EV Digest 4268
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: EV transport
by "Charles Whalen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: FYI: Premade battery pack cables
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Sparrow
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Alternate motor config for 300zx
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: Compressed air for regen
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: Recent Sparrow on Ebay
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Recent Sparrow on Ebay
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Recent Sparrow on Ebay
by Gordon Niessen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Using a Cheap DMM to measure charge current
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Using a Cheap DMM to measure charge current
by Seth Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) recipe for an ebike
by "a.k. howard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Looking for an odd EV part
by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Looking for an odd EV part
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) NEVRA, comments on new race organization
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Compressed air for regen
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: NEVRA, comments on new race organization
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks Marc and thanks to all the others who have given me good suggestions
both on and off list, a few of which have come to me by email, I think
probably from some of the people on the RAV4 EV list. Yes, but another list
to subscribe to, yet I cannot even keep up with this (excellent) list! I
really do have to get on that RAV4 EV list, however, now that I am
getting one.
Charles Whalen
Marc Geller wrote:
Charles,
I've posted your request to the RAV4 EV list ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
You'll want to subscribe if you haven't already.
Marc
On Apr 8, 2005, at 6:35 PM, Charles Whalen wrote:
I bought a RAV4-EV today from an owner in northern California who was
selling it. Can anyone recommend a good, reliable vehicle transport
company
which would be able to transport my RAV4-EV from northern California to
South Florida?
Thanks,
Charles Whalen
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
All depends on orientation, which depends on the car.
Some of mine are 4", some are 12". Perhaps I'm coming
into some other thread on the late side...
Also, you'll open up a real can o' worms with the
"yes, absolutely solder your lugs and crimp" vs. the
"crimp only. You need flexibility around the lug.
You're asking for brittleness/breakage with solder
too".
(;-p
--- Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Are your posts 8" or 12" apart? 1 and 2/0 gauge
> cables available with
> the terminals... soldered on?
>
>
http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/products/pdfs/7epm304.pdf
>
>
> Might be an option for someone who doesn't feel like
> making all their
> interconnects or is in a hurry.
>
> Is having the terminals soldered preferable to
> having them crimped on?
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'd drop a line to Ebay and see if it was legit. However there is a scam
where the seller works with someone else. They keep bidding up the item
against anyone, then after they "win" they "back out". Then the seller
contacts the next highest guy. Guaranteed way to get the best price for
an item.
This sparrow sale seemed a bit odd anyway. The owner didn't know his car
could only get 20-30 miles instead of 60? Bidders with low to no
feedback, and a seller with the same? And the sale price of 10k? Odd
since most seem to go for the 6k ranger (albeit with not "nearly new"
batteries. What does that mean anyway?)
The reason my scanners are up are because I have seen first hand cars
"for sale" on ebay that were simply rehashes of prior sales. Complete
with the pictures (I knew a guy who had one car in question and when I
called him he said "I'm not selling it"...)
I'd let it go unless you really want it and are firm on having a
reputable escrow service. Get it all in writing. Better yet in person.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I just got the gas tank, lines and assorted heat and stone guards out
from under the 300zx and, WOW, what a huge gapeing hole where the gas
tank was.
I am sure 2 - 8" ers next to each other along with a box like otmar has
only layed on it's side would fit.
then all batteries up front and behind the seat.
I know we have discussed doing this in a pickup, but from the bottom,
this looks the same! Anyone considered/tried this in a sedan?
the zilla would then be in the cabin directly above the motors.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Oh, you mean like this:
http://edition.cnn.com/2005/TECH/03/30/spark.air.car/
-MT
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> The high bidder was evsurplus. So does anyone know
> if evsurplus completed the purchase and therefore I should
> report this second chance offer to Ebay as a scam or do I have a
> real second chance which I will take if I can verify that it is
> on the up and up.
Well, according to
http://feedback.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=evs
urplus&item=4538983565&iid=4538983565&frompage=222
the buyer not only completed the transaction but got a good buddy response
from the seller:
"Payment received instantly for purchase of vehicle. Excellent Ebayer
A+++++"
Is it coincidence that the Seller and Buyer
Seller: ik4567 (Sep 09,03 to date), Piedmont, Ca.
Buyer: evsurplus (Jul 06,03 to date), Piedmont ?
Interesting, in the past 2 years, EVSURPLUS has only SOLD items on ebay 9
times and BOUGHT only 9 times:
http://feedback.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=evs
urplus&item=4538983565&iid=4538983565&frompage=222
Not too much activity for ANY Ebayer, let alone a surplusser...
-Myles
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
David wrote:
> I recently bid on a Sparrow on EBay ( 4538983565 ) but was out bid.
> I've just gotten a second chance offer to buy this Sparrow,
> but the offer doesn't seem to come from the original
> seller.
Email the person who is selling it and ask for some specific pictures
of it to see if they really have it. Like some close ups of the
motor, etc.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Email the person who is selling it and ask for some specific pictures
of it to see if they really have it. Like some close ups of the
motor, etc.
Ask for a picture of him sitting in it with the Sunday paper in his hand. :-)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a cheap $20 DMM I want to use to measure the charge current
**roughly** from the PFC-30 charger. This is so I can leave the meter in the
car so I can set the charge current when I am "borrowing" 110V power from
shopping malls and friend's places.
However when I connect the cheap meter to the 50A-50mV shunt, the meter
scrambles all over the place. I was told that this is because the meter is
an averaging meter and the PFC has a hi-frequency AC component. Of course
the Fluke meter reads OK.
Can I connect a capacitor between the lines which would smooth out the
current? What would be an appropriate value? I am scared to hook up the
scope as the shunt is on the wrong side of 370 volts, and I do not want to
blow the scope to bits...
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You could use a clip-on ammeter on either the AC or DC side (assuming
you care more about blowing the breaker than anything else.) Or a
current transformer on the AC side running to a DMM, I think. Or a
current transformer to a diode bridge. Or a current transducer.
You could sample a Allegro isolated current transducer and wire it in,
it has a 0-5V signal, it would need 5V power. A CSA750,752 or 754
series should do. Or they are under $10 at digikey. Isolation is nice.
Or a LEM current transducer. More accurate than the CSA series, but
more costly.
Or an AC panel meter on the input installed in the car.
I am a big fan of isolation when possible, especially at those voltages.
Again, all this is assuming you want to know about blowing breakers.
eBay often has shunts and meters, too. All the shunts I have ever
gotten were Canadian, too. No customs then?
Seth
On Apr 10, 2005, at 6:19 PM, Don Cameron wrote:
I have a cheap $20 DMM I want to use to measure the charge current
**roughly** from the PFC-30 charger. This is so I can leave the meter
in the
car so I can set the charge current when I am "borrowing" 110V power
from
shopping malls and friend's places.
However when I connect the cheap meter to the 50A-50mV shunt, the meter
scrambles all over the place. I was told that this is because the
meter is
an averaging meter and the PFC has a hi-frequency AC component. Of
course
the Fluke meter reads OK.
Can I connect a capacitor between the lines which would smooth out the
current? What would be an appropriate value? I am scared to hook up the
scope as the shunt is on the wrong side of 370 volts, and I do not
want to
blow the scope to bits...
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Greetings,
Here is the recipe for the ebike which is now in early stagest of
construction.
Powered by a 600 watt Crystalyte hub motor, spoked into a 20 inch wheel.
This is a 36 volt system. The controller is rated at 65 amps.
The throttle is the ebike thumb throttle with indicator lights.
Today we picked up a small bmx freestyle type bicycle from Walmart.
In a week I should have the 36 volt 12 amphour nimh battery and
appropriate charger.
I am fortunate to have a highly knowledgeable team working with me to build
this project.
Today we spread the steel forks so we could fit the wheel on the bike. We
needed about 1/4 inch more width than the specs required.
We put the tire on the hub wheel and inflated it. We accomplished this
task using a small air compressor powered from one of the electric cars. We
also did some work on the brakes.
We tested the wheel by hooking the controller up to a power supply and were
obviously happy when it turned.
I think the bike will be quite comfortable with a larger seat, and raising
the seat and handlebars.
I was able to pedal the bike, no one seemed to notice the large silver disc
in the front wheel.
We had an "elegant repast", as quoted by one of us, of pork and beans, and
homemade tuna salad.
I will be looking for the battery rack and bag this week.
This project is really starting to grow on me. In two weeks or so, I hope to
take the first ride on electric power, and have the EV grin.
After that much long range benchmark testing and data gathering and adding
more things to this project, and good food always.
Watt do you think? Regards, A.K. Howard, Las Vagas, NV. Enjoying life at 8
cents per kwh.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am consulting for a small EV manufacturer and they are looking to find
a 5k linear taper potentiometer with a 40 degree wipe. Curtis provided
one for the specific controller that Curtis is modding for this
manufacturer, but the unit provided is much too large for their needs.
The manufacturer is looking for something small, but not micro. The
potentiometer they are replacing has a body with a 5/8" diameter by 3/8"
thick with a shaft extending out approx 5/8" from the face of the pot.
They'd like for the new part to be this size or as close to it as
possible to fit into the existing hardware.
Any ideas of where to look first? I'll check digikey, but they're
looking for a source with reasonable pricing and I know digikey can be
pricey. Thanks for any assistance!
-Ken Trough
Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM - ktrough
FAX - 801-749-7807
message - 866-872-8901
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Are you referring to the "pot box" that wears out? Have you seen this
cool little "throttle pedal" on the bottom of this page?
http://cafeelectric.com/products/accessories.html
Have Curtis mod their box for that!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I would have thought Roy would have put out a press release on this one to
drum up business and support. Anyway, I would really like to hear comments
from the EV List community on this new EV racing organization. To check it
out go to http://www.cloudelectric.com/generic57.html
Roderick Wilde
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Cool, i have a couple of nice HP cylinders I have been trying to sell, lol.
Can you share how you propose to do the energy transfer in and out of the
air system?
David Chapman
Arizona Electropulsion / Fine-Junque
http://stores.ebay.com/theworldoffinejunque
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Narby" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 9:18 PM
Subject: Compressed air for regen
Hey all,
I've been batting around various regenerative braking ideas, and finally
came to the conclusion that a compressed air braking/motor system is
probably the most efficient.
I did a search and found someone patented this in 1998 - even went so far
as to include chemistry in the holding tanks to increase efficiency (salts
that go into solution to absorb heat energy from compression, then release
it when pressure drops, thus extending the range of the air charge).
Doesn't mean you couldn't make and use one for yourself, though.
The nice thing about a compressed air tank is that you can "recharge" it
practically infinitely, and it holds considerable energy. It also allows
simpler electric drive motors. The real question is energy density - do
compressed air tanks offer better total energy storage than batteries?
Anybody puzzled this one out?
I realize this is a bit OT, but compressed air regen could at least
supplement an EV (if it doesn't turn out to actually be superior - I know
there is an inventor in India(?) who is trying to get a compressed air car
to market.
Best,
Dave
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In regards to NEVRA helping with the advancement of electric vehicles.
Are the go-carts and Indy cars rolling test beds?
What is the long term vision with the "Aeroelectric" type vehicle?
What do you hope it will lead too?
What type of R&D breakthroughs are these vehicles likely to bring?
I'm not busting your chops or anything, I'm just thinking about the
types of vehicles people on this list drive and wondering how the
go-carts and what not can help advance road going, street legal EV's.
How can we take EV's to the next level, and how can we get EV's to
replace all the gas powered vehicles on the road today?
I think the wide spread use of AC could do it. Look at the current
state of the single DC motor vehicle. Now think about the unknown
potential that exists with low cost AC motors and inverters and also
high output inverters. Could change everything? What will it take to
get a Zilla type AC inverter built? (I'd do it myself if I could.)
--- End Message ---
