EV Digest 4022
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: converting generator to natural gas
by "steve ollerton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: OT prius generator
by richard ball <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: LED output
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Wiring on underside - waterproofing?
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: U of W project, was Venturi Fetish
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: The point of diminishing returns?
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: WICKED WATTS RACE RESCHEDULED
by "Chip Gribben" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: LED output
by Quin Pendragon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Wiring on underside - waterproofing?
by "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Looking for that 1 wire voltage monitor chip
by Chris Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: OT prius generator
by "Markus L" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Keith, Re: Batts in Ghia's, Helper springs
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: The point of diminishing returns?
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Fwd: New Yahoo Group-EVAOSC-speakers for Jan. & Feb. 2005
by Ivan Workman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: OT prius generator
by Edward Ang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) RE: Looking for that 1 wire voltage monitor chip
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: OT prius generator
by "Mr23" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) lithium-manganese batteries
by Lee Dekker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Ni Cad Charging
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: OT prius generator
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
21) Re: WICKED WATTS RACE RESCHEDULED
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Charging Trade-offs (was: The Amazing Little Hawkers.)
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Charging Trade-offs (was: The Amazing Little Hawkers.)
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: converting generator to natural gas
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Wiring on underside - waterproofing?
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Wiring on underside - waterproofing?
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) RE: WICKED WATTS RACE RESCHEDULED
by "a.k. howard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Keith, Re: Batts in Ghia's, Helper springs
by keith vansickle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
LPG cars need gas tank, reducer (to vaporise the gas) and a mixer right next
to the inlet manifold. All old LPG systems ran "on demand" the faster the
engine went the more gas was drawn in. It worked very well. Nowadays they
have sequential gas injection which requires all kinds of fancy electronics.
In England quite alot of Go kart centres are running their karts with tiny
gas tanks on. That kind of set up must be applicable to a generator.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 6:44 PM
Subject: OT: converting generator to natural gas
> A couple people have mentioned converting their
> gasoline power genset to operate on natural gas.
> Does anybody have links that show how to do
> this?
> Thanks,
> Rod
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
same principle i thought without the step up in voltage bit
Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:The inverter would be plugged into the
250Vdc system.
--- richard ball wrote:
> you can buy these inverters for camping etc
> i have one that converts 12v dc to 240ac
> it will run 2000 W equipment
> cost was �280 ish here in the uk
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > I think a neat after market product would be a
> > plug in inverter that would supply 230Vac while
> the
> > Prius is running. I wonder how difficult it would
> > be to make something like this?
> > It would be much cleaner than a stand alone
> generator
> > since all of the pollution equipment is already
> > on the vehicle.
> > Rod
>
> At least one of the "mild hybrid" trucks has 120Vac
> outlets in the walls of the
> truck bed. Why do you specifically mention 230Vac?
>
>
>
> Regards
> Richard
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even
> more fun!
Regards
Richard
---------------------------------
ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even more fun!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Victor Tikhonov [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I always thoudht if this would be a good idea - to use
> polarized wind shield glass and headlight lens. Both must
> have the same polarization direction, say 45 degree. Then you
> see own light (and of course the road), but oncoming light
> will be 90 degree polarized vs yours and you will not see it
> at all (in theory). That is of course if *every car* will
> have polarized lighting. Older cars may just have cheap film
> filters in front. If you don't want to get blinded, get the
> polarized wind shield (optional).
>
> Of course light output will be diminished somewhat, but the
> safety benefit may outweigh this shortcoming.
>
> Any thoughts?
Interesting idea, but the polarisation of the light changes upon
reflection so there could be some interesting problems.
If you have used a polarising filter for photography, you will be aware
that incident light from the sun is polarised differently from the same
light reflected by different objects, and so your polarised windshield
could have the effect of reducing visibility in normal daylight driving.
The more interesting problem would be if the combination of polarised
lights and windshield rendered some objects nearly invisible due to the
polarisation of the light reflected from them... ;^>
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi, and thanks to everyone that responding on this topic.
I think I've found a good solution that won't take much re-working. I'm
replacing the Anderson connector (anyone want to buy one? - it's the beefy
Anderson connector, e-mail me if interested) with lugs that I'll bolt together.
I'll put a good layer of heat-shrink tubing with the glue inside over this to
protect it from any moisture. Then I'll be able to disconnect it if ever
needed. I'll just have to cut the layers of heat-shrink tubing off and
re-bolt. I don't anticipate having to disconnect the HV cables, but wanted to
plan for it in case it was needed - hence the Anderson connector. I just can't
believe I didn't forsee the snow/sludge/moisture problem.
I'm contemplating the metal or plastic conduit like several have mentioned. My
question on this post is this: how do you seal the ends of the tubing from
moisture? Moisture wouldn't really hurt the cable, but after a few years, I
can imagine a healthy colony of mold and other fun stuff would start growing in
there.
Thanks,
Hoping to have the 200sx up and running soon,
Ryan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Your quite right Rich, and when I was much younger, chronologically as
apposed to mentally, they couldn't beat the "Why" out of me either :-)
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: U of W project, was Venturi Fetish
Tell this to Rod....
My 2 by 4 has no effect on him anymore.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EVlist" <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 9:50 PM
Subject: Re: U of W project, was Venturi Fetish
Breakage is the mechanical red-light of racing,
If you red-light once in a while you are pushing the edge, if you
red-light a lot, you are loosing.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 1:46 PM -0800 1-12-05, Victor Tikhonov wrote:
I routinely do loose traction on the first gear, therefore
don't like driving on the first. Is there such thing as
too much power (torque)? Yes, if you can't take advantage
of what you alresdy possess, it is too much (for *that* design).
ACRX burns tires just fine, just not my favorite activity.
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Of course, you didn't
mention Victor's AC drives or TS and other li-ion cells, so it
appears you are
concentrating on max (tire-burning) power levels with minimal losses.
Hi Victor,
I'm sure you know this, but others may not and therefore might be
mislead by your statement. Torque is only torque, it is not power.
What one can do in first gear means little. I suspect most of us
don't even use first gear. Power comes in to play at speeds over 40
mph. Especially in situations like merging on a short freeway on ramp.
Also, doesn't your ACRX have a much higher rear weight bias than it
did originally? I seem to recall that it's similar in layout to my
old Sprint. The Sprint was able to scratch the tires in second gear
with only 20KW of power. That car was my no means powerful. It also
had all the batteries in the rear seat area.
Have you done any acceleration tests on your car? I don't seem to
recall seeing it going down the track. I am very curious as to how
quick it is 0-60 or in the 1/4 mile.
I once measured the 0-60 time of my Sprint, but I've forgotten what
it was. I'm pretty sure it was over 20 seconds, it may have even been
30+!
All this is for clarity and curiosity. It is in no way meant to
denigrate what your car does. My Sprint had terrible 0-60 performance
but with its AC drive was a lot of fun around town despite that. It
is still an excellent car for *that* use.
Also, although the AC drives that Victor sells do not put out the
power per dollar that my systems do, they can still be quite powerful
with a high enough pack voltage. They have regen and seem to be very
well engineered. I have a lot of respect for the Siemens AC drives
and I recommend them to people when I think they are the best for
their application.
Have fun!
--
-Otmar-
How many light bulbs does it take to change a philosopher ?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Arghhh, Saturday April 9th is the date we are seriously considering but its
not set in stone yet.
One thing about Las Vegas is we don't have to worry about Tsunamis or
mudslides but I have heard from the past that it can get pretty windy.
I hope you can make it Tim when we finally narrow down the date.
On the bright side, this gives people a couple extra months to finish
getting their rides ready.
We'll keep the list updated on the NEDRA schedule as it develops.
See ya
Chip
NEDRA Webmaster
http://www.nedra.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Humphrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 11:36 AM
Subject: Re: WICKED WATTS RACE RESCHEDULED
> I know the scientific minds on the list will appreciate this one....
>
>
>
> According to the "Farmers Almanac"
>
>
> April 9th, Saturday in the morning
>
> April 8th-11th Unsettled. Windy and showery Nevada, Utah, and parts of
> Arizona, then Pleasant.
>
>
> April 22, Saturday in the evening
>
> April 20th-23rd Fair, then unsettled along the West Coast.
>
>
> May 7th, Saturday in the evening
>
> May 4th-7th, Unsettled; threatening skies over Nevada.
> May 8th-11th, Varying clouds and sun.
>
>
> So far for the Northeast, the almanac has been uncannily correct. And I
> think most here will agree that we are NOT receiving a typical winter.
>
>
> Whenever it is though, I hope to make it......!!
>
>
> > Here we go again with these funky NEDRA race schedules
> >
> > The NEDRA Wicked Watts Race scheduled for February 4-6 has been
postponed.
> >
> > The Las Vegas Speedway is working with us to reshedule the event and has
> > come up with the following dates to to chose from:
> >
> > April 9th, Saturday in the morning
> > April 22, Saturday in the evening
> > May 7th, Saturday in the evening
> >
> > Richard Furniss from the Las Vegas EAA and the NEDRA board will discuss
> > which date we will go with and let everyone know the new race date.
> >
> > Sorry for the incovenience. Apparently, February 4-6 is a big NHRA race
> > weekend for the "Big Boys" and the cost to enter would be $100 to $250
for
> > each vehicle to race. Cost prohibitive for some of us.
> >
> > Anyway, we will let you know the new date.
> >
> > Chip Gribben
> > NEDRA Webmaster
> > http://www.nedra.com
> >
> >
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 16:05:13 -0800, Roger Stockton
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Victor Tikhonov [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > I always thoudht if this would be a good idea - to use
> > polarized wind shield glass and headlight lens.
> > [...]
> [...]
> The more interesting problem would be if the combination of polarised
> lights and windshield rendered some objects nearly invisible due to the
> polarisation of the light reflected from them... ;^>
And then, of course, there's the issue of polarized sunglasses. Tilt
your head a certain way and suddenly your windscreen is (very nearly)
opaque black. Uh-oh!
Apart from that, though (and if oriented right the polarizing would
cut out a good deal of sun glare anyway, making wearing sunglasses
while driving unnecessary) I think it sounds like a good idea.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Did you think about the putty that is used to seal the wire entrance on
your house it stays pliable for years and is available anywhere
electrical supplies are sold.
Mike G.
Ryan Bohm wrote:
Hi, and thanks to everyone that responding on this topic.
I think I've found a good solution that won't take much re-working. I'm
replacing the Anderson connector (anyone want to buy one? - it's the beefy
Anderson connector, e-mail me if interested) with lugs that I'll bolt together.
I'll put a good layer of heat-shrink tubing with the glue inside over this to
protect it from any moisture. Then I'll be able to disconnect it if ever
needed. I'll just have to cut the layers of heat-shrink tubing off and
re-bolt. I don't anticipate having to disconnect the HV cables, but wanted to
plan for it in case it was needed - hence the Anderson connector. I just can't
believe I didn't forsee the snow/sludge/moisture problem.
I'm contemplating the metal or plastic conduit like several have mentioned. My
question on this post is this: how do you seal the ends of the tubing from
moisture? Moisture wouldn't really hurt the cable, but after a few years, I
can imagine a healthy colony of mold and other fun stuff would start growing in
there.
Thanks,
Hoping to have the 200sx up and running soon,
Ryan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Quick question: I'm trying to find the specs for that little chip that
can measure voltage and battery temp using the 1wire interface. Does
anyone remember what that is?
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> I can build the interverter, what I should have added
> to the question (and what I really want to know) is
> how much hacking would you have to do on the Prius
> to get it to work?
I don't have a Prius and don't know more about the
engine control than what I read here and there.
So here goes my line of thought based on a
bunch of assumptions:
- the Prius battery management system likes to keep
the battery around 60% charged, it will charge it
with ICE power
- so while driving the Prius would probably automatically
compensate for the additional draw on the battery
(not sure how much it would tolerate before a
warning light goes on)
- now you would like to use the ICE to generate the
electricity while the Prius is parked. Usually the
prius will most likely always leave the engine off
when parked, no matter how low the SOC is
- BUT, the older PRIUS models had, I believe, an AC
system powered by the ICE. So if you want the ICE
to be running (and thus charging the battery/powering
the inverter) when parked one would have to turn on
the AC to force the ICE to stay on even if the car
is not moving.
Markus
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Keith and All,
What kind of coil over springs did you use? I
have some but they barely helped!
jerry dycus
--- keith vansickle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> I have a bug with 10 orbitals in the front and it
> handles just fine it has spring over shocks I have
> preped the rear to hold another 10 and will soon
> have
> this completed. the car weighs in at 1900 lbs now
> and
> will only weigh 2400 when finished the batts are all
> in. Now all i need is a zilla so it will go quicker
>
> keith
__________________________________
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Yahoo! Mail - Find what you need with new enhanced search.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Otmar wrote:
Hi Victor,
I'm sure you know this, but others may not and therefore might be
mislead by your statement. Torque is only torque, it is not power. What
one can do in first gear means little. I suspect most of us don't even
use first gear. Power comes in to play at speeds over 40 mph. Especially
in situations like merging on a short freeway on ramp.
Yes, I understand this, and hope others are too. Max power I can get
(provided the *battery* can give it but this is the same limitation
AC or DC drive) is 100kW input - 380V*282A. For your system it is
I believe 336V*2000A? This would be 600kW, sort of almost a crow bar
to the motors! :) So, yes, from the dead stop it is easy to chirp
the tires even with 100 kW, but once you move 40-50 mph do it again
requires lots more power. You may be able to do it, I can't.
Also, doesn't your ACRX have a much higher rear weight bias than it did
originally? I seem to recall that it's similar in layout to my old
Sprint.
Now with lighter rear, the weight distribution is much closer to the
stock - as if I have a passenger and cargo.
The Sprint was able to scratch the tires in second gear with
only 20KW of power. That car was my no means powerful. It also had all
the batteries in the rear seat area.
Most of the weight is certainly in front, I suspect it is close to
55/45.
Have you done any acceleration tests on your car? I don't seem to recall
seeing it going down the track. I am very curious as to how quick it is
0-60 or in the 1/4 mile.
I'm not racing head and you won't see me on the track (unless I get
really mad after I get really rich, then I may built something else :-))
Acceleration on the second grar is not as good as on the first - the
same phenomena as for EV1 and other AC vehicles - in effect as if the
controller is current limited. On Atarting from first is very
quick, but I don't have my clutch working - it is so stiff that the
cord stretches enough to prevent disengaging - so I can't accelerate
on first and quickly through to the second gear as would be ideal
to minimize 0-60 time. At 45 mph I'm at about 6000 RPM on the first
gear, so if 0-45 will somewhat satisfy your curiosity, I can test that.
I once measured the 0-60 time of my Sprint, but I've forgotten what it
was. I'm pretty sure it was over 20 seconds, it may have even been 30+!
Let me try on the second gear and I'll report the result.
All this is for clarity and curiosity. It is in no way meant to
denigrate what your car does. My Sprint had terrible 0-60 performance
but with its AC drive was a lot of fun around town despite that. It is
still an excellent car for *that* use.
ACRX performance is very good, but this is of course subjective.
I'll get you the number.
Also, although the AC drives that Victor sells do not put out the power
per dollar that my systems do, they can still be quite powerful with a
high enough pack voltage. They have regen and seem to be very well
engineered. I have a lot of respect for the Siemens AC drives and I
recommend them to people when I think they are the best for their
application.
Have fun!
Thanks for opinion Otmar.
The fact is, you can get any power level system, AC or DC including
too much for a car. When you talk dollars, no doubt simple but powerful
DC system is still ahead. No one makes simple AC ones. But if we take
sophisticated DC system like yours, the cost end up being about the
same, see the Q&A on my site.
The cost is not technical property though, in my case it has
a lot to do with currency exchange rates and other factors dealing with
overseas suppliers you (or any local manufacturer) don't have to deal
with. Advantages as well as shortcomings of AC systems are well known,
and everyone picks the system type according to their priorities.
A system is suppose to work well with existing cas subsystems -
gear box, suspension, etc. Properly sized, AC system already provides
more than former ICE use to, this is about how Siemens came up with
100 kW number for cars. No more no less. Do they have problems to build
600-1000 kW systems? No. Dual Elfa is good example. Megawatts are their
specialties. Just makes no sense because the rest of normal standard
production vehicle they target, is not up to this. So why bother with
more power?
I fully realize the fun of upgrading vehicles, twisting off shafts,
breaking CV joints, stripping gears etc. You know better than me what
the power can do.
This activity is not what Siemens had in mind when they decided
how to built an OEM system appealing to majority of "normal" customers.
That's the philosophy, and so far it serves them and us very well.
Racing people are special, and I respect them all. They hardly fit
definition of "normal", and for them 0-60 talk is of course first
priority. Don't know about others, but to me if my 0-60 is better than
that of almost anyone around me, this is good enough. Actually more fun
than if I'd have more power because no worries to break anything.
I don't care what actual 0-60 number is if I am quicker than any OEM
stock car next to me. And I am, with my current setup which
happen cost me about the same as yours.
Currently I'm barely at 300V since 6 LiIon cells are not working
(my fault), so the 0-60 result will not be as good as could have.
Nevertheless, I will do the test. What is the best way? Watch the speedo
with a stopwatch, or videotape them both for examination later?
Lastly, thanks for recommending an AC drive when you think it is best
for the application, although I suspect our understanding of "the best"
likely to differ. It is really as much "for person" as "for aplication".
Please tell me, in your opinion what is "the best" for such application
as my Honda CRX and why (without *me* in the picture)? You will realise
the answer is not as straightforward as one may think.
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Note: forwarded message attached.
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I have a 1200W inverter hard-wired (with a 100A fuse)
to the 12V battery of my '04 Prius. When parked, it
will only start the ICE to recharge the HV pack when
the HV pack is low. The 12V system is powered by a
13.8V liquid cooled DC-DC converter capable of more
than 100A.
Ed Ang
--- Markus L <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > I can build the interverter, what I should have
> added
> > to the question (and what I really want to know)
> is
> > how much hacking would you have to do on the Prius
> > to get it to work?
>
>
> I don't have a Prius and don't know more about the
> engine control than what I read here and there.
> So here goes my line of thought based on a
> bunch of assumptions:
>
> - the Prius battery management system likes to keep
> the battery around 60% charged, it will charge it
> with ICE power
> - so while driving the Prius would probably
> automatically
> compensate for the additional draw on the battery
> (not sure how much it would tolerate before a
> warning light goes on)
> - now you would like to use the ICE to generate the
> electricity while the Prius is parked. Usually the
> prius will most likely always leave the engine off
> when parked, no matter how low the SOC is
> - BUT, the older PRIUS models had, I believe, an AC
> system powered by the ICE. So if you want the ICE
> to be running (and thus charging the
> battery/powering
> the inverter) when parked one would have to turn on
> the AC to force the ICE to stay on even if the car
> is not moving.
>
> Markus
>
>
__________________________________
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Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You bet - I am working with it ask we speak! It is the Dallas Semiconductor
DS-2436. The DS-2438 is the deluxe version.
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Chris Zach
Sent: January 12, 2005 7:43 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Looking for that 1 wire voltage monitor chip
Quick question: I'm trying to find the specs for that little chip that can
measure voltage and battery temp using the 1wire interface. Does anyone
remember what that is?
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'll second that. No problems using my 1st Gen '02 Prius
in the same fashion. It restarts the ICE as needed to top
off the traction pack, as the DC-DC runs it down.
http://www.geocities.com/priusmods/Inverter/Inverter.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Ang" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 11:09 PM
Subject: RE: OT prius generator
I have a 1200W inverter hard-wired (with a 100A fuse)
to the 12V battery of my '04 Prius. When parked, it
will only start the ICE to recharge the HV pack when
the HV pack is low. The 12V system is powered by a
13.8V liquid cooled DC-DC converter capable of more
than 100A.
Ed Ang
I don't have a Prius and don't know more about the
engine control than what I read here and there.
So here goes my line of thought based on a
bunch of assumptions:
...
- now you would like to use the ICE to generate the
electricity while the Prius is parked. Usually the
prius will most likely always leave the engine off
when parked, no matter how low the SOC is
- BUT, the older PRIUS models had, I believe, an AC
system powered by the ICE. So if you want the ICE
to be running (and thus charging the
battery/powering
the inverter) when parked one would have to turn on
the AC to force the ICE to stay on even if the car
is not moving.
Markus
Not true, Markus.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.jsonline.com/bym/news/jan05/292378.asp
The 28-volt tools have more power than conventional 18-volt tools, and about
twice the
battery life, according to the Brookfield-based company. They are the first
28-volt
models in the cordless tool industry, the company said.
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--- Begin Message ---
Be Careful.
Flooded NiCd batteries behave differently at end of charge than cylindrical
tool batteries. The tool battery has a negative voltage gradient that shuts
off the charger whereas the flooded battery does not. If the voltage drop is
not detected, the charger will never shut off.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Cc: "Zappylist" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, January 06, 2005 12:20 AM
Subject: Ni Cad Charging
> I'm going to simplify my Nicad Pack Charging. I saw some DeWalt 24v
> chargers on Ebay. 30 bucks each. 5 would do the trick for a 120v pack
give
> or take. I could add a couple of batteries or subtract a couple or find
> chargers that equal 120v. Would that fix my charger problem? Lawrence
> Rhodes.....I'm goin one string in a recumbent MC. Lawrence Rhodes.......
> Lawrence Rhodes
> Bassoon/Contrabassoon
> Book 4/5 doubler
> Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 415-821-3519
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> I have a 1200W inverter hard-wired (with a 100A fuse)
> to the 12V battery of my '04 Prius. When parked, it
> will only start the ICE to recharge the HV pack when
> the HV pack is low. The 12V system is powered by a
> 13.8V liquid cooled DC-DC converter capable of more
> than 100A.
>
> Ed Ang
>
Are there any inverters that go directly from HV DC to AC? I know any of you
EE's out there can build one, but is there anything on the market for everyday
Prius owners (or EV owners who use HV setups)? Seems like there might be a
market for this! This would eliminate a step from using a dc-to-dc (HV-to-LV)
to fuel an dc-to-ac (LV-to-HVAC).
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have already made arrangements for my driver, Scotty Pollacheck, to be
there. Thus, I am going to be there with the KillaCycle on Feb 5th,
regardless. I have made some modifications, so it should be exciting.
At 09:20 PM 1/11/2005, you wrote:
Here we go again with these funky NEDRA race schedules
The NEDRA Wicked Watts Race scheduled for February 4-6 has been postponed.
The Las Vegas Speedway is working with us to reshedule the event and has
come up with the following dates to to chose from:
April 9th, Saturday in the morning
April 22, Saturday in the evening
May 7th, Saturday in the evening
Richard Furniss from the Las Vegas EAA and the NEDRA board will discuss
which date we will go with and let everyone know the new race date.
Sorry for the incovenience. Apparently, February 4-6 is a big NHRA race
weekend for the "Big Boys" and the cost to enter would be $100 to $250 for
each vehicle to race. Cost prohibitive for some of us.
Anyway, we will let you know the new date.
Chip Gribben
NEDRA Webmaster
http://www.nedra.com
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 01:13 PM 1/12/2005, you wrote:
Well Bill...
very nice dialog..
And I actually by it.
But .....I still see things a little different that most...
What I don't understand is why I have the results of "C" while using a
Modified version of "A".
What I am probably seeing is that Getting all the Kw back into the battery,
and having as little gassing as I can manage, results in Something like "C":
where the Regs end up bouncing the finish voltage around just enough to Gas
but not Vent the battery. All the while every peak pulse drives the battery
up to 14.8. For a couple of seconds.
You can't just put in what you took out. You must put in an extra
3% or 4% to fully charge the negative plate. If you don't overcharge by 3%
or 4%, the negative plate will fall behind every cycle and will sulfate.
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bill Dube' wrote:
C) You can apply the overcharge intermittently. That is, you can apply a
modest current (about 2 amps for an Optima) for, say, 30 seconds, and then
"rest" for 30 seconds. This 30 second "pulse" supplies the voltage needed
to remove sulfation, but does not create large gas bubbles. The 30 second
"rest" allows time for the gas to recombine to water. Thus, you fully
charge the negative plate, remove any sulfation, and lose very little
water.
The disadvantage is this "pulse" in the finish charge is not
something that a simple (read "cheap") charger can do.
<snip>
You can choose what you want to do; Spend the money on the
charger
or spend the money on replacement batteries. :^)
Hi Bill, and all
What I'm going to attempt to achieve with my Orbitals is as follows:
Transformer charger, maximum amps (20A or so into each string) until first
regulator reaches bypass voltage.
Reduce charging rate and continue until all regulators are bypassing.
Time to allow all batteries to settle to this state of charge.
Inhibit the regulators and pulse charge at around 10 amps 15 seconds on, 45
seconds off, for a certain time, to add that negative plate charge).
The charger is relatively cheap, a rewound forklift charger. Rudman regs,
with a 'piggyback' pcb on each one, that allows the additional interfacing.
A small industrial PLC to do the sequencing (I know a micro or pic could
also do it, but I'm an industrial tech).
See any problem with this?
Thanks.
Regards
James Massey
Launceston, Tasmania, Australia.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Steve, LPG isn't quite the same as natural gas (and do you mean CNG or
LNG, Rod?). Honda offer an LPG kit for their air-cooled engines,
vacuum demand type. This may work to some extent with LNG but I'm not
sure.
Regards
Evan.
On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 22:26:47 -0000, steve ollerton
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> LPG cars need gas tank, reducer (to vaporise the gas) and a mixer right next
> to the inlet manifold. All old LPG systems ran "on demand" the faster the
> engine went the more gas was drawn in. It worked very well. Nowadays they
> have sequential gas injection which requires all kinds of fancy electronics.
> In England quite alot of Go kart centres are running their karts with tiny
> gas tanks on. That kind of set up must be applicable to a generator.
>
> Steve
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 6:44 PM
> Subject: OT: converting generator to natural gas
>
> > A couple people have mentioned converting their
> > gasoline power genset to operate on natural gas.
> > Does anybody have links that show how to do
> > this?
> > Thanks,
> > Rod
> >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You can used electrical duct putty, which comes in 5 lbs block, it is gray
color. I find that I like 3-M windshield putty that comes in 1/8 by 12
strips. It is much more sticky, and does not shrink back like the duct
putty. This comes in black, gray and white.
Plumbers putty does not work as good. It needs to be under pressure between
two flanges. It will greatly shrink back if not under pressure and drys out
somewhat.
I used the 3-M strip caulking for all my entrances of battery cables going
into my battery enclosures. When going thru a bulkhead, used a electrical
chase nipple in sheet metal hole cuts, or I used white PVC plumbing adapters
in my white epoxy coated battery boxes.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: Wiring on underside - waterproofing?
> Did you think about the putty that is used to seal the wire entrance on
> your house it stays pliable for years and is available anywhere
> electrical supplies are sold.
> Mike G.
>
> Ryan Bohm wrote:
>
> >Hi, and thanks to everyone that responding on this topic.
> >
> >I think I've found a good solution that won't take much re-working. I'm
> >replacing the Anderson connector (anyone want to buy one? - it's the
> >beefy Anderson connector, e-mail me if interested) with lugs that I'll
> >bolt together. I'll put a good layer of heat-shrink tubing with the glue
> >inside over this to protect it from any moisture. Then I'll be able to
> >disconnect it if ever needed. I'll just have to cut the layers of
> >heat-shrink tubing off and re-bolt. I don't anticipate having to
> >disconnect the HV cables, but wanted to plan for it in case it was
> >needed - hence the Anderson connector. I just can't believe I didn't
> >forsee the snow/sludge/moisture problem.
> >
> >I'm contemplating the metal or plastic conduit like several have
> >mentioned. My question on this post is this: how do you seal the ends of
> >the tubing from moisture? Moisture wouldn't really hurt the cable, but
> >after a few years, I can imagine a healthy colony of mold and other fun
> >stuff would start growing in there.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Hoping to have the 200sx up and running soon,
> >
> >Ryan
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
One more thing, I forgot to add. If you are using standard conduit, that is
galvanize, you should prime and paint this conduit before installing. This
galvanize conduit will rust at contact points that do not drain and not in a
direct sun lite.
It is best to use a plastic conduct, that you can put in offsets or even 90
degree bends by using a high power heat gun or heat light. If you could,
used box connecters on the end of these conduits which will connect to a
bulkhead like a conduit to a junction box.
If not, still used box connecters on each end and install a plastic conduit
bushing for smooth entrance of wire into the conduit.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: Wiring on underside - waterproofing?
> Did you think about the putty that is used to seal the wire entrance on
> your house it stays pliable for years and is available anywhere
> electrical supplies are sold.
> Mike G.
>
> Ryan Bohm wrote:
>
> >Hi, and thanks to everyone that responding on this topic.
> >
> >I think I've found a good solution that won't take much re-working. I'm
> >replacing the Anderson connector (anyone want to buy one? - it's the
> >beefy Anderson connector, e-mail me if interested) with lugs that I'll
> >bolt together. I'll put a good layer of heat-shrink tubing with the glue
> >inside over this to protect it from any moisture. Then I'll be able to
> >disconnect it if ever needed. I'll just have to cut the layers of
> >heat-shrink tubing off and re-bolt. I don't anticipate having to
> >disconnect the HV cables, but wanted to plan for it in case it was
> >needed - hence the Anderson connector. I just can't believe I didn't
> >forsee the snow/sludge/moisture problem.
> >
> >I'm contemplating the metal or plastic conduit like several have
> >mentioned. My question on this post is this: how do you seal the ends of
> >the tubing from moisture? Moisture wouldn't really hurt the cable, but
> >after a few years, I can imagine a healthy colony of mold and other fun
> >stuff would start growing in there.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Hoping to have the 200sx up and running soon,
> >
> >Ryan
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: "Chip Gribben" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: WICKED WATTS RACE RESCHEDULED
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 23:20:13 -0500
Here we go again with these funky NEDRA race schedules
The NEDRA Wicked Watts Race scheduled for February 4-6 has been postponed.
The Las Vegas Speedway is working with us to reshedule the event and has
come up with the following dates to to chose from:
April 9th, Saturday in the morning
April 22, Saturday in the evening
May 7th, Saturday in the evening
I really think we should schedule the race after April 15, tax season
will be over. Regards A.K. Howard, Las Vegas, NV and staying warm with 8
cent kwh.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
don't have the info now but will go crawl undr the car
an see if there is anything written on them when I get
home today
--- jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi Keith and All,
> What kind of coil over springs did you use? I
> have some but they barely helped!
> jerry dycus
> --- keith vansickle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>
> > I have a bug with 10 orbitals in the front and it
> > handles just fine it has spring over shocks I have
> > preped the rear to hold another 10 and will soon
> > have
> > this completed. the car weighs in at 1900 lbs now
> > and
> > will only weigh 2400 when finished the batts are
> all
> > in. Now all i need is a zilla so it will go
> quicker
> >
> > keith
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
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> search.
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>
>
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