EV Digest 4511
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: DC/DC
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Ship or leave - could be a free glider in Sacramento
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Fwd: Ship or leave - could be a free glider in Sacramento
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) NEDRA coverage in Wired rumored
by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) 12v Flooded battery advice.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Car Simulation
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Hacking the Dymaxion idea.
by "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: 12v Flooded battery advice.
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Hacking the Dymaxion idea.
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Very simple BMS
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Ni cad charging, Re: Very simple BMS
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Very simple BMS
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: A few NiMH's on eBay
by "George S." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Trojan vs US batt, US batt phone number? Re: 12v Flooded battery advice.
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: Hacking the Dymaxion idea.
by "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: NEDRA coverage in Wired rumored
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Ni cad charging, Re: Very simple BMS
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: A few NiMH's on eBay
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Ni cad charging, Re: Very simple BMS
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Very simple BMS
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Hacking the Dymaxion idea.
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Ni cad charging, Re: Very simple BMS
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Ni cad charging, Re: Very simple BMS
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Grandpa likes the EV
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: Hacking the Dymaxion idea. RE; Lee Hart
by "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Fwd: Ship or leave - Like it? Bring it!!!!
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Ni cad charging, Re: Very simple BMS
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Ni cad charging, Re: Very simple BMS
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Hacking the Dymaxion idea.
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: Ni cad charging, Re: Very simple BMS
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: Ni cad charging, Re: Very simple BMS
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Victor wrote:
>Some newer car's wiring is modified that you
>can't even turn it off. My mom's VW Jetta is that way.
This worked on a '95 S10:
Set the parking brake one or two clicks. It might turn off the day
time running lights without engaging the rear brakes. First see if
the lights turn off when the parking brake is pulled, then see how
much it takes to engage the parking brake.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hard call. I'd say if you like it ship it. You won't find a clean glider
back east for cheap. This is where the cheap cars are. Everything where
you are going is rusted. If not you pay a high price. I'd say that the
shipping cost is what you'd pay back there for a beater. If you don't
believe me look on local sales sites back east where you are going. You
will be shocked. A clean California car is worth it's weight in gold back
east. LR.........
----- Original Message -----
From: "John OConnor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 1:23 PM
Subject: Ship or leave - could be a free glider in Sacramento
Hello All,
I am in need of advice.
Currently in Sacramento Ca, I am smack in the middle
to converting my Nissan pickup. However I have
accepted a job in Holyoke Mass. Now I need to decide
if I want to ship the truck, or leave it here and
start fresh on the east coast.
So far I have removed all ICE components and
disassembled the dash, and un-loomed most of the wire
looms.
Initial quotes indicate a shipping price of about
$2,000 including the camper cap bed cover, and
ElectroAuto is in the process of making me an adapter
plate.
While almost 20 years old the vehicle has only spent 2
winters in a region that salts roads (Maine) with the
rest of the time in NC, eastern WA and CA, so other
than the needing a new paint job it is in good shape.
Leaving out the sentimental factor of having driven
this truck for close to 20 years, it seems that it
makes sense to leave it here in CA, if I can get a
replacement donor in Mass for about $1,000.
Anyone willing to hazard a guess as to the possibility
of finding a suitable donor in Western/Central Mass?
If I decide not to ship it, there would be a free
glider available in Sacramento, and I'll be willing
make a deal on an EA adapter plate!!!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Another option is a drive away. You may still want a good glider back east.
One way is to find an inexpensive running auto. I found my replacement
Aspire with 92 k on it with a good body. It cost me 650 dollars. Have
someone drive it back east(called a driveaway) they pay for the gas and get
the use of a car to drive. Works out good for everyone. LR..
----- Original Message -----
From: "John OConnor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 3:22 PM
Subject: Re: Fwd: Ship or leave - could be a free glider in Sacramento
Dave points out what I figured would be a problem -
rust.
However, even if I can get the vehicle to MA cheaply
via my relocation package, we will be renting for a
while and I am somewhat concerned about dealing with a
non-operational vehicle while renting. If I store it
until we buy a house then those dollars will begin to
add up.
Do you Northeast converters "import" your donors, do
you just have to be patient and wait for the right
candidate, or just pay more for a relatively rust free
vehicle?
As for timing, I'll be a New Englander again in
September.
The more I think about it the more I think there will
be a free glider available in Sacramento.
John
--- Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
--- John OConnor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> I am in need of advice.
> While almost 20 years old the vehicle has only
spent 2
> winters in a region that salts roads (Maine) with
the
John, a couple of points;
- You may never find $1000 vehicle around here
without any rust.
- You've done half the work already, and that can be
the worst/dirtiest part of the job.
- Is your new employer providing any moving expense?
- There may not be as many EVers out here, but you
won't be alone. I'm about an hour from Holyoke
and I'm pretty sure there are others even closer.
(Bob R, who's up that way?)
When are you going to be out this way?
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Just an FYI:
Rumor has it that Wired magazine is going to include the Woodburn NEDRA
event in their "events calendar" section along with a photo or two of
vehicles from past Woodburn events.
Hopefully this will mean a better than usual participant/spectator
turnout.
-Ken Trough
Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM - ktrough
FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I know 6v batteries are the best when it comes to flooded but I have a
project to complete using 12v Sweeper batteries.10 batteries for a 120v
system. Space issues. Trojan, US & Interstate are the options footprint
wise. Barring price would the Trojans be the ones? There the choice is the
J150 which is a new model or a 5HSP. The Interstate is the U 1450 & the US
is the EV 145. They all weigh just under 90 pounds. Is there a better
option?
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I got sick and tired of trusting my own EV acceleration calculations, so I
coughed up $40 and purchased a simulation program. I purchased CarTest2000
http://www.cartestsoftware.com/cartest2000/index.html . I think Patrick did
a great job of this software. It does 1/4 mi, 0-60mph, has 50 different
tracks for timing testing and 100 ice vehicles to race against. I enter the
torque curves for the motor, and the various transmission ratios and let it
rip.
It even computes fuel economy! ;-)
I am still working on validating it against actual measured data in the New
Beetle EV. I will post the results.
For those of you who want to do simulations, plus graphics check out "Racer"
http://www.racer.nl/ it is freeware car simulation, but has awesome game
type graphics as well. Bit OTT for me, but for others...
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The Dymaxion was a great car. Let's start with that as a good example of a
role model.
2F/1R with rear wheel steering and almost 20 feet long, aero, highly
maneuverable, and efficient, 1933!
Let's think smaller and lighter and hybrid and:
What if everything beyond the rear steering pivot point was steered?
The motor, the engine, transmissions, etc.
Up front, just the passengers.
Anything goes wrong, disconnect the back, slip in new motor, engine, etc.
Not an articulated body. Only the innards are articulated.
Instead of thinking light and short, think light and l-o-n-g enough to
accomplish the task.
Advantages: better ride with longer wheelbase, great control with RWS, easy
parking, and some extra safety in crashes.
BoyntonStu
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> Barring price would the Trojans be the ones?
As far as flooded's go, I'm under the impression Trojans are the best.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Stu or Jan wrote:
> The Dymaxion was a great car. Let's start with that as a good example of a
> role model.
What are you planning on doing?
> Let's think smaller and lighter and hybrid and:
Why hybrid? Doesn't seem very long term considering pollution and
$10/gal gasoline(or even no fuel).
You were around in '73 weren't you? Did you like it? Exciting times?
Wait in any lines for fuel?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Interesting....
It looks like voltage detect works very well on the THESE NiCds....
Hummm
Well, I really don't know. Maybe I will take a set of these and just put
them on charge till the dtemp/dt thresholds are tripped. Or until they
saddle somewhere with dv/dt and start to drop before doing the big
skyrocket. Or till they hit 1.8vpc (the fail-safe).
I'll do that on a sealed set of 5 in a weekend or two. The BQ2003
charger is working well and I have upped the N-MOSFets and diodes to
support up to 12amp rates. Coupled with the fan I can run the thing at
full blast for up to 72ah of charging at a shot. By that poit something
should happen, and it will make for a really good graph.
Above 12amp charge rates I think I am going to need a bigger charge
design...
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Dave and All,
--- Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> --- jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > > They need 110% replaced if fully charged
> before discharged.
> > > >
>
> I'm getting there, albeit slowly. I'm trying to
> understand if I can set up a charging process
> that's as close to plug-and-play as possible.
> (Unless there's a magic wire I can hook from my
> Emeter to a PFC.)
There is though I'm not an expert on that. That is
the best way by far to do it as it counts amphrs which
is the best way to charge Ni cads. Voltage is not a
good indicator on them.
May be direct on Rich's PFC possibly or to a relay
for any dumb charger using the smarts of the E meter.
But you must be careful hooking anything to an E meter
for isolation or bye bye E meter so a relay is smart.
Needs very low coil current I hear.
>
> So here's a made-up scenario to help me understand.
> Is this more like it?
>
> Let's assume 44AH pack, running them down to 90% DOD
> = 40 AH taken out.
> Charging 110% means 44AH going back in. (Pretend
> these are close enough.)
>
> So I can charge at 10 amps for 3.5 hours and then
> taper down to 1 amp for another 9 hours?
You could but better to just steady current until
full.
>
> Do they gas less at lower rates?
Not, maybe more even.
>
> If I only run 38AH out of them and then apply the
> same charge as above, what happens?
You water more often unless they were too hot to
start with. When hot their full charge voltage lowers
sometimes causing a voltage regulated charger to think
they are not charged and keep on charging,
overheating. And if left on long enough, maybe ruining
them though I have accidently left them on at 1.5C
charge for 10 hrs and they lived though one or 2 lost
cap and were dry, saving the rest. This is why you
need a timer as back up.
They will take many times more abuse than lead
floodeds and AGM's aren't even in the same country!
> Overkill or battery kill?
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave Cover
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour:
http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Chris and All,
--- Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Interesting....
> > It looks like voltage detect works very well on
> the THESE NiCds....
> >
> > Hummm
>
> Well, I really don't know. Maybe I will take a set
> of these and just put
> them on charge till the dtemp/dt thresholds are
> tripped. Or until they
> saddle somewhere with dv/dt and start to drop before
> doing the big
> skyrocket. Or till they hit 1.8vpc (the fail-safe).
I'd lower that to 1.7/cell in 5 lots especially
in the beginning as some are going to be really high
voltage while others are playing catch up. And after
being 1.7v for a short while depending on current,
they will heat up and voltage will drop.
After a cell gets into 1.65, most all the current
turns to heat so should only let that happen to
equalize other cells for as short a time as nessasary.
After 5 or so charges they should all hit 1.65
within a couple mimutes of each other if they were
equalized before discharging.
>
> I'll do that on a sealed set of 5 in a weekend or
> two. The BQ2003
> charger is working well and I have upped the
> N-MOSFets and diodes to
> support up to 12amp rates. Coupled with the fan I
> can run the thing at
> full blast for up to 72ah of charging at a shot. By
> that point something
> should happen, and it will make for a really good
> graph.
You should do each cell's voltage by hand if
nessasary for the 95% charge and more to see how each
cells voltages change ffirst up then down.
Put you temp probe in the center as they will be
the hottest ones.
And this should be on cells that have had at
least 5 charges on them before real testing or your
results won't match cells with more charges.
Treat these cells right and they will be good for
20-30 or more yrs like mine have been.
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
>
> Above 12amp charge rates I think I am going to need
> a bigger charge
> design...
>
> Chris
>
>
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 06:03 PM 7/17/2005 -0400, you wrote:
I wonder where they are coming from. A truck filled with 25 of these (300
volt base system) would have 100 mile range easily.
Mmmmm..... No, stick with the NiCDs for now CZ :-)
Chris
They are coming from crushed EV1's in GM's Mesa Arizona proving grounds.
George S.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Ryan, Lawrence and All,
--- Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
>
> > Barring price would the Trojans be the ones?
>
> As far as flooded's go, I'm under the impression
> Trojans are the best.
They and US batt are about the same and many
were designed by the same person, Narzai? Now with US
batt.
Anyone have his phone number or e mail, real
name, as I need to talk to him?
US batt is much friendlier to EV'ers too vs
Trojan who doesn't seem to care.
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Find what you need with new enhanced search.
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hybrid allows one to get home after discharge. I am talking 75 MPG here.
I was around in '73. I had a Fiat 850.
I am planning my next project. At the moment in my mind. Putting together
the best ideas from the past and the present.
No fuel = no EV.
BoyntonStu.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Ryan Stotts
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 9:23 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Hacking the Dymaxion idea.
Stu or Jan wrote:
> The Dymaxion was a great car. Let's start with that as a good example of
a
> role model.
What are you planning on doing?
> Let's think smaller and lighter and hybrid and:
Why hybrid? Doesn't seem very long term considering pollution and
$10/gal gasoline(or even no fuel).
You were around in '73 weren't you? Did you like it? Exciting times?
Wait in any lines for fuel?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This is not a rumor but the truth. While I was en route back from Arizona I
received an email from Pennie Rossini from Wired and I responded and filled
her in. Aren't motels with DSL and better great now days. It is so much fun
living in the future. It cracks me up sometimes. Thanks Ken for bringing it
up. Today is my first day back in the office.
Roderick Wilde
NEDRA President
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Trough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 5:25 PM
Subject: NEDRA coverage in Wired rumored
Just an FYI:
Rumor has it that Wired magazine is going to include the Woodburn NEDRA
event in their "events calendar" section along with a photo or two of
vehicles from past Woodburn events.
Hopefully this will mean a better than usual participant/spectator
turnout.
-Ken Trough
Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM - ktrough
FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
jerry dycus wrote:
Hi Dave and All,
--- Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
--- jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
They need 110% replaced if fully charged
before discharged.
I'm getting there, albeit slowly. I'm trying to
understand if I can set up a charging process
that's as close to plug-and-play as possible.
(Unless there's a magic wire I can hook from my
Emeter to a PFC.)
The way I did it in playing around was to take the output of the
E-meter, run it into a BASIC/STAMP computer and have it watch the lines
coming in one per second. When it saw the ah count go positive it knew
the pack had hit equal and dropped the line that held the transistor/red
relay open for the charger.
As a bonus you don't have to worry about calculating that 110% thing;
just set the E-meter with a 90% CEF. When the green light flashes (a 5
or something in one of those fields) you have 110% charge.
Bit clunky, but it can be done.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
They are coming from crushed EV1's in GM's Mesa Arizona proving grounds.
Makes sense, and at $50 a pop they are a hell of a steal.
I've been chatting with the guy. Apparently people are deluging him with
orders right now so he's gone from being friendly to quite direct.
Anyone know how to get a shipper for picking a pallet up? Anyone in DC
want to go in on a bunch?
Yes, I know: I need these like I need a hole in my head. But I have this
really great battery charger for NiCD/NiMH..........
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> The way I did it in playing around was to take the output of the
> E-meter, run it into a BASIC/STAMP computer and have it watch the lines
> coming in one per second. When it saw the ah count go positive it knew
> the pack had hit equal and dropped the line that held the transistor/red
> relay open for the charger.
>
> As a bonus you don't have to worry about calculating that 110% thing;
> just set the E-meter with a 90% CEF. When the green light flashes (a 5
> or something in one of those fields) you have 110% charge.
>
Being a programming geek by profession, I'd love to try my hand at the BASIC
STAMP route. Reading
about the things people have been able to do with them sounds like fun. Can you
give me some
details about your setup and maybe a suggestion for a good beginners kit.
Unfortunately my eMeter
does not have the serial output so I'm going to keep my eyes open for one that
does. Anyone have
one to trade for a regular Link 10 (brand new) without output?
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Christopher Zach wrote:
> So far these flooded Safts are kind of weird. I've watched them charge
> and discharge using the E-meter and dumping the results every second to
> a laptop. With Excel and pivot table it looks like they come up to 1.3
> volts fast, then 1.4 volts, then sit at 1.40-1.49 volts for the bulk
> charge. About the time the AH counter hits zero they start climbing to
> 1.5 volts, then thru 1.6 volts very quickly.
This behavior isn't weird; it's normal for flooded nicads.
If you want to use voltage for your full-charge indicator, charge at a
constant current and look for the voltage to peak, and then start to
fall. Note that the voltage drop is small, and may be hidden if your
charging current is too high, or the cells are too hot, or you have so
many cells in series that the peak is spread out too much.
Counting amphours is a more reliable indicator for nicads. Put back 110%
of the charge removed, and you will be very close to correct.
--
The two most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity.
-- Harlan Ellison
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Stu or Jan wrote:
> The Dymaxion was a great car.
It was an absolutely incredible car... in 1933. But a lot of advances
have been made since then.
> Let's start with that as a good example of a role model.
I think what was important about the Dymaxion is *how* it was invented.
Buckminster Fuller basically hired the very best minds, put them in a
room, and told them to start with a blank sheet of paper and design the
very best car possible. Don't limit yourself to what's been done before,
or how people think it "should" be done.
As a result, the Dymaxion borrowed heavily from aircraft and boat
designs, which were far more advanced than automobiles in the 1930s.
If you did the same thing today, using the extra knowledge and
technology we have no, there's no telling what it would lead to!
--
The two most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity.
-- Harlan Ellison
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dave Cover wrote:
> I'm getting there, albeit slowly. I'm trying to understand if I
> can set up a charging process that's as close to plug-and-play
> as possible.
Yes. It's pretty easy to automate nicad charging, because the
consequences of overcharging are so benign.
> (Unless there's a magic wire I can hook from my Emeter to a PFC.)
There is, sort of. Get an E-meter with the alarm outputs. Use them to
operate a relay. Program the E-meter with a 90% CEF (so "full" is 110%
more amphours than you took out). Program the E-meter alarm to turn off
at 100% SOC. Use the relay's contacts to turn off the charger.
> Let's assume 44AH pack, running them down to 90% DOD = 40 AH taken
> out. Charging 110% means 44AH going back in. (Pretend these are
> close enough.)
Yes, that's close enough.
> So I can charge at 10 amps for 3.5 hours and then taper down to
> 1 amp for another 9 hours?
Yes. That's 44ah.
> Do they gas less at lower rates?
Yes, but there's a catch.
Lithiums don't gas at all, so essentially 100% of the charger current
goes into charging. Any excess amphours makes heat or destroys
something.
Lead-acids gas over 2.35v/cell (14.1v for a 12v battery). Below this,
essentially 100% of the charger current goes into charging. Over this,
and some percentage goes into heating and gassing. But luckily, "fully
charged" is about 2.25v/cell (13.5v for a 12v battery). Therefore, you
can apply a voltage that is below the gassing point, but above the
full-charge point. So you can fully charge them without gassing. The
drawback is that it takes DAYS to reach full charge if you limit the
voltage like this.
Nicads don't reach "full" until you reach 1.54v/cell. But they start
gassing at 1.42v/cell. Therefore, it is impossible to reach full charge
without gassing. If you try to charge nicads at too low a voltage or too
low a current, you only get up to about 50-75% SOC, and then the
remaining charging current is just wasted in heating and gassing.
For the best results, you therefore need to put in the last 25% or so of
the charging current relatively quickly, so you can turn off the charger
and let the voltage fall back below the gassing point. Not too fast, or
you get excessive gassing and heating. Not too slowly, or you stop
charging (producing small amounts of heat and gas, but no charging).
--
The two most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity.
-- Harlan Ellison
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Being a programming geek by profession, I'd love to try my hand at the BASIC
STAMP route. Reading
about the things people have been able to do with them sounds like fun. Can you
give me some
details about your setup and maybe a suggestion for a good beginners kit.
Unfortunately my eMeter
does not have the serial output so I'm going to keep my eyes open for one that
does. Anyone have
one to trade for a regular Link 10 (brand new) without output?
Sure, Radio shack sells a Parallax Basic Stamp kit for like $70 or so.
Has a book, CD, great breadboard, the works.
Chris
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Everyone,
I just got back from a trip (funeral :( ) to Idaho about 200 miles from
home. I was talking with my ~80 year old grandpa who is usually pretty
quiet. He kept asking questions about the 200sx. It's fun to see the
level of interest people take in the electric car. He really surprised
me when he asked about "the car company that made an electric that would
go ~175 miles". I think he was talking about the EV1.
So everyone that is contemplating a conversion, LET'S GET THEM ROLLING!
People need to see these awesome EV's on the road - and have them become
the topic of conversation at work and family events :)
As a quick side note, the EV Source website was down for the day. I
don't know why my web servers have to take vacation only when I do.
Things are back up now.
-Ryan
--
- EV Source -
Zillas, PFC Chargers, and Netgain WarP motors at great prices!
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee,
You have stated exactly what I was attempting to say.
I wonder what Bucky would come up with today?
What design items are on your wish list?
BoyntonStu
If you did the same thing today, using the extra knowledge and
technology we have no, there's no telling what it would lead to!
--
The two most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity.
-- Harlan Ellison
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "John OConnor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: Fwd: Ship or leave - could be a free glider in Sacramento
> Another option is a drive away. You may still want a good glider back
east.
> One way is to find an inexpensive running auto. I found my replacement
> Aspire with 92 k on it with a good body. It cost me 650 dollars. Have
> someone drive it back east(called a driveaway) they pay for the gas and
get
> the use of a car to drive. Works out good for everyone. LR..
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John OConnor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 3:22 PM
> Subject: Re: Fwd: Ship or leave - could be a free glider in Sacramento
>
>
> > Dave points out what I figured would be a problem -
> > rust.
> >
> > However, even if I can get the vehicle to MA cheaply
> > via my relocation package, we will be renting for a
> > while and I am somewhat concerned about dealing with a
> > non-operational vehicle while renting. If I store it
> > until we buy a house then those dollars will begin to
> > add up.
> >
Hi John;
If ya like the truck, hang on to it, get your new Co. to ship it
east. I could keep it in CT ,Can't promise INDOOR storage, rite now, though.
til ya get settled in. The problem we have here in the East is terminal
RUST! EVery car delivered in the East comes with Rust-O-Matic! Right from
the factory! Heres a good biz plan I think. Guy in the East wants an older
glider. Guy in West takes order, color car make and all that. Western guy
buys car, arranges to ship it a sort of space available with an auto
transport outfit, getting a sorta "standby" price. Would be nice if car were
de ICEd breforehand, but maybe the transport guyz want the car to run, EVen
just bealy? So to make loading easier? I know the West is a great sourse of
older cars. We guyz marvel at the "Portland Antique Daily Driver " show in
our visits to PDX. Chevy Corvair pickups, old AMC stuff just driving around
out there. I saw a grounded Chevy bus a 49! Guy was walking over to a parts
store for a fuel pump! Came from Calif! A camper bus, EVen older than my
54!Lottsa V-dubs! All flavors.
I like the older stuff for it's simplicity in taking apart or modifying,
price is right out west. I saw a rather nice 82 Jetta in a lot off Glisen
St, in PDX,asked about it 2 years ago, it was STILL there the next year, He
didn't have the paperwork or he woulda givin it to me, guy said.. But I
guess he got tired of it on his lot, and got rid of it, as it was gone LAST
year!
> > Do you Northeast converters "import" your donors, do
> > you just have to be patient and wait for the right
> > candidate, or just pay more for a relatively rust free
> > vehicle?
> > After the above I think it would be a good idea to Import your doners
> > As for timing, I'll be a New Englander again in
> > September.
Yeah, Me too, back from Woodburn. The temptation is to buy a clean
doner in Or and strip it out for lite towing back east. My kid just bought a
California car on E bay, a 63 Falcon, BEAUTIFUL shape, for 850bux I think he
sed?
> >
> > The more I think about it the more I think there will
> > be a free glider available in Sacramento.
> >
> > John
> > --- Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >> --- John OConnor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> wrote:
> >> > I am in need of advice.
> >> > While almost 20 years old the vehicle has only
> >> spent 2
> >> > winters in a region that salts roads (Maine) with
> >> the
> >>
> >> John, a couple of points;
> >>
> >> - You may never find $1000 vehicle around here
> >> without any rust.
For SURE!
> >> - You've done half the work already, and that can be
> >> the worst/dirtiest part of the job.
> >> - Is your new employer providing any moving expense?
> >> - There may not be as many EVers out here, but you
> >> won't be alone. I'm about an hour from Holyoke
> >> and I'm pretty sure there are others even closer.
Holyoke? Right in the Pioneer Valley Chapter of the EAA, they are
in Amheast, I think? We have ya covered as we have a chapter in Worcester,
as well as a few of us in CT
> >>
(Bob R, who's up that way?)
> >>A few of us for now, hoping to bring more guyz into the fold.
> >> When are you going to be out this way?
> >>
> >> Dave Cover
> >
> Seeya
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Keep an eye on listings by pbasic1 on ebay. They are are contractor that is
selling all of Parallax's returns as refurbished. I got a great deal on a
BOE bot from them and when it was missing some parts I just had to contact
Parallax support and they shipped me out the missing pieces, so you can bid
with confidence. Right now they have 56 of the kits Chris is talking about
currently listed at $24.99. There is still 3 days left on the auction, but
only 12 of the kits spoken for so far, so you probably wouldn't have to pay
much if anymore than the $24.99 price. This is a fun kit and includes a BS2
embedded in their Homework board. The BS2 itself usually runs about $50.
damon
From: Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: EVList <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Ni cad charging, Re: Very simple BMS
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 20:31:47 -0700 (PDT)
--- Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> The way I did it in playing around was to take the output of the
> E-meter, run it into a BASIC/STAMP computer and have it watch the lines
> coming in one per second. When it saw the ah count go positive it knew
> the pack had hit equal and dropped the line that held the transistor/red
> relay open for the charger.
>
> As a bonus you don't have to worry about calculating that 110% thing;
> just set the E-meter with a 90% CEF. When the green light flashes (a 5
> or something in one of those fields) you have 110% charge.
>
Being a programming geek by profession, I'd love to try my hand at the
BASIC STAMP route. Reading
about the things people have been able to do with them sounds like fun. Can
you give me some
details about your setup and maybe a suggestion for a good beginners kit.
Unfortunately my eMeter
does not have the serial output so I'm going to keep my eyes open for one
that does. Anyone have
one to trade for a regular Link 10 (brand new) without output?
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Chris,
I have a serial emeter and will be using a basic/stamp chip in a charger, I
would love to be able to use it also for reading when the charging is done.
Could you send me the programming that you did for the stamp? I'm real new to
the stamp programming so any help would be helpful. I've gotten the parallax
board of education kit and am reading the manual
Thanks
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: Ni cad charging, Re: Very simple BMS
>
> The way I did it in playing around was to take the output of the
> E-meter, run it into a BASIC/STAMP computer and have it watch the lines
> coming in one per second. When it saw the ah count go positive it knew
> the pack had hit equal and dropped the line that held the transistor/red
> relay open for the charger.
>
> As a bonus you don't have to worry about calculating that 110% thing;
> just set the E-meter with a 90% CEF. When the green light flashes (a 5
> or something in one of those fields) you have 110% charge.
>
> Bit clunky, but it can be done.
>
> Chris
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Lee, Stu and All,
--- Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Stu or Jan wrote:
> > The Dymaxion was a great car.
>
> It was an absolutely incredible car... in 1933. But
> a lot of advances
> have been made since then.
>
> > Let's start with that as a good example of a role
> model.
>
> I think what was important about the Dymaxion is
> *how* it was invented.
> Buckminster Fuller basically hired the very best
> minds, put them in a
Thank you for bring this up as I was about to.
The Dymaxion was designed by Starling? Burgess.
The top yacht, America's Cup racers and many other
things, designer of the day who headed the team.
While it was Bucky's car, idea, it was not his
design.
> room, and told them to start with a blank sheet of
> paper and design the
> very best car possible. Don't limit yourself to
> what's been done before,
> or how people think it "should" be done.
Yes, it was such a refreshing approach and one we
really need to do today for our morbid auto industry.
They need to completely rethink both the
body/chassis and drive train, power source which would
naturally lead them to EV drive kicking and screaming.
But it must be done or Detroit auto's will die as they
have been shrinking for yrs and will shrink into
oblivion if they don't change their ways.
>
> As a result, the Dymaxion borrowed heavily from
> aircraft and boat
> designs, which were far more advanced than
> automobiles in the 1930s.
>
> If you did the same thing today, using the extra
> knowledge and
> technology we have no, there's no telling what it
> would lead to!
I'm trying by using the same boat, aircraft tech
of today to make better transportation so able to take
best advantage of EV drives to cut costs in materials
and labor while greatly increasing mileage,
performance/$
Today I go to see how the molds are coming along,
hopefully good news. Also buying the final material
for the composite chassis mold.
I can't believe in this day and age Detroit hasn't
went much farter into the great advantages of
composite auto construction like aircraft are doing
now and boats have done for 1/2 a century!!
I could see if it cost more but it doesn't!! My
costing has come out much less than Detroit doing them
in metal and I can make good profits on 10's of EV's
where Detroit has to build 100,000 cars/yr just to
break even!!
Stu, stick to more normal steering of the frnot
wheels and you will be better off. While rear steering
works fair to good at low speeds, to say good at high
speeds is stretching it a bit.
To both drive and steer a rear wheel is asking
for trouble. Pick one or 2 new things at a time to
experiment with and then use them before going on to
new ones or failure is the probable result.
It's time for you to stop talking and pick
something and do it. Build a rear steerer and find out
just how they work instead of talking it to death for
instance.
While my stuff looks radical, I have experience
in most of it before so chance is much less.
And build cheap, quick, and dirty to test things
out, learn before putting too much work into things
that will most certainly fail. I usually build 3,
first very quick and dirty to test, then one to put
what I've learn into pratice then a third which takes
all the lessons and put them into a great, well built
product.
That's why I like Wood/epoxy as one can be built
in a couple days very cheaply and easy to modify.
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
> --
> The two most common elements in the universe are
> hydrogen and stupidity.
> -- Harlan Ellison
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377,
> leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
>
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Damon
Thanks for the info on the pbasic1 kits on eBay, I just put my bid in for one.
Can't wait!
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
. Unfortunately my eMeter
does not have the serial output so I'm going to keep my eyes open for one
that does. Anyone have
one to trade for a regular Link 10 (brand new) without output?
What kind of trade would you like to do ? Jon from www.grassrootsev.com has
some old stock , still in the box of the older e-meter with the rs232 port
and low batt alarm, ev software and a cd with a 500a shunt , 500v pre scaler
for xantrex all for $255 .
steve clunn
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
