EV Digest 4223
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Renualt LeCar
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Let's cut each other some slack, OK?
by "David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: Intellectual property
by "Ivo Jara" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) TS Charging Amps
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: TS Charging Amps
by =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Jukka_J=E4rvinen?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: Renualt LeCar
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Big vacuum pumps
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: TS Charging Amps
by "Doug Hartley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Big vacuum pumps
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Zytek Electric Lotus Elise exhibited at Heritage Motor Centre
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Project Solectria E-10 For Sale
by "Ralph Goodwin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Adapter Idea
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Let's cut each other some slack, OK?
by "Philip Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Let's cut each other some slack, OK?
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Hardest part of the conversion
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Dead link 10
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Let's cut each other some slack, OK?
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Hardest part of the conversion
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Dead link 10
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: New To Group
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Hardest part of the conversion
by "Tom Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Let's cut each other some slack, OK?
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Chain & Sprockets question.
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Headlight Questions
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Interesting electric vehicle statue in Arizona
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Charging dock idea
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: New To Group
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Interesting electric vehicle statue in Arizona
by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Zytek Electric Lotus Elise exhibited at Heritage Motor Centre
by "John Westlund" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: Hardest part of the conversion
by "John Westlund" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: Charging dock idea
by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) Re: Renualt LeCar
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Mike wrote:
> Is it possible to adjust the front and rear brakes so they don't drag
> without replacing the entire wheel cylinder (they are special order). It
> appears as though the brake cylinders, at least in the rear drum brakes,
> are not returning fluid to the reservior in my LeCar. Is the rubber seal
> mentioned above replaceable, and will this fix the problem? Also, how
> are the brakes in the LeCar adjusted?
I'm under the impression that all the wheel cylinders do is move the
shoes out. The springs are what retract the shoes:
http://www.fordracingparts.com/images/part/full/M2209B.jpg
For the drum brakes in that picture, a spring kit that has all new
springs in it can be had for less then $10.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
<snip>
In an earlier reply to this message, I snipped the entire body of the
message
so as not to repeat things too much.
I then sent a more detailed reply to the address I believe is shown below.
I don't know if my message went through or not, but it has been pointed out
to me that my reply to the list ,in the absense of the full text , is not
clear.
So I'm including enough text and additional response to , I hope, clarify
my earlier response.
> This is one of those posts I hate making.
>
> I'm soliciting comments from the EV list membership on John De Armond's
> overall value to this list. Is his presence here a net positive?
VERY positive
<snip >
> To date,
> other than creating a "virtual paper trail," I haven't made any effort to
have
> John De Armond either warned or removed.
>
> So - should I?
NO you should not have him removed , because then sooner or later almost
everyone would have to be removed.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So the guys that make (let's say) CD players, actually contacted Philips and
have a written consent (or license) to make the things ????
I remeber you had to buy (let's say) Superman's TM to make a costume and
sell it, but I never thought you had to do it with hardware.
Well, every day we learn something new, that get's rid of the EV-1 Idea, I
think GM will never license it.
-----Mensaje original-----
De: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
nombre de Philip Marino
Enviado el: mi�rcoles, 23 de marzo de 2005 9:44
Para: [email protected]
Asunto: RE: Intellectual property
>From: "Ivo Jara" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>As I understand it you can produce a patented invention, as long as you pay
>the owner of the patent.
>
>Maybe I'm wrong, but if i want to make (let's say) a light bulb, I will
>have
>to pay money to the edison famili, but I could make them without their
>written consent.
>
>Am I right ??????
>
No. To be legal, at least, you need to license the invention. The owner
of the patent can either agree or not agree to sell you the rights (license)
to use the invention. ( Or, grant you a license for some other
condsideration).
You can't even legally use the invention for your own personal use. The
chances of being prosecuted for that are very slim, though.
Phil Marino
22 patents ( so far)
_________________________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The ThunderSky web site says that .3C is the "best" charging rate for their
cells. For 200Ah cells, that would be 60A. I've read on other forums that
some people believe that "best" here really means "maximum"--and that slower
charging would be more beneficial to the longevity of the cells.
For those of you with TS cells, do you have an opinions/experience on this?
Would nightly charging at 40A from a PFC-30 be more harmful than nightly
charging at 12A, doing the 40A only when I absolutely needed it?
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
When CCing it stress the cell less. Lower CC is better.
If you have choice and a good charger choose as long time as possible
for charging. It makes the operation of the protection circuitry easier
and such circuit is cheaper to make (less to by pass).
If you have a BMS... another story. You just plug it and use it.
-Jukka
Bill Dennis kirjoitti:
The ThunderSky web site says that .3C is the "best" charging rate for their
cells. For 200Ah cells, that would be 60A. I've read on other forums that
some people believe that "best" here really means "maximum"--and that slower
charging would be more beneficial to the longevity of the cells.
For those of you with TS cells, do you have an opinions/experience on this?
Would nightly charging at 40A from a PFC-30 be more harmful than nightly
charging at 12A, doing the 40A only when I absolutely needed it?
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Is it possible to adjust the front and rear brakes so they don't drag
> without replacing the entire wheel cylinder (they are special
> order).
There is no adjustment for disk brakes ((which you have on the front).
Want you can do here is to ensure that the calipers move freely on their
mounting pins and that the pistons are not seized (pry them back away
from the disk slightly to verify that they do move).
> It appears as though the brake cylinders, at least in the rear
> drum brakes, are not returning fluid to the reservior in my LeCar.
If you remove the drums you can observe the wheel cylinders and verify
that the piston(s) move freely. Wheel cylinders are rebuildable,
provided you can source appropriate rebuild kits (typically containing
just the rubber o-ring and dust boot). You may have to purchase a wheel
cylinder hone if the bore of the wheel cylinder is scored or otherwise
in rough shape.
Hope this helps,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Too much for brakes unless they are used "regenerativly". tied to brake
light switch :-)
But wow, I wonder how noisey they are. At that cfm and pull they might
be good for composite work.
http://www.gzmotorsports.com/vacuum-pumps.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bill,
I agree with Jukka's advice of charging slower at a lower current. I am
charging 300 Amp-Hrs. with only 9 Amps. Any bad things will happen
less/slower at the lower rate and the shunt style regulators have an easier
time to protect the cells and less heat will be given off.
Can you advise a link to information on the cell regulators you are using?
Thanks.
Best Regards,
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jukka J�rvinen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2005 5:58 PM
Subject: Re: TS Charging Amps
When CCing it stress the cell less. Lower CC is better.
If you have choice and a good charger choose as long time as possible for
charging. It makes the operation of the protection circuitry easier and
such circuit is cheaper to make (less to by pass).
If you have a BMS... another story. You just plug it and use it.
-Jukka
Bill Dennis kirjoitti:
The ThunderSky web site says that .3C is the "best" charging rate for
their
cells. For 200Ah cells, that would be 60A. I've read on other forums
that
some people believe that "best" here really means "maximum"--and that
slower
charging would be more beneficial to the longevity of the cells. For
those of you with TS cells, do you have an opinions/experience on this?
Would nightly charging at 40A from a PFC-30 be more harmful than nightly
charging at 12A, doing the 40A only when I absolutely needed it?
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jeff Shanab wrote:
> At that cfm and pull they might
> be good for composite work.
Here's a 110v pump for that:
http://www.unitednuclear.com/pump.htm
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.zytekgroup.co.uk/news/zyteknewsview.php?nid=54 Tasty little ride.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a Solectria E-10 pickup for sale. The truck was in daily utility
service until its charger failed. Investigation revealed that the batteries
had also been abused. The truck was scheduled for charger repairs and
battery replacement. The battery pack was replaced and the charger removed
and sent to Solectria for repairs. Unfortunately the charger was lost!
Utility personnel felt that the cost of a new charger, $3000, was excessive
and decided to donate the vehicle to the EV Challenge. The truck has sat
for a little over a year while all this was going on. The truck appears to
be in good conditions with the following exceptions. As state above, the
Solectria installed battery charger is missing. The truck currently will
not run. Utility technicians indicated that this is due to the charger
being missing and that when the proper charger is installed the truck will
run. The truck was one of a select few that also have a Hughes
Magna-Charge port installed. I don't think this works, but have no way to
confirm that. The battery pack was replaced a little over a year ago, but
never charged . The truck has been stored in a environmentally controlled
building so the batteries may still be viable. I would encourage anyone who
might be interested, to view this as a project vehicle, still its not often
that one of these trucks becomes available. If you are interested in an AC
drive commercial conversion project, this may be something you want to check
out.
Ralph Goodwin
EV Challenge
www.evchallenge.org <http://www.evchallenge.org/>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am reconsidering an adapter design and wanted to get the list's input
The warp 9 or 9" ADC is shorter than most blocks
http://www.go-ev.com/images/warp9_specs.jpg
and
http://www.westechperformance.com/pages/Tech_Library/Popular_Engine_Specs/dimensions.html
What if we have an adapter plate at the tranny and a front plate that
reproduces the bolts on the front of the motor block. A piece of
aluminum channel welded between the two at the level and angle of the
motor mounts.
It might be a little heavier than a single plate, but it would allow
"drop in" replacement and the easy connection of the AC and and other
accesories and brackets. If that style of connections are required.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: "David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> I'm soliciting comments from the EV list membership on John De Armond's
> overall value to this list. Is his presence here a net positive?
VERY positive
<snip >
> To date,
> other than creating a "virtual paper trail," I haven't made any effort
to
have
> John De Armond either warned or removed.
>
> So - should I?
NO you should not have him removed , because then sooner or later almost
everyone would have to be removed.
I disagree. How many of us on this list have come even close to this
comment by Neon John :
"See, you're no different than the fundie christians who think that
everyone should agree with and be forced to share (at the end of a gun
barrel if necessary) their beliefs. History is rife with
religious-inspired massacres that make Hitler look like a piker."
This comparison of the previous poster with Hitler, and a general
condemnation of religion ( with NO previous mention of religion that I can
find) absolutely does not belong on an EV list. His continued sarcasm and
mockery serve only to insult and inflame. Can you imagine anyone else on
this list making a comment like that? Does this even have a remote
connection to EV's?
He even has the audacity to preach to us about politeness:
"My mom taught me that there are two things one never discusses in
polite company. Politics and religion. EV and enviro-zealotry
contain elements of both. Why don't we all be polite and just not
discuss things that involve either or both? Simple as that."
I'm sure he is just looking for attention - and unfortunately we ( including
me) are supplying him with it.
Without him we would spend less time arguing and more time talking about
EV's
Phil Marino
_________________________________________________________________
Don�t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I thought this whole thing was supposed to be a private poll offlist?
With so many people jumping in to defend the immature guy, I'll go
ahead and make my reply public to represent the other side.
At 3:42 PM -0800 3-22-05, Otmar wrote:
Dump him. The sooner the better.
Unless, of course he can cooperate with the communications standards
of our society. We don't need trolling web trash spoiling our list.
He has interesting experience, but often quotes facts which are
incorrect. I don't bother correcting him since he's so immature.
We have a valuable list, I've been on it over ten years. Immature
communication does spoil it.
So there's my opinion: Delete him.
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm about to start the hardest part of my EV project, ripping the heart out of
a perfectly good
(albeit gas guzzling) car so I can electrify it. I have the car, I have the
motor, I have the
traction pack, and I just bought an engine hoist. I even have a nice pair of
Curtis contactors.
Hopefully by this weekend I'll finally make some tangible progress. I've been
planning and
preparing for almost a year now. It will feel good to finally walk the walk. I
have no excuses
left, so here I go.
Here are the details;
Donor car - 1987 Porsche 944, preconversion weight 2700lbs. CD around .35
Motor - Advanced DC 9", barely used for it's age
Pack - Lot's of NiCads for cold New England winters
The last few pieces I'll have to pick up on the way; a Zilla 1K, maybe a
PFC-20, an Emeter, and of
course, a well made adapter plate. And lot's of little bits and pieces. Any
help on sourcing these
items, new or used, would be appreciated. I have a URL but nothing to show for
it yet. When I get
something up I'll send a link.
Thanks again for all your information and inspiration.
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all
A question for those who have had link 10 / E-meter repairs done, I have
had a link 10 brought to me for repair. Having never had one in my hand
before, I don't know what current they draw and if the processor normally
warms up. So I would like some advice before I get into it or send it away.
From what the owner tells me I think it has been mis-connected re the
120VDC pack, it is certainly not happy.
Symptoms are: no lights lit (at all), power supply is running, and whining.
The biggest chip (the processor) is getting warm, and the unit is drawing
around 200 to 250mA from 12V.
Do I look for something? do I just send it to the nearest Xantrex service
center? does it have to go to Xantrex themselves? Is it beyond economic repair?
Any advice welcome.
Thanks
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 23 Mar 2005 at 18:39, Otmar wrote:
> I thought this whole thing was supposed to be a private poll offlist?
You are correct; it was and IS supposed to remain offlist.
Please, please, don't maintain this thread. I did not intend for this to be
discussed on the listserver! In my original post, I gave a specific address
for
replies, and I apologize if that was not sufficiently clear. Yikes.
I definitely would like to have your views on this matter, but please don't
reply
to this message with them. Instead, put them in a >>>private<<< email to
me.
To be as clear as possible on this:
DO NOT REPLY to this message.
Do not click the reply button now.
Instead, open a NEW message directed to the address below:
e v d l at d r m m dot n e t
Note: the above address is somewhat obfuscated. I think most people here
can figure it out without my having to post the actual address in front of
Jeremy Jaynes and everybody. ;-)
Thanks!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
KTA Services and ElectroAuto. I'm not impressed for
various reasons with any other vendors at this point.
Ken Koch (KTA) has a web-based catalog, but doesn't do
e-mail. His hard-copy catalog will be worth its'
wait, and he is an E.E., so he will give you the
straight scoop on many issues.
Mike Brown & Shari Prange have on-road experience and
support VoltsRabbit/VoltsPorsche. Ken farms out
adapter plates to EVCC; not sure where Mike gets his
done.
Congratulations, and good luck!
--- Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I'm about to start the hardest part of my EV
> project, ripping the heart out of a perfectly good
> (albeit gas guzzling) car so I can electrify it. I
> have the car, I have the motor, I have the
> traction pack, and I just bought an engine hoist. I
> even have a nice pair of Curtis contactors.
> Hopefully by this weekend I'll finally make some
> tangible progress. I've been planning and
> preparing for almost a year now. It will feel good
> to finally walk the walk. I have no excuses
> left, so here I go.
>
> Here are the details;
> Donor car - 1987 Porsche 944, preconversion weight
> 2700lbs. CD around .35
> Motor - Advanced DC 9", barely used for it's age
> Pack - Lot's of NiCads for cold New England
> winters
>
> The last few pieces I'll have to pick up on the way;
> a Zilla 1K, maybe a PFC-20, an Emeter, and of
> course, a well made adapter plate. And lot's of
> little bits and pieces. Any help on sourcing these
> items, new or used, would be appreciated. I have a
> URL but nothing to show for it yet. When I get
> something up I'll send a link.
>
> Thanks again for all your information and
> inspiration.
>
> Dave Cover
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Make Yahoo! your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Take the following with a grain of salt. (Have owned
E-meters, but never repaired, etc.)
250 mA _sounds_ about right.
They never whine.
Common error is to miswire the DCDC supply.
Xantrex no longer making the E-meter. Perhaps they
will still repair it... This product seems to change
hand often these days...
Best of luck; hopefully you'll get some more responses
from E.E.s out there.
--- James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi all
>
> A question for those who have had link 10 / E-meter
> repairs done, I have
> had a link 10 brought to me for repair. Having never
> had one in my hand
> before, I don't know what current they draw and if
> the processor normally
> warms up. So I would like some advice before I get
> into it or send it away.
>
> From what the owner tells me I think it has been
> mis-connected re the
> 120VDC pack, it is certainly not happy.
>
> Symptoms are: no lights lit (at all), power supply
> is running, and whining.
> The biggest chip (the processor) is getting warm,
> and the unit is drawing
> around 200 to 250mA from 12V.
>
> Do I look for something? do I just send it to the
> nearest Xantrex service
> center? does it have to go to Xantrex themselves? Is
> it beyond economic repair?
>
> Any advice welcome.
>
> Thanks
>
> James
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Also be sure to check and see if your state offers any incentives for
converting vehicles to clean burning fuels. I don't know about Missouri,
but I seem to remember Illinois offering up to $5,000 in tax rebates.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Westlund" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2005 11:31 AM
> Subject: Re: New To Group
>
>
>> Mark Ward wrote:
>>
>>>I am in MO and am new to the group.
>>
>> Welcome. Where at in Missouri are you from? Happen to be in
>> the St. Louis area by any chance? I'm doing a conversion and
>> would love to help with yours or at the very least get in
>> touch with another building an EV. I may need some help
>> myself later on anyway, so having another building an EV
>> near me would be a great way to learn some info and gain
>
> Thanks for the feedback. I am in St. Charles, MO.
>
> It will take me a while to absorb all the info, and I am still deciding on
> a
> "donor" for the project. Wife says to stick to nicer car that we can
> keep
> for a while. I am liking the conversions I am seeing from Honda Civics,
> the Geo being a smaller car.
>
> :-)
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A lot of us would probably find it hard to rip into a Porsche 944.
I think it's much too good a car to cut up for a conversion in
my never so humble opinion.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Cover" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EVList" <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2005 7:33 PM
Subject: Hardest part of the conversion
I'm about to start the hardest part of my EV project, ripping the heart
out of a perfectly good
(albeit gas guzzling) car so I can electrify it. I have the car, I have
the motor, I have the
traction pack, and I just bought an engine hoist. I even have a nice pair
of Curtis contactors.
Hopefully by this weekend I'll finally make some tangible progress. I've
been planning and
preparing for almost a year now. It will feel good to finally walk the
walk. I have no excuses
left, so here I go.
Here are the details;
Donor car - 1987 Porsche 944, preconversion weight 2700lbs. CD around .35
Motor - Advanced DC 9", barely used for it's age
Pack - Lot's of NiCads for cold New England winters
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> <snip>
>>
>> e v d l at d r m m period n e t
>
> Hi'
>
> Do you mean:
>
> evdl@ -snipped-
>
>
> If this doesn't work or is wrong, I vote VERY positive.
>
Just out of curiosity, did you intend to make it easier for spambots to
find his email address or did you not realize he was trying to prevent
that?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm looking at the sprockets and chains available at:
http://surpluscenter.com
It appears that the 50 Pitch sprockets will give me
the most options for choosing various gearing ratios.
- They have 10-30,34, and 40 teeth sprockets.
- These appear to be 7/8" bore with keyways, matching the e-tek?
http://surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?numrec=22&sort=1&search=Sprocket%2050P%207/8
- I'm thinking of using 34:10,:11,:12,:13,:14,:15 for
- reduction ratios of 3.40, 3.09, 2.83, 2.62, etc to 1.
- I'de like to use the 40T for 4.00 and 3.64 to 1, but it
- may be to large for my application with an OD of ?8.3"
Anyway, My real question is will these sprockets and chains
be able to handle the power/torque of an e-tek motor?
http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=1-1163-50
L8r
Ryan
ps. Here are some electric clutches rated for 75 ft-lb,
would an e-tek break one of these? I realize they use belts...
http://surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?numrec=25&sort=1&search=Clutch
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You need to check your state laws. DOT specs don't necessarily apply to
custom vehicles, but as far as I know, all states have state specific
requirements.
For example, some states have laws about: how high/low the headlights can
be located, maximum intensity levels, color, minimum intensity levels, how
they should be pointed, etc.
You can probably do an on-line search on:
(name of state) motor vehicle statue
if statue doesn't get results try law
You can also try:
www.(two letter abbrivation for state).gov
and drill down, i.e. for Arizona:
www.az.gov
which auto forwards you to http://az.gov/webapp/portal/
where I can either click on "bills/laws"
or (usually better) I can do an agency search for the department of
transportation or what ever they call it in your state.
So I search for ADOT (Arizona Department Of Transportation) and find:
www.azdot.gov
and eventually drill down to the motor vehicle division where I find the
statues and rules
www.azdot.gov/mvd/mvdrules/rules.asp
Getting the information directly from your state is MUCH better than
asking the list. List opinion is frequently just that, an "opinion",
whereas from the state you get the LAW. Plus if you know where the
appropriate LAW is then you can point this out if, by chance, you ever
have a problem with LAW enforcement.
> No, I mean properly installed facing forward with a high and low beam.
>
> Do the DOT specs even apply fully to custom vehicles? I know that
> motorcycles must have controls and markings in certain places, but a lot
> of custom motorcycles have "unusual" controls, like the ones without any
> hand levers (brakes or clutch) on the handlebars, where the clutch is a
> twist grip on the left. I think some of that stuff only applies to
> production vehicles over a certain quantity.
>
> Victor Tikhonov wrote:
>
>> In short, no it does not. Depends how you install them.
>>
>> Inatall DOT approved headlights facing back to punish
>> tailgaters (or similar odd locations), and you get BIG
>> ticket at very least.
>>
>>
>> Eric Poulsen wrote:
>>
>>> When purchasing headlights, if it says it "Meets DOT requirements,"
>>> does that mean that it's road legal?
>>
>>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
While browsing through AZ motor vehicle statues I came across this
definition:
"Electric personal assistive mobility device" means a self-balancing two
nontandem wheeled device with an electric propulsion system that limits
the maximum speed of the device to fifteen miles per hour or less and that
is designed to transport only one person.
Hmm, I wonder what IT could be? A quick google shows that most states now
include this, or a similar, definition.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
I'm thinking of designing and building a sort of docking station for
EVs. This would be in the future - I have plenty of things to keep me
busy right now. I'd like to know if anything already exists like what
I'm thinking.
It would be something about the size/weight of a small floor jack. It
would plug in. When you pulled over it, and a sensor-system detected it
was in line, it would raise up and make the connection to begin
charging. Even though it is fun to plug in the fuel-door, sometimes
you're in a hurry and don't want to think about it. If you had this
charging dock, it would all happen automatically. All you'd have to do
is pull in or back in with even a little accuracy. You could have a
charging dock LED somewhere on the dash or in the vehicle that would
light up when it was docked (of course you'd hear the charger snap on too).
Anyone seen anything like this? The only thing that in my mind is fuzzy
is how you would make a weather-proof connection that would constantly
be subject to road grime, dust, moisture, and dirt. The connection
would have to handle 220 or 120 VAC, at whatever current your charger
was soaking up.
What do you think? Do-able? Already done? I think this could appeal
to people that didn't want to think about plugging in.
-Ryan
--
- EV Source -
Zillas, PFC Chargers, and other EV stuff at great prices
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I have been sucking up the info like crazy. Interestingly I am also a
teacher and work in a vocational career center with a lot of resouces and
resourceful people.
Sounds like you would be in a position to show a lot of peope what a ev
could be , . If I was doing a conversion for the first time I would run
everthing by the list , don't be afraid to ask anything , ( about EV's ) .
The more info you give the better advice you get . . .
technology and at the License bureau the other day I got a blank stare
when I asked how EV's are licensed.
Its the way you ask , " My engine was running bad and leaking oil , If I
take it out and put a Smaller motor in that dosn't leak oil
can I still get it licensed" . You may still get a blank stare but no
problems .
My best neighbor friend is going to take me to the auto auction where
hopefully I can find a good donor car. He tells me one's with blown
engines, oil puddlers, etc. with nice bodys are available cheap, so we
will see what happens.
It is almost a must that it have a standard tranny and not a automatic, of
course there are ways around this .
In my case I am able to fabricate or weld most of the metal hardware, have
the advantage of a body shop (which I will avoid by getting a better car)
and my background in EE will certainly be an asset.
Sounds good .
A question for anyone.....How do you get the AC to run?
The easy way is to start with a working AC and hook it to the tail shaft ,
you can put a bigger pully on the motor if you thing it isn't trunning fast
enough , I put a smaller pully as the AC seems to work when the gas engine
is ideling.
I notice some cars
have it. It would seem to me even a double-shaft drive motor would not
maintain enough speed to keep the compressor running adequately. Other
methods would seem power hungry.
slowing down 1 or 2 MPH will compansate for the AC power use.
Also to anyone. I have a good source for marine deep cycle batteries.
I would be supprized if anybody here says use them , unless you are really
getting them cheep ,
Electro battery is near where I live. I can get some Deep cycles in 105
or better AH. Is anyone using these?
Yes even though may said don't , I did , cus I got them so cheep , still
didn't pay. When I'm talking to people about what they want I call them the
" go fast or go far batteries "
I haven't run the math (will do when
time comes) since I haven't picked the car, motor, etc, yet, so I am
looking for experience, cost, lifespan, and so on with the various types
of batts.
I have used both golf cart and excide orbitals becuse , sometimes I go fast
and other times go far :-)
My driving is going to average no more than 20-25 miles per day, mostly
local.
and how fast , and how much do you have to spend. ( when talking to people
about doing a conversion is it O K ask about how much money they can afford
, so as to be able to advise better ? :- ) .
----------------------------------------
The wiring and other issues seem simple enough, and I have pulled enough
wiring diagrams and tech specs on a lot of the hardware already to
determine that won't be a problem. Another friend works for a large
industrial motor company in STL, and is going to see if he can hook me up
with an Advanced 8"
There are some on the ev trader also,
So I am pretty much in the acquiring stage at this time, both info and as
things develop, the parts.
Have you been for a ride in a 120v or higher EV .
Steve Clunn
www.grassrootsev.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
"Electric personal assistive mobility device" means a self-balancing
two nontandem wheeled device with an electric propulsion system that
limits the maximum speed of the device to fifteen miles per hour or
less and that is designed to transport only one person.
Hmm, I wonder what IT could be? A quick google shows that most states
now include this, or a similar, definition.
Yes, Segway paid a fleet of lawyers reportedly well over a million
dollars to lobby for this legislation in almost all (if not all) the
states.
People were crying about it at the time saying it was an unfairly narrow
definition, but given the general lack of positive legislation on PEVs,
I recommended that people support the Segway legislation, then lobby to
expand the narrow definition in following years. I believe it is easier
to modify existing legislation than to enact new legislation all
together in this case.
-Ken Trough
Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM - ktrough
FAX - 801-749-7807
message - 866-872-8901
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.sandsmuseum.com/cars/elise/information/press/press/press1996/prelec.html
http://www.econogics.com/ev/evperf.htm
30-70 in 5 seconds, 0-90 in 11.2 seconds, 200 horsepower,
0-60 probably around 5 seconds, 150 lb-ft of torque, 90 MPH
top speed(governed), 1,930 pound curb weight, 100-120 mile
range per charge, charge from 0% in about an hour.
One sweet ass car, but I think they could have done better.
The 90 MPH top end is the turnoff. Everything else seems
just the way it should be. Should have had a two-speed
transmission though, one gear for 0-80, and another for
80-150+ for those times Ponch and John aren't around at a
speed trap.
Those motors are a piece of work as well. 100 horsepower
from each motor, and 75 lb-ft of peak torque, and they only
weigh 29 pounds each! Hell, I can only drool at the thought
of having 3 of them in my Triumph. 300 horsepower and 225
lb-ft of torque would be perfect for the Optima pack I have
planned, and a modest torque number like such wouldn't tear
my tranny a new asshole while the high horsepower would
really allow me to make some evil 1/4 mile passes. I bet
that control system is very pricey...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Tom Shay wrote:
>A lot of us would probably find it hard to rip into a
>Porsche 944.
>I think it's much too good a car to cut up for a
>conversion in
>my never so humble opinion.
I'm sort of on the opposite end of the spectrum here. I
think it's much too porky for a 'sports car' to even
consider cutting it up for conversion.
I'm sure a good conversion can be made from one though. LOTS
of battery room.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How about an inductive connection instead of a direct
connection. Car drives up and drops into a shallow
wheel well which pushes the inductor (half a
Transformer) up to the other half mount to the car.
Can't get any more automatic than that. Maybe use the
Mobile Speed pass idea to gather funds to pay for the
power. Think in terms of the Auto car Wash.
Could be a blue tooth connection for feedback from the
cars electric system for how much it required.
--- Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm thinking of designing and building a sort of
> docking station for
> EVs. This would be in the future - I have plenty of
> things to keep me
> busy right now. I'd like to know if anything
> already exists like what
> I'm thinking.
>
> It would be something about the size/weight of a
> small floor jack. It
> would plug in. When you pulled over it, and a
> sensor-system detected it
> was in line, it would raise up and make the
> connection to begin
> charging. Even though it is fun to plug in the
> fuel-door, sometimes
> you're in a hurry and don't want to think about it.
> If you had this
> charging dock, it would all happen automatically.
> All you'd have to do
> is pull in or back in with even a little accuracy.
> You could have a
> charging dock LED somewhere on the dash or in the
> vehicle that would
> light up when it was docked (of course you'd hear
> the charger snap on too).
>
> Anyone seen anything like this? The only thing that
> in my mind is fuzzy
> is how you would make a weather-proof connection
> that would constantly
> be subject to road grime, dust, moisture, and dirt.
> The connection
> would have to handle 220 or 120 VAC, at whatever
> current your charger
> was soaking up.
>
> What do you think? Do-able? Already done? I think
> this could appeal
> to people that didn't want to think about plugging
> in.
>
> -Ryan
> --
> - EV Source -
> Zillas, PFC Chargers, and other EV stuff at great
> prices
> E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
>
>
Future 72 Super Beetle conversion in progress
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 13:21:30 -0800, Roger Stockton
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Mike [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > Is it possible to adjust the front and rear brakes so they don't drag
> > without replacing the entire wheel cylinder (they are special
> > order).
>
> There is no adjustment for disk brakes ((which you have on the front).
>
> Want you can do here is to ensure that the calipers move freely on their
> mounting pins and that the pistons are not seized (pry them back away
> from the disk slightly to verify that they do move).
What I often find after replacing brake pads is that the brakes bind
afterwards. (I'm talking about single cylinder disk brakes). Even
with the slide bolts very well freed off and lubricated. Each time it
has been due to corrosion on the exposed part of the piston, since it
has obviously been in an extended position for several years as the
pads wore down.
When the piston is pitted and corroded like this, it has much higher
friction when the corroded part is pushed into the cylinder due to the
new, wider pads. So it doesn't back off properly. Also, it'll damage
the seal and eventually leak.
Replacing the whole caliper is often the only solution as the piston
and even the seal are not available seperately.
I always use engine braking so I don't go through a lot of brake pads
but this is the drawback!
If replacement parts are not available, it may be feasible to "skim"
the cylinder to remove the worst of the corrosion, but if it's chrome
plated that'll be a bad idea too.
--- End Message ---
