EV Digest 4231
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: From the Wayland EV Laboratory...the Siamese 8!
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Link 1000
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) PEV "hood ornament", 200kv DC/DC? EV security?
by Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Sony Lions w/3min.recharge time, gives 3hrs run time?
by Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Sony Lions w/3min.recharge time, gives 3hrs run time?
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) article: Small car firm makes a big name for itself
by Paul Wujek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: EV Efficiency - chargers - efficiency vs power factor
by "Philip Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Dual rear chain drive in conversions
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Desirable amp hours
by Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: PEV "hood ornament", 200kv DC/DC? EV security?
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: article: Small car firm makes a big name for itself
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: EV Efficiency
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: adapter ideas
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: adapter ideas
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Desirable amp hours
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Adapter Ideas
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Adapter plate Ideas
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Adapter Ideas
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: PEV "hood ornament", 200kv DC/DC? EV security?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: PEV "hood ornament", 200kv DC/DC? EV security?
by Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Adapter Ideas
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Adapter Ideas
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: article: Small car firm makes a big name for itself
by keith vansickle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) VW Adapter
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: article: Small car firm makes a big name for itself
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: article: Small car firm makes a big name for itself
by "John Westlund" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: article: Small car firm makes a big name for itself
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: article: Small car firm makes a big name for itself
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Insurance for my EV in B.C.
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: Desirable amp hours
by Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: PEV "hood ornament", 200kv DC/DC? EV security?
by Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Wow. Anychance of a pic of that new motor combo? LR.........
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
though i don't understand why, i read on the Xantrex doc only the link 10
work with the optional prescaler
Philippe
Et si le pot d'�chappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les v�hicules �lectriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 12:42 AM
Subject: Link 1000
> Hi,
>
> In the PV system (see http://www.ironandwood.org/graphics/RV_PV.pdf) on my
> 5th wheel I have a Link 1000 as a system monitor. If I remember correctly
> only difference between the Link 10 and 1000 is that it has a JR45 link to
> the Freedom series inverter/charger, so that it can equalize the battery
> bank.
>
> The last function on the face is the time remaining which goes from CCC,
> (which is battery charging or 100% charged) to 255 min and then on down or
> up depending upon usage. It is so sensitive that even now, while I am
> putting 10 amps (at 12 V from my PV panels) into my batteries I can turn
on
> and off the booster for the TV and the rate changes from CCC to 255.
>
> My reason for all of the above is - if the 1000 was in my EV could the
time
> estimate be used to determine how many miles were left on the pack?
>
> Rush
> Tucson AZ
> converting a '86 Mitsubishi truck
> www.ironandwood.org
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm a PEV rider, so jealous of you guys with your EV hood ornaments...
I'm planning my nextgen PEV as a front-wheel drive (hub motor) standup
kick scoot w/rear steering by skateboard truck-type mechanism. I'm
calling it my Draisine, or Dray, to honour Karl von Drais and his
running machine.
So, something like the eSkate, but with a deck to stand on (better for
old guys, eh?)
eSkate here, for example:
http://store.nycewheels.com/eskate.html
I don't know how, but I would like to incorporate a Wimshurst Generator
into the mix. (Mounted beside and spin by the hub motor, or mounted
above w/friction drive...)
Wimshurst? See, for example:
http://www.coe.ufrj.br/~acmq/wimshurst.html
What to do with 200,000 volts? OK, might only be 75kv... might be
300kv...
I can imagine some sort of Jacob's Ladder built into the handlebar
downtube (or whatever it's called.)
Jacobs Ladder? Something like this:
http://freespace.virgin.net/michael.tucknott/jacobs.htm
or here:
http://www.emanator.demon.co.uk/bigclive/jacobs.htm
It *looks* like some of framing on my dray could incorporate simple
"Leyden Jars" as charge accumulators...or should I just pick up a few
of those honkin' great surplus caps I see around?
Should I be thinking about more serious stuff to do with a Wimshurst
than an "EV hood ornament" (Ladder)?
Any way to stuff this charge into my 24-36v batt pack? Or straight to
the motor for a second or few of assist for acceleration from stop (ie
assist the SLA's?) That'd be quite a DC/DC black box?
I believe I'm talking tiny ahrs here, but wouldn't the higher voltages
offset this a bit?
And, could the jars/caps serve somehow as a one-shot theft deterence
device somehow? (Think Cap'n Nemo's Nautilus-light here)
Wouldn't engaging the Wimshurst cause a braking effect?
Thanks for any thoughts...
Lock Hughes
e-Legal in Canada and loving it.
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sony is releasing a new series of Mp3 players, and they claim a 3min.
recharge time for a lion batt that provides 3hrs of run-time.
http://www.sony-europe.com/PageView.do?site=odw_en_EU&page=PressReleaseDetail§ion=en_EU_Press&pressrelease=1109586832346
or tiny:
http://tinyurl.com/4jumw
I realize the music players are solid state, so must be using very tiny
amounts of power to drive earbuds, but still... only 3mins to recharge
a lion batt of some sort?
I'd guessed at first that Sony had gone to caps instead of a batt, so
was surprised to see it's lion chemistry...
It's just that I'd like to see those sorts of numbers for my next
PEV!!! OK, I'd settle for 10 mins to recharge and a 60 min run time on
the scooter<grin>. With my current scoot and SLA's, even with my
Soneil, it's more like 2.5+hrs recharge (from 80%dod) for 40 mins run
time...
Is it just because of tiny batt sizes and tiny power consumption levels
that Sony can tout these sorts of numbers, recharge time vs run time
for lion, or is this something new in lion charging tech?
Thanks for any replies...
Lock Hughes
e-Legal in Toronto and loving it.
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Its great but it means they are not charging to 100% and certainly reducing
cells life a lot !
though this is not really a problem as actual li-ion cells go near 50%
original capacity on 3 or 4 year of birth :^(
Philippe
Et si le pot d'�chappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les v�hicules �lectriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lock Hughes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 1:19 PM
Subject: Sony Lions w/3min.recharge time, gives 3hrs run time?
> Sony is releasing a new series of Mp3 players, and they claim a 3min.
> recharge time for a lion batt that provides 3hrs of run-time.
>
>
http://www.sony-europe.com/PageView.do?site=odw_en_EU&page=PressReleaseDetail§ion=en_EU_Press&pressrelease=1109586832346
>
> or tiny:
> http://tinyurl.com/4jumw
>
>
> I realize the music players are solid state, so must be using very tiny
> amounts of power to drive earbuds, but still... only 3mins to recharge
> a lion batt of some sort?
>
> I'd guessed at first that Sony had gone to caps instead of a batt, so
> was surprised to see it's lion chemistry...
>
> It's just that I'd like to see those sorts of numbers for my next
> PEV!!! OK, I'd settle for 10 mins to recharge and a 60 min run time on
> the scooter<grin>. With my current scoot and SLA's, even with my
> Soneil, it's more like 2.5+hrs recharge (from 80%dod) for 40 mins run
> time...
>
> Is it just because of tiny batt sizes and tiny power consumption levels
> that Sony can tout these sorts of numbers, recharge time vs run time
> for lion, or is this something new in lion charging tech?
>
> Thanks for any replies...
>
> Lock Hughes
> e-Legal in Toronto and loving it.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This article talks about an EV kit car, available in the U.K., it is
interesting because the kit is exclusively EV, unfortunately no
technical details are given.
link:
http://www.expressandstar.com/artman/publish/article_72990.php
--
Paul Wujek ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You're right - I was just thinking about efficiency at peak output of the
charger. The KWH measurement, as you say, is the way to really measure
overall efficiency, and will probably be lower.
Phil
From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: EV Efficiency - chargers - efficiency vs power factor
Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 21:30:12 -0700 (MST)
No. You, and several others, are confusing PEAK efficiency with overall
average effeciency. The peak efficiency of a charger (even a cheap one)
probably exceeds 90%, but the average efficiency, over the complete charge
cycle, is 80% or less.
In order to accurately measure the average efficiency, you need to plug
the charger into a (accurate) KWH meter and use another KWH meter on the
DC side. You need to look at Kilowatt HOURS not just instantaneous KW to
determine the average efficiency.
> I think there is some confusion between a charger's power factor and its
> efficiency.
>
> A real light dimmer ( the one in the wall in your living room) is very
> efficient. If it were even as low as 90% efficient, it would produce
much
> more heat that it could disipate inside a wall electrical box. It can
> have
> a very low power factor, but that doesn't necessarily mean low
> efficiency.,
>
> I've never seen a K&W charger ( basically a smart light dimmer) in
> operation, but, unless they dissipate a LOT of heat, it's hard to
imagine
> them having efficiency as low as 70%. If that were true, and the
charger
> were delivering 1000 watts into the batteries, it would have to
dissipate
> more than 400 watts in heat. Do these things really give off that much
> heat?
>
> I'm just talking about the effiiency of the charger itself; that is, how
> much power it pushes into the batteries as a percentage of power it
takes
> out of the wall socket. The batteries themselves are probably much less
> efficient than the charger. That's a whole different question.
>
> If you want to know the efficiency of your charger, plug it into a
Kill-a
> Watt ( and measure real watts, not volt-amps) and divide that power by
the
> DC power out of the charger ( example : 120V at 8 amps).
> Tell us what you come up with.
>
> Phil Marino
>
>
>
>>From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>Reply-To: [email protected]
>>To: [email protected]
>>Subject: Re: EV Efficiency
>>Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 08:25:39 -0700 (MST)
>>
>> >> > Battery chargers average about 80% efficient.
>> >>
>> >> Many are better than that and any EV production
>> >> would be. About 90% or better.
>> >
>> > Where are you seeing anything like 90%? Maybe Rich can tell us what
>> his
>> > PFC
>> > series averages, because all the ones I've dealt with (and probably
>> the
>> > scrounged-up one's you use) can't average themselves out of the 70's!
>>
>>I was trying to be generous, obviously some folks are more generous than
>>others.
>>I was also assuming that high quality chargers, like the ones from
>>Solectria, Metric Mind, and Rich, were much better than my K&W.
>>
>>Please don't think I'm dissing the K&W, it gets the job done and, other
>>than problems finding replacement fuses, it's been reliable. I just
>> don't
>>consider it a very 'high tech' or efficient charger.
>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Don�t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
> http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Don�t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lightning Ryan wrote:
I believe Gone Postal is now uses a Triple Chain per side, though I think
that both sides are also linked, anyway, there are photos here:
http://www.suckamps.com/index.php?page=postal_van_rebuild_photos
Those are little wimpy photos :^D
Much bigger ones here-
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/page01.htm
On this page in particular-
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/gallery02.htm
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ryan Stotts writes:
>
> This got me thinking. Say for example, I could only fit 12 Optimas
> for a 144v system. That's ok for our current DC setups. But when we
> start playing with AC in the near future. Would be nice to have 12,
> 16 volt bats for 192v vs 144v. Or even better, some 24v bats for 288v
> or even better... those 42v batteries at 504v... Nice..a 504v AC
> system from 12 batteries.. Think about the crazy high voltages we
> could run with 42v batteries.
>
> When the situation is you've only got space for 12, what are you going to do?
Use a larger number of smaller batteries. You end up with about the
same weight in lead, but now you can have a higher pack voltage.
Ralph
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Lock , there is still a page on the grassroots web site for hood
ornaments http://www.grassrootsev.com/wmho.htm
You can alway send a gen on the wheel there but be carful as they excite
easly ,
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lock Hughes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Should I be thinking about more serious stuff to do with a Wimshurst
than an "EV hood ornament" (Ladder)?
yes , but some how their fun , I have been toying around with the idea of
making a water pump for the zilla with one , . I like the idea of having
the brakes power it (make a arc), . could have a small ac motor that is
engaged when brakes are used , then pump it up with Wimshurst , what in put
dose it take? . now how cool would that be , put on the brakes and a arc
starts climbing the HO on the hood of your car till it come to a stop.
Any way to stuff this charge into my 24-36v batt pack? Or straight to
the motor for a second or few of assist for acceleration from stop (ie
assist the SLA's?) That'd be quite a DC/DC black box?
I believe I'm talking tiny ahrs here, but wouldn't the higher voltages
offset this a bit?
you need amps not hi volts to charge the batteries , I'm not sure waht a
wimshurst is , missed that part
steve clunn
And, could the jars/caps serve somehow as a one-shot theft deterence
device somehow? (Think Cap'n Nemo's Nautilus-light here)
Wouldn't engaging the Wimshurst cause a braking effect?
Thanks for any thoughts...
Lock Hughes
e-Legal in Canada and loving it.
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Here is a pic (about half way down)
http://www.totalkitcar.com/tkc_article_881.php Look for the Jimini Trend-E.
This is their web site, but it is sparse: http://www.jimini-cars.co.uk and
does not detail anything about the Trend-E
It looks like they took the Austin Mini "Moke" and are continuing to make it
in kit form. The Trend-E is an all electric version.
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Paul Wujek
Sent: March 26, 2005 4:48 AM
To: EV List
Subject: article: Small car firm makes a big name for itself
This article talks about an EV kit car, available in the U.K., it is
interesting because the kit is exclusively EV, unfortunately no technical
details are given.
link:
http://www.expressandstar.com/artman/publish/article_72990.php
--
Paul Wujek ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 05:05 PM 3/25/2005, Ryan Stotts wrote:
> This is probably common knowledge to most on the list, but in some states
> you can sign up for 100% wind power at your home.
I could sign up for it too. It would cost more. The fact is though,
I'm already using it and so is everyone else. Those wind turbines are
hooked up to the grid. There is no way someone is not already on
"wind power":
Except that if people don't sign up to pay the extra for it, the power
companies won't build more.
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nice job on the fly wheel , I have though of doing this a few times but
didn't want to mess up a flywheel if it didn't work. Where did you get the
taper lock hub.
Now what is that generator doing on the front of your motor ;_0 ,
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reverend Gadget" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, March 25, 2005 9:41 PM
Subject: adapter ideas
I was able to post some pictures of the flywheel
install to my website. The whole process was really
simple, cheap and universal. To modify the flywheel,
weld in the adapter, and drill the pilot hole in the
motor shaft, cut out the adapter plate, and put the
whole thing together took less than 4 hours.
The stuff can be found here.
http://reverendgadget.com/subpage.html
Gadget
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The Taperlok is a sprocket from mcmaster carr supply
with the teeth knocked off it was then press fit into
the flywheel and welded. It worked like a charm.
Gadget
--- STEVE CLUNN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Nice job on the fly wheel , I have though of doing
> this a few times but
> didn't want to mess up a flywheel if it didn't work.
> Where did you get the
> taper lock hub.
>
> Now what is that generator doing on the front of
> your motor ;_0 ,
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Reverend Gadget" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, March 25, 2005 9:41 PM
> Subject: adapter ideas
>
>
> >I was able to post some pictures of the flywheel
> > install to my website. The whole process was
> really
> > simple, cheap and universal. To modify the
> flywheel,
> > weld in the adapter, and drill the pilot hole in
> the
> > motor shaft, cut out the adapter plate, and put
> the
> > whole thing together took less than 4 hours.
> >
> > The stuff can be found here.
> > http://reverendgadget.com/subpage.html
> >
> > Gadget
> >
> > visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
> >
> >
>
>
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ralph Merwin wrote:
>> When the situation is you've only got space for 12, what are you
>> going to do?
> Use a larger number of smaller batteries. You end up with about the
> same weight in lead, but now you can have a higher pack voltage.
Yes, this is the standard solution. It's because all the common DC motor
controllers are based on the buck converter, which can only step voltage
down.
But there *are* high-power boost converters. Toyota uses one in the
2004-2005 Prius. International Rectifier has an application note on one
for traction motors. Rich Rudman's PFC chargers are boost converters.
With a boost converter based controller, you have a lower-voltage
battery pack and boost the voltage to the motor. At minimum throttle, it
is essentially straight-thru. As you increase the throttle, it boosts
the voltage to increase motor speed.
Why might this be desirable? From the battery's perspective, it lets you
use fewer higher-capacity batteries, wich are generally cheaper,
longer-lived, and more reliable than many small-capacity batteries. For
example, 6v instead of 8v or 12v batteries.
--
Ring the bells that you can ring
Forget your perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in
-- Leonard Cohen, from "Anthem"
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It hardly matters if
there is 1 or 100 holes. I can imagine a plate covered with 1/8" holes
drilled partway thru,
You mean kind of a nice, semi-perforated outline so it knows right where to
break?
Shari Prange
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A generic adapter doesn't automatically mean a lower cost.
CNC cost is setup + runtime and extra holes per plate means extra
cost per plate Although if you only drill partway thru and don't tap
then there is a 50% savings per hole. We would still end up with more
than one because of overlapping holes. If you have really small runs,
the setup cost dominates and 1 or 10 is about same cost 100 holes only a
litle more, but if you run 10 per batch off of a jig, every couple of
monthes then the detail level of the plate will dominate cost. I am
trying to find out now where the price break point is.
Jig saw? OMG. I think if I paid $100 for an alum plate that had holes to
drill and tap and a profile to cut with a jigsaw I would be disapointed.
I want to bring non-machinist weekend car buffs into the fold, They can
use wrenches and... screwdrivers. With the profile cut with an abrasive
water jet, the cost is about the same per plate, I could even have 4
differnt adapters per sheet, same cost. It is just $/runtime, I can
control the cost a little by choosing differnt material thickness
(thicker = slower) and differnt desired accuracy which can chanege the
feed rate and thus the cost.
I thought about cutting the profile of the transmission and I wonder,
how much do the stock castings vary? Would I be forced to make it a tad
oversize to insure it came up to surface on all trannies in the run?
Is trimming it to the transmission the most desired option? here
http://cvevs.jfs-tech.com I actally extended the plate upward to a flat
so I could bolt a shelf or box on top and outward to mount to the frame
rails for that wheel standing torque ;-) The larger shape would
encompase more configurations, but has higher material costs.
water jet <$50, CNC <$25, 5/8 alum ~20 = $95
Bell about $40
4140 taperlock adapter and pseudo hub, perhaps with iuntegrated flywheel
<$100
still looking to be over $300 for the adapter set :-(
Aluminum is expensive, but maybe once I am making 10 at a time I can get
alum cheaper
I was thinking of standardizeing on a particular clutch, This is the
most costly and controversial decision.
Using surplus 7" tilton dual plates means my adapters are all the same,
tilton will make any disk with any splined hub for me.
I had to make my own throw out bearing carrier. This is the biggest
issue, If I instead make each adapter mate to each stock flywheel then
every bell will have a different depth and every taperlock would have a
differnt pattern and that is a lot of work and a lot of cost only in
stocking all the combinations that people may or may not order. Notice
this sounds contradictory to what I was saying about the adapter plates,
but since they are done in 2 stages at two different shops I can have 20
plates waterjet cut in stock and CNC the holes as orders come in.
The tilton combined with the integrated flywheel adapter would handle
800 lb-ft of torque and have a rotating mass about one tenth of the
stock and would completely fit thr4ough the 11" hole in the previously
mentioned plate. This aloows me to leave the tranny in the car and pull
the motor or leave the motor in the car and pull the tranny
lots of choices.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I like this idea! In these days of CNC milling machines, it shouldn't be
too hard or expensive to produce such an adapter. It hardly matters if
there is 1 or 100 holes. I can imagine a plate covered with 1/8" holes
drilled partway thru, that comes with a paper template showing you which
holes to finish drilling and to what sizes for your particular adapter.
One problem here is that if you drill a bigger hole form the 1/8 starter
hole your drill may wonder and your holes not be where you wanted. On the
last one I did I used my new idea , I marked the holes with a marker and
them drilled the extra big 5/8 of 3/8 bolts , then cut some 2" squares and
drilled 3/8 " holes in them , bolted it together and welded the squares . In
the past getting 10 tranny holes to line up meant lots of filing.This worked
good .
Jon don't have this page on the web site , its just for us :-)
http://www.grassrootsev.com/projectresearch.htm
steve clunn
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>> Should I be thinking about more serious stuff to do with a Wimshurst
>> than an "EV hood ornament" (Ladder)?
The Wimhurst machine is a high voltage, low current DC "static" electric
generator. Typically, it consists of two glass disks with tinfoil
segments on them, turned in opposite directions with a crank. Brushes
pick up the charge developed.
The Jacobs ladder is two almost-parallel vertical bars, wider at the top
than the bottom. You connect it to a source of medium-voltage
medium-current AC. An arc starts at the bottom, and rises (due to heat)
to the top.
You couldn't power a Jacob's ladder with a Wimhurst machine because it
a) is DC instead of AC, b) doesn't generate enough current, and c) the
voltage is too high.
> I have been toying around with the idea of making a water pump
> for the zilla with one.
Possibly. High voltage motors and pumps are quite unique!
> I like the idea of having the brakes power it (make a arc).
An arc is a good way to "burn up" lots of energy in an impressive way!
Something is going to be used up, however.
> could have a small ac motor that is engaged when brakes are used,
> then pump it up with Wimshurst
There are lots more efficient high voltage genearators than the
200-year-old Wimhurst design.
> now how cool would that be, put on the brakes and a arc starts
> climbing the HO on the hood of your car till it come to a stop.
Very unique! Though a Jacobs ladder usually runs on perhaps 5kv at 50ma
= 250 watts; not much braking energy there.
>> Any way to stuff this charge into my 24-36v batt pack?
There are ways, but there's not enough energy to bother.
>> And, could the jars/caps serve somehow as a one-shot theft deterence
>> device somehow? (Think Cap'n Nemo's Nautilus-light here)
When I bought my ComutaVan, I didn't get the keys to lock the doors. So
I put a "Danger -- High Voltage" sign on it. That was a better theft
deterrent than the locks! I'd see people read the sign, then give it a
*very* wide berth!
--
Ring the bells that you can ring
Forget your perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in
-- Leonard Cohen, from "Anthem"
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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--- Begin Message ---
--- STEVE CLUNN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>I'm not sure waht a wimshurst is , missed that part
Geees John - you missed the most important part! Check this out (or
google for similar):
http://www.coe.ufrj.br/~acmq/wimshurst.html
Can generate up to maybe 300,000 volts with no copper coils or magnets,
lightweight, and it's a simple DIY fab.
Amps are measures in ...ummm... milli's? micro's? nano's? Not sure.
I just thought that a few nano amps times MegaGodzillavolts might even
out somehow to a few watts? Is there no way to accumulate energy in a
can as farads at MegaGv, then release as 36 volts and decent amps?
No chance this state-of-the-art 19th century tech can be pressed into
service for regen or as brake? Just light show? evBug zapper?
Lock
--- STEVE CLUNN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi Lock , there is still a page on the grassroots web site for hood
> ornaments http://www.grassrootsev.com/wmho.htm
> You can alway send a gen on the wheel there but be carful as they
> excite
> easly ,
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lock Hughes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >
> > Should I be thinking about more serious stuff to do with a
> Wimshurst
> > than an "EV hood ornament" (Ladder)?
> >
>
> yes , but some how their fun , I have been toying around with the
> idea of
> making a water pump for the zilla with one , . I like the idea of
> having
> the brakes power it (make a arc), . could have a small ac motor that
> is
> engaged when brakes are used , then pump it up with Wimshurst , what
> in put
> dose it take? . now how cool would that be , put on the brakes and a
> arc
> starts climbing the HO on the hood of your car till it come to a
> stop.
>
>
> > Any way to stuff this charge into my 24-36v batt pack? Or straight
> to
> > the motor for a second or few of assist for acceleration from stop
> (ie
> > assist the SLA's?) That'd be quite a DC/DC black box?
> >
> > I believe I'm talking tiny ahrs here, but wouldn't the higher
> voltages
> > offset this a bit?
> >
> you need amps not hi volts to charge the batteries , I'm not sure
> waht a
> wimshurst is , missed that part
> steve clunn
>
>
> > And, could the jars/caps serve somehow as a one-shot theft
> deterence
> > device somehow? (Think Cap'n Nemo's Nautilus-light here)
> >
> > Wouldn't engaging the Wimshurst cause a braking effect?
> >
> > Thanks for any thoughts...
> >
> > Lock Hughes
> > e-Legal in Canada and loving it.
> >
> >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> > Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
> >
> >
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The pilot hole only needs to be .030" deep, that leaves more than sufficient
structural metal.
Rush
Tucson AZ
converting a '86 Mitsubishi truck
>> It hardly matters if
>>there is 1 or 100 holes. I can imagine a plate covered with 1/8" holes
>>drilled partway thru,
>
> You mean kind of a nice, semi-perforated outline so it knows right where
> to break?
>
> Shari Prange
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Electro Automotive wrote:
> You mean kind of a nice, semi-perforated outline so it knows right
> where to break?
Could be, but not likely. Most holes would be in low-stress areas where
strength won't be affected. Like lightening holes drilled in aircraft
parts.
And, the adapters I've seen are so massively overbuilt (1/2" plate stock
where factory bell housings are only 1/4" or less) that the holes
wouldn't weaken it enough to matter.
--
"The two most common elements in the universe
are hydrogen and stupidity." -- Harlan Ellison
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
why is it when an electric car shows up at a car show
with a bunch of other cars it is always the uglist
boxy looks like junk next to all the others??? If we
are ever going to get folks to like EV's we are going
to have to make them look like that lotus or at least
like a EV-1. something that gets the heart and
emotions going. And we have to make them fun too
--- Don Cameron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Here is a pic (about half way down)
> http://www.totalkitcar.com/tkc_article_881.php Look
> for the Jimini Trend-E.
> This is their web site, but it is sparse:
> http://www.jimini-cars.co.uk and
> does not detail anything about the Trend-E
>
> It looks like they took the Austin Mini "Moke" and
> are continuing to make it
> in kit form. The Trend-E is an all electric
> version.
>
>
>
>
> Victoria, BC, Canada
>
> See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
> www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Paul Wujek
> Sent: March 26, 2005 4:48 AM
> To: EV List
> Subject: article: Small car firm makes a big name
> for itself
>
> This article talks about an EV kit car, available in
> the U.K., it is
> interesting because the kit is exclusively EV,
> unfortunately no technical
> details are given.
>
> link:
>
>
>
http://www.expressandstar.com/artman/publish/article_72990.php
>
> --
> Paul Wujek ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi folks,
I recently picked up a 9" GE with adapter and flywheel from a Bradley GTE
kit. Since the GTE kits were based on the old Beetle chassis, I assume
this adapter would mate up to any similar VW product. My question is, when
did this mounting pattern drop from production? While I know the FWD VWs
are completely different, I assume at least some of the Vanagons were built
either with the air cooled flat four or with a similar water cooled
four. Would these have the same engine mounting face?
Basically, can I find a VW Vanagon that this will bolt up to, or do I need
to go back to the earlier versions? I suppose this would also match up to
a Porsche 914 as well, but finding one without serious rust problems seems
very unlikely.
I am not sure if I am going to build another conversion or not, but I would
like to keep my options open. I seem to be accumulating the parts to do
another EV without even trying.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
'95 Solectria Force
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 26 Mar 2005 at 14:39, keith vansickle wrote:
> why is it when an electric car shows up at a car show
> with a bunch of other cars it is always the uglist
> boxy looks like junk next to all the others???
The point is well taken, but I wouldn't want to discourage anybody from
going to bat on his own conversion just because he doesn't have the time or
skill to make it look great. Sure, rolling science projects aren't
appealling to some "civilians," but you have to start somewhere. (Of course
if we're talking unsafe vehicles - unsecured batteries and the like - that's
another matter entirely.)
If we get to where the lines are forming at gas stations they way they did
in the mid-1970s, believe me, the crudest EV around will start looking good!
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
Crap. Crap, crap, crap, crap, CRAP, Craaa-aaap, crap.
Complete and utter crap.
Seriously, this is nothing but a glorified golf cart,
exactly what won't sell. I can understand their need to go
cheap, but if one must go cheap, go Bradley GTE kind of
cheap, or Jester EV kind of cheap, or Spyder Mania on a VW
chassis kind of cheap. At least have some resemblence to an
actual car, no matter how tacky...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John Westlund wrote:
Crap. Crap, crap, crap, crap, CRAP, Craaa-aaap, crap.
Complete and utter crap.
Seriously, this is nothing but a glorified golf cart,
exactly what won't sell. I can understand their need to go
cheap, but if one must go cheap, go Bradley GTE kind of
cheap, or Jester EV kind of cheap, or Spyder Mania on a VW
chassis kind of cheap. At least have some resemblence to an
actual car, no matter how tacky...
Ah, John, its a moke. It is supposed to look like that. That is what all
mokes look like more or less. That one is actually a bit more car like
than most. See: http://mokeclub.org/moz5/ for more mokes.
FWIW, it must be a British affliction, because I suspect most Americans,
including myself, see them more or less as you do. At best silly.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
'95 Solectria Force
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 26 Mar 2005 at 17:40, John Westlund wrote:
> Crap. Crap, crap, crap, crap, CRAP, Craaa-aaap, crap.
> Complete and utter crap.
Aw, I thought it was kinda cute. It's certainly no worse than that Japanese
barely-bigger-than-a-Powerwheels EV.
> Seriously, this is nothing but a glorified golf cart ...
I can't find any specs on their website for top speed or the like, but I
don't see any reason to assume that. It might be a perfectly capable car
for use on the open highway, provided you stay out of the way of Hummers.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So all you EV BCers out there. I want to insure my EV with ICBC, so I can
do some road tests. The problem is, it is not really in the best condition
for them to inspect (e.g. no interior other than a seat and a steering
wheel). Since it is already registered, I just want to go get insurance,
and then at a later date (when everything is perfect), I will go and get its
designation changed to electric vehicle.
Any recommendations?
thanks
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart writes:
>
> With a boost converter based controller, you have a lower-voltage
> battery pack and boost the voltage to the motor. At minimum throttle, it
> is essentially straight-thru. As you increase the throttle, it boosts
> the voltage to increase motor speed.
Boosting motor voltage by drawing more current from the pack, right?
> Why might this be desirable? From the battery's perspective, it lets you
> use fewer higher-capacity batteries, wich are generally cheaper,
> longer-lived, and more reliable than many small-capacity batteries. For
> example, 6v instead of 8v or 12v batteries.
So wouldn't you then run into the problem of these batteries (assuming
you're taking about golf cart batteries) not handling high currents very
well?
Ralph
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Lee, John el al
Comments inserted
--- Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >> Should I be thinking about more serious stuff to do with a
> >> Wimshurst than an "EV hood ornament" (Ladder)?
>
> The Wimhurst machine is a high voltage, low current DC
> "static" electric generator. Typically, it consists of
> two glass disks with tinfoil segments on them, turned
> in opposite directions with a crank. Brushes pick up
> the charge developed.
Yah. got that. Plastic rather than glass, but otherwise... And spun
by wheel/hub motor rotaton rather than crank, but yeah...
> The Jacobs ladder is two almost-parallel vertical bars, wider at the
> top than the bottom. You connect it to a source of medium-voltage
> medium-current AC. An arc starts at the bottom, and rises (due to
> heat) to the top.
Yeah, got that... Didn't realize it was heat that did the lifting!
> You couldn't power a Jacob's ladder with a Wimhurst machine because
> it a) is DC instead of AC, b) doesn't generate enough current, and c)
> the voltage is too high.
OK. Thanks. Thought ev'ers were expert at converting DC to AC? And
that DC/DC's reduce voltages... but current I guess is the
make-or-break here? That's where I thought the caps might make up the
diff, but as you must know... I'm newbie in much of this <smile>
> There are lots more efficient high voltage genearators than the
> 200-year-old Wimhurst design.
I figured the energy (downhills - gravity - or braking inertia) was a
freebie anyway, so didn't care about efficiency? All just seemed so
low tech/cheap/easy to do...
> > now how cool would that be, put on the brakes and a arc starts
> > climbing the HO on the hood of your car till it come to a stop.
Yah, that sorta thing John. Snap Crackle and Pop.. Ozone! <grin>
> Very unique! Though a Jacobs ladder usually runs on perhaps 5kv at
> 50ma = 250 watts; not much braking energy there.
Hmmm... for a 200lb vehicle (including passenger) which runs on a
motor rated less than 750w continuous? Much of what I have read about
regen has been neg's about how hard it is to handle... maybe 250w is
gentle and easier to deal with? At least, you have answered (I think)
my question that yes, there would be a (albeit small) braking effect
with Wimshurst engaged...
> >> Any way to stuff this charge into my 24-36v batt pack?
> There are ways, but there's not enough energy to bother.
OK. Thanks.
> >> And, could the jars/caps serve somehow as a
> >> one-shot theft deterence device somehow?
> >> (Think Cap'n Nemo's Nautilus-light here)
>
> When I bought my ComutaVan, I didn't get the keys to
> lock the doors. So I put a "Danger -- High Voltage"
> sign on it. That was a better theft deterrent than
> the locks! I'd see people read the sign, then give it
> a *very* wide berth!
Hehe... OK. Just that I have inadvertently shorted out a cap on a
pcboard running on a 1.5v AAA batt (pcb designed as the flash unit in a
camera.) Not painful exactly, but definitely surprising!
Tks Lee. Sorry that Wimshurst stuff was wasted bandwidth. I'll go
back to my sticky rear band brake now.
Cheers
Lock
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
--- End Message ---
