EV Digest 4192
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: How Fast to do conversion
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Range trailer
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: DC DC Converter
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: DC DC Converter
by Nick Viera <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Kilo-Amp-About or Excuses help the ego.
by "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Jacks EV was Re: Kilo-Amp-About or Excuses help the ego.
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: DC DC Converter
by "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) One Wilde golf cart
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Kilo-Amp-About or Excuses help the ego.
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: EV-1 Vigil
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Kilo-Amp-About or Excuses help the ego.
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
12) Re: One Wilde golf cart
by "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: DC DC Converter, series in, parallel out?
by "Christopher Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Renualt LeCar
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Dyno Day
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: DC DC Converter
by "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: DC DC Converter
by Martin K <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: DC DC Converter
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: DC DC Converter, series in, parallel out?
by Martin K <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Kilo-Amp-About or Excuses help the ego.
by "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Jacks EV was Re: Kilo-Amp-About or Excuses help the ego.
by "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: DC DC Converter
by Martin K <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Range trailer
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: DC DC Converter, series in, parallel out?
by Martin K <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: DC DC Converter
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: EV-1 Vigil
by "John Westlund" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Powerpoint EV Presentation
by Martin K <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Devil's advocate
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Series-parallel switch
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: One Wilde golf cart
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: DC DC Converter
by Mike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Great responses, thank you all. Lots of things to consider. As a point
of fact, I am trying to start a buisness, but it will be slow at first.
I am hopeing to do 4 conversions a year; 2 prototypes a year to develop
adapters and/or kits then a test of each kit in a new vehicle from the
first production of parts. It is sounding reasonable from what you guys
have said. I will consider "beta testers" for some kits to help move
things along and get some objective feedback. My first adapter looks
good but I need to know what would be the best glider to get the ball
rolling, the 300zx may be to obscure and heavy.(althought there are at
least 20 Z cars without rust at the local pick u part, brings a tear to
my eye, especially the limited edition 280Z) I do like RWD for DC, got
my eye on mitsubishi or other small PU next.
I realize these are 2-seaters but that kinda fits PbA EV's it seems.
--
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Anyone ever towed a trailer of batteries behind an EV for long-range
trips? I'm thinking of getting something like a small 2 wheeler and
loading it with either 500lbs of spare Hakwers or 700lbs of NiCDs.
How does it impact range, performance, and the like? My car has a 50kw
motor so it should be able to handle some weight.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Try this link,
http://www.peaktopeakpower.com/catalogs/meanwell/sd-200.html
Pretty attractive pricing.
They also have the SD-350 which is 30 Amps output for
a small increase in price.
http://www.computronics.com.au/meanwell/sd-350/
Rod
--- Mike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I need a DC DC converter! I really don't have the
> money to spend on a
> Sevcon or similar model, and need an inexpensive
> solution so I can drive
> my EV reliably.
>
> It was mentioned a couple days ago that a computer
> power supply could be
> used/ modified to be a DC DC Converter. Will this
> work on a 90 volt
> battery pack? Does anybody have any suggestions/
> instructions on how to
> modify it. I am familiar with electronics, but not
> that much with DC DC
> converters. Also, does anybody have any experience
> with Peak to Peack
> Power DC DC converters
>
(http://www.peacktopeakpower.com/catalogs/meanweel/sd-200.html)?
> It
> looks like it puts out about 16 amps on 90 volts,
> and costs only about
> $77.00.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
jerry dycus wrote:
Hi Mike and All,
I use a 25amphr batt and a battery charger
and only need to recharge it once a week though with a
reg EV once every main pack charge would be required.
I'm guessing you aren't using an MR2 power steering pump? I wish I could
get by with just a battery, and I've been forced to try that and it
isn't working very well; my range is now limited by how long it takes my
12 volt battery to discharge (which is like 7-9 miles during the day,
very few at night) :-/
Oh, and I was hoping to find a (relatively) inexpensive computer power
supply to temporarily replace my zorched DCP unit, but I can't seem to
find any that are the universal input type?
--
-Nick
http://Go.DriveEV.com/
1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
---------------------------
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It is the impurities in the water that make it conductive. ;)
Mike G.
Ryan Stotts wrote:
cowtown wrote:
Isn't Jack's the dipping-metal-plates-in-salt-water design that brought up the
discussion of chlorine gas release?
I never understood, why not just use some filtered water that doesn't
have chlorine in it and avoid the problems?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Jack and All,
--- Jack Knopf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I got my gas mask from a well thought of surplus
> guy! The fact is I now
> driving around town daily in my Kia Sephia with a
> controller that has no
> electronic parts that anyone could build for under
> $100. Perfect Control ,
> good acceleration. Tonight I am going to try a
You are not the only one doing this for that
price but a contactor controller will be more eff as
well as lower cost.
You will only be eff at full speed where a CC
will be at several speeds, up to 10.
And as for it being a 2000amp controller, thanks
for the laugh, I can always use one ;-))
I can garranty that a Zilla will always beat the
pants off of any one of your type C you can build or
even a contactor C for that matter for several reasons
you will learn.
A good idea is read about a yrs worth of posts
and you'll learn a lot and save yourself a lot of
money and have a better EV.
> contactor at the top end and
> see how much of a jerk there is. I tried the
> contactor last night while
> parked and there was just a slight rpm increase.
> Should be a nice transition
> and the electrolyte won't get as hot. Go ahead and
> laugh, get it out of your
I'm probably the reigning king of cheap EV's,
controllers and it was a good laugh ;-)
Your's main problems are ineff, only being eff at
one speed, always having to refill it, ect.
You could combine it with a CC to get more speeds
that are eff and just use the water controller for
smooth startup.
Your idea of a contactor at full speed is a good
one. Add to that series/parallel batts with tranny
speeds and it could be a nice, fairly eff set-up.
> system. :) I timed my self in the 1/8 last night at
> 45 mph easy. And they
> are right about just adding more plates for more
> amperage. I started out
> with 2 plates for 150 amps, 4 plates gave me 300
> amps. I now have 6 plates.
> I am using eight Wal-Mart batteries. I just did my
Not for long!!!! They won't last very long but ok
for learning, about 20-50 cycles. Boy will you learn!
Next time get true deep cycles by Trojan or US
batt for a much lower life cycle costs.
For more range and even longer life next time you
should consider T-105 type 6vdc golf cart batts. Again
only US batt or Trojan if you are smart.
> Kia conversion in about
> 80 hours for under $800. You just don't realize how
But how long will it last? If you get correct
batts your cost will be much less/mile.
> many people there are
> out there that really, really want to build an EV
> but can not afford to buy
> these expensive controllers and such. I found a 15
I agree but all these thing have been well tested
before, there is little new in EV's!!!
I've built an EV from scratch for under $800 so
it's not that hard. People have been doing it for
120+yrs!!
> inch, 2 foot long
> forklift motor at a machine shop the other day for
> $300. When I get it in my
> Kia, I will See ya at the track,
You''ll lose big time!! For one thing you will
kill those cheap batts of yours in just a couple runs
with disappointing results.
Now get 10 Orbitals and you might have a fun EV at
the track with that big motor but you stiil ain't
going to get anywhere near him.
Before you spend much more, ask the list and save
yourself a lot of bucks! Had you done that you would
have saved the $400 or so you wasted on your batts.
There are a bunch of us who enjoy cheap EV's but
there is penny wise and pound foolish ways to go as
you are doing.
HTH's,
jerry dycus
> Jack.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "EV Discussion List" <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2005 1:50 PM
> Subject: Re: Kilo-Amp-About or Excuses help the ego.
>
>
> > >At 1:07 PM -0600 3-17-05, Jack Knopf wrote:
> >>>You don't have to worry about that! I think I can
> get more that a
> >>>mere 2000 amps from one of my controllers.
> >>>Jack.
> >>
> >>And...!? Were waiting with baited breath. Tell us
> what you're running!
> >>Is it a contactor control? What batteries do you
> have?
> >>It's starting to sound like fun when 2000 amps is
> "a mere 2000 amps". :-)
> >>--
> >>-Otmar-
> >
> > Isn't Jack's the
> dipping-metal-plates-in-salt-water design that
> brought up
> > the
> > discussion of chlorine gas release? If that's the
> case, then the current
> > is
> > only limited by the size of plates you use (and
> the efficiency of your gas
> > mask).
> >
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Would it be possible to connect more than one pc computer power supply
in parallel to increase the current? Following all polarity rules and
such :)
Mike G.
Rod Hower wrote:
Try this link,
http://www.peaktopeakpower.com/catalogs/meanwell/sd-200.html
Pretty attractive pricing.
They also have the SD-350 which is 30 Amps output for
a small increase in price.
http://www.computronics.com.au/meanwell/sd-350/
Rod
--- Mike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I need a DC DC converter! I really don't have the
money to spend on a
Sevcon or similar model, and need an inexpensive
solution so I can drive
my EV reliably.
It was mentioned a couple days ago that a computer
power supply could be
used/ modified to be a DC DC Converter. Will this
work on a 90 volt
battery pack? Does anybody have any suggestions/
instructions on how to
modify it. I am familiar with electronics, but not
that much with DC DC
converters. Also, does anybody have any experience
with Peak to Peack
Power DC DC converters
(http://www.peacktopeakpower.com/catalogs/meanweel/sd-200.html)?
It
looks like it puts out about 16 amps on 90 volts,
and costs only about
$77.00.
Thanks,
Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The 400Amp Curtis on my 48V 1995 Club Car failed
last fall (full on fail!, luckily the key switch
dropped the main contactor or a tree would have
stopped it!).
Anyhow, I aquired a zorched 600A 48V forklift control
from a list member (thanks Turbo Mike!).
I emailed my co-worker at GE that designed this
control (I worked at GE from 1993 to 1996).
He told me which parts to swap out to make it a 72Vdc
control. I plan on putting in 72Vdc of the bb-6600's
and changing out the series motor to a 48V Club Car
shunt that's been sitting in the basement since 1996.
So, this should be quite a ride when I'm done.
It already has the Goodyear Eagle tires and polished
chrome rims I purchased from EVparts (I think this
makes it go faster :-).
This is a picture of the cart now,
http://www.qsl.net/w8rnh/golfcart/golfcrt2.jpg
This should be one kickass cart when I'm done.
Rod
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It's the salt (Sodium Chloride) that makes the gas, I think.
Dave
Some call it retirement, some call it a second career... I just call it
adding 5ive days to the weekend!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2005 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: Kilo-Amp-About or Excuses help the ego.
cowtown wrote:
Isn't Jack's the dipping-metal-plates-in-salt-water design that brought
up the
discussion of chlorine gas release?
I never understood, why not just use some filtered water that doesn't
have chlorine in it and avoid the problems?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
We GM owners could all drive down to the local ford dealer and trade in
our GM's, make it an coordinated media covered event. :-)
--
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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.7.2 - Release Date: 3/11/2005
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>> I never understood, why not just use some filtered water that doesn't
>> have chlorine in it and avoid the problems?
>
>Because ordinary water is nowhere near conductive enough.
How about using NaOH (lye) or some other electrolyte that *doesn't* have a anion
with dangerous byproducts?
Or you could be lazy like me and shop at the EV Tradin' Post for something
cheap.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You better put blocks on the pedals for jr to reach them properly!! HA HA!
Mike G
Rod Hower wrote:
The 400Amp Curtis on my 48V 1995 Club Car failed
last fall (full on fail!, luckily the key switch
dropped the main contactor or a tree would have
stopped it!).
Anyhow, I aquired a zorched 600A 48V forklift control
from a list member (thanks Turbo Mike!).
I emailed my co-worker at GE that designed this
control (I worked at GE from 1993 to 1996).
He told me which parts to swap out to make it a 72Vdc
control. I plan on putting in 72Vdc of the bb-6600's
and changing out the series motor to a 48V Club Car
shunt that's been sitting in the basement since 1996.
So, this should be quite a ride when I'm done.
It already has the Goodyear Eagle tires and polished
chrome rims I purchased from EVparts (I think this
makes it go faster :-).
This is a picture of the cart now,
http://www.qsl.net/w8rnh/golfcart/golfcrt2.jpg
This should be one kickass cart when I'm done.
Rod
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 72-144V input voltage each, could 3 of these SD-200s be connected in
series on the inputs for a 348V pack, with their outputs connected in
parallel?
I understand that this would make the combination 3 times as likely to
fail as a single unit, but I was hoping each unit's isolation would at
least allow it to work. Is there something I'm not thinking of here?
--chris
Rod Hower said:
> Try this link,
> http://www.peaktopeakpower.com/catalogs/meanwell/sd-200.html
> Pretty attractive pricing.
> They also have the SD-350 which is 30 Amps output for
> a small increase in price.
> http://www.computronics.com.au/meanwell/sd-350/
> Rod
> --- Mike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> I need a DC DC converter! I really don't have the
>> money to spend on a
>> Sevcon or similar model, and need an inexpensive
>> solution so I can drive
>> my EV reliably.
>>
>> It was mentioned a couple days ago that a computer
>> power supply could be
>> used/ modified to be a DC DC Converter. Will this
>> work on a 90 volt
>> battery pack? Does anybody have any suggestions/
>> instructions on how to
>> modify it. I am familiar with electronics, but not
>> that much with DC DC
>> converters. Also, does anybody have any experience
>> with Peak to Peack
>> Power DC DC converters
>>
> (http://www.peacktopeakpower.com/catalogs/meanweel/sd-200.html)?
>> It
>> looks like it puts out about 16 amps on 90 volts,
>> and costs only about
>> $77.00.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Mike
>>
>>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike wrote:
>I think this might be due to the brakes. I was told the wheel
> cylinders in the rear drum brakes were dragging and probably needed to
> be replaced. So that is the next project, hopefully this will fix the
> problem. Any other suggestions?
Use a jack and lift the back wheel off the ground and spin it round
and round with your hands. If the brake shoes are dragging, you will
be able to hear them doing so. If they are like all the rear brakes
I've worked on, you should be able to adjust them so they don't drag.
Do yours look like this with an adjusting "screw"?
http://www.autopart.com/brakes/gifs/drum_brakes.jpg
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://fresnoracing.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=11771&pid=217984&st=150&#entry217984
Fresno area dyno day.
They have organized a BBQ and dyno day at a local dyno for their members
, but man, they ran out of spots quick. I am sure they will do it again.
--
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Would it be possible to connect an fet to a duty cycle oscillator to
make a cheap dc-dc convertor? I would like to run a 48 volt power
steering pump from a forklift with a 150 volt battery pack.
So if I build a 555 timer with a 30% duty cycle could I connect it to
a large enough bank of fet's to run it safely? I think I would need
about 30 amps continuos 50 amp peak. Would this be more efficient than a
Mr2 power steering setup?
Mike G.
Rod Hower wrote:
Try this link,
http://www.peaktopeakpower.com/catalogs/meanwell/sd-200.html
Pretty attractive pricing.
They also have the SD-350 which is 30 Amps output for
a small increase in price.
http://www.computronics.com.au/meanwell/sd-350/
Rod
--- Mike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I need a DC DC converter! I really don't have the
money to spend on a
Sevcon or similar model, and need an inexpensive
solution so I can drive
my EV reliably.
It was mentioned a couple days ago that a computer
power supply could be
used/ modified to be a DC DC Converter. Will this
work on a 90 volt
battery pack? Does anybody have any suggestions/
instructions on how to
modify it. I am familiar with electronics, but not
that much with DC DC
converters. Also, does anybody have any experience
with Peak to Peack
Power DC DC converters
(http://www.peacktopeakpower.com/catalogs/meanweel/sd-200.html)?
It
looks like it puts out about 16 amps on 90 volts,
and costs only about
$77.00.
Thanks,
Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike wrote:
I need a DC DC converter! I really don't have the money to spend on a
Sevcon or similar model, and need an inexpensive solution so I can drive
my EV reliably.
It was mentioned a couple days ago that a computer power supply could be
used/ modified to be a DC DC Converter. Will this work on a 90 volt
battery pack? Does anybody have any suggestions/ instructions on how to
modify it. I am familiar with electronics, but not that much with DC DC
converters. Also, does anybody have any experience with Peak to Peack
Power DC DC converters
(http://www.peacktopeakpower.com/catalogs/meanweel/sd-200.html)? It
looks like it puts out about 16 amps on 90 volts, and costs only about
$77.00.
Thanks,
Mike
Hi Mike,
Computer power supplies are intended to operate from 87-247 VAC ( I
might be off by a few volts )
Because these are AC volts, the rectified voltage peaks on the low end
at 87*sqrt(2) volts, or about 120 volts DC. This is 30 volts higher than
your nominal voltage.
What I am getting at is that it might work, or it might not. I would add
a filter on the input side and be careful of the current on the output.
-Computer power supplies don't back down gracefully, there's a good
chance it'll blow something out if you continually try to draw too much
current. You could compensate for this (If you can get it to make 14
volts!) by feeding your aux battery from this P/S through a resistor of
probably .25 ohms - the logic being that your aux battery won't let a
very large load go below 10 volts (transient), so you have a 4 volt
difference across .25 ohms effectively limiting your current to 16 amps.
-They also aren't designed to run at more than about 75% of what the
nameplate reads (.25 ohms might be too low).
-You might also need to load the 5 or 3.3v rail a little bit to get 12v
out instead of 11.5 or so.
-There's a chance you could get it up to 13.25v, but I'd be surprised if
it would go to 13.8v like you need, without modifying the feedback
divider resistors (if it has any)
But hey, for $12 it's worth a try:
<http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-163-025&depa=0>
And yes, you can parallel them if you use a resistor on each one (do not
connect the power supplies directly)
Use fuses.
--
Martin K
http://wwia.org/sgroup/biofuel/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I don't see any reason why these couldn't be paralled
(the ones I listed at peaktopeakpower).
Maybe I should buy some for 'work' and parallel them
to
see what happens. We always need low cost supplies
for life test of our low voltage BLDC motors/controls.
I guess worst case you could put a high current 60V
Schotky diode in series with the positive output on
each supply to prevent backfeed, but I'm not sure this
is necessary with their protection features.
Rod
--- "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Would it be possible to connect more than one pc
> computer power supply
> in parallel to increase the current? Following all
> polarity rules and
> such :)
> Mike G.
>
> Rod Hower wrote:
>
> >Try this link,
>
>http://www.peaktopeakpower.com/catalogs/meanwell/sd-200.html
> >Pretty attractive pricing.
> >They also have the SD-350 which is 30 Amps output
> for
> >a small increase in price.
> >http://www.computronics.com.au/meanwell/sd-350/
> >Rod
> >--- Mike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >
> >>I need a DC DC converter! I really don't have the
> >>money to spend on a
> >>Sevcon or similar model, and need an inexpensive
> >>solution so I can drive
> >>my EV reliably.
> >>
> >>It was mentioned a couple days ago that a computer
> >>power supply could be
> >>used/ modified to be a DC DC Converter. Will this
> >>work on a 90 volt
> >>battery pack? Does anybody have any suggestions/
> >>instructions on how to
> >>modify it. I am familiar with electronics, but not
> >>that much with DC DC
> >>converters. Also, does anybody have any experience
> >>with Peak to Peack
> >>Power DC DC converters
> >>
> >>
> >>
>
>(http://www.peacktopeakpower.com/catalogs/meanweel/sd-200.html)?
> >
> >
> >>It
> >>looks like it puts out about 16 amps on 90 volts,
> >>and costs only about
> >>$77.00.
> >>
> >>Thanks,
> >>Mike
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Christopher Robison wrote:
At 72-144V input voltage each, could 3 of these SD-200s be connected in
series on the inputs for a 348V pack, with their outputs connected in
parallel?
I understand that this would make the combination 3 times as likely to
fail as a single unit, but I was hoping each unit's isolation would at
least allow it to work. Is there something I'm not thinking of here?
--chris
There's absolutely no guarantee that they are going to share the current
the way you want them too.
Do you really have a 348v pack?
As this is very similar to the last email I wrote, I'm going to tell you
that 247VAC would rectify to a voltage of 349VDC, and I THINK the range
for universal input goes from 87-247VAC (though I just found one that
says 265V)
You /could/ try it. I wouldn't.. well, without safety glasses.
HVDC scares me, what can I say.
--
Martin K
http://wwia.org/sgroup/biofuel/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Been to the tradin post and working on other solutions.
Jack.
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2005 7:35 PM
Subject: Re: Kilo-Amp-About or Excuses help the ego.
I never understood, why not just use some filtered water that doesn't
have chlorine in it and avoid the problems?
Because ordinary water is nowhere near conductive enough.
How about using NaOH (lye) or some other electrolyte that *doesn't* have a
anion
with dangerous byproducts?
Or you could be lazy like me and shop at the EV Tradin' Post for something
cheap.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I think you guys need to learn how to read. I said I could make one that
would handle 2000 plus amps. I went for another test drive tonight and
everthing went as predicted. When Electrolyte controller maxed out ,
contactor kicked in with very smooth acceleration up to 60 mph. Wouldn't a
contactor controller be jerk, jerk, jerk? Orbitals were always the plan, but
my Wal-Marts are fine for now. Is not the world record for the 1/8 only 40
mph for the 96 volt class? Is www.nedra.com wrong? Time will tell.
Jack.
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerry dycus" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2005 7:21 PM
Subject: Jacks EV was Re: Kilo-Amp-About or Excuses help the ego.
Hi Jack and All,
--- Jack Knopf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I got my gas mask from a well thought of surplus
guy! The fact is I now
driving around town daily in my Kia Sephia with a
controller that has no
electronic parts that anyone could build for under
$100. Perfect Control ,
good acceleration. Tonight I am going to try a
You are not the only one doing this for that
price but a contactor controller will be more eff as
well as lower cost.
You will only be eff at full speed where a CC
will be at several speeds, up to 10.
And as for it being a 2000amp controller, thanks
for the laugh, I can always use one ;-))
I can garranty that a Zilla will always beat the
pants off of any one of your type C you can build or
even a contactor C for that matter for several reasons
you will learn.
A good idea is read about a yrs worth of posts
and you'll learn a lot and save yourself a lot of
money and have a better EV.
contactor at the top end and
see how much of a jerk there is. I tried the
contactor last night while
parked and there was just a slight rpm increase.
Should be a nice transition
and the electrolyte won't get as hot. Go ahead and
laugh, get it out of your
I'm probably the reigning king of cheap EV's,
controllers and it was a good laugh ;-)
Your's main problems are ineff, only being eff at
one speed, always having to refill it, ect.
You could combine it with a CC to get more speeds
that are eff and just use the water controller for
smooth startup.
Your idea of a contactor at full speed is a good
one. Add to that series/parallel batts with tranny
speeds and it could be a nice, fairly eff set-up.
system. :) I timed my self in the 1/8 last night at
45 mph easy. And they
are right about just adding more plates for more
amperage. I started out
with 2 plates for 150 amps, 4 plates gave me 300
amps. I now have 6 plates.
I am using eight Wal-Mart batteries. I just did my
Not for long!!!! They won't last very long but ok
for learning, about 20-50 cycles. Boy will you learn!
Next time get true deep cycles by Trojan or US
batt for a much lower life cycle costs.
For more range and even longer life next time you
should consider T-105 type 6vdc golf cart batts. Again
only US batt or Trojan if you are smart.
Kia conversion in about
80 hours for under $800. You just don't realize how
But how long will it last? If you get correct
batts your cost will be much less/mile.
many people there are
out there that really, really want to build an EV
but can not afford to buy
these expensive controllers and such. I found a 15
I agree but all these thing have been well tested
before, there is little new in EV's!!!
I've built an EV from scratch for under $800 so
it's not that hard. People have been doing it for
120+yrs!!
inch, 2 foot long
forklift motor at a machine shop the other day for
$300. When I get it in my
Kia, I will See ya at the track,
You''ll lose big time!! For one thing you will
kill those cheap batts of yours in just a couple runs
with disappointing results.
Now get 10 Orbitals and you might have a fun EV at
the track with that big motor but you stiil ain't
going to get anywhere near him.
Before you spend much more, ask the list and save
yourself a lot of bucks! Had you done that you would
have saved the $400 or so you wasted on your batts.
There are a bunch of us who enjoy cheap EV's but
there is penny wise and pound foolish ways to go as
you are doing.
HTH's,
jerry dycus
Jack.
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2005 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: Kilo-Amp-About or Excuses help the ego.
> >At 1:07 PM -0600 3-17-05, Jack Knopf wrote:
>>>You don't have to worry about that! I think I can
get more that a
>>>mere 2000 amps from one of my controllers.
>>>Jack.
>>
>>And...!? Were waiting with baited breath. Tell us
what you're running!
>>Is it a contactor control? What batteries do you
have?
>>It's starting to sound like fun when 2000 amps is
"a mere 2000 amps". :-)
>>--
>>-Otmar-
>
> Isn't Jack's the
dipping-metal-plates-in-salt-water design that
brought up
> the
> discussion of chlorine gas release? If that's the
case, then the current
> is
> only limited by the size of plates you use (and
the efficiency of your gas
> mask).
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
M.G. wrote:
Would it be possible to connect an fet to a duty cycle oscillator to
make a cheap dc-dc convertor? I would like to run a 48 volt power
steering pump from a forklift with a 150 volt battery pack.
So if I build a 555 timer with a 30% duty cycle could I connect it to
a large enough bank of fet's to run it safely? I think I would need
about 30 amps continuos 50 amp peak. Would this be more efficient than a
Mr2 power steering setup?
Mike G.
30 amps at 48v is almost 2HP. Are you sure it's going to use that much
electricity?
Trying to build something including "a bank of FETs" that potentially
supplies 2.4kW as your first SMPS is a recipe for flying bits of plastic
and silicon. If you are very careful and you get someone to design
something for you (or at least have someone check out your design) you
might get lucky and have something that works. But you need things like
current limiting, and if you add that you might as well make it
regulated with a chip like the MC34025. I don't mean to discourage you,
if you really want to do it you can - but it'll take a lot of time and
learning.
--
Martin K
http://wwia.org/sgroup/biofuel/
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--- Begin Message ---
Christopher Zach wrote:
> I'm thinking of getting something like a small 2 wheeler and
> loading it with either 500lbs of spare Hakwers or 700lbs of NiCDs.
Give it a try and see.
Here is a 4' x 8' folding trailer rated at "1175lbs" for $220:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=90154
Smaller one for less money:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42708
Or one for a little more money with a metal floor:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=2575
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--- Begin Message ---
Martin K wrote:
There's absolutely no guarantee that they are going to share the current
the way you want them too.
Do you really have a 348v pack?
As this is very similar to the last email I wrote, I'm going to tell you
that 247VAC would rectify to a voltage of 349VDC, and I THINK the range
for universal input goes from 87-247VAC (though I just found one that
says 265V)
You /could/ try it. I wouldn't.. well, without safety glasses.
HVDC scares me, what can I say.
I'm sorry, I didn't realize there was talk of a second power supply
there. (the SD-200) Ignore above comments please.
--
Martin K
http://wwia.org/sgroup/biofuel/
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--- Begin Message ---
Nick Viera wrote:
> I'm guessing you aren't using an MR2 power steering pump? I wish I could
> get by with just a battery, and I've been forced to try that and it
> isn't working very well; my range is now limited by how long it takes my
> 12 volt battery to discharge (which is like 7-9 miles during the day,
> very few at night) :-/
Put a manual steering box on that Jeep and extend your range:
http://www.discountjeepparts.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/91_459_786
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--- Begin Message ---
Chip Gribben wrote:
>My idea to take out our frustrations on GM is to
>procure a Hummer H2
>(legally of course) and have a slam fest on it. Get
>the spray paint out and
>write messages on it then get out the sledge
>hammers, hack saws, portable
>chop saws, torches, plasma cutters and go at it till
>there is nothing left.
>Make hood ornaments out of some of the pieces for
>our EVs. Mail GM the rest
>of the pieces and tell them to "recycle" this.
Better not be a new Hummer. The irony of such a situation,
giving GM your money, would be both sad and funny at the
same time. A used one ussualy makes sure your money doesn't
go to GM, but instead some sleazy used car dealership. :-)
>Everyone pays like $25 to get their chance to
>destroy the Hummer and the
>proceeds go to the American Lung Association.
Would guns be allowed? That would be awesome...
>If we had concrete proof of all
>the lists and back orders for the car we could put
>that excuse to rest.
As they say, if a bullfrog had wings he wouldn't bump his
ass.
I think proof enough of GMs actions and stalling of the car
exists in various books and publications. "Taken for a Ride"
by Jack Doyle is an excellent source of info, "The Car That
Could" by Michael Shnayerson had some useful info, and
countless articles in the NY Times, LA Times, and many other
newspapers exist and have been posted on the list many times
before. Plenty of studies exist citing EV demand in
California being a significant portion of the market in the
case the cars were offered, although as each day passes they
approach being outdated just a little more.
An entire market is being neglected. Those same people
buying hybrids? Most of those would jump to an all-electric
car quicker than flies on a turd.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
<http://isnoop.net/gmail/>
They have 880,000 invites and you don't have to email anyone for them.
--
Martin K
http://wwia.org/sgroup/biofuel/
Tim Clevenger wrote:
Gmail also handles large attachments (10MB). I have invites available to EVDL
members, but only if you email me offlist. Address is tjclevenger and then
the 'at' sign, then gmail.com.
Tim
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sherry Boschert wrote:
>
And what about recycling? I've heard that 90% of
lead-acid batteries are recyclable, but I don't have a
>>source for that figure.
Another site with a little more information:
http://www.worldwise.com/recbat.html
Which links to:
http://www.rbrc.org/index.html
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
While we are on the subject, Has anyone considered series parallel
hybrid packs?
Take a lithium ion pack and a PbA pack in parallel from the start then
once at cruise put them in series.
Could we get the amps we need off the line up to a certain speed, then
get hiway speeds without buying 100's of li-ion cells by biasing the gnd
of the litium ion pack up the volts of the Pb-A pack?
Seperate isolated charges could then work as long as charging is in
"series" mode
or crazier, charge in parallel for bulk, Pb-a takes most of it, then
switch to seriess to equalize lead and charge li-ion's
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.7.2 - Release Date: 3/11/2005
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
More like a serious current limit for jr!
I believe in starting them young on EV's.
He could actually drive this 1.5 years before that
picture by leaning against the seat in a verticle
position to reach the go pedal and looking between the
steering wheel to see where he was going.
Before that he was a serious E-power wheels jeep
driver.
Next project is to upgrade his electric powered
go-cart to BB-600's. It currently has 3, 12V 17Ahr
lead acid batteries and can go 30 MPH with me riding!.
I just finished some closed loop speed control
software for my BLDC control on this EV so he can't go
that fast!. This includes closed loop braking control
so
he can't cheat and go faster down the hills!
Rod
--- "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> You better put blocks on the pedals for jr to reach
> them properly!! HA HA!
> Mike G
>
> Rod Hower wrote:
>
> >The 400Amp Curtis on my 48V 1995 Club Car failed
> >last fall (full on fail!, luckily the key switch
> >dropped the main contactor or a tree would have
> >stopped it!).
> >Anyhow, I aquired a zorched 600A 48V forklift
> control
> >from a list member (thanks Turbo Mike!).
> >I emailed my co-worker at GE that designed this
> >control (I worked at GE from 1993 to 1996).
> >He told me which parts to swap out to make it a
> 72Vdc
> >control. I plan on putting in 72Vdc of the
> bb-6600's
> >and changing out the series motor to a 48V Club Car
> >shunt that's been sitting in the basement since
> 1996.
> >So, this should be quite a ride when I'm done.
> >It already has the Goodyear Eagle tires and
> polished
> >chrome rims I purchased from EVparts (I think this
> >makes it go faster :-).
> >This is a picture of the cart now,
> >http://www.qsl.net/w8rnh/golfcart/golfcrt2.jpg
> >This should be one kickass cart when I'm done.
> >Rod
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nick Viera wrote:
Hi,
jerry dycus wrote:
Hi Mike and All,
I use a 25amphr batt and a battery charger
and only need to recharge it once a week though with a
reg EV once every main pack charge would be required.
I'm guessing you aren't using an MR2 power steering pump? I wish I
could get by with just a battery, and I've been forced to try that and
it isn't working very well; my range is now limited by how long it
takes my 12 volt battery to discharge (which is like 7-9 miles during
the day, very few at night) :-/
Oh, and I was hoping to find a (relatively) inexpensive computer power
supply to temporarily replace my zorched DCP unit, but I can't seem to
find any that are the universal input type?
For $69.00 and up Newegg.com
(http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-153-010&depa=0
<http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-153-010&depa=0>)
has the universal (a.k.a. PFC) power supplies you are looking for. But,
they only supply around 16-20 amps on the 12V rail. There is a post by
Martin K. talking about using PC power supplies as DC converters. Also,
there were a couple posts talking about parallelling PC power supplies,
which might be another option.
Best of Luck!
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