--- Begin Message ---
For any of those who are interested in touchscreens / car-puters... here's a
company I used to work for... they manufacture industrial computers and are
local to the Bay Area. The merchandise might be a little high in price, but the
form-factor is about right for automotive use, and the quality is pretty high.
I'm using one of their systems as a webserver... it draws 10Watts peak (5VDC
input) and is smaller than an internal CDROM drive yet has serial, video,
compact flash & RAM up to 512 MB max, and dual nics onboard... the only moving
part is a laptop hard drive I added.
Anyway, the site is www.aristaipc.com. Tell 'em Doug Martin sent you and you
can share some laughs (at my expense) with my former boss. Some interesting
stuff on the site at any rate...
-Doug
________________________________
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of David (Battery Boy) Hawkins
Sent: Tue 8/23/2005 6:51 PM
To: EV Discussion List
Subject: Re: Touch Screen Controller?
Sam and All,
Try driving a new Prius and using the touch screen to change the climate
temperature (which you CAN do from the steering wheel), then explain to the
cop that you were weaving in your wife's car because of that touch screen,
and not because you have beer on your breath... I'll bet that a Prius
driver somewhere has had an accident because of the touch screen.
Also, build the EV first, and the toys can be added later!
BB
>Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 13:51:22 -0500
>From: Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Touch Screen Controller?
>
>[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
>> Hey guys. I've been doing my research for my EV, and I am going to
>> use a home automation controller I've got to run everything (instead
>> of a bunch of switches). Its a grayscale touchscreen. It'll use RFID
>> to login (vs a key), and can control the contactors, automatic climate
>> control (or manual, with temp sensor in the cabin), control direction,
>> open doors, control windows, show status of various items, talk to
>> you, and whatever else can be controlled with a relay.
>
>Touch screens are cool and I've used my fair share of them, but in a car
>it is often important to be able to operate controls without looking
>away from the road. Consider moving the most needed controls to
>physical switches or adding touch and audible cues to the system.
>
>Mark
>
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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------_=_NextPart_001_01C5A877.8FE86042"
Subject: RE: Touch Screen Controller? - vendor site
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2005 23:46:31 -0700
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
X-MS-Has-Attach:
X-MS-TNEF-Correlator: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Thread-Topic: Touch Screen Controller? - vendor site
Thread-Index: AcWoa4ofInL6b9/3SbuIC+6OfbqbqgACoeR8
From: "Doug Martin--
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 11:27:04 +0100
From: Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Russco vs Zivan vs PFC
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On 8/23/05, Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Evan Tuer wrote:
>
> > something like the Magnacharger, where the whole car is electrically
> > isolated from the grid.
>
> And how does it do that? Or how is it wired differently? What's
> different about it compared to other chargers?
The magnecharger is special, the paddle that connects to the car is
half of a high-frequency transformer - there is no ohmic connection at
all, only a magnetic one. Of course, this requires an expensive
off-board charging station, and matching equipment on the car.
However, it *is* very safe; even given fault conditions, there's no
way that the EV-1's body can become unsafe to touch. So, you can see
why the American car companies felt they needed to use it :)
--
EVan
http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 11:45:09 +0100
From: Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Russco vs Zivan vs PFC
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On 8/24/05, Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Ryan Stotts wrote:
> > Now what is the difference between the current model of "unisolated"
> > chargers and the model that might be released that is supposedly
> > isolated? How are the two chargers different? How will they be
> > installed differently?
>
> A non-isolated charger (K&W, Russco, PFC-xx) has a direct path from the
> AC powerline to its DC output. So if you touch one of its outputs (i.e.
> any battery terminal) and ground, you get a shock. If your skin
> resistance is low enough, you die!
>
> You can prevent this by plugging such a charger into a GFCI-protected
> outlet. The GFCI measures the leakage current to ground, and if it
> exceeds about 5ma (0.005 amps) it shuts off the AC power. 5ma is enough
> to give you a nasty shock, and make you jump convulsively; but it's not
> enough to kill a normal healthy person.
I'd like to mention a small detail that sometimes gets overlooked with
GFCI / RCD type breakers. A lot of people rely on these and trust
that they will never recieve a shock greater than 5 / 20 / 30mA,
depending on the type, and that being generally healthy, they're not
in any danger.
However, whilst the breaker may trip at 6mA of leakage current,
there's no guarantee that the current will be this small. In fact, it
could be up to several hundred mA depending on your skin's resistance,
and only the *duration* of the shock is limited by the RCD. The
tripping time is typically something like 40ms, and such a shock for
this length of time can definitely kill you.
--
EVan
http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 08:12:04 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Battery Question / Pricing
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Lee / All,
I am located in Orlando, Fl (for location).
Underneath the car is 8 inches tall, 42 inches wide and 18 inches front to back
(there are AC lines in the middle). I do hope to pick up some space near the
tranmission (possibly 14 inches deep, 20 inches tall, 36 inches wide),
(tranmission is not yet here)
With the Optimas, I lose 1.5 inches of ground clearance to the car (bringing
the number down to 6 inches of ground clearance). Around the AC lines, I think
I can fit 6 underneath. The Trojans are way too tall for underneath. I might be
able to fit the 12 volt trojans around the tranmission area if that is the
path. (Can the optimas be mounted on their side?)
Peacebay sent me info on their 80AH NIMH ($69 / per pack), resulting in $2000
for 80AH at 48 volts. It is rated for 400 Amp max discharge (the same as my
controller). (130 pound pack)
Everspring has Cr-F-Li also at $2000 for 90 AH (under 100 pounds). However,
they can only handle 270 Amps ( I would have to move to 200Amp batteries,
resulting in $4000)
Since the empty car is 1000 lbs, I am trying to keep weight down. I think it
can handle the 400 pounds of the optimas.
NIMH is a little over twice the lead price (for the same usable capacity), and
1/2 the weight. Are there other configurations that I should consider?
Thank you,
Peter
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2005 20:45:19 -0700
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Battery question / pricing
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Peter wrote:
> I am working on the EV Smart conversion... looking for daily usable
> 80-100 AH @ 48Volts...
Could you give us the battery box dimensions, and an estimate of how
much the batteries can weigh? That would make it a lot easier to provide
ideas that could fit.
Where are you located? It's hard for others to guess at what batteries
area available and their prices without knowing your location.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 05:18:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Michaela's choice, Re: Battery design
To: [email protected]
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Hi Michaela, Victor and All,
Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Michaela Merz wrote:
> Hey Jerry and All:
>
> Yes, I bought the truck. And yes, since we are ranchers, we need a truck.
Michaela, a truck is your best choice under circumstances.
I was just trying to find out what her goals really wwere to minimise
her costs and increase her chance of a sucessful EV. But as the choice has been
made and I now know what her budget is, I have no problem with it.
Though a lot can be said for using a small, more aero EV and a
trailer, she has chosen the S10 so let's make it the best we can.
> Back to the original question:
>
> I would think the S-10 needs about 350 Wh, 400 Wh or maybe 450 Wh to go 60
> Mph - or about 4 KW/h to 4.5 KW/h for 10 Miles - so ,
An EV takes Watts to move at certain speed, not Wh.
Wh are needed to move certain distance at some speed.
Your truck may require 20...25 kW to move at 60 mph on flat.
Now, to do it for an hour will take 20...25 kWh accordingly.
That's a little high Victor with a reasonable amount of aero,
rolling drag reduction she should do.
Since she wants to go the higher dollar route, the newer S-10 makes
sense and if being built for a 20 yr life EV, it's worth putting some good
money in it.
But the ni-cads are not that good with a heavy vehicle like this
with a DC drive system so a better route for her would be your AC drive system
with it's higher eff, regen and set up for ni-cads. The reason is with it she
can lower the need for the more expensive batteries and increase their life
while still getting the same range which somewhat overcome the higher cost of
your drive..
Also with the lighter weight of the ni-cads will allow her some
payload as Rush said, his was turning into a way to carry lead ;^))
So now knowing more of what she wants, I'd suggest Victor's Seimens AC
controller, motor, charger as the best way for her to go to reach the goals she
has set out. Surprised Victor?
Along with that some serious aero, rolling drag and weight reduction to
enhance her range, performance, as she will have an excellent EV that will last
her 20 yrs and over that time, save more than her costs just in gas savings
even with the higher initial costs. Especially with how gas prices will rise
over the time she owns it and there is sure to be shortages of gas which will
mean she can still get around while other have to cut way back on driving may
even save twice the cost of gas over 20 yrs.
And yes Michaela, you will get a fair amount more real kwhrs, range
from a ni-cad pack from it's lower weight, stiffer voltage, much better once
the temps get below 60F and ability to more deeply discharge them so the
smaller pack should get more range than the larger amphr lead pack would. How
far though will be determinded by your driving style, speed, drag reductions
you do. If you need more range with Victor's drive, you can just add more batts
and some software uploads I believe.
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
>
> Anybody did an S-10 with Nicads before? Somebody (commercially) willing
> and able to provide technology, batteries and charger?
>
> mm.
>
I can provide the charger for your future NiCDs along with the
drive system.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
---------------------------------
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 05:38:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: 2 step contactor - starting an etek
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
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Hi Mark and All,
I'd go buy a golf cart resistor pack, mount which is only
about $15 and have a choice of 3 or series/parallel combo of them though I'd
thing just the thinnest one would do what you want. The mount is worth it as
it's rather hard to find good material the is an insulater and stand the heat
safely.
Otherwise find some SS of the right cross sectional area wire
or sheet and make a resistor from it as Joe mentioned. You could use many
strands of SS safety wire, start with 20 or so about 6-12" long and work from
there.
I don't thing your 1 ohm resistor idea will survive.
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
Bruce Bailey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Mark - At present, how is power applied to the motor? By way of a
controller, simply a contactor or something else? - Bruce Bailey
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Mark Hastings
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 7:20 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: 2 step contactor - starting an etek
I found a message about starting a treadmill motor first with a 1ohm
resistor and then switching on the main contactor to short out the resistor
to be a softer start on the motor.
I have an etek in my garden tractor and would like to do the same. It is
wired at 43.2 volts. I have a bunch of 10 watt resistors that are one ohm so
they are free.
I was thinking of paralleling two pairs in series which would in my head
give me a 40 watt 1 ohm resistor? It would only be on for a second but is 1
ohm a good value for starting an etek at this voltage?
Thanks,
Mark Hastings
---------------------------------
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Alltrax Controller
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 22:39:44 +1000
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Hi there,
You said that you could interface the Alltrax 7245 controller to the Palm
unit? Is the interface similar to the pc version. I was also wondering, i
have a palm pilot and palm tungsten e as well with USB interface. Could that
interface you were working on go the the USB of the tungsten E, that would
be great as the screen is nice a coloured and bright.
Cheers p.s I really want to learn how to hack these things. If you got any
tips or pointers for newbies like me, please let me know.
Cheers
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 13:51:49 +0100
From: Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Battery calculation, NiCad vs. LeadAcid
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On 8/24/05, Michaela Merz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hello Everybody:
>
> I have started to do some basic calculations on my new S-10 project. Based
> on the experiences with my current Nissan pickup, I have some figures to
> work with.
>
> Trojan T-125, 22 batteries, 130 Ah/C1
>
> Available energy: 17 Kw (Voltage sag not calculated)
> Weight: 660 Kg (1455 pounds)
> Range at 60 Mph: About 35 Miles
>
> Saft Nicad STM 5-100 100 AH/C3
> Available energy: 14.4 Kw (Voltage sag not calculated)
> Weight: 286 Kg (631 pounds)
^^^^^^ Be careful - kW is a measurement of power, not energy.
> I don't know the C/1 value for those Safts, but I can save 800 pounds of
> weight by losing about 3 Kw of available energy. Question is, how can I
> set the weight loss in relation to the loss of Kws?
That's about 22 x 100MREs. With a current limit of 180A, you will
have more like 22kW of power, and around 15kWh of stored energy.
With only 22kW in a heavy truck, the acceleration will be pretty poor
and keeping up with 55mph traffic would be "flat out". Also the range
won't be very impressive.
I would recommend more batteries (meaning a higher system voltage), or
use the higher capacity 140 or 180AH modules.
Of course, it depends on what your requirements and budget is... what is it? :)
--
EVan
http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted.
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 08:00:59 -0500
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This is starting to sound like a meter I'm going to have to have :-)
>>
>> There is no "prescaler" in my case, it takes 15-500V directly and
>> integrated isolated DC-DC converter supplies logic with power
>> off of the pack voltage. Takes 1...5 mA from the pack.
>>
You said wish list , soooo I'm very use to thinking in 12v's , like after
10 years of watching 15v to 10.5 , I have a few different ev with different
voltages but what I'd like to see for voltage on the whole pack would be the
numbers I'm use to seeing.
>> > 4) Isolated digital data output port.
>>
>> Everyone wants it! Done, but semultaneous logging onto SD card
>> makes this not so relevant.
>>
Saw going to ask for this , so could pull the card out and put it in the
home comupter and see the whole charge , discharge cycle ?
>> done. 2 PWM outputs are user assignable to any value they want
>> analog gauge to display (volts, amps, Ah, Wh, watts, temp, etc).
>>
nice . got to have one
Steve Clunn
From: Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery calculation, NiCad vs. LeadAcid
To: [email protected]
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 06:11:12 -0700 (PDT)
MIME-Version: 1.0
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Michaela,
On the SAFTs, the voltage drop will be about 7 volts per 100 amps.
Also, do your calculations with a 250 amp limit. SAFTs don't like
to experience current draws more than 250 amps. This may mean that
you need more modules for a higher voltage pack to get the power
you want.
Ralph
Michaela Merz writes:
>
>
> Hello Everybody:
>
> I have started to do some basic calculations on my new S-10 project. Based
> on the experiences with my current Nissan pickup, I have some figures to
> work with.
>
> Trojan T-125, 22 batteries, 130 Ah/C1
>
> Available energy: 17 Kw (Voltage sag not calculated)
> Weight: 660 Kg (1455 pounds)
> Range at 60 Mph: About 35 Miles
>
> Saft Nicad STM 5-100 100 AH/C3
> Available energy: 14.4 Kw (Voltage sag not calculated)
> Weight: 286 Kg (631 pounds)
>
> I don't know the C/1 value for those Safts, but I can save 800 pounds of
> weight by losing about 3 Kw of available energy. Question is, how can I
> set the weight loss in relation to the loss of Kws? And, NiCads don't
> experience that kind of voltage drop as i.e. those Trojans. If I would
> change the Trojans against Safts .. would I win or lose range?
>
> mm.
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 09:33:27 -0400
From: Cwarman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: Power Steering MR2
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
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Off hand,
Does anyone have one of the Toyota MR2 Electric pumps being used for
powersteering ? Can you give the Year of the cars this was on and if
possible a part number if you know it ?
Cwarman
>
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 09:36:06 -0400
From: Cwarman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Netgain Warp Dimensions
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Speaking of which , ive read that the WarP 9in DC motor is of the same
dimensions as the ADC9 motor, so im assuming that the motor mounts in
the kits that places like EvAmerica and Canev would fit the Warp9 ?
Cwarman
Roland Wiench wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Don Cameron<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 3:44 PM
> Subject: RE: Netgain Warp Dimensions
>
>
> Roland, fantasic! thanks for the detailed information.
>
> Don
>
> Hello Don,
>
> One more thing.
>
> You could make a motor mount out of a 3/8 to 1/2 aluminum plate that can
> bolt to the front of the motor with 4 Grade 8 5/16 bolts. The face of the
> motor is about 3/4 inch thick face.
>
> Bolt on 3 inch by 3 inch aluminum angle to this motor mounted and bolt down
> to the cross member where the existing engine mounts fasten down on.
>
> If the front motor mounts are ahead of the cross member, than weld on a
> support platform ahead of the cross member. This is what I had to do.
>
> You can used donut type engine mounts which are many different types are
> listed in auto parts store catalogs or poly type in speed accessory shops
> like Auto World.
>
> My EV, the El Camino Electro which is listed in the EV Album, used to be a
> hybred with a GM V-6 engine connected in series to the motor with a IN and
> OUT clutch of where the engine would disconnect when the engine load would
> pull below 15 IN.HG of vaccum.
>
> The rear of this 400 lb engine uses the same aluminum motor mount that goes
> on the motor, but it was bolted to the rear of the bell housing of the V-6
> engine. The motor had the same type of mounting. The engine mount and motor
> mounts share the same donut type mount which had to be bolt down on a steel
> angle that was welded just ahead of the cross member.
>
> The motor face mounts withstand the engine torque, so it should be strong
> enough for mounting the motor by it self.
>
> Roland
>
>
>
>
> Victoria, BC, Canada
>
> See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
> www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/<http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On
> Behalf Of Roland Wiench
> Sent: August 22, 2005 2:37 PM
> To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: Netgain Warp Dimensions
>
> Hello Don,
>
> I have the dimensions on a Warp 9 double shaft 192 volt motor has listed
> out. No blue prints, just rough sketches and notes.
>
> It is best to draw out the dimensions as you read the following statements.
>
>
> The overall length from end of output shaft to pilot shaft is 20 inches.
>
> The diameter of motor housing is 9.375 inches
>
> The overall diameter of motor is 9.875 (1/4 inch height for field bolts that
> are on the surface)
>
> The length of the motor body is 15.875 inches long.
>
> The centering ring or the rise portion around the output shaft is 0.50 inch
> high and 3.9375 inch diameter.
>
> The centering ring or the rise portion around the pilot shaft is 0.25 inch
> high and is 2.875 inch diameter.
>
> The total length of motor from the surface of the centering rings is 15.875
> + 0.50 + 0.25 = 16.625
>
> The output shaft is 1.125 inch diameter with 0.25 inch keyway that protrudes
> out 1.5 inch from the centering ring and 2 inches from the face of the
> motor.
>
> The pilot shaft is 0.75 inch diameter with 0.1875 inch keyway that protrudes
> out 1.875 from the centering ring and 2.125 inches from the face of the
> motor.
>
> The Armature and Field connections are 3/8 inch brass bolts that protrude
> 1.1875 up from the surface of the motor.
>
> The Armature connections are forward on the motor.
>
> The Field connections are rear on the motor.
>
> The normal orientation of the motor would be that one set of connections are
> on top of motor and the other sets are on the side. They are place about 90
> degrees apart. Make sure you have clearance above the motor. The motor will
> be forward from the firewall.
>
> The two top connections, Armature and Field are jumper together for a
> clockwise rotation looking at the pilot shaft of the motor.
>
> The two sides connections, Armature and Field go to you controller where DC
> positive connects to the Armature and DC negative connects to the Field.
>
> The mounting holes location on the rear of motor are tapped for four 5/8
> inch standard bolt thread and are place on a 6.375 inch circle center to
> center.
>
> The mounting holes location on the front of motor are tapped for four 5/16
> inch standard bolt thread and are place on a 5.75 inch circle center to
> center.
>
> I did not weigh the motor. The shipping weight of the motor in a double
> wall cardboard box that is fill with solid foam for packing is 184 lbs, so
> something between 176 to 178 lbs.
>
> If you used a clamp on mounting ring on this motor, it will have to be at
> least 9-7/8 inch inside diameter to go over the field bolts. I plan to make
> one from a 10 inch diameter 10 gage pipe tubing which normally reads 10
> inches OD and have it cut 5 inches wide, so it will cover over two field
> mounting bolts that are space 2-3/8 inch apart.
>
> In cutting this pipe to form two C-clamp sections, it will spring open a
> bit, so it will fit the motor.
>
> The spacing between the field bolts will allow a narrow mounting strap of
> 1-1/2 inches wide. It would be best to used two of these to go between two
> sets of field bolts and than weld the mounting straps together for a larger
> mounting area.
>
> The adapter unit that is used to bolt to a bell housing of a transmission is
> 2.74 inches thick. So when you add the length of the motor, this adapter ,
> the bell housing and transmission, this will give you a good ideal where the
> front of the motor and/or front of the pilot shaft will end up on.
>
> When installing a motor, make sure your motor is place as close as possible
> in parallel to the axis of the rear axle U joint. After mounting the motor,
> you can adjust the motor with shims under the transmission rubber rear
> mounts. Some transmission mounts come with additional spacers for
> adjustments.
>
> Even though your motor is in the parallel axis of the rear axle U joint,
> there is a offset distance between these two parallel lines. When I jack up
> my EV, my offset for a GM with a 6-foot driveline distance is 4 inches.
> When the car is down on the ground this offset is about 1 to 2 inches which
> is 1 to 1.5 percent.
>
> Roland
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Don Cameron<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> To:
> [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 9:57 AM
> Subject: Netgain Warp Dimensions
>
>
> I am unable to find on the web any dimensional data for the Warp 9" and
> 11"
> motors. Does anyone have a PDF or can fax me a copy? I am looking for
> the
> length, diameter, mounting hole locations (front and rear), centering
> ring
> dimensions, output shaft dimensions, weight.
>
> thanks
> Don
>
> Victoria, BC, Canada
>
> See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
>
> www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/<http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/<http://wwwcameronsoftware.com/ev/<http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/>>
>
>
>.
>
>
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 09:39:23 -0400
From: Cwarman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Power Steering
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Ah thanks Ryan!! i think ill try and take your suggestion and find a 97
manual steering box at the junk yard!
Cwarman
Ryan Stotts wrote:
>Cwarman wrote:
>
>
>
>>I dont see much mention of power steering pump when doing a conversion.
>>I have a 1997 Chevy S10 im tonight pulling the engine out and i left
>>that portion on for now because wasnt sure if thats something ill need
>>or not. Im under the impression that a vehicle made for powersteering
>>but is unistalled or off turns WAY harder than a truck that is made
>>without powersteering, is this true ? Any suggestions ?
>>
>>
>
>I'm not sure how stiff the steering will be with that un powered power
>gear box. It appears there is a manual gear box for that model truck.
> Looks like this:
>
>http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/fla-fr1495_w.jpg
>
>Try and get a rebuilt one from the auto parts store or get one from a
>junk yard(will be cheapest way). With a proper manual box, it will
>feel just like power steering(or very close).
>
>Or if money is no object, get one new:
>
>http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&autofilter=1&part=FLA%2DFR1495&N=4294925130+4294839070+4294860446+4294860271&autoview=sku
>I had factory power steering on my Mustang. If the pump wasn't
>leaking, it would be a hose. If not that, the rack would be leaking
>out one end or the other(the bane of hydraulics, leaks). Not to
>mention the power it was eating up (15hp?).
>
>I put a manual steering rack on it and I wouldn't have it any other
>way. Less maintenance, more power, more room in the engine bay. I
>could tell a noticeable performance improvement plus excellent "road
>feel". When I drive a power steering car now, it feels twitchy with
>no road feel in comparison.
>
>If you insist on keeping your power gear box, get your motor with a
>shaft out the front and put a pulley on it and make a mounting bracket
>for the pump.
>
>Here's an example using an alternator and AC:
>
>http://electric-echo.com/journal3.htm
>
>Another option would be to get an electric power steering pump off a
>Toyota MR2. You'll need a stout DC/DC converter to drive it though.
>It pulls some sick amps... no problem though for a gas car with an
>alternator. I wouldn't want that draining off my pack though. Ever
>leave your lights on and seen how quick that drains a battery? I
>suppose one could put a switch on it and cut power to it when going
>straight for extended periods of time though..
>
>http://www.driveev.com/jeepev/convpgs/psteer.php
>
>Simplest way would be to call up local junk yards and tell them you
>need a manual steering gear box for a '97 S10 and swap it out.. Or
>get a rebuilt one from a auto parts store.
>
>
>.
>
>
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 14:42:08 +0100
From: Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Battery calculation, NiCad vs. LeadAcid
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Disposition: inline
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Hi Ralph,
Just to be precise...
For the 100AH cells:
Constant 200 A
Peak (10 s) 500
On the PSA EVs, using the water cooled version, the limit is around
180A and the car will generally draw around 100A on a flat road.
Regards
Evan
On 8/24/05, Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Michaela,
>
> On the SAFTs, the voltage drop will be about 7 volts per 100 amps.
>
> Also, do your calculations with a 250 amp limit. SAFTs don't like
> to experience current draws more than 250 amps. This may mean that
> you need more modules for a higher voltage pack to get the power
> you want.
>
> Ralph
>
>
> Michaela Merz writes:
> >
> >
> > Hello Everybody:
> >
> > I have started to do some basic calculations on my new S-10 project. Based
> > on the experiences with my current Nissan pickup, I have some figures to
> > work with.
> >
> > Trojan T-125, 22 batteries, 130 Ah/C1
> >
> > Available energy: 17 Kw (Voltage sag not calculated)
> > Weight: 660 Kg (1455 pounds)
> > Range at 60 Mph: About 35 Miles
> >
> > Saft Nicad STM 5-100 100 AH/C3
> > Available energy: 14.4 Kw (Voltage sag not calculated)
> > Weight: 286 Kg (631 pounds)
> >
> > I don't know the C/1 value for those Safts, but I can save 800 pounds of
> > weight by losing about 3 Kw of available energy. Question is, how can I
> > set the weight loss in relation to the loss of Kws? And, NiCads don't
> > experience that kind of voltage drop as i.e. those Trojans. If I would
> > change the Trojans against Safts .. would I win or lose range?
> >
> > mm.
> >
>
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 06:44:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mark Hastings <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Where can I get a 48 to 12v dc/dc to power my Emeter/Relays?
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Content-Disposition: inline
I pulled the 12v lead acid battery off my tractor because flooded nicads and
flooded lead don't mix*.
I basically tapped 12 volts of the pack to run my emeter and my on off
switches. Since I charge each block individually this isn't much of a problem
and I unplug my emeter after the run and charge so it doesn't drain down. I
have tried online in vain to find all those 48v to 12v converters surplus but
can't find any below 100$ does anyone know where I could find one? I need one
for the tractor. My EV Motorcycle I may buy one with high output because it
needs it for the lights but the tractor just needs to run the two small relay
coils and the emeter for 2 hours a week.
Thanks,
*At least according to my flooded nicad manuals. They say that the lead acid
fumes can destroy the nicad batteries.
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 09:58:11 -0400
From: Cwarman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: query ev
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Battery Question / Pricing
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 09:16:07 -0500
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
format=flowed;
charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
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I looked at these http://www.everspring.net/product-battery.htm and they
almost sound to good to be true , I'm thinking about somthing like this for
my lawn mower project . As we are both in florida maybe we could do a group
buy and save on shipping . do you have a web site for Peacebay , they also
look good , what I need is around 72v and 150 amps for 1/2 hour , and not at
600lbs.
Steve Clunn
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 7:12 AM
Subject: Battery Question / Pricing
> Lee / All,
>
>
>
> I am located in Orlando, Fl (for location).
>
> Underneath the car is 8 inches tall, 42 inches wide and 18 inches front to
> back (there are AC lines in the middle). I do hope to pick up some space
> near the tranmission (possibly 14 inches deep, 20 inches tall, 36 inches
> wide), (tranmission is not yet here)
>
> With the Optimas, I lose 1.5 inches of ground clearance to the car
> (bringing the number down to 6 inches of ground clearance). Around the AC
> lines, I think I can fit 6 underneath. The Trojans are way too tall for
> underneath. I might be able to fit the 12 volt trojans around the
> tranmission area if that is the path. (Can the optimas be mounted on their
> side?)
>
> Peacebay sent me info on their 80AH NIMH ($69 / per pack), resulting in
> $2000 for 80AH at 48 volts. It is rated for 400 Amp max discharge (the
> same as my controller). (130 pound pack)
>
> Everspring has Cr-F-Li also at $2000 for 90 AH (under 100 pounds).
> However, they can only handle 270 Amps ( I would have to move to 200Amp
> batteries, resulting in $4000)
>
> Since the empty car is 1000 lbs, I am trying to keep weight down. I think
> it can handle the 400 pounds of the optimas.
>
> NIMH is a little over twice the lead price (for the same usable capacity),
> and 1/2 the weight. Are there other configurations that I should consider?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Peter
>
>
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2005 20:45:19 -0700
> From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Battery question / pricing
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
> Peter wrote:
>> I am working on the EV Smart conversion... looking for daily usable
>> 80-100 AH @ 48Volts...
>
> Could you give us the battery box dimensions, and an estimate of how
> much the batteries can weigh? That would make it a lot easier to provide
> ideas that could fit.
>
> Where are you located? It's hard for others to guess at what batteries
> area available and their prices without knowing your location.
> --
> "Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
> citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
> has!" -- Margaret Mead
> --
> Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
>
>
>
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 09:56:48 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Power Steering Mazda 3, MR2
From: "Christopher Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Just to add to the potential selection, Farver and I recently noticed (and
I've verified online) that the Mazda 3 also has electrohydraulic power
steering, like the Gen-2 Toyota MR2.
Perhaps this will eventually take over as the ideal source of electric
power steering pumps, as the MR2 parts get harder to find....?
--chris
Cwarman said:
> Off hand,
>
> Does anyone have one of the Toyota MR2 Electric pumps being used for
> powersteering ? Can you give the Year of the cars this was on and if
> possible a part number if you know it ?
>
> Cwarman
>
>>
>>
>
>
From: Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery calculation, NiCad vs. LeadAcid
To: [email protected]
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 07:22:00 -0700 (PDT)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Evan,
Those are the official specs. What I learned after my NiCads died a
couple of years ago is that there appears to be a 250 amp maximum limit,
which if exceeded will cause a "significantly reduced lifetime".
SAFT's spec claims 200 amps continuous and 500 amps for 10 seconds, but
gives no other rating. There is no guidance for current draws between
200 and 500 amps. This alone makes me nervous about that range...
Maybe this is why your vehicle has a 180 amp limit?
Ralph
Evan Tuer writes:
>
> Hi Ralph,
> Just to be precise...
>
> For the 100AH cells:
> Constant 200 A
> Peak (10 s) 500
>
> On the PSA EVs, using the water cooled version, the limit is around
> 180A and the car will generally draw around 100A on a flat road.
>
> Regards
> Evan
>
> On 8/24/05, Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Michaela,
> >
> > On the SAFTs, the voltage drop will be about 7 volts per 100 amps.
> >
> > Also, do your calculations with a 250 amp limit. SAFTs don't like
> > to experience current draws more than 250 amps. This may mean that
> > you need more modules for a higher voltage pack to get the power
> > you want.
> >
> > Ralph
> >
> >
> > Michaela Merz writes:
> > >
> > >
> > > Hello Everybody:
> > >
> > > I have started to do some basic calculations on my new S-10 project. Based
> > > on the experiences with my current Nissan pickup, I have some figures to
> > > work with.
> > >
> > > Trojan T-125, 22 batteries, 130 Ah/C1
> > >
> > > Available energy: 17 Kw (Voltage sag not calculated)
> > > Weight: 660 Kg (1455 pounds)
> > > Range at 60 Mph: About 35 Miles
> > >
> > > Saft Nicad STM 5-100 100 AH/C3
> > > Available energy: 14.4 Kw (Voltage sag not calculated)
> > > Weight: 286 Kg (631 pounds)
> > >
> > > I don't know the C/1 value for those Safts, but I can save 800 pounds of
> > > weight by losing about 3 Kw of available energy. Question is, how can I
> > > set the weight loss in relation to the loss of Kws? And, NiCads don't
> > > experience that kind of voltage drop as i.e. those Trojans. If I would
> > > change the Trojans against Safts .. would I win or lose range?
> > >
> > > mm.
> > >
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
