EV Digest 4374
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Where is the best buy on ADC motors?
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Renault leopard motor upgrade questions
by Tony McCormick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: Renault leopard motor upgrade questions
by "Sweeney, John P" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) 2005 NEDRA Power of DC Update
by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Renault leopard motor upgrade questions
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Cable crimping
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) WarP motor compatibility
by "Richard Rau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Cable crimping
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Ford Escort ZX2 Conversion?
by "Stu and Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: Where is the best buy on ADC motors?
by "Richard Rau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: WarP motor compatibility
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: Where is the best buy on ADC motors?
by "Richard Rau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: battery sales center
by "Richard Rau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Another Newbie Charging Question
by "J.R. Young" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Renault leopard motor upgrade questions
by Tony McCormick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Cable crimping
by Tony McCormick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) EVs needed for Energy Renewable Fair in Washington State June 4
by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) You need a welder (was: Cable crimping)
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Cable crimping
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Gear sprocket calculator.
by spidercats <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: [Oeva-list] Renault leopard motor upgrade questions
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
22) Re: Are these TDS Calculations RIGHT ???
by Marc Geller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Cable crimping
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Cable crimping
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: battery sales center
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Simple testing question, but major baby steps for me
by Seth Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Another Newbie Charging Question
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Renault leopard motor upgrade questions
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Chris Tromley stated: "What makes it workable for them is that they only
have to
deal with an east coast distributor (EV America) and a west coast
distributor (KTA). Other sellers get their product from these two
distributors. That leaves very little wiggle room on price."
We at EV Parts, Inc. also get our motors directly from Advanced DC. They
supply us with not only the onroad motors but also those for fork lifts and
other industrial applications.
Roderick
Roderick Wilde, President, EV Parts Inc.
Your Online EV Superstore
www.evparts.com
1-360-385-7082
Phone: 360-582-1270 Fax: 360-582-1272
PO Box 834, Carlsborg, WA 98324
108-B Business Park Loop, Sequim, WA 98382
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Tromley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 10:32 AM
Subject: RE: Where is the best buy on ADC motors?
Mark Farver wrote:
Ken at KTA Services is a pretty good guy to do business with. He is a
phone/catalog person who never really got going on the web thing. I'm
sure somebody (maybe a friends kid) setup the website before going to
college and now he has no one to update it.
You'll find a lot of the EV suppliers are not very web saavy. (Kinda a
shame since their customers tend to be highly technical, and therefore
internet oriented.) Ken is trying to sell the business and retire, but
since you won't be relying on him for long term warrenty support (the
ADC typically has a 1 year warrenty, and I've never heard of someone
needing/claiming it) that is not a big deal. And the business has been
for sale for over a year now.
I've dealt with Ken as well. Yes he's a phone kind of guy, but he will
make
you happy. I wish him well in selling his business. If I was still in
SoCal, I'd consider buying it myself.
I'm not sure about this, so someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe
the only reason ADC supplies EV-optimized motors at all is because the EV
community asked them to. There's not enough volume for them to care in a
business sense. What makes it workable for them is that they only have to
deal with an east coast distributor (EV America) and a west coast
distributor (KTA). Other sellers get their product from these two
distributors. That leaves very little wiggle room on price.
ADC makes the "standard" EV motor, but they aren't the only game in town.
Warfield Electric makes drop-in replacements for the popular ADC motors,
and
some believe Warfield makes a better product than ADC's. It's even
slightly
cheaper. You can get them from Netgain (http://www.go-ev.com/) and other
sources.
Chris
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have now pulled the old 48V prestolite (thanks for the help). As I
was told it came out with the fly wheel attached.
The flywheel still has the teeth for the starter and I was wondering if
it would be a good idea to lighten it up by removing them.
Or, even better, is the fly wheel is really needed at all in a EV, the
new ADC 8" is heavyer and I'm looking for places to lighten things up.
--
Tony
"Welcome to the dawn of a new error"
http://www.notebene.net/philosophy.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I would leave the flywheel & clutch in the car I remember mine was less
than fun to shift without the clutch. I guess you could prune the
starter ring off the flywheel and lighten it up. I would suggest a new
taperlock flywheel adapter. With a new motor with twice the HP I don't
think I would trust the stock adapter.
Pat
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Tony McCormick
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 4:42 PM
To: [email protected]; OEVA
Subject: Renault leopard motor upgrade questions
I have now pulled the old 48V prestolite (thanks for the help). As I
was told it came out with the fly wheel attached.
The flywheel still has the teeth for the starter and I was wondering if
it would be a good idea to lighten it up by removing them.
Or, even better, is the fly wheel is really needed at all in a EV, the
new ADC 8" is heavyer and I'm looking for places to lighten things up.
--
Tony
"Welcome to the dawn of a new error"
http://www.notebene.net/philosophy.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A lot of newsworthy stuff is happening for the NEDRA Power of DC June 11.
An NBC affiliate in Hagerstown plans to be at the race. The producer just
emailed yesterday saying he's looking forward to going.
Shawn Lawless will be bringing his newly rebuilt Orange Juice dragster which
is great news AND his 120-volt Nash Metropolitan. This is a really cool
conversion.
Shawn Waggoner of Suncoast Electric Vehicle Outfitters in Florida will be
one of our sponsors this year and will also be entering the race with their
new electric pocket bike. Suncoast will be giving away one of their kits.
Tom Erekson also emailed yesterday saying the BYU crew has made their final
travel arrangements to bring out their ultra-capacitor powered EV-1 to the
Power of DC.
Roy Nutter from West Virginia University will be brining their Formula one
LIghtning.
Darin Gilbert came up with the great idea of a swap meet so anyone going may
want to bring some of their old or unused EV parts to the race.
I did hear from Gary Benedick of TB Woods in Pennsylvannia which makes AC
invertors and they are planning to bring their Twike.
It will also be great to have Robert Salem and Darin Gilbert competing with
us again this year.
Tim Humphries has the idea of completing his son's electric jr dragster with
help at the race. Build it and race it in one day.
Early this week I received a big box of QuickCable tools that we will be
awarding the winners. Thanks QuickCable!!
Other sponsors that just signed this week include the Maryland Energy
Administration and the Metropolitan Baltimore Clean Cities Coalition. This
is our first government sponsors.
I'd also like to thank Otmar for Caf� Electric's sponsorship. And Ken Koch
from KTA Services, Rich Rudman from Manzanita Micro and Roderick Wilde from
EV Parts for their sponsorship. Dave Stensland of Megawatt Motorworks will
also be a sponsor this year and may come down from New York. Thanks guys for
coming through and helping out again this year.
Entertainment this year will be the rock group Wolfspider and the EVA/DC
Solar Slot Cars set up for the kids.
POWER OF DC COMPETITORS
1) Brigham Young University, Utah - GM EV-1
2) West Virginia University, West Virginia - Formula 1 Lightning
3) Shawn Lawless, Ohio - Orange Juice Dragster
4) Shawn Lawless, Ohio - Nash Metropolitan EV
5) Shawn Waggoner, Florida - 48-volt Pocket bike
6) Robert Salem and Dave Erb, Ohio - 240-volt VW Truck
7) Darin Gilbert, Michigan - 48-volt motorcycle
8) Tim and Cody Humphries, New York - electric jr dragster
9) Gary Benedick, Pennsylvannia - Twike
10) Chip Gribben, Maryland - Ford Escort
11) Christopher Zach, Maryland - Geo Prizm
12) Brian Murtha, Maryland - Rav-4
13) Charlie Garlow, Maryland - Chevy S-10
14) Valerie Myers, Maryland - Sparrow
15) Central Shenendoah High School, Virginia - 240-Z
16) Great Mills High School, Maryland - Toyota MR2
Hopeful entries
1) Net Gain, Ohio - Dragster
3) Top Sail High School, NC - Toyota Paseo
4) Morgantown High School, WV - Mitsubishi Eclipse
5) Miramar High School, Florida - Porsche 944
6) GM Fuel Cell Car, Wash DC
SPONSORS
1) QuickCable
2) KTA Services
3) Manzanita Micro
4) Virginia Solar Council
6) Caf� Electric
7) Battery Warehouse
8) EV Parts
9) Hugh's Woodworking
10) Suncoast Electric Vehicle Outfitters
11) Megawatt Motorworks
12) Maryland Energy Administration
13) Metropolitan Baltimore Clean Cities Coalition
Thanks everyone!!
Chip Gribben
NEDRA Power of DC
http://www.powerofdc.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Tony and All,
--- Tony McCormick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have now pulled the old 48V prestolite (thanks for
> the help). As I
> was told it came out with the fly wheel attached.
>
> The flywheel still has the teeth for the starter and
> I was wondering if
> it would be a good idea to lighten it up by removing
> them.
> Or, even better, is the fly wheel is really needed
> at all in a EV, the
> new ADC 8" is heavyer and I'm looking for places to
> lighten things up.
Why are you changing the motor? It's not really
worth it and the EV works very well just as it is
other than doing a better battery hold down system,
new batt charger. Save the original parts to restore
it to stock in the future.
These are classic EV's and will be worth more
money in the future if you keep them stock.
Unless there is a real problem in older EV's, best
is leave them as they are. It will cost you much less
and work great for yrs.
Usually with the Lectric Leopard, it goes slower,
less range with anything other than the stock system
unless you go for many thousands of dollars and still
may not be faster, more range!!
So think about what you are doing before
you sink a lot of unneeded cash into it. Instead just
enjoy an EV grin as it was meant to be, good, low cost
transport!
Is the 'improvement' really worth the
money, work, hassle?
Is it an improvement at all?
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
>
> --
> Tony
> "Welcome to the dawn of a new error"
> http://www.notebene.net/philosophy.html
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail Mobile
Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Don't use a hammer crimper. They really do not make a good crimp.
Here is a link to my $21 2-0 crimpers:
http://www.haritech.com/crimp.htm
Why buy a hammer crimper when you can make a hex crimper for $21?
Be sure to buy the 4 foot bolt cutters. The short ones just don't have the
leverage you need. Try to find old, solid handle, bolt cutters. You don't
care about how trashed the jaws are, so you can generally get them pretty
cheap.
I have also made some good crimps in very tight places with my CP-214
pneumatic rivet squeezer, but that is another story. :^)
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thought the list would might be interested �
Most of you know that WarP motors are designed to serve the needs of the
EV�er, and the WarP 8 and WarP 9 are essentially the same in size and
mounting as the ADC 8� & 9� motors.
I chose to go with a WarP 9 in my current Honda conversion. Before placing
my order I contacted the WarP folks to check on a detail that is not
mentioned in print �..
particularly, I needed to confirm that the Zilla Speed Sensor (sold as an
accessory to the Zilla controllers made by Caf� Electric) would fit simply
to the CE end bell of their motor(s).
Well, the sensor fit turned out to be a question that needed answering.
Now, thanks to a meeting between Otmar and the contact from NetGain, we have
compatibility. Actually, we owe special thanks to George of NetGain for his
willingness to go to their production staff and ask for this change!
Beginning with the next batch of motors, the fit should be a sweet one.
Also of note- NetGain will soon offer a new motor called ImPulse 9. It�s
a short 9" that is a bolt-in replacement for the WarP 8/ADC 8 motors. This
motor uses the superior brushes and rigging from the WarP 9 in an 8" length
(the diameter is 9.25"). It has the same bolt pattern and pilot as the 8"
motors so it is an easy swap/upgrade. The performance won't be as
dramatically different as a WarP 9", BUT the ImPulse 9" also has adjustable
brush timing!
May the EMF be with you!
Richard Rau
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Cool, gonna check out the Tanque Verde flea market this weekend...
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
> Don't use a hammer crimper. They really do not make a good crimp.
>
> Here is a link to my $21 2-0 crimpers:
>
> http://www.haritech.com/crimp.htm
>
> Why buy a hammer crimper when you can make a hex crimper for $21?
>
> Be sure to buy the 4 foot bolt cutters. The short ones just don't have the
> leverage you need. Try to find old, solid handle, bolt cutters. You don't
> care about how trashed the jaws are, so you can generally get them pretty
> cheap.
>
> I have also made some good crimps in very tight places with my CP-214
> pneumatic rivet squeezer, but that is another story. :^)
> _ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
> \'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> =(___)=
> U
> Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Is the Ford Escort ZX2 a good candidate for an EV conversion?
Has one been done?
I have a 2001 ZX2 and I was wondering.
The hatchback area would be a nice battery location for a 2 passenger
conversion.
Incidentally, the ZX2 is very quick, and it gets about 28 mpg on a 110 hp
OHV engine.
Boyntonstu
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Could be because dual shaft WarPs are standard production for the NetGain
folks . They apparently sell more doubles than singles.
Economy of scale I suppose.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 3:30 PM
To: EV Discussion List
Subject: Re: Where is the best buy on ADC motors?
<<< Find a dealer near you and get a WarP motor..
http://www.go-ev.com/dealers-usa.html
Info:
http://www.go-ev.com/motors.html
http://www.go-ev.com/motors-warp.html >>>
Odd note: why are their dual shaft motors *cheaper* than single shaft
versions?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Richard Rau wrote:
> Also of note- NetGain will soon offer a new motor called ImPulse 9.
I think it's out now?
http://www.cloudelectric.com/item.jhtml?&PRID=1520508
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
And don't forget about EV Source. In the transactions I've done
with them, they have always been super helpful and pleasant to work with.
Ryan Bohm is the main guy.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 3:20 PM
To: EV Discussion List
Subject: Re: Where is the best buy on ADC motors?
<<< EVparts.com has a little better website, but it is starting to get out
of date. There have been some mutterings that support/inventory for
conversions is falling as they concentrate on the more lucrative scootor
and golf cart market..
ElectricAuto.com (Electro Automotive) is another option, last I checked
their website too was out of date, but they have been in business for
awhile and will probably get you anything you need if you call.
Those are the major vendors... there are a few "second generation" EV
shops starting up, but getting a sales agreement with ADC is so hard I
suspect most of the other guys are reselling.
Mark Farver >>>
Don't forget the Cloud brothers at cloudelectric.com - later on the web than
WildeEvolutions/EVParts, but sometimes that means you get to see the other
guys' mistakes and avoid them.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It depends on how you ask them. I was a purchasing manager for 10 years
and "ve have vays".
Why in the world would he cut himself out of making $$$ ????
That guy wasn't too bright, lol
most people in business do not tell there sources, that is just dumb:-)
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of darren
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 3:57 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: battery sales center
I called my local Interstate "all battery center" and asked
> where he got his batteries from. He gave me the name of a different
> Interstate battery store that turned out to be the area wholesaler for
> all of South Texas.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I equalized my new 132v pack (22 x 6v Exide 3600's) to 165v. Charged about 8
hours at 5 amps, and finally reached 165.5 per the Emeter.
The next day, I took the truck for my first significant drive... about 5 miles.
When I got back, I let the pack rest a while, and then hooked up the charge
(PFC-20). The only problem was that the pack voltage was already above the
acceptance voltage (138.6), so it didn't charge much. Later that evening, I
took the truck on another short trip (about 8 miles), and after letting the
pack rest a bit, hooked up the charger again. This time the pack was at about
137.5 volts, so the charger did start a normal charge, but after about a minute
hit the acceptance voltage and started tapering the amps down. I have the
timeout set for an hour and a half. After the hour and a half past, the
voltage was around 140... but the eMeter didn't reset because I'd still not put
as much in as I had taken out.
At this point I reset the EMeter since I believed the pack to have a full
charge and drove another 8 mile trip. Same scenario as above... pack voltage
was at about 137.5 when I started to charge... and almost immediately it hit
139 and the PFC-20 timer kicked in to start tapering amps. After the hour and
a half past, again the voltage was around 140 and the eMeter failed to reset
again.
My concern is that it seems like I'm taking a lot more OUT of the batteries
than I'm putting back in. But there doesn't seem to be any way around it
without fudging the acceptance voltage and letting the PFC-20 run the pack up
to maybe 142 or so then kick off the timeout.
Anybody have any suggestions? I thought this was the best way to break the
pack in, but now I'm not sure. Perhaps I should have taken several short trips
until the pack was down to 60%, and then recharged...
Glenn
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks Jerry,
Existing motor burned up and I have long, long ago taken this
Leopard far away from stock. The only things left that are stock are
the rear brakes and running gear, the transmission and the basic body.
The front seats are soon to be replaced with something more comfortable,
the body has been tweaked, the dash is aluminum (ala racing style) and
all the guages replaced with all electronic stuff, the old contactor
controller and 48 volt arrangement and Lester transformer style charger
was gone within a few months after I bought it..(years ago). It's 102V,
PFC20, Curtis 1231, SurePower DC/DC, Dakota Digital Speedo, E-Meter,
stereo... you get the picture, if not, here's the link to it.... :-)
www.notebene.net/ev/lektron.html
Tony
jerry dycus wrote:
Hi Tony and All,
Why are you changing the motor? It's not really
worth it and the EV works very well just as it is
other than doing a better battery hold down system,
new batt charger. Save the original parts to restore
it to stock in the future.
<snip>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
$21 if you have the the rest of the tools you used to make the tools....
like a welder, fer instance...
just sayin....
Tony
"Welcome to the dawn of a new error"
http://www.notebene.net/philosophy.html
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Don't use a hammer crimper. They really do not make a good crimp.
Here is a link to my $21 2-0 crimpers:
http://www.haritech.com/crimp.htm
Why buy a hammer crimper when you can make a hex crimper for $21?
Be sure to buy the 4 foot bolt cutters. The short ones just don't
have the leverage you need. Try to find old, solid handle, bolt
cutters. You don't care about how trashed the jaws are, so you can
generally get them pretty cheap.
I have also made some good crimps in very tight places with my
CP-214 pneumatic rivet squeezer, but that is another story. :^)
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
We are a community based non-profit that, among other things, sponsors
an annual Renewable Energy Fair in Shoreline, Washington which is
immediately north of Seattle.
Dave Cloud (Cloud Electric Vehicles) will be an exhibitor again this
year (our 2nd annual event) as he did last year.
Other alternative fuel vehicles will also be present, including hybrids,
biodiesel, CNG and of course, electric vehicles.
We'd love to see one of those Electric Dragsters!!!
My Question:
Do you have any racers from this area that might be interested in
showing their Electric Drag Racer at this event?
Our event is Saturday, June 4 from 10 AM - 4 PM.
I realize there is little time before this year's event, so I'd like to
also suggest we keep in touch in regards to next year's event.
Please check out our list of exhibitors and Supporters on our website:
www.shorelinesolar.org
If you know of anyone who might be interested THIS YEAR, please have
them contact me as soon as possible.
Thank you very much,
Larry Owens
Shoreline Solar Project
206-650-4596
www.ShorelineSolar.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 09:11 PM 5/20/2005, you wrote:
$21 if you have the the rest of the tools you used to make the tools....
like a welder, fer instance...
just sayin....
If you are doing a conversion, you really need to have access to a
MIG welder (or at least a flux-core welder).
It is very difficult to do a conversion without a welder. Folks do
it, but they typically pay more than the price of a welder to have the
welding done for them.
MIG welding is ridiculously simple to do. Can you use a hot glue
gun without burning yourself? If so, you can MIG weld. Folks act like
welding is some mystical black art, and only the "anointed ones" that have
the elusive "welding genes" are allowed to operate the sacred welding
equipment.
I have taught 7th grade girls to MIG weld in less than an hour.
You can get set up to MIG weld for a few hundred dollars.
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Whitout tools there is another solution:
buy the hammer crimper BUT use it under a press.
You should find one to use just about 10mn (all cable ready to crimp) for
free at any big mechanics shop around.
i mix both solution because i have tolls and i made my press crimper,
crimping is very effective under 30 000kg force :^)
Philippe
Et si le pot d'�chappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les v�hicules �lectriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony McCormick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 5:11 AM
Subject: Re: Cable crimping
> $21 if you have the the rest of the tools you used to make the tools....
> like a welder, fer instance...
> just sayin....
>
> Tony
> "Welcome to the dawn of a new error"
> http://www.notebene.net/philosophy.html
>
>
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > Don't use a hammer crimper. They really do not make a good crimp.
> >
> > Here is a link to my $21 2-0 crimpers:
> >
> > http://www.haritech.com/crimp.htm
> >
> > Why buy a hammer crimper when you can make a hex crimper for $21?
> >
> > Be sure to buy the 4 foot bolt cutters. The short ones just don't
> > have the leverage you need. Try to find old, solid handle, bolt
> > cutters. You don't care about how trashed the jaws are, so you can
> > generally get them pretty cheap.
> >
> > I have also made some good crimps in very tight places with my
> > CP-214 pneumatic rivet squeezer, but that is another story. :^)
> > _ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
> > \'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > =(___)=
> > U
> > Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
> >
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.arachnoid.com/bike/index.html
It's for bicycles but works with reduction gears as well.
Matt G
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How about couple the motor directly to the transmission, eliminating the
flywheel and clutch, clutch pedal etc? This reduces the number of components,
lighter and simpler. Also, since electric motors are not always designed for
thrust loads eliminating the clutch may be better for motor longevity.
Rick Barnes
-------------- Original message --------------
> I have now pulled the old 48V prestolite (thanks for the help). As I
> was told it came out with the fly wheel attached.
>
> The flywheel still has the teeth for the starter and I was wondering if
> it would be a good idea to lighten it up by removing them.
> Or, even better, is the fly wheel is really needed at all in a EV, the
> new ADC 8" is heavyer and I'm looking for places to lighten things up.
>
> --
> Tony
> "Welcome to the dawn of a new error"
> http://www.notebene.net/philosophy.html
>
> _______________________________________________
> Oeva-list mailing list
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://www.rdrop.com/mailman/listinfo/oeva-list
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Let's remember, the point is reducing gasoline usage, not simply a
pure, mathematical reduction in "energy" usage. The grid has lot
available night time American electricity, and it will replace imported
gasoline miles driven.
While we should always be more honest than the car companies have ever
been about gasoline consumption, we shouldn't get trapped in
calculations.
On May 18, 2005, at 12:00 PM, Roger Stockton wrote:
Steven Lough [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
"On a 150-mile run, this vehicle achieved nearly 102 MPG
on the gasoline used, but also utilized 10 kilowatt-hours
of electricity required to charge the special lithium-ion
batteries. When computing the total energy used, including
the grid power, the net effective mileage was only 67 MPG,
which is still highly commendable."
YOU NUMBER CRUNCHERS OUT THERE... ARE THOSE CALCULATIONS CORRECT ?
WOULD 10 KWH BE THE SAME AS X GALONS OF GAS ??? AND LOWER THE
MPG FROM 102 TO 67 FOR A 150 MILE TRIP ???
From the EPA website <http://www.epa.gov/orcdizux/rfgecon.htm>
the energy content of a US gallon of gasoline is 113,000-117,000 BTU
during the summer.
According to this handy-dandy energy units convertor:
<http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/ncrick/converters/energy.html>
this equates to 33.117-34.289kWh/gallon.
So, 10kWh of electricity is equivalent to 0.29-0.30 gallons of
gasoline.
If the EnergyCS Prius achieved 102mpg on a 150mi run, this suggests it
consumed 1.47 gallons of gasoline. So, including the 0.29-0.30 gallon
gasoline equivalent of the 10kWh of electricity consumed results in
1.77
gallons of gas for 150mi travelled or 84.7mpg.
I would therefore conclude that either the TdS math is incorrect or it
is not considering the gasoline equivalent of the electrical energy
consumed by the vehicle, but rather the gasoline equivalent of the
energy used to produce the electrical energy consumed.
For 67mpg over a 150mi trip, the TdS must figure on the equivalent of
2.239 gallons of gas, which means they are equating the 10kWh of
electricity to about 0.769 gallons of gas: over 2x its actual energy
equivalent. This seems suspiciously like the TdS is figuring on a
generation efficiency in the high 30's of % and
transmission/distribution efficiency in the low 90's of %, for an
overall efficiency of about 39%.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I think my press might be too much.... what's the
conversion for 100,000 lbs....
Gadget
ps I might just toss the triumph conversion. the tow
yard has another car I can get for less than 200
bucks.. I'll check it out tomorrow.
Gadget
--- Philippe Borges <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> Whitout tools there is another solution:
> buy the hammer crimper BUT use it under a press.
> You should find one to use just about 10mn (all
> cable ready to crimp) for
> free at any big mechanics shop around.
>
> i mix both solution because i have tolls and i made
> my press crimper,
> crimping is very effective under 30 000kg force :^)
>
> Philippe
>
> Et si le pot d'�chappement sortait au centre du
> volant ?
> quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
> http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
> Forum de discussion sur les v�hicules �lectriques
> http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tony McCormick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 5:11 AM
> Subject: Re: Cable crimping
>
>
> > $21 if you have the the rest of the tools you used
> to make the tools....
> > like a welder, fer instance...
> > just sayin....
> >
> > Tony
> > "Welcome to the dawn of a new error"
> > http://www.notebene.net/philosophy.html
> >
> >
> >
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >
> > > Don't use a hammer crimper. They really do not
> make a good crimp.
> > >
> > > Here is a link to my $21 2-0 crimpers:
> > >
> > > http://www.haritech.com/crimp.htm
> > >
> > > Why buy a hammer crimper when you can make a
> hex crimper for $21?
> > >
> > > Be sure to buy the 4 foot bolt cutters. The
> short ones just don't
> > > have the leverage you need. Try to find old,
> solid handle, bolt
> > > cutters. You don't care about how trashed the
> jaws are, so you can
> > > generally get them pretty cheap.
> > >
> > > I have also made some good crimps in very
> tight places with my
> > > CP-214 pneumatic rivet squeezer, but that is
> another story. :^)
> > > _ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
> > > \'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > =(___)=
> > > U
> > > Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ouch....45 000kg... you win ;^)
my 30mn work pretty crimper
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/images/crimper.jpg
Philippe
Et si le pot d'�chappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les v�hicules �lectriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reverend Gadget" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 11:59 AM
Subject: Re: Cable crimping
> I think my press might be too much.... what's the
> conversion for 100,000 lbs....
>
> Gadget
>
> ps I might just toss the triumph conversion. the tow
> yard has another car I can get for less than 200
> bucks.. I'll check it out tomorrow.
>
> Gadget
>
>
> --- Philippe Borges <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> > Whitout tools there is another solution:
> > buy the hammer crimper BUT use it under a press.
> > You should find one to use just about 10mn (all
> > cable ready to crimp) for
> > free at any big mechanics shop around.
> >
> > i mix both solution because i have tolls and i made
> > my press crimper,
> > crimping is very effective under 30 000kg force :^)
> >
> > Philippe
> >
> > Et si le pot d'�chappement sortait au centre du
> > volant ?
> > quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
> > http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
> > Forum de discussion sur les v�hicules �lectriques
> > http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Tony McCormick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 5:11 AM
> > Subject: Re: Cable crimping
> >
> >
> > > $21 if you have the the rest of the tools you used
> > to make the tools....
> > > like a welder, fer instance...
> > > just sayin....
> > >
> > > Tony
> > > "Welcome to the dawn of a new error"
> > > http://www.notebene.net/philosophy.html
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > >
> > > > Don't use a hammer crimper. They really do not
> > make a good crimp.
> > > >
> > > > Here is a link to my $21 2-0 crimpers:
> > > >
> > > > http://www.haritech.com/crimp.htm
> > > >
> > > > Why buy a hammer crimper when you can make a
> > hex crimper for $21?
> > > >
> > > > Be sure to buy the 4 foot bolt cutters. The
> > short ones just don't
> > > > have the leverage you need. Try to find old,
> > solid handle, bolt
> > > > cutters. You don't care about how trashed the
> > jaws are, so you can
> > > > generally get them pretty cheap.
> > > >
> > > > I have also made some good crimps in very
> > tight places with my
> > > > CP-214 pneumatic rivet squeezer, but that is
> > another story. :^)
> > > > _ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
> > > > \'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > =(___)=
> > > > U
> > > > Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
> visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
another is , something when there just isn't enough money in something ,
your better off just passing it on to the next guy,
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 6:16 PM
Subject: Re: battery sales center
darren wrote:
Why in the world would he cut himself out of making $$$ ????
The situation could have been like this:
Let's say just for example that I worked there. Just a minimum wage
employee. If you came in and asked where we got the batteries from, I
would have told you...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I believe Joe Smalley has suggested (in the past) using a steel
coathanger as a load for a quick battery load test. (Correct me if I
am wrong, Joe!) I suspect that using one or two in series would limit
the inrush current. And once up to speed, it shouldn't get too hot, I
bet. And I THINK that 24V is low enough that a 9" ADC will not run
away. But check on that one.
Joe, Madman, Lee or others could comment on this.
Seth
On May 20, 2005, at 3:06 PM, Dave Cover wrote:
I need to bench test a motor with my new pack but I'm not sure the
best way to do it. I have a 9"
ADC that hasn't been run in a long time and I want to hook it up to a
new mini pack I've put
together. The pack is made up of 20 1.2 volt NiCad cells that have
been charged to a pack voltage
of 27 volts. I'm guessing this is to high to connect directly to the
motor so I'm looking for a
good way to safely run the motor off the pack. I'd like to run the
motor so I know it's in
reasonable shape before I install it and I'd also like to use the
motor to exercise the pack so I
can charge it again.
How do I safely limit the juice flowing to the motor? (Just voltage or
current also?)
How low can I safely discharge the pack? (NiCads)
I'd prefer not to use long extension cords in buckets of water but...
Thanks
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
J.R. Young wrote:
> My concern is that it seems like I'm taking a lot more OUT of the batteries
> than I'm putting back in... Anybody have any suggestions?
What is the E-meter's CEF (Charge Efficiency Factor) set for? The
default is 90%, which means the E-meter expects you to put in an extra
10% to reach "full". Suppose it reads -100ah after a drive; if you
charge 10 hours at 10 amps = 100ah, the meter only counts 90% of this,
or 90ah; thus the E-meter still indicates -10ah. You have to put in
111ah to have the meter reach 100% and start blinking the "fully
charged" indicator.
With AGMs or gels, or with new flooded batteries, the actual CEF is
higher; so the E-meter will lead you to overcharge them unless you set
the CEF lower, or overcharge anyway so the E-meter will recalculate CEF
by itself. If you reset the E-meter manually, or don't change the CEF
manually to what it really is, the E-meter will never recalculate CEF
and the problem will continue.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Tony McCormick wrote:
> The flywheel still has the teeth for the starter and I was wondering
> if it would be a good idea to lighten it up by removing them.
On my Lectric Leopard, I had the flywheel turned down to remove the ring
gear and about 1/2" around the outside. Basically, it was turned down
almost to the ring of bolts that mount the pressure plate.
> Or, even better, is the fly wheel is really needed at all in a EV,
> the new ADC 8" is heavyer and I'm looking for places to lighten
> things up.
Mine shifts adequately without using the clutch, so it would be
possible. But, I didn't trust the French engineers -- I was afraid of
having synchronizer troubles and needing a new tranaxle for a
25-year-old car that's no longer imported. So, I kept the clutch even
though I rarely use it.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
