to take a trip to our local wrecking
yard, time permitting. It is still a mute point as we don't have the real
estate. Our firewall is 10 inches from the centerline of the front axles. I
will reiterate to the folks on this list. This is a tiny vehicle crammed
with batteries. If you could put this set up in a Rabbit then you could put
it in GP but there isn't room.
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 8:48 AM
Subject: Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
Here is a link to tech illustration of the GMC front wheel drive setup
which used the Toronado drivetrain. It looks like the engine is set about
centered over the driveshafts.
http://www.gmcmotorhome.net/pages/engine.html
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 9:19 AM
Subject: Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
The next time you folks see one of these Cadillac Eldorados or Olds
Tornados notice the length of the hood. It was not a styling decision!
The transmission is in front of the differential and the motor is in
front of the transmission. Now go to www.suckamps.com and notice the
distance from the centerline of the front axles to the front of the
vehicle. You will not need a measuring device to tell you that it is not
feasible in your wildest imagination. It would be far easier to stuff an
Allison V12 in a Nash Metropolitan :-)
PS: For those not familiar with the famous Allison V12 engine there is a
nice picture of this 1710 cubic inch monster at:
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.geocities.com/whoppanz/Dsc01008.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.geocities.com/whoppanz/allison&h=680&w=1024&sz=75&tbnid=pFu1UL5r-MEJ:&tbnh=99&tbnw=149&start=1&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dallison%2BV12%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 6:51 AM
Subject: Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Clevenger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 11:20 PM
Subject: Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
That's would be a nice choice. I'm on a Caddy list where a guy is
running
11's with a souped up 500 and the stock tranny. This in a car that's
about
the same weight as GP.
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
> Maybe a dumb question, but could you use the GM 475 transaxle? I
believe
it
> lived behind 400 HP 455 Oldsmobile and 501 Cadillac engines.
> David C. Wilker Jr.
> USAF (RET)
winner WINNER WINNER...
Yea if we can find one....this would be really nice.
OK Rich, I'll sniff around here in CT , if one lays, unloved in a local
junkyard.Or the Bargain News Auto parts dept.
Bob
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
