EV Digest 3929
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Battery Identification
by TiM M <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: 200sx 0-60 estimates - a friendly little contest
by "Catherine C. Burgard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: 200sx 0-60 estimates - a friendly little contest
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: currenteliminator.com questions OT
by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: 200sx 0-60 estimates - a friendly little contest
by "Tim Humphrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re:Battery Identification
by "Tim Humphrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Battery Identification
by "Tim Humphrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: 200sx 0-60 estimates - a friendly little contest
by keith vansickle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: 200sx 0-60 estimates - a friendly little contest]
by "Tim Humphrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: After a simple voltmeter circuit using LEDs
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
11) Re: Hybrid compared to EV in fuel cost. (Going OT)
by Dick Farfel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: currenteliminator.com questions
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Modular Charger
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: currenteliminator.com questions
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Woodburn 2004 Highlights Video
by "Bobby R." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: After a simple voltmeter circuit using LEDs
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Line reactors = inductors
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Line reactors = inductors
by Andrew Paulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Battery Identification
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: After a simple voltmeter circuit using LEDs
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
21) Fw: [seva] Something to be thankful for
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: After a simple voltmeter circuit using LEDs
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Line reactors = inductors
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: After a simple voltmeter circuit using LEDs
by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) fuel gauge and clutchless shifting
by brian baumel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: 200sx 0-60 estimates - a friendly little contest]
by Roderick Wilde <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: After a simple voltmeter circuit using LEDs
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) RE: After a simple voltmeter circuit using LEDs
by "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Line reactors = inductors
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I'm trying to ID the batteries in my EV and
trying to get an idea of how old they may be. The guy
I bought it from didn't know much about EVs and had no
info on the conversion or the components.
I don't see any manufacturers makings on the
batteries. They have a red top with a white body. They
are 7 1/8" wide by 10 1/8" long by 9 1/2" tall. They
have a generic acid caution sticker on top and are
stamped with J2 and also a number on the along one
edge, 27246719 is the number on most of them. I'm
assuming there is a date code in there somewhere. Any
help on who the manufacturer is and what the capacity
would be? They are 6V flooded batteries by the by.
Thanks for any info.
Tim
'61 Electric Corvair Rampside Pickup
'80 Jet Electrica 007 (Currently for sale)
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The all-new My Yahoo! - Get yours free!
http://my.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
0-60 in 12.3
Catherine Burgrd, Templeton CA
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
The all-new My Yahoo! � Get yours free!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What gear ratios do you have?
Which gears to you use? (1,3,5 or 3,5 or 1,2,3,4,5)
What are your shift points?
What are the Z1K settings?
What are the motor constants? (Milliohms at a stop and milliohms per 1000
RPM)
What is the battery pack internal resistance?
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Bohm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 22, 2004 9:01 PM
Subject: 200sx 0-60 estimates - a friendly little contest
> Hi Everyone,
>
> David Dymaxion responded to my question "how fast do you think the 200sx
> will go from 0-60". He guessed 11-14 seconds. I was hoping for a
> little better, but I can be realistic. I thought I'd have a little fun
> with it though. In anticipation of the 200sx finally running (hopefully
> within the next 2 weeks if my batteries ever show up and I can steal
> enough time over the Thanksgiving break), I thought I'd have a little
> contest. Everyone send me your guess to the nearest tenth of a second
> on how fast you think I'll go 0-60 (David, you'll have to refine your
> estimate a bit). *The closest guess gets a free CafeElectric T-shirt!*
> Hey, I don't even have one of those yet!
>
> For those that missed the specs:
>
> Prestolite MTC-4001 7" 96V rated 20hp motor
> Zilla Z1K
> 144V of Exide Orbitals
> 1984 Nissan 200sx chassis - should weigh in around 3k lbs
>
> If you need a picture for aerodynamics, take a look at
> http://www.evsource.com/conversion/
>
> Hopefully we can have a little fun with this.
>
> -Ryan
>
> --
> - EV Source -
> Zillas, PFC Chargers, and other EV stuff at great prices
> 5% off all items in our Top-Line Shop from November to Christmas!
> E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The warning is KEEP you domain name paid in full or it will get
jacked.
Apologies if this is a repeat. Keeping your name paid is NOT ENOUGH. You
HAVE to have it locked down to your registrar as well. It is a simple
matter to switch a domain if it is not locked down. That is why they
added the lock down feature.
There are new features that let users who want a domain that is
currently owned by others to "queue" up and wait for it. This means that
the second a domain name expires, it is automatically snatched up by
another party. This is obviously why it is critical to keep things
renewed and info current.
The lock down feature just says that you are keeping your domain with
the current registrar. If you don't lock it, another (legal and valid)
registrar could contact your registrar and claim that a valid request
has been made to switch your domain from the old registrar to the new
one. Valid looking requests are easy to make, and some registrars are
shady. This is the classic hijack methodology.
register.com is a great registrar and they allow you to set all these
settings any time via the browser. You can also totally control the
transfer of a domain from one party to another with no fear of problems,
which is another area that domain hijackers are known to exploit. I use
register.com for all my domains.
-Ken Trough
Admin - V is for Voltage Megasite
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM - ktrough
FAX - 801-749-7807
message - 866-872-8901
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
17.2 ;-)
Good luck, I hope I'm way wrong.
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
"Whether you think you can or think you can't, you are right!" --Henry Ford
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Ryan Bohm
> Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2004 12:02 AM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: 200sx 0-60 estimates - a friendly little contest
>
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> David Dymaxion responded to my question "how fast do you think the 200sx
> will go from 0-60". He guessed 11-14 seconds. I was hoping for a
> little better, but I can be realistic. I thought I'd have a little fun
> with it though. In anticipation of the 200sx finally running (hopefully
> within the next 2 weeks if my batteries ever show up and I can steal
> enough time over the Thanksgiving break), I thought I'd have a little
> contest. Everyone send me your guess to the nearest tenth of a second
> on how fast you think I'll go 0-60 (David, you'll have to refine your
> estimate a bit). *The closest guess gets a free CafeElectric T-shirt!*
> Hey, I don't even have one of those yet!
>
> For those that missed the specs:
>
> Prestolite MTC-4001 7" 96V rated 20hp motor
> Zilla Z1K
> 144V of Exide Orbitals
> 1984 Nissan 200sx chassis - should weigh in around 3k lbs
>
> If you need a picture for aerodynamics, take a look at
> http://www.evsource.com/conversion/
>
> Hopefully we can have a little fun with this.
>
> -Ryan
>
> --
> - EV Source -
> Zillas, PFC Chargers, and other EV stuff at great prices
> 5% off all items in our Top-Line Shop from November to Christmas!
> E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does it look like this? But without the label obviously.
It sounds like a generic re-brand
When you measured the height did you include the terminals?
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
"Whether you think you can or think you can't, you are right!" --Henry Ford
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of TiM M
> Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2004 12:06 AM
> To: EV-List-Post
> Subject: Battery Identification
>
>
> I'm trying to ID the batteries in my EV and
> trying to get an idea of how old they may be. The guy
> I bought it from didn't know much about EVs and had no
> info on the conversion or the components.
> I don't see any manufacturers makings on the
> batteries. They have a red top with a white body. They
> are 7 1/8" wide by 10 1/8" long by 9 1/2" tall. They
> have a generic acid caution sticker on top and are
> stamped with J2 and also a number on the along one
> edge, 27246719 is the number on most of them. I'm
> assuming there is a date code in there somewhere. Any
> help on who the manufacturer is and what the capacity
> would be? They are 6V flooded batteries by the by.
> Thanks for any info.
>
> Tim
> '61 Electric Corvair Rampside Pickup
> '80 Jet Electrica 007 (Currently for sale)
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> The all-new My Yahoo! - Get yours free!
> http://my.yahoo.com
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
D'UH
this goes with my other post
http://www.usbattery.com/6vglfcr.htm
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
"Whether you think you can or think you can't, you are right!" --Henry Ford
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of TiM M
> Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2004 12:06 AM
> To: EV-List-Post
> Subject: Battery Identification
>
>
> I'm trying to ID the batteries in my EV and
> trying to get an idea of how old they may be. The guy
> I bought it from didn't know much about EVs and had no
> info on the conversion or the components.
> I don't see any manufacturers makings on the
> batteries. They have a red top with a white body. They
> are 7 1/8" wide by 10 1/8" long by 9 1/2" tall. They
> have a generic acid caution sticker on top and are
> stamped with J2 and also a number on the along one
> edge, 27246719 is the number on most of them. I'm
> assuming there is a date code in there somewhere. Any
> help on who the manufacturer is and what the capacity
> would be? They are 6V flooded batteries by the by.
> Thanks for any info.
>
> Tim
> '61 Electric Corvair Rampside Pickup
> '80 Jet Electrica 007 (Currently for sale)
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> The all-new My Yahoo! - Get yours free!
> http://my.yahoo.com
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
14.3
Kevs
70 120v bug
--- Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
>
> David Dymaxion responded to my question "how fast do
> you think the 200sx
> will go from 0-60". He guessed 11-14 seconds. I
> was hoping for a
> little better, but I can be realistic. I thought
> I'd have a little fun
> with it though. In anticipation of the 200sx
> finally running (hopefully
> within the next 2 weeks if my batteries ever show up
> and I can steal
> enough time over the Thanksgiving break), I thought
> I'd have a little
> contest. Everyone send me your guess to the nearest
> tenth of a second
> on how fast you think I'll go 0-60 (David, you'll
> have to refine your
> estimate a bit). *The closest guess gets a free
> CafeElectric T-shirt!*
> Hey, I don't even have one of those yet!
>
> For those that missed the specs:
>
> Prestolite MTC-4001 7" 96V rated 20hp motor
> Zilla Z1K
> 144V of Exide Orbitals
> 1984 Nissan 200sx chassis - should weigh in around
> 3k lbs
>
> If you need a picture for aerodynamics, take a look
> at
> http://www.evsource.com/conversion/
>
> Hopefully we can have a little fun with this.
>
> -Ryan
>
> --
> - EV Source -
> Zillas, PFC Chargers, and other EV stuff at great
> prices
> 5% off all items in our Top-Line Shop from November
> to Christmas!
> E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
All your favorites on one personal page � Try My Yahoo!
http://my.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>>17.2 ;-)
>>Good luck, I hope I'm way wrong.
Oops maybe I should pay more attention.......
that was my 1/4 mile prediction,
I'll give you a 10.2, 0-60mph.
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
"Whether you think you can or think you can't, you are right!" --Henry Ford
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes, I've just been playing with such a circuit, the LM3914 chip, costs about
$1 in the US. See this URL:
http://www.electronics-tutorials.com/devices/lm3914.htm
It is a voltmeter that directly drives 10 LEDs. It has a built-in voltage
reference and therefore the thing can be assembled with as few as 3 external
components (2 resistors and 1 small capacitor) (plus the LEDs).
It will light the LEDs in bar graph (0V to measured voltage lit) or dot mode
(just the LED for the measured voltage lit) based on the voltage to one pin.
You can set the upper and lower voltage boundries to display (0 to 18 volts).
I am currently constructing 10 of these, one for each battery on my motorcycle.
I'll be mounting the LEDs as a 10x10 graph so I can see if one battery sags
more than the others under load.
It will read 10.5 to 13.0 volts in 1/4 volt increments when driving, a little
higher range when charging.
It'll have a brightness control and dot/bar toggle.
I am using Opto isolators on each sense wire so that I won't be bringing full
pack voltage up to my instrument panel.
It'll all run at 12-14 volts from my (fully isolating) DC-DC converter.
I've also got a high value resistor in the sense line, to limit a dead short to
1/4 watt, as well as 1/4 amp solid state circuit breaker (untried).
I've not worked with these circuit breakers before, so that part is still
tentative till I learn more about them. They physically look like a 0.1uF
capacitor, but act like a dead short at low currents. I got them cheap when I
was ordering some other parts.
Comments welcome
"Mad" Mike Shipway
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Fowler [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2004 03:31 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: After a simple voltmeter circuit using LEDs
>
> Hi all,
>
> I vaguely remember seeing a simple voltmeter circuit for measuring small
> voltages made out of just LEDs and resistors.
>
> Can anyone point me to a web site or Hartian ASCII diagram to show how I
> should wire something up to roughly indicate the voltage produced by a
> little hand generator.
> (I can get it to about 7V furiously spinning the handle.)
>
> I have a whole bunch of pretty standard red LEDs - are they about 1.4V
> drop?
>
> Mark
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> The guy said that if you floorboard a new Prius, the
RPM will jump to
> and stay at 2300 RPM untill the car reaches the
governed speed, 94
MPH.
> If he was correct, I dont see much use for a tach...
I'll say. 2300rpm sounds like the most fuel efficient
setting too. I
wonder if the Highlander will do the same thing...
====================================================
wouldn't full throttle be more efficient?
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The all-new My Yahoo! - Get yours free!
http://my.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[Firstly, I'd like to point out that at the time of this writing, it
says "The top FUTURE resources on the net"]
As far as "why", it appears that they're simply trying to make $$$ by
serving up ads. To get the ads out there, they register domains that
sound like something someone might type in, then stuff them full of
popups and ad links.
There are two routes you can choose to resolve it.
First, if the term in question is trademarked, then the
Anticyberquatting Consumer Protection Act (ACPA) of 1999 modifies the US
Trademark Act. Under the ACPA, a person may face civil liability to the
owner of a trademark (or a personal name) if such person:
(1) has a bad faith intent to profit from a mark; and
(2) registers, trafficks in, or uses a domain name that:
(3) is identical or confusingly similar to a distinctive trademark;(b)
is identical, confusingly similar to or dilutive of a famous trademark; or
(4) infringes a specially-granted trademark such as "U.S. OLYMPICS" or
"AMERICAN RED CROSS."
You'd have to sue to pursue an ACPA claim.
Second, you can go though ICANN and use their "Uniform Domain-Name
Dispute-Resolution," which doesn't involve the courts, thought it will
still cost $$$ to pay the arbiters. Typically, they also look for
trademark ownership.
http://www.icann.org/udrp/udrp.htm
Resolution providers (note the <http://www.adndrc.org/>"Asian Domain
Name Dispute Resolution Centre," which has offices in Hong Kong):
http://www.icann.org/udrp/approved-providers.htm
For just a little $$$, you can probably hire a lawyer to send a nasty
letter demanding the domain be handed over, but since they're in HK,
it's likely to have zero effect.
Roderick Wilde wrote:
Can one of you computer gurus out there explain to me why someone
would put up a site with the subtitle "The top ELECTRIC VEHICLE
resources on the net " and have absolutely nothing to do with EVs. I'm
confused. Is it some kind of scam or way of making money by hits.
Please enlighten me. There doesn't seem to be a way to contact them
and ask them what's this all about.
Roderick
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I sent an email to them asking about their reliability testing
methodology. If I don't get a response in a week or so, I'll call them.
Lee Hart wrote:
Eric Poulsen wrote:
I've been looking closely at the Soneil brand... For their 24V 8A
charger, Soneil claims... MTBF 50,000 power-on-hours (POH) or
greater.
That's a pretty good number. Lambda, Vicor, and the other premium
supplies generally have an MTBF of 100,000 hours or more. But most
consumer supply MTBF aren't even 10,000 hours.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[Firstly, I'd like to point out that at the time of this writing, it
says "The top FUTURE resources on the net"]
As far as "why", it appears that they're simply trying to make $$$ by
serving up ads. To get the ads out there, they register domains that
sound like something someone might type in, then stuff them full of
popups and ad links.
There are two routes you can choose to resolve it.
First, if the term in question is trademarked, then the
Anticyberquatting Consumer Protection Act (ACPA) of 1999 modifies the US
Trademark Act. Under the ACPA, a person may face civil liability to the
owner of a trademark (or a personal name) if such person:
(1) has a bad faith intent to profit from a mark; and
(2) registers, trafficks in, or uses a domain name that:
(3) is identical or confusingly similar to a distinctive trademark;(b)
is identical, confusingly similar to or dilutive of a famous trademark; or
(4) infringes a specially-granted trademark such as "U.S. OLYMPICS" or
"AMERICAN RED CROSS."
You'd have to sue to pursue an ACPA claim.
Second, you can go though ICANN and use their "Uniform Domain-Name
Dispute-Resolution," which doesn't involve the courts, thought it will
still cost $$$ to pay the arbiters. Typically, they also look for
trademark ownership.
http://www.icann.org/udrp/udrp.htm
Resolution providers (note the <http://www.adndrc.org/>"Asian Domain
Name Dispute Resolution Centre," which has offices in Hong Kong):
http://www.icann.org/udrp/approved-providers.htm
For just a little $$$, you can probably hire a lawyer to send a nasty
letter demanding the domain be handed over, but since they're in HK,
it's likely to have zero effect.
Roderick Wilde wrote:
Can one of you computer gurus out there explain to me why someone
would put up a site with the subtitle "The top ELECTRIC VEHICLE
resources on the net " and have absolutely nothing to do with EVs. I'm
confused. Is it some kind of scam or way of making money by hits.
Please enlighten me. There doesn't seem to be a way to contact them
and ask them what's this all about.
Roderick
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yeah awesome video, thanks!!!
Bobby in Indiana
>
> --- RossO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I spliced and cut and pasted a 6 minute highlights
> > video from the
> > Woodburn event with a great soundtrack.
> >
> > Take a look at the video here:
> >
> > http://www.oeva.org/events/woodburn2004/
> >
> > The video is available in three sizes: 5mb, 10mb
> and
> > 30mb, so pick your
> > poison and start watching.
> >
> > ...Ross...
> >
> >
> > PS, There's a White Zombie burnout in there by
> > special request...
> >
> >
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard.
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I've just been playing with such a circuit, the LM3914 chip...
This works. There are pre-built PC boards with the LM3914 and 10 LEDs
sold as "meters" for consumer products. There is also a kit (using a
pair of LM324's) for a 7-step LED voltmeter (model VM-1, Jameco#
181833CR, $8.95).
> I am using Opto isolators on each sense wire so that I won't be
> bringing full pack voltage up to my instrument panel.
I'd be interested in the circuit you used to do that.
> I've also got a high value resistor in the sense line, to limit
> a dead short to 1/4 watt
1/4w where? The display end will obviously take a lot more than this,
with at least 10 LEDs lit.
> as well as 1/4 amp solid state circuit breaker (untried). I've
> not worked with these circuit breakers before, so that part is
> still tentative till I learn more about them. They physically
> look like a 0.1uF capacitor, but act like a dead short at low
> currents.
Probably not a circuit breaker, but a PTC (Positive Temperature
Coefficient) resistor, like the MuRata Posistor, Raychem Polyswitch,
etc. They are not as reliable or predictable as a fuse, so you need to
carefully test and evaluate them to insure that they really do add
safety.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A while back, someone asked about a source of series inductors to add to
motors that don't have enough inductance by themselves to make a
controller happy. At the time, I searched the web for "inductors" and
was disappointed by how few I could find.
Last night, I discovered that the term you should search for is "line
reactors". This will yield thousands of hits. There are many companies
making single-phase AC and DC, and 3-phase AC inductors explicitly for
motor controls. You'll have no trouble finding units even for thousands
of amps!
Warning; most of them are rated for continuous duty operation, and so
far bigger than needed for an EV, which could never run at full power
for more than a matter of minutes. Most of these reactors still have
half their inductance at 350% of rated current.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thank you!
Andrew P
On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 11:00:51 -0800, Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> A while back, someone asked about a source of series inductors to add to
> motors that don't have enough inductance by themselves to make a
> controller happy. At the time, I searched the web for "inductors" and
> was disappointed by how few I could find.
>
> Last night, I discovered that the term you should search for is "line
> reactors". This will yield thousands of hits. There are many companies
> making single-phase AC and DC, and 3-phase AC inductors explicitly for
> motor controls. You'll have no trouble finding units even for thousands
> of amps!
>
> Warning; most of them are rated for continuous duty operation, and so
> far bigger than needed for an EV, which could never run at full power
> for more than a matter of minutes. Most of these reactors still have
> half their inductance at 350% of rated current.
> --
> "Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
> citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
> has!" -- Margaret Mead
> --
> Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The "J2" marking is probably the date code. Count through the alphabet to
J, that's 10, so it would be Oct. '02.
Mike Brown
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm in the build and torture phase at the moment, so the specifics are subject
to change if something goes poof in the torture test.<grin>
I'll post a link to the circuits to all this stuff when I get it finalized.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lee Hart [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2004 06:42 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: After a simple voltmeter circuit using LEDs
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > I've just been playing with such a circuit, the LM3914 chip...
>
> This works. There are pre-built PC boards with the LM3914 and 10 LEDs
> sold as "meters" for consumer products. There is also a kit (using a
> pair of LM324's) for a 7-step LED voltmeter (model VM-1, Jameco#
> 181833CR, $8.95).
Premade PC boards are a nice way to go if you can, but since I want to put 10
in a small box, I'll be doing point-to-point soldering and will probably mount
the LEDs on a separate board.
I'm thinking alternatly of glueing the LM3914s to the metal case for better
heat dissipation, and wiring it up "dead bug" style.
Any idea if superglue is a good heat conductor?
The LM3914 contains 10 comparaters and the voltage divider network already
wired together. Whereas the LM324 is a Quad Op-amp chip and so would require
an external voltage divider to be fabricated (10 resistors), as well as the
voltage reference.
FWIW, there is also a LM3915, which has a log rather than linear divider
network.
> > I am using Opto isolators on each sense wire so that I won't be
> > bringing full pack voltage up to my instrument panel.
>
> I'd be interested in the circuit you used to do that.
The optos I have are 4N24 "Solid State Opto-Electronic High Gain Silicon NPN
Coupler". The datasheet and application notes say that it can be operated in a
linear mode with "high accuracy".
This weekend I hope to get out o'scope and prototyping kit and see if I can
make it linear enough and accurate enough for this application.
It claims to have 10^11 Ohms isolation, which should be enough at 72 volts.
> > I've also got a high value resistor in the sense line, to limit
> > a dead short to 1/4 watt
>
> 1/4w where? The display end will obviously take a lot more than this,
> with at least 10 LEDs lit.
The plan is to have 22Kohm resistors in the wires that actually connect to the
battery posts. This way, if any 2 of these wires touched, the current in the
sense wires would be limited.
Figuring a worst case of 72 volts (5 batteries, freshly charged) I'd get:
(72 volt/22000 ohm) = 0.0033 amperes
72V * 0.0033A = 0.24 Watts
> > as well as 1/4 amp solid state circuit breaker (untried). I've
> > not worked with these circuit breakers before, so that part is
> > still tentative till I learn more about them. They physically
> > look like a 0.1uF capacitor, but act like a dead short at low
> > currents.
>
> Probably not a circuit breaker, but a PTC (Positive Temperature
> Coefficient) resistor, like the MuRata Posistor, Raychem Polyswitch,
> etc. They are not as reliable or predictable as a fuse, so you need to
> carefully test and evaluate them to insure that they really do add
> safety.
Hmm, if they are changing resistance with temperature, they would mess up the
voltage measurements. I may have to stick with just my 22K resistors, or get
real fuses.
I'll check the markings on the component when I get home tonight, I need to
find out what the specs are anyway.
Ultimately, I'd rather have the meter fail or shut down than have the wiring
between my legs catch fire.
"Mad" Mike Shipway
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey this is a good enough post for me to bounce it to the main EV list.
This is the main essence of Why Us Racers and High amp Evers still put on a
show.
Alot of folks still think we have to be slow... WE don't.
John Wayland, Rod, FT, Tom and I and the rest of the SEVA group that WERE at
the Greenlake show.. This is why the long trips and Weekends on the road
with friends is worth it.
Steve I hope you don't mind me doing this...
Rich Rudman
Madman.
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2004 9:39 AM
Subject: [seva] Something to be thankful for
> At time we moan and groan about going to car shows and ask ourselves, are
> they doing any good. Here's a little tid bit that I overheard yesterday.
>
> While giving a vehicle demonstration at the Woodland Park Zoo yesterday,
two
> of the facilities workers were talking. The first man said that electric
> cars don't go very fast so why the bother. The second man then recalled a
> car show at Greenwood last Summer. He spoke in detail about the car that
> beat a Viper in a quarter mile run-he even new the time the little Nissan
> had clocked. Under 12 seconds.
>
> Then he went on about this postal van with unbelievable speed. He
finished
> talking about this VW looking car that can be driven around the
> neighborhood. I wanted to butt in but I decided to let these two guys
> continue. About a minute later they were done talking, I looked over and
> both had smiles on their faces. I felt good.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> Visit the SEVA website at http://www.seattleeva.org
> If you wish to unsubscribe from this mailing, send mail to
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] with a subject of: unsubscribe seva
> Or Click Here mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> This message created for [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Premade PC boards are a nice way to go if you can, but since
> I want to put 10 in a small box, I'll be doing point-to-point
> soldering and will probably mount the LEDs on a separate board.
The premade board is tiny; smaller than anything you could make. As I
recall, it is about 2" x 1" x 1/8" thick, with the LEDs facing out the
edge. All surface mount, and with the LM3914 just the bare chip hiding
under a blob of potting compound (chip-on-board).
> Any idea if superglue is a good heat conductor?
Probably not.
> The LM3914 contains 10 comparators and the voltage divider network
> already wired together. Whereas the LM324 is a Quad Op-amp chip
> and so would require an external voltage divider to be fabricated
> (10 resistors), as well as the voltage reference.
Right. The LM324 version has more parts, but they are cheaper parts, so
the net cost is less. They are of course depending on your labor being
free to put it together.
> The optos I have are 4N24 "Solid State Opto-Electronic High Gain
> Silicon NPN Coupler". The datasheet and application notes say
> that it can be operated in a linear mode with "high accuracy".
Good luck. Optos used this way are notoriously inaccurate and unstable.
LED brightness-versus-current and phototransistor sensitivity are both
nonlinear, and sensitive to temperature and long-term drift.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I received my "lynch" power corrected Alltrax anyway but you still are my
Hero Lee.
Philippe
Et si le pot d'�chappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les v�hicules �lectriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2004 8:00 PM
Subject: Line reactors = inductors
> A while back, someone asked about a source of series inductors to add to
> motors that don't have enough inductance by themselves to make a
> controller happy. At the time, I searched the web for "inductors" and
> was disappointed by how few I could find.
>
> Last night, I discovered that the term you should search for is "line
> reactors". This will yield thousands of hits. There are many companies
> making single-phase AC and DC, and 3-phase AC inductors explicitly for
> motor controls. You'll have no trouble finding units even for thousands
> of amps!
>
> Warning; most of them are rated for continuous duty operation, and so
> far bigger than needed for an EV, which could never run at full power
> for more than a matter of minutes. Most of these reactors still have
> half their inductance at 350% of rated current.
> --
> "Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
> citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
> has!" -- Margaret Mead
> --
> Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Not to put the efforts down but why not just get a DVM and mount a
multi-position switch to read each battery? Or get a panel meter for each
www.datel.com has small panel meters which bought in bulk would be far more
accurate then LED monitoring. But I realize $40 a shot would make it rather
expensive unless you used the multiple switching method. Say 1 panel at $50.00
and 10 DP push buttons to measure each battery?
Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I've just been playing with such a circuit, the LM3914 chip...
This works. There are pre-built PC boards with the LM3914 and 10 LEDs
sold as "meters" for consumer products. There is also a kit (using a
pair of LM324's) for a 7-step LED voltmeter (model VM-1, Jameco#
181833CR, $8.95).
> I am using Opto isolators on each sense wire so that I won't be
> bringing full pack voltage up to my instrument panel.
I'd be interested in the circuit you used to do that.
> I've also got a high value resistor in the sense line, to limit
> a dead short to 1/4 watt
1/4w where? The display end will obviously take a lot more than this,
with at least 10 LEDs lit.
> as well as 1/4 amp solid state circuit breaker (untried). I've
> not worked with these circuit breakers before, so that part is
> still tentative till I learn more about them. They physically
> look like a 0.1uF capacitor, but act like a dead short at low
> currents.
Probably not a circuit breaker, but a PTC (Positive Temperature
Coefficient) resistor, like the MuRata Posistor, Raychem Polyswitch,
etc. They are not as reliable or predictable as a fuse, so you need to
carefully test and evaluate them to insure that they really do add
safety.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
hi all,
I have two questions and a comment.
one: I am working on a micro controller for my EV and one function it will
facilitate is calibrating my "fuel" gauge. the question is, what voltage should
I pick for "empty" i.e. what % of the total voltage is ok for a discharge? its
a 120V gel cell bank... I know less discharge the better..but what is a good
standard?
two: another thing this micro controller will be doing is clutchless shifting.
I just want to make sure I have this right before I proceed further. the motor
speed needs to be the drive shaft * the gear ratio of the destination gear.
exp:
drive shaft =10rpm
destination gear ratio=4/1 (4 motor, 1 drive so for every 4 turns of the motor,
the drive shaft will move once)
desired rpm of motor= 10 * 4 = 40rpm's
is that all I need to be concerned with?
the comment is: I've recently made a DC-DC converter out of a normal switching
power supply, a MOSFET and a simple pulse circuit. the pulse circuit pulses
(120HZ) the input of the pwr supply and fools it into thinking its rectified
AC. it works great. the pwr supply only cost about $20 and supplies 13.5V @
20A. it was a 12V supply. in order to get it up to 13+ you will need to find
the feed back resistor and adjust it.... also if your using a 120V bank like I
did make sure you set the input voltage switch on the pwr supply to 240V
because that would be the peak-peak value if this wasn't rectified AC.... if
your using a 60V bank then the 115V setting would be the way to go.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My best guesstimate would be 11.8 seconds 0 to 60 mph based on the
way my brain works. This would be after dialed in of course.
Roderick Wilde
Suck Amps EV Racing
www.suckamps.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> I'm in the build and torture phase at the moment, so the specifics are
> subject to change if
> something goes poof in the torture test.<grin>
>
> I'll post a link to the circuits to all this stuff when I get it finalized.
>
This sounds like an excellent project. I think it would be pretty cool to have
a grid of LEds on
the dash showing you real time what your pack is doing. If it gets too bright
you could semi-hide
it behind a smoke glass window to subdue it a little. Just enough to keey an
eye on the pack, but
not enough to blind you at night. And if you have a stinker in the pack, it
will stand out.
I'd love to do the same but my electronics abilities don't go much farther than
wiring and
soldering what someone else has figured out for me. If you post more info about
this project could
you also include details of how you incorporate the opto isolators and details
like that?
Thanks
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
OK, once again I've done a pitiful job of explaining myself...
The circuit that I recall had a bunch of LEDs in series and some
resistors coming off the side? so that what happened was that as the
voltage increased, each LED would light up.
Does this make sense?
Anyway, the requirement for accuracy is roughly 0%.
I just need something that will light up more LEDs as the kids at school
spin the hand generator faster.
Mark
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Last night, I discovered that the term you should search for is "line
> reactors". This will yield thousands of hits. There are many companies
> making single-phase AC and DC, and 3-phase AC inductors explicitly for
> motor controls. You'll have no trouble finding units even for thousands
> of amps!
Thanks Lee. I made one already as per your suggestion with a couple
of dismantled transformers, which seems to work fine, and it was
instructive!
Regards
Evan
--- End Message ---
