EV Digest 3896
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Thanks :)
by David Chapman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: orbital extreme 8VXCD?
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Thanks :)
by richard ball <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Mother Earth News: Mother's Own Hybrid Car!
by "Jeff Tweed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Nissan X-Trail FCV
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Source for 48v Soneil charger
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Transport -- NY to CO -- beware of these folks ...
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Source for 48v Soneil charger
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Glueing Magnets Back In ( Myles T)
by "Rick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Glueing Magnets Back In (Joe S)
by "Rick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Source for 48v Soneil charger
by Gravity Girl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Glueing Magnets Back In (Lee H)
by "Rick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Glueing Magnets Back In ( Myles T)
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: EV for sale $1000 or less in NH (rough!)Freebee!!
by Seth Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Thanks :)
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Transport -- NY to CO -- beware of these folks ...
by Tom Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Nissan X-Trail FCV
by Nick Austin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Hello
by "Rmanzan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Relay for heater
by "Philip Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Deka Intimidator - Any Updates?
by Tom Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: Relay for heater
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Relay for heater
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Deka Intimidator - Any Updates?
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) RE: Relay for heater
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Relay for heater
by "Arthur Matteson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) RE: Relay for heater
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) RE: Relay for heater
by John Lussmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) RE: Relay for heater
by "Eddie Pettit" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) RE: Relay for heater
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I doubt that Rich Rudman sent this at all, and definitely not on purpose if
he did. BTW, he is pretty easy to contact, his phone # is on the Manzanita
website. Personally I just delete all e-mails that have an unsolicited
attachment or a subject line that doesn't make sense especially given that
I recognized that the supposed sender was Rich. David Chapman.
At 10:30 AM 11/4/04 -0800, you wrote:
I also wrote this person, w/ no response.
Eddie Pettit wrote:
I believe this user has a virus that is sending emails with attachments to
everyone in his address book. Can someone temporarily unsubscribe this user
until he removes the virus from his system so we can stop getting these
messages? I've attempted to write him directly, but received no response.
I know someone on the list mentioned that we should write them directly, but
I can't find that information.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Rmanzan
Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2004 11:36 AM
To: Ev
Subject: Re: Thanks :)
* LP8.2: HTML/Attachments detected, removed from message *
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This inspired me to try the novel concept of a phone call to
1-800-START-IT...
The Exide rep said there was no such thing as an "8-volt Orbital".
But he said that the 8VXCD *does* exist and is a "heavy duty AGM
battery". He then transfered me to someone in engineering to answer my
questions, but that just got me voice mail... it's been a few hours and
no call back yet.
The information I saw was from the page
http://www.exideworld.com/products/automotive/exide_select_orbital_XCD.html
which has the link to the PDF brocure
http://www.exideworld.com/pdf/orbital_xcd_specs_and_features.pdf
although it says 'new' it appears to be from April 2002.
The 8 volt battery is in the right most column of the chart (you'll need
to view at 400% to read it...).
Adams, Lynn wrote:
Did you see this on the PDF sheet from the Excide web sheet targeting
low-riders? If so, I called Excide about these about a year ago, and
the tech guy said there was no 8V version of the XCD in development.
They said something about out of control marketing guys...
They said there was 31 XCD in development but unknown when/if they
would go into production.
Lynn
--
_________
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak
1992 Chevy S-10 BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
http://www.eeevee.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
we had a similar problem in work last month with a worm virus
i think it was called netsky
David Chapman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I doubt that Rich Rudman sent this at all, and definitely not on purpose if
he did. BTW, he is pretty easy to contact, his phone # is on the Manzanita
website. Personally I just delete all e-mails that have an unsolicited
attachment or a subject line that doesn't make sense especially given that
I recognized that the supposed sender was Rich. David Chapman.
At 10:30 AM 11/4/04 -0800, you wrote:
>I also wrote this person, w/ no response.
>
>Eddie Pettit wrote:
>
>>I believe this user has a virus that is sending emails with attachments to
>>everyone in his address book. Can someone temporarily unsubscribe this user
>>until he removes the virus from his system so we can stop getting these
>>messages? I've attempted to write him directly, but received no response.
>>I know someone on the list mentioned that we should write them directly, but
>>I can't find that information.
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
>>Behalf Of Rmanzan
>>Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2004 11:36 AM
>>To: Ev
>>Subject: Re: Thanks :)
>>
>>
>>* LP8.2: HTML/Attachments detected, removed from message *
>>
>>
>>
>>
Regards
Richard
---------------------------------
ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even more fun!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Has anyone on the list ever tried this configuration below?
http://www.motherearthnews.com/arc/1878/<http://www.motherearthnews.com/arc/1878/>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I was driving across the Bay Bridge Wednesday night and fell in line behind
a Nissan FCV. The name was X-Trail. It was big. Michigan dealer plates.
Typical Japanese setup as far as the mirrors. A real concept car. God
knows what they were doing driving it across country. Lawrence
Rhodes.......
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thezero.net seems to have some 48v chargers at a reasonable price. Lawrence
Rhodes........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Will Bain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Gravity Girl'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2004 12:38 PM
Subject: RE: Source for 48v Soneil charger
Check out http://www.evdeals.com/48Vchargers.htm
-- Will Bain
-----Original Message-----
From: Gravity Girl [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2004 12:14 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Source for 48v Soneil charger
I'm looking for one of the 48v, because I want it on-board on my
scooter (evt-168) and there isn't enough room for 2 or 4 chargers. I
have Rudman Regs to take care of the balancing.
-Cristin
On Nov 3, 2004, at 9:03 AM, damon henry wrote:
You could just buy 4 of the 12 volt or two of the 24 volt chargers.
The price and performance is about the same. With 4 12 volt chargers
your batteries will get better individual care, though you run the
risk of one charger going bad without realizing it.
From: Gravity Girl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Source for 48v Soneil charger
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 08:54:33 -0800
Hi all-
Wondering if anyone knows where to get a 48v Soneil charger.
Evparts is out, and says they are backordered at least a month <sigh>
-Cristin
--
La Bola Ocho Magica dice: ME FALTAN DATOS
_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's
FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
--
La Bola Ocho Magica dice: SI
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Did you pay them any money? Lawrence Rhodes........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hawkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2004 1:41 PM
Subject: Transport -- NY to CO -- beware of these folks ...
I was just ripped off by "American Auto Relocation Professionals," Long
Island, NY. Beware of those folks.
In shipping an EV TeVan from Syracuse to Denver they have no-showed 4
pick-up agreements over the past 1.5 weeks and left me in a bind to move
my new EV. These people are as low as it gets. They have delayed my
transport for 3 weeks and left me high and dry.
If anyone knows of any "honorable" transporters working the NY to CO
route pls let me know.
Steve
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So where from and how much? Lawrence Rhodes........
----- Original Message -----
From: "cristin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2004 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: Source for 48v Soneil charger
Thanks for all the help guys, I have a 48v charger on its way to me now!
-Cristin
On Nov 3, 2004, at 6:04 PM, Bruce Weisenberger wrote:
www.soneil.com - Lists dealers as well
--- Gravity Girl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hi all-
Wondering if anyone knows where to get a 48v Soneil
charger.
Evparts is out, and says they are backordered at
least a month <sigh>
-Cristin
--
La Bola Ocho Magica dice: ME FALTAN DATOS
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Check out the new Yahoo! Front Page.
www.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 3:1 Devcon Titanium Putty --- $60/pound
> Both JBWeld and Loctite Coldweld disintegrated on me when I made 1/2in.
> diam. 14-point inside splines with them, while the titanium putty
survived.
> Spendy, but it's another option.
Hi Myles,
Thanks for that info. That spline filling scene is another issue I face with
the motor I'm using on the moped. If you were local, I'd buy a small amount
from you before it sets up in the container. That's the problem with stuff
like this, the chemicals go to waste in between projects.
Regards and TTYL,
Rick
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> You don't need a compass.
>
That's good, still can't find it. It'll turn up if I buy a new one though.
It's like a law, or something.
> Assuming you have a two pole pair motor (four brushes), stack the magnets
so
> they stick together like this (()). The two on the left go on the top and
> bottom of the case as you look down into the barrel. The ones on the right
> go on the left and right of the case. If you get it backwards, then you
will
> need to switch the brush leads to get the motor to run the right
direction.
That's the kind I have, except it has the magnets split up, so there is
actually 8 of them. So I'll make a double stack of the above likeness you
illustrated with ASCII. Sounds easy enough to me. Thanks for saving me the
hassles with fighting the flux and feilds of the magents still attached
inside the barrel.
Thank you very much Joe!!
Regards,
Rick
.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
ElectricRider.com, 179.95 - including XLR connector (tho I don't need
it.)
On Nov 4, 2004, at 2:25 PM, Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
So where from and how much? Lawrence Rhodes........
----- Original Message ----- From: "cristin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Thanks for all the help guys, I have a 48v charger on its way to me
now!
-Cristin
--
La Bola Ocho Magica dice: TAL COMO LO VEO, SI
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
an issue of thickness of
> > adhesive and the spacing between barrel and armature. That would
> > seem to affect field strength ~big time~ IMHO.
>
> If you're building or fixing a low-performance motor, the air gap will
> be large and the magnet placement not all that critical. The higher the
> intended efficiency of the motor, the more critical it will become.
>
I knew it would have some affect, but thanks for clarifying what exactly it
would involve for various scenarios, Lee. I actually mad a typo, I was
thinking barral and magnet spacing, depending on the adhesive thivkness. The
other magnets are embedded in a very thin film of less that 0.010 ".
> The size of the air gap between the magnet and outside shell isn't that
> critical, because the bigger it is, the smaller the gap to the armature.
> The sum of the two is always the same, so you'll have the same
> reluctance, and same field strength. However, getting the magnet too
> close to the armature will cause trouble. Besides the obvious problems
> of hitting it, being too close will increase magnetic losses in the
> armature by making the flux change more abruptly as it moves from air to
> magnet or vice versa.
Yep! You are right on it Lee! I was actually at school the day that we
learned about driving magnetism out of magnets, or transferring some to
other ferrous object by rubbing or striking them together. Back EMF would be
increased proportionate with the decreased gap, I suppose, and I don't need
more cogging. I like how smooth this PM motor is when turned by hand. It
should run out the RPM's very nicely at 36 volts.
Would that flux change abruptness cause field degradation of the magnets and
require re-magnetizing them prematurely?
I think I'll film the three magnets after prepping everything, place them
and press into the barrel, then build up little beads of the stuff around
the edges as best I can, to help trap and stabalize them into the barrel.
Thanks Lee!
Regards,
Rick
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
One little bit of warning here. When you're casting splines and similar
tasks, you're depending on the epoxy's sheer and compressive strength,
something the fillers greatly enhance. For gluing magnets back in place,
you're relying on the epoxy's adhesive strength. Fillers generally reduce
that strength because the filler particles fill bonding sites on the
substrate that the epoxy molecule would otherwise bond to.
One other warning. Heavily filled epoxies such as that titanium putty, JB
weld et al are sufficiently stiff that a minimal thickness joint is not
possible. This minimum thickness will both weaken the joint and mess up
the magnet spacing.
On Thu, 4 Nov 2004 18:18:08 -0700, "Rick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>> 3:1 Devcon Titanium Putty --- $60/pound
>> Both JBWeld and Loctite Coldweld disintegrated on me when I made 1/2in.
>> diam. 14-point inside splines with them, while the titanium putty
>survived.
>> Spendy, but it's another option.
>
>Hi Myles,
>
>Thanks for that info. That spline filling scene is another issue I face with
>the motor I'm using on the moped. If you were local, I'd buy a small amount
>from you before it sets up in the container. That's the problem with stuff
>like this, the chemicals go to waste in between projects.
>
>Regards and TTYL,
>
>Rick
---
John De Armond
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/
Cleveland, Occupied TN
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--- Begin Message ---
No taker yet.
Chris Zach was upset that I got the car and he hasn't even asked now
that I am selling it :)
EV Tradin' post next or a donation to the local school
Seth
On Nov 2, 2004, at 9:40 AM, Bob Rice wrote:
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 8:22 AM
Subject: Re: EV for sale $1000 or less in NH (rough!)Freebee!!
I just picked , what I beliave was one of Mike Brown's rabbit
conversion
kits , with the Rabbit tranny . So I'm looking for cars to put it in .
Sounds like the adptor will fit a few different cars :-) what cars
should
I
be looking for that will take this fine kit . I'd also add here after
seeing one , that these kits are very well done , and can see where
using
one would make the job a lot easyer.
H
Steve;
Howbout an older Jetta, Fox or Golf. Tony Ascrizzi did a real nice
conversion of a older Golf , sed that the tranny was the same as a
Rabbit, I
gave him a good Rabbit tranny to replace the Golf's one that reverse
died.
In FLA ya might find some clean rust free ones?
Seeya
Bob
I have a battered,white,4door, bent front strut 88 Jetta that I'd
be
happy to GIVE to anybody that wants to transplant the Rabbit stuff
into.
Body is sound, no holes, a bit mouldy inside, but would clean up. I
had
it
running once as a gasser, but I don't think it is streetable as
is..yur
call? Needs the basic Jetta/ Rabbit fixin's @#$%^ Door handles are
busted,
cracked taillite lenses, missing front grill. Who cares? You were
gunna
'
glas over it anyhow. I Just have too damn many projects for now.
It is in south central CT, Killingworth, hasz a title, all that
crap.
Hate to send it to the scrapyard.
Seeya]
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Otmar has it right. Regrettably there's no way to trace these messages any
farther than the ISP in Spain (or wherever). The person whose computer is
sending them may not even be a current list subscriber, in fact may NEVER
have been on the list. His computer knows [EMAIL PROTECTED] and
[EMAIL PROTECTED] - and that's enough to get posts the door here.
For every email it sends to the list, it's probably sending hundreds or
thousands to other people. These worms don't limit themselves to the
Outlook address book; they harvest addresses from text files and documents
of all kinds everywhere on the computer's disk drive. So if there's even ONE
email saved on the computer with those addresses in it, the worm will find it.
Fortunately the EV listserver whacks off the attachment, so it's not a hazard
to anybody here. It IS a bit of a nuisance, though I daresay that the traffic
discussing the bogus posts is probably greater than the bogus posts
themselves. <g>
There's probably nothing much we can do about these messages. Just set
your mail filter so that messages with "Thanks :)" in the subject get sent to
the bit bucket.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I just had an EV shipped from California to Virginia. �Wound up using DAS:
http://www.dasautoshippers.com/
DAS Ships nationally, so should be able to do NY to CO. �I did not opt for any of
their premium services (expedited or guaranteed delivery for example), just their
basic service. �They beat any of the other prices I was able to get for door-to-door
delivery. �They gave me an estimate of 17 days for delivery.
They picked up the car within 2 days of placing the order and then held it in their
west coast terminal for about a week (as they warn you it can) while they get an
eastbound load together. �It then traveled to their hub in Dallas and sat there for a
few days. �Final delivery was in 20 days instead of the 17 originally estimated. �
I talked to the receiving terminal the day it arrived there and set up a delivery time
with them so that I would know to be home. �They scheduled to come between 2 and 4 PM.
actually arrived about 3 PM. �The car was in great shape - they'd given it a wash at
the receiving end and the batteries were fine. �(Well as fine as they could be at 5
years old.) �
Overall, I'd say they did what they said they would. �I was not saying much nice about
them as it sat and sat at the origin terminal (you can track your cars progress on
their web site) but looking back I have to admit they did warn me. �Take them
seriously when they say that. �I guess their method is good for people who are moving
or otherwise need to get the car out of their hands quickly. �The other option would
be to pay for some of their faster service options. �
Not expecting to need such service again anytime soon, but at this point I'd certainly
look at them for another move. �
- Tom Coate
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Hash: SHA1
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
| I was driving across the Bay Bridge Wednesday night and fell in line
| behind a Nissan FCV. The name was X-Trail. It was big. Michigan
| dealer plates. Typical Japanese setup as far as the mirrors. A real
| concept car. God knows what they were doing driving it across country.
| Lawrence Rhodes.......
Were you in a BEV at the time?
That would be awesome! You should have honked :)
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I just measured the current draw of my new PTC ceramic heater element, and
its maximum draw at my peak pack voltage is 14 amps. I had hoped to use a
small KUEP-type relay ( SPST w/mag blowout) but that is rated at 10 amps .
Will I have a problem if I use this relay and put 14 amps through it? And,
if the relay fails, how will it fail ( and how dangerous could that failure
be) ?
The initial inrush will be much less ( about 6 amps). ( According to my
measurenents the element, when cold, has a higher resistance than when
warm.) So, the inrush current shouldn't be a problem.
The only other choice that I know of would be a Kilovac EV200, but the
relay is a lot cheaper and smaller.
Phil Marino
Rochester, NY
_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar � get it now!
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Back in September I saw some conversation around the new Deka Intimidator. I was
wondering if anybody had actually given them a try yet?
I need to replace a pack of Optimas and my local distributor is able to work with me
on a price for the Deka that is far better than the Optima or Orbital. (Side note:
The regional Exide office seems to be doing everything in their power to prevent
selling the 34xcd telling the distributer, and me directly "its not in our price book"
"it would take weeks to get more than one or two of them for you" "what would you want
that for anyhow?" )
Will I be the guinea pig if I try the Deka? Should I ask for any specific assurances
or guarantees if if I do go out on a limb and go with these?
BTW, I'm not looking for anything real extreme from these batteries, I'm only running
a 400 Amp controller. And the driving is just local commuting type driving, but with
enough hills to pull some amps within the controllers limits.
- Tom Coate
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I just started a thread about this on Jon Pullen's EVTECH mailing list. Lee
suggests for my PTC heaters (two of them in parallel, 312VDC 10A) to use a
PRD-11DH0-12 250VDC 20A relay with a snubber network on the contacts. This
may work for you as well.
See EVTECH http://www.evtech.org/ for more information.
Don
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Philip Marino
Sent: November 5, 2004 9:33 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Relay for heater
I just measured the current draw of my new PTC ceramic heater element, and
its maximum draw at my peak pack voltage is 14 amps. I had hoped to use a
small KUEP-type relay ( SPST w/mag blowout) but that is rated at 10 amps .
Will I have a problem if I use this relay and put 14 amps through it? And,
if the relay fails, how will it fail ( and how dangerous could that failure
be) ?
The initial inrush will be much less ( about 6 amps). ( According to my
measurenents the element, when cold, has a higher resistance than when
warm.) So, the inrush current shouldn't be a problem.
The only other choice that I know of would be a Kilovac EV200, but the
relay is a lot cheaper and smaller.
Phil Marino
Rochester, NY
_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar - get it now!
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Phil i had same problem, after looking for Mosfet switching, high voltage
relay...i finaly use a 24V coil contactor rated 48V 100A out of my junk box,
it switch with 12V and its free so perfect solution for me.
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'�chappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les v�hicules �lectriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 6:32 PM
Subject: Relay for heater
> I just measured the current draw of my new PTC ceramic heater element, and
> its maximum draw at my peak pack voltage is 14 amps. I had hoped to use a
> small KUEP-type relay ( SPST w/mag blowout) but that is rated at 10 amps .
> Will I have a problem if I use this relay and put 14 amps through it?
And,
> if the relay fails, how will it fail ( and how dangerous could that
failure
> be) ?
>
> The initial inrush will be much less ( about 6 amps). ( According to my
> measurenents the element, when cold, has a higher resistance than when
> warm.) So, the inrush current shouldn't be a problem.
>
> The only other choice that I know of would be a Kilovac EV200, but the
> relay is a lot cheaper and smaller.
>
> Phil Marino
> Rochester, NY
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar - get it now!
> http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This site appears to be selling them:
http://www.autosupplyusa.com/joeztools/exor34exdeep.html
Not sure if it's worth it with shipping and all. I was hoping to use
the 34xcd myself, but if they're unavailable ...
Tom Coate wrote:
Back in September I saw some conversation around the new Deka Intimidator. I was wondering if anybody had actually given them a try yet?
I need to replace a pack of Optimas and my local distributor is able to work with me on a price for the Deka that is
far better than the Optima or Orbital. (Side note: The regional Exide office seems to be doing everything in their
power to prevent selling the 34xcd telling the distributer, and me directly "its not in our price book"
"it would take weeks to get more than one or two of them for you" "what would you want that for
anyhow?" )
Will I be the guinea pig if I try the Deka? Should I ask for any specific assurances
or guarantees if if I do go out on a limb and go with these?
BTW, I'm not looking for anything real extreme from these batteries, I'm only running
a 400 Amp controller. And the driving is just local commuting type driving, but with
enough hills to pull some amps within the controllers limits.
- Tom Coate
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You web site link now takes me to a prescription drug page. Have you
dropped your EV project and switched to becoming a drug dealer :), or has
something gone wrong? Thanks.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Don Cameron
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 11:21 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Relay for heater
I just started a thread about this on Jon Pullen's EVTECH mailing list. Lee
suggests for my PTC heaters (two of them in parallel, 312VDC 10A) to use a
PRD-11DH0-12 250VDC 20A relay with a snubber network on the contacts. This
may work for you as well.
See EVTECH http://www.evtech.org/ for more information.
Don
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Philip Marino
Sent: November 5, 2004 9:33 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Relay for heater
I just measured the current draw of my new PTC ceramic heater element, and
its maximum draw at my peak pack voltage is 14 amps. I had hoped to use a
small KUEP-type relay ( SPST w/mag blowout) but that is rated at 10 amps .
Will I have a problem if I use this relay and put 14 amps through it? And,
if the relay fails, how will it fail ( and how dangerous could that failure
be) ?
The initial inrush will be much less ( about 6 amps). ( According to my
measurenents the element, when cold, has a higher resistance than when
warm.) So, the inrush current shouldn't be a problem.
The only other choice that I know of would be a Kilovac EV200, but the
relay is a lot cheaper and smaller.
Phil Marino
Rochester, NY
_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar - get it now!
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Both www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/ and http://www.evtech.org/ work fine for
me, FYI. Maybe you have spyware?
Great job on your website, Don.
- Art
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 1:50 PM
Subject: RE: Relay for heater
You web site link now takes me to a prescription drug page. Have you
dropped your EV project and switched to becoming a drug dealer :), or has
something gone wrong? Thanks.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Don Cameron
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 11:21 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Relay for heater
I just started a thread about this on Jon Pullen's EVTECH mailing list.
Lee
suggests for my PTC heaters (two of them in parallel, 312VDC 10A) to use a
PRD-11DH0-12 250VDC 20A relay with a snubber network on the contacts.
This
may work for you as well.
See EVTECH http://www.evtech.org/ for more information.
Don
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Philip Marino
Sent: November 5, 2004 9:33 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Relay for heater
I just measured the current draw of my new PTC ceramic heater element, and
its maximum draw at my peak pack voltage is 14 amps. I had hoped to use a
small KUEP-type relay ( SPST w/mag blowout) but that is rated at 10 amps .
Will I have a problem if I use this relay and put 14 amps through it?
And,
if the relay fails, how will it fail ( and how dangerous could that
failure
be) ?
The initial inrush will be much less ( about 6 amps). ( According to my
measurenents the element, when cold, has a higher resistance than when
warm.) So, the inrush current shouldn't be a problem.
The only other choice that I know of would be a Kilovac EV200, but the
relay is a lot cheaper and smaller.
Phil Marino
Rochester, NY
_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar - get it now!
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've tried www.cameronsoftware.com , www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/ and
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/Welcome.html -- all of which take me to the
prescription drug page. I'm in Salt Lake City, and I had a colleague in
Georgia try, but she got the drug page, too.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Arthur Matteson
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 12:17 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Relay for heater
Both www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/ and http://www.evtech.org/ work fine for
me, FYI. Maybe you have spyware?
Great job on your website, Don.
- Art
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 1:50 PM
Subject: RE: Relay for heater
> You web site link now takes me to a prescription drug page. Have you
> dropped your EV project and switched to becoming a drug dealer :), or has
> something gone wrong? Thanks.
>
> Bill Dennis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Don Cameron
> Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 11:21 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: Relay for heater
>
> I just started a thread about this on Jon Pullen's EVTECH mailing list.
> Lee
> suggests for my PTC heaters (two of them in parallel, 312VDC 10A) to use a
> PRD-11DH0-12 250VDC 20A relay with a snubber network on the contacts.
> This
> may work for you as well.
>
> See EVTECH http://www.evtech.org/ for more information.
>
> Don
>
>
>
> See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
> www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Philip Marino
> Sent: November 5, 2004 9:33 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Relay for heater
>
> I just measured the current draw of my new PTC ceramic heater element, and
> its maximum draw at my peak pack voltage is 14 amps. I had hoped to use a
> small KUEP-type relay ( SPST w/mag blowout) but that is rated at 10 amps .
>
> Will I have a problem if I use this relay and put 14 amps through it?
> And,
> if the relay fails, how will it fail ( and how dangerous could that
> failure
> be) ?
>
> The initial inrush will be much less ( about 6 amps). ( According to my
> measurenents the element, when cold, has a higher resistance than when
> warm.) So, the inrush current shouldn't be a problem.
>
> The only other choice that I know of would be a Kilovac EV200, but the
> relay is a lot cheaper and smaller.
>
> Phil Marino
> Rochester, NY
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar - get it now!
> http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 11:45 AM 11/5/2004, you wrote:
I've tried www.cameronsoftware.com , www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/ and
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/Welcome.html -- all of which take me to the
prescription drug page. I'm in Salt Lake City, and I had a colleague in
Georgia try, but she got the drug page, too.
Most likely either you (and your friend) are infected with AdWare, OR the
DNS that both of you share is corrupted.
Links work fine for me.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
FWIW, they all work correctly for me. My provider is Speakeasy.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bill Dennis
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 2:46 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Relay for heater
I've tried www.cameronsoftware.com , www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/ and
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/Welcome.html -- all of which take me to the
prescription drug page. I'm in Salt Lake City, and I had a colleague in
Georgia try, but she got the drug page, too.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Arthur Matteson
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 12:17 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Relay for heater
Both www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/ and http://www.evtech.org/ work fine for
me, FYI. Maybe you have spyware?
Great job on your website, Don.
- Art
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 1:50 PM
Subject: RE: Relay for heater
> You web site link now takes me to a prescription drug page. Have you
> dropped your EV project and switched to becoming a drug dealer :), or
> has something gone wrong? Thanks.
>
> Bill Dennis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Don Cameron
> Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 11:21 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: Relay for heater
>
> I just started a thread about this on Jon Pullen's EVTECH mailing
> list.
> Lee
> suggests for my PTC heaters (two of them in parallel, 312VDC 10A) to use a
> PRD-11DH0-12 250VDC 20A relay with a snubber network on the contacts.
> This
> may work for you as well.
>
> See EVTECH http://www.evtech.org/ for more information.
>
> Don
>
>
>
> See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
> www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Philip Marino
> Sent: November 5, 2004 9:33 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Relay for heater
>
> I just measured the current draw of my new PTC ceramic heater element,
> and its maximum draw at my peak pack voltage is 14 amps. I had hoped
> to use a small KUEP-type relay ( SPST w/mag blowout) but that is rated
> at 10 amps .
>
> Will I have a problem if I use this relay and put 14 amps through it?
> And,
> if the relay fails, how will it fail ( and how dangerous could that
> failure
> be) ?
>
> The initial inrush will be much less ( about 6 amps). ( According to
> my measurenents the element, when cold, has a higher resistance than when
> warm.) So, the inrush current shouldn't be a problem.
>
> The only other choice that I know of would be a Kilovac EV200, but
> the relay is a lot cheaper and smaller.
>
> Phil Marino
> Rochester, NY
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar - get it now!
> http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It must have been spyware. I cleared the cache on my browser and ran a
spyware destroying program on my PC, now I get to the site okay. The
depressing thing is that I had just run the spyware destroyer two days ago
:( -- oh well.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bill Dennis
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 12:46 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Relay for heater
I've tried www.cameronsoftware.com , www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/ and
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/Welcome.html -- all of which take me to the
prescription drug page. I'm in Salt Lake City, and I had a colleague in
Georgia try, but she got the drug page, too.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Arthur Matteson
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 12:17 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Relay for heater
Both www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/ and http://www.evtech.org/ work fine for
me, FYI. Maybe you have spyware?
Great job on your website, Don.
- Art
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 1:50 PM
Subject: RE: Relay for heater
> You web site link now takes me to a prescription drug page. Have you
> dropped your EV project and switched to becoming a drug dealer :), or has
> something gone wrong? Thanks.
>
> Bill Dennis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Don Cameron
> Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 11:21 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: Relay for heater
>
> I just started a thread about this on Jon Pullen's EVTECH mailing list.
> Lee
> suggests for my PTC heaters (two of them in parallel, 312VDC 10A) to use a
> PRD-11DH0-12 250VDC 20A relay with a snubber network on the contacts.
> This
> may work for you as well.
>
> See EVTECH http://www.evtech.org/ for more information.
>
> Don
>
>
>
> See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
> www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Philip Marino
> Sent: November 5, 2004 9:33 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Relay for heater
>
> I just measured the current draw of my new PTC ceramic heater element, and
> its maximum draw at my peak pack voltage is 14 amps. I had hoped to use a
> small KUEP-type relay ( SPST w/mag blowout) but that is rated at 10 amps .
>
> Will I have a problem if I use this relay and put 14 amps through it?
> And,
> if the relay fails, how will it fail ( and how dangerous could that
> failure
> be) ?
>
> The initial inrush will be much less ( about 6 amps). ( According to my
> measurenents the element, when cold, has a higher resistance than when
> warm.) So, the inrush current shouldn't be a problem.
>
> The only other choice that I know of would be a Kilovac EV200, but the
> relay is a lot cheaper and smaller.
>
> Phil Marino
> Rochester, NY
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar - get it now!
> http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
