EV Digest 4082
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Free CAD Program?
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: Fringengineer? was Re: High Voltage - let go!
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) What does ELIISA stand for?
by "EAA-contact" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: GE forklift "EV100" controller on Ebay
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Oklahoma EV Test
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Prius +
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re:tire growth
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Free CAD Program?
by "Paul Compton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Free CAD Program?
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Converting a Dodge Caravan
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
11) RE: Fringengineer? was Re: High Voltage - let go!
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: High Voltage - let go!
by "David (Battery Boy) Hawkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: Free CAD Program?
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Fringengineer? was Re: High Voltage - let go!
by Catbus Mike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Maniac Mazda more Street than White Zombie? OT: Zombie Range
by "John Westlund" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Converting a Dodge Caravan
by "David (Battery Boy) Hawkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) FYI: Do you have an aftermarket Tach or Speedometer?
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Free CAD Program?
by "James F. Jarrett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) What does ELIICA stand for?
by "EAA-contact" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: GE forklift "EV100" controller on Ebay
by Richard Bebbington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Prius +
by Bob Siebert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Prius +
by Bob Siebert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: Maniac Mazda more Street than White Zombie? OT: Zombie Range
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Prius +
by Bob Siebert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: High Voltage - let go!
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) RE: tire growth
by "Ivo Jara G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Prius +
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re:tire growth
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: tire growth
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Liquid glove (Re: High Voltage..)
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) 42-volt starting batteries
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) EV Album (was Re:tire growth)
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I test fit my ElectroAuto (http://www.electroauto.com) taperlock hub
to make some measurements for making my adapter plates.
Side comment: The EA hub is a thing of beauty! The Porsche has 6
flywheel bolts that are slightly asymmetrically placed. The hub has
this right, has enough room for my tranny input shaft, and is close
to being as small as possible. It fits onto the motor shaft with no
freeplay, and my flywheel fits onto it with no freeplay -- just
perfect. Since the hub is such a crucial and high-speed piece I
elected to buy it instead of make it.
Now onto the real question: What is a good CAD program to draw up my
adapter plates? Emachineshop (http://www.emachineshop.com) has a nice
simple CAD program they'll use to make your part. I haven't been able
to figure out how to print dimensions on the drawing, though, anyone
figured that out? Question B: Is there a free CAD program worth
using? My goals are just to have a diagram to work from, have the
double-check of the computer that dimensions agree, and to document
what I do.
Another side note: Using Emachineshop to build your adapter costs
more than just buying one from EA!
=====
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
All your favorites on one personal page � Try My Yahoo!
http://my.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roy LeMeur [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I am afraid that I have drawn the elusive "Fringengineer" out of his
> hideyhole here.
I'm not sure why you think this. NFPA 70E *is* the appropriate standard
for electrical arc hazard.
For $38.25 anyone can get a copy and confrim/refute the information in
the post:
http://www.maintenanceresources.com/bookstore/electrical/nfpa2.htm
Catbus Mike [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> "Arc Flash Point. This is where your engulfed in a plasma
> ball that is ten times hotter then the sun. For the EVers
> this should not be an issue but you need to know that it
> takes 480v (577 peak) and 10,000 amps to vaporized yourself.
> I'm fearful that someday someone will build a EV with 600v
> motor and some really fast batteries."
> Who figured out that it'd take 4.8 Megawatts to vaporize a person and
> why and what drugs they where doing?
Actually, the link below states that 10000A @ 480V is about 8MW (assumes
3-phase AC?), and is roughly equivalent to 8 sticks of dynamite... it
doesn't seem all that surprising that 8 sticks of dynamite would
'vaporise' a person (or even 4.8 sticks).
Electrical arc flash hazard is real and is of very practical interest to
the industry. People die from electrical arc exposure:
http://www.mt-online.com/articles/0204arcflash.cfm
I certainly can't corroborate or refute the [EMAIL PROTECTED],000A claim, but
reading a few of the accident reports at this site certainly suggests
that at 480VAC arcs are possible that will result in fatal burns:
http://www.nascoinc.com/arc/breakeraccidents.htm
There is freeware available at the following site that allows you to
estimate the heat energy of an electrical arc given its voltage,
current, etc. and the distance from the arc. I don't know where one
would find out what the latent heat of vaporisation is for humans ;^>,
but assuming you can find this, it should be possible to compute how far
from an arc of a given voltage/current you would need to be to avoid
this condition:
http://www.nascoinc.com/archaz.htm
More interesting reading on electrical arc flash hazard:
http://www.ul.com/regulators/ode/0502.pdf
http://www.cdc.gov/elcosh/docs/d0500/d000580/d000580.html (indicates
that an arc can heat the air to 35,000F, which I suspect is plenty to
vaporise a human ;^)
johnk [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I really think there's a need for a EV builders safety
> manual and best practices guide. More and more people will be
> rolling their own EV's and it would be real nice if not one
> of them got hurt.
I couldn't agree more. One thing that jumps out at me from the arc
flash literature is that synthetic fabrics are an extremely poor choice,
yet they are exactly what EVers are advised to wear around flooded lead
acid batteries because natural fabrics are susceptible to damage from
the electrolyte.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I thought I saw a recent email from someone who had a
definition for "ELIISA", but I can't find it. Anyone
know if this is an abbrev. for something tangible?
-Ed
This is for the Eliisa EV in Japan, successor of the KAZ. I thought someone
described it as Electric Lithium Ion .....
_______________________________________________
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich Rudman [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Guys, please don't scare me like that!!!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2005 1:42 AM
> Subject: Re: GE forklift "EV100" controller on Ebay
>
>
> > On Mon, 07 Feb 2005 22:37:14 +0000, Richard Bebbington
> > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > ( I'm now waiting for DHL/HM Customs to give
> > > me my shiny new PFC30 that Rich Rudman sent over.
> > > It's so close....yet so far away... it's torture! ;-)
> >
> > Hey Richard.. I hope it's CE marked, or they might keep it!
> >
> > Just kidding, hope it arrives soon :)
Rich, Evan might have been kidding, but he is right about the CE mark
and customs possibly preventing Richard from receiving it:
http://www.ce-marking.org/what-is-ce-marking.html (note point #4, in
particular)
and:
http://www.ce-marking.org/what-product.html
Hopefully it does get through to Richard...
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>From: "Ivan Workman"
>Does anyone know what is on the Oklahoma EV Test? Is
>it easy to pass? Is it even worth taking?
Are you referring to this or something else?
http://www.evtraining.com/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does anyone recall the name/address of the folks working on the plug-in
Prius?
There is Yahoo Prius group that is very active where this is being
done/discussed
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/2004-prius/
Roy LeMeur Olympia, WA
My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
EV Parts/Gone Postal Photo Galleries:
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/page01.htm
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>From: "Rich Rudman"
>Ok folks I have not been paying much attention to the EV
>photo album...
>where do I send this Shot of Dennis's Current Eliminator.
Just upload it too here for the time being:
http://www.imageshack.us/
I want to see it!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Is there a free CAD program worth
using? My goals are just to have a diagram to work from, have the
double-check of the computer that dimensions agree, and to document
what I do.
You used to be able to download a full version (minus some third party
tools) of Turbocad 4 from IMSI, but they seem to have removed the option.
They're up to version 10.5 now and you can buy earlier versions (new; boxed)
very cheaply on amazon or ebay.
Paul Compton
www.sciroccoev.co.uk
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>From: "David Dymaxion"
> Emachineshop (http://www.emachineshop.com) has a nice
>simple CAD program they'll use to make your part. I haven't
>been able
>to figure out how to print dimensions on the drawing,
>though, anyone
>figured that out?
If for some reason it doesn't have an option to print it
out.. There is another way if you want a "hard copy" of
what is on the screen. Get what you want to show up on the
screen. Press the "Print Screen" key on your keyboard.
That will take a screenshot of your entire screen and put it
into Windows "clipboard". Then, open up a graphics
program(Photo Shop?), or even MS Paint, and choose "edit"
from the menu and then select "paste". Or just press
Control V to paste it into the program. Then you can print
that out using whatever program you pasted it into..
Misc tips:
Press Alt Print Screen and it will only take a pic of the
program that is "open" and not the entire desktop.
Here is a really good, free image program:
http://www.irfanview.com/ . I like it best. Some people
like this program better: http://www.xnview.com/ . Here is
a sort of "freeware" version of PhotoShop:
http://www.gimp.org/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Keep in mind that with dual dc motors, you can use a series-parallel
setup. This will make it more similar to a two speed transmission.
- Steven Ciciora
> Good points Mike, and I think that your greater empirical experience with
> the TEVan should be definately considered. I was just going by the single
> gear reduction used in my G-vans. Then again the motor in that is pretty
> "big". I do like your idea of the dual motor setup, could this be done
> with
> a pair of smaller lighter motors to save weight? Anyway, I have my hands
> full enough with my other van problems to think of converting the Dodge.
> Batteries are the bugaboo. Tom just told me that Bill M got tired of
> fighting the BB600 (750 cell pack) problems in his G-van and sold it. Hope
> he didn't include the Chloride charger we loaned him in the deal, LOL.
> BTW,
> I tried to find my G-van photos in the TP and it appears to not have
> survived the "migration"? Or are you just mad at me? LOL. TTYL David
> Chapman.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This has been one of the benefits of working on a motorcycle at only 48V.
Little mistakes don't hurt as bad. Of course using a variac for charging
offsets this convenience a bit :-)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Peter,
Operator's Manual for the 260-6XLP and 6XLPM (Naval use in early '80s),
page 1-4:
"The maximum current drawn from the 1.5V ['D' cell] battery is 250 mA (RX1
with test leads shorted)."
>Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2005 18:57:19 -0700 (MST)
>From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
<snipage>
>
>I'm not even sure the Simpson 260 can source that much current on the test
>leads. Anyone have a Simpson 260? How much current does it put out went
>set to the x1 ohms scale?
<snip>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I evaluated several CAD packages. I was looking for something that would
support 2D drawings with dimensions and the ability to easily work in 3D as
well. I tried a number of different packages and was very disappointed with
most of them. Here is the list
DeltaCAD Pro $40 no 3D
CadStd Pro $33 Cheapo software, no 3D
SoftCad Architectural
Cadmax Solid Master $300 Works well, difficult UI
Varicad $400 So-So UI, can't overlay
image
VX Basic online demo - pain in the ass,
went no further.
TurboCad $700 has everything, but
expensive
Alibre $795 too expensive
Graphite (was called Vellum) $1000 too expensive
ProDesktop $995 highly rated - but expensive
IntelliCAD 4 Std $250 OK UI, cannot move
2d to 3d, cannot turn 3d into drafting docs
Cadvance $1995 ouch
Design CAD 3d Max $150 Poor manual, but
great voluteer user support, does 2d and 3d well
All of the ones I tested had a pretty crappy UI. It is not the typical
Windows UI, there are all sorts of commands that need to be
memorized etc. Given that, the most cost effective was the Design CAD 3D
Max. It took a bit of work getting used to it, but with the great help from
the user website, I was able to create all the drawings on my web site.
Once again, I am interested in 2D drawings as well as turning those into 3D.
In Design CAD 3D Max, it is easy to flip between 2D and 3D.
Good Luck
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of David Dymaxion
Sent: February 8, 2005 11:14 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Free CAD Program?
I test fit my ElectroAuto (http://www.electroauto.com) taperlock hub to make
some measurements for making my adapter plates.
Side comment: The EA hub is a thing of beauty! The Porsche has 6 flywheel
bolts that are slightly asymmetrically placed. The hub has this right, has
enough room for my tranny input shaft, and is close to being as small as
possible. It fits onto the motor shaft with no freeplay, and my flywheel
fits onto it with no freeplay -- just perfect. Since the hub is such a
crucial and high-speed piece I elected to buy it instead of make it.
Now onto the real question: What is a good CAD program to draw up my adapter
plates? Emachineshop (http://www.emachineshop.com) has a nice simple CAD
program they'll use to make your part. I haven't been able to figure out how
to print dimensions on the drawing, though, anyone figured that out?
Question B: Is there a free CAD program worth using? My goals are just to
have a diagram to work from, have the double-check of the computer that
dimensions agree, and to document what I do.
Another side note: Using Emachineshop to build your adapter costs more than
just buying one from EA!
=====
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
All your favorites on one personal page Try My Yahoo!
http://my.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roger Stockton wrote:
Catbus Mike [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
"Arc Flash Point. This is where your engulfed in a plasma
ball that is ten times hotter then the sun. For the EVers
this should not be an issue but you need to know that it
takes 480v (577 peak) and 10,000 amps to vaporized yourself.
I'm fearful that someday someone will build a EV with 600v
motor and some really fast batteries."
Who figured out that it'd take 4.8 Megawatts to vaporize a person and
why and what drugs they where doing?
Actually, the link below states that 10000A @ 480V is about 8MW (assumes
3-phase AC?), and is roughly equivalent to 8 sticks of dynamite... it
doesn't seem all that surprising that 8 sticks of dynamite would
'vaporise' a person (or even 4.8 sticks).
Oops, was assuming single phase pure resistive load, not sure I did that
math right either...
Of course if you where near, but not directly in the arc, you'd manifest
as single turn inductive load.
There'd probably be a fair capacitive component, at least until enough
of your high Ohm skin was zorched.
johnk [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I really think there's a need for a EV builders safety
manual and best practices guide. More and more people will be
rolling their own EV's and it would be real nice if not one
of them got hurt.
I couldn't agree more. One thing that jumps out at me from the arc
flash literature is that synthetic fabrics are an extremely poor choice,
yet they are exactly what EVers are advised to wear around flooded lead
acid batteries because natural fabrics are susceptible to damage from
the electrolyte.
Cheers,
Roger.
So it sounds like a natural material with a good wax coating might be
best, so we should all invest in good motorcycle leathers?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart wrote:
>Lots of factors enter into it. The battery weight
>isn't as important as
>the percentage of the total weight that is
>batteries. The tZero for
>example had nearly 50% of its total weight in
>batteries to get that 100
>mile range.
I'm looking at about 40% battery weight with perhaps better
aerodynamics than the TZero. Stock Cd of my car is .32 with
a 14.9 square foot cross sectional area. The convertable
version of it has .42 with top down and a slightly larger
frontal area. I don't see any reason why I couldn't shave
the drag down significantly.
>Next, range is all about efficiency; how much energy
>does it take to
>push the car down the road. Normal cars are
>terrible -- aerodynamics are
>a joke (really about styling). Every part in the
>system (tires,
>transaxle, wheel alignment, brakes, motor, etc.) is
>designed with
>efficiency considered just about last. *Everything
>else* is more
>important than efficiency!
My car as it is sitting in the driveway is anything but a
one-finger car. The alignment has yet to be adjusted for
zero toe, the tires are anything but LRR, brakes drag like
crazy. Improvements will be made.
>Maybe. That's only 9kw; under 10hp. Not enough to
>get any normal sized car up to 65mph.
This car is anything but normal sized. Frontal area is less
than 15 square feet, and stock, weighs only 1,780 pounds.
The roof is about 47 inches off the ground, and I intend to
and could potentially lower it 1.5-2 inches closer to the
ground like the racers do with these. I'm only 5'11'', about
130 pounds, and I have difficulty getting in and out of this
thing. It is small! I remember reading in the archives and
seeing Wayland comment that his Blue Meanie with 156V only
needed 40-45 amps to go 60 MPH. My car is probably much more
aerodynamic than that Datsun was stock, and stock mine was
only about 200 pounds heavier. I do believe that was EV
digest 2448 where he mentioned that, although I'm not 100%
sure.
300V of Optimas or Orbitals in a more aero car should yield
significantly less draw on the highway. At least I'd hope
so.
I'm going to get obsessive about hunting down and cutting
drag, like John Bryan did with his Ghia. I may even go the
covered rear wheel route, although I earlier shunned that
idea.
>Also, 300v of Optimas is 1125 lbs. I missed it; what
>kind of car are you
>putting them in that weighs only 1475 lbs (so 1475 +
>1125 = 2600 lbs
>curb weight)?
1969 Triumph GT6+. Stock weighs 1,780. I got some specifics
on the weight of the engine and its ancillaries(+ radiator,
exhaust, ect.). 470 pounds. The battery that came in the car
is 31 pounds. I got a number on the empty gas tank's weight,
22 pounds. Spare tire is 35 pounds. About 15 pounds of
carpets, 25 pounds of sound deadener to be scraped. 50
pounds could be lost replacing the stock seats with Mazda
Miata seats. The wood panel dash will also be stripped. I
want to give the car the sort of interior look that Chris
Wilson's Kharmen Ghia has:
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/378c.jpg
Add in a decent but not competition sound system.
I'm looking at an 1,150 pound glider with a 2,350 pound
GVWR. Add in my weight as driver, small first aid kit, a can
of fix-a-flat, and a small tool kit and 2,600 pounds curb
weight looks to be completely in the realm of possibility,
without even going to fiberglass doors/bonnet and lighter
weight racing windows. And I do intend to take those
modifications post conversion anyway(Except for bonnet. I
may install a LeMans bonnet before I drive it as an EV,
which would lose about 40 pounds off the car). With
additional mods, 2,400 pounds and under may be fully
possible, which would make the car have half its weight in
batteries.
Next step is getting it weighed front and rear before
stripping everything out. With some work, I may be able to
fit that 300V pack. I'll be able to fit 204V, I am certain,
without even going into the trunk space or creatively
cutting up the car and sinking the batteries below the trunk
area.
>That's true at 30 amps, taking them to essentially
>100% DOD.
Yes. I was always under the impression Rudman's figures were
also to 100% DoD. If they are not, then I will be a bit
happier with the discrepancy as it will make sense then. I
don't intend going more than 80% DoD, and on a regular basis
50% or so DoD will be the norm. But I prefer to look at the
total 100% DoD range as I can scale all my calculations from
there.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike,
No, not smoked motor in my case, but smoked controller, as driving in third gear is why we now have a Z1K Zilla instead of the old T-Rex! The RX-7 had lost first and second gear at Bandimere's, and we had been driving it around in third gear. This was working great until I attempted a steep "slow" climb in the nearby foothills and the controller went into thermal cut-back (a little too late). This was while searching for our video camera that the teenagers had left on a car during a bonfire party, but that's another story! I immediately stopped and the H2O cooling system was indeed hot and the controller had a burnt smell, but after letting it cool down all seemed fine and it worked normally for about two weeks, when it cut-back again and than refused to go above 50 amps. It smelled of burnt silicon, like I let the smoke out! Obviously the DCP temperature sensor didn't shut the controller down in time to prevent damaging it. Although Damon said they would repair it, after I paid to ship it back (again!), Jeff said they were no longer repairing the power stage of the T-Rex and Raptor controllers. I hope I don't have any trouble with the Raptor in the truck, knock on wood...
Dave (B.B.) Hawkins
Member of the Denver Electric Vehicle Council:
http://www.devc.org/
Card carrying member and former racer with The National Electric Drag Racing Association:
http://www.nedra.com/
Lyons, CO
1979 Mazda RX-7 EV (192V of YT's for the teenagers)
1989 Chevy S10 Ext. Cab (144V of floodies, for Ma and Pa only!)
>Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2005 19:30:52 -0600
>From: Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
<snipage>
>
>That is just a bit lower than 3rd gear (4.69) on my Civic. If I tried to
>drive the Civic in 3rd all the time, it would become a horrible amp sucking
>dog. Fine on the highway, but impossible on hills or in stop and go traffic.
>
>This kind of conversion might work well with an AC drive motor and it
>higher rpm limits, and thus a numerically higher gear (ie 2nd instead of
>3rd), or with a modified high rpm DC motor, but with a stock 9"? Smells
>like smoked motor to me, unless you had a very light vehicle, which a
>Caravan conversion certainly wouldn't be.
<snip>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you do any night driving, Auto Meter now has LED
replacement "bulbs" for the gauges:
http://members.cox.net/rstotts/AutoMeterLEDs.pdf
They aren't on their page yet:
http://hp.autometer.com/products/accessories/bulbs_and_sockets/bulbs_and_sockets.html
That should help reduce the 12 volt drain a little...
Also found some "Luxeon" LED's for headlight
experimentation. I figure for city driving where the
streets are lit, should work fine?
http://www.superbrightleds.com/led_prods.htm
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I use a program called DeltaCad
http://www.deltacad.com
It's free for 90 days and cheap after that. It does not do 3d or a lot
of "fancy" stuff but works well for 90+% of what I need.
Give it a shot.
James
On Tue, 2005-02-08 at 14:55, Paul Compton wrote:
> > Is there a free CAD program worth
> > using? My goals are just to have a diagram to work from, have the
> > double-check of the computer that dimensions agree, and to document
> > what I do.
>
> You used to be able to download a full version (minus some third party
> tools) of Turbocad 4 from IMSI, but they seem to have removed the option.
> They're up to version 10.5 now and you can buy earlier versions (new; boxed)
> very cheaply on amazon or ebay.
>
>
> Paul Compton
> www.sciroccoev.co.uk
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
(corrected)
I thought I saw a recent email from someone who had a definition for "ELIICA",
but I can't find it. Anyone know if this is an abbrev. for something tangible
-Ed
This is for the Eliica EV in Japan, successor of the KAZ. I thought someone
described it as Electric Lithium Ion .....
_______________________________________________
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich Rudman wrote:
Guys, please don't scare me like that!!!
Hey Richard.. I hope it's CE marked, or they might keep it!
Just kidding, hope it arrives soon :)
You're scared?
I'm the one who's paid for the thing! ;-)
Yep, I do hope it arrives soon - my batteries are hungry!
DHL appear to have been sitting on it for 6 days
at East Midlands airport.....just as well I phoned
them up today.
If they don't update their tracking reports soon, they'll
get another phone call tomorrow....and another...and another!
Ahhh, UK beaurocracy at it's best....
Richard Bebbington
electric Mini pickup
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks Mark.
/Bob
On Tuesday, February 8, 2005, at 09:40 AM, Marc Geller wrote:
www.priusplus.com
On Feb 8, 2005, at 7:50 AM, Bob Siebert wrote:
Does anyone recall the name/address of the folks working on the
plug-in Prius?
Thanks.
/Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks, Shari.
/Bob
On Tuesday, February 8, 2005, at 09:42 AM, Electro Automotive wrote:
http://www.calcars.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Peter VanDerWal [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I've been out of the loop for a while, but I thought that
> Orbitals were a slightly better battery than YTs? Slightly
> more WHs at typical EV draws and less weight?
Back in Aug 2003, based on a sample of 1, Rich wrote:
> On the Street side, they make 300 to 320 Watt hours, or
> just a bit more than the Yellow tops average of 280 Watt
> hours. So you get 1/3 of a Kwhr out of them at a 60 amps
> load. So the brag sheet looks like %5 more range and 2x the
> stiffness in a real world test.
My understanding is that Orbitals are slightly lighter than YTs and have
slightly less rated capacity. I believe that Rich's Wh numbers are for
*full* discharge, not just to 80%, and note that I've measured 400-500Wh
out of used YTs at 25A draw vs the 280Wh Rich sees from his at 60A.
I couldn't find any reserve capacity rating for the 34XCD in a quick web
search, but note that it is rated 50Ah vs the YT's 55Ah, and is 38lbs vs
the YT D34/78's 43.5lbs.
John Wayland says the 34XCD is the same internally as the 34DC marine
version, yet the 34DC weighs 41lbs... presumably some of this is due to
the marine version having an extra set of SAE posts, but then the XCD
has GM-style terminals that the 34DC lacks. The GM-style posts seem to
account for a 0.6lb difference between the 43.5lb D34/78 and 42.9lb D34
Optimas, so 3lbs difference between the 34XCD and 34DC seems a bit too
great to be just due to an extra pair of posts especially when the
difference is offset by the weight of the dropped GM-style terminals.
In any event, the 41lb 34DC is rated 100min reserve at 25A vs the YT's
[EMAIL PROTECTED] (for either the D34/78 or D34).
And, Exide specs the 34XCD at a max of 1100A for 5sec, so while Rich has
observed 1850A briefly it might be unwise to count on that level of
performance from every Orbital you might encounter.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks, Roy.
/Bob
On Tuesday, February 8, 2005, at 11:51 AM, Roy LeMeur wrote:
Does anyone recall the name/address of the folks working on the
plug-in Prius?
There is Yahoo Prius group that is very active where this is being
done/discussed
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/2004-prius/
Roy LeMeur Olympia, WA
My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
EV Parts/Gone Postal Photo Galleries:
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/page01.htm
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes, that is part of what I said - insulating *you*. That is especially
crucial if you work with non-insulated equipment like PFC chargers.
Many do, but I don't, so didn't mention this specifically. Yes,
this is actually a good idea regardless.
David Dymaxion wrote:
Standing on an insulator is a good idea, too. BTW, concrete is not an
insulator!
--- Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
...
I do use rubber gloves when dealing with my batteries. Doing that
and insulating the tools, + common sense in my opinion is enough.
You can do more safety wise - depending how paranoid you are :-),
but insulating *you* and your tools I'd say is a bare minimum.
...
=====
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
All your favorites on one personal page – Try My Yahoo!
http://my.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Drag tires are built to do that, that growth changes the ratio, and the car
achieves a higher speed at the end of the 1/4 mile, street tires do grow,
but it's so little that it is no use measuring it, and high performance
tires (the hard ones, or rubber bands) grow even less.
Ivo.
-----Mensaje original-----
De: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] nombre
de Rich Rudman
Enviado el: martes, 08 de febrero de 2005 15:53
Para: [email protected]
Asunto: Re:tire growth
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2005 2:29 PM
.I sent this
> picture to Rich Rudman(cost me 20 bucks) to post on the ev album,its one
of the
> best shots ever of the CE,with all its new graphics.The tires in the
static
> position hang over the rims almost 3 inches.The tires would grow another 2
in.
> with speeds in excess of 150. Dennis Berube
>
Ok folks I have not been paying much attention to the EV photo album...
where do I send this Shot of Dennis's Current Eliminator.
It does really show the tire growth.. I need Dennis to get a side shot in
the pits so we can infer the tire growth from Static to 125 MPH.
Right now it's good for about a .5 ratio change, with another 2 inches that
more like a entire integer ratio change.
This is a go fast trick, that Rod, or anyone else with slicks should
use. Why add another Gear set when you can just find the right tires..
Just when your EV motor is back EmFing itself... this "Gear change" comes
in just when you need it to.
Big Hint... Dennis spent some real time figuring out the right tire and rims
for this to work.... Don't expect this to work for everyone...
As everything Dennis does to go fast, it looks so darn simple......
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.5 - Release Date: 03/02/2005
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.5 - Release Date: 03/02/2005
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Felix Kramer and Ron Gremban
Victor
Bob Siebert wrote:
Does anyone recall the name/address of the folks working on the plug-in
Prius?
Thanks.
/Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2005 11:57 AM
Subject: Re:tire growth
> >From: "Rich Rudman"
>
> >Ok folks I have not been paying much attention to the EV
> >photo album...
> >where do I send this Shot of Dennis's Current Eliminator.
>
> Just upload it too here for the time being:
>
> http://www.imageshack.us/
>
> I want to see it!
>
* LP8.2: HTML/Attachments detected, removed from message *
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I don't consider 2.5 to 4 inches of total tire growth Little or
unmeasurable.
In fact it's quite critical for final motor RPM and trap speed calculations.
When we are all touching Rev limits or the highest speeds we dare... knowing
the Mach number of our Comm Bars is a nice data point.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ivo Jara G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2005 2:44 PM
Subject: RE: tire growth
> Drag tires are built to do that, that growth changes the ratio, and the
car
> achieves a higher speed at the end of the 1/4 mile, street tires do grow,
> but it's so little that it is no use measuring it, and high performance
> tires (the hard ones, or rubber bands) grow even less.
>
> Ivo.
>
> -----Mensaje original-----
> De: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
nombre
> de Rich Rudman
> Enviado el: martes, 08 de febrero de 2005 15:53
> Para: [email protected]
> Asunto: Re:tire growth
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Monday, February 07, 2005 2:29 PM
>
> .I sent this
> > picture to Rich Rudman(cost me 20 bucks) to post on the ev album,its one
> of the
> > best shots ever of the CE,with all its new graphics.The tires in the
> static
> > position hang over the rims almost 3 inches.The tires would grow another
2
> in.
> > with speeds in excess of 150. Dennis Berube
> >
>
>
> Ok folks I have not been paying much attention to the EV photo album...
> where do I send this Shot of Dennis's Current Eliminator.
>
> It does really show the tire growth.. I need Dennis to get a side shot in
> the pits so we can infer the tire growth from Static to 125 MPH.
> Right now it's good for about a .5 ratio change, with another 2 inches
that
> more like a entire integer ratio change.
> This is a go fast trick, that Rod, or anyone else with slicks should
> use. Why add another Gear set when you can just find the right tires..
> Just when your EV motor is back EmFing itself... this "Gear change" comes
> in just when you need it to.
>
> Big Hint... Dennis spent some real time figuring out the right tire and
rims
> for this to work.... Don't expect this to work for everyone...
> As everything Dennis does to go fast, it looks so darn simple......
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.5 - Release Date: 03/02/2005
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.5 - Release Date: 03/02/2005
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have used that, and also there are recipes to make it yourself.
These make cleaning hands easier after work on oily dirty ICE
engine parts. I never bothered to measure conductibity of it,
but would not rely on the product like this for electrical insulation.
In fact the effect may be the opposite- thewe products contain
moisturizer preventing copating to dry and peel off, so electrical
contact to you is likely be better than for a healthy dry skin.
Victor
Dave wrote:
Mt great Aunt and Uncle used to sell Shakley products, and I remember
one product called "Liquid Glove". I don't know if it still exists or not.
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
"I'm figuring out what's good for me, but only by a process of elimination"
----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Cover" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EVList" <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2005 4:51 AM
Subject: Re: High Voltage - let go!
--- Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Keep your hands clean and use rubber gloves.
Respect electricity, don't fear it.
I was thinking about a preventative product for mechanics to make
cleanup easier. You put on this
cream before starting work and it makes cleanup easier. Is there some
kind of product you can rub
on your hands to make you less conductive? Barring that I think the
gloves are the way to go. Even
with the one hand rule you can be leaning on the vehicle and create a
path through the fender, a
wet floor or anything else you may be touching. Just a thought.
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
"the advent of 42-volt systems in cars and maybe even
widespread electric vehicles."
http://www.exideworld.com/pdf/2001_exide_brochure.pdf
When are these 42 volt batteries going to be on the market?
What effect will they have as far as conversions go?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich Rudman wrote:
Ok folks I have not been paying much attention to the EV photo album...
where do I send this Shot of Dennis's Current Eliminator.
Rich, you send it to me at [EMAIL PROTECTED] Dennis already has a page
so his can easily be updated.
For anyone else who want to show off their EV, (IT IS FREE FOLKS!) just go to:
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/albumsubmission.html
and follow the instructions. I have now updated the code on the submission
form so it sends both myself and the submitter an HTML email of the almost
finished page. Just a few tweaks, and then processing the pictures into
thumbnails, and it is ready to go. Each completed page is then uploaded
for review by the submitter, then moved into the Album once approved.
Sadly we now are up to 18 pages that I never got an approval from the owner
on so they can't be added to the Album. We also have another 11 that
filled in the form but never sent in any pictures. I have one just sent
for approval, and one just approved about to be posted. Otherwise we are
up to 595 total vehicles approved and posted.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey
Webmaster
EV Photo Album
http://evalbum.com
--- End Message ---
