EV Digest 4523
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: Inductive Throttle Position Sensor??
by "August Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: 9Electric Degreasing Advice Sought
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Looking for data logger for monitoring my Optima YT
by Martin Klingensmith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Steam-electric hybrid
by Thomas Peterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Russco heaters.
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
6) Re: A timer on PFC chargers
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Curtis Controllers in Pallet Jacks - EV controls
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Truncated digests
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Motor cooling
by Nick Viera <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Looking for data logger for monitoring my Optima YT
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Looking for data logger for monitoring my Optima YT
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Looking for data logger for monitoring my Optima YT
by "Sharon Hoopes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: Lenco/Tweco Cable Connectors
by Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) RE: Steam-electric hybrid
by "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Tires for Chinesy Scooter folks
by Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) EV on CBS, Hybrid safety on NBC Evening news tonight alert
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: 1965 Datsun Truck - Future Electric Vehicle
by "Noel P. Luneau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: 1965 Datsun Truck - Future Electric Vehicle
by "Noel P. Luneau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) GE motor on eBay
by Martin Klingensmith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Fwd: Re: Zagato Zele Elcar info needed
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Electric Vehicle Help
by Rex Allison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: GE motor on eBay
by "Sharon Hoopes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: Electric Vehicle Help
by "Sharon Hoopes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: GE motor on eBay
by Martin Klingensmith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Electric Vehicle Help
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: GE motor on eBay
by "Sharon Hoopes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: GE motor on eBay
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Electric Vehicle Help
by Martin Klingensmith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Electric Vehicle Help
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: Motor cooling
by "Landon Bills" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Mark,
I always thought the PB-6 was a 25K pot that was using the first 20% or
so of the rotation, but you made me open the one I have and actually
measure it. Well, what do you know; it's actually a special pot that IS
5K over that small angle! If I can't find an inductive sensor, I'll use
it. Thanks!
I'd really like to find an inductive sensor if I can, then I wouldn't
have to replace it when it gets noisy again.
August
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Subject: Re: Inductive Throttle Position Sensor??
August Johnson wrote:
Does anyone know of an
> Inductive Sensor that will work with this Brusa AMC-300 controller?
> The PB-6 is a referred to as a "potbox" becuase it contains a
> potentiometer
Mark
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Rice<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 7:23 AM
Subject: Re: 9Electric Degreasing Advice Sought
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
To: <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2005 9:48 PM
Subject: RE: 9Electric Degreasing Advice Sought
> This is an extreme measure, but stop by your dollar
> store and get some oven cleaner. Make sure you rinse
> it off really good since it is very corrosive, but it
> does a really nice job of cleaning up the nasty stuff.
> Rod
>
> --- Roger Stockton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
>
> > Ryan Stotts [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >
> > > Or try this stuff:
> > >
> > > http://www.simplegreen.com/<http://www.simplegreen.com/>
> >
> > If you can't get the tranny to a steam cleaner,
> > definitely give the
> > Simple Green a try. Not only is it remarkably
> > effective, but it is also
> > environmentally friendly.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Roger.
> >
> > Hi All;
After you have done all that, it's cleaned off so there isn't caked
greease. tape up all the openings good and sandblast it clean! It is very
gratifying to see the alumunun clean up shiny! After doing it all, get some
engine enamal from, say , NAPA in handy spray cans. One will do it! They
look BEAUTIFUL in shiny Ford Blue or Chevy orange or somebody elses dark
green. Now put it tohether after painting up the motor, too. I painted the
motor black, the adapter plate orange and the tranny Ford blue. so I can
say, at show an' tell, that that everything right of the orange plate is
stock VW.
Just a thought.
Seeya
Bob
>
Paint, that works good, is Rust-Oleum Appliance EPOXY Ultra-Hard Enamel in
spray cans. You do not need any primer. The colors available, depends on the
store you go to.
I used black on all the suspensions, brakes, drive line, rear axle, motor in
very shiny gloss black that you can see you self in. It has very good filling
over rough areas.
In between the black componets, I used stainless color over the aluminum
adapter plates, drive lines, accessory drive units, inverter alternator units
and aluminum aluminum chassic boxes. The fiberglass boxes and battery charger
compartments are done in white epoxy.
This paint is fantastic, I went to a car show, where a hot rod was painted
with this paint to a mirror finish. Everybody thought it was done by a custom
paint shop and hours of color sanding.
Roland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Danny Miller wrote:
Some thoughts:
Be a lot better if you lose the BASIC Stamp. Those things are just
ridiculous reimplementations of PICs with a load of marketing behind
them.
You can replace the external meter with something going through the
uC, then there's more information available to the code. Reading that
shunt is not too hard.
Can't a lot of those relays can be replaced with mosfets?
Danny
BASIC stamps are fine for something that doesn't require high speed that
will not be mass produced. You have to remember that relays are
/isolated/. Finding an inexpensive way to switch 30A with a few m-ohms
resistance is not an easy task. Relays are such a mature technology that
they are quite reliable as well. They are worth consideration when you
don't need fast switching and you need the isolation.
--
Martin Klingensmith
http://wwia.org/
http://nnytech.net/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hy all,
My theory presented to the government in the stripper well restitution
program, is combining the Baker electric with the Stanley Steamer. Of
course they said it was "unfeaseable". Fireing the boiler with alcohol
or other biomas eliminates dependence on imported oil. The use of a
small ice using natural gas does the same thing. Of course this could
hurt big oil.
The Feds are trying to prove I'm a fruad in recieving my V.A.
compensation. My doctor said they are crazy I couldn't fake the X-rays
and MRI's. And they completely disregaurded a doctors report that they
had contracted, Dr Joyce Oats, of Las Vegas. Also see www.patsypeterson.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I also have a RUSSCO controller. Worked great. I just need to refurbish the
car and see if it will still run after several years of being parked.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes if you have a grid fail,. the chargers reset and restart. But.. if you
have a AGM and it's charged, and the timer is set for a 15 minute hold
time..
You basicly have Zero risk of a runaway, and another 15 minutes at 14.8 and
.1 amps... isn't going to hurt much anyways.
Clearly... with long time outs and a different chemistry you have a
potential to get into trouble.
A mechanical timer the locks out at the end is a real plus. Having a system
that won't restart...unless it's told to... is a must if your pack can't
stand another time out cycle.
Do we need a battery backed charger data processor???
sounds like a Lot of expense to me.
Mechanical timer.... I am not really interested in the feature.
The only cheap thing a charger can do is if it looses grid... to shut off
and not come back on and deliver power.... OK that can be arainged.
Or just have it come back on, and trickle charge again...also not a really
bad thing. On lead Acids in good shape....
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Bohm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2005 6:10 PM
Subject: Re: A timer on PFC chargers
> Hi Victor and all:
>
> >
> > Will the charger and its timer reset and initiate another full
> > cycle? I guess it will, just as when you cycle the power switch.
> > It has no way of knowing if that reset was user's request or the
> > power failure.
> >
> > I guess not too good for a topped off batteries...
>
>
> This could be very different for various types of batteries, but for the
> Exide Orbitals I'm using, this doesn't seem to be a problem with a
> PFC-20. Yes, the timer does reset if you turn the power off and then
> back on (i.e. briefly). But if you watch the current level on the
> e-meter, the current tapers off to very little - less than an amp - as
> the batteries get "full". So as I see it (Rich or others, correct me if
> I'm wrong), you could really leave the charger on all night and it would
> just leave the batteries in basically a float charge. The PFC's keep
> the current at whatever level necessary to maintain the set voltage
> (14.4V per battery in my case), not to exceed the current level set on
> the "current" knob.
>
> Rudman Regs give a lot of peace of mind too. I don't worry about things
> too much with the Regs+PFC charger configuration.
>
> -Ryan
>
> --
> - EV Source -
> Zillas, PFC Chargers, and Netgain WarP motors at great prices!
> E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Clearly, engineers that never
> drove an EV or had one of their own worked on this
> 'design'. Who in their right
> mind would
> make an on-road EV motor controller that generates
> such a loud squeal through
> the motor, and think it would be acceptable?
>
> See Ya.....John Wayland
Steve Post at Curtis designed many of their controls
during the 1221 and 1231 time frame.
Steve had an EV volkswagon bug.
My bet is they weren't given much time to design the
EV controls and much of the work was done on the side.
Demanding golf cart, forklift and industrial vehicle
customers that pay the bills probably took precedance
over the on road EV work. At least that's how it was
when I worked at GE-EVS.
Rod
--- John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello to All,
>
> STEVE CLUNN wrote:
>
> > John Wayland wrote:
> >
> > > Curtis makes a lot of fine controllers and
> they're in use in everything
> > from
> > > forklifts to pallet jacks, to on road EVs, and
> most all deliver silent
> > > reliable operation. The Curtis model 1221C and
> 1231C controllers don't
> > > come close to matching other more advanced
> controllers.
> >
> > John what happens when a Curtis blows in one of
> these forklifts or jacks ,
> > do they go full on and take the rider for a ride ,
> funny what we get use to
> > , haven't had one of those rides for a while :-)
>
> The Curtis controllers in my work world of
> forklifts, pallet jacks, etc., are
> very nice, very reliable controllers. When they do
> fail, most often they just
> drop out either a line contactor or a forward -
> reverse contactor set....no
> drama, no runaway pallet jack. With exception to
> some of the older Curtis
> controllers used in Crown PE3500 model rider pallets
> that make a not too
> offensive SCR - like moan or growl, most all of the
> newer Curtis controllers
> are silent and feature filled. Their newest pallet
> jack controller is used in
> the Crown PE4000 series rider type, the model that
> replaced the venerable
> PE3500 series. This controller is dead silent and is
> a sep ex type controller.
> With the plug-in handset, you can talk to the
> controller, set all sorts of
> stuff, and see the results on a very legible
> display...it's sort of Zilla like
> in regards to programming options, but certainly not
> in terms of power :-) The
> controller is state of the art, does either plugging
> or regen, and is beautiful
> in build quality.
>
> I've got mostly good things to say about the Curtis
> controllers in general,
> it's just those miserable 1221C and 1231C street EV
> controllers they make that
> get me going....geesh, what an awful design!
> Clearly, engineers that never
> drove an EV or had one of their own worked on this
> 'design'. Who in their right
> mind would
> make an on-road EV motor controller that generates
> such a loud squeal through
> the motor, and think it would be acceptable?
>
> See Ya.....John Wayland
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you are on digest mode and are having problems with the digest appearing
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Send the following command to the listserver:
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I realize that plain text format may not be what you want. If that's the
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Let me know how this works out.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
I wrote:
I'm pretty sure I have some better pictures of the fan assembly in my
motor... if I can find them I'll add them to Photo Gallery 4.3
I found a whole folder of photos from my recent motor work that somehow
never made it online. I've added them to my Photo Gallery at:
http://www.driveev.com/jeepev/photos/pgallery4_3.php
Some good shots showing the motor's internal fan are:
http://www.driveev.com/jeepev/photos/pg4_3pics/motorbearings/bearingless2.jpg
http://www.driveev.com/jeepev/photos/pg4_3pics/motorinst/driveend2.jpg
http://www.driveev.com/jeepev/photos/pg4_3pics/motorinst/armature1.jpg
Hope that helps!
--
-Nick
http://Go.DriveEV.com/
1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
---------------------------
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Danny Miller wrote:
>
> Some thoughts [on my Battery Balancer]:
> Be a lot better if you lose the BASIC Stamp. Those things are
> just ridiculous reimplementations of PICs with a load of marketing
> behind them.
>
> You can replace the external meter with something going through
> the uC, then there's more information available to the code.
> Reading that shunt is not too hard.
>
> Can't a lot of those relays can be replaced with mosfets?
Sure! Be my guest! Modify it any way you like. That's why I published
all the schematics and parts lists. Anyone can build it and modify it to
their heart's content.
I designed it the way it is because I could buy all the parts
preassembled, pretested, and working. It was optimized for someone who
wants to build just one for his own use -- not for cheap mass
production.
The BASIC stamp costs more than building your own computer from scratch;
but it all comes in one box, software and all, for $100. There is tons
of information for beginners. You can program it even if you've never
written any software before.
The multimeter is prebuilt, UL listed, and guaranteed isolation to
1500v. It has all the noise filtering and averaging in place, so you
don't need to do it in software. It isn't modified in any way, so you
can still use it when you need a meter (everyone needs a good multimeter
anyway :-)
I used relays because they have superb isolation, negligible "on"
resistance, and handle a lot of current (I used 30-amp relays). They
switch slower than solid-state switches, but cost a lot less. In theory
they could wear out, but you don't need to switch them that fast. There
turn out to be very few times that a balancer needs to switch quickly.
It *knows* which battery is the weakest and goes dead or reaches full
first.
The number of people who are capable of designing their own balancer is
very small. The number of them who will actually build it, and get it
working is smaller still! I was just trying to provide a design that has
a much higher chance for success (easier to build by people with less
experience).
--
Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has! -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sharon Hoopes wrote:
> Can I ask The Price of these "Battery Balancer"
The first one cost me about $1500. About 10 were built, and the price
dropped with each successive one. If I build another batch, they will
probably be in the $500-$1000 range as kits.
Note that this system is a combined balancer, charger and DC/DC
converter; not just a monitor. It measures each battery voltage, and
CHARGES them individually as needed to keep them all in balance.
This is NOT a commercial project! I'm just providing the information on
what I've built for myself, so others can do the same.
--
Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has! -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thank you...............Bill
Bill & Sharon Hoopes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [Original Message]
> From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Date: 7/23/2005 2:44:26 PM
> Subject: Re: Looking for data logger for monitoring my Optima YT
>
> Sharon Hoopes wrote:
> > Can I ask The Price of these "Battery Balancer"
>
> The first one cost me about $1500. About 10 were built, and the price
> dropped with each successive one. If I build another batch, they will
> probably be in the $500-$1000 range as kits.
>
> Note that this system is a combined balancer, charger and DC/DC
> converter; not just a monitor. It measures each battery voltage, and
> CHARGES them individually as needed to keep them all in balance.
>
> This is NOT a commercial project! I'm just providing the information on
> what I've built for myself, so others can do the same.
> --
> Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
> citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
> has! -- Margaret Mead
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So cool
But you didn't say... go-k sounds like rough service. D'ya beef the
cable connectors w/tape or?
Just to answer orig comment
:)
Lock
Toronto
--- "Brown, Jay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Rush,
>
> I use these on my 48 volt go-kart with a 400amp Alltrax and they work
> great. Very easy to break the pack with these. They are rated at
> 600V and have never ever been even warm to the touch. Even after
> running full out and sending enough juice to my first Etek to melt
> it. They are very beefy.
>
> Jay Brown
> Sugar Land, Texas
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Rush
> Sent: Sat 7/23/2005 10:23 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Cc:
> Subject: Lenco/Tweco Cable Connectors
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> Are Lenco/Tweco Cable Connectors acceptable
> for battery pack cable connectors? I would use them
> in place of Anderson connectors.
>
> At
>
http://www.weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF:OR:A2::PA
> (scroll almost down to the bottom of the page) for 2/0 wire they are
> rated at 350 amp capacity, no voltage but I suppose since they are
> connected to welding wire they are probably rated at 600 vdc also.
>
> They are a 1/4 twist turn to lock and so it would probably
> be a good idea to keep them locked, with tape or some mech method.
> Rush
> Tucson AZ
> www.ironandwood.org
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My son is an attorney experienced in a very narrow field of the Law called
"Spoliation". "Spoliation" means that the item in question was removed
prior to revealing the evidence.
For example, a tractor that went down into a ditch and caused a man to be
gravely injured was nowhere to be found. Was it in good condition, was it
maintained properly, was it modified, did it have non-standard parts, etc.?
IMHO Go to an attorney and ask about 'Spoliation".
(I may not have the spelling correct, but it is close enough for a lookup)
stU
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Thomas Peterson
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 3:08 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Steam-electric hybrid
Hy all,
My theory presented to the government in the stripper well restitution
program, is combining the Baker electric with the Stanley Steamer. Of
course they said it was "unfeaseable". Fireing the boiler with alcohol
or other biomas eliminates dependence on imported oil. The use of a
small ice using natural gas does the same thing. Of course this could
hurt big oil.
The Feds are trying to prove I'm a fruad in recieving my V.A.
compensation. My doctor said they are crazy I couldn't fake the X-rays
and MRI's. And they completely disregaurded a doctors report that they
had contracted, Dr Joyce Oats, of Las Vegas. Also see www.patsypeterson.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks for mentioning this Bob
My 12" tires always suck. Fine for kids on their trikes I suppose.
Not so good for electric torque, or 25kph. I replace 3-4 back (driven)
tires for every front...
I'm still looking for quality rubber to squeeze on to... 12 1/2"?
The folks at Maxxis seem to have "good" rubber at 16":
http://www.maxxistires.com/
That's all, tks
Lock
Toronto
--- Bob Rice <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> But I have killed tires early on with the
> high pressure, bubbles, tread separation, the Michelin Disease,
> that's what THEY used to do on my GAS cars,
> tire wouldn't be round anymore.
> You Chinesy Scooter folks know about that issue.
> OK onto what next?
> Seeya at Woodburn
> Bob
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All,
On the CBS Evening news tonight is a favorable
piece on a guy with an old Civic EV made from used
parts he found around his area.
While it was nicely done, the Civic only had 6
T105's it looked like and said a 2.5hp motor from a
forklift. They said it went 35mph which was probably
true and went 100 miles which most diffenently wasn't
but sounded good to most reg people.
It was very favorable and presented in a very good
light so worthwhile overall. Maybe someone could
contact the reporter to show him what real EV's can do
like Wayland's, ect.
On NBC which I only seen part of was a story on
high voltage dangers to rescue workers from Hybrid
batt packs which seemed to say it was very dangerous
to them, a lot more than in reality.
Like I said I only seen the last part of it as
both the stories were the last ones on the news
programs at the same time.
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Found this on the web - not sure if it has been sold yet. I think it's
an L320.
------------------
6-05-05...FOR SALE - Here is a recent shot with the shell on it. I
have replaced all brakes, brake hoses, slave cylinder, carb, muffler,
tailpipe. Interior to include seat, door panels, headliner, carpet,
paint electric fuel pump, plugs, wires, coil, cap etc... It looks as if
the top half of the engine had been reworked. The trans looks rebuilt
as well. The engine need to be rebuilt in my opinion, but as I am
moving and need to sell ASAP... ALl numbers match. I am into this
cutie for about 2K.. But know I will not get anywhere near that as it is
not running presently. Just want a fair price and it to go to someone
whoe cares about these type of vehicles. My phone number is
408-298-3379. Ralph
http://www.manxsr.com/images/Datsun%20other/ralph_C_fs.jpg
-----------------------
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of IMAP | OE
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 11:27 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: 1965 Datsun Truck - Future Electric Vehicle
I think the gentleman who started this thread should sell (give?) that
pristine pickup to me and buy this one instead. Given that a special
bed would be needed for the battery rack(s) and that the ICE is not
needed, may be a useful approach.
http://tinyurl.com/7b6t7
Jay
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 2:19 PM
Subject: Re: 1965 Datsun Truck - Future Electric Vehicle
>
> On Jul 22, 2005, at 7:52 PM, Joe Strubhar wrote:
>
> > I would definitely NOT use an 8" motor - this truck is too heavy for
> > an 8",
> > IMO.
> > I have a 1978 Datsun Kingcab, and use a 9" ADC motor with a Kodiak
(no
> > longer available?) controller and a Russco charger for 20 Trojan
> > T-105's.
>
> Judging from the Pictures I have found you have a larger Datsun than
> the little '65. The 320 series weighs about the same as my Rabbit
> Pickup (mine listed at 1998lbs, the Datsun was quoted online at
> 2085lbs.) Mine did just fine with a Prestolite MTC-4002 motor, similar
> in continuous power handling to the ADC 8 inch. Mine had to pack
around
> 1300lbs of batteries.
>
> Paul "neon" G.
>
>
This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential and privileged
information. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender
immediately by return e-mail, delete this e-mail and destroy any copies. Any
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There is an NL320 for sales as well.
http://www.manxsr.com/datsun_classified.htm
Noel
This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential and privileged
information. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender
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distribution or use of this information by a person other than the intended
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--- Begin Message ---
Found this on eBay, I know nothing about it other than it looks like
something you guys & gals may be interested in [GE DC motor "4HP"]
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7531805944&category=26226&rd=1>
--
Martin Klingensmith
http://wwia.org/
http://nnytech.net/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This is from someone not on the list. Please respond directly to him if
you can help.
I have picked up a Zagato Zele (Elcar). I'm needing to find a source for a
shop manual for this little critter. The last thing I want to do is hook
something up wrong... It doesn't have any batteries in it. What would you
suggest?
Thanks,
Landen Schooler
Carlisle, Iowa
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Shari Prange
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
I recently purchased a 1996 Solectria Force that was
used at a NJ utility then refurbished by Solectria and
sold to a Californian then to me. Well it hadn't been
registered in California yet so I went to the DMV and
this is where the drama began.
I had the vehicle inspected and the inspector agreed
that it was an Electric Vehicle so he marked "E" on
the form and wrote a note that the vehicle was zero
emissions. No problem.
Well at the Santa Clara DMV counter they refused to
submit the paperwork because the odometer was under
7500 miles. There is a law in California to prevent
New Out Of State Cars that don't meet California
Emission to come into the state. I all but pleaded
with the DMV manager that an EV by common sense should
exceed California Emission Standards. So they refused
to submit my paper work.
Now I have a letter from the State DMV stating the
following:
The vehicle does not meet the California Health &
Safety code 43150 through 43156. So according to
California Vehicle Code 4750 they are refusing to
register or title the vehicle and I have to remove it
from the State.
I have 30 days to respond. Does anyone know how I
should approach this?
Thank you,
Rex Allison
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
4hp!!! This Will not work in a ev, you need 20hp or more..........Bill
Bill & Sharon Hoopes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [Original Message]
> From: Martin Klingensmith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Date: 7/23/2005 5:22:36 PM
> Subject: GE motor on eBay
>
> Found this on eBay, I know nothing about it other than it looks like
> something you guys & gals may be interested in [GE DC motor "4HP"]
>
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7531805944&category=2622
6&rd=1>
>
> --
> Martin Klingensmith
> http://wwia.org/
> http://nnytech.net/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I had a similar problem with my EV's that I converted from gas. What a
dilema. I finally got the idea of going to another DMV office. you might
have to do that two or three times before you find the right party. Good
luck............Bill
Bill & Sharon Hoopes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [Original Message]
> From: Rex Allison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Date: 7/23/2005 5:41:09 PM
> Subject: Electric Vehicle Help
>
> Hi,
> I recently purchased a 1996 Solectria Force that was
> used at a NJ utility then refurbished by Solectria and
> sold to a Californian then to me. Well it hadn't been
> registered in California yet so I went to the DMV and
> this is where the drama began.
> I had the vehicle inspected and the inspector agreed
> that it was an Electric Vehicle so he marked "E" on
> the form and wrote a note that the vehicle was zero
> emissions. No problem.
> Well at the Santa Clara DMV counter they refused to
> submit the paperwork because the odometer was under
> 7500 miles. There is a law in California to prevent
> New Out Of State Cars that don't meet California
> Emission to come into the state. I all but pleaded
> with the DMV manager that an EV by common sense should
> exceed California Emission Standards. So they refused
> to submit my paper work.
> Now I have a letter from the State DMV stating the
> following:
> The vehicle does not meet the California Health &
> Safety code 43150 through 43156. So according to
> California Vehicle Code 4750 they are refusing to
> register or title the vehicle and I have to remove it
> from the State.
> I have 30 days to respond. Does anyone know how I
> should approach this?
> Thank you,
> Rex Allison
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________
> Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sharon Hoopes wrote:
4hp!!! This Will not work in a ev, you need 20hp or more..........Bill
Bill & Sharon Hoopes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
No, but it would certainly work well for a riding lawn mower which is
also an EV by no stretch of imagination
:)
--
Martin Klingensmith
http://wwia.org/
http://nnytech.net/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Get on the phone to Sacramento and get if clarified.
If that doesn't work hook a drill to the odometer.....
Did I say that?
Gadget
--- Rex Allison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi,
> I recently purchased a 1996 Solectria Force that was
> used at a NJ utility then refurbished by Solectria
> and
> sold to a Californian then to me. Well it hadn't
> been
> registered in California yet so I went to the DMV
> and
> this is where the drama began.
> I had the vehicle inspected and the inspector agreed
> that it was an Electric Vehicle so he marked "E" on
> the form and wrote a note that the vehicle was zero
> emissions. No problem.
> Well at the Santa Clara DMV counter they refused to
> submit the paperwork because the odometer was under
> 7500 miles. There is a law in California to prevent
> New Out Of State Cars that don't meet California
> Emission to come into the state. I all but pleaded
> with the DMV manager that an EV by common sense
> should
> exceed California Emission Standards. So they
> refused
> to submit my paper work.
> Now I have a letter from the State DMV stating the
> following:
> The vehicle does not meet the California Health &
> Safety code 43150 through 43156. So according to
> California Vehicle Code 4750 they are refusing to
> register or title the vehicle and I have to remove
> it
> from the State.
> I have 30 days to respond. Does anyone know how I
> should approach this?
> Thank you,
> Rex Allison
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________
> Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
>
>
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
OOOOOOOooooooookkkkkkkaaaaaaa
Bill & Sharon Hoopes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [Original Message]
> From: Martin Klingensmith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Date: 7/23/2005 5:53:10 PM
> Subject: Re: GE motor on eBay
>
> Sharon Hoopes wrote:
>
> >4hp!!! This Will not work in a ev, you need 20hp or more..........Bill
> >
> >Bill & Sharon Hoopes
> >[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> No, but it would certainly work well for a riding lawn mower which is
> also an EV by no stretch of imagination
> :)
>
> --
> Martin Klingensmith
> http://wwia.org/
> http://nnytech.net/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This is almost the same size motor I have on my EM and
it is very capable. It's rated at 4.15 hp.
Gadget
--- Sharon Hoopes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> OOOOOOOooooooookkkkkkkaaaaaaa
>
> Bill & Sharon Hoopes
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Martin Klingensmith
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Date: 7/23/2005 5:53:10 PM
> > Subject: Re: GE motor on eBay
> >
> > Sharon Hoopes wrote:
> >
> > >4hp!!! This Will not work in a ev, you need 20hp
> or more..........Bill
> > >
> > >Bill & Sharon Hoopes
> > >[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > No, but it would certainly work well for a riding
> lawn mower which is
> > also an EV by no stretch of imagination
> > :)
> >
> > --
> > Martin Klingensmith
> > http://wwia.org/
> > http://nnytech.net/
>
>
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rex Allison wrote:
Hi,
I recently purchased a 1996 Solectria Force that was
used at a NJ utility then refurbished by Solectria and
sold to a Californian then to me. Well it hadn't been
registered in California yet so I went to the DMV and
this is where the drama began.
I had the vehicle inspected and the inspector agreed
that it was an Electric Vehicle so he marked "E" on
the form and wrote a note that the vehicle was zero
emissions. No problem.
Well at the Santa Clara DMV counter they refused to
submit the paperwork because the odometer was under
7500 miles. There is a law in California to prevent
New Out Of State Cars that don't meet California
Emission to come into the state. I all but pleaded
with the DMV manager that an EV by common sense should
exceed California Emission Standards. So they refused
to submit my paper work.
I'm curious to know what their reason is for stating that it does not
meet emissions requirements?
This reminds me of when my dad got his truck re-registered in PA. They
made him get his S10 weighed because the lady refused to use the GVWR
value from the sticker on the inside of the door.
Sounds like more people who need to get a clue IMHO.
--
Martin Klingensmith
http://wwia.org/
http://nnytech.net/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How many miles under 7500?
Unscrew the speedometer link to the transmission and then put it on a drill and
run it up to 7500 +.
Or tell the inspector that you talked with the owner in NJ and he told you the
orig speedo was broken and they replaced it with an OEM speedometer unit and
that is why it only has xxxx miles on it.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rex Allison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 5:39 PM
Subject: Electric Vehicle Help
> Hi,
> I recently purchased a 1996 Solectria Force that was
> used at a NJ utility then refurbished by Solectria and
> sold to a Californian then to me. Well it hadn't been
> registered in California yet so I went to the DMV and
> this is where the drama began.
> I had the vehicle inspected and the inspector agreed
> that it was an Electric Vehicle so he marked "E" on
> the form and wrote a note that the vehicle was zero
> emissions. No problem.
> Well at the Santa Clara DMV counter they refused to
> submit the paperwork because the odometer was under
> 7500 miles. There is a law in California to prevent
> New Out Of State Cars that don't meet California
> Emission to come into the state. I all but pleaded
> with the DMV manager that an EV by common sense should
> exceed California Emission Standards. So they refused
> to submit my paper work.
> Now I have a letter from the State DMV stating the
> following:
> The vehicle does not meet the California Health &
> Safety code 43150 through 43156. So according to
> California Vehicle Code 4750 they are refusing to
> register or title the vehicle and I have to remove it
> from the State.
> I have 30 days to respond. Does anyone know how I
> should approach this?
> Thank you,
> Rex Allison
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________
> Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I do not know how noisy they are but on ebay some people sell those electric
"super chargers" for gas motors. They might be the way to go for cooling.
Landon <--- New to EV's =)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nick Viera" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: Motor cooling
> Hi,
>
> Danny Miller wrote:
> > So how do you keep dust, rain, etc out of the motor? Is the air intake
> > located inside the cab or behind an air filter?
>
> I guess that would depend on how you build your EV. My Jeep's motor is
> not yet protected from rain, etc. That is one of those things that I
> fear will eternally be on my to-do list.
>
> Though, I have done a small amount of driving in the rain, and a bit of
> driving on roads that are still wet/ have puddles. What I've noticed is
> that the motor doesn't get splashed/sprayed all that much.
>
> > I know heat has a seriously detrimental effect on motor power and
> > efficiency. How cool does the motor stay? I wonder if an external
> > cooling system might be justifiable.
>
> That depends on the conversion (the size motor you use relative to
> vehicle weight, aerodynamics, etc..)
>
> My experiences so far using a 9" ADC motor in a Jeep Cherokee haven't
> been good when it comes to motor cooling... and to sum things up I'm
> convinced that the 9" motor was the wrong choice to make for this
> vehicle (an 11" would've been much more appropriate). For now, I'm
> working on better cooling by using electric fans to force more air
> through the motor, which will help keep the motor cool when it is
> stopped or at lower speeds. I'll probably be using bilge blowers (as
> other EVDL members recommended) and see how they work.
>
> With that said, It seems that there are a lot of EV conversions out
> there that don't use any external cooling for their motors and work just
> fine.
>
> Just my 0.333 kWh
>
> --
> -Nick
> http://Go.DriveEV.com/
> 1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
> ---------------------------
>
--- End Message ---
