EV Digest 4497
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Plasma Boy Racing website up and running
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Current limit!!!! Re: Advancing ETEK motors
by reb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: Plasma Boy Racing website up and running
by "Matthew D. Graham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Fwd: I can stop now
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Please Help Newbie - ev bike transmission
by BR Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: Please Help Newbie - ev bike transmission
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) ICCU Ultracap Breakthrough. Will this help with SCR controller efficiency?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Dismal Range. Was: Schmidt glider(lightweight gliders and improving EV
aero efficiency)
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Plastic welder
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) A ONE wheel front drive 2F1R auto.
by "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Transmission idea's
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Small AC motor question
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Photovoltaic Paint
by James Sullivan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) RE: Engine Generator Question
by "Grannes, Dean" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Plastic welder
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Hybrid Engine-LPG+Diesel
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
17) Re: Hybrid Engine-LPG+Diesel
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: ICCU Ultracap Breakthrough. Will this help with SCR controller
efficiency?
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: DC/DC
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Sorry plain text prob. Single front wheel drive 2F1R car.
by "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Hybrid Engine-LPG+Diesel
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Contactor info plus blatant plug
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Dismal Range. Was: Schmidt glider(lightweight gliders and improving EV
aero efficiency)
by "John Westlund" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) RE: A Trihawk Hybrid idea. RE: Jerry
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: Plastic welder
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Plasma Boy Racing website up and running
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Plasma Boy Racing website up and running
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Small AC motor question
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) RE: A Trihawk Hybrid idea. RE: Jerry
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Stupid questions
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- Begin Message ---
Hell to All,
Just a quick note to let everyone know that the Plasma Boy racing website is
back up at
<plasmaboyracing.com>
I've had 'lots' of help from Mark Farver and Aleric (forgot his last name) of
'Austin EV'
who are the guys behind the page and who are painfully (for them) teaching me
stuff, plus
I've had help from Ryan Fulcher and crew member Tim Brehm. I also want to thank
Chip
Gribben for his artwork on the Plasma Boy logo.
Though maybe 5% completed at this point, you can now check out photos and a few
videos
using the 'Media' button. There are too many videos to list that are currently
being
digitized from video tape (thanks Tim), that will be up soon. Tim and I worked
on stuff
this weekend, as he's got new computer hardware and software that makes
converting the
videos easy, plus, he's got a high speed access I still don't have. Most of the
photos
you'll find, were uploaded the s-l-o-w- way via my lousy phone line
dail-up...arggh!
That's changing soon, though, as I've finally found a way to get high speed
cable here
through a combination cable phone line and scream'n fast cable modem line
setup...all for
within $5 a month of what we were paying for two regular phone lines, one of
which was
solely used for the computer...unlimited long distance sweetened the deal, too.
Soooo,
after the 23rd, I'll be in the fast lane and will get years of EV stuff up to
the web
page, but in the meantime, there's at least some stuff to look at now.
One of the videos is 'very large' and will be reworked to be three separate
videos, so for
now it's not for dial-up folks. When it 'is' broken down to smaller files, I
hope many
will enjoy the absolute vintage footage of the 1984 SEVA Long Distance EV
Rally, featuring
a much younger beardless and almost skinny John Wayland, a younger Steve Lough
(SEVA
president), and of course, Blue Meanie before it was even named as such,
running at an
awesome 48 volts! A few other video clips Tim shot to the site yesterday, only
take about
4-5 minutes to load in with dial-up. One, is of Bob Rice's great job of
capturing a
churning, tire shredding burnoff at last year's Woodburn drags. With Tim's new
equipment,
he and I can finally finish up the May 14th '04 video of the Mustang vs White
Zombie
12.99 run, including the interview with the stunned 'stang driver and a few
racing fans
who were there.
Please be patient, as I'm pretty bad with the whole web page stuff right now,
but I
promise I'll get better. Some of the opening page 'buttons' don't lead to much
right now,
but that will change. The button 'Wayland's Words' for example, is one that
for now is
just has a running blog of sorts, but I have plans that will make it one of the
best
sections when it's done. The Media section is probably the best area for now,
but don't
forget to check out the Sponsors area, too, also an area that will be improved
on as I get
better at this.
Enjoy.
See Ya....John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
so why would the controller fail ?
(i have an etek which i was about to buy a alltrax
for)
reb
--- Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Oops, I thought you were asking about Jerry's ETEK
> failure, not Ken's
> controller failure, my mistake (red face)!
>
>
> On 7/11/05, Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > On 7/11/05, Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> > > > So my problem is I fried the altrax SPX 48v
> 400a controller runniing
> > > > ETEK in 5 miles hit 50 mph couple times
> cruised at 35-40 ambient
> > > > tempature 98 degrees do i go down to a 300 a
> controller?
> > >
> > > How heavy was the vehicle that experienced this
> failure?
> >
> > Jerry gave a description in another thread:
> > [..]
> > The situation was starting up a slight
> incline
> > driveway with a 4.3-1 drive ratio, 12" tires, 22"
> dia
> > driving a 1,000 lb EV.
> > The controller was a contator and a GC
> starting
> > resistor in series with 36vdc 3/4 charged T105
> batt
> > pack with 4 and 6gge wires so I doubt current was
> over
> > 350 amps though could be wrong.
> > [..]
> >
> > Personally I guess that the current was
> considerably more than this,
> > given that it looks like the commutator segments
> melted like a fuse
> > almost immediately. More like 1000A, which is
> certainly possible with
> > a contactor controller, and a rather heavy vehicle
> with a single ratio
> > transmission. Jerry does mention a resistor
> (unknown value), but I
> > think that the current must have been pretty high
> for this to happen -
> > just my opinion based on playing with Lynch
> motors.
> >
>
>
___________________________________________________________
How much free photo storage do you get? Store your holiday
snaps for FREE with Yahoo! Photos http://uk.photos.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wow! Great job from the Austin EV crew for the beginnings of a clean,
informative site! And Chip, you really outdid yourself with that image of
young Plasma Boy. Perfect!
For those of you who haven't checked it out yet, the picture gallery in the
media center shows a lot of great step-by-step processes, like the detailed
construction of a battery box, the Siamese 8, and the 13" motor for Purple
Phase.
John, we're looking forward to more pictures and videos!
Matt Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: John Wayland [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, July 11, 2005 11:33 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Plasma Boy Racing website up and running
Hell to All,
Just a quick note to let everyone know that the Plasma Boy racing website is
back up at
http://plasmaboyracing.com
<snip>
See Ya....John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Mark Hanson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> It can screech to a stop *much* faster than before during a panic stop and
> can lock up the
> wheels now. I did this a few years back (in the late 70's) on a willy's jeep
> went to the 10"
> brakes with similar results (from a larger Jeep Wagoneer).
> Mark
Did you measure the before and after stopping distances?
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All,
I posted this query sometime back but dont know if i got any
responses. Hence the repost.
I have some questions about the choice of rear sprocket for my dirt
bike project. The sprocket will be chain driven by a 36 V etek motor.
Doing some quick and dirty calculations, i came to the conclusion that
at the top rpm of the motor 3600, if i want reasonable top wheel
speeds of say 25-30 mph i need to use a teeth ratio of 1:12.
I have been unsuccesful in finding sprockets. The highest i have found
so far is 12:72 (front:rear). I have 18" wheels (24" outer dia of the tires).
The other issue is regarding freewheeling. I am not sure if my Curtis
1201 supports this. It looks like I may have to do it mechanically.
Are there freewheeling sprockets available for a this kind of bike?
I would like some ideas about how to achieve a top speed of 30mph (a
jackshaft for an intermediate step down?) using my current setup and
secondly on what would be a good way to do the freewheeling. Thanks in
advance
Regards,
B.R. Deshpande.
PS: I dont know how to reply to messages in the list. Would appreciate
email responses. Thx.
--
"The resistance to a new idea increases as the square of its importance."
-Bertrand Russell.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
For an outside diameter wheel of 24" to get a top speed of 28mph at
3600rpm, you will need an overall ratio of 9:1
A 12:1 will get you approx 22mph at 3600rpm.
There are a number of gear speed calculators on the net. One is
http://www.kabamus.com/garage/gears.html I suggest you make absolutely sure
of your speed and torque needs before purchasing your gears.
Also, will the ETek, controller and battery combination have enough power to
accelerate you and your bike to the speed desired? How about up a hill?
Please post your reply messages to the list so others can learn from your
experiences.
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of BR Deshpande
Sent: July 11, 2005 9:39 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Please Help Newbie - ev bike transmission
Hi All,
I posted this query sometime back but dont know if i got any responses.
Hence the repost.
I have some questions about the choice of rear sprocket for my dirt bike
project. The sprocket will be chain driven by a 36 V etek motor.
Doing some quick and dirty calculations, i came to the conclusion that at
the top rpm of the motor 3600, if i want reasonable top wheel speeds of say
25-30 mph i need to use a teeth ratio of 1:12.
I have been unsuccesful in finding sprockets. The highest i have found so
far is 12:72 (front:rear). I have 18" wheels (24" outer dia of the tires).
The other issue is regarding freewheeling. I am not sure if my Curtis
1201 supports this. It looks like I may have to do it mechanically.
Are there freewheeling sprockets available for a this kind of bike?
I would like some ideas about how to achieve a top speed of 30mph (a
jackshaft for an intermediate step down?) using my current setup and
secondly on what would be a good way to do the freewheeling. Thanks in
advance
Regards,
B.R. Deshpande.
PS: I dont know how to reply to messages in the list. Would appreciate email
responses. Thx.
--
"The resistance to a new idea increases as the square of its importance."
-Bertrand Russell.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart said I could improve my range by putting capacitors between my
controller and battery pack. Would these supercaps be the best option when
they are available or should I just use electrolytics and replace them every
few years? LR.......
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2005 10:45:39 -0400
From: RemyC <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: ICCU Ultracap Breakthrough - Netherlands
Lee Dekker
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
World's most advanced ultracapacitor
ICCU's ultracapacitor has achieved an unheard of price breakthrough per
kilowatt hour of storage capacity and can operate over a minimum thirty-year
lifetime with zero maintenance. The Ultracap will provide an affordable
buffer between utility power generation capacity and power consumption on a
massive scale. It is estimated that this type of device can save up to
fifteen billion dollars ($15 Billion) annually on America's estimated two
hundred billion dollar ($200 Billion) annual electric bill.
No mention of any vehicular applications I could see, but still very
interesting and
likely worth following.
From:
http://news.moneycentral.msn.com/provider/providerarticle.asp?Feed=BW&Date=20050708&ID=4951088
July 08, 2005
Contact Information:
Digital Gas, Inc.
Brian Smith
732-927-4073
energei@ optonline.net
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Otherwise, withoutcutting and re-designing the car, you might not fit
anything
bigger than a 120V pack of Optimas or Orbitals which would give dismal
range.
Marko doesn't do bad with his Fiamp. 50 miles on 120v of Optimas.
LR.........
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all,
I'm planning on making my battery boxes with steel (bed)frames and then lining
them with plastic
boxes and lids. HDPE seems like the right material. Does anyone have a
recommendation for a
plastic welder? I've seen a variety but don't know what options I need and what
don't matter. eBay
has all kinds and prices.
Wattage?
Temp range?
Airless? (I have a compressor.)
Do the rods have to be of the same material as the box?
Can I glue/bond/epoxy the boxes instead of welding?
Fiberglass over thin plywood instead?
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
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--- Begin Message ---
The "shorty" model looks appealing. Do you have any pricing information?
Jeff Shanab wrote:
I have been playing around with an Idea and I'd like the list's input.
I would like to create a design, and prototypes then go ahead and
produce a set of modular transmission and motor components
specifically for EV conversions and ground up conversions.
Item 1 is a hollow shaft transmission with internal clutch.
It will have either 2 or 3 speeds not counting reverse, and drum
roll please, a park.
I talked with charlie at http://www.wintersperformance.com about
there transmission and the bert or brinn trannies, the clutch is only
enguaged on these to give a person reverse or low just to get up to
speed or meet the rules that say they must start from 0 and have a
reverse. Charlie was great, a really nice person, not afraid to talk
to me. a kind of "feel free to call me if you have any more questions"
type a guy. cool. That tranny is 42 Lbs(as low as 37) with only 10
lbs rotating in direct drive.
The idea would be that with a hollow shaft I could drop in any
adapters I need and also use it for transaxle setups
For rear wheel drives, we get rid of the power robbing 90degree turn.
options,
use planatery final drive that bolts on the end allowing straight
thru, if combined with a hollow shaft motor, this allows a transaxle
at the axle level and room for batteries or trunk space above.
use offset style final drive, more efficient but more space
use thru but offset input housing/adapter at motor
How many speeds counting high1:1 ?
Would Overdrive ever be desired in an EV gearbox?
Would a input reduction for use with AC be a nice feature ie 10K rpm
down to 5K rpm
What kind of final drive ratios would be best
we are talking about possibly 10 pieces to be manufatured and sold
the big ones are
1. offset input, this is a c-face mount to motor that drops down to
gearbox. Made about 1.5 inches thick containing sprockets and chain
from Automatic transmission parts supplier. This could serve as an
opertunity to alter the input ratio to the gearbox
or 1a the motor adapter plate for in-line use.
2. The gearbox
3. the final drive unit or
3a tail shaft
4 remote mount shifter
5 clutch master cylinder for vehicles that need to swith from cable or
linkage.
What do you think? what do we EV'rs want in a tranny?
Next week(month) I am gonna go to the wrecking yard and chose a
popular tranny at random and just dissassemble it and see what can be
commendered.
Candidates are GM 4t60-65E or older 125's
Honda
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
STEVE CLUNN wrote:
> No load needed and they run close to one speed under different loads (3600
> or 1800 seems common) , the 60 hz is what sets the speed.
What might be the min/max hz a motor could be ran at? What's the deal
about the windings being wound for "50/60 hz" and what happens if
other hz are used?
What happens when the volts/amps going into the motor are adjusted?
How does that effect it?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Here you go from the University of Toronto
http://www.news.utoronto.ca/bin6/050110-832.asp
Quoting Don Cameron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
At the car show today a fellow was mentioning that Photovoltaic Paint is
actually under development. He mentioned that is much better power/area
ratio than solar cells and may be able to be purchased. Anybody know much of
this technology and its' viability?
thanks
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart said:
> I think the best option may be to have a pusher trailer, where its
> engine actually powers its wheels to "push" the EV. This takes the
load
> off the entire EV drive train, and also eliminates the conversion
losses
> of ICE > generator > batteries > motor.
This prompted me to remind you folks that my pusher trailer is still up
for sale.
See http://www.jstraubel.com/EVpusher/EVpusher.htm for more information.
History: This is JB Straubel's original Pusher "version 1". I bought
it from him several years ago, ready to go, for $500. I used it to get
my Rabbit up to Sacramento, and it worked great! On the way back,
though, the engine overheated (I pushed it too hard), and I had it
completely rebuilt (several hundred more bucks). I thought it would be
a worthwhile investment, as I was spending hundreds bringing my car to
various NEDRA races, but my situation changed, and the arrival of a baby
1.5 years ago means the days of long roadtrips to racetracks are over
for a while. I haven't used it much since then, but it is still legally
registered as a trailer in CA. It is located in the SF Bay Area
(Fremont).
I bought a real gas tank for it to replace the two plastic gas cans (see
pictures). It will need to get mounted and the fuel line plumbed. I
also painted it red. It looks better, but not much. Still will turn
heads.
I'd be happy to answer any further questions offline. All told, I have
a bit over $1000 invested in it and will consider any reasonable offer.
Dean Grannes
1979 VW Rabbit, Blue Phantom
1959 MGA, Fire Chief
Pusher trailer
Zappy scooter
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dave Cover wrote:
> Do the rods have to be of the same material as the box?
I would think so. Check out these various plastic welding rods:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41602
Plastic welders:
Low cost, looks like a soldering iron, and uses compressed air
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41592
Expensive, looks like a heat gun, doesn't use compressed air:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1992&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=608&iSubCat=613&iProductID=1992
Eastwood also has the plastic rods..
Anyone ever used either or seen someone use one before?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In a message dated 7/10/2005 10:16:50 AM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< Is it possible to suck LPG or CNG etc into the intake of an idling CI
engine so as to then have a combined fuel engine? >>
Idling? Probably not a good idea without major injection pump redesign.
There are lots of propane/diesel kits on the market to boost power
(definitely) and mileage (maybe...)
CNG/diesel injection is common; 90% cng for fuel, 10% diesel for ignition.
Very clean running.
Ben
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 7/11/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> In a message dated 7/10/2005 10:16:50 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> << Is it possible to suck LPG or CNG etc into the intake of an idling CI
> engine so as to then have a combined fuel engine? >>
>
> Idling? Probably not a good idea without major injection pump redesign.
> There are lots of propane/diesel kits on the market to boost power
> (definitely) and mileage (maybe...)
> CNG/diesel injection is common; 90% cng for fuel, 10% diesel for ignition.
> Very clean running.
Do you have a link for those systems? The ones I've seen are vapour
induction, nothing to do with the injection system.
(hopefully this is still in the context of range extender engines!)
Regards
Evan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 7/11/05, Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Lee Hart said I could improve my range by putting capacitors between my
> controller and battery pack. Would these supercaps be the best option when
> they are available or should I just use electrolytics and replace them every
> few years? LR.......
Supercaps are electrolytics, of a sort.
If you were putting additional capacitors on the input of an SCR
controller to smooth out the ripple current - less peukert's effect
and less heating of the batteries and cables (thus extending range a
bit), you'd want low ESR capacitors - as far as I know, supercaps are
relatively high ESR - that means, they wouldn't soak up much of the
ripple.
And, bear in mind that this is a investing type announcement, so I
don't imagine you'd get far if you wanted to buy the worlds latest and
greatest supercap anyway :)
I don't think replacing bulk capacitors is something that most people
do every few years. Maybe they're getting a bit shot after 10 years,
in an overloaded Curtis. But, if you work it out properly and fit
sufficient volume and value in the first place, and keep them cool,
there's no reason they shouldn't outlast the vehicle or the rest of
the controller electronics.
Regards
Evan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Tim and Everyone,
I *had* my Iota DC/DC converters switched on by these relays:
http://www.evsource.com/tls_elec_components.php
(the first one on the page). You can run the relay's coil right off of
the main contactor Hairball output (pin #5). I have a 1N4001 diode
across the coil also to prevent kickback (if you need more detail on
that, let me know). Also, make sure to fuse the line from your pack +
to the relay.
I say "had" the Iota connected using relays because I have recently
changed that. I got tired of wearing down my 12V SLI, and my pack
during charging only goes up to about 172V - right about at the limit
that the Iota likes to see, but not exceeding it.
-Ryan
I finally have my Zilla in hand and am ready to
do the install. I also picked up an Iota DLS-55 DC/DC
converter. It has an AC input rating of 132V, *1.33 =
175.5V DC rating. My new pack voltage is going to be
144V (24X6 US145s). With a 2.53V per cell final
charging voltage this works out to 182V. Based on
these numbers I decided to only have the DC/DC run
when the truck is "on".
My original plan was to put it on the controller
side of the main contactor. Reading the Zilla manual,
this is a no go. I am going to have a contactor on the
negative leg as well. The negative contactor will turn
on with the key, before the Hairball gets it's "start"
signal to turn on the positive contactor. Is here any
problem leaving the DC/DC connected to the + side of
the pack and use the contactor in the negative side of
the pack to turn it on and off? If not, what kind of
contactor can I get that will switch 160V dc at about
15 amps?
Thanks in advance for the info, I need to get my
electric back on the road, $58 to fill the ice, and
that's every 9 to 10 days. When I'm commuting with the
electric it goes to $58 every 45 to 60 days!
TiM
--
- EV Source -
Zillas, PFC Chargers, and Netgain WarP motors at great prices!
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Framo-Werke (Germany) introduced their first 3-wheeler in 1932. It was
powered by a 200cc D.K.W engine with compressed air cooling and the vehicle
had the additional function in that it could be converted into a light
truck. Whilst the vehicle had two wheels at the front only one was driven by
the engine. A two seater version was also later introduced called the Framo
Piccolo.
In 1933 the Framo Stromer was created but unlike earlier vehicles it had two
driven front wheels. Whilst the 200cc D.K.W engine was still used a choice
of 400cc and 600cc engines were also available.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Evan Tuer wrote:
> Do you have a link for those systems?
This is the main one I know of:
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=197990&prmenbr=361
http://www.bullydog.com/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Neon John wrote:
On Sat, 09 Jul 2005 10:35:11 -0700,
"Roy LeMeur" wrote:
>This reversing contactor is our Special of the Week-
>http://cloudelectric.com/item.jhtml?UCIDs=866086%7C1215250&PRID=1525364
>
You must have read my mind!!! I need to replace the reversing
contactor on my Citi.
Do you have any experience with this contactor operating overloaded?
I thought I might parallel 2 and see how they hold up at 400 amps
peak.
We have no experience with this particular contactor, they just came in.
Is very similar in many ways to a DC-88-
http://www.bridex.com.au/albright_dc88_to_dc92_contactor_drawings.htm
Are the contacts mechanically interlocked like the stock Citi
contactor?
I believe that is correct.
Do you have the blowout coils available?
The blowouts are permanent magnets, we have some super powerful ones that
can be installed.
TIA,
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
.
Roy LeMeur
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.cloudelectric.com
http://www.dcelectricsupply.com
Cloud Electric Vehicles
19428 66th Ave So, Q-101
Kent, Washington 98032
phone: 425-251-6380
fax: 425-251-6381
Toll Free: 800-648-7716
My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
EV Parts/Gone Postal Photo Galleries:
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/page01.htm
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
>Marko doesn't do bad with his Fiamp. 50 miles on 120v of
>Optimas.
Aren't his the larger Group 31 Optimas instead of the D750s
I was referring to? The Group 31 weighed 16 pounds more than
the 44 pound D750. Try fitting 10 of those Group 31 into
that Schmitt.
Even still, 600 pounds of lead for 50 miles is not at all
bad. What speed is that 50 mile range quoted at? If it's 60+
mph, I'll be very impressed. The Fiat 600 is certainly not
known for having an aerodynamic body. It is quite light, on
the other hand. Only 1/3 of its weight in batteries, so I'm
guessing that range is quoted at 45 mph or so to 100%
discharge.
Any idea what its performance is like? 0-60?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Stu and All,
--- Stu or Jan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> >
> > 72/28 distribution.
> >
> > How about this?
> >
> > Electric front end, engine in rear.
>
> I'd put both in the rear to save weight, cost,
> complication.
> With batts up front for balance, handling.
>
> What about drive traction on slippery roads using 1
> light rear wheel vs a
> FWD heavy?
I doubt that the rear wheel will ever be that
light loaded with driver, especialy if both the ICE
and E motor it admidship.
And when accelerating, weight shift aft. And so
far you amout of stated power will make it hard to
break the rear tire loose even with it being light.
>
> Also, please point the way to Riley's (or any 10
> KW) VP system.
Snowmobile and Salisbury? drives handle that kind
of power. Or Go-cart systems if just for the ICE.
Of course not many snowmobiles in SE Fla!!!
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
>
> BoyntonStu
>
>
____________________________________________________
Sell on Yahoo! Auctions no fees. Bid on great items.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ryan Stotts [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Dave Cover wrote:
>
> > Do the rods have to be of the same material as the box?
>
> I would think so.
Same here. When I welded my HDPE liners I just made my own rods by
cutting narrow strips off some of the left over sheet. I used 1/8"
thick sheet and found that strips about 1/16-1/8" wide worked just fine.
> Check out these various plastic welding rods:
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumb
> er=41602
Notice that PE rod is not offered...
>Plastic welders:
>
> Low cost, looks like a soldering iron, and uses compressed air
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41592
This looks exactly like the unit I used. Mine was borrowed from a local
technical college, so while this unit may be cheaper (if you already
have a compressor ;^), it may actually be the proper/professional
version of the tool.
>Expensive, looks like a heat gun, doesn't use compressed air:
>
>http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1992&i
temType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=608&iSubCat=613&iProductID=1992
I started out thinking I might be able to do my welding with my heat
gun, but upon experimenting discovered that the hot air spreads out too
much and results in far too much warpage of the plastic sheet to be
acceptable. I'm sure the concentrator nozzles that this unit come with
help in this regard, but would still worry that the inability to control
the sir pressure would make it difficult to achieve as good results as
the other type of welder.
> Eastwood also has the plastic rods..
But still none for PE...
> Anyone ever used either or seen someone use one before?
I've used the compressor type. Basically it has a heater element that
is either on or off; no thermostat, you must keep air flowing to avoid
burning it out. You don't need a huge compressor to run it, I think
something like 6-8CFM is plenty (I rented a smallish compressor of the
sort more commonly used to run an air nailer from Home Depot to run it).
You adjust the welder's regulator and welder to workpiece distance to
get the air volume/pressure and temperature just so.
The heatgun type typically has 2 fan speeds (hi/lo) and a dial to adjust
the air temp. Thinking back to welding the inside corners of my battery
boxes, I think that the heat gun type would be ackward to use as it is
way bulkier than the 'pencil iron' style welder. I also think that
having the compressor run for a minute or two every 10 minutes (or so)
is preferable to having a heat gun coninuously whirring loudly inches
from your face, especially when you can stick the compressor somewhere
else to minimise noise and just run an air hose to your work area.
In the end, some of my welds turned out nice enough looking, however,
most were pretty ugly. The welding instructor friend (steel trades
dept) through whom I borrowed the welder tells me he's never seen a
decent looking plastic weld anyway. Looks are a secondary concern,
however. I wasn't super confident in the penetration of my welds and
put a good bead of high quality RTV silicone over all the joints just in
case. If I were to do it again I'd seriously consider just using the
RTV; its faster, better looking, and I don't have to worry about
brittleness of the joints.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 09:33 AM 7/11/2005, you wrote:
Hell to All,
I know the feeling. :^)
I was hoping to see a picture of the Purple Phase, but, alas, just
a white box with a red x. <sigh>
I was amused to see that the longest section was "Wayland's Words".
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Matthew and All,
"Matthew D. Graham" wrote:
> Wow! Great job from the Austin EV crew for the beginnings of a clean,
> informative site! And Chip, you really outdid yourself with that image of
> young Plasma Boy. Perfect!
Yes, I'm lucky to have these guys lending me a hand.
> For those of you who haven't checked it out yet, the picture gallery in the
> media center shows a lot of great step-by-step processes, like the detailed
> construction of a battery box, the Siamese 8, and the 13" motor for Purple
> Phase.
Yes, and there is more to come in the way of step by step photo stories on
building
different EV stuff. I take digital shots of pretty much everything I do, and
with my high
speed cable setup coming in two weeks, I'll be able to send off lots of pics,
so it will
be easier for me to put the photo stories together.
> John, we're looking forward to more pictures and videos!
Thanks Matt, it's great to get the feedback.
>From Dave Cover:
> I just downloaded a 65M file (Blue Meanie) and it has a .txt extension, not
> .MOV like the other
> vidoes there. You may want to find out why the file is named that way before
> too many people try
> it and fail.
>
Thanks Dave. Yeah, we pretty much knew about that error, but this is the kind
of feedback
we need right now so we can get it right. We couldn't get it to work
either....again,
we're pretty new at all this. That was the very first video we sent up to the
site, and
even the video itself was an error of sorts...way too large, and three videos
all linked
together, instead of being separated from each other. I think Tim is working on
it tonight
to correct the problem. The first section of that video, is a great vintage '84
bit, the
one I mentioned in my email this morning. The second one, is a '95 show and
tell demo of
Blue Meanie back when Optimas were still prototype only, and a 500 amp
air-cooled Auburn
running at 144V was the hot controller ticket. It does have some cool car
stereo demo
stuff, and even a bit of tire smoking :-) The last part, is a video clip from a
professionally done production called 'Where the Rubber Meets the Road'. It
features great
shots of Blue Meanie cruising at speed, and, my one day build of a '67 Datsun
minitruck,
complete with duct tape! I was honored to be on the same production that ex GM
CEO Robert
Stemple was on, and he even does a voice-over as I'm driving the minitruck out
the metal
shop's door late at night and as I'm heading down the road. That truck was later
drastically refined and went on to become 'Baby Blue', now owned by friend John
Tuss and
viewable at the EV Photo Album.
If any of you visit the photo pages, be sure and check back every once in a
while, as I'm
still putting more stuff up, nightly.
See Ya...John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, July 11, 2005 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: Small AC motor question
STEVE CLUNN wrote:
No load needed and they run close to one speed under different loads
(3600
or 1800 seems common) , the 60 hz is what sets the speed.
What might be the min/max hz a motor could be ran at? What's the deal
about the windings being wound for "50/60 hz" and what happens if
other hz are used?
I'm not the ac motor expert so somebody may have to correct me , . as the hz
goes up so dose the speed of the motor but the inductance also goes up , so
you would need more voltage to keep the same power coming out . ac motors
are allot like transformers . if you don't have a load on the secondary then
the primary won't pass much current , if you don't have a load on the motor
than it also won't take much current ether. When you load the motor down you
change how close the primary and secondary are , more current flows in both
and more power is made.
What happens when the volts/amps going into the motor are adjusted?
How does that effect it?
The funny thing is this doesn't effect the speed of the motor unless you go
to extremes ( where it dies form to much or to little ) . raising the
voltage ( and current ) won't make the motor go any faster it will just heat
up . Its the same with transformers , You need a certain amount of wire ,
and metal . The two determine the amount of power the motor will put out.
There is a device that you can plug your ac motor ( refrigerator ) into and
it will cut back the ac volts a little , once the motor is up the rpm and
make the motor use less power ( maybe 10%) .
Steve clunn .
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you actually get snow buildup on roads, the 4 wheel cars tend to
make 2 ruts. I've read that the single wheel of a 3 wheeler tends to
have trouble riding on the snow berm in the middle of the road and
tends to slide into one of the ruts. I can imagine if this is the
driven wheel the problem is even worse.
> --- Stu or Jan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > What about drive traction on slippery roads using 1
> > light rear wheel vs a
> > FWD heavy?
__________________________________
Discover Yahoo!
Have fun online with music videos, cool games, IM and more. Check it out!
http://discover.yahoo.com/online.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Just how is it that EV motors - or any electric motors for that matter - get
serviced, rebuilt, replaced, etc? I mean, assuming one does not do the work
himself, which probably many on this list do. So don't tell me what expert
Ev-ers do. What does the "generic person" do when they have a bad electric
motor
in an appliance - say an air conditioner compressor, a washer or dryer motor,
a ceiling fan motor, etc.
Well, it just occurred to me that the "generic person" merely throws the
whole appliance away and buys another one. So let's say you are in between the
generic person who forever throws away anything broke, and some technical EV
nerd who has the skills and tools and know-how to rebuild or fix an electric
motor himself. Say you're the guy who takes a bad electric motor out of an
appliance, but at that point scratches his head (my Dad would fall into this
category). What does this guy do?
In the ICE automotive world, the in between generic person who takes a bad
part off his car will go to the nearest Autozone or whatever and drop the bad
part on the counter, leave that as the "core," and pick up a new/rebuilt one.
Does it function this way in the electric motor world (probably a stupid
question)? Under this "model," it is probably too expensive in terms of labor
and
whatever else for there to be some guy in the back of a shop somewhere who
could actually fix a bad automotive part - *your* part. Therefore there's some
assembly line of anonymous bad automotive parts flowing out of these Autozone
type places off to God-knows where to get rebuilt, and an assembly line of
anonymous fixed/rebuilt auto parts flowing the other way to the "dealer." You
drop
off your bad part, and you grab a good part. We'll call this "model 1." A
good question would also be - what is the person or entity at the end of this
flow of bad parts who ends up fixing/rebuilding all this stuff?
Living in Alabama as a kid, I seem to remember going with my dad to some
electric motor shop to "get a motor rewound" or words to that effect. I
remember
we left the motor, and a few days later we went back to pick it up again.
This shop was rather large, and downtown, and I remember there being rows upon
rows of shelves behind the dude's counter, filled with electric motors. Under
this model, some dude actually takes your motor, takes it apart, determines the
problem, fixes it, and you get your motor back. I think this dude would also
sell you some rebuilt motor, if you needed one. I presume that under this
model, the cost to fix an individual motor on an individual basis would still
be
lower than just junking the motor and buying a new one. But just thinking
about it, this might only apply to larger more expensive motors. At any rate,
we'll call this "model 2."
Question 1: Which way does it work, for the most part? Model 1? Model 2?
Some other model? If model 1, name the entity responsible, in the end, for
rebuilding the motor. You know, personally, I don't see electric motor shops
on
every corner, if ever. Are there only a few of them? Is it a good business?
Question 2: How do you foresee things working in the future, when most
everyone has an electric or a hybrid? Do you foresee lots of electric traction
motors needing lots of servicing, rebuilding, etc? If so, who's gonna do it?
If
the dealer would replace the motor, where does the dealer send the bad one? I
doubt the car manufacturers themselves would run motor repair shops back at
main headquarters. Anyone have a clue as to how this will work?
Thanks.
Sam
--- End Message ---
